Char Griller 5050 Reverse Flow Conversion

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

perry hiltz

Newbie
Original poster
Jul 8, 2013
8
10
Metro Detroit
Hey all.

My first post.  I've been an avid lurker for a couple of years and I've been smoking at home for three.  I started out with a Smoke Hollow Electric smoker.  Being that I was a complete novice, I was cooking every other day.  Then I got my first Electric bill.  Well, after that I went to once a week but filled that thing to the max.

After a year of enjoying this I graduated to a Char Griller 5050 and added the offset firebox on Fathers day,  That was two years ago (2011).

Well I've finally gotten my smoking down to not a science but a simple great repeatable process.  But like every other Off Set Smoker user, I had that dreaded "HOT" spot at the firebox.  I thought about adding a deflector and baffle plates and even went so far as to buy the piano hinge, the metal.  Well that sat around for a full year without doing anything about it.  

This year as I search for a full rig with reverse flow to do catering and cooking for my wife's family at our annual family weekend, I thought about converting this thing to a reverse flow.  Now I don't own a welder nor do I have access to a metal fabrication facility.  So keep that in mind as you read this.

I wanted this to be a reverse flow smoker.  I bought a 24x24 piece of steel.  Then cut one side down to 14.5  inches.  On the long end of this I bent it 4 inches from the end to cover the opening of the firebox.  This left about 3 inches on the opposite.  Next I removed the three bolts on the top of the firebox.

Placing the bent end up against this I used a permanent marker to mark the steel with these three bolt locations.  Next I drilled a 1/4" hole at each of these spots.  Knowing I didn't want to lose smoke here I added some High Heat Permatex gasket silicon ( the orange one)

Next I bolted this plate into location.  I ran a bead of the gasket sealant down each side of the plate to minimize bleed through.  

This added the baffle plate.  Next I had to reposition the chimney.  Easy enough I had left over steel. I removed the chimney and drilled mounting holes.  After that I shaped the steel to the bend of the lid.  I bolted it on the underside of the lid to where the old chimney hole was.

Next I cut a 3 1/4" round circle and two new 1/4" mounting holes on the right.  I added the chimney on the right side and fired it up.  After getting a good 350 degree temperature in the smoker, I did not smell any of the silicone and minimal bleed around the baffle plate.

Next came the test, I added three chicken breasts, on the left where the smoke was, one in the middle and one on the far  right.  With a constant temperature of 240 degrees, an hour and half later, the three pieces were not moved, rotated nor changed, they were within 6 degrees of one another.  The one in the middle was the hottest as it was the thinnest.  I am happy.

Here is a video of my mods.



Thanks for reading.
 
Perry
welcome1.gif


Glad you got your smoker working for you.

When you get a chance will you drop by roll call and update your profile so we can all give you a proper SMF welcome.

Happy smoken.

David
 
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Latest posts

Hot Threads

Clicky