If you could only have one knife, what would it be?

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I have a 10" Henckle and a 10 Wuestoff Chefs knife; an 8" Wuestoff and Forschner Fibrox; 8" Wuestoff Santoku; 7" Wuestoff and 6" flexible boning knives and a 3" wuestoff and Fibrox knives in my kitchen. My knives of ckoice are the Forschner Fibrox knives. The are light, sharp and slip-proof. They stay sharp and with only a couple of hits with a steel they regain their edge.
 
My choice would be my Wusthoff Classic 10" extra wide chef's knife. I love the weight and feel of it and I can trim a beef tenderloin or peel an apple with it.
 
Most important thing is definately find a knife that feels good in your hand. A great blade does no good if it sits in the drawer, unused, because you can't stand the feel of the handle.

I like to go to some place like bed, bath, & beyond or Kitchen Kaboodle and spend an hour or so checking out how all the differant knives feel. Then once you make up your mind do comparison shopping for price :)
 
I do know that there are really good knives out there, but I thought the best knifes were the old time forged steel used and abused knives you find at garage sales and good will stores for .25cents the really good ones usually can be had for $1.00.

I know it may not make sense, but I pick these kind of knives up and have them sharpend and end up with more than I need, I keep the ones I really like and trade off the others.
 
Has anyone tried those ceramic blades. I have one and it's very sharp but as usual. I didn't pay attention to the warning label like the one that says don't use this knife for deboning some venison for jerky. I put a nick in it base of the blade. So no real harm but they are a good knife and I hear that there harder than regular knifes. They say that they are harder then steel but just under diamond.
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A good 6" boning knife; have several by Chicago Cutlery, SaniSafe, Dexter, (and a couple old Dexter Carbon Steel knives.. pitted and rusty but take a great edge!), etc., and a 12" Forschner Victorinox cimeter; most you can see in my pic below.
 
for me, a quality chefs knife 8"+. My chefs knife is a 9" Wusthof Culinair, and I love it. Not a cheap knife, I think over $125 when I bought it a few years ago. I agree with others shop around, see how a knife feels in your hands, and go for it. Not an item to skimp $$$ wise on imho.
 
Any knife is going to be either crap or superior. The reason why is because of how the edge is ground and how much if any relief immediately behind the edge face is ground in. Typically you can take any knife regardless of brand or manufacturer, turn a hollow grind 1/8 of an inch from the edge face and then sharpen that last 1/32 of the blade AFTER the hollow grind and you will have a cutting edge that regardless of the make, brand, model or manufacturer of the knife, is going to give you a superior cut. At what specific angle you sharpen the last 1/32 of the edge face at is going to determine exactly how precisely the knife cuts. If it's intended to cut medium to large cuts of meat, you'll want a 19-22 degree per side leading 1/32 edge face for strength and durability, the hollow grind directly behind the edge face will provide the strength and the angle will ensure lasting performance with a minimal touch up required with a quality butcher's steel. For smaller, softer pieces of meats, 15-19 degree per side leading edge will give you that razor sharp sense that will pop hairs off your arm like nobody's business. There are kits available that will allow you to do this with the exception of produce a hollow grind, which of all the edge faces, is the most superior due to the strength in the design. I use a combination of a homemade slow grinder wheel to produce the hollow grind, Gatco Sharpening Kit to keep and maintain the angles, and Spyderco Ceramic hones 4000 and 10k grit for producing superior quality edges that endure and last through everything I put them through. I can put the same type of edge on the $1.50 knife that I can put on the $250 knife and both will be top performers in anyone's book.

It's not the knife, but how it's sharpened and to what total leading edge face angel side to side that it's sharpened to. Any leading edge face that's less than 50 degrees total is going to be a sharp edge.
 
Absolutely, sharpening and geometry are essential to performance. The type of steel is also an integral part since some softer steels will not hold the edge as long as others.

Navyjeremy, that was my first Japanese knife. In the 240mm size. Still use it almost every day.
 
This is a great post and everyone can appreciate the input these members have made towards sharing info on this thread. Good job folks!

I've tried ceramic blades Mark, and for the reason you stated- the nick- and subsequent weakening of the blade, I stay away from them. That said, I will add that it is more from being a traditionalist than anything else. ceramic blades just don't have the tradition, history nor legend that steel does.

The "best" blade is a combination of many ingredients that went into making the steel, and finally the use you are going to put it to. There is no "right" answer, only preference.
 
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