Hi there ya'll!
I've posted before about a UDS I built a while ago. I love it...but now it's time for the RF! I've been hitting up our local green malls (rural dumpster sites) and sourced a couple of main parts, the CC and FB. I'd love to shoot the number out there and get an "ok" or a "you're in the ball park" response. I've got a couple of questions to boot.
Here's the skinny:
CC 32x20=10,048 cu in
--it's an nice water tank with slightly domed ends, may be a 3" crown on the dome
FB 19x15=3,357 cu in
--It's a long propane tank cut down to size, it will have one slightly domed end (factory) and one cut off/flat end
Rec air inlet=10.07 sq in
FB to CC opening=26.86 sq in (I understand the "if round" and "if half moon")
I guess my question is one of order-of-process. The water tank CC was domed on one end and the same dome was inverted on the other end. I have cut the inverted end off and I am going to spin it around with a ID OD relationship that works great. It will looked domed on both ends wit an added seam. While the end is off, should I get my RF plate installed? I haven't totally worked out the FB to CC connection and shape (round or half moon). Do I need to determine this before I install the RF plate in order to maximize CC volume and get the best out of my shelf space? I was hoping to stuff 3 shelves into the 20" space; the middle being the biggest and close to center of cylinder.
I recently built a small cabin stove out of a 4gal propane tank. I found a laser very helpful to "draw" both level and plum lines on the domed end. There's really no other way to get an exact mitered square box of angle iron to "seat" into a domed end of a tank. On the coming build, I'm going to use the laser to establish my FB to CC cut lines, my RF plate location, and the location of the shelves in the CC.
I have another question that might be a bit silly. Do folks ever bridge the FB to CC relationship with a short stack (say 4") of pipe instead of the scribe-like overlapping forms? One would still have to maintain the proper sq in from one to the other. I had thoughts of making the small propane stove (mentioned in the previous paragraph) a FB for a smaller smoker, but didn't want to commit to cutting a half moon out of the back of the dome in the case I want to use it for a garage stove instead.
Thanks for the help! I'll get some pics rolling once I'm deeper into the project.
I've really learned an immense amount just sponging around on this site. The pit calculator is a dandy invention as well! Kudos to whoever got that going!
thanks again!, bones
I've posted before about a UDS I built a while ago. I love it...but now it's time for the RF! I've been hitting up our local green malls (rural dumpster sites) and sourced a couple of main parts, the CC and FB. I'd love to shoot the number out there and get an "ok" or a "you're in the ball park" response. I've got a couple of questions to boot.
Here's the skinny:
CC 32x20=10,048 cu in
--it's an nice water tank with slightly domed ends, may be a 3" crown on the dome
FB 19x15=3,357 cu in
--It's a long propane tank cut down to size, it will have one slightly domed end (factory) and one cut off/flat end
Rec air inlet=10.07 sq in
FB to CC opening=26.86 sq in (I understand the "if round" and "if half moon")
I guess my question is one of order-of-process. The water tank CC was domed on one end and the same dome was inverted on the other end. I have cut the inverted end off and I am going to spin it around with a ID OD relationship that works great. It will looked domed on both ends wit an added seam. While the end is off, should I get my RF plate installed? I haven't totally worked out the FB to CC connection and shape (round or half moon). Do I need to determine this before I install the RF plate in order to maximize CC volume and get the best out of my shelf space? I was hoping to stuff 3 shelves into the 20" space; the middle being the biggest and close to center of cylinder.
I recently built a small cabin stove out of a 4gal propane tank. I found a laser very helpful to "draw" both level and plum lines on the domed end. There's really no other way to get an exact mitered square box of angle iron to "seat" into a domed end of a tank. On the coming build, I'm going to use the laser to establish my FB to CC cut lines, my RF plate location, and the location of the shelves in the CC.
I have another question that might be a bit silly. Do folks ever bridge the FB to CC relationship with a short stack (say 4") of pipe instead of the scribe-like overlapping forms? One would still have to maintain the proper sq in from one to the other. I had thoughts of making the small propane stove (mentioned in the previous paragraph) a FB for a smaller smoker, but didn't want to commit to cutting a half moon out of the back of the dome in the case I want to use it for a garage stove instead.
Thanks for the help! I'll get some pics rolling once I'm deeper into the project.
I've really learned an immense amount just sponging around on this site. The pit calculator is a dandy invention as well! Kudos to whoever got that going!
thanks again!, bones