Walk-in Smokehouse in Progress

[Hill Country]

The reason I’m wanting to maximize the R value is due to the extreme heat we get here and the fact that I’m using a window unit with an electronic “hack” to keep it from freezing up in order to reach colder temperatures.

I won’t really know if the humidity will be a factor until I get it up and running. I plan on dry and wet aging beef in addition to curing and smoking. Part of the excitement for me is learning all of the new things I’m ignorant about currently.

I’m also anticipating the construction of the insulated door myself. LOL
It’s going to be a simple 2x6 construction. I put the studs on the “latch” side at a 15 degree angle so that the weather seal has a good surface area to mate to. I’ll be using two different types of door sweeps and a continuous gasket around the door.

This is another one of my learn as I build projects. It’s for fun and fellowship with a group of guys that enjoy doing things together. I appreciate everyone’s time in responding and giving much needed insight into things I had not thought of yet.

 

[indaswamp]

Hill Country,
Have you looked into the requirements for dry aging beef? The humidity needs to be around 48%- if I remember right- so that a skin does not form.

 

[Hill Country]

Indaswamp- I have done some research. It’s a bit confusing so far in that the temperature plays a part as well. Low temp and humidity but not low enough that the enzymes don’t have a chance to break down the muscle. I’m thinking it’ll be another trial and error ordeal. Yikes!

 

[bob-whie]

Indaswamp- I have done some research. It’s a bit confusing so far in that the temperature plays a part as well. Low temp and humidity but not low enough that the enzymes don’t have a chance to break down the muscle. I’m thinking it’ll be another trial and error ordeal. Yikes!

I have aged rib eye and loin primals in a refrigerator with success. One thing I learned is the necessity of fat cover, any exposed meat will turn funky and create a lot of loss.
Covered mine with about a quarter inch of lard (because that's what was at hand and it cracks off easily when cold) and ran an ozone generator piped into the refrigerator 4 times a day for an hour to control bacterial growth. Ultra-violet lights are another option.
Would love to do a whole carcass or side, but it would be an agonizing endeavor because of potential monetary loss and hit to the ego.
As my first primal was aging I realized I had no objective criteria of what success entailed, had no idea what a dry aged steak tasted like. Poor folks never ate that high on the hog.

If we all get together here we certainly will come up with a sound process. Sounds like fun - with you taking the risk.

One old timer dry age guy was asked how he gauged a carcass was properly aged, he replied: "depends on how much hair [bacterial growth] is on it".

 

[daveomak]

Dry aging meat, you want the humidity around 80% so you don't create case hardening..

 

[indaswamp]

Thanks Dave for the correction. I must be thinking of dry curing.

 

[daveomak]

Hey... There are so many do's, don't's, if this, then that, only if's, but not if that, when this, not if's..... I have to read every recipe before I do any meat curing... I can't remember all the "SPECIAL" circumstances involved in this stuff...

 

[Hill Country]

Good morning! Spent considerable time researching ideal RH for dry aging beef and apparently there is no concensus. It ranges anywhere from 50 to 85 percent. Quite a spread. Temperature was more consistent being in the 34-38 degree range. Air flow is also an important consideration. Sooooooo....... I contacted Delmonico’s, Peter Luger, and Keen’s steakhouses. Only Delmonico’s had a listed email for info. I registered an account with Peter Luger in hopes of getting a confirmation email and left a message with Keen’s. I figured why not ask the folks that have been doing this since the 1800’s. I won’t be surprised if I don’t get any replies. I’m thinking each process might be a closely guarded secret. Time will tell.

Have a blessed day! Tommy

 

[daveomak]

The difference between the 50-85% humidity are the finished products...
If you are reducing the weight of the meat, 35% and want to thinly slice it and have a bold flavor, 80% is ideal.. If you are making Biltong, it is a thin piece of meat to begin with and case hardening is not a problem....
You need to fully understand the finished product and the initial chunk of meat to determine the process....

 

[daveomak]

Even posted this on another members thread.. He owns and sells artisinal meats...

Apr 13, 2015 #13

evan m brady Newbie
Wappingers Falls, NY
Just wanted to chime in... I NEVER go below 80% relative humidity when making salumi. Just so you know, when you do go below that, and into the 70's, you really run the risk of case hardening your salami, or severe hardening on the outside of you muscle salumi like Culatello or Coppa.

You want SLOW diffusion of moisture from the center out, and that is why I keep my chamber at 55-60F with 80-85% relative humidity. I use the Auber controller, and has made me some amazing products by keeping the humidity tight.

These are some of my products I made, and as you can see there is no hardening on the outside because I kept the humidity a little above or at 80% at all times...

IF you follow this you will always have great product!

• 

Finocchiona in a Hog Bung with Tuscan Fennel Pollen and Calabrian Fennel Seeds.

• 

Tamworth breed Coppardi (its a coppa with the fat cap still on - so Coppa and Lardo = Coppardo)

 

[Hill Country]

Thanks for the info daveomak. From what I’ve seen each type of product has its ideal conditions. I’m afraid if you aged beef at 80% RH and 55-60 degrees farenheit you’d have issues. Plus length of time plays a part as well. Depending on the flavor profile you are wanting to achieve.

Keep the knowledge flowing! I’m learning more every day.

 

[r2 builders]

Nice build!
A couple of thoughts.
I use durock a lot in commercial applications as backing for tile.
We typically attach directly to metal studs at 16" on center with no issues.
You will need to do something to seal the seams.
I was thinking about something and others will have input.
What if you installed the durock with the seams horizontal seal the seams, then installed foil faced rigid insulation with the seams vertical. That would help with durock seams and give you an extra layer of insulation.
That one is just a thought and if that would work for your build.
Good luck with your project!

r2

 

[Hill Country]

r2builders- thanks for the input! I was considering a cement type product such as Hardie and hadn’t thought about Durokc. I’ve used it as you mentioned on shower enclosures and such. All of the insulation board will go in between the studs first so the Durock would be the exposed interior. I like your idea of the seams running perpendicular to each other. Right now I’m having difficulty deciding between wood or a cement fiber board product. Or both. Haha

 

[indaswamp]

IMO, hardiboard is more rigid than durock. Depends on if you want it to flex or not on which to use.

 

[chopsaw]

Durock spec is for 16" on center . You don't need to worry about the seams unless you want to .

 

[Hill Country]

Good point. The studs are on 16” centers but I was thinking about sealing the seams completely for reduced air infiltration for the refrigeration aspect. I probably just need to do the best I can and not over think it. It’s just for home use anyways. Plus all the “acquaintances” I have that will most likely decide they want to be buddies or friends all of a sudden. LOL

 

[indaswamp]

Food grade silicone on the stud where the seams meet.....screw it down and it ought to seal it. If you do, I would drill 1/2" breather holes in the top plate so the wall will breathe being that you have already sealed the outside with moisture barrier.

 

[indaswamp]

You could also turn your studs where the seams meet so you have a wide face to seal. stack (2) studs with 1/2 plywood spacers and it will equal 3 1/2" thick. the spacers only need to be ~1ft. long...put 3 of them on each.

 

[Hill Country]

Excellent idea on the breather holes! I hadn’t thought of that. I suppose I should put some type of mesh
or screen over the 1/2” holes to keep pests out.

 

[indaswamp]

yep. you can get some 1/8" Stainless mesh. I'd put 2 holes per 16" gap....to allow air in/out.