# Firebox set up



## Northern_Cowboy (Apr 26, 2020)

Chargriller Competition Pro offset smoker.

Assembled an expanded steel coal basket.  I have used that in the cooking chamber to smoke 'n' sear burgers and steaks, so that's good.  I've watched tons of videos and some recommend to build your coal bed along the rear half the fire box.  Is it better to pile it up or spread it out?  Just watched a video where the guy assembled his expanded steel basket that was very narrow and it basically ran front to back, and was tapered to keep everything essentially piled up, rather than spread out.

If it's better to keep it piled, would it be better to spread it out.  If piled is better, is it better to do so along the rear of the firebox, essentially in line with the flow of air, or front to back, perpendicular to the flow of air.  If perpendicular is better, would it be better to have the pile closer to the vent or closer to the cook chamber?


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## JWFokker (Apr 27, 2020)

Take a look at this. The guy with the narrow basket and tapered sides is on the right track. 









						Fire Management Basket
					

Our fire management basket has been designed to help increase the efficiency on our stick burners.  This is done by concentrating the coals and directing airflow in such a way to maximize your fuel and help prevent dirty smoke.  This is achieved by directing primary combustion air directly into...




					lonestargrillz.com


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## Northern_Cowboy (Apr 27, 2020)

JWFokker said:


> Take a look at this. The guy with the narrow basket and tapered sides is on the right track.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The guy with the narrow basket had a much narrower basket than that.  It was maybe 8" at the top and 3-4" at the bottom.   Basically one piece of wood for his rig fit almost all the way down.  

Is it better to have your coals all in one smaller pile?


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## JWFokker (Apr 29, 2020)

The trick is maintaining depth to the coal bed and concentrating heat so the wood burns hot and clean. Spread your coals out and the heat output will be roughly the same but the split you throw in may smolder. Concentrating and directing the heat like a starter chimney or rocket stove is the way to go.


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## JWFokker (Apr 29, 2020)

Size of the fire basket should be determined by the size of the smoker and desired cook temperature.


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## Northern_Cowboy (Apr 29, 2020)

JWFokker said:


> The trick is maintaining depth to the coal bed and concentrating heat so the wood burns hot and clean. Spread your coals out and the heat output will be roughly the same but the split you throw in may smolder. Concentrating and directing the heat like a starter chimney or rocket stove is the way to go.



Thanks for that tip!  I guess I know what I'm going to do on my next cook!


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## Northern_Cowboy (Apr 29, 2020)

JWFokker said:


> Size of the fire basket should be determined by the size of the smoker and desired cook temperature.


I made mine, roughly, 12"x12"x6" tall.  I got two 12"x24" sheets from Lowes, crossed them and folded up the sides.  Can't get much bigger else it wouldn't fit through the smoke box opening.  It's maybe 1/4" taller than optimal to use in the cook chamber; the grate is raised up a tad when I direct grill over it (smoke the burgers or steaks for 30-60 minutes and then finish directly over).


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## Smokin Okie (May 3, 2020)

I just bought the LSG 20" basket for my Old Country Brazos.    I've yet to cook with it.    Right off,  I like how it will allow me to move the fire toward the side door of the FB,  or move it closer to the cook chamber if I'd want to do that.    I think I gained the benefit of a longer FB.

Im currently not using a grate in the FB.   I have the original grate and I made one of expanded metal that has better air flow.   But if I put this basket on the grate,  then I have to load splits through the top door.

I'm thinking about setting it on fire brick,  something like this


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## Northern_Cowboy (May 3, 2020)

Smokin Okie said:


> I just bought the LSG 20" basket for my Old Country Brazos.    I've yet to cook with it.    Right off,  I like how it will allow me to move the fire toward the side door of the FB,  or move it closer to the cook chamber if I'd want to do that.    I think I gained the benefit of a longer FB.
> 
> Im currently not using a grate in the FB.   I have the original grate and I made one of expanded metal that has better air flow.   But if I put this basket on the grate,  then I have to load splits through the top door.
> 
> I'm thinking about setting it on fire brick,  something like this



That's a huge side opening!  Let me know how it works out!


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## Smokin Okie (May 3, 2020)

There's also this option


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## Smokin Okie (May 3, 2020)

View from the top,  can see the wiggle room I have for moving the fire away from cook chamber


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## Smokin Okie (May 4, 2020)

Had a problem with the fire brick sliding down.   Only thing holding them in place was the weight of the basket,  which btw is purty heavy.      

So I cut a piece of expanded metal to lay down the middle of the bottom of the FB.   It holds the brick in place perfectly .


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## Dantij (May 5, 2020)

*I bought the smaller one and used it for the 1st time Saturday.  Didn't like it.  The wood splits that I buy are generally 2-3 inches longer than the basket so the portion that hangs over the edge of the basket tends to smolder a little.  My firebox is 19 inches so obviously the 20 inch was out of the question.  I do believe the basket will work perfectly if I shorten up my wood splits.  Not sure if I want to add more labor to the process.  *


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## Northern_Cowboy (May 5, 2020)

Dantij said:


> *I bought the smaller one and used it for the 1st time Saturday.  Didn't like it.  The wood splits that I buy are generally 2-3 inches longer than the basket so the portion that hangs over the edge of the basket tends to smolder a little.  My firebox is 19 inches so obviously the 20 inch was out of the question.  I do believe the basket will work perfectly if I shorten up my wood splits.  Not sure if I want to add more labor to the process.  *


Mad Scientist BBQ channel on YouTube uses a miter saw to cut his splits to length.  I've seen others do the same.  It is another step, but it might be worth it, if you have a miter saw and it's 'handy' (I have one, but it's somewhat buried; lol).


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## Dantij (May 5, 2020)

Correction:
I bought the 20 inch basket, which is 12.5" long.
The 24 inch basket is 19" long, which is the size of my firebox. 16" would have been perfect for the Lang 48.


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## Smokin Okie (May 5, 2020)

Dantij said:


> *.  I do believe the basket will work perfectly if I shorten up my wood splits.  Not sure if I want to add more labor to the process.  *



Every time I fire up my Brazos,  I have my miter saw close by.    I attach the saw to a 2' X 4' piece of  3/4" plywood and clamp it on top of a Black and Decker WorkMate.    Its ready to go.

I can then cut splits to exactly the size I need.   I also use a Kindling Cracker before using the miter saw.

But I just ordered a reciprocating saw with some 9" pruning blades.    Its cordless.    I think it will be much easier to use ( and I'm told its safer than the miter saw, though I've never had serious problems the miter )  ,  once I figure out a good method to hold the splits in place.    I think the WorkMate might come back into play.


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## Dantij (May 5, 2020)

I don't have a miter saw but I do have a sawzall.  I'm not sure why I bought the basket.  I was just looking to burn wood more efficiently I guess.  I've never had a problem holding temps or producing clear exhaust or blue smoke. Might be seeing this basket on Ebay!!


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## Northern_Cowboy (May 5, 2020)

Smokin Okie said:


> Every time I fire up my Brazos,  I have my miter saw close by.    I attach the saw to a 2' X 4' piece of  3/4" plywood and clamp it on top of a Black and Decker WorkMate.    Its ready to go.
> 
> I can then cut splits to exactly the size I need.   I also use a Kindling Cracker before using the miter saw.
> 
> But I just ordered a reciprocating saw with some 9" pruning blades.    Its cordless.    I think it will be much easier to use ( and I'm told its safer than the miter saw, though I've never had serious problems the miter )  ,  once I figure out a good method to hold the splits in place.    I think the WorkMate might come back into play.


Based on your description, I can't imagine how a miter saw would be more dangerous than a recip saw.  Sounds like you have a great setup there!


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## Northern_Cowboy (May 5, 2020)

Dantij said:


> I don't have a miter saw but I do have a sawzall.  I'm not sure why I bought the basket.  I was just looking to burn wood more efficiently I guess.  I've never had a problem holding temps or producing clear exhaust or blue smoke. Might be seeing this basket on Ebay!!


The most difficult part will be securing the split while you cut it.  Recip saws are pretty crude tools meant for demolition where quality of cut isn't really important.  Make sure to secure the split well, and you should be fine.


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## JWFokker (May 5, 2020)

A good pruning blade makes a big difference when cutting splits with a reciprocating saw.


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## Smokin Okie (May 11, 2020)

JWFokker said:


> A good pruning blade makes a big difference when cutting splits with a reciprocating saw.



I bought a Black and Decker reciprocating saw along with some 9" pruning blade.    I was a bit disappointed in how easily it cut down my splits, but will still use it.      I'm thinking I still use the miter saw but not cut all the way through the piece, leave maybe a 1/4" .    Then use the reciprocating saw to finish it off.    Eliminate almost all the kickback risk  with the miter saw.

One thing I notice with the pruning blade that's a bit scary,   that blade will flop back and forth quite a ways.    IDK if I'm using it right or that's just the way its designed ???


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## Northern_Cowboy (May 11, 2020)

Smokin Okie said:


> I bought a Black and Decker reciprocating saw along with some 9" pruning blade.    I was a bit disappointed in how easily it cut down my splits, but will still use it.      I'm thinking I still use the miter saw but not cut all the way through the piece, leave maybe a 1/4" .    Then use the reciprocating saw to finish it off.    Eliminate almost all the kickback risk  with the miter saw.
> 
> One thing I notice with the pruning blade that's a bit scary,   that blade will flop back and forth quite a ways.    IDK if I'm using it right or that's just the way its designed ???


There shouldn't be much kickback risk with the miter saw.  I'd recommend cutting all the way through.  Position it as best you can so the split is against the fence on both sides of the blade.  Since the blade rotates into the piece towards the fence, as long as the piece is against the fence on both sides of the blade, it shouldn't kick away from the fence (towards you).


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## Smokin Okie (May 11, 2020)

I smoked three pork butt on the Brazos yesterday using the LSG fire basket and I was really impressed with it.   It helped maintain a good coal bed.    Pre-warmed splits readily ignited when placed on the coals.    And it helped me keep the fire away from my cook chamber, sort've added a bit of advantage of a longer FB .

This was money well spent on my Brazos.

I sat it on fire bricks ,  just as in the pic above,  and that worked fine.   It got plenty of air flow from underneath.

Here's a chart of my smoke.   Ive been using a Thermoworks Gateway to make these charts of my cooks for about a year now,  and this was the best cook I've had

I put the meat on the smoker at 10:30 am.    I had just one spike over 300, which is an improvement.   And I opened the cook chamber door about once an hour to move meat and spritz .


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## Smokin Okie (May 11, 2020)

Northern_Cowboy said:


> There shouldn't be much kickback risk with the miter saw.  I'd recommend cutting all the way through.  Position it as best you can so the split is against the fence on both sides of the blade.  Since the blade rotates into the piece towards the fence, as long as the piece is against the fence on both sides of the blade, it shouldn't kick away from the fence (towards you).



I've been using the miter saw for two years,   made hundreds of cuts.    I've had two kickbacks, both small pieces , and the saw threw them away from me.

I guess I've read too much on other forums about miter saws not being safe with irregular shaped pieces of wood.


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## Northern_Cowboy (May 11, 2020)

Smokin Okie said:


> I've been using the miter saw for two years,   made hundreds of cuts.    I've had two kickbacks, both small pieces , and the saw threw them away from me.
> 
> I guess I've read too much on other forums about miter saws not being safe with irregular shaped pieces of wood.


I've not made any cuts on a miter saw with irregular shaped pieces, so I have no experience to advise from.  I just know how miter saws rotate when cutting (it's good to know which direction the saw blade is going so you limit damaging the show side of the wood).  Make sure you're wearing eye protection, and let the chips fall where they may (pun intended).


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