Saving Pepper Seeds to Plant Next Spring

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rabbithutch

Master of the Pit
Original poster
OTBS Member
I bought a duke's mixture of jalapeno and Banana and Cayenne Pepper Plants early last summer and planted them in 22" terra cotta pots. I got good yield up until the heat and drought hit then production fell off. When the nights turned a bit cooler, they started producing again. This leads me to believe that I should have early Spring plants and early Fall plants next year.

I thought I'd save the seeds from some of these late peppers and put them between sheets of paper towel and put them in the garage reefer to dry. But, i don't know if they will dry enough. Do you collect and dry your seed for next years plantings? If so, how?
 
Thanks, Martin !

I just cleaned the plants of ripe peppers because we had our first hard freeze last night. I can open up the plant-ripened ones and pull the seeds out.

Do you just let them set on the paper plates on the counter to dry in whatever humidity you have?

Thanks again.
 
DiggingDogFarm what do you mean by "refrigerate".
Do you put it in the fridge or the freezer?
Does it not affect the growth the next season??

I refrigerate mine, the cooler temperatures help prolong seed viability.

"Temperature also plays an important role in life of seed. Insects and moulds increase as temperature increases. The higher the moisture content of the seeds the more they are adversely affected by temperature. Decreasing temperature and seed moisture is an effective means of maintaining seed quality in storage. The following thumb rules by Harrington are useful measures for assessing the effect of moisture and temperature on seed storage. These rules are as follows.

1. For every decrease of 1% seed moisture content the life of the seed doubles. This rule is applicable between moisture content of 5-14%.
2. For every decrease of 5oC in storage temperature the life of the seed doubles. This rules applies between 0oC to 50oC.
3. Good seed storage is achieved when the % of relative humidity in storage environment and the storage temperature in degrees Fahrenheit add upto one hundred but the contribution from temperature should not exceed 50 oF."


Source: Harrington

~Martin
 
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RH, evening.... When trying to germinate the seeds next spring, some peppers can take up to 60 days to germ....  I have found, using a coffee filter and folding it into quarters, putting seeds in it and closing with a paper clip, wetting the filter, putting in a large plastic bag (1 gallon zip) and putting in a warm place will increase the germination speed.... inflate the bag as best you can.....  I open the bag every few days to replace the air.....  I set my seed bag on top of a fluorescent light fixture and that works for me... as soon as you see the seeds start to sprout, remove and set them in sterile moist potting soil using tweezers, do not damage the sprouts.... no fertilizer.... I place mine on a heating mat at 90 deg F....  good ventilation is important to stop "damping off" which is a rotting of the tender stem or plant or something like that..... 8-12 hours of light is important also....  I have found peppers are a PITA to germ.... but I don't have a thumb that remotely resembles green.... 
 
Howdy, Dave and Martin!

I think you two have convinced me that it will be better to just buy pepper plants next Spring. I had really good luck with the plants I bought this year. I lost one plant out of 16-18 that I bought.

I also want to mix it up some next year. This year I did banana, jalapeños, and cayennes. I had 4 or 5 plants of each, but we really haven't eaten that many of them. Next year I'd like to do some that the wife can pick to cut up in her veggies. Do you have any suggestions for varieties? She remembers some her dad grew when she was a kid that were miniatures, from the way she describes them. I' also like to grow some that will give me larger peppers like bells that I can char and put up. I don't have any idea what varieties to get. This year it was just a whim to see if I could get them to grow in 22" flower pots. I put 4 plants in each pot and they all did well except one jalapeño that I think the garden hose was dragged across.

Again, thanks for the suggestions. I might dry a few seeds just to find out if I can make them germinate.
 
I just make sure they dry on a paper plate. I guess I go old school and put them in an envelope with the type of seeds written on it. Cross fingers they grow!
 
Buy some seeds as a backup.

You should be able to save your seeds as well.  But... If your plants are a hybrid, you won't get the same fruit as the previous year.  Doesn't mean you won't get fruit, and even good fruit tho.  Just not the same as the last year from hybrids.

Not an expert by far.  Going on my third year with snow pea seeds from my own plants and all is great so far. Dang peas were $3.99 per LB at the store the other day. I will let others buy them at that price.

A great experiment you might fully enjoy!

Good luck and good smoking.
 
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I always use seeds from previous yrs, 1 - 3. just make sure they are good and dry and store in used pill bottles and keep in the bottom frig compartment until Jan-Feb. I always start my Jalapeno early love em, I eat a pint jar ea week or so. Mainly the TAM's i grow ea yr. These are Texas A&M mild type Jalapeno

al
 
[h2]Here,s one doc I had[/h2]
al
[h2] [/h2][h2]A Quick Seed-Saving Guide for Beginners[/h2]
Although saving seeds is easy, not all our saved the same way. Here's a quick seed-saving guide for beginners.

Below is a general rundown of how to gather and treat the most-common garden seeds. (If you haven't read our primer on seeds, you may wish to review the article, "Start Saving Those Vegetable Seeds" first.)
[h1]Tomatoes and Cucumbers[/h1]
Because tomatoes and cucumbers have seeds that are coated with a gel, the first step is to remove it by fermentation. The process smells bad, however, so don't do it in an enclosed room in the house. Follow these steps:

1.Squeeze or spoon the seed mass into a waterproof container (glass, jar, plastic, or deli container).

2.Add enough water to equal the volume of the seed mass, and put the container in a warm spot out of direct sunlight.

3.Stir the contents at least once a day.

4.In a couple of days, the viable seeds will sink to the bottom and bad seeds and debris and white mold will float to the surface.

5.Wait five days for all the good seeds to drop, and then rinse away the gunk at the top.

6.Wash the seeds in several changes of water, and lay them out in a single layer on a glass or plastic plate or screen.

7.Put the plate in a warm place until the seeds are fully dry, which can take several weeks.
[h1]Peppers[/h1]
1.Cut peppers open to find the seeds in a mass on the central stem.

2.Brush them off the stem onto a plate or screen.

3.Put seeds aside to dry.
[h1]Squashes[/h1]
1.When squashes are ready, break them open and remove the seeds.

2.Hold the seeds under running water, rubbing them between your fingers to remove any stringy material and membrane.

3.Then lay them out on a plate or screen to dry.
[h1]Melons[/h1]
1.For watermelons, simply rinse the seeds under running water to remove any traces of flesh or membrane. For cantaloupe and muskmelon, seeds will have more fibers and membrane attached to them. Wash this off, rubbing the seeds between your fingers to remove as much as the debris as you can.

2.Then put the seeds in a container of water, and the good seeds will sink to the bottom.

3.Remove what comes to the top, give the good seeds another rinse, and dry them on a plate or screen.
[h1]Peas and Beans[/h1]
1.Pick the brown bods from the vines and remove the seeds, which will require about six weeks of air-drying. One way is to put them in loosely woven baskets and stir them once a day.

2.If frost or other inclement weather threatens legumes that are ripe but not dry, pull up the vines by the roots, and hang the plants upside down in a warm area, such as your basement or barn. The pods will draw energy from the plants for another few days, which will increase the seed viability.

Other Pods

Radishes, lettuce, and Chinese greens also produce seeds in pods after the plant has flowered. With these vegetables, too, it is best to let the pods dry on the plant.

These plants, however, tend to dry from the bottom up, a few pods at a time. The dry ones are prone to shattering and spreading their seed all over the ground, so either bag the seed heads—literally putting a paper bag tied at the base over the plants to capture the seeds—or pick the dry pods on a daily basis.  Old nylons or row-cover materials work well for bagging, because you can see what's going on with the pant.
[h1]Storage[/h1]
Once your seeds are completely dry, they can be stored in any suitable containers and kept in a cool, dry area.

For large seeds, such as beans, you can recycle the cardboard canisters that certain snack foods come in.

For small seeds, such as pepper and tomatoes, washed-out pill bottles work well.

Seeds will remain viable for up to 15 years, depending on type. You can extend their viability by freezing them, especially if you have a zero-degree freezer. Properly dried and frozen seeds will remain viable for at least 40 years!

We hope that you enjoy saving the seeds from your favorite plants! If you have any tips, please post below!  For seed swapping, please go to our Seed Swap Discussion Forum.
 
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Thanks for the seed saver info TennSmoker!  I've been interested in doing this for quite some time now but I just never seem to follow through.  I have several raised beds that I use every year for veggies.  Tomatoes, jalapeno, bell, habanero peppers, zuchinni, cucumbers, onions, garlic are annual regulars in my garden.  I try at least one new variety of veggie each year.  I am very excited that I grew two different varieties of eggplant this past growing season and now will make them a regular addition to my yearly garden.  3/4" slices grilled with EVOO, salt, pepper, and finished with grated parmesan cheese is wonderful.  Anyway, I'm kind of wandering here but most of my veggies are planted as containers purchased from local garden shops and maybe this will be the year that I save seeds from my garden and plant at least a portion of my annual garden with them.  Thanks for the post!
 
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