Brinkmann Trailmaster Limited Edition

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Just upgraded to the BTLE, read this entire thread and added RTV to all the joints, baffle, thermos at grate level, clamps and will install the dryer vent, door felt and coal basket tomorrow. 

Seasoned it last weekend. Off this coming week so may do some ribs for her first smoke. So far I like thiis smoker.

Shawn
 
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Run some charcoal and wood thru it to s get it really smoking and then see where you have leaks. I did not have to do anything around screws, handles, etc, as well.  I did massage the lid so it closed completely and a couple gentle strategic taps here and there with a body hammer got total metal on metal when closed, then T RTV to seal entire opening. Taped  wax paper around one edge, then  RTV on the other, gently closed and let gravity get it leveled out and sealed. No leakage at all.
 
I did the same on my RF used Saran wrap, works great

Gary
 
I already seasoned it and the only spots were around the doors. I just installed felt today around the doors, built the coal basket and installed the dryer vent. 






Basket is 12x12x8

As long as the wife finds 2 racks of ribs I will be smoking ribs and baked beans tomorrow for her maiden voyage.

Shawn
 
So I finally made up my mind & went with the Brinkmann horizontal smoker. I just like the horizontals. Unforunatley it's not as well built as I had hoped!! It is a good gauge but there are so MANY leaks in the firebox it smokes more than the stack!! The stock gauge is off by almost 50. Then I have to keep the firebox damper all the way close just to try & keep it at 300:( not happy at all:(
 
I had a Brinkmann horizontal for 12 years or so and finally burnt the bottom out. It was a good grill/smoker good thick material held heat and didn't leak. So I didn't think twice about ordering another Brinkmann, but I went with the vertical smoker. It was delivered to the house, I took it out of the box to start assembly. I knew then I had messed up, at best this piece of junk is high grade beer can. But I was a dummy and bought it, so I guess I'll use it, how ever short lived that is. First time I fired it up, leaked like a sieve. So I dug around and found a gasket kit for it. It made a significant improvement with the leaks, as well as maintaining 225F but it still is nothing more that high grade beer can material. I burn through entirely too much coal and wood, its just not thick enough to maintain a good heat retention. The gasket set might help you. I'm sure there are a lot of vendors for gasket sets, but if your interested I ordered mine from-- BBQgaskets.com --(631)648-3403      There web site left me in doubt so I called them and they fixed me up with what I needed
 
Have to say I sort lucked into getting a Char Griller Pro. Started with just a Char Griller SFB that I modified into a mini smoker to see if I liked the idea of smoking meats,  and got hooked after  trying he big four - chicken, brisket, ribs and Pork Butt. What I liked about the Pro after I go that it is made of decently thick metal, and holds the heat well.   Others that shall remain nameless sound "tinny" when you tap on them and the "thicker" ones make a "thunky"  noise instead(carefully chosen scientific words). Added decent wheels to move it around, multiple temp gauges (two at great level, on at SFB grate level and the one that came with it. Lets me know temps wherever I smoke - the standard one for the top shelf. I kept the tope shelf which made the stack extension interesting toroute, but I can throw some chicken or ribs on them if I want to. And of course the previously mentioned RTV. So, good luck and  IMHO the best smoker is either the one you have,. or plan on buying, but  we learn something from all of them.  
 
About to install the two grate level thermometers and wondered if there were any best practices or advice?  Should I use a nail punch to mark where I want to drill the hole or just drill straight in - I was a bit worried about the drill running on me.  Any other thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks! 
 
 
About to install the two grate level thermometers and wondered if there were any best practices or advice?  Should I use a nail punch to mark where I want to drill the hole or just drill straight in - I was a bit worried about the drill running on me.  Any other thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks! 
Depends on your skills and bits. I used a bit that has a no walk tip. Went right through.

Good luck.

Shawn
 
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Having a start point is always  a good idea, but as Shawn said, it depends on your bit. Temp gauge location thoughts - I have mine at about the center of where I will be placing whatever I am smoking  so the probe tip is "just" above the grate when the lid is closed. I left the upper one in as it is  close to the grate level on the upper  so called bread warming rack - mine holds a slab or two of ribs with no problem. I also have one at about the grate level on my SFB to monitor the SFB temp overall, or if I ever wanted top smoke something in it. 

You can see the locations in the photo.

 
Great, thanks for the tips and photos - they certainly help!  I have my smoker completely assembled now so this is one of my last mods and I don't want to make a mistake at this point.  Off to Home Depot for a good step drill bit!!  
 
a tube of fireplace mortar patch fixed the leaks on mine real well,   I sealed it before using it so I don't know if you would have trouble getting it to stick now or not
 
 
About to install the two grate level thermometers and wondered if there were any best practices or advice?  Should I use a nail punch to mark where I want to drill the hole or just drill straight in - I was a bit worried about the drill running on me.  Any other thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks! 
Place about 4-5 layers of painter's tape over your target spot. The bit will stay in place.

I installed two of the River Country Professional Series thermos which required 13/16" holes. Started the hole with a tiny bit and worked up from there, slowly.
 
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After looking into a few options I decided not to use the step drill bit (biggest factor was they cost $45!).  Instead, I bought a 7/8" hole saw/drill bit combo unit that says it will work on metal and will be using that to make the holes I need to insert my two new thermometers.  I am going to try and start the drill on reverse to mark a dimple and then go from there, hoping that is a safe option for starting the holes.  Crossing my fingers nothing crazy happens...starting over is not an option!  HAHA 
 
 
After looking into a few options I decided not to use the step drill bit (biggest factor was they cost $45!).  Instead, I bought a 7/8" hole saw/drill bit combo unit that says it will work on metal and will be using that to make the holes I need to insert my two new thermometers.  I am going to try and start the drill on reverse to mark a dimple and then go from there, hoping that is a safe option for starting the holes.  Crossing my fingers nothing crazy happens...starting over is not an option!  HAHA 
Harbor Freight has an inexpensive step-bit set...
 
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