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One way to pull the tank in is to run some weld beads on the inside along the door opening. Since you only need about 1/8" it should not take too many beads to get in in. Best to do this with a stick welder, but if you are MIG, just go slow and work the puddle for a wide bead.
You can also wrap...
Coming along nicely. I like the detail on the hinge mounts.
Where in SoCal are you? No need to answer if you want to keep it private; or you can PM me.
No worries on etiquette, post what you want when you want. I've been lax myself since getting mine done, but I still need to paint it so more posts to come.
You smoker came out great and the Q-view is awesome. Likely the best food in the UK!
Really cool design and good build. You have some real talent on your team.
I agree with RadioGuy on the damper between the CC and the vertical warming/cooking chamber. I would size the opening the same as the Firebox/CC opening and add a damper so you can close it off if need be.
Been a while since I've been on here, but a few observations.
I would remove the dampers from the exhaust; even fully open, they are choking it off. You want the exhaust fully open when cooking.
Also you might want to attach vertical pipe to the exhausts. This will get the smoke up high enough...
If the FB was glowing red, the temp was in the 1300 to 1500 F range.
To get that hot your fire was way too big. When you insulate, you need to reduce the amount of fuel you burn.
May have been underdone.
Temperature probe should be in the thickest part of the flat.
When you reach your target temperature (I start checking it at 200°) pierce the thickest part of the flat with a skewer. When it goes in and back out with no resistance, it is done.
My briskets usually go...
I like it, and it is accurate.
"Dead on" accurate does not apply to smokers. You can have a pretty wide variation in dimensions and still have a good working smoker.
On this forum and this thread in particular, that is not a PC thing to say so weigh all the advice you get from multiple sources...
However it now appears that you are not interested in how the calculators work, nor in admitting your mistake.
You are only interested in defending your position and taking cheap shots at forum members who if you are being honest are only trying to help.
This is a case of comparing apples to oranges.
Dave's calculator bases all the numbers on the CC volume. It is the CC volume x .001 that gives the the FB air inlet sizes.
Feldon's uses the FB volume x .003 to calculate the FB Air inlet size, however since the Feldon's FB is based on the CC...