# Fine tuning Mypin PID T-Series Question



## ryans01z28 (Feb 11, 2018)

I have the auto tune set up but it over shoots just a little. I have my target temp at 99.5 and it stays at 100.1-100.2. Any idea how to further adjust this pid to get it closer other than lower my target temp? Maybe that’s what I should do but I was pretty sure there’s a setting I can adjust. Here’s a pic that shows my target at 99.3


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## JckDanls 07 (Feb 11, 2018)

first off... what are you trying to hold this temp in ??  looks like it might be a homemade smokehouse (plywood). what's the size of the smoker ? but anyways..  unless it is COMPLETELY air tight holding at an exact set point (99.3) is going to be nearly impossible. If you read directions carefully I BELIEVE you can change the calibration and should be able to get it to read what the set point is. But will that be what the actual temp is I'm not sure .. see what others say..  I may be off a little ...


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## ryans01z28 (Feb 11, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> first off... what are you trying to hold this temp in ??  looks like it might be a homemade smokehouse (plywood). what's the size of the smoker ? but anyways..  unless it is COMPLETELY air tight holding at an exact set point (99.3) is going to be nearly impossible. If you read directions carefully I BELIEVE you can change the calibration and should be able to get it to read what the set point is. But will the be what the actual temp is I'm not sure .. see what others say..  I may be off a little ...


Well it’s not a smoker. Yes I know this is a smoking meat forum but I had guy help me on here with my smoker pid and there was lots of helpful ppl on here so I’m asking for help again on this project that requires a pid. You are correct it’s a plywood box. I can hold the temp with in .3* but the reading is higher than my target temp. I looked at the manual but they are not very good at explaining much in it.


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## JckDanls 07 (Feb 11, 2018)

do you see anything in instructions about calibrating the probe ??


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## jwed980 (Feb 12, 2018)

You can adjust the "input offset" parameter.

I think entering a value of -0.7 ought to do it.

-John


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## jwed980 (Feb 12, 2018)

Oops-that's not going to fix it. Sorry.

Manual states auto tune values should be reduced by 5-10 % if trying to control a large thermal mass.

You might at least try reducing the integral term and see what happens.


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## sweenner (Feb 13, 2018)

As someone that works with these types of controllers on a daily basis, I can tell you that the adjustments can be made. BUT...if you aren’t really careful, you can throw the whole thing out of wack pretty quick (experience). 

If you are holding at .3 degrees variance on a plywood box that isn’t sealed air tight, I would run with that all day! I have some environmental chambers that can only hold a half degree tolerance AT BEST. Just out of curiosity, why do you want to get it tighter?


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## sweenner (Feb 13, 2018)

Jckdanls07 has a good point about the probe. What type are you using, and do you know that IT is reading accurate?


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## ryans01z28 (Feb 25, 2018)

Thanks everyone for replying. I got my pid adjusted now. Had to change an offset in the program. It holds really tight now


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

I have one other question. I auto tuned my pid and now the output light constantly flashes. I can set my target temp lower than the actual internal temp and it keeps flashing. Any idea how or what I should do? It’s done this before and seems like I had to just adjust them temp a few times and then it works but it’s not working this time


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## dward51 (Mar 3, 2018)

Offset is a correction when the displayed temp is not what the actual temp is.  For example, the PID reads 100 degrees but using a known accurate thermometer the actual temp is 104 degrees.  You would change the offset value so that the PID would read 104 also.  It does not change the process temp (temp inside the box), just what reads on the PID display.  Think of it as display calibration. In the MYPIN setup menu it should show "PUF" (or a broken bar simulation of this) when you are in the input offset parameter.  Was that the setting you changed and are calling offset?  If not, what did the display show for the type of setting you changed?

I assume this is the egg incubator you messaged me about. That would explain the tight band of temps and range of temps you are describing here.

If you can make the box less leaky to heat that will help.  Insulation is one way (and recommended if it's not already insulated).  I don't know anything about incubating eggs, but if you have any air flow such as in an air inlet and exhaust, that could affect the stability of the system.  I would presume there must be "some" airflow.

I went back and looked at some of our earlier messages and I have another suggestion.  I would leave the 12v air circulation fan *on* 100% of the time and not tie it to the PID control.  With the fan being off as the temp drops and the PID determines heat is needed, from the way you described the setup, the fan and heat are coming on at the same time.  You likely have a fairly stagnant air area around the temp sensor with the fan off.  So the sensor may be at one temp with the remainder of the incubator at other temps (temps as in some hotter and some colder in different parts of the box).  To leave the air circulation fan on 100% of the time, you would be insuring more even temps throughout the entire incubator and the PID is only dealing with one change at a time (ie, adding heat, not having to deal with adding heat and the now blowing fan moving air of different temps).  I think shutting the air circulation fan off with the heating element is contributing to your temp swings and leaving it on all the time will tighten the band up more.

As to the flashing....  That normally indicates there is a voltage being output to the SSR to control the process (turn it on, and in this case apply heat).  So you are saying that the desired set temp is "A" and the PID is indicating the actual temp inside the box is higher than "A" and the output is flashing (as in turning the SSR and heater on), correct?  Did you change any other values besides offset when you went into the setup menu?  Also is the "OUT1" light flashing at a stead rate like an error indicator, or is it pulsing like when the heating element is on?  Is the SSR LED also flashing in concert with the "OUT1" led?  If it is, then the PID is trying to heat the incubator.

Follow up question (probably should be the first question).  Did the auto tune complete?  The "AT" light should go out and stay out.  Also auto tune is persistent, so did you shut the PID off and turn it back on?  It should hold the programming.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

Everything is insulated. I have 3 fans continuously running circulating the air. I already adjusted the offset along time ago  it now reads correct as it should. My problem seems to be after I hit the auto tune. It keeps turning the heat on and off after it’s completed the auto tune cycle. I can have the box at 100* and set the pid target temp to 30* and it just flashes. It doesn’t stay on constant. If the target temp is set to 100* and it’s 105* in the box the light should not be flashing at all until the temp gets within .3* or whatever it is then it should turn it on and off. I tried to upload a video but won’t let me


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## dward51 (Mar 3, 2018)

I would power it down completely and once powered up, run the auto tune again.   Make sure it completes before changing anything on the PID.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

That’s what I’m doing again. I’ll keep you posted


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 3, 2018)

thinking that it's going to still heat a lil bit just to bring temps down gradually... if it just turns off then temps are gonna fall below set point to quick (or to far) below...  did it come back down to 100` from the 105 ` you said ?? If you notice when it auto tunes it will rise above set point and then drop below set point a few times before finally settling in ...


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> thinking that it's going to still heat a lil bit just to bring temps down gradually... if it just turns off then temps are gonna fall below set point to quick (or to far) below...  did it come back down to 100` from the 105 ` you said ?? If you notice when it auto tunes it will rise above set point and then drop below set point a few times before finally settling in ...


No it would keep going up. I shut it down and trying it again now


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 3, 2018)

Sounds like it was still going through auto tune ..


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> Sounds like it was still going through auto tune ..


The Auto tune light was off so it should of been complete


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

I got thinking after I hit auto tune I changed the target temp. I wonder if that’s where I got messed up. I prob can’t touch it once i hit auto tune. I’m still waiting for it to auto tune.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

So after the auto tune shut off my target temp is at 99.7* and the box temp is sitting at 102.-103* and the output light is still flashing. It should not even be on with the temp up that high


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

So I switched out thermocouple and I still get the same results. Not sure what’s going on


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## dward51 (Mar 3, 2018)

If you changed the target temp, I would redo the auto tune from scratch.  Once you push auto tune and start the cycle, just walk away and don't touch it.  Sometimes an auto tune cycle can take a long long time (well over an hour).

Also did you change anything else in the setup menu (Other than the offset?).


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 3, 2018)

dward51 said:


> If you changed the target temp, I would redo the auto tune from scratch.  Once you push auto tune and start the cycle, just walk away and don't touch it.  Sometimes an auto tune cycle can take a long long time (well over an hour).
> 
> Also did you change anything else in the setup menu (Other than the offset?).


I can’t remember if I changed anything else. I don’t think I did??? I redone the auto tune 3-4 times already. Twice with the new thermocouple. I waited till the green light went out. Doesn’t make scene. It seemed to be working fine until I auto tuned it.  I thought I’d just auto tune it another time just in case. That’s what I get I guess. I ordered another pid in case I need to switch them out. I could always get the one from my smoker to I suppose. Pm me your email and I’ll send you a video if you want to see what it’s doing.


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## dward51 (Mar 4, 2018)

Step through the menu and verify the "control type" setting is set to "HEAt".  The value should show up as "oUd" on the display top and "HEAt" on the bottom. If it shows "COOL" change it (up/down arrows).  Also make sure the input device type is set to what type of temp sensor you have. Top display value for this setting is "InP" and bottom will be either K for K type, J for J type, E for E type, S for S type, Pt for Pt100 RTD type or Ln for Cu50 RTD type sensors.  J, K and Pt100 are the most common.

If that's not it, step through each of the setting and write them down and post them.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 4, 2018)

Well I auto tuned it this morning at around 7 and just came in the house and it seems to be holding temp right were I want it so idk what to say. Maybe it needed more time or something. I can drop the desired temp 10* and the light still flashes


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 4, 2018)

al1-104*
AO1-1
Al2-200*
AO2-2
PUF-92.6*
Inp-y
P-3.82
I-367.5
D-91.87
Oud-heat
Hys-1.0
Ctl-001
Trl-0.0
Trh-100.0
Bsl-pid
Lcy-000


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## dward51 (Mar 4, 2018)

What type of thermocouple are you using?


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 4, 2018)

dward51 said:


> What type of thermocouple are you using?


K type. It seems to be holding temp. I have eggs in there now so I hope it works. Does everything look right?


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## dward51 (Mar 4, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> al1-104*
> AO1-1
> Al2-200*
> AO2-2
> ...



That offset value is way screwed up.  This is indicating your display temp is 92.6* off from the real world temp.  Also the InP - y value is a K type thermocouple.  If the thermocouple is configured as the wrong type the temp range is usually skewed.  What type of thermocouple are you using?


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 4, 2018)

dward51 said:


> That offset value is way screwed up.  This is indicating your display temp is 92.6* off from the real world temp.  Also the InP - y value is a K type thermocouple.  If the thermocouple is configured as the wrong type the temp range is usually skewed.  What type of thermocouple are you using?


This is what I’m using


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 4, 2018)

I also tried this one but it seemed screwy


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## dward51 (Mar 5, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> K type. It seems to be holding temp. I have eggs in there now so I hope it works. Does everything look right?



If you have eggs in there and it appears to be working correctly. I would not touch a thing.  Also after the eggs are done, I would step through the menu and write down every setting (if different from what you posted earlier).  At least you know that set of values is working.   But that offset value is way weird (again, if it's working - leave it alone for now).


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 5, 2018)

Yea it seems to be working so idk. Why is that value weird?


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 5, 2018)

I had to open my incubator to grab my thermometer in there and after I closed it the temp hit 107* which it should never be at so there is something that is not right with this pid yet


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## dward51 (Mar 5, 2018)

You said the offset was 92.6.  That means you are changing the display value by 92.6 degrees so it will match the real world temp measurement.

How an offset value works is if your pit is at 100* and the display reads 90* you want a positive 10.0 offset to raise the display value to match the real world pit value.  If the pit was 100* and the display read 110* you would need a -10.0 offset to lower the display value to match the real world pit value.  Offset is just an adjustment to the display (think of it as display calibration).  It should not affect how the PID actually performs.

Basically a positive 92.6 offset would mean your display was reading 7.4* when the pit temp was 100*.  That is why I said it is weird/off.  

Double check the temp probe and see what codes are stamped on the code.  Not like someone never shipped the wrong part in an order before and J vs K thermocouples will not read correctly if the PID is set for the wrong type.

If it settles back down from the 107* spike, I would leave it alone until this run of eggs is completed.  It just may be a spike from where you opened the unit.


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 5, 2018)

If it were me... I would just do a default reset and start over with Dave's guidance ...


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## dward51 (Mar 5, 2018)

Hey, I just had a thought.

I think this design would be super stable and it would be using known technology that is plug and play.  Basically an insulated outer box that contains a flat tray of water with a sous vide unit to control the water (tray would need to be deep enough for the sous vide to work).  Eggs sit on top above the water on some sort of rack and add an air circulation fan.  Concept would be the water is a larger thermal mass that would tend to hold a steady temp.  A sous vide unit like the Anova Bluetooth model is about $100 and known to be super precise (0.01 degree variance from set point once at temp).  Unless the moist air environment would be a problem, it should work.  Just add a small tube and viewing port so you can add water as needed without actually opening the insulated container.

Essentially you could take a el-cheapo igloo cooler and modify it with a raised rack for your egg holder and mount everything else in the top of the cooler.  In theory water at x temp in a somewhat sealed environment would heat the air and eggs to x temp and hold it there.  Again I know squat about hatching eggs, so humidity might be a deal killer.

When not running a hatch of eggs, you can cook with it!!!

Something like this


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 5, 2018)

dward51 said:


> You said the offset was 92.6.  That means you are changing the display value by 92.6 degrees so it will match the real world temp measurement.
> 
> How an offset value works is if your pit is at 100* and the display reads 90* you want a positive 10.0 offset to raise the display value to match the real world pit value.  If the pit was 100* and the display read 110* you would need a -10.0 offset to lower the display value to match the real world pit value.  Offset is just an adjustment to the display (think of it as display calibration).  It should not affect how the PID actually performs.
> 
> ...


I know how the offset works I guess and I don’t see anything wrong there?? I just adjust to correct it like you explained. 

As far as a stamp on the probe I do not see one on the other probe I have and the chances of me getting 2 wrong probes are slim to non. They are k type probs. It did settle down after I decreased the temp 20* and brought it back up. There’s something not right but idk what it is. I never did hook up my pid from my smoker but I did order a new one.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 5, 2018)

dward51 said:


> Hey, I just had a thought.
> 
> I think this design would be super stable and it would be using known technology that is plug and play.  Basically an insulated outer box that contains a flat tray of water with a sous vide unit to control the water (tray would need to be deep enough for the sous vide to work).  Eggs sit on top above the water on some sort of rack and add an air circulation fan.  Concept would be the water is a larger thermal mass that would tend to hold a steady temp.  A sous vide unit like the Anova Bluetooth model is about $100 and known to be super precise (0.01 degree variance from set point once at temp).  Unless the moist air environment would be a problem, it should work.  Just add a small tube and viewing port so you can add water as needed without actually opening the insulated container.
> 
> ...


Kinda looks something like this. I have a electronic humidity controller that turns a heated humidifier on.  I’m waiting for a cool mist one because I think that will be a Better option. I’m able to hatch 213 eggs a 1 time but just have 1 rack in right now. The rack is set up on a timer to turn them every 2-3 hrs


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## dward51 (Mar 5, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> I know how the offset works I guess and I don’t see anything wrong there?? I just adjust to correct it like you explained.



Ok, now I'm confused.  You are saying you had to adjust the PID display by 92.6 degrees to get it read right on the PID display?  That is a huge problem.

It is starting to sound like you have a flaky PID.  That's not unheard of.  Believe it or not they even knock of MYPIN units in China.  Do you have another PID to try?  You are not the first person I've talked with that found they had a bad/flaky MYPIN PID.  They are a little more money that a ebay MYPIN, but it's hard to beat the Auber Instruments models (they are in the USA in Kennesaw, GA) and they stand behind their products and have very good tech support.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 5, 2018)

dward51 said:


> Ok, now I'm confused.  You are saying you had to adjust the PID display by 92.6 degrees to get it read right on the PID display?  That is a huge problem.
> 
> It is starting to sound like you have a flaky PID.  That's not unheard of.  Believe it or not they even knock of MYPIN units in China.  Do you have another PID to try?  You are not the first person I've talked with that found they had a bad/flaky MYPIN PID.  They are a little more money that a ebay MYPIN, but it's hard to beat the Auber Instruments models (they are in the USA in Kennesaw, GA) and they stand behind their products and have very good tech support.


Yes that is the adjustment I made to calibrate it. I put the thermocouple in ice water and set the off set. Then I set it up in my incubator and had 2 thermometers inside and I calibrated it to the mercury thermometer. I have not tried my other pid from my smoker. I do however have 1 new one coming and I Just bought another one tonight. I’ve had pretty good luck with these. I think I did replace my smoker pid awhile ago but can’t remember.

I also should mention I’m using a SSR with this. You don’t think it’s anything to do with that do you?


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## dward51 (Mar 6, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> I also should mention I’m using a SSR with this. You don’t think it’s anything to do with that do you?



No the output you listed is set for SSR and the SSR is working.  The SSR output is just a low voltage control signal that when present tells the SSR to turn "ON" (simplified explanation).  If the SSR LED is on when it should be and it's controlling the element, it is working.

So back to that offset.  So with the probe in ice water you had a negative reading on the PID temp and had to add an offset of a positive 92.6 to get it to read 32 degrees F.  Correct?


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 6, 2018)

dward51 said:


> No the output you listed is set for SSR and the SSR is working.  The SSR output is just a low voltage control signal that when present tells the SSR to turn "ON" (simplified explanation).  If the SSR LED is on when it should be and it's controlling the element, it is working.
> 
> So back to that offset.  So with the probe in ice water you had a negative reading on the PID temp and had to add an offset of a positive 92.6 to get it to read 32 degrees F.  Correct?


I believe so??


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 6, 2018)

have you tried boiling water test (with all your therms) ??


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 6, 2018)

No I didn’t try boiling water.


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 6, 2018)

give boiling water a try..  the tip of the thermocouple not touching any metal of the pan ... pending your elevation it should be 212`...


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 6, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> give boiling water a try..  the tip of the thermocouple not touching any metal of the pan ... pending your elevation it should be 212`...


I can’t do it now. I will have to wait for 20 days now


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## dward51 (Mar 6, 2018)

Just to clarify.  If you had to use a 92* offset to display the temp of ice water, something is BAD WRONG, probably with the PID.    If it's working now, I would not touch it and try not to open the incubator until the eggs are done(hatched).  Hopefully it will get you through this brood, but I would not start another one.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 7, 2018)

dward51 said:


> Just to clarify.  If you had to use a 92* offset to display the temp of ice water, something is BAD WRONG, probably with the PID.    If it's working now, I would not touch it and try not to open the incubator until the eggs are done(hatched).  Hopefully it will get you through this brood, but I would not start another one.


Right. I’m going to hook up another pid when these are done. I think the other thermocouple I tried had a 220* off set


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## dward51 (Mar 7, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> Right. I’m going to hook up another pid when these are done. I think the other thermocouple I tried had a 220* off set



Yep, you have a flaky PID.  I just hope this hatch of eggs goes alright, but I would not run another until this is resolved.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 7, 2018)

I hope when I get home tonight I have a new one there because I wanted to candle my eggs tonight so that would be a good time to swap it out


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 8, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> If it were me... I would just do a default reset and start over with Dave's guidance ...


How do you do a default reset??


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## dward51 (Mar 8, 2018)

I don't think there is a keypad function to reset a MYPIN, nor is there a reset button to push with a small tool.

I know you said you have another temp probe, but do you have another SSR?  If so you could do a dry run of the new PID to see if is working properly before trying to swap it out.  Also remember you will need to run an auto-tune cycle on the new PID.  I would *NOT* trust the auto tune results from the flaky one.  That cycle will take a while and I don't know if you want eggs in that process (unless you are prepared to write off this hatch due to the first PID issues).

Your call, but if it's stable now you may want to let it run until this hatch is done then tinker with it.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 8, 2018)

I candled the eggs tonight with my boy and kinda had a hard time getting the temp stable. Had to hit auto tune several times and open it up to let some heat out but think it’s stable now. I don’t think I have another ssr  A 25A ssr is plenty big right?


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 8, 2018)

Also do you know what auber pid would work good for me. Auber  SYL-1512A? I’m going to order one


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 8, 2018)

Pretty sure mine (auber) has a default reset somewhere in the programming... read the manual and see if there isn't a reset somewhere in the settings.. I am not familiar with the MYPIN so it may not have that option ..


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 9, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> Pretty sure mine (auber) has a default reset somewhere in the programming... read the manual and see if there isn't a reset somewhere in the settings.. I am not familiar with the MYPIN so it may not have that option ..


I’m not so sure mine does and the directions are not very clear.I am going to order up one of those auber PID’s so at least I have local support if I need it besides the forum


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## dward51 (Mar 9, 2018)

Call up Auber and they will help you choose the correct model.  They have excellent tech support.  I may suggest one model, but they have vastly more experience with all their models.  Just tell them what you are using the unit for and what components you are going to use.

Auber Instruments, Inc.
5755 North Point Parkway, Suite 99 
Alpharetta, GA 30022 USA

Tech Support: [email protected]
Phone: 
(770) 569-8420
(404) 926-6098
(404) 983-8228
Office hours: M -F, 9AM - 5PM ET.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 9, 2018)

dward51 said:


> Call up Auber and they will help you choose the correct model.  They have excellent tech support.  I may suggest one model, but they have vastly more experience with all their models.  Just tell them what you are using the unit for and what components you are going to use.
> 
> Auber Instruments, Inc.
> 5755 North Point Parkway, Suite 99
> ...


I did just that today and ordered one up. Thank you


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 13, 2018)

I received my new auber pid today and just wanted to make sure I’m hooking it up correct so I don’t fry it 
Pin 1&2 obviously are power in
Pin 6-10 are self explanatory 
Now do I need a jumper wire form pin 11 to 13 or do I not need to do anything with the rest of the pins? SYL-2362 is the pid model number. Thank you


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## dward51 (Mar 14, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> I received my new auber pid today and just wanted to make sure I’m hooking it up correct so I don’t fry it
> Pin 1&2 obviously are power in
> Pin 6-10 are self explanatory
> Now do I need a jumper wire form pin 11 to 13 or do I not need to do anything with the rest of the pins? SYL-2362 is the pid model number. Thank you



Most likely not.  The only time you would need to worry about wiring up 11/13 is if you are using the J2 relay output to control some external function such as a warning buzzer, light, etc.... which used a "normally closed" output.  J1 and J2 are basically dry contact relays inside the PID and my recommendation would be to get your incubator running and stable before adding any bells and whistles such as external alarms, etc..... (ie, don't use them now).

The owners and configuration manual for the SYL-2362 is here:

https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2362/instruction/1.6.pdf


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

Thanks for the reply. I found the instructions last night after i posted this. I think that’s all I to hook up is the ssr connections and power


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 14, 2018)

don't forget the thermalcoupler


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

Got it already. Hooking wires up now


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

How do I change from C to F?  I got this switched over but some stuff is way wrong


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

Here is what it reads when it’s an ice water.  I’m kind of scrambling right now because I have these eggs in here


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## dward51 (Mar 14, 2018)

Sigh, if the other one was stable, you should have waited until the eggs were through the cycle, but at this point it is what it is.....

Go into the setup menu like this:

Push "SET" button
Enter "0089"
Push "SET" button again to enter the configuration menu
Keep pushing "SET" button until you see "CorF" in the display
Change the "CorF" value to 1 (0 is for centigrade) by using the arrow buttons

Keep pushing "SET" button until you see "End"
You do the same but with "0036" to change the tuning parameters and "0001" is for controlling temperature and alarm settings.

Also the very first value you will see in that menu is the "IntY" or "input sensor selection".  Make sure it is set to match your temp probe type correctly "Y" is for K type sensor.  If that is set wrong, it will also not read the temp correctly (I seem to recall you had a K sensor, if not use the correct code from the manual).

Full manual PDF is here:

https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2362/instruction/1.6.pdf


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

I already have that done. I am just trying to get the offset right while it’s an ice water right now


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

OK I think I have the offset correct now. Shall I hit the auto tune button or are there other settings that I should adjust?


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## dward51 (Mar 14, 2018)

So your are saying it is reading 61.3 with the probe in ice water?

That is WAY OFF.  Offset should only be a couple of degrees or fraction of a degree normally.  Should be no more than 5 off at the most.  You still have a bad component. Try the other K temp sensor.  Also how do you have the temp sensor wired?  They are polarity sensitive.

Positive lead from probe goes to positive terminal on PID, and negative to negative.  If you have them backwards the temp will do the opposite of what you expect (temp rises in real life, but display temp will go down if reversed).  Or it will not read at all depending on sensor.

--------------------------------------------
Edit -

I was typing as you replied.  

I would first let it run for 15 minutes to see just how far off it is.  If it's close enough to work, you may want to leave it.  If not, then it needs adjustment/tuning.

Not sure how the auto tune will affect your hatch of eggs, but again, it is what it is.  The PID needs to be tuned either manually or on auto tune and in this instance, auto tune would be the lesser of the two evils so to speak.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

I bought a new one when I bought this PID the other day. I am using a RDT thermal coupler know From auber


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

I am set at -14.8°  On my offset  that gives me my 32°F.   I tried to do the boiling water but from the store over to the thermal coupler I could only get 182° out of it


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

I was kind of in a panic because I swapped my bad PID with another mypin PID  and I couldn’t get my heater to turn on. So then I grabbed this other new one and hooked it up and had no idea how to set anything on it so while I had the wife nagging at me and one of my kids trying to talk to me it was kind of a disaster


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 14, 2018)

My target temp is 99.5 and my mercury thermometer is up to 115* inside. I have it on auto tune now and the temp keeps climbing. It flashes on and off just like the other one I had. Why???when the temp is above the Target temp it shouldn’t be flashing at all until it drops below the target temp


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

Somethings not right here this won’t keep temp where I want it to. Output light keeps flashing even after the target temp is exceeded


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## dr k (Mar 15, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> Somethings not right here this won’t keep temp where I want it to. Output light keeps flashing even after the target temp is exceeded


Is there a jumper wire on one of the thermocouple terminals to another open terminal?


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

dr k said:


> Is there a jumper wire on one of the thermocouple terminals to another open terminal?


No I don’t have one on there. It’s a 3 wire rtd thermocouple


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## dr k (Mar 15, 2018)

If you set the Integral to 0 and the Derivative to 0 you are in Proportional mode if you set P to 1 or higher on my Auber. So if you set p to 7, then 7 degrees below it gets to set point your at 100% then five degrees below set point your at 71% output then at set point your at 0%. So I set my smoker to p=1 so one degree below set point I'm at 100% then it flashes at 50% till it hits set point which is light out at 0%. If you set p=10 then 9 degrees below set point is 90% output, 8 degrees below set point is 80% etc till you get to your set point. I do this for more power when the temp drops and not wait a long time when it's flashing because lots of air is moving through the smoker and I want heat fast.


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## dr k (Mar 15, 2018)

If p=0 it is in on/off mode and doesn't matter what I or D is set to so lit goes off at set point and on one degree below set point.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

dr k said:


> If you set the Integral to 0 and the Derivative to 0 you are in Proportional mode if you set P to 1 or higher on my Auber. So if you set p to 7, then 7 degrees below it gets to set point your at 100% then five degrees below set point your at 71% output then at set point your at 0%. So I set my smoker to p=1 so one degree below set point I'm at 100% then it flashes at 50% till it hits set point which is light out at 0%. If you set p=10 then 9 degrees below set point is 90% output, 8 degrees below set point is 80% etc till you get to your set point. I do this for more power when the temp drops and not wait a long time when it's flashing because lots of air is moving through the smoker and I want heat fast.


Ok this is the info I needed last night. So I set my P-0 but it over shoots now so I need to change it to P-1 to get it tighter? I want this to hold as tight as possible to 99.5°. After I changed the setting like you said it shot the temp up to 102°


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## dr k (Mar 15, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> Ok this is the info I needed last night. So I set my P-0 but it over shoots now so I need to change it to P-1 to get it tighter? I want this to hold as tight as possible to 99.5°. After I changed the setting like you said it shot the temp up to 102°


Try p=10 down to p=1. It depends on volume of air your heating and air coming in and going out. Set I=0 and D=0. And see if it starts blinking 10 degrees below your set point.Try p=10 and see what it does. It should stay on full power till ten degrees below your set point and then blink the last 10 degrees and have less on blinks as it closes in. It is low over shoot.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

Right now I have 
p-1 
I-default (100)
D-30 and it’s holding ok. I’m going to try auto tune unless you think that’s not what I should do.


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 15, 2018)

If needed right away..  call Auber support..  they should be able to get you going by phone (much quicker)..  rather than wait on reply's here... just thinking out loud ...


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> If needed right away..  call Auber support..  they should be able to get you going by phone (much quicker)..  rather than wait on reply's here... just thinking out loud ...


Right. I did that all ready but they were closed already


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

dr k said:


> Try p=10 down to p=1. It depends on volume of air your heating and air coming in and going out. Set I=0 and D=0. And see if it starts blinking 10 degrees below your set point.Try p=10 and see what it does. It should stay on full power till ten degrees below your set point and then blink the last 10 degrees and have less on blinks as it closes in. It is low over shoot.


Ok so when it’s in auto tune now and it drops below the set temp the light doesn’t flash. It’s 2* below the set temp at the moment and it hasn’t kicked the heat on yet. What setting is that? Is that the D setting? There’s not a lot of air coming in or going out. 1/2 hole on one side and 1/2” on other side with a fan blowing air in through it. Both holes have tape over 1/2 of the hole


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

So right no I have it set like this
P-9.5
I-0
D-0
It starts to heat at 99.3 and Shuts off at 100.6. That’s hotter than I want. I need it to stay 99.5. I know it can do it I just don’t know which setting to change.


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 15, 2018)

It's going to drop below and overshoot a few times during the auto tune..


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> It's going to drop below and overshoot a few times during the auto tune..


I’m not in auto tune right now I’m just trying to get it stable then I’ll auto tune it??


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## JckDanls 07 (Mar 15, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> Ok *so when it’s in auto tune now and it drops below the set temp the light doesn’t flash. It’s 2* below the set temp at the moment and it hasn’t kicked the heat on yet.* What setting is that? Is that the D setting? There’s not a lot of air coming in or going out. 1/2 hole on one side and 1/2” on other side with a fan blowing air in through it. Both holes have tape over 1/2 of the hole




My bad..  I must have read this wrong ...


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

jckdanls 07 said:


> My bad..  I must have read this wrong ...


It was in auto tune then but I changed my settings as you can see in the next few post. It’s over shooting up to 105* now. Wtf


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## dr k (Mar 15, 2018)

Try p-4, I-0, D-40. I did autotune and the factory default but it didn't work for me.  I just had to play with it. Auber sent me the setting above for slow response cookers for no/low over shoot and it holds a water bath to the degree but air? Give it a shot and make a journal.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

dr k said:


> Try p-4, I-0, D-40. I did autotune and the factory default but it didn't work for me.  I just had to play with it. Auber sent me the setting above for slow response cookers for no/low over shoot and it holds a water bath to the degree but air? Give it a shot and make a journal.


I have it in auto tune right now and the temp has dropped all the way to 90* and hasn’t fired my heater one time with the settings I have in my above post. I will try yours now. 
My I- only goes to 0002 not 0


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 15, 2018)

dr k said:


> Try p-4, I-0, D-40. I did autotune and the factory default but it didn't work for me.  I just had to play with it. Auber sent me the setting above for slow response cookers for no/low over shoot and it holds a water bath to the degree but air? Give it a shot and make a journal.


So now that I have the the auto tune going to the settings that you posted the temp has dipped to 93.7 as of now and the out put light flashes every 1 second but he temp is still dropping. I have never had a problem as big as this one with my smoker pid. What’s going on? It shouldn’t dip that low I don’t think. My smoker pid doesn’t do that in auto tune.


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## dr k (Mar 15, 2018)

I'm sure our parameters are different for our different PID's. The chart Auber sent me said to divide the P column by 10 to get my model parameters compared to the Bradley smoker model. I was instructed in the manual to write down my factory settings then autotune at your set temp. It will heat up and coast past then fall below the set point to a few times to learn the heater and chamber and over write the default or any manual settings before the autotune. Then write those down because thats your current setting after the autotune until you autotune again or manually enter the parameters. I autotuned my smoker twice and got the same parameters and the smoker would come out of full output and start blinking way before my set point. I waited 15 minutes for it to climb a few degrees and said no way same with default setting. Time for me to manually set.

I don't know how big of a chamber you have and how close to the heater the sensor is. Maybe if the sensor is closer to the heat source that may reduce over shoots. Auber needs to get involved.


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## dward51 (Mar 16, 2018)

ryans01z28 said:


> So now that I have the the auto tune going to the settings that you posted the temp has dipped to 93.7 as of now and the out put light flashes every 1 second but he temp is still dropping. I have never had a problem as big as this one with my smoker pid. What’s going on? It shouldn’t dip that low I don’t think. My smoker pid doesn’t do that in auto tune.



This really sounds like you have the PID set to cool rather than heat mode.  In cool mode it triggers the process when the process temp is "above" the set point.  Heat mode is the exact opposite and what you want (heats when the temp falls below set point).   Double check the configuration.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 16, 2018)

dward51 said:


> This really sounds like you have the PID set to cool rather than heat mode.  In cool mode it triggers the process when the process temp is "above" the set point.  Heat mode is the exact opposite and what you want (heats when the temp falls below set point).   Double check the configuration.


 No that was not it. There was one setting I had to increase the value by one number  or something like that I can’t remember I changed a couple things and it works now. On my Other PID I had to hold the set button for the auto tune and for some reason I thought I had to do the same thing with this one when in fact I had to hold the over arrow down instead. By holding the button on this controller it put it in manual mode of some sort so that was one problem. It is now working. I think you for all the help and I really wish I could remember what all I changed


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## dward51 (Mar 16, 2018)

If you are satisfied with how it is working, after the eggs are finished, I would step through each of the menu settings and write down the values to keep in a log. That way, you can always get back to one configuration that you know works if you decide to try and tweak it a little more later.  But if it is working now I would not change a thing while you have eggs in the system.

Glad to hear it is working.  I think once you get it set like you want it, you will probably never have to do anything to the Auber components and it will be rock solid stable.


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## ryans01z28 (Mar 16, 2018)

dward51 said:


> If you are satisfied with how it is working, after the eggs are finished, I would step through each of the menu settings and write down the values to keep in a log. That way, you can always get back to one configuration that you know works if you decide to try and tweak it a little more later.  But if it is working now I would not change a thing while you have eggs in the system.
> 
> Glad to hear it is working.  I think once you get it set like you want it, you will probably never have to do anything to the Auber components and it will be rock solid stable.


I do notice that it does overshoot by 1 1/2° Once I open it So I may have to call them and see which setting I need to change


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