Questions for RecTeq owners: MAK UPDATE!

[02ebz06]

Amazes me that they built it so you have to remove rivets to replace the motor or auger.
Pretty much designed as a throw-away device.

100% agree with chopsaw , take a large drill bit and just drill enough until the head of the rivet spins off.
Then pop the remaining part of the rivet out of the hole if it didn't fall out.
Then the screws to put back together.

 

[schlotz]

It really surprised me when I spent the time trying to see how to get at the motor auger connection. This is a very high end $$$ smoker. While it's been a tank and great performer it was disturbing to discover a design at this level that does not take into account the necessity of access if/when an auger freezes up. Granted it was my fault that it got this way but design should always take into account these issues.

 

[Winterrider]

Just out of curiosity, what is MAK suggesting?

 

[schlotz]

So far we've followed their procedure of a long screw driver into the exit end and pounding it in with a hammer and/or side of a sledge. Not a lot of room to swing either. The attempt is to turn it and loosen up the cemented pellet sawdust. Also removing the securing bracket from the motor so its a tiny bit easier to get a hold of and possibly turn while pulling. I buried the 7 inch driver and was able to turn it, but still no auger movement. It appears the auger is cemented throughout it's length. I'm estimating there is at least another 5-7 inches to address and that is basically impossible because of the limited space between the exit end and the side of the smoker chamber. Just not enough room to get something that long into the exit end.

 

[zwiller]

I found a NIB Smokefire on FB Marketplace pretty cheap and did not expect to be impressed but I was. Very happy with mine. Have no desire to upgrade.

I bet you get the MAK fixed and working as good as new. Sure, might some curse words along the way but 'tis life. Grab some cheap socket extensions to give you the depth you need in that tight area. Keep adding them until you reach. I'd probably try some pulses with my air hammer to vibrate and shake it loose. Right angle drill attachment or flexible shart could also work.

 

[chopsaw]

Just not enough room to get something that long into the exit end.

We all make it sound easy . Lol . What if you get some 3/8 or 5/16 threaded rod and some couplings . Get whatever length will fit the room you have . Drive a section in , add a coupling and the next section of threaded rod . Maybe ? Continue adding until you get to the other end ?

 

[chopsaw]

take a large drill bit and just drill enough until the head of the rivet spins off.

I'm saying use the screw as the drill bit . That way no chance of making the hole to big if you just drill the head , then that same screw is used to fasten the parts back on .

 

[02ebz06]

I'm saying use the screw as the drill bit . That way no chance of making the hole to big if you just drill the head , then that same screw is used to fasten the parts back on .

Ah, gotcha...

 

[sandyut]

drilling out and replacing the rivets shouldn’t be very difficult. Installing rivets is a snap. Just slow and steady with a sharp drill bit to remove and buy a hand rivet gun from HD with a box of rivets - all that is cheap. I bought one years ago for a small job and randomly need it. Probably a better option than a burn out with a torch - IMO.

 

[DougE]

Just had an odd thought (this often happens). Is there a way to take a pressure washer to it and blow all that crap out of the auger tube? If you can get most of it loose, the auger motor may free up and do the rest.

 

[02ebz06]

Just had an odd thought (this often happens). Is there a way to take a pressure washer to it and blow all that crap out of the auger tube? If you can get most of it loose, the auger motor may free up and do the rest.

Good though, which brings up another, use an air compressor.

 

[DougE]

Good though, which brings up another, use an air compressor.

If it is hardened like concrete, getting it wet again with some pressure behind it may break it back up into particles was my thought.

I don't think the pressure a standard air compressor puts out would have enough force to loosen it any.

 

[02ebz06]

I suppose it would depend on the air compressor and nozzle.
I can get 120 or more psi. Don't know if that would be enough, but was just a thought...

 

[DougE]

Don't remember off hand what my pressure washer is rated at but it is over 3000 psi.

 

[DougE]

Red or yellow tip would be the ticket

I'd even consider taking a hole saw to the cook chamber for access to the burn pot end and the hopper for access to the other end to get the wand where it will do some good. Weld a patch plate over the holes when done.

 

[02ebz06]

I know they are pretty high. Had one several years ago, and you had to make sure you had the right tip or you could remove the paint from your car. haha

 

[DougE]

I know they are pretty high. Had one several years ago, and you had to make sure you had the right tip or you could remove the paint from your car. haha

I got the wife an electric 1700 psi one to keep her from damaging anything with it lol.

 

[Nefarious]

It could be that simple water poured in will breakup the pellets and let the auger break it up.

 

[schlotz]

Water might be an option although there isn't enough room for a psi wand. Been doing some research in regards to using a bottle jack, assuming I can find one short enough to fit the space between the auger tube and the far wall. Thinking is: get a dowel rod with a diameter that will fit inside the auger tube, cut it to accommodate the remaining space between the tube and the jack then crank. If need be repeat by cutting an additional piece of rod and continue pushing the auger back out with the jack. Two issues or concerns: the strength of the wall the jack will be pushing against. Next, the ability to remove the jack after turning the relief valve since its hydraulic you need to help the ram compress back in. Going to discuss this with MAK over the phone once they get in. They're in Oregon so 3 hour diff.

 

[schlotz]

We all make it sound easy . Lol . What if you get some 3/8 or 5/16 threaded rod and some couplings . Get whatever length will fit the room you have . Drive a section in , add a coupling and the next section of threaded rod . Maybe ? Continue adding until you get to the other end ?

Was thinking about that idea when I read your idea Rich. Might be worth a try. Oh, and yes I figured you meant using the drill point screw on the rivet head. Appreciate the help and suggestions!