# Converting to a reverse flow



## jokensmoken (Mar 7, 2017)

Hi folks, 
I picked up an old offset smoker ( about the size of a smokey Joe elite) at a yard sale Saturday and I'd like to convert it to a reverse flow.
My idea is to fabricate a heat shield over the fire box (kind of like a scoop) to direct the heat to the bottom of the smoker.
Then, place 1/4 sheet steel several inches above the bottom of the cook chamber as a heat deflector, leaving some space at the far end of the cook chamber (away from the fire box) for the heat and smoke to  to rise...
Then move the stack from the far end (away from the fire box) to the opposite end ( near the fire box) to get the reverse flow effect...
I've a couple questions.
I've read that the stack should extend down into the cook chamber to about the level of the cooking grate...Does it?
I've also heard of guys drilling holes in their steel heat deflector plate (below the cooking grate) to allow some smoke and heat to escape into the cook chamber...
Is this necessary and if so, how many holes, how large should they be and where should they positioned?
And lastly how much space should I allow between my deflector plates and the far end of the cook chamber...I was thinking about 6 inches...
I could trial and error it but with all the vast knowledge and experience here I was hoping to get some advice so I might at least get it near right the first time around
Any advice y'all might have would be greatly appreciated.

Walt


----------



## daveomak (Mar 7, 2017)

A picture of your smoker would help.....

Drilling holes in the plate is for making a side firebox smoker...   RF smokers do not have holes in the plate...


----------



## gr0uch0 (Mar 7, 2017)

DaveOmak said:


> A picture of your smoker would help.....
> 
> Drilling holes in the plate is for making a side firebox smoker...   RF smokers do not have holes in the plate...










Additionally, if the CC isn't about 5' or better, RF is largely a waste and gimmicky because of the minimal distance from one end to the other.  Balanced temps can be achieved in an offset FB smoker with a well sealed baffle and well placed solid tuning plates for a fraction of the cost.


----------



## jokensmoken (Mar 11, 2017)

Ok...Thanks...Additional question...What's the difference between a "side box" and an "offset" smoker... I thought they were the same.
PS...Sorry about the lack of pics...My camera on my phone isn't working properly.


----------



## jokensmoken (Mar 11, 2017)

Ok, being ignorant about the terminology...Could you elaborate on "solid tuning plates"...I'm assuming your suggesting narrower plates that can be moved left to right in the CC allowing more or less space, a crack if you will, between them allowing more smoke and heat to rise into the CC in different locations instead of one solid plate running the length of the CC...Making the need for drilled holes unnecessary.
My CC is about 40" in length...
What thickness plate would you suggest and at what approximate width. I have 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" thickness plate steel available and can have as many or as few sections as I want, within reason...
I understand it's going to be trial and error and require some testing but a clue from someone who has more experience would shorten the learning curve...Also, I'd think the heat would still need to be directed under these plates, correct?


----------



## daveomak (Mar 11, 2017)

Side fire box and offset are pretty much the same...   Kind of like oyster and erster...  my wife was from Kansas...   took me awhile to figure out what an erster was.....


----------



## jokensmoken (Mar 11, 2017)

Ok, thanks...I'm not exactly new to smoking, but I am definitely a green horn when it comes to talking to experienced folks...My vocabulary is lacking and sometimes the terminology is confusing...


----------



## gr0uch0 (Mar 11, 2017)

jokensmoken said:


> Ok, being ignorant about the terminology...Could you elaborate on "solid tuning plates"...I'm assuming your suggesting narrower plates that can be moved left to right in the CC allowing more or less space, a crack if you will, between them allowing more smoke and heat to rise into the CC in different locations instead of one solid plate running the length of the CC...Making the need for drilled holes unnecessary.
> My CC is about 40" in length...
> What thickness plate would you suggest and at what approximate width. I have 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" thickness plate steel available and can have as many or as few sections as I want, within reason...
> I understand it's going to be trial and error and require some testing but a clue from someone who has more experience would shorten the learning curve...Also, I'd think the heat would still need to be directed under these plates, correct?



You nailed it.  Any of those plate thicknesses are fine.  Baffle will redirect the heat and smoke under the first plate, then the gaps widen with each successive plate to even out the temp.  It's going to be trial and error, but you should be able to dial them in fairly quickly.


----------



## jokensmoken (Mar 11, 2017)

Thanks loads...Knowing about the size/length of the CC determining the need for RF or not saved me alot of time...That's why I always ask all y'all before Diving into a project...While what I envisioned would have probably worked it sounds like definite overkill...Now 
I can do this mod in an afternoon...Hopefully I get my camera on line and can post pics...
Walt


----------



## gr0uch0 (Mar 11, 2017)

jokensmoken said:


> Thanks loads...Knowing about the size/length of the CC determining the need for RF or not saved me alot of time...That's why I always ask all y'all before Diving into a project...While what I envisioned would have probably worked it sounds like definite overkill...Now
> I can do this mod in an afternoon...Hopefully I get my camera on line and can post pics...
> Walt



My pleasure.  Do post pics when you can--I'd like to see how it turns out. Thumbs Up


----------

