Seems like they'd just make a new auger assembly available to get you going again.No, I haven't given up on the MAK yet. Still holding out they will come up with a way to free up that auger. We'll see this coming week.
Seems like they'd just make a new auger assembly available to get you going again.No, I haven't given up on the MAK yet. Still holding out they will come up with a way to free up that auger. We'll see this coming week.
Wish it was that simple Doug. The motor auger assembly is frozen tight with in the smoker. Pellets got wet, turned back into sawdust then hardened like cement trapping the auger in place. Access to the auger is extremely limited to only a few inches where the pellets drop in and then at the other end where they drop into the firepot there is about 12" from the end of the auger tube to the far wall. No access in between those two points.Seems like they'd just make a new auger assembly available to get you going again.
I mean the whole shebang ........ hopper, motor, auger tube .... the whole assembly so you can just drop your controller into it.Wish it was that simple Doug. The motor auger assembly is frozen tight with in the smoker. Pellets got wet, turned back into sawdust then hardened like cement trapping the auger in place. Access to the auger is extremely limited to only a few inches where the pellets drop in and then at the other end where they drop into the firepot there is about 12" from the end of the auger tube to the far wall. No access in between those two points.
oxy/acetylene torch with a bigass rosebud if that don't work.Weed burner torch, get it toasting. It'll move. . .
More or less create your own burn back.A last gasp option would be to get a torch and set dust on fire in the auger.
No access to the shaft between the motor and auger. Only access is a few inches where the pellets engage with the auger. Everything is riveted so no screws to disassemble. Whole unit is that way except for the legs and warming box on the other end. You can see the other end with the motor from the access panel where the circuit board is. I could put a torch to this section of the auger but really doubt it will do much good. There is at least 10" more of auger you can't see but I suspect is also solidified in pellet cement. BTW, you have to pull on the motor itself to slide the whole assembly out.Not sure how you it is configured and you have access, but have you tried accessing the shaft between the motor and the auger and turn it with a pliers?
A last gasp option would be to get a torch and set dust on fire in the auger.
That is exactly what I would do as a last resort. They assembled it and it can be reassembled same as they did it.Really don't see drilling out more than 25 rivets is an option, not to mention the re-attachment and aligning issue that would have to follow.
If you can get at both sides you can bolt it back together, but I'm guessing it is riveted because you can't. so just put it back together like they did.Ooo boy a riveting party. Guess I could learn, but sure not anxious to.
Different thing , but I had a free choice feeder that had pellet deer chow in it . Long story short , the pellets in the bottom got wet , broke down and then dried . Like you say ,, concrete . It's unbelievable how hard that stuff was .Pellets got wet, turned back into sawdust then hardened like cement trapping the auger in place
Guess with larger rivets too.If you can get at both sides you can bolt it back together, but I'm guessing it is riveted because you can't. so just put it back together like they did.
If you were closer I'd say bring it over and it'd get fixed one way or another, if possible, free other than your travel time and stuffGuess with larger rivets too.
If you get the 1/2" wafer head tek screws , you just drill the head of the rivet , not the whole thing . Then push the body of the rivet out of the hole . Use the screw to re- install .Guess with larger rivets too.
Right . Most of those rivets are 1/8" . So if you use the screw to just drill the head off , push the body out with something , the hole is the correct size for the screws . If you drill all the way though at first the hole will be to big .Yep, if taken apart, put back together with self tapers