EDLUND #2 can opener…..

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Timber II

Meat Mopper
Original poster
SMF Premier Member
Oct 15, 2023
260
311
Swamp east Missouri
Wife’s grandparents owned the A&W down here in the 60’s through the 90’s. We helped clean out grandparents attic and have a few treasures. One is the can opener - how do I refurbish it? Thinking a wire wheel on an angle grinder? Then a shot of paint? But I’d like it to look original which would be silver.
Thanks in advance
 
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Hard to say without pics, but is it rusted or just beat up? Depending on the material you have options, but I would always start with the least abrasive. Last job I did a lot of sand and plastic media blasting. Baking soda blaster works good to.
 
I just looked it up . Seems like these are still in service . You can buy a parts kit for them too .

Good advice above , start easy . Decide what's rust and wants just gunk . Soak it in some Bar keepers friend . Might take a couple times , but it took a while to get where it's at , might take a while to clean it up .

That #2 sells for $135.00 .
I wouldn't paint that . The ones I saw weren't painted .
If I had a place to set one up , I'd get one .
 
Thanks as always boys - little gunk and a little rust but overall in fair shape. Hopefully I can get the pic thing figured out soon
 
When I get the old Revere ware pans from Goodwill , I start with a good soap and water wash . Then the Bar keepers friend . I have some brillo pads I'll use lightly . Takes several tries .

Baking soda blaster works good to.
Yup . They used baking soda to clean rough masonry on some of the buildings I remodeled downtown .

Put the frame in a plastic tub . Sprinkle it with baking soda , then use a spray bottle to spray white vinegar on it . That will get rid of the gunk , then figure out the rust .
Keep us posted .
 
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Looking forward to seeing it also!
What did you get for a phone? Maybe these guys can help with that too.

Ryan
 
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image.jpg
 
I don't think I'd use a wire wheel or angle grinder. Think they would do some damage to the metal (scratches, wear off lettering, etc.).
Maybe a chemical rust remover.
 
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two straight up options. leave as is, it has history and a story. or have it sand blasted and powder coated and use. I would opt for the first.
 
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That's not bad at all . I wouldn't be worried about using some steel wool on the base . No wire wheels . Causes more harm than good . The body is in good shape . See what it takes to get the gear and any rubber parts out and soak like suggested above . Tooth brush on some baking soda and vinegar .
I would leave the knob untouched . I never redo the handles on my family hand down cast iron .
 
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Thanks boys - I did the baking soda and vinegar then scrubbed w dawn and set to dry till tomorrow- I gotta do farm chores the rest of the day
 
I knew exactly the tool you mentioned. Used one for years.
Thousands and thousands of these still in use around the world.
Only downside is they need to be screwed down to a work surface to use properly. Even just the base gets in the way unless you have a large work surface.
Beat advice given was to clean lightly. They are tin plated so often the surface rust will clean but need a treatment to prevent more. The cracks in the base plate shows the largest intrusion area. Keep it oiled to prevent air.
I just looked it up . Seems like these are still in service . You can buy a parts kit for them too .

Good advice above , start easy . Decide what's rust and wants just gunk . Soak it in some Bar keepers friend . Might take a couple times , but it took a while to get where it's at , might take a while to clean it up .

That #2 sells for $135.00 .
I wouldn't paint that . The ones I saw weren't painted .
If I had a place to set one up , I'd get one .
I knew they are still in business.
Almost every school kitchen has one on a bench. They can zip open a can in record time.
 
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Drill a small hole at the end of that cracked base before you lose it, then have it welded up.
 
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