SMOKING CABINETS IDEAS

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by goingcamping, Feb 9, 2013.

  1. I have the lead on a couple these type of food warming cabinets at an auction...

    They are Stainless Steel Food Warmers, would like to convert them to a vertical smoker.

    It's an auction, but most of these go between $50-$100?

    Any ideas? Propane? Electric?

    Thanks,

    ~Brett





     
  2. Or this one...

    about the same details?









     
  3. Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  4. The inside of both are for full pans, the first one will hold 18 of 'em; it's also a 208v, so achieving higher temps (Grilling Level) is possible, just need to introduce a smoke element...which I'm thinking AMNPS. It's a Carter-Hoffman CH18

    The second one is only 120v, and is a warming cabinet. It looks about the same size? It's Sammons (I forget model number). This one would take more work to BBQ at the higher temps...still doable though? I made bid on both?

    ~Brett
     
     
  5. Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  6. i got one at auction for 20$ it is in poor cond. next to those it is a two door have the guts striped out ( every thing was burnt wiring fire)  their is a vent,air circulation system that im blocking , going with electric element for heat

    see the blanket warmer build im going in that direction unless i find  a reason it wont work in my case
     
  7. #1: Carter Hoffmann mdl CH18 Slow cooker and hold. SN 431013-102008. Volts 208,23a,60hz,1ph,4800w. Shipping dim 70" x 26" x 39". Doors are off slow cooker. 100deg-325deg.

    #2: Sammons Equipment M.F.G Corp. mdl HPR-2000 stainless steel warmer. SN J-24944. Volts 120v,17.3amps,2075watts. Shipping dim 67" x 28" x 40". Not sure, the manu. calls it a proofing/warming cabinet...I would say not hotter that 200deg?
     
  8. Biker,  Can you post some pics?

    My initial plan (If I win the auction?) is to make the slow cooker (first one above) 100% function with thermostat and heat control. Then add 1 or 2 AMNPS for smoke. According to the auction site the first is operational and except for pans/racks, is complete?!

    My ideas for ventilation is to drill a few vent's lower in the cabinet (where the AMNPS will be placed). Then get some 3" stove pipe (non-galvanized) and run it down into the cabinet? (See sketch) Then place the AMNPS's let the smoke flow up to fill cabinet...my only question is How much fresh air do I need? Any input would be good?!

    Thanks,

    Brett

     
  9. dward51

    dward51 Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    4,800watts for the first one is way overkill for smoking (but that's not bad either).  You would have to run a dedicated outlet to wherever you use it at though.  I lucked up before Christmas and picked up a McCall unit for $82 including tax and auction fees.  It came from a local school system.  I just need to get some work done to make room for it over here so I can get it out of storage.  For the price it was too good to pass up.  Mine has dual air circulation fans and the heating element is on top (and it's only a 1,500 watt element).  Interior size is about the same and I'm pretty sure a single pellet tray will be plenty for yours.

    I have a question though.  In the diagram you posted, you show the vent pipe going all the way to the bottom area of the warmer.  Why?   You want some fresh air flow in at the base to feed the pellet smoker tray and you want a exit vent at the top (on top or in the back or side near the top).  I would draw fresh air in through the bottom or a hole in the side very close to the bottom. Convection will then draw the smoke upwards through the entire chamber towards the exhaust vent.  With the vent stack like I see it in your diagram it will be drawing a lot of the smoke out without it flavoring the food.

    Or is that your fresh air intake?  If so, drawing from the top and exhausting to the top will not work.  You need a stack effect to let the heat and convection move the smoke upwards and through the cabinet.  The intake needs to be low and the exhaust high.  I'm pretty sure drawing from the top and piping to the bottom will not flow.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
    goingcamping likes this.
  10. z
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  11. Not knowing too much about the layout of these cabinets, my thoughts are all over the place? My initial thought was to bring the exhaust pipe down to the lower level, which my thought was it would cause the smoke to fill the heating chamber before the smoke could exit? The more I think of it, with a separate smoke/fire chamber, this design idea is flawed?!

    So, if I make a chamber out the lower portion for the AMNPS, drill fresh air holes in the bottom portion. Then just have a stack that can be throttled down to control flow, would that work better from an operational standpoint? Or, should I plan on have control of the fresh air at the bottom as well?

    I plan on using the heating element that came with this unit?

    Thanks,

    Brett
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  12. Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
    goingcamping likes this.
  13. Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for! I'll know if I win tomorrow at 3:00pm!!!
     
  14. Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  15. shoneyboy

    shoneyboy Master of the Pit OTBS Member

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  16. Well, I got the 208v Carter-Hoffman for....wait for it....wait for it...$50.00 + buyer's premium (10%)...so total of $55.00! Not too bad! So, once I go and pick it up, I'll post pictures, get the 220v hooked up for out on my lower patio!

    http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=6026606

    I'll plan on drilling a few lower fresh air holes in the bottom, drilling a few upper vents for exhaust and then ordering my AMNPS (wait, that first).

    I'll post more pictures when I pick it up and get it functioning!

    Thanks for enduring and humoring my newest obsession!

    ~Brett
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  17. Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
    goingcamping likes this.
  18. Black,

    Trust me...it all helps!!! I am so excited to go an get this cabinet and get it set-up! Having room for 18 full size pans is an amazing amount of jerky, briskets, ribs, pork. For me the best part is having a dedicated heating element...don't get me wrong, I love my NB SFB, and I've said I love being a "stick burner" but the amount of babysitting needed to achieve the final product is time consuming. I will now be able to smoke jalapenos peppers and other 24-hour smokes w/o using a forest's worth of mesquite or hickory.

    Totally stoked right here! BTW, these cabinets new MSRP for $13,000.00 (can be found for about $7,800, though) so it's a BARGAIN at $55!!!

    ~Brett
     

    P.S. Part of me wants to, somehow, convert it to a 100% stick burner...that idea is not off the table?!
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  19. dward51

    dward51 Master of the Pit OTBS Member

  20. Went and picked up the cabinet today...My initial impression was this cabinet was never used, or used so lightly. The inside looks brand-new, there's no food residue anywhere! The only damage was on the latch side, there's a small dent (looks like from when they loaded it onto the pallet?). Doesn't affect function at all...and me not having the 220v set up yet, I won't know if it functions, I'm betting it does?

    My only complaint is the protective plastic that's put on by the manufacturer is still on an so dry that peeling it off is going to be a whole day task (I shall persevere!).

    So to describe how this oven/slowcooker works...heating elements are up top (it's all self contained, as it can be taken off the cabinet without much effort? There must be fans that circulate the air along the back. If you look in photos 3 and 4 below you can see a tuning plate, it has all the holes along it, which get more numerous towards the bottom (Which makes sense!?) I will drill a few holes in the back lower portion for the AMNPS(s) (I will use metal plugs as a way to block them in the event it's too much fresh air. The top heating unit has a vent built in, so most likely will not need add'l venting?




     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2013

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