MES40 Concerns

[AGolden0731]

1st off, let me say I don't use this MES40 near as much as I thought I would when I got it. It's close to 9 years old now...certainly a discontinued model.

This past Thanksgiving, I ran into an issue where it cut off 3 times roughly an hour into the cooking duration. I was getting a intermittent "buzz" coming from the rear element access cover area. Never heard it before then. Luckily, I was able to restart the unit all 3 times and continue cooking without ruining the bird. Then I sorta pushed this thing into a corner to tinker with later.

Now is later. After reading some threads here, I determined that my element was the likely culprit. So I bought a replacement. I also determined the issue could have even been a corroded grounding connection that I noticed upon removing the element. The ring terminal basically disintegrated when I went to detach it.

Regardless, I had a new element to install, so I addressed the ground wire issue while it was out and accessible. Spliced in the supplied connectors that were in the box and crimped on a new ring connector for the ground wire. Got everything buttoned up and turned it on and ran it through a heat cycle.

1st observation: I don't think it heats up near as quick as it did. Is this common with replacement elements? This is a 1200 watt unit and I installed a 1200 watt element the same specs as what I took out. It climbed all the way to the max 275°F....but it seemed like it took "a while" to get there. It did maintain once it reached the temp and I could hear the element kicking off and on to regulate the temp. Also, no more intermittent buzz from the rear element cover.

2nd observation: When I was satisfied that it was working and turned it off, upon unplugging it from the outlet, I noticed the plug was a bit warm....not HOT...but warm enough obviously to bring it up here. To be honest, I don't remember unplugging it in the past right after cooking so I don't know it this is new or not. I realize that high draw current appliances such as this will generate some heat in the plug, just not sure it excessive.

Should I whip out my multimeter to check anything? Or would you seasoned electric smoker folk say my concerns shouldn't be concerns?

 

[chopsaw]

I was getting a intermittent "buzz "

I also determined the issue could have even been a corroded grounding connection that I noticed upon removing the element.

Could possibly cause the buzzing in my opinion .

: I don't think it heats up near as quick as it did. Is this common with replacement elements?

My opinion again , but yes . At least that was my experience . I have an MES 30 . 800 watt element . should ohm out around 18 . Mine was 5 . Then dropped to 2 , and the GFCI wouldn't hold thinking there was a leak to ground .
New element fixed it , but it took longer to heat up . I had to re do my PID controller settings it was so slow .

Should I whip out my multimeter to check anything?

Just for the sake of it , you could check the resistance on the old element if you still have it .
I think a 1200 watt element should be around 9 ohms ?

Other than that , I think your fine . Going by your description anyway .
Consider the bypass wiring , and adding an Auber PID controller . Turns the MES smokers in to a great smoker .

 

[AGolden0731]

Could possibly cause the buzzing in my opinion .


My opinion again , but yes . At least that was my experience . I have an MES 30 . 800 watt element . should ohm out around 18 . Mine was 5 . Then dropped to 2 , and the GFCI wouldn't hold thinking there was a leak to ground .
New element fixed it , but it took longer to heat up . I had to re do my PID controller settings it was so slow .


Just for the sake of it , you could check the resistance on the old element if you still have it .
I think a 1200 watt element should be around 9 ohms ?

Other than that , I think your fine . Going by your description anyway .
Consider the bypass wiring , and adding an Auber PID controller . Turns the MES smokers in to a great smoker .

Thank you sir. I did keep the old element on the sole suspect that it may not have been the issue. I will check the ohms on it to see what readings I get. Luckily, I am fairly knowledgeable about electronics and repairs. I rarely throw anything away that I can repair.

 

[chopsaw]

I did keep the old element on the sole suspect that it may not have been the issue. I will check the ohms on it to see what readings I get. Luckily, I am fairly knowledgeable about electronics and repairs. I rarely throw anything away that I can repair.

My thoughts are the rapid return of the current on a low ohm element will let it heat up faster . I may be way off there though . Either way , I had the same result after changing out mine .

 

[dr k]

Mes 30 800 watts/120vac=6.667 amps. 120vac/6.667amps= 18 Ohms, nothing connected to the element but the ohm meter when testing.
Mes 40 1,200 watts/120vac=10 amps. 120vac/10amps= 12 Ohms
Then the porosity insulation around the resistance wire through the potting can short to the outer metal jacket of the heating element. Anomalies, shorting to ground can occur with heating elements especially outdoors in just the ambient humidity. You may have pitting on the underside of the element you can't see. I have a dedicated power cord with 1/4" lugs as a back up cord for the PID controlller and exactly to isolate test the heating element if it Ohms correctly but fails. Over time with the element conducting wire on the legs welded to the 1/4" male spades, to the resistance wire, through the potting insulation, inside the outside element metal jacket, connected to the aluminum mounting bracket with ground wire, anomalies you can't find testing ohms when the element is cold but fails when heated/heating pop up . My Mes 40 takes 20+ minutes to pre heat to 275*, then an hour+ to get back up to 275* with brisket, Butt whatever is soakin up heat.

 

[mike243]

Grab your toaster cord after you use it or toaster oven. I would think it's ready to roll now.