OJ Highland Fire Management

[xoric]

Hello,
Not sure if this is the correct section to post a thread on troubleshooting or not. Here is the problem I am having right now on the offset smoker. Listed below you can see the mods that came with my smoker, it was used and in excellent condition, well seasoned for $150 so I thought that was a good deal.

I can maintain a steady temp and from left to right on the smoker is about a 15 degree difference. With a probe in the center at grate level it is about 10 degrees different, with it being slightly hotter than the gauges. However my main problem is after getting a good coal bed started my splits have a difficult time staying on a clean, burning fire. I have to leave the firebox lid open for five minutes to keep them flaming, once I shut the lid within 5 minutes the flame is gone and they are smoldering. The splits are 10-11 inches long and about 2-3" thick.

Tonight I did not use the charcoal firebox, but rather left the coal bed on the floor of the firebox. I was able to finally get a good clean burn by using a log cabin style with 2 small splits parallel to the firebox, then 2 more crossing those. Once those were ready to be coals I put two more splits on top of those and left the firebox open for about 5 minutes, then shut it with side door closed 3/4 of the way.

I did start with oak that was in the 18-25% moister content and then moved to hickory which was between 10-15%. The oak, no matter what I tried, I could not keep a flame on it.

Is the oak still just too wet?
Any suggestions to get the new splits to catch flame besides heating them up on the top of the firebox?

Thanks!

OJ Highland Offset Smoker
[mods]
- lavalock smoke stack lowering kit
- lavalock horizontal baffle plate
- lavalock stainless steel water pan
- dual temp gauges
- smoke stack extension

 

[SmokinEdge]

I really don’t think you have much of a problem. Question is, how does the food taste? That said, in your smoker I think that 2-3” splits are on the larger side. Around 1 1/2 will work better on those type pits but YMMV.

 

[xoric]

I really don’t think you have much of a problem. Question is, how does the food taste? That said, in your smoker I think that 2-3” splits are on the larger side. Around 1 1/2 will work better on those type pits but YMMV.

Thanks for the prompt response. The pork butt I smoked did come out really good as I had my temps between 220-260 for the entire time, but I had the same problem as I did on this "test" run. Took about 2 hours to get it where I wanted it. Those oak splits are a little thicker than my hickory and not as dry. I will do another test run and try a little smaller in diameter on the oak and see what happens. I will attach 2 photos, one of the pork and other 1 of the rick's I have of oak/cherry.

As you can see I need to split each one of these big splits up before smoking them in this smoker lol.

Oh, and these past two days I have not been smoking anything, just doing dry runs for practice :)

 

[SmokinEdge]

One thing I will say, if the food tastes good don’t make big changes. Don’t worry so much about temp difference either, note those differences but don’t spend time trying to fix or change them, rather just work with them. Learn your pit and just make good food. Don’t spend much time trying to change the pit. They don’t all run the same and this isn’t a YT video. Just work with it.

 

[xoric]

One thing I will say, if the food tastes good don’t make big changes. Don’t worry so much about temp difference either, note those differences but don’t spend time trying to fix or change them, rather just work with them. Learn your pit and just make good food. Don’t spend much time trying to change the pit. They don’t all run the same and this isn’t a YT video. Just work with it.

When I first got my pellet smoker I did worry about certain temps for sure, but since then as long as I am in 200-275 for the pork I am good.
You are correct on those YT videos, one reason I came here to ask for advice :) as there were probably 2-3 out of many I have watched that actually "taught" the basics for the backyard smokers. I was starting to get aggravated when I first put my first couple splits on to start with and could not get past that dirty smoke lol. I totally agree, each pit is different and you have to figure yours out. Trial and Error :)

Ty,
Kevin

 

[JckDanls 07]

Yea... I'm gonna venture to say those splits in the picture are to big... Split them again if not twice... Are you laying some on top of the firebox to preheat before throwing in the FB ?? This helps them to ignite quicker..

 

[xoric]

Yea... I'm gonna venture to say those splits in the picture are to big... Split them again if not twice... Are you laying some on top of the firebox to preheat before throwing in the FB ?? This helps them to ignite quicker..

Hey Keith,
Yes, those splits are way too big. 16" in length and 4" or bigger in width. I am splitting those to where they are 2-3" thick, trying to get the 2" more and about 10-11" in length.
Moister meter shows on ends and fresh split between 18-25%. I still cannot get those to keep a flame, even if I put them on top to pre-heat. They will light if I blow on them, but once I close the lid to firebox, they go out.

The hickory and cherry I got from a different source has a moister content of 8-12% on average. I have had better luck with those pieces for the most part, but I am still not consistent with the very first splits I put down on the coals like I want to be.

Kevin

 

[1MoreFord]

18% is near the upper end of moisture for good cooking wood. Wouldn't go over 20% if at all possible and then only sparingly with a good coal bed. Always take a moisture reading in the middle of a freshly split piece of wood. IOW, take one of your splits and split it again, fresh, and then take a reading to be truly accurate.
I used to use wood the size you have all the time in my old OK Joe Longhorn, but it may have been a bit larger than yours. Always started with a good bed of lump coal on a coal grate and later in a round bottom coal basket. Never had to leave any door open except to help getting a fresh log to flame up. The damper in the end firebox door was always sufficient on the Longhorn.

 

[xoric]

18% is near the upper end of moisture for good cooking wood. Wouldn't go over 20% if at all possible and then only sparingly with a good coal bed. Always take a moisture reading in the middle of a freshly split piece of wood. IOW, take one of your splits and split it again, fresh, and then take a reading to be truly accurate.
I used to use wood the size you have all the time in my old OK Joe Longhorn, but it may have been a bit larger than yours. Always started with a good bed of lump coal on a coal grate and later in a round bottom coal basket. Never had to leave any door open except to help getting a fresh log to flame up. The damper in the end firebox door was always sufficient on the Longhorn.

Hey Joe,
I'll do that when I get home and get a measurement. I can say this, I have tried several pieces of the oak I just received, and even though the guy said it was seasoned and been air dried for over a year, I have not been able to get that fresh log to flame up and stay flamed up.

My charcoal basket seems to just let the coal bed fall through the holes and I am stuck with little to no coal bed at all in the basket. Last night I did not use it and just used the floor of the firepit. I was able to keep a really good size coal bed and just worked the ashes around and things were much better. Not sure how that will effect the long term use of the bottom of the firepit though.

In the back of my mind I was thinking the oak I was using was too large and too wet still, but was wondering if anyone else had any thoughts or opinions on how to get those fresh splits to start with to catch a flame and keep them.

Ty!

Kevin

 

[SmokinEdge]

Code:

OJ Highland Offset Smoker
[mods]
- lavalock smoke stack lowering kit
- lavalock horizontal baffle plate
- lavalock stainless steel water pan
- dual temp gauges
- smoke stack extension

To me your wood is fine, but you have a draft or draw problem. These small offsets are known for their lack of draw. We are talking air flow. This consists of both intake, exhaust, and elevation height differences between the two. As designed those numbers are bare minimum on these cookers.

2 things that I think will help. First is to remove the added “smoke stack lowering kit” this mod changes the draft or draw numbers in a negative way. It really can’t work well in the current configuration. By removing this I think air flow will increase, which ultimately I think is most of the problem.

Secondly, I would build a grate for the coals that is maybe 1 1/2” or so off the floor of the firebox. This will allow air to feed the bottom of the fire. There is none when burning directly on the floor.

Start with the stack lowering removal first. Try it. If more is needed then look into the grate, but do one thing at a time. We are “tuning” so only change one thing at a time.

 

[xoric]

To me your wood is fine, but you have a draft or draw problem. These small offsets are known for their lack of draw. We are talking air flow. This consists of both intake, exhaust, and elevation height differences between the two. As designed those numbers are bare minimum on these cookers.

2 things that I think will help. First is to remove the added “smoke stack lowering kit” this mod changes the draft or draw numbers in a negative way. It really can’t work well in the current configuration. By removing this I think air flow will increase, which ultimately I think is most of the problem.

Secondly, I would build a grate for the coals that is maybe 1 1/2” or so off the floor of the firebox. This will allow air to feed the bottom of the fire. There is none when burning directly on the floor.

Start with the stack lowering removal first. Try it. If more is needed then look into the grate, but do one thing at a time. We are “tuning” so only change one thing at a time.

Never thought about the stack being a problem. I will not be home for the weekend so it will be next week before I can actually do more test runs, but I will give this a try and see what the results are.

I have thought about building a grate instead of using the charcoal box.

TY!

Kevin

 

[BigW.]

I have thought about building a grate instead of using the charcoal box.

Is the grate on the floor of the box? After the stack trial run, you could elevate the charcoal box. Use whatever you have laying around...large nuts, small rock or fire brick. Just to get it 1/2 in or more off the bottom.

 

[1MoreFord]

Since your coals are falling thru your coal basket, line the basket with a smaller mesh material to prevent this.

 

[Gonna Smoke]

Here's a video that may help you...


For what it's worth, I have a Highland and it's my workhorse...

 

[DougE]

Secondly, I would build a grate for the coals that is maybe 1 1/2” or so off the floor of the firebox. This will allow air to feed the bottom of the fire. There is none when burning directly on the floor.

The "V"grate configuration works pretty well in the OKJ fireboxes.

Splits this size, as long as they are dry or smaller.

 

[xoric]

Is the grate on the floor of the box? After the stack trial run, you could elevate the charcoal box. Use whatever you have laying around...large nuts, small rock or fire brick. Just to get it 1/2 in or more off the bottom.

Hey BigW
The charcoal box is about 3" I think off the center of the bottom of the firebox.

 

[xoric]

Since your coals are falling thru your coal basket, line the basket with a smaller mesh material to prevent this.

Makes sense!!

 

[xoric]

Here's a video that may help you...


For what it's worth, I have a Highland and it's my workhorse...

Ty,
I've watched that video a few times. I did find that one of the better ones.

 

[xoric]

The "V"grate configuration works pretty well in the OKJ fireboxes.

View attachment 723018

Splits this size, as long as they are dry or smaller.

View attachment 723020

Ty Doug,

I see you are in Richmond, I'm in williamsburg:)

That is about the size I am using. Only difference is my hickory that size is 9-12 moisture content while oak is 22-25 percent.

 

[xoric]

18% is near the upper end of moisture for good cooking wood. Wouldn't go over 20% if at all possible and then only sparingly with a good coal bed. Always take a moisture reading in the middle of a freshly split piece of wood. IOW, take one of your splits and split it again, fresh, and then take a reading to be truly accurate.
I used to use wood the size you have all the time in my old OK Joe Longhorn, but it may have been a bit larger than yours. Always started with a good bed of lump coal on a coal grate and later in a round bottom coal basket. Never had to leave any door open except to help getting a fresh log to flame up. The damper in the end firebox door was always sufficient on the Longhorn.

I'm on cell phone e so my responses are short. The monster read 24.9 on the one I split to get in the middle