# ERR 2 with my MES 40



## hlsrtony (Oct 28, 2016)

My MES 40 is throwing an ERR2 as soon as I turn it on and select "Set Temperature".. it beeps, error goes away and I continue to enter temp and time. Heat light then comes on but it does not heat.

Looking for any ideas prior to getting a new one (definitely not a Masterbuilt though).

Thank

Tony


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## inf3st (Nov 1, 2016)

I would call masterbuilt. They are pretty good about helping even if the warranty is up. You never know.


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## andypanda (Nov 3, 2016)

Wow. This exact thing happened to me yesterday with my MES40. The ERR2 started a couple of smokes ago on mine. I thought it was just the meat probe was spent. Then yesterday I turned the smoker on, hit set temp, got ERR2 like I had before. I set the temp to 275* and it heated up to @ 130* and then temp decreased back down to air temp. I saw the 'heating' light was on but the burner was cool...

I hope to break it down this weekend and see if it can be repaired. I hear that Masterbuilt wont sell the burner as a part now. Least that's what I read online...I also saw on you-tube the wires to the burner have a tendency to break down and lose contact...Hopefully its a simple fix.

Ill let you know what I see when I get some time to look it over...Bad timing for this for me....


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## cmayna (Nov 3, 2016)

If you google  "masterbuilt err2"  you will find a couple links to discussions.  With what I'm reading, it might be simply a loose or contaminated connection between the wires crimped to the heating element.  Then again, it might be something way more involved like with the controller.  I personally would look at the wire connection to element just to eliminate that possibility.

Maybe someone with hands on experience to this issue will chime in.


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## andypanda (Nov 4, 2016)

Ok, Got a few mins to take a look, and sure enough it was one of the connectors to the heating element had basically disintegrated.

Looking at the back panel of your smoker it is the small cover at the bottom. 6 screws and a thin rubber gasket that peeled off. There are 2 well insulated wire connections. Both look a little charred and compromised. One of mine was disintegrated where it was just touching the heating element connection. I touched it and pieces just crumbled away. I picked the rest of the rust and chunks off the wire and used a small wire brush to clean off the paddle to the heating element.

Gotta run to the h-ware store for a new paddle connector to crimp to the wire. I also plan to get some shrink-tube to slip over the connection and an inch or so up the wire for good air and moisture free connection.

I thought about tearing apart the other connection and rebuilding it but I think I will wait..I dunno...don't wanna push my luck...

Happy to hear any other electrical recommendations for redoing this connection. Will the shrink wrap be enough insulation?

Ill post back after I get the parts and finish the fix...


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## dr k (Nov 5, 2016)

CAM00866.jpg



__ dr k
__ Nov 5, 2016






Strip rubber off of back plate and stretch over screw heads so I can rip it off and reinstall quickly to inspect when unplugged before my next smoke so no future dilemmas.  Once bitten twice shy so to speak.  I make these and mail them to SMF members with this exact problem.  You can wire nut the pigtail setup in the pic above or solder and shrink tube like I did to the MB leads.  PM me if you want a couple. No problem I like doing this kinda thing.

-Kurt


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## hlsrtony (Nov 7, 2016)

Thanks for all the replies, AndyPanda when I looked mine was exactly as you described. Cleaned the paddle, crimped a new connector on and all is working. It still throws a Err2 upon power on but otherwise heats up, shuts on off at temperature and I am good to go. 10 minutes fix with a $0.10 part.

Annoys me that I did not just dive in as I am a tinkerer but have had so much trouble with this smoker and I was entertaining that day and all my food plans were in the smoker that day.

I may have one more crimp and clean in the unit before the heating element falls apart.

Thanks again


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## bird731713 (Nov 8, 2016)

jumping around trying to get some one to help. Ordered a new control board for my older Gen 2. Now the older ones have 3 plugs a 5 wire a 3 wire and a two wire. my new control board has a 5 wire and two 2 wire plugs which I'm told all the newer ones have.

 The part supplier says they distribute the parts for MB and they told them to print on the invoice to call tech support to learn how to hook the new 2 wire to the old 3 wire.

 I did and the tech had no idea what I was talking about. He told me I would have to buy a new smoker because the parts for the old GEN 2 are no longer available.

 But apparently there is a fix. has anyone had this problem and could tell me how to connect the wires?

 Oh well, what do you expect from a smoker made in China


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## old sarge (Nov 9, 2016)

bird731713 - IF you decide to buy a new smoker, be sure to look over the line from Smokin-it, in addition to looking at the MES.  Smokin-it is more expensive but rock solid and dependable.  I am very impressed with the quality and performance.


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## andypanda (Nov 10, 2016)

Hi All. Just getting a chance to report back. The fix worked just like described above however I also still get an ERR2 when I turn on the unit.

The 2nd connection cracked apart while I was fixing the first so it was rebuilt as well. I crimped on a paddle connector tested the fit, slipped on some shrink-wrap to cover the wire connection and to extend down past the end of the paddle to cover the heating element contacts heated shrink-wrap up with a mini-torch and insulated and weatherproofed the connections.

Overall easy fix and now the unit is much-much faster to come to temp and I get good smoke from the smoketray.

Let the beast eat!!!


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## cmayna (Nov 10, 2016)

Awesome.  Glad it's back up and running.


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## rpfutrell (Oct 23, 2021)

I know this thread is 5 years old, but it was insightful to the exact problem I am having on my MB20073519  The only problem is that none of the solutions worked for me. 

I did leave it out in a few good rainstorms. So I only have myself to blame.  I suppose the heat elements are completely gone.
 I opened the covers made sure everything dry, solid connection, and still getting Err2


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## dr k (Oct 23, 2021)

rpfutrell said:


> I know this thread is 5 years old, but it was insightful to the exact problem I am having on my MB20073519  The only problem is that none of the solutions worked for me.
> 
> I did leave it out in a few good rainstorms. So I only have myself to blame.  I suppose the heat elements are completely gone.
> I opened the covers made sure everything dry, solid connection, and still getting Err2


I believe I get the err2 from the meat probe two pin connector on the rear controller. I disconnect and bring it inside to keep it dry from condensing humidity. Sometimes it's fine if not then reconnecting for a solid connection.  Pins slide in the connector and can get pushed back so I push them all the way in and glued the back of the connector and wires so pins are fully inserted and can't back out no more err2.


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## Helen Ivy (Nov 23, 2021)

inf3st said:


> I would call masterbuilt. They are pretty good about helping even if the warranty is up. You never know.


I find Masterbuilt to be SPECTACULARLY unhelpful myself. I tried for weeks to get their attention for my earlier issue. I got Error 2 and I've used it less than 5 times, hasn't been in the rain.


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## dr k (Nov 24, 2021)

Go to their page on FB and messenger them. This is quickest to get a response. Have your receipt/order/model # picture and case # if you have one and send them. Mention any contact name you've been working with.


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## Helen Ivy (Nov 24, 2021)

I have spent HOURS in the past trying to get them to address my issue. They just send me the same video over and over. At one point they said that someone would call me, but that never happened. I repeatedly messaged with the same person on the app and I also went back and forth with them over email for WEEKS. They did not feel like dealing with my issue so they did not. They didn't care.


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 2, 2021)

This is looking like the same runaround I am getting. Bought my third MB unit, this one a MES40G bluetooth electric upright smoker. 3 hours into my 6-hr turkey smoke, I went to baste the bird and am presented with this ERR 2 display which, regardless of my actions, would not clear, preventing me from knowing if the thing was still on, holding temp, time nothing. Unplugging didn't help as immediately upon reconnecting to the AC showed this error and nothing would clear it from the display. The only thing I could find on error codes for MB smokers says something about the temp probe. The only troubleshooting suggested was to inspect the leads to determine if they were burnt or otherwise damaged. The inside of that particular compartment was pristine. The actual probe appears to be damaged, but unplugging that from the controller failed to resolve anything.

Of course, you can't get a human being to answer the customer service line. ll you get is instruction to fill out some online support request. Today I was  delivered a useless message stating they were closing my request because it appears my unit is out of warranty and here's a parts page to find replacement parts. But as to speaking with someone to find the path out of this  error code overriding any use, basically a "Go F... yourself. We don't really give a damn."

I was seriously considering moving to one of their Gravity Units. Now, not so much.


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 2, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> This is looking like the same runaround I am getting. Bought my third MB unit, this one a MES40G bluetooth electric upright smoker. 3 hours into my 6-hr turkey smoke, I went to baste the bird and am presented with this ERR 2 display which, regardless of my actions, would not clear, preventing me from knowing if the thing was still on, holding temp, time nothing. Unplugging didn't help as immediately upon reconnecting to the AC showed this error and nothing would clear it from the display. The only thing I could find on error codes for MB smokers says something about the temp probe. The only troubleshooting suggested was to inspect the leads to determine if they were burnt or otherwise damaged. The inside of that particular compartment was pristine. The actual probe appears to be damaged, but unplugging that from the controller failed to resolve anything.
> 
> Of course, you can't get a human being to answer the customer service line. ll you get is instruction to fill out some online support request. Today I was  delivered a useless message stating they were closing my request because it appears my unit is out of warranty and here's a parts page to find replacement parts. But as to speaking with someone to find the path out of this  error code overriding any use, basically a "Go F... yourself. We don't really give a damn."
> 
> I was seriously considering moving to one of their Gravity Units. Now, not so much.



EXACTLY my experience TO THE LETTER! 

I have emailed me and constantly got that "we are closing your request" EVEN THOUGH I WAS STILL IN WARRANTY. THE UNIT WAS BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX. Many times I used the bot that's in the app and on the website, and that person refused to help me. I was told either by that person who is behind the bot, or via email. that I would get a phone call. I NEVER got the phone call. THIS WENT ON FOR WEEKS. Also, they kept sending me the same video in lieu of actually dealing with my question.

Now I have the same error message as you. I have used the smoker three times, new out of the box. It says the temp probe. I don't use the temp probe at all since I smoke pieces of salmon. It says something about the leads being damaged but this unit is NEW OUT OF THE BOX. 

I would recommend that people NEVER BUY A MASTERBUILT PRODUCT. I WILL NEVER BUY MASTERBUILT EVER AGAIN, despite the fact that it is the main brand sold at my local Lowe's. I will drive elsewhere and buy a different brand. DO NOT BUY MASTERBUILT. THEY CLAIM TO HAVE CUSTOMER SERVICE, BUT THEY DON'T GIVE A WHIT ABOUT HELPING CUSTOMERS. They are awful. I went back and forth with them for WEEKS. They brushed me off and went back and forth with me for WEEKS rather than just help me in the first place. Their main occupation at Customer Service, whether via email or via the bot on the app or website is to spend their time refusing to deal with or help customers. They put an enormous amount of energy into NOT helping me. It could have been solved with ONE CALL, ONE PERSON taking ten minutes or less to deal with my issue. THAT NEVER HAPPENS. They do not care at all. Instead of helping customers via email or the bot on the app/website, MASTERBUILT WOULD RATHER EMPLY PEOPLE TO SPEND A HUGE AMOUNT OF TIME AND ENERGY DODGING CUSTOMER SERVICE ISSUES.


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## dr k (Dec 2, 2021)

I bring the controller inside in between smokes and got the err2 meat probe error. I checked the pins on both wire connectors and one from the two pin meat probe connector was loose and wanted to back out of the connector. I pushed the pins into the connectors and glued the back of the two female and two male connectors to the wire insulation so they can't be pushed back while connecting. No problems the rest of the summer. Maybe heating and cooling. Or something created a loose pin. Worth a check. Not much lead on the two pin coming out of the smoker to work with vs the five pin in the pic.


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## bill1 (Dec 2, 2021)

I think ERR2 just means it's not getting to temp soon enough.  

Bad connections to the heating element (so it's not getting hot _at all_) was the problem for the original poster 5 years ago.  
It's frequently bad connections to the factory temp probe, ie it doesn't _know _it's getting hot.  Some have fixed that issue by tweaking the probe connections.  What is the controller reading for temp?  If it's lower than actual, there's the issue.  
But sometimes you're just not getting to temp quickly enough, partic if you have a lot of meat or cookwear soaking up the thermal energy.  (And it is starting to get chilly!)  In which case some folks recommend blowing a hair dryer or heat gun at the probe so it thinks things are warmer than they really are.  
One of those 3 fixes usually does the trick.


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## dr k (Dec 3, 2021)

Masterbuilt Smoker Error Codes [Reasons + Solutions]
					

Masterbuilt smoker error codes- error code 1 means temperature probe is not plugged in fully, error code 2 means meat probe malfunctioning.




					fireplacehubs.com
				



Read down to error code 2 and says it's the meat probe like mine issue and the pin was loose. Says first to check the element lugs and replace if bad and if ok then call MB. My lugs were fine and the pin was the problem. Don't know how the meat probe is tied to the element circuit but bad connectors some how throw the error 2 meat probe code. Read all five codes. The are for the gravity smoker as well so that has a plug in meat probe so that "make sure it's pushed in" doesn't apply with Mes.


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 6, 2021)

Well, it seems that they actually pay attention to complaints to their Facebook page. I Messengered my complaint along with my disappointment at being summarily blown off and received a reply informing me they were addressing my concern back to the proper department, along with an apology that this had occurred. Later the same day I received a new email suggesting that either the custom smoke probe or the body probe would be responsible for the error 2 code. Instructed to remove the cover on the lower left side of the back of the unit and to disconnect the blue connector. Plug the unit back in and see if the error code went away. If yes, then the Custom Smoke Probe needs to be replaced. if not,then the body probe is faulty.

Disconnecting this blue connector cleared the error code. So now I need to  order a replacement unit. Hopefully it will come with some diagrams to show how to replace this probe and where, exactly, it is, as the manual that came with the smoker is woefully deficient for such. I don't even know where this probe is, let alone how the wiring is routed into the rear of the unit. However, I am still getting GFI Outlet tripping whenever the unit is active. I am hoping this will be resolved once all the Christmas lights are out of the circuit.

Apparantly, the internal/external meat probe (on my unit, there are 4 ports on the controller to plug in up to 4 probes that penetrate the cabinet thru grommetted  holes) had nothing to do with this error code as dr k suggested is the case for the gravity units. That is not to say I am disputing his comment. Disconnecting my device from my controller didn't seem to have any effect.

Point is, I guess, they do  actually monitor their Facebook page. It's too bad that the only viable means to get somebody to communicate with is thru FB Messenger. But, at the moment, that seems to be the best way to initiate a dialog with them.

Thank you for the suggestions, and for allowing me a means to vent. Someone here had suggested the Facebook option. I am glad I still have a viable smoker as I really wasn't ready to throw this 2-yr old $700 box in the trash.


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## tallbm (Dec 6, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> Well, it seems that they actually pay attention to complaints to their Facebook page. I Messengered my complaint along with my disappointment at being summarily blown off and received a reply informing me they were addressing my concern back to the proper department, along with an apology that this had occurred. Later the same day I received a new email suggesting that either the custom smoke probe or the body probe would be responsible for the error 2 code. Instructed to remove the cover on the lower left side of the back of the unit and to disconnect the blue connector. Plug the unit back in and see if the error code went away. If yes, then the Custom Smoke Probe needs to be replaced. if not,then the body probe is faulty.
> 
> Disconnecting this blue connector cleared the error code. So now I need to  order a replacement unit. Hopefully it will come with some diagrams to show how to replace this probe and where, exactly, it is, as the manual that came with the smoker is woefully deficient for such. I don't even know where this probe is, let alone how the wiring is routed into the rear of the unit. However, I am still getting GFI Outlet tripping whenever the unit is active. I am hoping this will be resolved once all the Christmas lights are out of the circuit.
> 
> ...



Hi there and welcome!

Whatever you do please read the post below and do not throw the MES40 in the trash haha.
In short you can do a simple rewire (cut the ends off 4 wires and wire nut together to make 2 wires) and you can then run a PID controller. 
The PID controller runs about $150 HOWEVER its like converting your current MES40 from a golf cart into a Ferrari!

The major strength of the MES units is the body and construction, they nail it here!
The weakness is the crappy cheap electrical connectors for the wiring and their electronics themselves.

If you rewire you bypass their electronics and controller and the MES plug will feed power to straight to the heating element.
The PID controller will plug into the wall and feed power on/off until the set temp is hit and then the PID will hold that temp right on or within 1-2 degrees of that set temp.
The PID controller has a temp probe that you drop into the MES so it can read the temps and cut power on/off to the MES.

Pretty simple and man it makes things awesome!  No temp swings.  Never fail to hit your temp.  Tight control so no fear of melting fat out of sausage or bacon.  Plus more benefits!

I know this may be a lot to throw at you but in a nutshell, you have an option that makes your MES way better than anything Masterbuilt makes brand new and it's way less expensive then buying a brand new smoker especially when the MES is amazing with it's physical construction and temp holding characteristics :)

I hope this info helps, and see below for a very detailed write up on how to rewire an MES for using with a PID :)








						MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!
					

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES.  I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance.  Well here goes.  Disclaimer:  When messing with electrical equipment...




					www.smokingmeatforums.com


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 6, 2021)

Well, after several back and forths with the MB support person, it turns out that the actual temp probe for the custom smoke element cannot be had from them as this smoker is obsolete and the no longer carry replacement parts. The thing is 2 years old, for crimony's sake. But, she gave me a part number to search for at  www.appliancefactoryparts.com . Unfortunately, the part number provided, 9907180070, is the heating element, without the damn probe. And after some tunneling I finally found the part number for the probe itself. 9907180093. All the places that list the part are out of stock. It seems I actually have a useless $700 piece of yard art.


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## 912smoker (Dec 6, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> It seems I actually have a useless $700 piece of yard art.






Wait....you paid $700 for an MES ? Where did you purchase this unit ?


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 6, 2021)

I communicated back and forth with Masterbuilt FOR WEEKS, both via email and with the person behind their bot on the website and app.

They kept saying they would help me but then kept saying they would close the ticket. they said I would get a call and the call never came. 

I just spent $140 to have the Error 2 looked at and the guy declared the unit unfixable. I got it new out of the box over the summer and it is the beg of December. The unit worked 2.5 times. Now it is junk and landfill.

Masterbuilt was NO HELP when I was trying to bluetooth the unit. They just kept messaging me SOME UNITS CANNOT BE BLUETOOTHED and sending me the same two minute video that didn't even correspond to my unit. THEY REFUSED TO HELP ME OVER THE COURSE OF WEEKS. 

Now that this is a different problem, I am not going to bother with them. They won't help me if the unit is totally broken. I can spend WEEKS finding that out or I can just not waste so much more of my time waiting for the assistance, or phone call, that never comes although promised.



IronDogJCH said:


> Well, it seems that they actually pay attention to complaints to their Facebook page. I Messengered my complaint along with my disappointment at being summarily blown off and received a reply informing me they were addressing my concern back to the proper department, along with an apology that this had occurred. Later the same day I received a new email suggesting that either the custom smoke probe or the body probe would be responsible for the error 2 code. Instructed to remove the cover on the lower left side of the back of the unit and to disconnect the blue connector. Plug the unit back in and see if the error code went away. If yes, then the Custom Smoke Probe needs to be replaced. if not,then the body probe is faulty.
> 
> Disconnecting this blue connector cleared the error code. So now I need to  order a replacement unit. Hopefully it will come with some diagrams to show how to replace this probe and where, exactly, it is, as the manual that came with the smoker is woefully deficient for such. I don't even know where this probe is, let alone how the wiring is routed into the rear of the unit. However, I am still getting GFI Outlet tripping whenever the unit is active. I am hoping this will be resolved once all the Christmas lights are out of the circuit.
> 
> ...


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 6, 2021)

912smoker said:


> Wait....you paid $700 for an MES ? Where did you purchase this unit ?


Bought at local Cabellas, Nov 2019 for $682


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 6, 2021)

tallbm said:


> Hi there and welcome!
> 
> Whatever you do please read the post below and do not throw the MES40 in the trash haha.
> In short you can do a simple rewire (cut the ends off 4 wires and wire nut together to make 2 wires) and you can then run a PID controller.
> ...


Thanks for the detailed fix. I'll look into that.


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 6, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> I communicated back and forth with Masterbuilt FOR WEEKS, both via email and with the person behind their bot on the website and app.
> 
> They kept saying they would help me but then kept saying they would close the ticket. they said I would get a call and the call never came.
> 
> ...


I can tell you that using their FB Messenger page got a response both times within the day.

Masterbuilt FB page

As for Bluetooth, I have found that it typically only works line-of-site for me. I step around a corner and connection is lost.


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## tallbm (Dec 6, 2021)

H
 Helen Ivy
 hi there and welcome!  I wish you had found us before you tossed the MES.
The PID replacement would have converted it into the best electric smoker you could have for the money hands down.


I
 IronDogJCH
 keep on researching as needed.  If you want to join the PID club let me us know.  I honestly wouldn't fool around with MB knowing that what are you getting in the end would not come close to what you could convert it into :)

No matter what though, do what you know will make you happy.  That is the most important thing :)


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 6, 2021)

I have not tossed it, but today I engaged a repair person who tried the fixes recommended on this thread and he said he could not fix it.  I am a do it yourselfer but not with appliance repair.

I am not sure what you are talking about. 



tallbm said:


> H
> Helen Ivy
> hi there and welcome!  I wish you had found us before you tossed the MES.
> The PID replacement would have converted it into the best electric smoker you could have for the money hands down.
> ...


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## tallbm (Dec 6, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> I have not tossed it, but today I engaged a repair person who tried the fixes recommended on this thread and he said he could not fix it.  I am a do it yourselfer but not with appliance repair.
> 
> I am not sure what you are talking about.




Ok nice to hear you still have it.

This thread has lots of details concerning doing the simple rewire of an MES to use with a PID Controller.






						MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!
					

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES.  I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance.  Well here goes.  Disclaimer:  When messing with electrical equipment...




					www.smokingmeatforums.com
				





In short the rewire cuts the ends off 4 wires and then those ends are spliced together to make 2 new wires.
At this point the MES will feed power from the plug to the heating element.  The rewire bypasses all of the electronics in the MES.

Because the MES is now dumb and will feed heat to the heating element if plugged in, the idea is to now use a different controller that will take power from the outlet/wall and feed it to the MES plug which leads to the MES simply heating up.

The new controller will then manage cutting power on/off to the MES by reading the temp inside the MES with a probe and the controller will hit and hold the temp you entered into the controller.

This controller I'm talking about is known as a PID controller.  Here is one here:





						Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
					

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...



					www.auberins.com
				




Going this route bypasses all the horrible Masterbuilt probes and electronics and allows for a much better controlled and performing smoker.  

This is a lot of info to absorb so please ask all the questions you have if this is something that interests you.  Know the best MES in the world is a free or cheapo one converted this way :)


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 6, 2021)

I would have to hire someone to do this since it's beyond my scope, and there is no guarantee that this will fix the issue my unit is having. Today I spent $140 and was told it could not be fixed. The part you suggest is an expensive part at $150. I was told moisture caused the Error 2. I would be happy to have someone attempt to fix it and I will happily pay them if it is in fact fixed. But I don't plan to spend hundreds of dollars more on a maybe.


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## postmeister (Dec 6, 2021)

First you do the rewire as tallbm suggested,this will cost you nothing but 10 minutes of your time. If after you rewired and plugged it in and the unit heated up, you're on the right track to get the PID. Chances are your safety roll out is good, I wouldn't go there to keep this simple.


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## cmayna (Dec 7, 2021)

Helen Ivy, what part of this country do you reside in?  If you were around the corner from me, I'd give you a hand to get your smoker up and going via PID


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## tallbm (Dec 7, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> I would have to hire someone to do this since it's beyond my scope, and there is no guarantee that this will fix the issue my unit is having. Today I spent $140 and was told it could not be fixed. The part you suggest is an expensive part at $150. I was told moisture caused the Error 2. I would be happy to have someone attempt to fix it and I will happily pay them if it is in fact fixed. But I don't plan to spend hundreds of dollars more on a maybe.



I understand.

Being out of your scope, anyone you hire would have to understand what we are talking about here.  It is honestly as simple as cutting 4 wire ends and splicing to make 2 wires but any repair person you get to try will be clueless as to what we are talking about since they don't really know these machines.

Fixing it as it currently sits is not something I would suggest.   
You already had someone look at it and without replacement parts there was nothing they could do on top of the fact that they likely knew little to nothing about fixing it in the first place.  They should have given your money back if they really didn't understand the device or given you a discounted rated since it was likely they were walking in blind to begin with.  It's a bit unethical to charge someone full price for work you take on knowing you have no idea what the work could even be :)

Just know that as long as the heating element is good (rarely is it out or bad) that there is surely a way to convert it.
If anyone you know is handy with cutting and splicing wires then you may want to direct them to all of the information posted here and they can do like 
P
 postmeister
 suggests and take the 10 minutes to cut and splice those wires for you.
If you plug it into the wall after that and it starts to heat up you know it's working.  

Just don't leave it plugged in because it has no controller wired in and will heat up nonstop as long as plugged.
This is where the other controller would come into the mix if you wanted to go that route.  It cuts power on/off to the unit.

In any case if this is too much to fool with I'm sure someone nearby would love to take it off your hands cheap or free to do what we are discussing.  It's how I've gotten MES units for all of my family members that are rolling with rewired units and a PID controller :D


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 7, 2021)

I, too, am a salmon smoker!

I am in Southern California. I welcome any help, but I assume that you are far away. But thanks for offering!

Someone here suggested that I buy a heating element off Amazon or wherever and I can still use the smoker. I like that solution. Can someone explain it more clearly?



cmayna said:


> Helen Ivy, what part of this country do you reside in?  If you were around the corner from me, I'd give you a hand to get your smoker up and going via PID


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 7, 2021)

tallbm said:


> Ok nice to hear you still have it.
> 
> This thread has lots of details concerning doing the simple rewire of an MES to use with a PID Controller.
> 
> ...


Question. This mod removes the controller and turns the unit simply into a toaster. My question revolves around the separate wood-burning element. The controller, at present, allows you to vary the intensity of the smoke element from off to 5 with 5 being the highest.


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 7, 2021)

I have said repeatedly on this thread that I do not have the capacity to rewire it.

I already spent $140 to have someone try to repair it and he said that it cannot be repaired.

I am not going to sink any more money into repairs on spec. 

Someone talked about getting a heating element sold online and I would like to know more about that.

I really think that you need to recognize that most people do not have the capacity to fix wiring or rewire anything. Please stop acting like that is easy for someone who has never dealt with wiring, has no equipment, and is going to figure this out completely with no experience whatsoever over a website thread. It's extremely unrealistic and almost insulting.

QUOTE="IronDogJCH, post: 2279899, member: 240740"]
Question. This mod removes the controller and turns the unit simply into a toaster. My question revolves around the separate wood-burning element. The controller, at present, allows you to vary the intensity of the smoke element from off to 5 with 5 being the highest.
[/QUOTE]


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## tallbm (Dec 7, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> Question. This mod removes the controller and turns the unit simply into a toaster. My question revolves around the separate wood-burning element. The controller, at present, allows you to vary the intensity of the smoke element from off to 5 with 5 being the highest.



I looked on the masterbuilt website and couldn't find an MES40 that has a separate wood chip burning element.  No matter, electricity and heating elements are simple.

I have not personally looked at your model of smoker but my guess is that the current wiring runs power to that chip element just like the main heating element.
The dial switch is what controls it to be on and at what power level (1-5).

Not having torn one of those apart to investigate I would bet money you would be ok even with the rewire.
My other guess is that if they did any additional wiring for that chip element, that it would likely be wired in at the same spot where the simple rewire happens.
After all, the spot where the simple rewire happens is the area where power comes in from the power cord and is then distributed to all other areas of the MES.
If there are separate wires there for the chip element, you just wire nut splice them into rewire change you are already making.

In this case power would go from plug to heating element AND to chip element.
Here is a rough wiring diagram to give you the concept. It is literally this simple of a wiring:
	

		
			
		

		
	








Oh I almost forgot.  Even if you lose the wood chip burning element there is a far superior approach to provide smoke.  Almost all of us MES guys use it.

There is the A-Amaze-N Pellet Smoker (AMNPS) tray or tubes.
They burn wood pellets or wood dust to produce perfect Thin Blue Smoke with no fooling around with it once it's going!
The tray will produce smoke for up to 12 hours, again no fooling with it.  The tube is like 3-4 hours.
A bag of wood pellets lasts FOREVER so cost of wood is low.

So now you can abandon feeding chips every 30-45 minutes!!!!!
Want to smoke a pork butt or a whole packer brisket? Set it all up and let it go over night while you sleep.  Use a digital remote thermometer and set alarm to tell you when to check if the meat is tender and done, or to alert you if a flame up has happened and the smoker got too hot, or if the power or smoker is failing and the temp gets too low.  In any case you sleep and the alarm lets you know what to do next.

Guys who don't do the rewire still use an AMNPS.  You lose nothing if you lose the wood chip burning element so I wouldn't worry about it.  None of us have a wood chip burning element and we produce out of this world BBQ all the time.... in my case often while sleeping like a baby :D

Here is a picture of the AMNPS so you know what I'm talking about:


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## dr k (Dec 7, 2021)

tallbm said:


> I looked on the masterbuilt website and couldn't find an MES40 that has a separate wood chip burning element.  No matter, electricity and heating elements are simple.
> 
> I have not personally looked at your model of smoker but my guess is that the current wiring runs power to that chip element just like the main heating element.
> The dial switch is what controls it to be on and at what power level (1-5).
> ...


Mes 440S and 430S. On amazon the 40 is unavailable and a person was looking for a new wood chip/chunck burner sensor. MB said they don't have the part and to look at factory parts because this newer Mes is now obsolete. Wonderful. 
Masterbuilt MES 440S Bluetooth Digital Electric Smoker, 40"


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## tallbm (Dec 7, 2021)

dr k said:


> Mes 440S and 430S. On amazon the 40 is unavailable and a person was looking for a new wood chip/chunck burner sensor. MB said they don't have the part and to look at factory parts because this newer Mes is now obsolete. Wonderful.
> Masterbuilt MES 440S Bluetooth Digital Electric Smoker, 40"


Thanks 

 dr k
 I just looked at it on amazon.

I'd abandon that little wood burning element nightmare of an idea and just wire that elemnt into the heating element rewire hahaha.  Doing so would give 1350W of heating element overall.  
I'd remove all but the top cover of the houseing for it.

Then I'd get a 3"inch hole saw and cut a hole into the door of that thing and make a mailbox mod + AMNPS and be off to the races.

What seems really troubling to me is that I couldn't find it on Masterbuilt's site under the "400" series section.  I'm guessing they are done with it and it is discontinued so I would simplify the thing so that it ran forever just like we are suggesting now :D


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## Brokenhandle (Dec 7, 2021)

Too bad everyone around me thinks their mes 40s are worth $150 to $200!  I'd like to find one in the free to $40 range.

Ryan


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## cmayna (Dec 7, 2021)

Mine was free on Craigslist with a dead controller.  Yeah Baby!!


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## dr k (Dec 7, 2021)

tallbm said:


> Thanks
> 
> dr k
> I just looked at it on amazon.
> ...


This also has the double top vents with a heavy duty  broiler ceiling, an optional broiler element with it's own limit snap disk and a rotisserie. Haha. This is the colossal money pit POS series. All kinds of people had problems with the 150 watt independenr chip/chunk burner with five settings and it's own sensor. Setting 1 for chips and 2-5 for chunks. I'm with you on the 3" hole saw for the mailbox mod but two more connectors and the 150 element in circuit with the 1,200  to fail, I'd probably get it all out so just the main bottom 1,200 element is used. Haha Looks like the right would still be a little warmer anyway. Dang! What was MB thinking?


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## dr k (Dec 7, 2021)

Brokenhandle said:


> Too bad everyone around me thinks their mes 40s are worth $150 to $200!  I'd like to find one in the free to $40 range.
> 
> Ryan


Right! Keep looking. FB Marketplace has deals to. Found a free Mes 30 with a bad limit switch I bypassed with a wire nut since my pit therm is set to a range if temp gets too low or high for an alert but don't really need it with the Mes 40 and PID. I do use it for small cooks.


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## Brokenhandle (Dec 7, 2021)

dr k said:


> Right! Keep looking. FB Marketplace has deals to. Found a free Mes 30 with a bad limit switch I bypassed with a wire nut since my pit therm is set to a range if temp gets too low or high for an alert but don't really need it with the Mes 40 and PID. I do use it for small cooks.


Yep I have a small mes 30 analog that I use with an auber pid thanks to 

 tallbm
  And all his help!  He is very knowledgeable and helpful. 
One thing to keep in mind...I believe most of the issues with masterbuilt customer service started with the pandemic and since not being able to find enough help. Before that I called and got through to them on my 1st try and they were very helpful.  From here in Iowa to western South Dakota I doubt I walk into a place of business that doesn't have a help wanted sign hanging.  But I do know how frustrating it can be.

Ryan


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## cmayna (Dec 7, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> Someone here suggested that I buy a heating element off Amazon or wherever and I can still use the smoker. I like that solution. Can someone explain it more clearly?



Helen we (most of us) don't think it's the element.  As others have said, sounds like the controller and Tallbm has supplied lots of details on how to bypass the smoker's stock controller allowing you to plug your smoker into a Auber PID controller.  IronDogJCH says the above mod turns the smoker into a toaster. Yes, but that's only part of the mod.  You then need another controller such as the Auber PID.   Those wired together, gives you a very nice and effecient smoker.  Perfect for your Salmon.  :-)

To you and IronDogJCH, what are the model numbers of your smokers?  Wish you were near by.


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## DougE (Dec 7, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> Please stop acting like that is easy for someone who has never dealt with wiring, has no equipment, and is going to figure this out completely with no experience whatsoever over a website thread. It's extremely unrealistic and almost insulting.


I understand your frustration, but it really is as simple as allowing these guys to help you and following their instructions. It's a simple cut and splice job.


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## dr k (Dec 7, 2021)

Brokenhandle said:


> Yep I have a small mes 30 analog that I use with an auber pid thanks to
> 
> tallbm
> And all his help!  He is very knowledgeable and helpful.
> ...


MB needs to have an outgoing message on their phones saying to go to their FB page and messenger them to be transparent. It's the only way to get a response that day.


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## tallbm (Dec 7, 2021)

Brokenhandle said:


> Too bad everyone around me thinks their mes 40s are worth $150 to $200!  I'd like to find one in the free to $40 range.
> 
> Ryan


That sucks.  Don't worry some will be availale here soon.  People will get new ones for Christmas and give away or toss out their old ones which will be awesome to have for free and rewire for a PID.



cmayna said:


> Mine was free on Craigslist with a dead controller.  Yeah Baby!!


Yep got one for my mother for $40 off Craigslist and one for my brother for $50 off Craigslist.
Best MES in the world is one for free that died on someone and the element is still good.  Just 4 snips and 2 wire nuts + the PID and it's BBQ heaven!



dr k said:


> This also has the double top vents with a heavy duty  broiler ceiling, an optional broiler element with it's own limit snap disk and a rotisserie. Haha. This is the colossal money pit POS series. All kinds of people had problems with the 150 watt independenr chip/chunk burner with five settings and it's own sensor. Setting 1 for chips and 2-5 for chunks. I'm with you on the 3" hole saw for the mailbox mod but two more connectors and the 150 element in circuit with the 1,200  to fail, I'd probably get it all out so just the main bottom 1,200 element is used. Haha Looks like the right would still be a little warmer anyway. Dang! What was MB thinking?



Oh wow lots of crap for MB to allow to fail hahaha.
I would wire in the top broiler too and have heat from both directions!!!
Can you imagine how fast a 3 element MES would come up to temp and how easily it could recover or power through colder temps!!! Hahaha.

Also broil... cmon their insulation won't handle too much operation over 330F.  You need like 500F+ temps to broil something like in the oven hahaha.

I wouldn't turn down a free or "broken" one though.  I'd splice all those elements into the same rewire and they would all heat up at once and the PID controller would do it's thing.


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 8, 2021)

cmayna said:


> Helen we (most of us) don't think it's the element.  As others have said, sounds like the controller and Tallbm has supplied lots of details on how to bypass the smoker's stock controller allowing you to plug your smoker into a Auber PID controller.  IronDogJCH says the above mod turns the smoker into a toaster. Yes, but that's only part of the mod.  You then need another controller such as the Auber PID.   Those wired together, gives you a very nice and effecient smoker.  Perfect for your Salmon.  :-)
> 
> To you and IronDogJCH, what are the model numbers of your smokers?  Wish you were near by.


MES 430G, M/N MB21076819.

Yes, I understand. and I have the optional top broiler, which I've turned on, maybe twice, for finishing one of Jeff's Ham & Cheese Fatties. 

I'm curious about this 3" hole mentioned. Would this be for the wood chunks/chips? Because this unit has a small flip down door built onto the side that directly accesses the smoke element for adding the wood. It's a small, self-contained little box that physically sets beside the primary element,


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## Brokenhandle (Dec 8, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> MES 430G, M/N MB21076819.
> 
> Yes, I understand. and I have the optional top broiler, which I've turned on, maybe twice, for finishing one of Jeff's Ham & Cheese Fatties.
> 
> I'm curious about this 3" hole mentioned. Would this be for the wood chunks/chips? Because this unit has a small flip down door built onto the side that directly accesses the smoke element for adding the wood. It's a small, self-contained little box that physically sets beside the primary element,


The 3 inch hole would be for doing the mail box mod







Which in this pic the amnps is sitting on top of the mailbox.  But it gets filled with pellets,  lit, and placed inside the mailbox...giving you up to 9 to 12 hours of smoke.

Ryan


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## tallbm (Dec 8, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> MES 430G, M/N MB21076819.
> 
> Yes, I understand. and I have the optional top broiler, which I've turned on, maybe twice, for finishing one of Jeff's Ham & Cheese Fatties.
> 
> I'm curious about this 3" hole mentioned. Would this be for the wood chunks/chips? Because this unit has a small flip down door built onto the side that directly accesses the smoke element for adding the wood. It's a small, self-contained little box that physically sets beside the primary element,



In the regular MES (non-400series) there is a chip feeder tube that fits into a pre-cut 3 inch hole.  The tube allows you to put wood chips into it.  Then you shove the tube into the MES and turn it to drop the chips on to the chip burning plate and the chips will smoke.

Many of us MES guys toss the chip tube away and build a mailbox mod like what 

 Brokenhandle
 shows.  We use a 3 inch aluminum elbow duct that fits perfectly into the the chip tube hole.
The AMNPS tray gets lit, blown out, and then put into the mailbox and generates smoke that goes into the MES, up and out!

A number of guys put the AMNPS tray directly into the AMNPS as well.
I had too much trouble doing that so opted for the Mailbox Mod (MES30's have more trouble than MES40's as well).  
Plus I liked the idea of having the smoke manageable without having to open my smoker AND when pellet flame ups happen I can handle things more easily, flame ups happen at times with wind gusts and such and my remote thermometer lets me know if my smoker gets up over a certain temp so I just go and knock out the flame up and get the pellets smoking normally again.

Many different kinds of mailbmox mod styles exist.  Here's mine:


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## dr k (Dec 8, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> MES 430G, M/N MB21076819.
> 
> Yes, I understand. and I have the optional top broiler, which I've turned on, maybe twice, for finishing one of Jeff's Ham & Cheese Fatties.
> 
> I'm curious about this 3" hole mentioned. Would this be for the wood chunks/chips? Because this unit has a small flip down door built onto the side that directly accesses the smoke element for adding the wood. It's a small, self-contained little box that physically sets beside the primary element,


if the chip chunk burner is good and a bad sensor, you can make a power cord with 16 gauge cord put on high heat connectors on hot and neutral and an eye circle lug on the ground wire. Disconnect stock wires to the wood element connect hot and neutral power cord wires to the element and tighten eye lug to one of the access screws to ground chassis. Plug into a variable speed router 15 amp from harbor freight so it's on or off or on the variable dial to control smoke. You can do it for the top broiler element as well with another power cord and get another controller or unplug the one for wood and plug into the broiler power cord. Then do no back removal or another power cord for the PID controller for the bottom main element if bypassing all MB wiring. Run top element or bottom element one at a time on the same circuit. You can find the variable controller on amazon and walmart I believe. 




__





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					www.harborfreight.com


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## cmayna (Dec 8, 2021)

Looking at the details of IronDogJCH  smoker, I do question if it is wired in similar manner as our Gen1 or Gen2 smokers.  Is there a cover on the bottom?   Is there a cover on the back down towards the bottom?

And as I typed the above, dr k has provided some detailed options for IronDogJCH


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## dr k (Dec 8, 2021)

cmayna said:


> Looking at the details of IronDogJCH  smoker, I do question if it is wired in similar manner as our Gen1 or Gen2 smokers.  Is there a cover on the bottom?   Is there a cover on the back down towards the bottom?
> 
> And as I typed the above, dr k has provided some detailed options for IronDogJCH


There are accesses all over the place to all three elements. I'd burn chunks with the stock wood element before the mailbox mod like the cookshack, smoken it and smoken tex weighing out 6 oz of wood or so for something different.


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## dr k (Dec 8, 2021)

cmayna said:


> Looking at the details of IronDogJCH  smoker, I do question if it is wired in similar manner as our Gen1 or Gen2 smokers.  Is there a cover on the bottom?   Is there a cover on the back down towards the bottom?
> 
> And as I typed the above, dr k has provided some detailed options for IronDogJCH


I downloaded the manual for this model and it shows the bottom main element and top element are tapped for screw terminals, lock washer, regular washer an eye lug on each wire. The wood element appears to use the standard female spade lugs on our models. Accesses to rollout limit switches. This looks like easy work to bypass everything.


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 8, 2021)

My smoker is a Masterbuilt MES440/S

I am afraid I can make neither heads nor tails of the technical description/language explaining what a "PID" is, how it works, how it is used, or how I would figure out which one to get or how to implement it. 

I am looking for an explanation in layperson's terms. Otherwise the info is not useful in my case.



IronDogJCH said:


> MES 430G, M/N MB21076819.
> 
> Yes, I understand. and I have the optional top broiler, which I've turned on, maybe twice, for finishing one of Jeff's Ham & Cheese Fatties.
> 
> I'm curious about this 3" hole mentioned. Would this be for the wood chunks/chips? Because this unit has a small flip down door built onto the side that directly accesses the smoke element for adding the wood. It's a small, self-contained little box that physically sets beside the primary element,


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## postmeister (Dec 8, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> My smoker is a Masterbuilt MES440/S
> 
> I am afraid I can make neither heads nor tails of the technical description/language explaining what a "PID" is, how it works, how it is used, or how I would figure out which one to get or how to implement it.
> 
> I am looking for an explanation in layperson's terms. Otherwise the info is not useful in my case.




In simple terms, when you do the rewire, you effectively bypass the built in controller (which controls the cooking duration and the temperature). The PID will be the controller when you plug your MES into it.


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## Brokenhandle (Dec 8, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> My smoker is a Masterbuilt MES440/S
> 
> I am afraid I can make neither heads nor tails of the technical description/language explaining what a "PID" is, how it works, how it is used, or how I would figure out which one to get or how to implement it.
> 
> I am looking for an explanation in layperson's terms. Otherwise the info is not useful in my case.


Helen, did you see the pictures I posted? Total of 3 pics. First off, stop thinking about doing any wiring or rewiring and just look at my pics.  That way you won't be overwhelmed.  The 2 pics  I first posted is a pid controller made by auber. First one is a pic of the front and second is a pic of the back of the unit. This unit is what would control your smoker temps... your controls on your smoker will do nothing after the rewire.

Now I know you don't understand anything being said about the rewiring, and that's perfectly ok. My question to you is... do you have a relative that lives close that could maybe do it for you if we explain what and how to do it? Or if not a relative,  maybe a neighbor,  or a friend? You could repay them with some awesome smoked food once we help get your smoker going again!

Ryan


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 8, 2021)

I did look at the pics. It looks like a pretty long, involved fix. I was hopeful before I looked at the instructions but not after. I was hoping it was something I could kind of plug in and use. I do not have friends that know about rewiring. I am more handy than most people I know. Anyone I know who does wiring would want to be paid for doing a complicated job like this. 

I would have to hire someone to do this repair.



Brokenhandle said:


> Helen, did you see the pictures I posted? Total of 3 pics. First off, stop thinking about doing any wiring or rewiring and just look at my pics.  That way you won't be overwhelmed.  The 2 pics  I first posted is a pid controller made by auber. First one is a pic of the front and second is a pic of the back of the unit. This unit is what would control your smoker temps... your controls on your smoker will do nothing after the rewire.
> 
> Now I know you don't understand anything being said about the rewiring, and that's perfectly ok. My question to you is... do you have a relative that lives close that could maybe do it for you if we explain what and how to do it? Or if not a relative,  maybe a neighbor,  or a friend? You could repay them with some awesome smoked food once we help get your smoker going again!
> 
> Ryan


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## postmeister (Dec 8, 2021)

Helen Ivy said:


> ...
> I would have to hire someone to do this repair.


 I would do it for free if you happen to be somewhere near Redlands.


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## Helen Ivy (Dec 8, 2021)

Thanks! I appreciate the offer! I am just south of Hollywood.


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## IronDogJCH (Dec 9, 2021)

Fantastic. I did a Google search for the auber pid and found quite a few devices. Google Search results page for auber pid

They obviously get this issue presented to them as they have a section specifically called Smoker Controllers Smoker Controllers. They are a little proud of their equipment, and likely so. However, one of the connections I missed in the previous instructions, and I'll need to go back and review, was the temp sensor connections to the external PID controller. Several from this above page offer single or dual "meat probe" connections which would be routed into the box thru one of the existing meat probe pass-thru grommets. I assume this would be the preferred method based upon the need for some type of feedback for the controller to use for maintaining "control" as it were. 

Thanks so much for the discussions. I like the mailbox setups, and actually happen to have one of the A-Maze-N tube units my wife gave to me for Christmas a few years back. Was going to use it in the Weber grill sitting next to my MB unit as there isn't a flat surface inside the cabinet to set it on. No big deal there. And as to the 3" hole and ducting, I will need to do an Apollo 13 fix as the current trap door port on the side of my unit for the wood burning area is a rectangular opening, "round peg into a square hole" type of thingy.

My previous MB cabinet was the type mentioned previously with the removable tube that delivered the chips into/onto the burner tray. They offered an optional "Cold Smoke" chimney that sat on the ground next to the smoker that, after removing the tube tray. The smoke exited this device thru a hole on its side that conveniently plugged right into the port the original device used, and was held in place with a j-hooked bolt that hooked onto the internal edge of the smoke chips frame. This external device had a pyramidal chimney holding wood chips with an advertised 6- or 8-hour smoke session. The idea being to provide smoke without having to energize the cabinets heating elements. My issue with that was the chimney accumulated a significant amount of tarry creosote that prevented the chips from falling onto the element thereby preventing the smoke, even tho the thing was full of chips.


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## cmayna (Dec 9, 2021)

Here’s my Auber and mailbox set up.  So darn reliable.  Yes, with a couple  wireless temp sensors.


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## tallbm (Dec 9, 2021)

IronDogJCH said:


> Fantastic. I did a Google search for the auber pid and found quite a few devices. Google Search results page for auber pid
> 
> They obviously get this issue presented to them as they have a section specifically called Smoker Controllers Smoker Controllers. They are a little proud of their equipment, and likely so. However, one of the connections I missed in the previous instructions, and I'll need to go back and review, was the temp sensor connections to the external PID controller. Several from this above page offer single or dual "meat probe" connections which would be routed into the box thru one of the existing meat probe pass-thru grommets. I assume this would be the preferred method based upon the need for some type of feedback for the controller to use for maintaining "control" as it were.
> 
> ...



I can clear up the fog around the PID sensor.
Most of us just drop it down the vent of the smoker and clip it to the bottom rock or somewhere reliable.

I clip mine underneth the center of the bottom rack and I always use a bottom rack.  This seems to be the most responsive area to measure temp.
I have other digital wireless thermometers that measure my rack level temps as well and they have meat probes.  I don't even use a meat probe on my PID.

So with the dual probe PID you just use one of the probes as your smoker probe and the other as a meat probe even though they are both meat probe style.

On your new smoker a 3 inch hole saw would solve the problem with your chip trap door.  You then just go into the mailbox mod approach from there.  I'm sure it could all be rigged up quite easily and elegantly.

Yeah that smoke attachment that Masterbuilt came up with isn't bad but also isn't great.  The mailbmox mod + AMNPS is far far far superior and no creosote to stop it from working once you get it all tweaked and working :)


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## bill1 (Dec 9, 2021)

Helen, in simplest terms a PID is like the thermostat in your house.  When it's too cold, it turns the heat on.  When it then gets too hot, it turns the heat off.  Then when it gets too cold again, etc etc.  A PID is just a little more elegant in how it does (and actually predicts) this on/off switching.  

I'll let these guys who love their Aubers show you a picture of how you would hook it up to your element.  And the other cord plugs into a standard wall plug.  If you were up to changing out the heating element (which it doesn't appear you need) this is actually easier. 

Now the "mailbox mods" they're all clamoring about may require using a 3" hole saw in a power tool.  Just let us know if you've never done something like that because yes there is a possibility of cutting yourself pretty bad in such an operation and it might be beyond your comfort level--and that is understandable.  But there are other ways of getting you flavorful smoke in that case.


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