OJ Highland Fire Management

[DougE]

Ty Doug,

I see you are in Richmond, I'm in williamsburg:)

Cool, Howdy, neighbor!

That is about the size I am using. Only difference is my hickory that size is 9-12 moisture content while oak is 22-25 percent.

Pre-heating the splits on top of the firebox will dry them out some. Wood is hygroscopic and, even when seasoned, will absorb moisture in humid climates like ours.

 

[xoric]

Cool, Howdy, neighbor!


Pre-heating the splits on top of the firebox will dry them out some. Wood is hygroscopic and, even when seasoned, will absorb moisture in humid climates like ours.

You know, I wonder if i should have checked them after I pre heated them if it would get an accurate reading . The first 2 oak splits I put them in my charcoal grill after I grilled the other night to try and dry out some lol.

Yes, it's been humid and hot here for several weeks and then the next day the temp will drop 15 degrees lol

 

[xoric]

I'm on cell phone e so my responses are short. The monster read 24.9 on the one I split to get in the middle

Lol, autocorrect jumped in. It was supposed to be moister read 24.9

 

[DougE]

Yes, it's been humid and hot here for several weeks and then the next day the temp will drop 15 degrees lol

Rain would be great about now. My hay field is mowed, and the short grass left is just going to burn up without some rain.

 

[xoric]

Rain would be great about now. My hay field is mowed, and the short grass left is just going to burn up without some rain.

Yeah Doug, some rain would be nice! Seems like here lately we go with rain for an extended period or it's 90+ and sunny for several weeks. Hopefully you get done rain up your way soon!

Kevin

 

[DougE]

Yeah Doug, some rain would be nice! Seems like here lately we go with rain for an extended period or it's 90+ and sunny for several weeks. Hopefully you get done rain up your way soon!

Kevin

Next 10 days ain't looking too hopeful as far as rain.

 

[xoric]

Next 10 days ain't looking too hopeful as far as rain.

Well that is not good, but as you probably know here in eastern KY, it could change pretty quick, so here is hoping it does for you Doug!

 

[DougE]

as you probably know here in eastern KY, it could change pretty quick

"Don't like Kentucky weather, stick around a few minutes and it'll change".

And yeah, hope it changes to rain directly lol.

 

[xoric]

"Don't like Kentucky weather, stick around a few minutes and it'll change".

And yeah, hope it changes to rain directly lol.

Man Doug, that is the saying around here! LOL

 

[xoric]

Ok update on the fire management, even though I have not tried all the suggestions, just have not had enough time today.

Update 1.
- throw down a small amount of unlit lump charcoal on bottom of pit.
- light lump charcoal in chimney and then dump it on top of unlit coals.
- Added 1 split of 9" x 2" oak.
For 10 minutes straight I would have to take my air compressor hose and lightly blow on the wood for it to stay flamed up. 1-2 minutes later it would die out.
I then took my hickory/cherry (good moister content) and placed 1 hickory on top of coals. Temp climbed to 245 and lasted 40 minutes before I had to add another split. Placing splits directly on the coals got the split to catch and stay flaming with a longer lasting burn and temp around 240-260.

Update 2.
Same process as Update 1 with the coals.
- Used charcoal box this time to get airflow underneath.
- Used hickory/cherry splits that were good
- Temp climbed to 290-300 on average
- Wood lasted 20 minutes with same size splits

So for these two runs it appears with good seasoned wood the firebox crate did burn more clean, hotter, and did not last as long. The splits that were put directly on the coals did not get as hot, did not have but a few minutes of dirty smoke and burned 2x as long.

I did not try the V-shape out of the grates yet and did not try to take the extended smoke stack off yet. I may do that in the next few days. Right now I believe it is safe to say my problem all alone was the oak splits that have a moister content between 23-25% just is not going to work, no matter the size I use.

I will continue to update with any tests I do. Thanks for all the suggestions also!!!!!

Kevin

 

[1MoreFord]

You know, I wonder if i should have checked them after I pre heated them if it would get an accurate reading . ...................................

Yes, it's been humid and hot here for several weeks and then the next day the temp will drop 15 degrees lol

Pre-heating will not change the moisture in the center of the wood. Likewise, soaking wood will not change the moisture in the center of the wood. High humidity will not either.
Preheating is only to get the surface of the wood ready to ignite.

You mentioned how your temps went up to around 290 and your time between fueling came down to about 20 minutes. Can you control that with your intake damper? I.E. bring the top temp down to about 250 which should extend your time between fuelings. If not you have firebox leaks which I would investigate and try to fix.

 

[DougE]

Pre-heating will not change the moisture in the center of the wood.

I was speaking of well seasoned wood that had taken on moisture from the humidity in the air. I believe pre-heating will dry most of that moisture out. Obviously, it isn't going to do much for wood that's still green.

 

[xoric]

Pre-heating will not change the moisture in the center of the wood. Likewise, soaking wood will not change the moisture in the center of the wood. High humidity will not either.
Preheating is only to get the surface of the wood ready to ignite.

You mentioned how your temps went up to around 290 and your time between fueling came down to about 20 minutes. Can you control that with your intake damper? I.E. bring the top temp down to about 250 which should extend your time between fuelings. If not you have firebox leaks which I would investigate and try to fix.

Hey Joe,
I decided to try the oak another time this evening after I watched this video.


I thought maybe putting small chunks/splits like this guy did in the video might spark the oak to catch flame and stay lit. LOL, I was wrong haha.

Are you saying I can either kiln dry some pieces, let them air dry naturally because letting them sit inside the firebox isn't going to bring down the moister content like I need to?

I actually did close the damper down by small amounts and you are correct, it did bring the temp down slightly yesterday evening. I didn't mention that in my previous post, but yes, I did do what you suggested and that worked.

The cooking chamber lets out a small amount of smoke when putting on a new split, and it really isn't much to speak of though.

Thanks again!

 

[xoric]

I was speaking of well seasoned wood that had taken on moisture from the humidity in the air. I believe pre-heating will dry most of that moisture out. Obviously, it isn't going to do much for wood that's still green.

Hey Doug,
The wood does have cracks appearing on ends, but I still think they are a little heavy. I tried this evening with the problematic wood and it was a fail. If I try tomorrow with my well seasoned wood, only thing I would do is try to tune my temps because everything goes pretty much as planned with it. I did close the damper at small increments to reduce the max temp and that worked as planned so going forward I know what to do.

Thanks to you and all the others for chiming in and giving advice!

kevin

 

[DougE]

I did close the damper at small increments to reduce the max temp and that worked as planned so going forward I know what to do.

Yep, leave the stack fully open and control the fire at the intake. Don't get too wound up with some temp swings either direction. Trying to hold it to a tight temperature range will have you forever screwing with vent openings and pulling your hair out in the process. Let it swing in either direction and let it run.

 

[xoric]

Yep, leave the stack fully open and control the fire at the intake. Don't get too wound up with some temp swings either direction. Trying to hold it to a tight temperature range will have you forever screwing with vent openings and pulling your hair out in the process. Let it swing in either direction and let it run.

LOL, man I tell you I was bad when I got my pellet smoker, but like you and others have said, don't get too wound up with it if it's not a huge swing. I have learned to not sweat it anymore :)

Kevin

 

[SmokinEdge]

Lots of pitmasters cook with “green hickory “ it’s a thing and it burns fine. That said wood that is 25% or less moisture is generally acceptable to most cooks. Wood that gets low in the teens is considered to dry, burns to fast and produces noticeable less smoke/flavor. Personally I’m thinking the oak you have is actually higher in moisture than 25%. Not sure how you are checking it but Maybe your tester isn’t calibrated right? I still think you have a draw issue.

You mentioned keeping the upper FB door open, that’s counter productive, but have you tried leaving the end FB door cracked open? Lots of pits are actually designed to draw that way and have no actual intake vent other than the end door.

 

[xoric]

Lots of pitmasters cook with “green hickory “ it’s a thing and it burns fine. That said wood that is 25% or less moisture is generally acceptable to most cooks. Wood that gets low in the teens is considered to dry, burns to fast and produces noticeable less smoke/flavor. Personally I’m thinking the oak you have is actually higher in moisture than 25%. Not sure how you are checking it but Maybe your tester isn’t calibrated right? I still think you have a draw issue.

You mentioned keeping the upper FB door open, that’s counter productive, but have you tried leaving the end FB door cracked open? Lots of pits are actually designed to draw that way and have no actual intake vent other than the end door.

Hey SmokinEdge,
I have read that from a few sites as well, where the wood is 8-12% MC it will burn fast and produce less smoke flavor. Well, that did cross my mind a few times that it may be more than 25%. Here is the moister meter I am using.

Wood Moisture Meter - Digital Moisture Detector Moisture Tester, Pin-Type Water Leak Detector Damp Tester Dampness Meter for Wood Building Material Firewood Walls Paper Floor (Sliver) - Amazon.com

Wood Moisture Meter - Digital Moisture Detector Moisture Tester, Pin-Type Water Leak Detector Damp Tester Dampness Meter for Wood Building Material Firewood Walls Paper Floor (Sliver) - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I will go out tomorrow morning and check a fresh cherry log I cut down about 3 weeks ago.

Yes, on the oak the only way I can keep it with a flame is to have the side vent all the way open and the top of the firebox lid open. With the other two woods I can close the lid when it catches and leave the side vent door open about 1/4 - 1/2 and it's usually fine.

Well, I could not wait until tomorrow. I went outside and split this little 3" stick in half and took a reading. Here is the pic. I just cut this 3 weeks ago. I am starting to have doubts on the moister meter now.

 

[cajun dozer]

Hey Keith,
Yes, those splits are way too big. 16" in length and 4" or bigger in width. I am splitting those to where they are 2-3" thick, trying to get the 2" more and about 10-11" in length.
Moister meter shows on ends and fresh split between 18-25%. I still cannot get those to keep a flame, even if I put them on top to pre-heat. They will light if I blow on them, but once I close the lid to firebox, they go out.

The hickory and cherry I got from a different source has a moister content of 8-12% on average. I have had better luck with those pieces for the most part, but I am still not consistent with the very first splits I put down on the coals like I want to be.

Kevin

I find if I put my splits in the cook chamber instead of on top of the fb,, they light up quicker,, I also have an OKLAHOMA JOE OFFSET

 

[xoric]

Well I came on here tonight to give an update on my progress. I always thought my wood splits had too much moister in the middle of them after splitting, although i was not aware the size was too big as well. The past two days I have did test runs for about 4 hours each day.

Yesterday I took my cutoff wheel and cut the top firebox grate about a few inches, not quite halfway so I could push it to the far left or far right and stick a piece of split on there to heat up. Cajun, I did not see your comment until a few moments ago, but you nailed it. It seems from the oak splits I have right now with the moisture in them, I need to put them inside my firebox to heat up. I can say this along with Cajun, when it's time to add a split, it catches in probably 15 seconds on average now. I have my splits 9-10" in length and 1.5-2.5" in diameter.

Here is a pic I did yesterday with the grate cut off some and where I placed my split to heat up. I do find the oak splits do last longer than my hickory and my oak splits are smaller in diameter as well.

Oh, and those firebricks are just there to try and protect the bottom of my firebox from rusting/burning out for long term usage. Not sure if it will help, but it seemed like it should.

Thanks again everyone.

Kevin