Rewiring MES40 help?

[wimpy]

If anyone has a chance, please give me an idea about how I might go about rewiring my Gen 2 MES40? It finally gave up the ghost. I have an Auber WST-1520H waiting in the wings for it. The 2 access panels in the rear are pictured open here:

Obviously the first thing I need to do is the replacement of the spade connectors.

Do I just wire an 18AWG power cord into the access panel with the ground wire (heating element? )and then plug directly into the PID? I'm definately out of my element here with this. I'm competent enough to do any homeowner wiring up replacing breakers in the breaker panel in the house but with this I'm afraid I might miss somthing safety wise. I would definately appreciate any advice anyone could give me.

 

[JckDanls 07]

Yes, Go straight from the element (with new high temp connectors) into the back of the controller. Now you can wire the snap switch (overheat switch which I think is the second picture) into it if you like that option. Ground to the body.

 

[dsk]

Open up the panel on the bottom of the smoker, and follow tallbm's thread at the top of this section of the forum. Basically, you are bypassing all the factory control stuff, and connecting the existing power cord to the element and thermal overload switch. There is a wire from the overload switch to the other side of the element that completes the circuit.

 

[normanaj]

MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES. I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance. Well here goes. Disclaimer: When messing with electrical equipment...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

If you have any questions tallbm can help with them.

 

[wimpy]

Open up the panel on the bottom of the smoker, and follow tallbm's thread at the top of this section of the forum. Basically, you are bypassing all the factory control stuff, and connecting the existing power cord to the element and thermal overload switch. There is a wire from the overload switch to the other side of the element that completes the circuit.

So flip the unit on its front and remove the whole plastic base and there should be another access panel?

 

[chopsaw]

flip the unit on its front and remove the whole plastic base and there should be another access panel?

Lay it on it's side . There should be an access panel underneath .
This is an MES 30 , but should be about the same access wise . There might be more wires .

Get yours opened up and post a picture . Some of the 40's can be done with the harness connections themselves . No cutting .

If you go straight off the element to the controller , you don't need to do anything in the bottom , but like said above you bypass the safety / high limit switch .

 

[wimpy]

Lay it on it's side . There should be an access panel underneath .
This is an MES 30 , but should be about the same access wise . There might be more wires .
View attachment 717028
Get yours opened up and post a picture . Some of the 40's can be done with the harness connections themselves . No cutting .

If you go straight off the element to the controller , you don't need to do anything in the bottom , but like said above you bypass the safety / high limit switch .

Thank you chopsaw, I'll head out in a bit and check it out!

 

[wimpy]

EUREKA!!! I would have never thought about looking UNDERNEATH the smoker! Read the different articles such as about not having to remove the back, ect... but I guess I never picked up on any wording about it being on the bottom! Well, my ignorance has been recified! A big thank you to those who resonded to this posting. Now to read a bit and figure out the bypass's

 

[chopsaw]

That's one that will need to be spliced to keep the high limit in the circuit . It's really easy to do , just a bit intimidating for people that don't do a lot of that stuff .
Smooth white to braided black , smooth black to braided black should do it , but double check me on that .

Smooth black and smooth white should be power in .

Edit : should be 2 separate braided black wires .

 

[dr k]

 

[zwiller]

Jumping in on this one too. I did the mod on my 30 but not on my new to me 40.

 

[JckDanls 07]

Smooth white to braided black , smooth black to braided black

This doesn't sound right... Your saying BOTH smooth wires (black and white) just go to one braided black
???

 

[chopsaw]

This doesn't sound right... Your saying BOTH smooth wires (black and white) just go to one braided black

No . Smooth white to braided black . Smooth black to the other braided black . There should be 2 .

 

[JckDanls 07]

There should be 2

OHHH OK... Sounds More Gooder ...

 

[normanaj]

EUREKA!!! I would have never thought about looking UNDERNEATH the smoker!

I needed that pointed out to me when I was first attempting the rewire.I was lucky I had to do nothing more than switch wire harnesses.

 

[chopsaw]

Sounds More Gooder ...

Thanks for pointing that out . When I re read it , sounds like what you were thinking . I edited it above .

 

[JckDanls 07]

I confuse myself easy... Don't need any help...

 

[wimpy]

Lay it on it's side . There should be an access panel underneath .
This is an MES 30 , but should be about the same access wise . There might be more wires .
View attachment 717028
Get yours opened up and post a picture . Some of the 40's can be done with the harness connections themselves . No cutting .

If you go straight off the element to the controller , you don't need to do anything in the bottom , but like said above you bypass the safety / high limit switch .

So, does it matter which wires I connect, as long as it's braided black to black, braided black to white?

 

[zwiller]

Mine was on the bottom as well and a bit more going on than expected. PCB mounted inside a plastic case. Took a few more screws to get it off and apart. Will wrap up next day or so. On the my 30 I simply cut and stripped the wires and used wire nuts. I have waterproof butt joints but wire nuts held up just fine on the 30. I disconnected the 3 wire harnesses and connectors. Power cord and braided lines to element easy to see. I will be doing smooth black (hot) to red braided and smooth white (neutral) to braided black. Looks like this will bypassing limit switch? tallbm

 

[chopsaw]

So, does it matter which wires I connect, as long as it's braided black to black, braided black to white?

I don't think it does . One keeps the circuit flow as intended on a schematic , but it all ends up at the element . My white was on the relay . I went white / neutral to braided black that was on the spade terminal .
Braided black on the relay to the smooth black / hot .

Look at the no back thread . He talks about that in the first post , starts at comment 8 . Read through that .