# Sealing a Char Griller Smoking pro



## fpmich (Jul 20, 2013)

Need help with my new char griller and have few questions about some mods.

I hope I post this in the right forum.  If not, please move this thread to the right forum, but don't slap me until I learn my way around :)

*I love this site! * Over the past year, I have been researching the Char Griller, and smoking in general.  *It seemed that I ended up right here for info, more often than not *with Google search.  So kudu's to those running the site, as well as to great members with so much knowledge to share.  Thanks.

Char Griller has changed some things since I first started looking at them last year, and even earlier this year.

One took me by surprise after I opened the box, spread stuff on the floor, and pondered how I was to assemble it.
*Hey!  They didn't pack my warming shelf!  *Well apparently, they just recently made that an "optional feature" for 20 bucks extra.

Not a big problem for me, as I doubt I would use it too much anyway.  Besides, without it I can extend the stack straight down with a tube.

*And the other BIG CHANGE* is... that *you don't have to knock out the football openings any more!*

They're already cut out for you!  Woo Hoo!  That was my biggest fear.  I've read so many posts on various sites about problems with removing them, and was afraid I may trash my smoker before I even got it together.

OK.  I'm a new guy here, and new to sfb smoking.   Now lets toss out a few newbie questions.

I see how *alelover* made a channel to lay his rope in to seal lid. http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/111490/chargriller-seal-modification

*1. *Could I do it with just one upside down L angle stock (just the bottom angle stock in his pics).
Then lay an adhesive bead & stove rope (round or flat).  The lid should sit & seal itself on the rope wouldn't it?.

*2.* Any reason not to use aluminum with rivets or screws, as opposed to steel & bolts for this?  Conflict with metals? Steel rusts.

*I will be using* my Char Griller Smokin Pro, for *both smoking & direct grilling.*

*3. *Temperature question:  Will direct grilling exceed the temperature limits on the Permetex high heat sealants like the Red (500*F) or Copper (700*F) and cause either of them to fail?

*4.* I know that most of you use the Permetex Red.  Any reason not to use the higher heat rated Copper?  Is there a problem I don't recognize?

*5. *Any reason not to have smoke stack extended down to great for direct grilling?  Probably a silly question.  I can see no reason for it to interfere.

*Thanks in advance for your help.*   Don't get too technical on me tho'.  I'm a simple guy.

KISS principle apply's to me.  Keep It Stupid Simple!


----------



## fpmich (Jul 24, 2013)

Still need advice... Come on guys and gals.  Help me out.  
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






No replies in  4 days from 52,000 plus members. 

Maybe I should not have posted question at beginning of weekend.  Everyone out smoking?  lol

sry to bump my own threat, but I can use some help.

Thanks in advance,  to any who reply.


----------



## fpmich (Jul 29, 2013)

*Invisible Clear Coat on threads...  is a sure fired way to guarantee they will remain  totally protected.*

And I must have used it, when I posted this thread. 

I would really like to get this smoker up and running, but want to do it right, with your help.  I joined this site because of the wealth of info, but sometimes search just doesn't get the answers we need.  So I posted, thinking I would get some replies.  9 days, over 80 views, almost 53,000 members and still no replies? Sheesh!  I'm not asking for the moon or money!

This is my last bump of this thread.


----------



## fpmich (Jul 31, 2013)

Never mind.  11 days and no responses. Sad. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





I still like this site, but just not for quick responses to questions.

I got answers to all my questions. on another site pretty quickly, so you can close this thread if you want.

Not bad mouthing site, just the lack of semi-quick responses.


----------



## gone4nc (Jul 31, 2013)

I tried to post this earlier, and igt never showed up. I am about to put the L bracket aand rope seal on my snp. I too am going to use aluminum.  I see no problem with it. I am also going ro use copper rtv sealer, I have not seen any posts saying not to.


----------



## fpmich (Aug 1, 2013)

Thanks for the reply GONE4NC!

Hey! I too was a driver.  Retired now for about 4 years, and still miss the road and the long hauls.  Stay safe!

According to info I've read here and there, the Red Ultra is food safe, but the Copper Ultra is NSF.  I don't see that it really makes a difference as your food shouldn't touch it anyway.  I'm gonna have to go with the Red Ultra because I can't find anyplace near me that has the copper one. *What store did you find the copper at?*  I would rather have copper (700*) between the sfb and the barrel at least.

Aluminum and steel/iron don't really mix, but not to extreme measures.  I am going to use aluminum angle, but use steel bolts to attach it.  That way if any corrosion occurs, it will be on the bolts instead of the barrel. (I hope)  I also plan on just bolting the angle on in an inverted L shape.  Seems to me like that would make it easier to drain/ dry when caught with rain, instead of a channel which would hold water in more & longer.


----------



## cliffcarter (Aug 1, 2013)

fpmich said:


> Need help with my new char griller and have few questions about some mods.
> 
> I hope I post this in the right forum.  If not, please move this thread to the right forum, but don't slap me until I learn my way around :)
> 
> ...


1. Should be ok as long as the stove rope does not move.

2. Use steel and store the CG inside out of the weather to prevent rust. KISS Rule.

3 and 4. If you are going to sear at very high temperature, 600°+, get the highest rated silicone you can. I recommend 1000° rated.

5. This is not necessary IMHO, but if you extend the stack down it should end at least 4" above the cooking surface for proper draw.


----------



## gone4nc (Aug 1, 2013)

I haven't picked up the copper rtv yet, but Pep Boys had it last I checked. If it's not food safe I thick I'll stick with the 500. This project might start this weekend.thanks.


----------



## noxcuse (Aug 1, 2013)

May I offer what I did on my trailer smoker? If you don't have much of a gap, I would do this. I bought a caulking tube of black fireplace sealant from my local hardware store. You can also get red, but I used black to match the lid. Put Saran Wrap on the bottom mating surface, and with a caulking gun, apply the silicone to the lid. Once you finish, shut the lid so the silicone flattens out on the Saran Wrap. After about 24 hours, open it and remove the Saran Wrap. It just peels right off. Now you have a perfectly formed sealing surface. I took a razor blade and trimmed the outside for looks. Also, I've ran my smoker up to 500° to clean it and never had to worry about that silicone. 

-----
Sent from my Droid Razr Maxx


----------



## fpmich (Aug 2, 2013)

I would love to get 1000* rated silicone, but as much trouble as I had finding any over 500* rating, I'll have to pass.

I did finally find some of the Ultra Copper today at Auto Zone.  Wal-Mart, Meijer, Home Depot nor Lowes had any at all.

The reasons I'm going with aluminum is 1) it's easier to work with and 2) it doesn't rust. 

I'm planning on just doing a thin bead of sealer then laying the rope on and adding a few pop rivets or screws to hold it well.  If, after I get it together and the gaps aren't too big, I'll probably do just the sealer thing was mentioned, but if gaps are big, then I will go with the rope.  I'd like to use angle iron to help strengthen the barrel and store inside when not is use too.  But seeing as I am putting this thing together in the living room, tells you I don't have inside area for outside things.  My wife is so thrilled to have these parts lying around for 2 week now.

That's the main reason I was getting antsy about no immediate replies. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





  I feel much better now tho.

Chimney height.  Most say at grill level for smoking, some say, a little above.  I'm planning on just using flashing rolled up and stuck into chimney,  Then I can raise or lower if need be.  Of course if I decide to add the warming rack, then I will have to go the flexible route and make a decision.  Low or med low.  Jury is still out.  Why do you recommend 4" over grill level?

As for searing at very high temps.  I don't build the coals up to meat the meat.  I take the meat to the coals.  I have a piece of enamel grate I use and just lay it right on top of the hot coals, let it get hot & sear the steaks or whatever that way, then put them back up top where the heat is lower.  In fact when using a very hot bed of coals from a camp fire, I will lay steaks directly on the glowing embers to cook.  The char will brush right off and you are left with the best tasting steak you'll ever have. 

Years ago my wife gasped 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





  the 1st time she watched me do that to 2 porterhouse steaks.  After eating, she's a believer.

And yes, they were med rare to rare.  Any other way to enjoy a steak? :)

*Thank you all for your replies and input!*   I appreciate the help and guidance.

NoXcuse: I saw pic of your trailer build.  Nice job there!  I would like to see your fire box for it.  I doesn't show in the pics I saw.


----------



## noxcuse (Aug 4, 2013)

Thanks man. If I remember tomorrow, I'll go take a pic of it. It's just a basic rectangle with a rectangle door. I plan on making this one into a patio smoker and making a reverse flow trailer smoker out of a propane tank. 

-----
Sent from my Droid Razr Maxx


----------



## fpmich (Sep 6, 2013)

double posted.  sry.  can't seem to delete it


----------



## fpmich (Sep 6, 2013)

Well, if I'm anything with a project, ... it's S-L-O-W-!  Just ask my wife. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





I finally fired up my char-griller last night for it's 1st seasoning.

I ended up making a "channel" as *alelover *did, but I just used 1/2" angle aluminum and riveting around the bottom half of barrel.  If I decide to replace anything it will be steel angle for the sides, so that it helps straighten them.  Used 1/2" stove rope, should've used a larger size, as I still have some minor leaks, but not bad.  I ran a small bead of sealant across the back of bottom barrel and added 1/2 rope to it and closed lid to cure.   I was worried that the 1/2" rope would be too much for the back seal, but now I wish I had used larger there too.  Not too leaky, but some.  I had a larger gap than I thought, but think I can remedy that with just a bead of red sealer on top of rope.  A little smoke leeks from the hinges, but not as much as expected.  I ran a small bead of red sealer along the top of the bottom barrel there.  Didn't want rope as it would just keep fraying from the ups and downs.

Used the copper 700* sealant between sfb and chamber, and then chickened out and used only  the food safe  600* red sealant around the food chamber.  I sealed inside of chimney mount with red sealer, and copper on outside of it.  Doesn't leak a bit there!  The sfb leeks very slightly, and I don't think I will bother sealing it.  Seems to be a good fit.  I haven't made a basket yet, so right now I'm using it as is right out of the box.  A basket will be in my near future though.  Ash was awfully thick, and no way to dump it without dumping live coals too..  (Kingsford)

I made a temporary inside chimney extension  (wouldn't fit over flange, so just cut a slit).  Didn't mount it permanently at all yet. I have some ideas on how to make it removable for grilling without tools.  ( still thinking on that).  And I sweet talked (read...fooled)  Meijer's into giving me a free warming rack.

I was a little confused about where to put hot coals for seasoning.  SFB or Main chamber.  So I started with main chamber.  Started a chimney starter full, & place a few more unlit coals scattered on grate.   When chimney coals were fully going, I spread them out over the unlit ones into what I thought would be a moderate fire source.  Closed lid and very soon temps went to 500* and then to 560*.

Couldn't get temps to drop, even after closing intake on sfb, So I  scooped all the hot coals back into the chimney after a hour of trying.  Emptied & flipped grate over for baffle, added the leftover hot coals to sfb & tried again.  Temps were lower between 250* & 260*. * My two side thermometers read a 30* diff.*   So I just put on my Temporary Inside Chimney Extension.  Didn't fasten or seal it, just loosely stuck it on.  Temps went to 5*-10* from side to side.   Left it this way for awhile, and watched my Maverick inside the house.  Temps held fast at 260* down to 245* with both vents WIDE OPEN.   Went out a lot, to check the grate thermometers, and they were usually 10* to 5*, different.  These temps held for about 2 hours before dropping a bit, without me messing with fire at all.  It was all just charcoal for tonight, except for a few small dead Maple Branch pieces tossed at beginning to check for smoke leaks.  *I'm really very happy with my small leaks on this unit!*

I used River Country 3" Glow Dial w/ 2 1/2 stem Therms for side to side, 2" above grate and about 3 1/2" from ends.  Put my maverick right in the center between them, and also about 2 1/2" from lip, and never way my Maverick off from more that 5* from either side therm.

Goning to do another burn today to season some more, and play with temp control when I add wood to coals and etc.

Can't Wait until I smoke something!  But, again.... I'm S-LO-W-!  So don't expect photo's too soon.

QUESTIONS:

1.  D*id I do good,  get lucky, or neither*

2.  *Is getting the Warmer Plate for sfb worth it?*

-----Seems like a handy thing to have or either keep food warm or for pre-warming wood before adding to firebox, as well having another flat space when using as grill.  Never too many flat surfaces!  LOL

Thank you for your input.

*I want honest experienced opinions*,... rather just what I "want" to hear.

If I've done something wrong, or something that could be made better, Just tell me.  I can deal with it :)

*Thank you all so much!  *This site has given me so much info already!


----------



## fpmich (Sep 6, 2013)

*Is there a way to delete posts?*

I accidentally double posted, but can't fiqure out how to delete.

SRY


----------



## fpmich (Sep 9, 2013)

*Any input to my education here is appreciated!*

Next day, I wanted to see how low temps worked in it for smoking fish & jerky.

Lit 6-7  Kingsford briquettes with barrel ash tray upside down, but added a tinfoil baffle to direct all the smoke & heat under the upside down ash pan..  Got about 95* with a difference of  15* side to side.  Hour later I added 8 more lit coals, and temps went to 125*, with a difference of 20*, side to side.  1/2 hour later, I added another 12more lit coals, and temp went to 150* with a diff of 25* side to side.

Removed the foil baffle between sfb and pan, and temps evened out at to 5*-15* per side.

Also experimented with top chimney extension above the smoker.  Used leftover duct and slid it onto chimney making it about 2' tall.  Temps on left (chimney side) rose about 20* to 25* higher than sfb side.  When I removed it, it leveled OK again.  So I guess I can use that trick to heat up that side from time to time, instead of opening lid and moving meats around so much.

*Again... Any input is appreciated!  I'm here to learn.*


----------



## fpmich (Sep 10, 2013)

*1st cook on new CGSP.*   (Ribs, of course)  Was surprised at temp variations from side to side and in the middle, with my maverick.  Did two racks of spare ribs, which I bought whole, and trimmed down to KC style with riblets cut off, but still cooked up.

*My nice even across temps that I got from my 1st two burns went to h*ll in hand basket!*   lol

My Maverick in the middle, read about 15* to 25* higher than either of my side therms.  And temp diff on each side varied from 15* to 25*  Turned sfb into 8-10 mph breeze, got too hot, turned it back around.  Better but my temps were still not holding right.  Placed my maverick right next to each side therm, and it still showed hotter than they did.  I had calibrated both the side therm's, and maverick, with boiling water before installing.

My side thermometers are located about 2 1/2" up from grate, and 3 1/2" from ends, or sides.  However the maverick was only about 1/2" above grate using the clip that came with it.  But I don't see how that could effect the temps that much, as all the heat was coming from the sfb.  The temps were always hotter at the stack end. * I can really use some input and help on this crazy problem. *

Anyway... I used the 3-2-1 Method on ribs.  Left one slab & a couple of small pieces, not wrapped, for a test.  We only did a taste test of a small riblet and the pieces of meat from both ends tonight.  They were not foiled at all but tasted great and were fairly tender.  The thin pieces were little over cooked, but I expected that.  Tomorrow we eat them ( A late start on smoking).

And end piece (2 or 3 bones) fell off from the non-foiled slab when I turned it, so I am guessing I probably won't bother with foil again for ribs.  But...tomorrow will tell, when we try them.

I used no water pans.  I used about 2 lb of Kingsford blue, and about 4 lb of RO hickory lump, along with (a very few pieces of dry hickory & maple wood). Just enough to keep the tbs flowing.  Haven't made a basket yet.  Just used the ash clogging thing it came with.

Questions:

1. *Am I doing OK on the charcoal usage?*   6 lb or more of charcoal, for 6 hour cook @ 225*.

2. *What is the deal with the temps being so weird* with just 2 slabs of ribs.  That's got me confused.

Any input and suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks

Frank


----------



## fpmich (Sep 11, 2013)

1st real taste test of first cook.   Re-heated ribs last night for dinner.  Pieces included both foiled, and non-foiled, as well as with and without any sauce for last hour.  The foiled ones were a tad bit more tender than I like, but still not as mushy as you get in restaurants., but the un-foiled were perfect for me.  Bone still came out clean, but meat had a little more texture & would hold on to bone just a tad while you ate it, which I prefer.  Wife didn't care which were which,  She just scarfed all of them down!


----------



## daveinflorida (Sep 16, 2013)

I used the red permatex on all the screws inside my charbroil smoker and now when i smoke, the smell of chemicals is so bad, people across the street say they smell chemicals. Should I have not used that much? i only used it because i saw so many people saying its good. I have a good seal but again, meat smells like chems, inside grill smells like serious chems. I hate to have to get something to remove all of it. So I'm wondering what's the best to seal the grill without having this?


----------



## fpmich (Sep 17, 2013)

My guess is that you over did it with the sealer Dave.  No need to seal "all" the bolts, as the bolts and nuts do that anyway.  The only place I have sealer on the inside is just to plug the 4 holes for the rotisserie that I don't use, and when I get some bolts, I'll remove those plugs and just bolt and nut the holes.  Other than that, all my sealer is on the outside for gasket adhesive and chimney seal. As far as removing the sealer, it shouldn't too bad as it is a silicone.  Just peel off and maybe a little scraping on bits and pieces.

As for the smell, was that the first time you fired it up,  or did it continue to smell on 2nd and 3rd time too?  I never noticed any smell from mine and I had cooking chamber to 560* the 1st time.  But my sealant had also cured a few days before the 1st burn too.


----------



## jarjarchef (Sep 17, 2013)

I am sorry that you have gotten little or no responses for this thread. Usually a thread like this you get a ton. 

I saw you are also getting help from another site as well as asking here. Where are you with needing questions answered? I will be happy to go back to the beginning if needed, but if you have moved on I don't want cause any confussion. 

Jeramy


----------



## fpmich (Sep 18, 2013)

Thank you for your reply Jeramy.

I appreciate it!

I've received some replies and help, for which I'm grateful for them taking the time to help a newbie.  Only questions I still have pending right now is pretty much from post #13 and down.

Yes, I did get "some info" from other sites, but the info on this site seems to be the best in my book.  In fact, some of the info I got from other sites, were links to this forum.  LOL  So ya, I'm here to stay.  This site just doesn't seem to be one for quick answers.  But eventually I guess, it WILL get answered.

I do have another question on how to best transport my CGSP to another location for a party 20 miles away, but I'm going to try to make a new thread for that and see if I can get tips before this weekend.  My options are a small POS 4X6 trailer, or dismantling smoker grill partially and stinking up my van forever.  LOL


----------



## jarjarchef (Sep 18, 2013)

It sounds like you are getting it figured out. 

I would say you really need a charcoal basket. It will help you have a more constant burn temp and less fuel consumption. Your not doing bad on it, it will just help keep it cleaner.

Using the ash pan as a tunner works better then most think. I would hang the lip of the ash pan on the bolt heads for the fire box.  I would also use foil to help seal that seam. Tunning plates will help, but not really a must have. I would do the basket first.

When you did your test burns you had no food in the cook chamber. So you had a clean flow of heat and air. When you add food you change how it all flows. So not surprising of your results. If you add different type of food like butts, you will get another result. By using tuning plates you can make adjustments to help compensate for the changes and you can also create a heat sync that will help keep temps level across the cook chamber.

Keep your notes and just cook and make adjustments as needed. Keep the top vent wide open and adjust your temp by the air intake for the fire box. More open = hotter. Remember every time you open either the cook chamber or fire box you are letting oxygen get to the fire, so it will spike. Give the cooker about 20 min to settle down before making adjustments.

Hope this helps. Let me know if I can help any other way.

Jeramy


----------



## daveinflorida (Sep 18, 2013)

Looks like over did the application of the RTV on the inside  both the firechamber which is where I'm sure the majority of the smell is coming from and inside the cooking chamber putting it around all bolts, the chimney, the logo. Funny thing. I put two thermoters and tightened them down. No leaks.:)  I guess I have some work to remove the excess and try to figure out how to smoke or burn off the chemicals that might be sort of cooked on to the inside of the smoker. I do have to say, I have no leaks which the rtv works. Thanks guys. I'll have to get on fixing this as I dont want to trash this smoker as I just bought it.


----------



## fpmich (Sep 19, 2013)

*Thanks Jeramy.*   Good to know not to sweat the weird (to me anyway) temps side to side & middle when food on vs. when empty.

Yes, flipping the ash pan over did work out quite well for me.  I foiled the bottom of barrel to catch drips and help with cleanup, but didn't think to foil the top of the pan.  DUH!  What a mess, and lesson learned.

*Dave... *Don't even think about throwing unit out.  Just clean off any and ALL RTV inside the cooking chamber and sfb.  What don't peel off, wire brush off.  Then clean out inside of everything with something like Mean Green and rinse very well.  Wipe dry, and start over by re-seasoning again.  Should take care of the problem.


----------



## daveinflorida (Sep 19, 2013)

Thanks. I will buy some mean green. My only question is then for where I have the rtv sealing the one hole that came pre-cut, I put a big glob of rtv to cover that hole on the inside and then some to keep the cheesy charbroil emblem from leaking. What do you recommend I use to seal those?


----------



## fpmich (Sep 20, 2013)

Big Globs is not how you want to use it.  Are you related to my late father?  If a little bit is good, then a LOT is better, was his motto.  LOL

Just use barely enough to seal crack.  Not sure which big hole you are talking about.  If it is the football cut out between sfb and chamber, than that may be where most of your smell is coming from.  You may have to take that off, clean and re-seal.

I just laid a small 1/8" bead around the opening and around the bolt holes.  I placed the bead about 1/2" to 3/4"  from inside edge.  It's sealed up tight, and no RTV showing on inside or outside, and no smell.  I did use the higher temp rated  bronze colered rtv between the sfb and barrel tho'.

I wouldn't worry about the CG Emblem.  I get no smoke at all from mine, and even if I did, I wouldn't worry about it.  It will minimal as it's just riveted on with small rivets.

Hope this helps you.


----------



## daveinflorida (Sep 20, 2013)

FP,
There was a hole there as a space to put a thermoter which I found a package of two on Amazon but the stems are way smaller than that hole so I just sealed that up and drilled two new ones on either side of the cooking box.  I will have to do like you said and get a wire brush and scrap off all the excess from inside the firebox in hopes that the excess I have is gone and won't contribute the chemical smell. In the firebox, I had even put the RTC in holes I can see that had no screw so I sealed that up too. I'll scrap all of that off and seal from the bottom/outside since you can't see it directly.  Lots of work but it will be worth it once I can get to cook in it safely.  Thanks for all the advice. I'll update as I'm doing it.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes (Sep 20, 2013)

One thing I've noticed with my CGSP is that there are A LOT of variables in how the temps run.  The amount of food and location on the grill can wildly alter temps from one side of the grate to the other.  I've modded mine pretty heavily, so YMMV.  The most consistent I've had it run is using a water pan.  That seems to do a lot in terms of keeping temps level.  But it also held my temps in check, so I went through a lot more fuel and made the smokes run longer.  I've used sand as a temp regulator as well, but I don't think it's as good as water.  Sand will heat above 212*, where water won't.

Honestly, I think the reason for variance in food v. no food on the grates is how the air moves through the chamber.  I seem to do best when I leave about 2" gaps between what I'm smoking.  When I'm placing it, I think of the pork butt as a tuning plate of sorts.  

Anyway, others have reported keeping theirs dead nuts on across the grate, but I haven't been able to do it consistently.  It happens from time to time, but there is nothing out of the ordinary for me to see 20* variance from one side of the grate to the other.  So I've learned to rely on my IT readings.  That's the most important thing, after all.  But then again, I usually do pork.  I would be a little more cautious about it if I were going to do a brisket.

Another thing to consider is how long you're leaving the hood down before checking.  On the rare occasion that I do lift the lid for one reason or another during a smoke, it can take quite a while before the temps even out inside the chamber.  I think this is due, at least in part, to how thin the metal is.  The metal basically holds in the air, where on a heavier smoker the metal will do a lot more to radiate heat, leveling out your temps faster.

Anywho, just my $0.02.


----------



## fpmich (Sep 20, 2013)

DaveinFlorida said:


> FP,
> There was a hole there as a space to put a thermoter which I found a package of two on Amazon but the stems are way smaller than that hole so I just sealed that up and drilled two new ones on either side of the cooking box. I will have to do like you said and get a wire brush and scrap off all the excess from inside the firebox in hopes that the excess I have is gone and won't contribute the chemical smell. In the firebox, I had even put the RTC in holes I can see that had no screw so I sealed that up too. I'll scrap all of that off and seal from the bottom/outside since you can't see it directly. Lots of work but it will be worth it once I can get to cook in it safely. Thanks for all the advice. I'll update as I'm doing it.


*Ahhh... the ole really big hole for the CG therm!*

What I did was just put it in anyways.  I put a very small amt. of rtv just under the lip of it on the outside, stuck it in and placed the snap ring in it to secure it.  Iit sealed up very well.  If you still have that thermomenter around, I would remove the big gob of sealant, and install  that therm, even though you aren't going to use it.  Or you could always rivet a piece of steel under it, and seal it that way.


----------



## fpmich (Sep 21, 2013)

ThsMormonSmokes... YMMV (?)  That's a new one for me.  I'm new to forums, so give me a hint friend. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






I agree with you and Jarjarchef on variance of temps causes across the grill now.  Just wasn't expecting it after my test burns.  But I know now that I just have to use it, learn it, and try temporary solutions out before I hard wire them, if you know what I mean.

You're right on opening lid for whatever reason.  I don't even bother looking at temps for at least 20 minutes after opening, or I'll do some stupid like added more fuel or changing intake damper.


----------



## fpmich (Sep 21, 2013)

Well, I finally got some photo's, showing what I have done.  But I can't seem to upload them into post.

I keep getting this message:

*Some images failed to upload:*

Stack.JPG - An error occurred while uploading the file
*You can try re-selecting them and uploading again.*

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## fpmich (Sep 23, 2013)

*Photo's of mods so far on CGSP.   I'm real happy with it so far!*

I was actually smoking some food when I took this photos.  Fire going in sfb with just enough smoke.

But in photo's it looks like I don't even have a fire going, because smoke was so thin that when I opened lid for photo, it disappeared.

*Chimney extended* down to just above grate level.

I need to put a hook or screw to hold it from touching my therm. That touching may have affected my reading on that side.













1-Stack.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






*High temp stove rope in channel* held in place with bead of Red RTV around lid works real well!













2-Rope-seal-1.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






Used sealant between sfb and chamber, but just a small unbroken bead about 1/8" thick around the bolt holes and the cutout.

I kept the bead about 3/4" from any edges so it wouldn't squish out.  If you look closely, you'll see two tiny spots of sealant near edge.

No smoke leaking at all from here.













4-Sfb.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






Using Red RTV I mounted rope to *back of lower barrel* for top lid to seal onto when closed.













3-Back-seal.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






*Was able to hold these temps steady* for about 3 hours













5-Temps.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






*with this small fire.*   I did add lump and dry maple branch for smoke from time to time, but it pretty much stayed this size throughout.

This was actually near the end of cooking.  Notice the damper wide open.  Just trying to milk that last bit of heat out.  Most of the cook I had it opened about 1/3.  I can't wait until I get my basket made for it and see how long my burns and temps last then.













6-Fire.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






to cook these Beans and Scalloped Potatoes fully.  You can't see it but the potatoes were actually bubbling hot!













7-Beans-Taters.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






I smoked some sausage too, but didn't get a pic of them before I put them in fridge to cool. sorry

*TBS (Thin Blue Smoke)  *just like it should be,* with no leaks! *













TBS.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Sep 24, 2013






Over all it has performed better than I expected even with mods.  I'm very pleased so far.

I can't wait to see how long, and what temps I can hold for length of time, after I get my expanded steel basket made.

Hopefully this next week sometime.

*DaveInFlorida.... I hope this helps you out a bit.*   Notice how little "RED" you see.


----------



## jarjarchef (Sep 23, 2013)

Looks great! I really like the rope channel. 

Unless you are keeping it under a cover or inside a shed/garage. I would invest in a cover for your smoker. My first one lasted over 5 years with a cover. My second one only lasted about 2 years without one. 

I have seen some who smoke in the colder weather up north use a welding blanket to cover the cook chamber to help keep it at temp during cooks. Not sure if you plan to smoke during the winter, but it's a thought. They find them cheap on Harbor Freight.


----------



## fpmich (Sep 23, 2013)

Thanks jarjarchef.  Your opinion means a lot to me.

I didn't use a channel on back.  Just rtv on lower unit then clamped rope to it.  I was afraid a channel would interfere with the lid closing properly.

I don't have the CG Cover, but I do keep a tarp on it when not in use.  I just empty hot leftover coals out and open both lids and let it cool for an hour or so, then go back out and cover with tarp.  If it rains, then I don't cover, or open it, until it is done raining.  Build a very small fire to warm it up and get all water evaporated, then cool and cover.  I have a soup can to cover the chimney if I have to leave it in rain for a day or two.

Keeping my eyes open to used cheap or free welding blanket too.  Elderly lady next door does upholstery work.  I bet she could cut it to size and seal the edged for me.  She a sweetheart.  Looks like the grandma from the Tweety Bird cartoons.  lol


----------



## fpmich (Sep 24, 2013)

I've been using Royal Oak Lump from Walmart so far.  It's pricey buying it in 8.8 lb bags from them.   I think it was 7 or bucks per 8 lb bag.

Then I read in the forums that GFS brand lump is actually made by Royal Oak.  I bought a 20 lb bag for 13.99 plus tax.  Will be using that for my next cook as I've used all the leftover Kingsford I had, as well as almost all of the 2 bags of RO I bought.  I used some at a party this weekend.

I'll let you know if the GFS works OK for me.


----------



## fpmich (Sep 26, 2013)

Basket for sfb on it's way! * It's cheaper to have them do it!*

I was going to try to make my own basket with expanded steel from Home Depot.  But I also knew that I wouldn't be able to do right without welder or tools and vice.

On a tip from my brother, I went to a steel fabricating company near me.  I was worried that having it done by them would be more than I could afford, but decided to check and see anyway this afternoon.

They said they could make it to my dimensions of 12"X10"X5" with welded corners, as well as weld a thick wire rim on top (my request) to prevent cuts to my hands when handling. The wire thing on top cost me a whopping $2 bucks extra! LOL $20.00 for the whole thing! I was VERY happy with that! I can pick it up tomorrow. They are quick!

Home Depot sells 24X24 expanded steel pieces for 19.97 plus tax. 21.17 total for just the piece.  So I'm WAY ahead of the game with no effort on my part.

So my advice is to try to find a steel  company first.  If not, then DIY.  But having them do it for 20 buck is a deal in my book!

I also saved difficulty on how to hang it, so I could pull ash drawer out to empty without disturbing coals.  I have a couple of porcelain

 grates that I salvaged from a discarded gas grill and have been using in my grill to lay right on hot coals for initial hot sear of steaks.  Then I move steaks up to normal grill to finish.  Anyway, one of those fits perfectly inside firebox.  It rests on two bolts where sfb is attached and the guide for the ash drawer.  So all I have to do is set my new basket on top of it.  I will have plenty of air flow under and around, plus can empty ash when needed with no fuss!  How cool is that?!!

Can't wait to try it out this week.

Will try to post pic when I get it, if I am able.


----------



## jarjarchef (Sep 28, 2013)

20 bucks for a baskets sounds like a great deal.....


----------



## fpmich (Sep 28, 2013)

They didn't have it ready until a day later and then when I went in to pick it up, I discovered that they had forgot to add the 1//4" wire around the top.  I told them I would take it like it was.  I said so without the wire it is $18.00?  "Nope,* just give me $15.00 *and we'll be square" he replied.

Good deal!  Guess I didn't want that wire as bad as I thought I wanted it.  Sometimes mistakes work in your favor.

Cooked 3 slabs of baby backs and some potatoes with it for some visiting friends.  Basket did make a big difference.  Will have to post pic of basket size and the grate I set it on later.  Wife had the camera phone and was off touring with our friends.


----------



## daveinflorida (Oct 2, 2013)

Well that's where I messed up.  I put a major glob and filled in that hole and all other holes I saw on the "inside" of the grill with the red RTV. I believe that's why I have such a major chemical smell because I thought it would all cure and not smell and/or burn down to where you wouldnt smell it all.  So I have to scrap it all off, appy it on the outside/underside of the grill to seal the small holes and then clean the inside with mean green cleaner and re-start my seasoning to see if the smell burns off.  Its still hot here in Florida so I have some time to do it a bit each day and still get in the pool. :)


----------



## fpmich (Oct 2, 2013)

Yeah, don't afraid to start over Dave.  That is one of the best learning tools we have.  LOL

I've discovered that my smoker isn't as tight as I thought.

Looks just fine in my photos when there is a breeze, but on a still air day? Another story!

I've got smoke and heat pouring out in a lot of places I didn't know about.  So I will be re-fitting channel with 3/4" stock and 3/4", or even 1" rope in channel.  I think 3/4" will work best on the back.  I may even try to put some flat rope on the sfb lid.  Not sure on that though, because the air vent is quite small on this box.  I may need the leaks around the sfb to supplement the intake.

Live and learn I guess.   Sigh....

It so much fun tinkering tho, that I don't mind it too much.

It still does a commendable job of hold temps right now tho.

Going to cook 4 slabs of KC cut ribs today.


----------



## daveinflorida (Oct 2, 2013)

Well you can see from my pics how I applied my red rtv.













Red RTV 1.jpg



__ daveinflorida
__ Oct 2, 2013


















Red RTV 2.jpg



__ daveinflorida
__ Oct 2, 2013


----------



## thsmormonsmokes (Oct 2, 2013)

Sorry for the late reply.  Work, you know.

YMMV = your mileage may vary.

I've used a piano blanket to insulate my cooking chamber during colder smokes.  It helps, but I've had to be very careful to make sure it doesn't touch the firebox.  Let's just say my piano blanket doesn't look as new as it did a year ago.  Lots of little scorch holes in it.  I've just been too lazy to go buy a welding blanket.


----------



## fpmich (Oct 3, 2013)

*HOLY COW Dave!  No wonder it smells clear over to the neighbors house.  LOL*

*Clean all that out and start over.*

Dave have you read this thread? http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/58778/char-griller-smokin-pro-with-firebox-mods

It is 21 pages, so a very long read, but everything I've done mostly came from that thread.

Mormon, thanks for the translation.

*Here is a photo of my charcoal basket after burning for 3 hours.*













CoalBasket.jpg



__ fpmich
__ Oct 3, 2013






It's a little smaller than most use, but I get good air flow all the way around.  You can see on the left,  that grate I put in to rest it on.

The smoking wood flared up when I opened the door to take pic.

*Here is the product of todays smoke*













ribs-1.jpg



__ fpmich
__ Oct 3, 2013






Spare Ribs were pretty durned good.


----------



## fpmich (Nov 20, 2013)

a different mod for char-grill coming up.  Will post tomorrow if site lets me post pics.  Having trouble tonight whit that.


----------



## daveinflorida (Nov 20, 2013)

I cleaned/scraped it all off with Mean Green as suggested. I still lean in and smell the chemicals. Gonna use straight oak wood on saturday to see if I can get a good smoke/burn to kill off the remaining smell.  We'll see.


----------



## fpmich (Nov 21, 2013)

I Dave, good to see you again.

When you cleaned it off, did you actually disassemble where you had to most of it inside, then clean and re-assemble with a minimal amount of sealer as possible?  I think that is what I would've done.

But if you just scraped and cleaned inside the best you could and none is showing.  Give it a good scrubbing with detergent, rinse well with hose and  then, build a BIG bed of hot coals in the cooking chamber itself and let it get to 500-600* or so, for awhile and then just let the coals burn them selves out.  That will take a few hours, so be patient.  That may do it, but *remember you are dealing with high heat resistant sealent*.  You'll have to re-season it after the high burn

I'm just guessing here, but it's the best guess I can think of.  I used very little in my assembling to avoid this.  If that super hot burn don't take care of it, then you will have to disassemble everything, clean and start over including seasoning it.

Let me know how it turns out.


----------



## fpmich (Nov 22, 2013)

*Here is a little different mod.*   Simple, but it works.













Baffle%20001.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Nov 22, 2013





stead of turning ash pan over and trying to position it just right, I left the ash pan right side up as high as it will go.

Then just used those cheap disposable lids to those foil serving pans.  One small and one large. They kind of overlap a bit.

You can see I snipped a couple of slots so that I could get the lids right next to the wall. 













Smoking%20010.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Nov 22, 2013






Same on other side too.













Smoking%20011.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Nov 22, 2013






Now you have a flat surface that you can set water pans and the like under the grill.

With the grate flipped upside down, you don't have that option so easily.













Smoking%20009.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Nov 22, 2013


















Smoking%20004.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Nov 22, 2013






I took a pic with the grill over both pans, but camera decided to quit working.  Anyway, It'll fit.

But smoke was just the same as if I had flipped charcoal pan upside down. 

Except this way, I can set water pans easily without try to balance on curved surface.













Smoke-w-lids%20004.JPG



__ fpmich
__ Nov 22, 2013






Now that I know it work okay, I will try to fit lids a little bit better, and maybe punch a few holes down the center for smoke.

This cheap trick opens possibilities.  We can slide bricks or shallow sand pans into the coal grate for heat retention. 

Do your own thing with it.

*Note:  You "DO" have to watch rust on your cast iron food grates when water pans.*    It seems to remove grates seasoning a bit.

Brush off and coat with oil after removing water pans, and let remaining coals burn to re-season your grates.


----------



## jarjarchef (Nov 22, 2013)

Very cool mod Thumbs Up
I am not a fan of the water in my cook chamber, so I would lay some heat treated tiles on top of the pan lids for a heat sync, but a very cool way of looking at solution.


----------



## daveinflorida (Nov 22, 2013)

No. I bought some of permatex' sealant remover and used that, scraped off everything visible, washed the entire grill on the inside with mean green and did a good washing. I'm ready to try it out tomorrow.  When it gets light tomorrow, I'll take some pics of how it looks now. I plan to start a fire with some charcoals but put in oak to get it good and hot and hopefully burn off any remaining residue.


----------



## fpmich (Nov 22, 2013)

I'm not a fan of water pans either jarjarchef, but I had to use them with some fish I was smoking.  I kept getting too hard of pellicle. 

Water pans helped that, but then took a little seasoning off my grills. 

But the thing with this is just by not turning ash pan upside down, you have a level surface to do whatever you want with it.  You could use cookie sheets or just steel sheet.  You can make holes for more smoke if you want.  Use bricks, sand.

No matter what, you have a level surface for it.

Dave,  Good luck.  Make sure you have hot coals end to end for good high heat.  I think I would also stoke of the side fire box at same time.

It that don't go it for you, maybe contact Permatex or Grill manufacture for help.

I feel for you Dave.  These kind of things can drive a person nuts.  I hope it turns out well for you.


----------



## daveinflorida (Nov 23, 2013)

So you're saying I should have a bed of coals in the cooking chamber AND the firebox in order to try and burn out the smell?


----------



## jarjarchef (Nov 23, 2013)

DaveinFlorida said:


> So you're saying I should have a bed of coals in the cooking chamber AND the firebox in order to try and burn out the smell?



I would do just that. It will burn off any residue you have in there. I would get the temps up over 400 and let it ride for a couple hours. Now you will need to touch up some of the paint on the outside. Then wipe down the inside with a cloth with oil and season the smoker......... Do not put any food in until burned out and seasoned. That is what I would do.....


----------



## daveinflorida (Nov 23, 2013)

Cool. I will do that today then my friend and see how it smells.  Now I was also thinking of putting some sticks of oak wood on top of the coals to help with the burn and killing the smell.  Thoughts?


----------



## jarjarchef (Nov 23, 2013)

I would add the oak during the seasoning step. However if you are just cleaning up some trimmings I don't see it hurting it.


----------



## fpmich (Nov 24, 2013)

Yep, what jarjar said. 

First burn, you just want high heat to burn everything inside.  Then after it cools, wipe inside down with damp cloths to remove anything burnt off in the process, THEN coat everything well with oil,  Complete inside of barrel, top and bottom including firebox.

Then when you start your seasoning process fire, you could use a little wood I suppose.

PS, send a little heat up here.  It's 7* right now outside!


----------



## daveinflorida (Dec 24, 2013)

Well I did a big burn 2 weeks ago and had briquettes in the SFB and in the cooking chamber along with a good piece of oak and let it burn.  Did my first food cook last saturday.  Finally, no chemical smell and the meat turned out perfect!  Thanks for everyone's help.  Also, as much as I scrapped off the red rtv, i thought I would have smoke seeping out, but it didnt so now on to bigger meats.  Thanks again guys.


----------



## fpmich (Dec 24, 2013)

You got it without dismantling!   Good Job Dave. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Glad it all worked for you.

Merry Christmas to you and yours.


----------



## jarjarchef (Dec 25, 2013)

:sausage: Great Job!

Yes now let's see it in use!

Have a Merry Christmas!


----------



## daveinflorida (Dec 28, 2013)

yep.  I did a turkey breast yesterday and the weirdest thing.  As the temps was dropping in the cooking chamber down to about 200, i started to smell the chemicals again.  I needed to bring my temps back up to around 250 to keep the turkey going and the smell went away.  I'm doing 4 racks of ribs and chicken for new years day so will take pics and post. We're having about 20 people over for a new years day hangover party. I'll probably still be hammered from the nite before. Should be a good time. :)


----------



## fpmich (Jan 20, 2014)

Have you had your smeller calibrated lately Dave?  LOL

Ask a few other people to tell you what they smell when you are cooking.  Don't tell them" what smell" you are looking for. 

Pretend you are testing their smellers to identify the flavors or something.  And they will tell you if it smells off or not.

Kind of like a blind smell test.  You may be still smelling it, because you are worrying about it, and thinking of what it was like before.

Post some pics of the inside now that you've cleaned it up.  If you've done as good a job as it sounds like, I bet you have it licked.

If you didn't clean off the excess from on outside of unit, then maybe that is what you are smelling.


----------



## jarjarchef (Jan 20, 2014)

I know with the 4-5 I have owned or used over the past 9 years, I would get a bit of a chemical smell as the paint they use burns off the fire box or even the cook chamber.

I would agree that it sounds like you have addressed the issue.


----------



## misterc01 (Jul 30, 2014)

For RTV: went to eBay and got FDA food safe  RTV good to 500 degrees. Anything above 500 degrees and I am burning the grill out. Used wax paper vice saran wrap. On SFB let weight of  lid determine the sealing, and then ran bead outside and used putty knife to ensure a nice near t seal.  sealed around all openings using alight indie at night to ID leak points. On main chamber, want to see how the overlap does for sealing it.


----------



## pilch (Dec 3, 2014)

Hi! All, I'm a newbie from down under and have been gathering info from all over the place but since joining this forum I don't stray any more.

I'm into my first cook as we speak, a brisket of about 3 3/4 lbs. (I've got to speak American as all the info on this site is in American LOL) and am using Jeff's rub.

I will admit I was rather worried this morning when I started and had no idea about the fire/heat arrangement, I loaded up the fire box with a truck load of bricketts and away I went and so did the heat.

I soon realised that I was about 2/3's of a truck load too many bricketts so removed 25 to start with and then another 10 later on. I have my temp. down to 220F now and the meat has an IT of 108F.

I am using a mixture of smoking chips brought from a major hardware chain but am not sure as to what amount I need for this meat.

I am pleased to have found these threads with all this info for new comers and I'm somewhat calmer now after reading this info.

I few things I'd like to know is (1) what is the reason for extending the smoke stack to just above the grill plate and is there any reason for it to be placed in the front L/H corner?. (2) how many bricketts should one use for an average temp of say 225/250F ?. (3) how much smoke chips should be used?.

Reading about your fire crate I was thinking why don't you have a half dozen made up and sell then for say $30 ea.

Well it looks like I've come to my first "stuck temp" so I had better pop out and check things.

Cheers from down under.


----------



## oldschoolbbq (Dec 3, 2014)

fpmich , I'll try to help , I bought one and it's sitting out rusting , gave-up on the Mods, I didn't have the stock or tools to do the Mods... here were my ideas...

*1.* Could I do it with just one upside down L angle stock (just the bottom angle stock in his pics).
Then lay an adhesive bead & stove rope (round or flat).  The lid should sit & seal itself on the rope wouldn't it?.

Yes.a good silicone adhesive will work (get high temp.)

*2.* Any reason not to use aluminum with rivets or screws, as opposed to steel & bolts for this?  Conflict with metals? Steel rusts.

 , add a drop of Lock

Actually , I believe the Steel ones will do , 'hint , drop a spot of Lock Tight ' to each nut  to keep them from loosening from the Contraction  , and  Expnsion of the metal during cooking nd in

Winter.

*I will be using* my Char Griller Smokin Pro, for *both smoking & direct grilling.*

You will have no trouble , here is a good bit of reading that may help you . . . http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/a/stickburning101

*3.* Temperature question:  Will direct grilling exceed the temperature limits on the Permetex high heat sealants like the Red (500*F) or Copper (700*F) and cause either of them to fail?

No.

*4.* I know that most of you use the Permetex Red.  Any reason not to use the higher heat rated Copper?  Is there a problem I don't recognize?

Get the highest heat you want , that's your choice and pocketbook.

*5.* Any reason not to have smoke stack extended down to great for direct grilling?  Probably a silly question.  I can see no reason for it to interfere.

Yes, you get a better smoke flow over your Meat . The heat (and Smoke( rise and cross above the Meat .

That should be easy to understand ... 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






*Thanks in advance for your help.*   Don't get too technical on me tho'.  I'm a simple guy.

KISS principle apply's to me.  Keep It Stupid Simple!

Have fun and don't give up on the Smoker , I hear lots of good input on these units , once Modded .

Have fun and     . . .


----------



## misterc01 (Dec 4, 2014)

1. Look at the grill with the to open, and you will see that there would be a line from where the heat/smoke enters the main cooking chamber directly to the upper left corner where the stack is. So,  by putting in an extension so  down to the lower left corner above the cooking surface, you force the heat and smoke (mostly the smoke) to travel across the entire cooking surface and transfer to  your briskets (or what ever you are smoking.

2. Borrowing from our Dutch oven users,  The normal formula for *Baking* is to use twice the number of briquettes as the diameter of the oven.   For a 12 inch oven, you would use 24 briquettes. Figuring the temp in the oven ins about 350 degrees, you can do a lot of measuring and do the math. Since I  have more than one smoker, I now just  figured mine by trial and error and kept good notes. 

3. Sealing - I use FDA approved High Temp caulk good to about 600 degrees. Since we are smoking at 200-350 degrees, should be no problem and I have had none.

4. I made my stack extension from aluminum with stainless steel rings and no problem. I also have a set of Guardian Service aluminum cook ware and the FDA says it is safe.  So........................

 My main suggestion is to  keep a smoking log - Several available on line (or set up your own) and refine your techniques. That way you will always have a starting point for  whatever you are smoking, and you still have to monitor and adjust as you go.  Have fun!!!!!!


----------



## captainwoody (Mar 25, 2015)

Looks like I got some modding to do. I just picked this smoker up and I'm leaking like a sieve.


----------

