Masterbuilt 40 Electric Smoker won't turn on

[boehmemr]

Greeting fellow smokers,

My three year old smoker stopped working. I have a Masterbuilt Electric Signature Series Smoker Model number MB20075615. I have searched on the Masterbuilt site and cannot find that model number in their list. I have tried troubleshooting by using different outlets and different extension cords. Have also used those outlets and extension cords to power other items. I feel that it is the smoker. Researching the cause online shows that it is common issue...replace the heater element or the control unit. Without having the user manual I am not sure what is the correct part number. Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone know if the heater elements for all 40' are the same regardless of model number? Thank you in advance for everyone's assistance. Take care and smoke on!

 

[JC in GB]

Greeting fellow smokers,

My three year old smoker stopped working. I have a Masterbuilt Electric Signature Series Smoker Model number MB20075615. I have searched on the Masterbuilt site and cannot find that model number in their list. I have tried troubleshooting by using different outlets and different extension cords. Have also used those outlets and extension cords to power other items. I feel that it is the smoker. Researching the cause online shows that it is common issue...replace the heater element or the control unit. Without having the user manual I am not sure what is the correct part number. Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone know if the heater elements for all 40' are the same regardless of model number? Thank you in advance for everyone's assistance. Take care and smoke on!

That number looks more like a date code than a part number.

What does the nameplate on the smoker say for rated current?

if it is around 11 amps, you have a 1200 watt burner

if it is closer to 7 amps, it is an 800 watt unit

I am not sure if MES uses any other burners....

JC

 

[boehmemr]

Thank you for your comment. That number is not a part number, it is model number for the smoker.

The nameplate says the amps is 10A and the Watts is 1200W. I think I will take a chance and purchase the 1200W and see if that fixes the problem.

I would love to have the user manual if someone has it and would share it with me.

 

[mtodriscoll]

Here you go:

Masterbuilt 20075615 Parts | BBQs and Gas Grills

Buy Genuine BBQ and Gas Grill Parts for Masterbuilt 20075615. It's Easy to Repair your BBQ and Gas Grill. 36 Parts for this Model. ✓ Parts Lists, Photos, Diagrams and Owners manuals.

www.appliancefactoryparts.com

- When you search, take of the leading MB and just search on 20075615.

The Element Kit ($14.99) is the first part in the list (P/N 9907120027), 1200 watt burner.

My unit is about the same age and was tripping the GFCI outlet as soon as the burner switched on. I replaced the burner with a new element and the problem resolved itself. Good luck!

 

[chopsaw]

I just ordered an 800 watt for my gen 1 30 from them .

 

[Bearcarver]

Here you go:

Masterbuilt 20075615 Parts | BBQs and Gas Grills

Buy Genuine BBQ and Gas Grill Parts for Masterbuilt 20075615. It's Easy to Repair your BBQ and Gas Grill. 36 Parts for this Model. ✓ Parts Lists, Photos, Diagrams and Owners manuals.

www.appliancefactoryparts.com

- When you search, take of the leading MB and just search on 20075615.

The Element Kit ($14.99) is the first part in the list (P/N 9907120027), 1200 watt burner.

My unit is about the same age and was tripping the GFCI outlet as soon as the burner switched on. I replaced the burner with a new element and the problem resolved itself. Good luck!

I don't know if this will help, but the one shown in the Parts Manual above (Posted by "Matt") is a Generation #2 MES.

Bear

 

[Central PA Cowboy]

Did you plug it in?

 

[Danabw]

Search: 5 results found for "20075615"

Masterbuilt makes innovative digital charcoal grills, griddles, electric smokers, propane smokers, combination grill & smokers, fryers and more. For the backyard griller or on-the-go meat smoker, master the art of cooking with Masterbuilt.

www.masterbuilt.com

Masterbuilt parts page for the model number from above - model 20075615.

Same parts are less expensive than on the 3rd party site. Element kit is $9.99 vs. $15.99.

I just got parts for my MES 30 from Masterbuilt and it went very well.

 

[Steve H]

Are the wire(s) burned off of the element? Are you getting power to the element?

 

[mtodriscoll]

Are the wire(s) burned off of the element? Are you getting power to the element?

On my unit, the wires were not burnt at all, but it had to have been shorting out somewhere. Replacing the heating element fixed the problem. I suspect the problem was where the post connected the element, rather than where the wires connected the post.

 

[tallbm]

Greeting fellow smokers,

My three year old smoker stopped working. I have a Masterbuilt Electric Signature Series Smoker Model number MB20075615. I have searched on the Masterbuilt site and cannot find that model number in their list. I have tried troubleshooting by using different outlets and different extension cords. Have also used those outlets and extension cords to power other items. I feel that it is the smoker. Researching the cause online shows that it is common issue...replace the heater element or the control unit. Without having the user manual I am not sure what is the correct part number. Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone know if the heater elements for all 40' are the same regardless of model number? Thank you in advance for everyone's assistance. Take care and smoke on!

Hi there and welcome!

Before u go and buy those parts you may want to check all the connectors on the end of the wires. The connectors corroding away is like the most common failure point in the MES and is an easy fix with hi temp stainless steel spade connectors.

The places to check are:
-Heating element connectors (inspect them and give them a simple little tug, nothing forecful, and they may break off indicating they were corroding away).

-Safety Rollout Limit Switch connectors. If you have a 2nd panel about midway up on the back of the MES (usually on the right hand side) that is the panel to get to the safety switch. Inspect the connectors there but dont tug on them as the switch can be a little delicate.
If you do NOT have a panel then u have to drill out the rivets on the back of the smoker and pull the back up/off to get the switch housing and then the switch. If you have to do this it is wise to cut out a panel so u dont have to pull the back off in the future. The switches are a little delicate and I've had to replace at least 4 of them due to over handling them which leads to them burning out. #12 self taping hex head screws(3/4 inch) will fasten the back on again to the MES. Any aluminum or plain sheet metal can cover the cut out for the switch area if u want to make a panel. I drilled some pilot holes and again fastened with #12 self taping sheet metal screws to make my panel.

-Bottom circuit board connectors. These are very unlikely to corrode and fail BUT it has happened and a guy just posted about it this past week and his board and connectors were both corroded away for some reason


If you check all of those connectors chances are you find your issue. Plus you are doing yourself a major favor in understanding how simple it is to maintain your MES should anything go wrong in the future... and at some point something will :)

 

[Steve H]

Hi there and welcome!

Before u go and buy those parts you may want to check all the connectors on the end of the wires. The connectors corroding away is like the most common failure point in the MES and is an easy fix with hi temp stainless steel spade connectors.

The places to check are:
-Heating element connectors (inspect them and give them a simple little tug, nothing forecful, and they may break off indicating they were corroding away).

-Safety Rollout Limit Switch connectors. If you have a 2nd panel about midway up on the back of the MES (usually on the right hand side) that is the panel to get to the safety switch. Inspect the connectors there but dont tug on them as the switch can be a little delicate.
If you do NOT have a panel then u have to drill out the rivets on the back of the smoker and pull the back up/off to get the switch housing and then the switch. If you have to do this it is wise to cut out a panel so u dont have to pull the back off in the future. The switches are a little delicate and I've had to replace at least 4 of them due to over handling them which leads to them burning out. #12 self taping hex head screws(3/4 inch) will fasten the back on again to the MES. Any aluminum or plain sheet metal can cover the cut out for the switch area if u want to make a panel. I drilled some pilot holes and again fastened with #12 self taping sheet metal screws to make my panel.

-Bottom circuit board connectors. These are very unlikely to corrode and fail BUT it has happened and a guy just posted about it this past week and his board and connectors were both corroded away for some reason


If you check all of those connectors chances are you find your issue. Plus you are doing yourself a major favor in understanding how simple it is to maintain your MES should anything go wrong in the future... and at some point something will.

If you have the wiring diagram. You should be able to test the safety switch with a meter without ripping things apart.

 

[tallbm]

If you have the wiring diagram. You should be able to test the safety switch with a meter without ripping things apart.

I don't have a diagram and different models and versions of the MES (30 & 40) have slightly different configurations when it comes to the wiring leaving the circuit board in the bottom and going to the heating element or the safety switch. My MES40 (gen1) has 2 different holes where the wiring leaves the circuit board area. I believed a guy I helped locally had an MES30 where the wiring left the circuit board area through a single hole. I worked an MES40 gen 2 and I think it also had 2 holes but they weren't in the same spot as my gen 1. There doesn't seem to be any consistency if I'm remembering everything correctly.
The easiest MES units to diagram out are the ones that use the blue vs read wire coloring from the circuit board and then they again change color to block from the safety switch to the heating element.... if the wiring guy stick to the color pattern that is haha.

If there is an access panel to the safety switch then its easier to trace wires with a continuity check using a multimeter.
In that case you just unhook all wire ends from heating element and the circuit board.
You can then check the ends from the circuit board to the safety switch and then the safety switch to the heating element wire end and mark the wires. The other ends not tested should be from circuit board end straight to heating element end and u can mark those as well.

I could be missing a way to diagram it but that is what I've seen so far :)

 

[Steve H]

I don't own a MES. So I was spit balling. The way you describe sounds like the better approach then.

 

[tallbm]

I don't own a MES. So I was spit balling. The way you describe sounds like the better approach then.

We need all the brainstorming on this stuff we can muster brother hahaha!

 

[dr k]

We need all the brainstorming on this stuff we can muster brother hahaha!

Then there's the 440/430 new series with the independent 150 watt chip/chunk element with it's own sensor and element lugs that is uncharted territory on wireing. I'm not sure what MB is doing not getting it together, getting it down and getting it right the first time so you don't have to fix brand new equipment outta the box. Loads and loads of pissed off FB customers that get a POS in the box and finally MB says return it to the brick and mortar business you got it at but they aren't accepting returns during C-19.!? Now your stuck till MB decides to respond.