# Temperature control for my Oklahoma Joe Longhorn



## new2okiejoe

I have a Oklahoma Joe Longhorn that I purchased about a month or so ago.  I have smoked some butts and chicken on it.  The main problem I am having is keeping the temp. high enough.  I know this sounds crazy since most of the reviews talk about try to keep the heat down.  I have installed temp. gauges on each side of the cooking chamber down near the cooking grate.  It believe the hottest I have been able to get it is 260 degrees, and thats on the side nearest the fire box.  Usually when I fire it up, I put in a few briquettes in the firebox, then I put a full chimney of hot briquettes on top of those.  I also add a little wood as well.  Last time I fired it up, I put some oven thermometers on the racks, on each side just to see exactly what the temp was on the cooking surface fom side to side.  The side nearest the fire box was 250, and the other side was 190. I had the intake about 1/3 of the way open, and the stack about 1/2 open.  I know a diffuser plate will eliminate alot of that.  I find myself have to add wood or more charcoal every 30-45 minutes it seems.  Any suggestions?


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## daveomak

joe, morning and welcome to the forum....  Keep the smoke stack fully open at all time when smoking.... Use the firebox air intake to adjust the heat.....  With more air movement through the smoker, the temps will even out....   Dave


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## new2okiejoe

Thanks, I will try that.  Any suggestions for keeping it hot longer?  It just doesn't seem right that I should have to add more hot coals every 30 minutes or so.  Don't get me wrong, I love grilling and smoking as much as anyone, but I wouldn't think I should have to constantly be messing with the fire.


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## daveomak

joe, someone developed the Minion Method.....  Depending on the total time expected to run the smoker, add unlit briquettes.... Put 8-12 lit coals on the pile.... Draft wide open and when temp gets to target, close down draft to maintain the desired temp.... Your smoker must be pretty air tight so the draft is the only place air comes into the fire.... also, a firebox briquette holder that allows for good air flow and a place for ashes to fall thru into the bottom of the smoker helps alot...  Adjusting the draft will take time to learn.... wait 1/2 hour between adjustments or you will be chasing the temp forever....  Once you get the temp figured out, the settings should be very close the next smoke...  here is a thread on a basket a member made.....

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/125284/made-a-long-burning-charcoal-basket-for-my-firebox

If you can't control the temps, there are air leaks that need attention...   Dave


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## sqwib

Ditto Dave,

There are some mods you can make, one is to lower the smoke stack to the cooking grate.

Raise your firegrate 4" so you have proper airflow underneath the coals.  Make a fire basket

Do a search on Oklahoma Joe Longhorn mods and look into tuning plates. and extending the heat baffle.

Seal any leaks.


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## new2okiejoe

I have made a charcoal fire box and I have lowered the smoke stack to the cooking grate.  I am excited to try these modifications to see if they help.  I am considering getting a convection plate as well.  Any feedback on the convection plate?  You guys use them?


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## sqwib

new2okiejoe said:


> I have made a charcoal fire box and I have lowered the smoke stack to the cooking grate.  I am excited to try these modifications to see if they help.  I am considering getting a convection plate as well.  Any feedback on the convection plate?  You guys use them?


Mine is a reverse flow so yes it has a (convection) plate.

Many folks mod the traditional offset with tuning plates .

Do a search for tuning plates.

*TUNING PLATES SEARCH*


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## skull fish

My royal oak offset with extends chimney mod.
Ok, so what I learned is briquettes burn longer than lump for sure! And also with mine I see a difference in temperature,  250* on left side, will run 300* on firebox side, with a variable of 50* from thermometer to cooking grate level. I raised my cooking grates up about 2 inches to get more center heat. 

Also I find using a big split of wood or mini logs from cabela's vs. Chunks will burn hotter longer and give u a more even temp across the smoker. Small piles of lump charcoal & small chunks of wood will burn fast especially at trying 2 maintain 200 -225 temps.
Yes mine is a v-8 fuel pig! And needs tending at least every hour- or so. Lol


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## denden28

SQWIB said:


> Ditto Dave,
> 
> There are some mods you can make, one is to lower the smoke stack to the cooking grate.
> 
> Raise your firegrate 4" so you have proper airflow underneath the coals.  Make a fire basket
> 
> Do a search on Oklahoma Joe Longhorn mods and look into tuning plates. and extending the heat baffle.
> 
> Seal any leaks.



I've read a lot of people lower the chimney intake to the cooking grate level. What benefit does this provide?


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## daveomak

_*I've read a lot of people lower the chimney intake to the cooking grate level. What benefit does this provide?*_

Denny, evening.... I have no proof and have done no testing but, having the chimney extended down near the food grate, eliminates the "dead zone" where there is no air flow just above the RF plate....  Without air flow, the food will have a cold area around it from the food.....  I would like to think the lowered stack will increase the air flow on the cooking grate and act like a convection oven and speed up the cooking process....            Dave


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## titaneddie

So my wife bought me this same smoker for father's day.  Had been working to get one custom made but she didn't know so now even though I would not have chosen this one, that is what I have,  you know how it is, if momma aint happy....

First look over my concern was the opening from the fire box to the cooking chamber, I will be getting a plate for that but in the meantime I am using a water bowl to deflect some of the heat.  Upon seasoning the smoker getting the temp up was difficult and keeping it there was impossible.  I chalked it up to using some scrap logs of unknown origin to build heat.  So the next day I throw a butt on, same problem but I was using good charcoal and hickory, no matter what I did I could not get the heat right.  Now, I'm no newbie been smoking for twenty years and have used a bullet smoker, a bandelero (my favorite until they sold out to china) and a few others and was always able to work with them as is but this one had me stumped.  Ended up finishing my butt in the oven.  I got to evaluating what was happening and discovered that the coals on the bottom of the firebox were black and cold.  This means no air circulating so I was only cooking with the top layer.  My solution was to get two bricks the kind with 3 holes in them and put them down in the firebox.  Take one of the grates from the bottom of the cooking chamber and use it as well as the one that came with the cooking chamber but turn them lengthwise on top of the bricks, gives a bit more height and the holes in the bricks allow more airflow. Worked pretty good a lot better than the first time.  Got a charcoal basket coming but even with that I think I will still leave the firebox grates raised.


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## remmy700p

Try this to get more height and better airflow under your fire:













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__ remmy700p
__ Jul 2, 2013


















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__ remmy700p
__ Jul 2, 2013


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## danbono

Hi Remmy Was at Lowe's the other day only saw galvanize bolts, is that what you used?? Read some where about  galvanize not being soo good to use??
Thanks Dan


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## remmy700p

DanBono said:


> Hi Remmy Was at Lowe's the other day only saw galvanize bolts, is that what you used?? Read some where about galvanize not being soo good to use??
> Thanks Dan


There's not enough material there for it to matter (IMHO). I wouldn't use a plate of galvanized metal in the cooking chamber for something like a baffle though.


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## oddball

I'm currently using a Char-Broil model which will likely be replaced at the end of the season/year.  Hoping to get the OK Joe on sale/clearance at the end of the summer season.

In any case, a few thoughts based on my current model:

1) lower the smoke stack to grate level.  This lowers the heat (heat rises) and smoke to the cooking level and helps to manage your temps.

2) tuning plates.  Another must have to help disperse the heat more evenly from end to end.

These two mods alone should get your temps more even and consistent.  Actual heat and fire longevity are mostly a by product of outside temps and leakage.


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## remmy700p

OddBall said:


> ...Actual heat and fire longevity are mostly a by product of outside temps and leakage.


And those are a function of material gauge (thickness) and fabrication tolerances (quality). I can appreciate what the folks who fire up their smoker in sub-freezing temps have to do make it happen!!!


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## fwismoker

Great advice given..with regards to the Minion method try lighting your charcoal basket at the edge furthest from the cooking chamber.

No need to just dump the lit coals on top..outside in works just fine


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## kofseattle

New2OkieJoe, I have the same smoker and it is a nice mid range smoker but has some flaws. the biggest is the amount of air leaks. The door, the firebox and the chimney all have rather gaping gaps. These need to be closed up as best you can. I used tin foil to temp seal them but am looking for the right material to make it permanent. Then the other issue I had was the same, using too much charcoal! This thing will go through it like crazy! Try using split logs 3-4" around and about 8 inches long or so. I get a MUCH better temp and smoke from this. It made a HUGE difference. I start with a full chimney starter of charcoal and then add two good sized logs, bring the heat as high as I can get it and then adjust down. If I add 2 logs about once an hour or hour and a half I keep at my fav temp of 250-275 consistantly. It works for me. Hopefully some or all of this will help! Oh and I also found that I have to keep an eye on the ash tray so it doesnt get too full and stiffle the fire. Good luck! Smoke on brother!


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## james gordon

What length bolts are you using?


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## the1bigbull

I have the same grill, the first two mods I did was seal the cooking chamber and the firebox lid. The second was install a dryer vent 90 onto my stack. The reason for that is to maintain a more even heat thru the box. As we all know heat rises and with a straight shot across the top it tends to lose a lot of heat. I saw a 20 degree difference with these 2 mods. However i still have to add wood/charcoal about once an hour.


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## smokey bruin

Skull fish,

How did the mod on the exhaust pipe help?


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## mudfarmer

I've only done one smoke on mine with no mods. I had 2 fire grates sideways overlapping slightly cuz I thought it needed to be that high and it worked great


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## oldeboone

Hi, Dan .If you are concerned with galvanized bolts, Muriatic acid will remove it in short order. Ernie


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## danbono

OLDEBOONE said:


> Hi, Dan .If you are concerned with galvanized bolts, Muriatic acid will remove it in short order. Ernie


Hi Brunt off the galvanized bolts.

Dan


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## porkandbeef320

What did you use to seal up your lids with? I have noticed on my first smoke that I had smoke leaking out. My ribs were ok but could have been better. Thank you.             David


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## tomcat66

I used gasket material from a big green egg. Look this up on eBay. High-Temp Replacement Gasket with Adhesive backing for LARGE Big Green Egg RGKA


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## mudfarmer

Haven't put it on yet but I got some self adhesive nomex gasket for the chamber and fiberglass flat gasket for my firebox. I want to get it tight enough to run a blower with a tempstat


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## whiskeyboyz

1st - try using lump charcoal - it burns hotter and produces less ash. I own 4 offset smokers and half the fun of smoking is tending your fire. Not unusual to add charcoal/ wood for smoking ever 30-40 minutes. Allows some down time to enjoy a bourbon or a beer, and I also have a Lang 48 Deluxe stickburner and i have to add wood to it every 30-40 minutes to keep my temps up. 2nd check out www.kickassbbqsouth.com. I sell a metal baffle which controls the heat from front to back really well. Mister Baffler (U.S. Patent pending)  Custom bent for any offset smoker. and like the other guys said - leave the stack open all the time. Offsets smokers are like car engines - they have to breathe to run right.


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## takeoutgetdirty

Instead of adding duct work I added a plate to help bring the temperature up. I still need to add a baffle plate, just haven't done it yet. I want one that is removeable as I use my smoker as a big grill as well. I have been able to deal with it, by using more fuel













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__ takeoutgetdirty
__ Jun 8, 2014






I have been able to keep the temps farely stable with smaller fires then the older chargriller. I also keep my other wood warm, and ready to burn when needed.













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__ takeoutgetdirty
__ Jul 7, 2014






I haven't added gasket material around door yet but plan on it. My main problem is air flow. The one vent just doesn't seem to allow enough. I am trying to figure out agood way to allow more air flow and not lose the temp.


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## james1nc

Takeoutgetdirty said:


> Instead of adding duct work I added a plate to help bring the temperature up. I still need to add a baffle plate, just haven't done it yet. I want one that is removeable as I use my smoker as a big grill as well. I have been able to deal with it, by using more fuel
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Looks like you need to raise your fire grate, it helped when I raised mine


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## takeoutgetdirty

I will raise it during next smoke. Thanks


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## whiskeyboyz

He is correct. Raise the charcoal grate an inch or two and load up the firebox with charcoal. ALso, the baffles I make just lay on the smoke chamber grate and are not attached.


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## remmy700p

If you want an easily removable baffle plate, this is what I did:













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__ remmy700p
__ Jul 3, 2014






It's one of a pair of double-thickness aluminum cookie sheets I picked up at Target. I drilled diffuser holes with a hole saw and large drill bit. The sheet hangs from the cooking grate via two easily bendable copper wires. Works awesome. I have side-to-side temps within 5F of each other using this setup. And it's cheap too. The two pack of cookie sheets is like $15. The larger one fits my TMLE perfectly.  http://www.target.com/p/ovenstuff-c...54247#prodSlot=medium_1_27&term=cookie+sheets


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## the1bigbull

You can order replacement stove gasket material on the Internet from almost anywere. The stove pipe mod keeps the heat from going straight across the top of your grill and leaving the cooking chamber. It helps the heat mix better and forces the cooler air out the pipe.


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## whiskeyboyz

Try not to be stick burning in the offsets. You will get more heat from using hardwood lump charcoal and lay your smoking wood off to the side to smolder and smoke. Lump charcoal burns hotter than briquets and pruduces less ash.


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## remmy700p

WhiskeyBoyz said:


> Try not to be stick burning in the offsets. You will get more heat from using hardwood lump charcoal and lay your smoking wood off to the side to smolder and smoke.


I'm going to disagree here. The charcoal helps to get a wood fire started and keep a heat sink, but, once you've got a good base of heat, chunk hardwood is your best bet for a solid fuel/heat source in an offset with the cook chamber/firebox ratio of the Brinkmann TMLE.


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## ltomkins

BGE


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## adamstonad

[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]Here are pics of my mods for temp control.


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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

This is a video I did showing my mods to my cousin who has the same smoker and is having trouble keeping temp.  This video was done before I added my home made Horizon style plate in the pics above.  Now I am able to maintain temps within 2 or 3 degrees all the way across the pit. I hope this helps everyone.


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## beerking

Adamstonad, your video link comes up as private, and I cannot view it. Can I get access?

Thanks!

-The Beerking


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## adamstonad

It's now open for everyone.


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## beerking

Thanks!


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## beerking

Great video. I have done several of the mods. I don't have the latches, and I just bought a welding blanket, but have not attached it yet.

2 questions:

1. How did you get the blanket attached to the smoker box (and lid)?

2. I used RTV to attach the gasket, but it came off the smoker box after the RTV dried out from the heat. Any suggestions?


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## adamstonad

I have since replaced the gasket on the firebox with oven gasket and adhesive. Works better. I also have made my own horizon style diffuser. I cut the blanket to size and doubled it, used the thermometers on the lid to hold it in place, and three self tapping screws/ washers to hold the bottom tight and in place on the smoking chamber.


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## adamstonad

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## adamstonad

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## wimpy69

Did the edges fray after you cut the blanket and if so ,how did you prevent fraying?


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## adamstonad

My wife sowed the edge. Not sure what she called the stitch. Said it was a standard setting on her machine. Hope this helps.


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## fla-q

Remmy700P said:


> I'm going to disagree here. The charcoal helps to get a wood fire started and keep a heat sink, but, once you've got a good base of heat, chunk hardwood is your best bet for a solid fuel/heat source in an offset with the cook chamber/firebox ratio of the Brinkmann TMLE.


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## fla-q

I agree with you Remmy. I think the term smoking throws a lot of people off. You don't go out of your way to create smoke, it's a by-product of cooking with fire. My best cooks are when the wood has just the right moisture content, and the fire is burning clean with virtually no visible smoke. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's not there, I mean it's fire! Of course there's smoke. Over the course of 6 or 12 hours or whatever, the meat will pick up plenty of smoke and give you that pretty ring we all covet. I use lump charcoal just to get the fire going and a little to even out temperature fluctuations. Thanks guys. Happy cooking.


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## remmy700p

Remember, it's the GAS that permeates the protein layers and imparts the smoke flavor, not the combustion particles (what we see as SMOKE/SOOT)!!


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## fla-q

Oh.
Here it is only Tuesday and I already learned something. 
Quite interesting.


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## gary s

I Learn something everyday


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## susieqz

ha! now i get it. thanks for the lesson guys. i wondered why most folks here smoke hotter than i thot best.

if i had to add fuel every hour, i'd do that too.

maybe pellet smokers aren't all bad. i'm cookinga ham overnight. i'll have to feed every 2 1/2 hours, which is doable.

every hour wouldn't be.


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## monows

I have the oklahoma joes highlander which is a little smaller than the longhorn but not that much. I had a similar problem until I switched to the larger wood logs rather than chunks. Now im having to close dampners to lower the the heat instead of struggling to have enough heat. After using logs I will not use charcoal also soak the wood overnight your going to add to your fire.


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## fla-q

Nice and simple.


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## kvl505

There is a lot of good info on this site. I am trying out my new OK Joe Highlander.  It seems with mods on the OK Joe's Highlander most everyone curtails the heat from the FB to SC. When I tried that, it choked the fire and kept the temp too low. I only blocked it half way, with metal angled away like most photos. I took it out and the fire was fine and could be fairly easily controlled from the intake. I'll work on that more. As of now I do not intend to use the whole smoke chamber. Is it necessary? Any insight would be helpful.

The bigger problem to me seems everyone lowering the exhaust vent. I did that and for the first time and it over blackened my ribs, which is a first for me. If there is smoke in the chamber, it seems to me it would then build up and leave bad smoke from the chamber falling on the meat with the exhaust lowered. This would be opposed to smoke simply flowing over the meat and out.  Or does lowering the vent supposed to draw smoke away? Or is this just for temp control? I got 2 different answers on another thread. It's super easy either removing or lowering the additional vent. So which way works best is fine by me.


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## whiskeyboyz

I have never ever adjusted the exhaust stack. Leave it open all the way, its only purpose is to keep the rain out. offsets are like car engines they have to breathe to flow right. blocking off some heat and smoke allows you to regulate the chamber heat.


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## gary s

I am an RF stick burner but a couple of things ;   First  the damper on the stack should be wide open while smoking as previously said it keeps the rain and bugs out when not in use. I would NOT lower the stack to the grate level, as you said it doesn't work. The way a stack works at the grate level is an end mount stack with a plenum and that is usually attached either at the TOP grate level or midway between the top and bottom grate.

Gary


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## fla-q

kvl505 said:


> There is a lot of good info on this site. I am trying out my new OK Joe Highlander.  It seems with mods on the OK Joe's Highlander most everyone curtails the heat from the FB to SC. When I tried that, it choked the fire and kept the temp too low. I only blocked it half way, with metal angled away like most photos. I took it out and the fire was fine and could be fairly easily controlled from the intake. I'll work on that more. As of now I do not intend to use the whole smoke chamber. Is it necessary? Any insight would be helpful.
> 
> The bigger problem to me seems everyone lowering the exhaust vent. I did that and for the first time and it over blackened my ribs, which is a first for me. If there is smoke in the chamber, it seems to me it would then build up and leave bad smoke from the chamber falling on the meat with the exhaust lowered. This would be opposed to smoke simply flowing over the meat and out.  Or does lowering the vent supposed to draw smoke away? Or is this just for temp control? I got 2 different answers on another thread. It's super easy either removing or lowering the additional vent. So which way works best is fine by me.


Don't think of it as a smoke chamber. It's a cooking chamber. You're cooking with fire, not smoke. The smoke is a by product of the fire. Try to keep the smoke to a minimum by having a clean burning fire. That will give you the THIN blue smoke. Just mind your temps . Happy cooking.


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## kvl505

Thanks everyone for the information. It was useful. I am now running a clean fire. Like others have clearly pointed out, it just takes a little time to get an idea with slight adjustments with your particular smoker. I think that is called patience.


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## cman55

kvl505 said:


> Thanks everyone for the information. It was useful. I am now running a clean fire. Like others have clearly pointed out, it just takes a little time to get an idea with slight adjustments with your particular smoker. I think that is called patience.


Think of it like learning how to drive a stick instead of an automatic.. :)

Once you master damper control, your OKJ will serve you well for years to come. 

Smoke On!


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## valleypoboy

Big thanks to everyone in here for the shared improvements to this smoker.  I used "food grade" orange RTV between the upper and lower of the fire box, between the fire box and the cooking chamber and also in the tube of the exhaust port.  As others have done, I picked up a grate of expanded steel from my local big home improvement store.  I had to walk the store 3 times before asking someone where they were located :/.  Instead of using smaller sections, I got one big 24" x 24" piece then center marked it to 12" x 11", cut off the waste and folded up the sides, simple but effective:







For the smoke stack, I thought a 4 sided box would work better and take up less space in the cooking chamber.  I measured and cut some thin steel: 9" tall, 3" wide, and 3" deep and took it over to a friends house to weld it.  When I explained what I was doing, he outdid me.  10 minutes later he had cut a single piece of thicker steel and we were on his brake press folding it into this:














I'm considering adding a solid steel lip on my charcoal basket.

As a side note, this OJ Highland smoker was on clearance at Walmart for $199 marked down from $288.  I looked at it every other day for about 2 weeks and the day I finally pulled the trigger it had dropped down to $150.


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## adamstonad

I always recommend a BBQ guru to guys smoking with an Okie Joe. Mine has a 10 CFM fan and with all my mods, and giving time to come to temp,  I can leave it for up to 5 hours without adding fuel or checking the firebox.


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## adamstonad

Check out my video.


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## valleypoboy

adamstonad said:


> I always recommend a BBQ guru to guys smoking with an Okie Joe. Mine has a 10 CFM fan and with all my mods, and giving time to come to temp,  I can leave it for up to 5 hours without adding fuel or checking the firebox.




Thanks for the advice, I'm going to try a few more cooks with the mods I have now. I still plan on closing up the hole between the fire and cook chamber a little and sealing the top doors. I also like the idea of the baffled charcoal basket I saw somewhere, so I may build one of those.


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## daveomak

valleypoboy said:


> Thanks for the advice, I'm going to try a few more cooks with the mods I have now.* I still plan on closing up the hole between the fire and cook chamber a little *and sealing the top doors. I also like the idea of the baffled charcoal basket I saw somewhere, so I may build one of those.




If you close up the FB/CC opening.....  that will just keep heat in the FB and overheat it... and reduce the heat in the CC.... AND burn up more fuel.....


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## valleypoboy

[quote name="DaveOmak"]If you close up the FB/CC opening..... that will just keep heat in the FB and overheat it... and reduce the heat in the CC.... AND burn up more fuel.....[/quote]

I think I see what you're saying, if the hole is too small it reduces heat and I waste fuel. From my reading on this smoker, the opinions are that the FB/CC opening is too large and should be closed up a little bit though.  I intended to block off the top 1.5" to 2" of the hole with a plate of steel.  Right now I have a 6" plate on about a 45* angle going down to a foil covered brick.  The brick was just to raise the plate enough to get a decent angle so I wasn't choking the FB/CC opening.  I've also read a lot about using a thermal barrier like a large plate coming down on an angle from the hole to force the incoming to spread through the CC better.  Maybe I'm over thinking this too much and creating my own problems.  I'll try removing my makeshift thermal barrier and see how it performs.


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## valleypoboy

For those with a highland, not the longhorn I found that 18" is too long to use as a heat diffuser.  I cut about 2" off an 18"x12" sheet steel and it fits perfect, sits right against the walls of the barrel around 3" below the cooking surface.  My sheet was thin enough I could still bend it, so i gave it a little bend on the end near the FB so it sticks just over the top of the opening.  It's still a work in progress, it has no holes and it's only 12" long.


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## rhaugle

valleypoboy said:


> For those with a highland, not the longhorn I found that 18" is too long to use as a heat diffuser. I cut about 2" off an 18"x12" sheet steel and it fits perfect, sits right against the walls of the barrel around 3" below the cooking surface. My sheet was thin enough I could still bend it, so i gave it a little bend on the end near the FB so it sticks just over the top of the opening. It's still a work in progress, it has no holes and it's only 12" long.


Im working on getting my Highland set up, can you post of picture of your baffle? How do you like the square smoke stack/box extension?


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## whiskeyboyz

[ATTACHMENT=2489]MisterBaffler4.pdf (1,296k. pdf file)[/ATTACHMENT]
Offset smokers are much like a car engine. They have to breathe. Always] leave the stack fully open for exhaust and adjust the temp by opening the intake damper. Use 100% lump charcoal, it burns hotter and produces less ash. Also raise the charcoal grid up in the firebox. Just things I have learned.

Also check out Mr. Baffler at www.kickassbbqsouth.com. Proven to deflect heat and smoke into the cooking chamber and even out temps.
[ATTACHMENT=2490]MisterBaffler3.pdf (760k. pdf file)[/ATTACHMENT


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## valleypoboy

Hasn't been cleaned... don't judge me













20160103_142918.jpg



__ valleypoboy
__ Jan 3, 2016


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## steviesmoker

I too have an Okie Joe (Highland) and found it works much better after several of the mods.  I added the dryer vent (90 degree elbow) to lower the intake to the stack to just above the grates.  I sealed all the edges where I was losing smoke using a high temp food grade sealant and installed a baffle plate that is made right here in Oklahoma (just can't remember who I bought it from (sorry).  You can find several of these on line.  Just Google baffle plate for Oklahoma Joe smokers.  I seem to have good results using a chimney starter for the charcoal and once that is going good I put my wood (split pecan mostly) on and let that get real good and hot before starting any meat.  Still have to add some wood during a long smoke but it does maintain an pretty even temp once it's going.


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## kishinevetz

Hello great-smoking-minds!

So, I fired up my grill first time, after I seasoned it last week.  My thermometer is showing 260 at the further end from fire box.  My stack is wide open, and the fire box is maybe 1/4" opened to allow some air into fire-box...

How do you lower temperature?  :-)


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## daveomak

Kishinevetz said:


> Hello great-smoking-minds!
> 
> So, I fired up my grill first time, after I seasoned it last week.  My thermometer is showing 260 at the further end from fire box.  My stack is wide open, and the fire box is maybe 1/4" opened to allow some air into fire-box...
> 
> How do you lower temperature?  :-)


Close the FB air inlet to maybe 1/8" open....   Then for more air flow, open the upper air inlet on the FB to 1/4 or 1/2 open...  that should also cool the CC down....













FIREBOX Theory.jpg



__ daveomak
__ Jul 26, 2016


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## kishinevetz

Hmmm...tried that still temp was around 260.  My guess would be too much charcoal.  Will try using more actual wood and less charcoal. Will try to control temp this way. Hopefully will work.  
Also: have you heard of anyone using floor tiles and not metal plates to equally distribute heat along the smoker?  Any health hazard to using tiles?


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## daveomak

Kishinevetz said:


> Hmmm...tried that still temp was around 260. My guess would be too much charcoal. Will try using more actual wood and less charcoal. Will try to control temp this way. Hopefully will work.
> Also: have you heard of anyone using floor tiles and not metal plates to equally distribute heat along the smoker? Any health hazard to using tiles?


Pics of your FB and CC would help...  I think you have some design issues... The fire should go out when the air inlets are closed....


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## kishinevetz

DaveOmak said:


> Close the FB air inlet to maybe 1/8" open....   Then for more air flow, open the upper air inlet on the FB to 1/4 or 1/2 open...  that should also cool the CC down....
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will take pics and post as soon as I can.  What about using floor tiles as a way to disperse heat/smoke instead of metal plates like most are suggesting


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## kishinevetz

Kishinevetz said:


> will take pics and post as soon as I can.  What about using floor tiles as a way to disperse heat/smoke instead of metal plates like most are suggesting


. So lesson learned: type of "fuel" significantly affects temperature. Last time I was using briquettes: temperature was too high.  Today I used charcoal hard wood:  perfect.  Temp was at 230 with practically no involvement.  
But going back to my other question: if I can't get a hold of metal plates to create better temperature disbursement can I use floor tilled and drill holes in them from small to large? Any health risks? Or side effects to smoking?


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## jphelan486

Make a charcoal basket or raise the grate and get a bbq guru to keep the temp where you want it


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## jphelan486

seal up the fire box and the smoke chamber for better control, they will suck air in from the openings on the fire box and loose heat on the smoke chamber


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## cksteele

Hi new to the forums I bought highlander off kijiji.luckily the guy I bought it off made some of these mods  (seals on the door baffle plate)so temp controll isn't much of an issue. but for me I burn 100% wood in mine white oak,I put some fire bricks in the firebox and I I use lump charcoal to start it then feed the wood chunks into it.I can stay at 275 on the dot for the entire cook I find smaller chunks really give a real good temp controll.and after a couple times using it you get into a rythem of when you need to throw a chunk or 2on it. requires more attention then just charcoal but for me the results are worth it ! 













image.jpeg



__ cksteele
__ Aug 11, 2016


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## hardcookin

cksteele said:


> Hi new to the forums I bought highlander off kijiji.luckily the guy I bought it off made some of these mods  (seals on the door baffle plate)so temp controll isn't much of an issue. but for me I burn 100% wood in mine white oak,I put some fire bricks in the firebox and I I use lump charcoal to start it then feed the wood chunks into it.I can stay at 275 on the dot for the entire cook I find smaller chunks really give a real good temp controll.and after a couple times using it you get into a rythem of when you need to throw a chunk or 2on it. requires more attention then just charcoal but for me the results are worth it !
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> __ Aug 11, 2016



Sounds like you got it figured out. Thumbs Up
Like you mentioned after awhile it just becomes second nature when to throw a split on, and how big of a split to maintain your temp.
Enjoy your new smoker!


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## micheto

Fla-q said:


>


Hello
I tried to keep the fire clean in the smoker but the temperature was high and I closed the valve to 1/4 the temperature became normal but there was no clean  fire and there was a lot of smoke and the ribs were bitter! Please help me deal with this?
Thank you and Regards


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## anvil

Did you close the intake or the exhaust? Did you close it only 1/4 so 3/4 open, or close it so it was only 1/4 open. I have an OKJ highland I have found that if I start adjusting the intake it takes about 30 minutes to come down to temp and by that time I need to add more coal so I'm back where I started. I have been using the clean out door as my intake instead of the slider.


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## fla-q

micheto said:


> Hello
> 
> I tried to keep the fire clean in the smoker but the temperature was high and I closed the valve to 1/4 the temperature became normal but there was no clean fire and there was a lot of smoke and the ribs were bitter! Please help me deal with this?
> 
> Thank you and Regards


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## cksteele

micheto said:


> Hello
> I tried to keep the fire clean in the smoker but the temperature was high and I closed the valve to 1/4 the temperature became normal but there was no clean  fire and there was a lot of smoke and the ribs were bitter! Please help me deal with this?
> Thank you and Regards


what was the temp when you closed the valves to 1/4?    sounds like you cut off the airflow and the wood was smouldering that bitter  taste is creosote..  i know for  me id rather open the cook chamber door to release some temp then cut the airflow and kill the fire


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## micheto

cksteele said:


> what was the temp when you closed the valves to 1/4?    sounds like you cut off the airflow and the wood was smouldering that bitter  taste is creosote..  i know for  me id rather open the cook chamber door to release some temp then cut the airflow and kill the fire


The temperature was about 275 when I closed the valves at 1/4.
Should there be a constant burning fire not to smoulder ?
  In your opinion, what is better to have fire burning in the fire box or just hot charcoal?
Thank you for the help!


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## cksteele

micheto said:


> The temperature was about 275 when I closed the valves at 1/4.
> Should there be a constant burning fire not to smoulder ?
> In your opinion, what is better to have fire burning in the fire box or just hot charcoal?
> Thank you for the help!


well  nothing wrong with cooking BBQ at 275  i cook  anywhere  between 250-275 on my Oklahoma Joe. fire is not a bad thing if you're using  charcoal as your heat source  and wood chunks to add  smoke  or wood  for heat and smoke.  you wanna burn the wood  not smoulder it clean combustion  gives you the nice  smoke your looking for   here is my firebox  in my joe













firebox.jpg



__ cksteele
__ Jun 6, 2017






 here is my firebox i use ceramic bricks in it for heat retention  and to burn on vs the bare metal so it doesnt burn out  the bottom of the firebox 













smoker starter 1.JPG



__ cksteele
__ Jun 6, 2017






 i add  the hot coals  as a base  then add  splits of  wood 













smoker starter 3.JPG



__ cksteele
__ Jun 6, 2017






 i let the first stack of wood burn down and heat up the  smoker, then i add  wood  splits as needed  to keep the temp up  you get into a rhythm.  eventually you understand the when the fire needs more  wood.  but i cook  the whole time  with  flames  like this  and   i  keep the ash door wide open.  i dont even bother with  the  little sliding door  you want as  much oxygen in the fire as possible  now if you're using charcoal  its a little different but the same principle hope this helps you with your  smoking adventures


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## micheto

cksteele said:


> well  nothing wrong with cooking BBQ at 275  i cook  anywhere  between 250-275 on my Oklahoma Joe. fire is not a bad thing if you're using  charcoal as your heat source  and wood chunks to add  smoke  or wood  for heat and smoke.  you wanna burn the wood  not smoulder it clean combustion  gives you the nice  smoke your looking for   here is my firebox  in my joe
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> __ Jun 6, 2017
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> __ cksteele
> __ Jun 6, 2017
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> i let the first stack of wood burn down and heat up the  smoker, then i add  wood  splits as needed  to keep the temp up  you get into a rhythm.  eventually you understand the when the fire needs more  wood.  but i cook  the whole time  with  flames  like this  and   i  keep the ash door wide open.  i dont even bother with  the  little sliding door  you want as  much oxygen in the fire as possible  now if you're using charcoal  its a little different but the same principle hope this helps you with your  smoking adventures


Thank you very much for the useful information and the time!
But is it possible for some photos of your modification?


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## cksteele

micheto said:


> Thank you very much for the useful information and the time!
> But is it possible for some photos of your modification?


 no problem! always  glad to help in anyway i can ! 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






    here is the stack addition i put in the smoker just a metal duct i picked up at lowes  and  the  deflector plate was added by the guy i bought it from  plus ive shown the creamic fire bricks  i put in the firebox  in the pics above  you can find those at a  masonry  store or even at lowes home depot etc 













smoker mod1.JPG



__ cksteele
__ Jun 7, 2017


















smoker mod 2.JPG



__ cksteele
__ Jun 7, 2017


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## micheto

cksteele said:


> no problem! always  glad to help in anyway i can !
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> __ cksteele
> __ Jun 7, 2017


Thanks a lot for useful information and your attention.
And I also want to ask you which one you think is the best method: monion method or clear fire?


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## cksteele

micheto said:


> Thanks a lot for useful information and your attention.
> And I also want to ask you which one you think is the best method: monion method or clear fire?


well it depends on what you wanna do really  nothing wrong w  the minion  its a great system i use it for my WSM  smoker  to make sausage if you wanna use charcoal i know  lots  of guys use a  firebox  like this 

 













smoke box.jpg



__ cksteele
__ Jun 8, 2017


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