Counter Weights

[jabbo]

We are trying to decide what type of counter weight to use.  I have seen many different styles that function well.  I'm trying to find or design one that is both functional and cosmetically appealing.  I will eventually have a second smoker behind the one I have now, so they can't interfere with each other when the doors are open.  Anybody have any ideas?  What is your favorite or ideal style counterweight?  All opinions are welcome!!

 

[maple sticks]

Cable, pulley, and weights with short arm hooked to center of door for back to back smokers. Just a guess.
 

 

[radioguy]

It depends on how much weight you are offsetting. A lot of weight on a short lever or little weight on a long one. I have some old weights from a old Toledo balance scale. Planning on making it look old school with pulley cable setup. You can use black pipe or conduit to dress it up and avoid cable tangles. Got an old chunk of train rail?

 

[jabbo]

Thanks, guys!  We have been seriously thinking of setting up a cable system.  I think it would make the lowest profile and make less of an impact cosmetically, which I like, but the traditional "pipe mounted on legs angled back over the door" can look cool as well.  Which one is liked more or is there a different style that some of you like?  Anybody else want to "weigh" in?

 

[backwoods bbq]

Cable, pulley, and weights with short arm hooked to center of door for back to back smokers. Just a guess.
 

maple sticks is absolutely right. perfect setup...PLUS, if you ever need to crack a door slightly you can set it up to where you can lift the lid with one finger and the counterweight will hold it in whater position you want!

 

[vtmecheng]

Do you have a pic of your current setup? I saw what was on your profile but wasn't sure how far along the build is.  If that's the latest and greatest are there some other ones on-line that look like yours?  I want to get a good idea of your end result so the counter balance system can be designed efficiently within your space.

 

[daveomak]

Jabbo, evening.... Have you considered a 12 volt linear actuator on a cable system ???  They are very safe...   Dave

 

[rasimmo]

I like the 12v actuator idea Dave had. I have seen one huge smoker on a gooseneck trailer that used hydraulic rams. It looked cool and worked great, but they had it hooked to a tractor for hydraulic pressure. Not something you want to do I'm sure.

 

[dirtyhands]

I been thinking that if there was a spring loaded hinge meant to stay open that you could set the torsion on or something like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30958

but I could see there being a gap on a hinge like the one in the link

 

[jabbo]

Guys, these are all great ideas, but I have to say that Dave's actuator idea really got my attention.

Dave, can you give me some details on what your are talking about?

Unfortunately, the photos I have posted are the latest.  We have been held up because of weather for the last 2 weeks.  Fortunately, we were ahead so it didn't put us back too much.

Keep the ideas coming!!

 

[daveomak]

Below is a simple drawing.... actuator can be placed anywhere you can run the cable....  Weight of the door can be compensated with a counter weight...  The door should be picked somewhere near the center and the hinges must be stout... lifting the door from the center will put a lot of strain on the hinges...  The first dimension to be considered, should be the travel distance of where the door is "picked" to determine which actuator is needed... The nice thing about an actuator is they will not slip... they are a screw and once they stop, nothing will move... 

Jabbo LA and cable 1 (2).jpg

• daveomak
• Feb 24, 2013

 

[radioguy]

Just a thought, for the actuator consider using a actuator from an old big satellite dish.  You can get these next to nothing on Craig's.  $50 and up new.  

Essentially it is a 12v reversible  motor and gearbox driving a screw , varying its length.  They can handle a large load if balanced correctly.  

For any electrical actuator, adding a hand held remote control would be simple and add to the novelty.  Just thinking out loud. 

 

[rasimmo]

Dave's design would let you use a smaller actuator. The one I saw had the ram connected to the door and the other end raised behind it. That would require a stronger actuator, but be simpler to build.

 

[jabbo]

I think I will use Dave's idea.  I love the cool factor it adds to the entire rig.  IT is simple enough to do and once it stops, the strain is all on the cables.  As long as they are up to par, it should be safe.  The only drawback is power.  What happens I lose power or have a short while it is open.  I don't think it will fall, but would I be able to close the door manually?  Also, how much power would one need?  Would a single car battery work or would it need to be recharged after a few lifts?

 

[rasimmo]

It will not fall if you lose power. I am not sure about being able to manually operate it. You could look for actuators with that option. You will more than likely need to charge the battery. A small battery charger would be plenty. If you plan to put in a sink, water pump, and water heater you will already have the battery. You could get a converter/charger that is used in RVs for a more permenant solution.

 

[daveomak]

The actuator I use, has a stub hex shaft sticking out near the motor that can be hand turned with the aid of a socket and ratchet... It is slooooow, but it works...   Dave

 

[vtmecheng]

As cool as am actuator is for this I can't help but feel like using one for a door like this is somewhat overkill.  Wouldn't it be more reliable and easier to just have a counter weight that makes opening the door by hand real easy?  By introducing an actuator to the system it is just one more point of failure.  Just my humble opinion and I can understand the desire to make your doors open at the push of a button if for nothing more than it's cool.

 

[jabbo]

VTMechEng - That is really the only reason for doing it in my case.  I could build a counter weight and will most likely start off with one.  My rig is being built for my vending business and the novelty of it may attract a few more customers to my booth.  I'm not counting on that, mind you, but it would be a nice bonus.  My main issues with a counter balance is that I will eventually have a second smoker on this trailer next to this one and the counter balances may not allow the doors to open at the same time.  This is not a big issue and will not happen often, but is something I would have to keep in mind.  The other drawback is that they are really ugly if not done right.  Thanks for your input.

 

[rasimmo]

If you make it short enough it should not interfere with the second one behind it. It will have to be heavier, but you can always fill the pipe to add weight. Mine extends behind the tank less than 3 inches when open. I could have made it shorter if needed.

I hear ya on the looks too. I tried to make mine not look too bad, but my wife says it is a big ugly piece sticking out the top of the smoker. I should have let her lift the door before I added it. She would probably like the way it looks then. This project is not for her anyway so I guess I should not worry about her opinion.

 

[jabbo]

My second smoker will actually be touching this one when it is added.  I might end up with 1/8" in between them, so even a short one will not work.  It will until then and I might make one like that, but eventually, I will have to go another route.