# Masterbuilt not working properly



## t-bone tim

For those that have the electric [font=verdana, Sans-Serif]*MES*[/font] smokers ...take note ... 

I use my [font=verdana, Sans-Serif]*MES*[/font] alot ... to do jerky mostly , and salmon ...canadian bacon ...etc etc etc , anything where I need a constant controlled temp .... 

anyhow , my [font=verdana, Sans-Serif]*MES*[/font] , started acting up 2 batches of jerky ago , and quit completely on my last batch on this past Sunday ... it would heat up then start losing temp ... when it was supposed to be heating ... the element seemed a little loose ( although not overly ) when I moved it , it seemed to start heating again ... then would quit .... then it just wouldn't do anything at all .... 

anyways the unit only has a 90 day warranty ( mines only been in use ( ALOT ) for 11 months ... so I dove in feet first to try and get her going ... I NEEDED A JERKY FIX , 

firstly the back is riveted on ... so I drilled them all out and removed the back ... all visable wires looked okay , ... figuring the element wires to be the culpret I cut the metal box open covering the connections ( sorry no pics , camera has issues ) with a mini grinder ( the screws to remove it are on the inside of the smoker and not easily accessable )...and sure enough 1 of the connections was pretty well gone completely and the other was ready to go 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






 ... 

I went to a locall hardware store and purchased some high temp replacement wires ( with connectores ) the kind for stovetop burners ( same as was used in this smoker application as well ) which were long enough to cut in 1/2 and replace both connections with 1 wire , and having the second one left for another repair if need be .. 

I cleaned the ends of the element up well with a small file replaced the terminal connections with the new ones and re-connected the wires .... closed up the protection box , and replaced the back of the smoker using screws ( in case it ever needs fixing again ) ... 

if you use a [font=verdana, Sans-Serif]*MES*[/font] electric smoker and start having heating problems ... you might want to start looking here ... sorry I had no pics of the fix .... camera has issues ,


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## craig chamberlain

Thanks for the information T-bone Tim,I have a MES and use it all the time.I haven't had any problems yet but I'll keep you post in case I have problems.


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## brianlhobbs

An amazing report. Sounds like you did a great job of fixing your unit, T-bone Tim.
Too bad your camera is down. I have been dying to see how the MES is wired and controlled.
Did you notice any relays or solid state devices used for powering the heating element? Also How many temp sensors did you notice wiring for? (see my other posts).
And sorry, but one last question, how did you re-secure the back panel after drilling out the pop rivets?
Thanks and great Job!!


Brian


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## t-bone tim

Brian , it's a very simple design ... there is only one temp sensor at the top left corner ( looking into the smoker ) ...

what I guess is a fuse of some sort , on the left side also ( about 2/3 the way up from the bottom ) ... 

I didn't have to open the bottom main wiring box ( where the power wire goes into the unit ) so unsure what's all in there .... 

as far as putting the back , back on ...I used plain ole self threading robertson screws approx 5/8 " long .


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## brianlhobbs

LOL, "Robertson Screws ", as soon as I seen that, I looked to make sure you were in Canada. For some reason those really great screw heads, have yet to catch on in the states.

As for the temperature sensor (thermistor), just today, when I was on the phone with Masterbuilt Customer Service, they were telling me that the MES had multiple (4 to 6) temp sensors. I knew that when I mounted the controller on top of the unit, that there was not enough wires for more than one.

It would have been nice if you could get the heating element without so much trouble


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## davenh

Nice repair T-bone! Was there much insulation under the back panel?


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## mossymo

T-bone Tim 

Good job on the fix !!! Was it corrosion or was left over smoke (creosote) impairing the bad connection?


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## richtee

Exactly what I'd have said... in a roundabout way. POINTS for the save!


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## kookie

Great info for future referance.............Glad you were able to save the unit..............


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## morkdach

i had problems with the wire connections on the elements of 750 watts or more finally went to a teflon wire and a silver solder on the connections and they havent acted up for over 4 years.

GOOD FIX T-BONE


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## t-bone tim

Dave .... probably about 1 1/4 of foam type insulation on the back ...

Mossy the connectors on the wires were weak from heating / corrosion ... one was pretty much gone , the other was very weak / brittle and ready to go !


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## homebrew & bbq

I had the same problem as Tim so I  made sure my camera was handy when I did the repair so they could be added to this thread. Thanks for the guidance, Tim. 

 Here's the back after it's opened up by drilling out the rivets and taking out about a half dozen screws. 







 This is the box that contains the connections to the heating element. It's where I suspect the problem to be. 







The next step was to remove the tray that holds the wood chips and its housing. It requires removing about 4 screws/bolts. Here is the exposed heating element. 







This allows access to the 3 screws that hold the heating element in place. The outer 2 hold the connection box in place. In the picture the screw on the left has already been removed. The center one is actually a small bolt that doesn't need to be removed. It is attached to the ground wire.







Removing the box on the back exposes the heating element connections. The black wire is SUPPOSED to be attached further left. It was completely corroded/burnt through. The connection prongs on the heating element need some steel wool. They're crusty. (sorry about the blurry picture) 








 It took several stops but I finally found wire for high-temp applications. It is stranded stainless steel wire with a Teflon insulation wrapped in a fiberglass mesh "jacket". Eight feet of it cost $25 (including tax). If I am reading the markings correctly this wire is rated to handle up to 450° [font=verdana,Sans-Serif]*C*[/font]. 






 The connections were black and crusty so I cleaned them up with some emery cloth. 






The old wiring was cut at least a foot away from the heating element connections and the new high-temp wire was spliced on, then new connections were attached. (sorry about the poor focus) 






Here the repair is almost complete. The box needs to be put back over the heating element connections and then the sheet metal backing can be screwed back on. 






 I checked it by running it up to smoking temp before putting the back on to make sure I had all the connections secure.


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## mossymo

Homebrew & BBQ
Awesome post on how to do it !!!  
Very well layed out for us DIY'ers....... this could be a MES sticky?


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## jonathan

Ugh. I was just going to report odd behavior when doing my test run on the cornish game hens.

Unit preheated to 275, I stuck in 4 birds, and 35 min later the unit had gone down to 208. Mostly closed the vents and 30 min later the unit was at about 213.

Guess I'll need to break out the tools and take a look. I wonder if this is a significant known problem to the Masterbuilt team.


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## richtee

Wow... I don't read the electric posts often enough.. POINTS!  Good job!


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## kurtsara

Thanks to Tim & Terry                                                                                 (Homebrew & BBQ) mine is now fixed, I was doing a couple of brisket two weeks ago and me and our son and son in-law went ATV ridin while my wife and daughter watched the smoker, she went to check on it and it had quit, luckily I have 2 of them so she transfered the meat to the big MES and kept it cooking, I just took it apart and one of the connections was rusted off from the heat I suppose.

Thanks again guys


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## t-bone tim

Glad we could be of some help Kurtsara and thanks to Terry for posting them pics


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## goo

I had plans to start smoking two picnic shoulders this morning at 6:00am... and in retrospect, I should have known it was not to be. Last night I recall reading someone's blog post that ended, "If you want a surprise, just tell God your plans for the day." Warning bell #1.

So, I got up nice and early, and after putting the shoulders in my MES, I decided to get on SMF and see what the common wisdom is regarding removal of skin. (I had already decided to skin one, and compare the results) Don't really know how I ended up there, but I was soon reading this thread about MES repairs. Warning bell #2.

Now, I haven't had my MES all that long. Have used it maybe 10 times, and have been quite happy. But I'll be darned... immediately after reading this thread, I went outside to check for that thin blue smoke... nothing.

Opened the hatch and pulled the wood tray. The heating element didn't look all that hot. Looked at the panel indicator: "Heating" was lit. Hmm. Gingerly touched the heating element, and then just grabbed the thing. It was warm, all right... barely warm. Grr.

Long story short: one of the wiring lugs had corroded away to nothing; I don't know how the element was heating at all.

I can't complain, I suppose. What I got for what little I spent was a good beginning of an electric smoker. Now I get to re-engineer and retrofit a bunch of the cheap shortcuts that went into this thing (replacing sheet metal screws with bolts, proper wiring job, etc.)

It's amazing how little support there is for the heating element. And as far as I can tell, the amount of smoke this thing generates is reliant on how close the element is to the bottom of the chip pan. I think there's room for improvement there.

Bottom line: if you have an MES, plan on some repair work at some point.

Off to check for smoke...


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## ronp

Sorry for your problem. If it happens to me I'll take it back to Sam's, I bought the 3 year warrantee for 39.00.


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## scubadoo97

Goo, there's plenty of information on this site to show you how to fix your smoker and make it better than when you bought it.  It shouldn't take more than $10-15 or so in materials and a couple of hours of your time.


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## gruelurks

I'm tearing mine down tonight so I took a large hi-res pic of the affected connections. Click on the pic for a super large 2800 x 2100 pixel version of it if you want.


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## gruelurks

Also, when you are removing the screws for the wood chip tray and brace, if it won't come out easy after you get the screws out, make sure you actually removed the chip loader first.


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## gofish

I could see the frustration building at this point!  Hang in there.


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## scubadoo97

Wow, that's a lot of corrosion.  How old is your smoker?


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## nozzleman

Well 7 months and 8 or 9 uses into it's life my MES failed last night with the Turkey about 3 hours into the smoke. Thank goodness for the Maverick thermometer that alarmed to the dropping temps. The bird was pulled and finished off in the oven, looks like I will have to attempt the drill and repair routine.


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## coyote-1

Yep, them electric smokers sure are convenient






 lol

One thing I never have to worry about with an offset coal/stick burner is a malfunctioning element. Long as I have fuel, I can smoke!


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## rickw

You do have a point 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





. With all the electrical problems going on with these smokers isn't any of the owners worried about an electrical fire.


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## gruelurks

My MES is not even a year old but it sat outside on my back deck in the elements. I'm planning on buying a offset firebox grill this week if I can get one on sale. Still love my MES though, and I will continue to fix/mod it until the damn thing falls to pieces. (Which will probably be early spring lol.)


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## tender loins

Is there any way to use the MES without the digital control box on the top? I have a stainless one that they sent a main box as a warranty repair and still have the old defective stainless box I transferred all my stuff from to the new box. So it is JUST a stainless box. Maybe someone would like to buy it to update their black painted smoker to stainless.

If all else fails, I'll be the only one with a stainless steel tomato planter!


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## ronp

You can use it as a cold smoker.


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## tender loins

Hi Ron. Hope your TG Day finally materialized. Thanks for all your help & advice in the past too.Are you talking like a hotplate in the bottom or an external/side firebox? Any ideas how you'd do it? Through the chip loader hole? What can I cold smoke besides cheese? Nobody here likes fish.


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## ronp

Well you could do that or get a smoke daddy. You can cold smoke sausage, and jerky.


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## nozzleman

$7 bucks and a little time and mine was back up and running again. The connectors they use on the end of the wire are so light weight that it gets loose and causes it to overheat and fail. Just cut it off and replace with some heavier duty connectors. I got to mine before it had hurt any of the wiring, just lousy connectors.


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## scubadoo97

my before and after pics. Did the upgrade before a burn out.



High temp wires and connectors removed from an electric stove waiting for disposal at appliance shop.  Good source of free wires and connectors





Replaced the wires where I could get to both ends and spliced and soldered the one I couldn't.


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## gruelurks

I finally got around to finishing mine tonight. I don't have any further pics to contribute but I did also notice a more rapid rise in heating time with the heavier gauge wire replacements. I didn't find any Teflon coated wire, just some oven range stuff similar to what scubadoo97 depicts. I'm going to continue to use this one for a while to ensure it holds up, then I'll probably put in in the storage unit as a backup to my new one. (Which will be more protected in the elements this time around. )


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## reichl

Looks like I am going to have to do this too.  The thing that really gets me is that I have been waiting for the weather outside to warm up so I could smoke something, now I have to use the oven.


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## tender loins

I'm assuming everyone's MES is out of warranty?

I ask because mine lost temp last year and wouldn't get hot. Luckily it was when everything was done and I was just gonna dry/smoke some hot peppers--the temp sank from 225 to ambient temp slowly but surely. 

I called Masterbuilt and they actually asked where I got it (Cabela's), serial #, etc.

Within a week, they sent me a new or refurbed smoker "shell" which was the main case (my was the stainless version), LESS the door, grates, display, wood chip chute, drip pan, etc. I just transferred all my parts to the replacement. You don't even have to send the old one back!

If yours is within a year old, try it. Or even if it's rarely used, try it.


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## tubby

brianlhobbs;165058 said:
			
		

> LOL, "Robertson Screws ", as soon as I seen that, I looked to make sure you were in Canada. For some reason those really great screw heads, have yet to catch on in the states.
> 
> Brian we have been using a square headed robinson for years in the states mostly as a galvanized deck screw
> 
> 
> jim


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## jlb

I need to paint my MES yellow, so it looks like a lemon!!

I have owned it four months, and have never liked one thing cooked on it!!!..........

192 is the hottest it has got in six hours today..........

According to my Polder temp gauges.

I have the ribs in the oven, I give up on the MES!

I do not plan on calling Masterbuilt for a replacement, I am going to get $199 worth of fun stomping/kicking this pitiful thing in the dump!!

Rant over..............


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## spg1

Sorry to hear that, I just did a batch of beef short ribs and twice baked potatoes tonight and they were great.  Mine is the newer version that just came out a few months ago.


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## ronp

Me too, sounds like it can be fixed easily.

My food is never a disapointment.


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## beretta92_fs2003

I get to do this repair this weekend, its just not getting up to temp. anymore. Mine is about 1 1/2 years old now so I can not complain. Thanks for all the great info and the pics for the repair.


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## dale5351

I have a four year old Masterbuilt.  The electrical connections have failed twice, once after three years and then again just last week.  The rear panel is attached with screws not rivets, so getting it off was not as much of a problem as was described at the beginning of this thread.  But it was still a bear of a job, and very dirty. 

I have a friend who just bought one from Amazon.  Not only did he get a great price ($169 versus $199 at Bass Pro shops), but his model has an access panel on the rear that allows easy and clean access to the connections.  I guess Masterbuilt finally learned!

Here is a picture he sent me.


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## fourthwind

Ok so after 16 month of Blissfull MES ownership my little 30 inch stopped heating 10° before the end of a smoke on an eye of round.  Masterbuilt made me a decent offer on a new one, but right now it just isnt in the cards..  So THANK YOU guys for the pictures and posts that made it clear what I needed to do to check (and FIX) my MES.  After 2 hours and a little elbow grease the MES is humming right along once again.   It is said that ignorance is bliss..  fortunately I was ignorant of the quality in workmanship when it came to Materbuilts wiring.  I would have been very nervous about doing overnight smokes knowing what I found today.  Sub quality parts, and methods is why these are failing.   There were even arc markings inside the box.  Pre lude to some seriously bad things.


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## ryanhoelzer

Is there any method that's 100% safe leaving unattended overnight?

Hopefully breakers and GFI outlets work if there's a problem..

Has anyone that's experienced the MES wiring issues popped a breaker or outlet building up to the failure?


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## fourthwind

ryanhoelzer said:


> Is there any method that's 100% safe leaving unattended overnight?
> 
> Hopefully breakers and GFI outlets work if there's a problem..
> 
> Has anyone that's experienced the MES wiring issues popped a breaker or outlet building up to the failure?


No your right there really isn't.   However Breakers and GFI cannot and will not always protect you.  Arcing like what I saw could start a fire long before either of those took affect and cut off the electrons.   It has made me re think where I place my smoker.


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## ryanhoelzer

That's more of what I was getting at.  Didn't mean to come off like I kind of did..

It sounds like MasterBuilt has addressed some of those issues.  I'm guessing the failure rate is still fairly small since there hasn't been a recall. 

Out of curiosity, what kind of offer did they make you on a new one?


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## flyweed

for you guys that have done this rewire...did any of you happen to get photos of the full wiring setup, or even a drawn out schematic of your MES?  I am wanting to take the back off of mine, and rewire my heating element too, butI also have plans of wiring in a solid state relay and a new PID controller.  wiring diagrams or photos would be most helpful

THanks

Dan


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## deltadude

This thread may help you...


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## buckman52

This is my first effort at amy posting anywgere so please bear with me.   I have a MES 40" that I have had for about 18 months that has stopped working.  However I do not seem to be having the same wiring problem that has been described and resolved so wonderfully here.   My MES powers up fine and the electronic control works.  I can program in the target temp and the time just fine but as soon as it tries to turn on the heating element it trips the GFCI.  I have tried a different outlet and that one triped also.   I have removed the back and I cannot see and problems with any of the wiring,   Any suggestions????


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## dale5351

I am not an electrician, but it sounds like it is possible that there is a short somewhere in the heating coil circuits.

The times I have had problems, it did not trip the GFI but just stopped heating.  When I opened it up, the bad connection to one prong of the heating element was obvious.

Your case may be that the ground wire has gotten loose or corroded.  I'd recommend unplugging it and then opening it up (do you have an access panel?) and taking a look.


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## fpnmf

I am going to put some shrink fit over the wires and connectors..Looks like that might slow the corrsion down a good bit.

I have some nice shrink with a goey interior that seals everything.

   Craig in Atlanta


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## Bearcarver

Buckman52,

I have to agree with Dale on the short. The newer MES 30s have access panels in the back bottom right. I don't know about MES 40s. My MES 30 is only about 14 months old, and I don't even have that access box. If you don't have one either, you basically have to drill out all of the rivets, all the way around to get in (not a big deal). Then when you're finished fixing, you can replace with self-tappers.

If you do a search on this forum, you can find a lot of MES wiring repair how-tos.

Bear


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## dale5351

Bear,

I saw a MES40 with access panel at Bass Pro.

BTW, you should have been there to see and hear the reaction when I asked the guy if they had sawdust!  They have chips in all sorts of flavors, but he was dumbfounded that anyone would want sawdust.

Here is another sawdust memory for you.  While my dad was in the navy in WWII, we went to live at my grandmother's house in Georgia (very small town).  I can remember seeing the piles of sawdust at a local lumber mill after they had caught (been set on?) fire.  They burned and smoldered for days -- a visible red glow at night.  It is one of my first memories.  I was not yet 6 at the time.


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## buckman52

Unfortunately there is no access panel so I drilled out the umpteen hundred rivits.  There is no visible evidence of any wiring problem.  None of the wires are scorched or turning brown.  All the connections are tight and clean.  Wiring does not seem to be the problem which leads me to think that it is an electronic problem.  I am fairly good at fixing electrical wiring problems but I am at a complete loss when it comes to "electronics".  There is a "box" mounted in the bottom panel that I looked in and there is no indication of a problem there.  I contacted MES and since it is a discontinumed model all they could do is offer me a discount on their new model.  I'ld love the new one but there is still too much life in this one if I can bring it back from the dead to be shelling out that kind of money yet.  Anybody know anything about the controler box in the bottom?


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## Bearcarver

buckman52 said:


> Unfortunately there is no access panel so I drilled out the umpteen hundred rivits.  There is no visible evidence of any wiring problem.  None of the wires are scorched or turning brown.  All the connections are tight and clean.  Wiring does not seem to be the problem which leads me to think that it is an electronic problem.  I am fairly good at fixing electrical wiring problems but I am at a complete loss when it comes to "electronics".  There is a "box" mounted in the bottom panel that I looked in and there is no indication of a problem there.  I contacted MES and since it is a discontinumed model all they could do is offer me a discount on their new model.  I'ld love the new one but there is still too much life in this one if I can bring it back from the dead to be shelling out that kind of money yet.  Anybody know anything about the controler box in the bottom?


It still sounds electrical to me, but I'm certainly no electric or electronic genius.

It just sounds to me like everything is fine until it is under load. 

Maybe try starting a new thread with this question, because there are a lot of guys who know a lot more about this stuff who aren't seeing the question.

Bear


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## sawzall

buckman52 said:


> Unfortunately there is no access panel so I drilled out the umpteen hundred rivits.  There is no visible evidence of any wiring problem.  None of the wires are scorched or turning brown.  All the connections are tight and clean.  Wiring does not seem to be the problem which leads me to think that it is an electronic problem.  I am fairly good at fixing electrical wiring problems but I am at a complete loss when it comes to "electronics".  There is a "box" mounted in the bottom panel that I looked in and there is no indication of a problem there.  I contacted MES and since it is a discontinumed model all they could do is offer me a discount on their new model.  I'ld love the new one but there is still too much life in this one if I can bring it back from the dead to be shelling out that kind of money yet.  Anybody know anything about the controler box in the bottom?


Try unplugging the element, tape up the ends of the wires with electrical tape, plug it in and and see if it still blows the breaker.  It sounds to me like the element is shorted which will drastically reduce the resistance.  This will cause the current draw to increase and trip the breaker. Just be careful you don't electrocute yourself.


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## smoker61

I am absolutely new to the forum...just joined this evening.  I am not sure if I should start a new thread or not.  My problem is that I received a new masterbuilt 30" electric smoker with window and RF control. This moring I followed the procedure for "preseasoning".  The unit started heated up to about 150 degrees and then everything went dead. No problem with the outlet.  I tried resetting the unit and disconnected and reconnected the control panel.  Still nothing.  I've spent the last several hours reading about many wiring problems.  Obviously, I will call Masterbuilt on Monday (they seem to have bankers hours).  Other Forum members seem to indicate Masterbuilt will send me out a refurbished box and I will have to attach the door and install the racks etc myself. Are there other members that have had the same problem and is there anything else I might check out before going down this road with Masterbuilt?


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## Bearcarver

smoker61 said:


> I am absolutely new to the forum...just joined this evening.  I am not sure if I should start a new thread or not.  My problem is that I received a new masterbuilt 30" electric smoker with window and RF control. This moring I followed the procedure for "preseasoning".  The unit started heated up to about 150 degrees and then everything went dead. No problem with the outlet.  I tried resetting the unit and disconnected and reconnected the control panel.  Still nothing.  I've spent the last several hours reading about many wiring problems.  Obviously, I will call Masterbuilt on Monday (they seem to have bankers hours).  Other Forum members seem to indicate Masterbuilt will send me out a refurbished box and I will have to attach the door and install the racks etc myself. Are there other members that have had the same problem and is there anything else I might check out before going down this road with Masterbuilt?


Are you using an extension cord?

If that is a brand new MES 30, and it is a bad unit, you shouldn't be getting anything from Masterbuilt, other than a brand new unit.

Once you know what the problem is, if it's a bad unit, contact Masterbuilt, or PM Darryl "MBtechguy" on this forum.

And Yes---You would get more help if you start a new thread.

Bear


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## smoker61

Bear - Thanks for your help!


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## rvbbq

I also bought a Masterbuilt  electric stainless steel smoker from Sam's, three years ago.  After using it a little over a year, it quit heating.  I called the factory, and was told they would send me a new cabinet, less the door for $180.00.  I would then have $479.00 plus tax, in a $299.00 smoker.  Didn't like that.  I was also told you could not remove the heating element.  Wrong again!  I am working on memory  now......after removing the screws  inside the cabinet, around the heating-element, the element was loose.  It even had a mfg. name on the bracket, and they are on the internet.  My unit also had one of the wire connectors to the heating element burned off.  I bought high temp wire and new connectors to use.  I also mounted a metal electric switch box behind the hearing element.  I had to cut a hole in the back of the cabinet for it to fit, and holes in the back of the switch box for the heating element connections.  It protrudes about 3/4 inch past the back of the cabinet.  After hooking  up,  I gave everything in that electric box two coats of clear spray paint.  Then,  I bought a tube of high heat silicone, and coated all the connections.  I bought a metal plate to cover the switch box, and used more silicone to seal it.  I have never had any more trouble with my smoker....so far.  If I do, I will just remove the switch-box cover and make my repairs.

Yes, Masterbuilt does know about this problem....I told them about it almost two years ago.  Sounds like they didn't listen.  I also told them at that time, I thought the wiring needed to be larger, with  bigger connectors.   RVBBQ


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## smoker61

I contaced Masterbuilt this morning.  Even though the smoker did not complete the preseason process, they refused to send me a new unit.  Only a "box" in which I would have to strip out the dead unit and transfer the parts to the box including the door.  Customer Service suggested that I take it back to Home Depot and get my money back.  I was surprised by their lack of customer service.  I thought is the unit failed out of the box they would have issued me a return authorization and when UPS dropped off a new unit they could pick up the dead unit and return it.  I guess good customer service is also dead!  I took the unit back to my local Home Depot and they processed a credit to my credit card.

In looking at the paperwork, Home Depot placed the order that I placed with Masterbuilt directly and then Masterbuilt shipped directly to me.  So, having to return the smoker leaves me smokeless. A sad end to my story.


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## Bearcarver

smoker61 said:


> I contaced Masterbuilt this morning.  Even though the smoker did not complete the preseason process, they refused to send me a new unit.  Only a "box" in which I would have to strip out the dead unit and transfer the parts to the box including the door.  Customer Service suggested that I take it back to Home Depot and get my money back.  I was surprised by their lack of customer service.  I thought is the unit failed out of the box they would have issued me a return authorization and when UPS dropped off a new unit they could pick up the dead unit and return it.  I guess good customer service is also dead!  I took the unit back to my local Home Depot and they processed a credit to my credit card.
> 
> In looking at the paperwork, Home Depot placed the order that I placed with Masterbuilt directly and then Masterbuilt shipped directly to me.  So, having to return the smoker leaves me smokeless. A sad end to my story.


Didn't HD have one to exchange it with, for you?

That's what Cabelas does.

Bear


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## dseoane

Anybody have a dead Masterbuilt smoker they are looking to part? Preferably with a bad heating element, I just need the controller. 

My controller looks to have smoked itself.

I took it apart to see if I could repair it but they have encased the logic board in some form of silicon, good I guess to help it from getting moist outside but bad as I cannot really do mu repairing on it.

thanks

-d


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## Bearcarver

dseoane said:


> Anybody have a dead Masterbuilt smoker they are looking to part? Preferably with a bad heating element, I just need the controller.
> 
> My controller looks to have smoked itself.
> 
> I took it apart to see if I could repair it but they have encased the logic board in some form of silicon, good I guess to help it from getting moist outside but bad as I cannot really do mu repairing on it.
> 
> thanks
> 
> -d


Welcome d,

Don't know if this guy still has this. It is from 2 months ago, for $20:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/145166/mes-digital-controller-old-style

Also:  Ought to stop in at Roll Call and introduce yourself, so you can be properly Welcomed.

Bear


----------



## dseoane

yes thanks he PM'd me and I ordered it up from him.

-d


----------



## Bearcarver

dseoane said:


> yes thanks he PM'd me and I ordered it up from him.
> 
> -d


Great!!!

I knew I saw it on the "unanswered" list, but I didn't know it was that far back---Took me awhile to find it.

Bear


----------



## mbogo

Hey Kurtsara- better hag on to that little woman of yours!!   Took it upon herself to transfer the goods to another smoker??  Mine would've gone to KFC.......


----------



## galenabob

I just repaired my Masterbuilt Electric Smoker.  Thanks to everyone who wrote out the directions and how to repair the smoker.  The only thing I did differently is I used a 4/40 bolt and nut and drilled the small hole on  the coil a little bit larger to fit the bolt.  I put a crimp connector on the existing wire and bolted it to the connector.  My thought was the bolt would be significantly stronger than solder or a wireless connector alone.

I tested the smoker and it heated up perfectly.

Thanks again...  GalenaBob

My kids asked me to do pork shoulders this weekend...


----------



## ozzy2

Thanks for sharing i just got a electric masterbuilt and have had a propane one for over a year love them.


----------



## dsouzvi

Tim,

You're very lucky that your MES lasted at least 11 months whereas mine did not even last 3 days from the day I first pre-seasoned it. LOL.  I got it from local Samsclub and it is going back today even though I have purchased the extended warranty on it.  I have changed my mind after reading a lot of reviews on it, the flaw in its wiring which would trip the GFCI after very few uses.  But in my case the coil did not even try to burn at all.  when I touched it from my bear hand it was darn cold!


----------



## sdnative1964

Outstanding post with pics and all. I noticed a previous poster silver soldered the new connection. Excellent idea. It's probably overkill for smoker temps but silver does not corrode. The unit will turn into a pile of ferric oxide before that solder joint gives it up. Great job on the DIY fixes, though it's still a bummer that folks are shelling out good cash for a unit that pukes on itself after less than a year. MES needs to get their collective crap in one sock and up the QC on these smokers.


----------



## gary s

Cool


----------



## ladygt

After reading this thread and a bunch of others, I am wondering why people continue to purchase a MES.  Somebody explain it to me because from what I have been reading about the second generation units, there must be poor quality control. Logically wires should not be corroding or heating elements failing if the unit is used properly.


----------



## Bearcarver

LadyGT said:


> After reading this thread and a bunch of others, I am wondering why people continue to purchase a MES.  Somebody explain it to me because from what I have been reading about the second generation units, there must be poor quality control. Logically wires should not be corroding or heating elements failing if the unit is used properly.


You're only reading the bad reports, and most of that is of the Gen #2. Masterbuilt is constantly trying to fix the problems with the Gen #2.

*Meanwhile-------*

Maybe you should read some posts like mine:

Gen #1 MES 40 with Remote control & Window in door.

Never have to open door to see inside.

Remote works from a greater distance than any of my Mavericks.

*Been working perfectly since I bought it over 4 years ago!!!!*

There are many many MES 30 and MES 40 Generation #1 owners with similar stories.

Click below on my Step by Step Index to see All the wonderful things you can smoke with this Awesome Smoker:

Bear


----------



## tropics

Bearcarver said:


> You're only reading the bad reports, and most of that is of the Gen #2. Masterbuilt is constantly trying to fix the problems with the Gen #2.
> 
> *Meanwhile-------*
> 
> Maybe you should read some posts like mine:
> 
> Gen #1 MES 40 with Remote control & Window in door.
> 
> Never have to open door to see inside.
> 
> Remote works from a greater distance than any of my Mavericks.
> 
> *Been working perfectly since I bought it over 4 years ago!!!!*
> 
> There are many many MES 30 and MES 40 Generation #1 owners with similar stories.
> 
> Click below on my Step by Step Index to see All the wonderful things you can smoke with this Awesome Smoker:
> 
> Bear


Bear I have to agree and disagree

Gen #2  - 3 control units and remotes bad / service department sent me new ones, no more problem.

Gen #2  - chip loader blows out  / service department sent me new ones, I replaced that and used a Mail Box with AMNPS

Gen #2 still problems with temp control so I monitor it with a separate thermo probe. 

That was the disagree

Now for smoking these units can produce some of the greatest easiest smokes going.

Learn your unit adjust your times cook to proper IT temp

You to can be happy with a Gen#2


----------



## Bearcarver

tropics said:


> Bear I have to agree and disagree
> 
> Gen #2  - 3 control units and remotes bad / service department sent me new ones, no more problem. *Agree*
> 
> Gen #2  - chip loader blows out  / service department sent me new ones, I replaced that and used a Mail Box with AMNPS  *Agree*
> 
> Gen #2 still problems with temp control so I monitor it with a separate thermo probe. *Agree*
> 
> That was the disagree *  I don't know how you figure that was a disagree. The Gen #2 still has problems, but like I said, they're still working on it.*
> 
> Now for smoking these units can produce some of the greatest easiest smokes going.
> 
> Learn your unit adjust your times cook to proper IT temp *I would do this with any smoker.*
> 
> You to can be happy with a Gen#2  *Of course you can, but the MES Gen #1 is MUCH Better!!!*


*I don't see any disagreement here.*

*My reply on post #75 (above) is my reply to people who unknowingly bad-mouth MES as a whole, because of problems with the Gen #2. That's not fair to the Gen #1 MES.*

*Bear*


----------



## ladygt

tropics said:


> Bear I have to agree and disagree
> 
> Gen #2  - 3 control units and remotes bad / service department sent me new ones, no more problem.
> 
> Gen #2  - chip loader blows out  / service department sent me new ones, I replaced that and used a Mail Box with AMNPS
> 
> Gen #2 still problems with temp control so I monitor it with a separate thermo probe.
> 
> That was the disagree
> 
> Now for smoking these units can produce some of the greatest easiest smokes going.
> 
> Learn your unit adjust your times cook to proper IT temp
> 
> You to can be happy with a Gen#2


Speaking for myself, when spending a large amount of money such as this, one should not have any problems to begin with IMO.  My husband works for the DOD and has been repairing airplanes for 30 years.  I saw the pictures of corroded wires so I asked him what causes corrosion on wires and why heating elements fail.  His response was that corrosion is caused by moisture and/or uncompatible metals being used. As for the heating element, poor quality. I live in the Deep South and the humidity is horrible for the majority of the year.  If this item is kept outside on a covered porch, then the insides are going to corrode over time because I do not think the shell is air/water tight. One may say to cover it, but that won't help either because I have covered my vinyl patio furniture for the winter and still got black mold growing on it by springtime. I have brass and painted wrought iron stuff inside and outside our home and they have been affected by the humidity. Those items are either pitted or have become rusty.

I would like to know if MB customer service sends out replacement parts for free after the warranty has expired.  It seems to me that a 90 day warranty is worthless if you smoke minimum 1x a month. If the thermometer probes are not accurate, then they are not worth using either. A lot of newbies, like my husband, purchased a Gen. 2 expecting the unit to work as advertised on QVC. It just blows my mind to read so many people having to repair smokers.  I am not bad mouthing MB, just voicing my thoughts after reading so many posts about their products.  People naturally remember the bad stuff more than the good.


----------



## shimsham

LadyGT said:


> I would like to know if MB customer service sends out replacement parts for free after the warranty has expired.



I called MB about 4 months after buying my Gen 2 40". They shipped a new control panel free of charge, no questions asked the next day. Their customer service is excellent.


----------



## fdpiper

Thank you  for resurrecting this post!!!! My MES was a Christmas gift and heating were bad after 7-8 smokes, but after 3 mos. Last winter was way too cold and snowy (deep snowy!) to get it outside. I will work on this this fall.

I am now using a thermometer inside for the heat and adjusting the temperature manually to get it up to temperature. I hope this will fix it.

All the best!


----------



## ladygt

shimsham said:


> I called MB about 4 months after buying my Gen 2 40". They shipped a new control panel free of charge, no questions asked the next day. Their customer service is excellent.


Control panel had to be replaced after 4 months? Holy cow! How many uses did it get before it had to be replaced?


----------



## shimsham

LadyGT said:


> Control panel had to be replaced after 4 months? Holy cow! How many uses did it get before it had to be replaced?



When I first got it I noticed the temp was off by about 15-20 degrees. I could work around that. But as I used it more, the temp discrepancy would get worse and worse, until after 4 months it would be off by 50-60 degrees. 

I was skeptical when MB told me that a new control panel would fix it, but it now reads within 2 degrees of my Maverick. 

Swapping panels was easy - 4 screws and 5 minutes.


----------



## jted

LadyGT said:


> Speaking for myself, when spending a large amount of money such as this, one should not have any problems to begin with IMO.  My husband works for the DOD and has been repairing airplanes for 30 years.  I saw the pictures of corroded wires so I asked him what causes corrosion on wires and why heating elements fail.  His response was that corrosion is caused by moisture and/or uncompatible metals being used. As for the heating element, poor quality. I live in the Deep South and the humidity is horrible for the majority of the year.  If this item is kept outside on a covered porch, then the insides are going to corrode over time because I do not think the shell is air/water tight. One may say to cover it, but that won't help either because I have covered my vinyl patio furniture for the winter and still got black mold growing on it by springtime. I have brass and painted wrought iron stuff inside and outside our home and they have been affected by the humidity. Those items are either pitted or have become rusty.
> 
> I would like to know if MB customer service sends out replacement parts for free after the warranty has expired.  It seems to me that a 90 day warranty is worthless if you smoke minimum 1x a month. If the thermometer probes are not accurate, then they are not worth using either. A lot of newbies, like my husband, purchased a Gen. 2 expecting the unit to work as advertised on QVC. It just blows my mind to read so many people having to repair smokers.  I am not bad mouthing MB, just voicing my thoughts after reading so many posts about their products.  People naturally remember the bad stuff more than the good.


Hi, I agree with you hole hardidly In my opinion the gen 2 units are not worth buying. I do have to say that Masterbuilt service is very good. They do take you claims on a case by case basis. They replaced my unit after 11 months. no charge free shipping. I did have to prove I bought it and when they replaced it with the new one I had to send the cord (plug + 2 feet and the data plate ) Back to Georgia. 

 I live in Va and our summers are humid and I keep my smoker outside on the patio covered with a good cover that extends10 inches below the smoker.  I do keep my controller inside out of the weather. Since your husband is a trades man I have no doubt he can keep it running if he wants.  Jted


----------



## ladygt

What I have learned about Masterbuilt in the short time here is that the Gen. II has a lot of problems and customer service will take care of you. What I do not understand is why are the units faulty to begin with.  My husband does not want to repair anything and I do not want to either.  If the parts sent from Customer Service are better then why aren't they used at the factory? The more I read about their products, the less inclined I am to take a chance on purchasing another. An electrical product seems to be more trouble than they are worth. Maybe I should look at other options.


----------



## baton420

Hello everyone,

I have a pretty usual Canadian problem.

drum rolls........

a squirrel ate my electric cable. So today or tomorrow i am planning on fixing it. but after seeing those pictures posted by "Homebbrew and BBQ" i am a bit confused. The cable looks like it is going through the insulation. Will i have to remove it and put new foam insulation? and mine is a bit different. My electrical cable goes in the body in the middle of the unit not on the side. I am not all that of a handy man, could open it and close without casualties on both ends... but insulation?never done it. Any advice?                                                                                                                                                                             













Death Virdict.jpg



__ baton420
__ Mar 14, 2015


----------



## Bearcarver

LadyGT said:


> What I have learned about Masterbuilt in the short time here is that the Gen. II has a lot of problems and customer service will take care of you. What I do not understand is why are the units faulty to begin with. My husband does not want to repair anything and I do not want to either. If the parts sent from Customer Service are better then why aren't they used at the factory? The more I read about their products, the less inclined I am to take a chance on purchasing another. An electrical product seems to be more trouble than they are worth. Maybe I should look at other options.


They can't very well change the many thousands of smokers they already sent out. All they can do is make changes to the ones they're currently building & try to get replacement parts to the ones out there with problems.

The important thing is to research before you buy. That way not so many people would have bought the Gen #2, because it was all over this forum.

Bear


----------



## gary s

Good advice    "Research"

Gary


----------



## al795

Thanks for the FYI, Tbone Tim. I'm using mine as I reply.


----------



## baton420

Guys, today i have repaired the power cord that was eaten by a squirrel and made a post about it with pictures. If anyone is interested here it is.
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/182067/masterbuilt-30-smoker-power-cord-repair


----------



## Bearcarver

Baton420 said:


> Guys, today i have repaired the power cord that was eaten by a squirrel and made a post about it with pictures. If anyone is interested here it is.
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/182067/masterbuilt-30-smoker-power-cord-repair


Now you gotta fix the squirrels!!!

Last year it cost us almost $600 to get Mrs Bear's SUV fixed. Something got in the engine & chewed off a wire to the "Knock Sensor".

A squirrel is too big to get in there, but the teeth marks were bigger than from a mouse, so we figure it was a Chipmunk. #$%^&*

Bear


----------



## litterbug

Bearcarver said:


> Now you gotta fix the squirrels!!!
> 
> Last year it cost us almost $600 to get Mrs Bear's SUV fixed. Something got in the engine & chewed off a wire to the "Knock Sensor".
> 
> A squirrel is too big to get in there, but the teeth marks were bigger than from a mouse, so we figure it was a Chipmunk. #$%^&*
> 
> 
> Bear



Maybe you just need to leave some bear scat lying around. I've heard that stuff would chase off small critters.   Lmao


----------



## Bearcarver

Litterbug said:


> Maybe you just need to leave some bear scat lying around. I've heard that stuff would chase off small critters. Lmao


Never tried that, but the full Bears didn't seem to do any good!!

Lookout and 3 guards on duty:


----------



## cutbaits

My 30 died on the 3rd cook.  
It was 110 days old when I emailed them.  To my surprise they mailed me the new updated version with front control panel free of charge.  A lot of disappointment but can't say enough for them sending me a complete unit


----------



## luis missura

Hey all... I've had my 1st gen 40 inch stainless/window smoker for about 18 months... And it went kaput tonight. I really don't know anything about electrical work, but I can't really afford to just replace the smoker altogether.
The smoker started tripping the breaker during use about 3 months ago, and tonight the heating element went cold mid smoke. Heating light is on, but it won't work.
I have a good feeling that MB won't be too helpful when I call them tomorrow.

I hate to ask you guys to spoon feed me how to fix the wiring in this thing... But I have NO experience rewiring things.


----------



## fdpiper

Hello Luis, give then a call and talk to them. They were very helpful to me when I called. The first lady I spoke with was not a technical person, but when I started asking about the resistance readings & asking what they should be, she forwarded me to an engineering person. She was very helpful & identified my problem as the controller. Even though I was over the warranty period, she sent me a new part. I was very satisfied with the help I received.


----------



## luis missura

Thank you. I sure will call. I just have no idea what questions to ask. Resistance for example.


----------



## jp61

Luis Missura said:


> Hey all... I've had my 1st gen 40 inch stainless/window smoker for about 18 months... And it went kaput tonight. I really don't know anything about electrical work, but I can't really afford to just replace the smoker altogether.
> The smoker started tripping the breaker during use about 3 months ago, and tonight the heating element went cold mid smoke. Heating light is on, but it won't work.
> I have a good feeling that MB won't be too helpful when I call them tomorrow.
> 
> I hate to ask you guys to spoon feed me how to fix the wiring in this thing... But I have NO experience rewiring things.


Do a search on here for repairs, there's all kinds of helpful info. Probably one of the wires connected to heating element burned off and needs repaired. The heating element is probably still good. Open it up and take a look.

Either way, good luck!


----------



## Bearcarver

Luis Missura said:


> Thank you. I sure will call. I just have no idea what questions to ask. Resistance for example.





JP61 said:


> Do a search on here for repairs, there's all kinds of helpful info. Probably one of the wires connected to heating element burned off and needs repaired. The heating element is probably still good. Open it up and take a look.
> 
> Either way, good luck!










    I used the link below when my connector burned out after 5 years of use.

It's probably just the connector, and you don't have to replace the wiring.

Check this out:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/89886/mes-wiring-upgrade-mod

Bear


----------



## luis missura

Bearcarver said:


> :yeahthat:    I used the link below when my connector burned out after 5 years of use.
> It's probably just the connector, and you don't have to replace the wiring.
> 
> Check this out:
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/89886/mes-wiring-upgrade-mod
> 
> 
> Bear


----------



## luis missura

I was just sold a new element for $20. Should get it soon. If that doesn't work she offered to send me a new box for $90 shipped. Replacing the wires should be cheaper if need be.


----------



## pork loin man

In the same way as some others I was all primed and the loins were marinated and ready to go this morning at 6:00 a.m. as I ran out into the teen wind chill to get my little smoker going.  Much to my surprise, nothing happened when I hit the power button.  Just a clicking sound in the control module on top.  If anyone has had this issue, please let me know.  I am wondering if a replacement control module is in order.  This is the first issue I have had and I have used my smoker probably a couple dozen times over the past 2 years. 

Thanks for the heads up on the connections, looks like a nice afternoon rebuild in order in the near future.  OH, and the loins are safely in a backup "old crusty" smoker that I built in high school.  I just have to baby sit them now until lunch.


----------



## pat in pa

I have a Masterbuilt 30.  Having a similar problem where it was tripping the GFCI outlet and then all of a sudden the element stopped getting hot.  I have the newer version with the wiring external so I checked all of that and it seems intact and clean.  I'm assuming it's the element but I wanted to make sure it's not something else.  The controls turn on and work correctly.  It just doesn't heat up.


----------



## cliff43j

Whoa boy!  This is an old thread...I picked up a used, digitally-controlled MES with a remote today.  The price was right - I just had to go to pick it up.  Of course it doesn't work.  He said that it worked the last time that he had used it, about 6 months ago, but when he tried it last week it wouldn't heat up.  I suspect that it has something to do with the wiring and heating element. 

The photos on this thread don't open up anymore.  Is there any chance that someone can reply and post some pictures so that I know what I need to do?

Does anyone have some of that heat resistant wire left over that they'd liken to sell?  What length of wire is needed & the gage?

Thank you :-)

Cliff.


----------



## Bearcarver

Cliff43J said:


> Whoa boy!  This is an old thread...I picked up a used, digitally-controlled MES with a remote today.  The price was right - I just had to go to pick it up.  Of course it doesn't work.  He said that it worked the last time that he had used it, about 6 months ago, but when he tried it last week it wouldn't heat up.  I suspect that it has something to do with the wiring and heating element.
> 
> The photos on this thread don't open up anymore.  Is there any chance that someone can reply and post some pictures so that I know what I need to do?
> 
> Does anyone have some of that heat resistant wire left over that they'd liken to sell?  What length of wire is needed & the gage?
> 
> Thank you :-)
> 
> Cliff.


Hi Cliff,

 I used the link below when my connector burned out after 5 years of use.

Most of the time it's just the connector, and you don't have to replace the wiring.

Check this out:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/89886/mes-wiring-upgrade-mod

Bear


----------



## w2hr

The Robertson screw is the Canadian version of our USA Square drive screws of different square drive dimension. There are several  choices of screw makeup & sizes readily available at any of your big box stores that have a decent supply for the builders. I Really like them & so damn tired of those cross top or "Phillips" & many years ago went to square or thorax type.

Harold from Grants Pass, OR


----------



## cliff43j

Gotta luv the Robertson drive screw!!!  He tried to get Detroit interested in it, but the cheap so-and-so's wouldn't give him even a tiny royalty.  The Robertson was and still is superior to any other drive.  Detroit went to all sorts of fasteners, including hex-head, Torx, and a few which have since all but disappeared.  They could have paid Robertson a few dollars and made all of our lives simpler.

I did pick up my non-working MES, took a look at it and got it working!  Ya ba da ba do!!!  This morning I bought some vinegar, some fresh spices, and a small (10#) brisket.  Now to clean up the MES, get some pecan wood and start smokin'!  I may go to the Hong Kong Market or Viet Hoa grocery store in Houston to buy a fresh pork belly too.  They do have lovely pork at both places in addition to great fresh fish, various crabs, and shell fish :-)


----------



## cliff43j

Nit picking, but the Robertson is not the Canadian version of the U.S. square drive.  It was invented in Canada by a guy named Robertson who gave it his name - the Robertson drive.  The square drive is the U. S. version of the Robertson drive, after the patent ran out, of course - we had to call it something and couldn't use "Robertson", so "square drive" was the rather obvious choice.


----------



## pat in pa

I was having the same problems.  I ordered the new element kit because mine was pretty far gone.  Installed it and still nothing.  I didn't switch out the connectors because they didn't seem to be bad.  I guess I'll try that before I call again but any guesses what it could be if that's not it?  The control unit?  The electronics seem to work.  Turns on, set temp, heating light comes on, just the element never gets hot.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks


----------



## campchef1

1. make sure the wires are firmly attached to the connectors.

2. also you may have moisture in the wires or the controller. Place your smoker in a warm place for a couple days or remove the controller and bring in your house.

hope this helps


----------



## fluffmeister

I'm having an issue with my probe. It's reading a continuous 310 degrees. Any help on this would be great. I hate having to open my MES just to check temps.


----------



## marctrees

Buzzkill warning ----   I cannot believe the volume of people buying Electronic MES's with all the probable problems.

Don't folks research before they buy?????

The housing and all is a fair deal for the money -- door setup, hinges, racks,  etc., 

But NOT the electronics.

Buy MES Analog for most smokes,like if you search, as low as around $120.

And then add a Maverick or Smoke remote therm.

THEN ,  if you need finer more controlled heat ( like for technical sausage smoking)THEN add aftermarket Auber controller.

Other upgrades possible after that,IF NEEDED----- AMNPS, and possibly "Mailbox".

But you do NOT need it for most meats.

AMNPS for multi hour smokes w/o having to reload chips.

DONE.

Folks do not study readily available info.             Marc


----------



## marctrees

Pat in Pa - The element itself either works, or it does not.

There is no middle iffy guess

It does not "wear out" and change, it just fails, on OR off, can happen, but rarely.  

It is always almost a connection problem, MES notorious for that.              Marc


----------



## campchef1

Marc +. The electric smoker is the easiest way to B.B.Q.. that said it also requires more maintenance over charcoal,wood or gas. Moisture is a by product of smoking in your cabinet. Electrical components like the wire contact points or the analog / digital element tend to corrode over time. Often electric smokers are left outside in the elements fog, dew and rain?

It takes very little moisture to trip a G.F.C.I breaker or burn up a wire. This can even be problematic even for the Aurber PID controler or the probe of the maverick thermometer you mention.

The best preventative maintenance is to never smoke outside in moisture, keep it under cover and store your smoker inside when not in use.

Thanks


----------



## pat in pa

Mine was a gift so didn't have a choice. Being a rookie I will ashamedly admit that I left it uncovered in the rain so I'm guessing that is what fried everything. I'll swap out the connectors next. Can someone please post the part numbers for a new temp. Control?  I guess that'll be my next swap out should the connectors not work


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> Mine was a gift so didn't have a choice. Being a rookie I will ashamedly admit that I left it uncovered in the rain so I'm guessing that is what fried everything. I'll swap out the connectors next. Can someone please post the part numbers for a new temp. Control? I guess that'll be my next swap out should the connectors not work


I would first replace the connectors.

Then if it still doesn't work, I would call them & tell them about it.

You will probably need your Model & Serial Numbers, because I don't think just any control fits any smoker model.

They might even send you a new controller for FREE, if you talk nice---Wouldn't be the first time.

Best of Luck,

Bear


----------



## pat in pa

> Originally Posted by Bearcarver
> 
> I would first replace the connectors.
> 
> Then if it still doesn't work, I would call them & tell them about it.
> 
> You will probably need your Model & Serial Numbers, because I don't think just any control fits any smoker model.
> 
> They might even send you a new controller for FREE, if you talk nice---Wouldn't be the first time.
> 
> Best of Luck,
> 
> Bear


Ok I swapped out the element and put the new connectors on.  Still doing the same thing.  

So I called Masterbuilt and all they will do for me is send another element kit even after I told them they just sent me a brand new one.  Anybody know the replacement part number for the controller?  That almost has to be what it is, everything else seems to work correctly it just doesn't get hot.

Thanks


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> Ok I swapped out the element and put the new connectors on.  Still doing the same thing.
> 
> So I called Masterbuilt and all they will do for me is send another element kit even after I told them they just sent me a brand new one.  Anybody know the replacement part number for the controller?  That almost has to be what it is, everything else seems to work correctly it just doesn't get hot.
> 
> Thanks


You said yours is a "Newer one".

By "Newer" does that mean a Bluetooth?

If it is, I know some guys had trouble with their Bluetooth, which gave them the opportunity to get an RF Control & Remote to replace the Bluetooth control & Remote.

Maybe they won't give you one, but they might sell you one. Just have your Model Number ready.

Bear


----------



## pat in pa

No newer as in it has the compartment in the back for the connectors. It's a 2013 model.


----------



## w2hr

You know being a rookie  I have done one hell of a lot of research. Yes I have an entry level smoker, a Meco with already some mods & when I do upgrade I sure will adhere to one heck of a lot of what I have been fortunate to learn on the forums. I also know here in Southern Oregon it is almost a toss up if you can't have your grill or smoker under some kind of cover for the long winter as to weather it is better to cover or not, I have found even with cover & inside or covered a small 7.5 watt incessant lamp within the cover really keeps moisture in control.  My thoughts   are still the same do a lot of reading & listen to the forum you will only advance your knowledge & skills

Harold from Grants Pass, OR


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> No newer as in it has the compartment in the back for the connectors. It's a 2013 model.


Which Model---Generation is it ??  Gen #1, Gen #2, or Gen #2.5 ??
 

Here's how to tell:

*MES Generation Number Recognition Pictures & Pics (Digital Units)*

Bear


----------



## pat in pa

It's the MES 30.  It's the newer version that they got smarter and put the connectors to the element in a small compartment in the back so you don't have to take the whole back off to get to them.


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> It's the MES 30.  It's the newer version that they got smarter and put the connectors to the element in a small compartment in the back so you don't have to take the whole back off to get to them.


That doesn't tell which Generation it is.

In order to help you, it sometimes has to be known.

More than one generation has the elements in the little compartment.

Look at the Link I gave you & see if it's a Gen #1, Gen #2, or Gen #2.5.

Thanks,

Bear


----------



## pat in pa

It looks identical to the MES 30 generation 1.  I didn't see pictures for the 30 for generation 2 and 2.5 or are the changes the same as the 40?


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> It looks identical to the MES 30 generation 1.  I didn't see pictures for the 30 for generation 2 and 2.5 or are the changes the same as the 40?


Yes--The changes for the MES 30 and the MES 40 are basically the same.

Bear


----------



## bigforkg

Pat in PA said:


> It looks identical to the MES 30 generation 1.  I didn't see pictures for the 30 for generation 2 and 2.5 or are the changes the same as the 40?


What is your model # or serial # that would help people so they can help you.


----------



## pat in pa

It's the Generation 1 then.  The model # is 20070910.


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> It's the Generation 1 then.  The model # is 20070910.


OK---Good---It's a Gen #1. Now it's easier to say what I would do.

That means you don't have a Bluetooth, and your control is not built into the top front edge of the smoker.

Your control is in an attachable box mounted on the center, back of the top of your smoker.

I would call MB & tell them you want a new controller that matches up with your Model number.

Be nice & Remind them about all the trouble you've had & maybe they'll send you one for free,

Bear


----------



## ssajn

Anyone have this problem? The other day while getting out my smoker I noticed a crack in the top of the door. This is a picture of the door on my 40. The same thing happened to my 30. Should I contact Masterbuilt or just fix it myself? The 40 was purchased on Black Friday from Academy and the 30 is about a year and a half purchased from Lowe's.













cracked door.jpg



__ ssajn
__ Feb 22, 2017


----------



## pat in pa

Ok thanks Bear.  I called them after I had initially replaced the connectors and the element and they would only send me another element.  They sent it for free so I guess I'll try that even though I'm almost positive that that's not the problem.  After that I'll try and sweet talk them for a new controller.

Thanks for the help


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> Ok thanks Bear.  I called them after I had initially replaced the connectors and the element and they would only send me another element.  They sent it for free so I guess I'll try that even though I'm almost positive that that's not the problem.  After that I'll try and sweet talk them for a new controller.
> 
> Thanks for the help


Sounds like a good plan.

Bear


----------



## Bearcarver

ssajn said:


> Anyone have this problem? The other day while getting out my smoker I noticed a crack in the top of the door. This is a picture of the door on my 40. The same thing happened to my 30. Should I contact Masterbuilt or just fix it myself? The 40 was purchased on Black Friday from Academy and the 30 is about a year and a half purchased from Lowe's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cracked door.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ ssajn
> __ Feb 22, 2017


It's hard to tell how bad that is in the pic, but it wouldn't hurt to call them, and maybe send them a Pic.

If you can fix it you could at least tell them about it, in case it gets worse, and you need a new door.

Bear


----------



## reidwall

Had same issue with my Gen 1 we purchased from OVC. Called Materbuilt wanting to buy just the small plastic top on the door but they wanted to sell me a whole door. My experience with their customer service is that they are running from any and all issues, I have always been kind and respectful with whoever I'm talking to. I love the smoker and the only problem I've had with its operation was a few weeks back when it was cold it wouldn't start so I brought the controller inside and let it warm up and it started and ran great. Just bought the the amazin pellet tray and absolutely love it! 













IMG_0096.JPG



__ reidwall
__ Feb 23, 2017


















IMG_0097.JPG



__ reidwall
__ Feb 23, 2017


----------



## marctrees

I have resisted saying for DAYSSSS now, but I can't any longer.

I know this does not help THIS  specific thread, but I want to get the word out to future Masterbuilt buying prospects that may read this prior to purchase.

The volume of Electronic "Digital" Masterbuilt Smoker problems of varying technical sorting, is frickin Insane.

VERY, WAY to high % differing "failures"

AND, there is no Plastic in the construction, only Steel.

Thank God, I am a reader, and purchased a Masterbuilt "Old School" Analog after all my research on the SMF.

I HIGHLY suggest buying prospects to do their search study here, in the "Electric Smokers" SubForum,  than decide what to buy.

Marc


----------



## dr k

Marctrees said:


> I have resisted saying for DAYSSSS now, but I can't any longer.
> 
> I know this does not help this thread, but I want to get the word out to future Masterbuilt buying prospects.
> 
> The volume of Electronic "Digital" Masterbuilt Smoker problems of varying technical sorting, is frickin Insane.
> 
> VERY, WAY to high % differing "failures"
> 
> Thank God, I am a reader, and purchased a Masterbuilt "Old School" Analog after my research.
> 
> Marc


The heating element in the digital mes not being centered in the smoker because it would cost more to make a longer chip loader tunnel blows me away. Then the top vent on the gen 2.5 could be in the top center rear not directly over food for condesation to drip on. At least that would eliminate interior mods for even heating. I don't have mes digital controller issues yet and have never used chips so the heating element is exposed since I removed the interior chip burning system. I do need to get down low for occassional sausage smokes. The original heating element connectors didn't last a year but that was an easy fix. The designs over the years with not getting the units symmetrical in everyway is perplexing. When this gen1 40 hiccups I'll gut it for parts and recyle the box/door or give it away and plug in my back up identical. When that fails I'll PID. Then when the heating elements fail MB may have a gen 5 that is symetrical or whater and I can start over. Or just do what you did. I do like insulated smokers. 
-Kurt


----------



## Bearcarver

Dr K said:


> The heating element in the digital mes not being centered in the smoker because it would cost more to make a longer chip loader tunnel blows me away. Then the top vent on the gen 2.5 could be in the top center rear not directly over food for condesation to drip on. At least that would eliminate interior mods for even heating. I don't have mes digital controller issues yet and have never used chips so the heating element is exposed since I removed the interior chip burning system. I do need to get down low for occassional sausage smokes. The original heating element connectors didn't last a year but that was an easy fix. The designs over the years with not getting the units symmetrical in everyway is perplexing. When this gen1 40 hiccups I'll gut it for parts and recyle the box/door or give it away and plug in my back up identical. When that fails I'll PID. Then when the heating elements fail MB may have a gen 5 that is symetrical or whater and I can start over. Or just do what you did. I do like insulated smokers.
> -Kurt


Hi Kurt,
My Gen #2.5 doesn't need any mod, like my Gen #1 did. Moving the Top vent to the back left worked fine, and the vent isn't right in the middle of the top, dripping on the food, like the CookShack my Son had used to do. The Gen #2.5 is Awesome!!!

Putting the heating element in the center would have made more unusable space in the smoker, because the farther away from the side it is, the higher it has to come through the wall. Probably more of a reason than the cost of a longer chip loader chute.

Bear


----------



## marctrees

Again, for buying prospects, the MES analog models have a double sheet metal wall, but NO foam insulation like the "Digitals".

So, in the Analog, the element is 1500w, in the digitals, approx 1/2 that.

I DO NOT KNOW if the Analog has a higher interior peak temp than the Digital, BUT I do know it will last w/o trouble statistically WAY WAY WAY longer.  

Want something more accurate or limited Temp then you need for 90% of meats?  Then get  and add an Auber plug and play for the Analog, and leave the original controller knob on "High".

And for low smoking temps, AMNPS for your consistent smoke source that does not depend on smoker element being "On".

TOTALLY independant of smoker element heat.           Marc


----------



## tjnamtiw

I have the 40" digital version.  It has, according to their website, a 1200 watt element.  As for lasting way long, I'm calling BS on that one!

I've had the heater connection burn out twice now mandating that I finish my pulled pork in the oven!  Also, I've replaced the control panel once.  These things are JUNK!  Also, anyone that can keep the glass window even moderately clean is OCD to the max.  It got covered before I ever finished the first pork butt.  Now I just kick myself for spending an extra hundred bucks for the glass that's buried under the grime.  This POS has not been engineered.  It's been pulled out of someone's nightmare.

My smoker now sits in the garage, where it's always been, waiting for me to fix the heater AGAIN!  The wiring, IF YOU CAN GET AT IT, is marginal at best and may meet CHINESE standards, but it's scary to see how it's wired.  JUNK JUNK JUNK

Oh, and yes, my plastic pieces have all cracked too.  AND my touch panel covering is all wrinkled and nasty looking.  Can't wait to see what MB wants to replace it AGAIN!  This might be a project for a Raspberry Pi!!!!!


----------



## dr k

Dr K said:


> The heating element in the digital mes not being centered in the smoker because it would cost more to make a longer chip loader tunnel blows me away. Then the top vent on the gen 2.5 could be in the top center rear not directly over food for condesation to drip on. At least that would eliminate interior mods for even heating. I don't have mes digital controller issues yet and have never used chips so the heating element is exposed since I removed the interior chip burning system. I do need to get down low for occassional sausage smokes. The original heating element connectors didn't last a year but that was an easy fix. The designs over the years with not getting the units symmetrical in everyway is perplexing. When this gen1 40 hiccups I'll gut it for parts and recyle the box/door or give it away and plug in my back up identical. When that fails I'll PID. Then when the heating elements fail MB may have a gen 5 that is symetrical or whater and I can start over. Or just do what you did. I do like insulated smokers.
> -Kurt





Bearcarver said:


> Hi Kurt,
> My Gen #2.5 doesn't need any mod, like my Gen #1 did. Moving the Top vent to the back left worked fine, and the vent isn't right in the middle of the top, dripping on the food, like the CookShack my Son had used to do. The Gen #2.5 is Awesome!!!
> 
> Putting the heating element in the center would have made more unusable space in the smoker, because the farther away from the side it is, the higher it has to come through the wall. Probably more of a reason than the cost of a longer chip loader chute.
> 
> Bear


Hi Bear

I didn't clarify all digital Mes top vents are in proximity to the back wall (including the gen 2 top side vent.) My intended meaning was to put the top vent in between the gen1 and gen 2.5 top vents (centered between those two at the back of the smoker so no condensation drips on food) if the element was centered in the bottom.  Then if the element was centered in the bottom, the chip burner dumper system accessed under the door (looking at the door from the front) maybe identical to the side systems we owners know. If you took one of your chainsaws and cut down the middle of any digital mes from the front looking at the door and those two halves are identical on the inside, that's the smoker I want (but doesn't exist.) I have empathy for those of us that haven't had five years of flawless operation but dream of what we think could be perfection.  All's good!

-Kurt


----------



## Bearcarver

Dr K said:


> Hi Bear
> 
> I didn't clarify all digital Mes top vents are in proximity to the back wall (including the gen 2 top side vent.) My intended meaning was to put the top vent in between the gen1 and gen 2.5 top vents (centered between those two at the back of the smoker so no condensation drips on food) if the element was centered in the bottom.  Then if the element was centered in the bottom, the chip burner dumper system accessed under the door (looking at the door from the front) maybe identical to the side systems we owners know. If you took one of your chainsaws and cut down the middle of any digital mes from the front looking at the door and those two halves are identical on the inside, that's the smoker I want (but doesn't exist.) I have empathy for those of us that haven't had five years of flawless operation but dream of what we think could be perfection.  All's good!
> 
> -Kurt


I think I know what you're saying, Kurt, however if you look at the pains they went through in the way they shaped the cover over the inside of the Chip dumper in the Gen#2.5, and the way they made the water pan "Split-Level bottom", you'll understand what I meant by them not wanting to move the element to the center, because they don't want to lose any space by moving the chip dumper up any higher. They need more height for the chute to have the proper drop down to the chip pan, if they would move the Heating element to the center, where *WE* would like it to be.

And since the heating element is on the right, the top vent is better on the top left than on the top center.

And I realize you meant Center near the back, but if I load my Smoker, I avoid putting meat under the back left corner, in case it ever drips, and I would find that more of a PITA if that was in the Center Back.

BTW: Not that it has anything to do with the MES, but that CookShack my Son had years ago had the top vent in the center & pretty far from the back. (Talk about bad design)

Bear


----------



## robbsmokin

The top frame (plastic) cracked on my 40", too. I called MB and they sent me a brand new door, no charge, way after the warrantee ran out. Excellent service!


----------



## Bearcarver

RobbSmokin said:


> The top frame (plastic) cracked on my 40", too. I called MB and they sent me a brand new door, no charge, way after the warrantee ran out. Excellent service!


Great !! 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Over the 7 1/2 years I've been here I've seen that kind of thing done many times by Masterbuilt.

Thanks for Posting that, Robb!!

Bear


----------



## smoker21

So I have a question to all who have cracked plastic.  When not in use, where do yo keep it?

My gen 1, 40", is going on five years now and I've never had any plastic problems.  Having said that, it does live in my garage when not in use.

JD


----------



## tjnamtiw

Mine lives in  the garage as well in Georgia and it has cracks everywhere. It was just lousy injection molded part design with stress risers.


----------



## dr k

Smoker21 said:


> So I have a question to all who have cracked plastic.  When not in use, where do yo keep it?
> 
> My gen 1, 40", is going on five years now and I've never had any plastic problems.  Having said that, it does live in my garage when not in use.
> 
> JD


My Gen 1 40 will be 2 yrs. Old in May. It has always been outside covered down to the chip loader for air circulation and under my house eve. The back faces south and chip loader side faces west. The hinge cover is falling apart as well as the top door trim. In the summer it's shaded most of the time. 
-Kurt


----------



## smoke n brew

I have the propane powered M XL, and have sometimes wished I had a more set it and forget it (without mods from me) electric smoker. Even though I have seen the MES at deep discount off-season at Walmart, it appears a good choice I did not purchase the MES. For those that own one and don't belong to a great forum like this one, I do wonder how many how many are sitting in the corner of a garage somewhere collecting dust? I will say if I see one on CL for less than $50 I may give it a try.


----------



## smoker21

Smoke N Brew said:


> I have the propane powered M XL, and have sometimes wished I had a more set it and forget it (without mods from me) electric smoker. Even though I have seen the MES at deep discount off-season at Walmart, it appears a good choice I did not purchase the MES. For those that own one and don't belong to a great forum like this one, I do wonder how many how many are sitting in the corner of a garage somewhere collecting dust? I will say if I see one on CL for less than $50 I may give it a try.



I have both. The electric is set it and forget it for the most part, but it needs a bunch of help in the smoke part.  The XL 44, needs a way to control temp.  Neither are perfect. But the electric with a pellet burner is pretty darn good.


JD


----------



## Bearcarver

7 1/2 years ago, My first MES was an MES 30. I had it 3 years, before I got my Gen #1 MES 40. I sold the MES 30 for $50, and that guy still uses it today.

I used my MES 40 Gen #1 for 5 years, and still works fine, but I have a Gen #2.5 now for 2 years, and it works Awesome.

The newest one had a cracked piece of trim (From Shipping) on the top front. I took a picture of it & told them about it, and they sent me a replacement part.

All of them spent their whole turn on my front porch, under roof, with the cheap stock cover, and only got wind blown rain or snow on the cover.

They all survived Wind, Sun, Cold, heat, Humidity, and very little rain & snow, and were never affected.

I don't use the built in chip burner on any of them. I only use my AMNPS & my AMNS for creating Perfect Smoke.

Bear


----------



## beedee

Man, you guys are making me think twice about purchasing a Gen 1 MES 30. It's great to read all the real world stuff that has been going on with the MES brand. Refreshing to read their c/s is good when it comes time to contacting them. 

I'm brand new to the smoke world so I was considering a MES 30, not so sure anymore though.


----------



## ssajn

My 30 lived under a water proof cover for a few months and has never been exposed to the weather. Since I got my 40 they both have been stored in a shed.

I've sent an email to CS and am waiting for their reply. I'll give it a few more days and call if I haven't heard from them.


----------



## Bearcarver

beedee said:


> Man, you guys are making me think twice about purchasing a Gen 1 MES 30. It's great to read all the real world stuff that has been going on with the MES brand. Refreshing to read their c/s is good when it comes time to contacting them.
> 
> I'm brand new to the smoke world so I was considering a MES 30, not so sure anymore though.


If you get either the Gen #1 or the Gen #2.5, any problem you could have is normally taken care of by Masterbuilt.

Those two are Awesome Smokers, especially for the low prices you can get them for.

Bear


----------



## Bearcarver

ssajn said:


> My 30 lived under a water proof cover for a few months and has never been exposed to the weather. Since I got my 40 they both have been stored in a shed.
> 
> I've sent an email to CS and am waiting for their reply. I'll give it a few more days and call if I haven't heard from them.


I never tried to Email them.

And I personally haven't had to call them for years, but it seems the majority of folks who do end up with good results.

Bear


----------



## beedee

Bearcarver said:


> If you get either the Gen #1 or the Gen #2.5, any problem you could have is normally taken care of by Masterbuilt.
> 
> Those two are Awesome Smokers, especially for the low prices you can get them for.
> 
> 
> Bear



Thanks Bear. I will be keeping it covered in my garage when not in use. Do you think it is worth it to buy the 3 year warranty from WalMart for an additional $19.99?


----------



## Bearcarver

beedee said:


> Thanks Bear. I will be keeping it covered in my garage when not in use. Do you think it is worth it to buy the 3 year warranty from WalMart for an additional $19.99?


Probably a good idea.

I never would have been able to use it if I had one on any of mine, but for $19.99 for 3 years I think it's a good idea.

Only things wrong with any of mine were Damage from shipping, and they sent me the new parts.

And a 5 year old connector rotted off. That took a couple bucks & about 15 minutes to repair.

Bear


----------



## ssajn

Thanks Bear. I'll give them a call in the morning.

Dave


----------



## pat in pa

Well I received the new element and it still does the same thing.  Everything turns on and lights up except for the element. So I called Masterbuilt and the only thing they would do is send me a new box but it would cost me $200.


----------



## kino1161

I purchased mine in 2013.  Recently, I can cut it on go, away and come back and it will be off.  Sometimes it will cut back on, sometimes not!  It is a crap shoot.  I called Masterbuilt and ordered a new heating element.  I put it on the other day and the smoker fired right up... no problems.  I was just testing it.  Well, yesterday I decide I am going to smoke some chicken real quick.  I fire it up and prepare my chicken.  I come back out in about 30 mins......nothing! It wouldn't even fire back up!  No power..dead!  Ruined my evening.  Today, when I got home from work, I go out, plug it in and she fires up as if nothing has happened!  It's been 20 minutes and it is still on.  What gives!  What can I do to fix this?  I have the 40" with the control panel on top over the door.


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> Well I received the new element and it still does the same thing.  Everything turns on and lights up except for the element. So I called Masterbuilt and the only thing they would do is send me a new box but it would cost me $200.


That Sucks---I was hoping they'd fix you up.

When you ran it in the rain, that probably screwed it up. How long do you have that one?

Bear


kino1161 said:


> I purchased mine in 2013.  Recently, I can cut it on go, away and come back and it will be off.  Sometimes it will cut back on, sometimes not!  It is a crap shoot.  I called Masterbuilt and ordered a new heating element.  I put it on the other day and the smoker fired right up... no problems.  I was just testing it.  Well, yesterday I decide I am going to smoke some chicken real quick.  I fire it up and prepare my chicken.  I come back out in about 30 mins......nothing! It wouldn't even fire back up!  No power..dead!  Ruined my evening.  Today, when I got home from work, I go out, plug it in and she fires up as if nothing has happened!  It's been 20 minutes and it is still on.  What gives!  What can I do to fix this?  I have the 40" with the control panel on top over the door.


Sounds like the Gen #2 they sent me to test:

First I plugged it in, but didn't turn it on.

Then 10 minutes later I noticed it was on.

So I turned it off.

Then when I was ready to turn it on, it wouldn't come on.

Replugged it in, tried to start a couple more times---Nothing.

So I was about to give up, and I slapped the top of the box, right next to the front control unit, and it came on.

Anyway I managed to do all my testing over the next couple days, and found it to be a POS.

I gave my report & they were going to send me a new controller.

I said not to bother, after the results of my testing the Gen #2 is just as good to me not running as it is running.

I went back to my Old Gen #1 for another year or so, until the Gen #2.5 came out.

I have the Gen 2.5 MES 40 for about 2 years now, and it is even better than my Gen #1 was!!!

This thing is Freaking Awesome!!!

Bear


----------



## tallbm

Pat in PA said:


> Well I received the new element and it still does the same thing.  Everything turns on and lights up except for the element. So I called Masterbuilt and the only thing they would do is send me a new box but it would cost me $200.


Sounds like either your element, element wiring connectors, or the controller solid state relay are busted.  You would need to pull some things apart to check.  My money would be that the wiring connectors and/or the element at that point has corroded away.


kino1161 said:


> I purchased mine in 2013.  Recently, I can cut it on go, away and come back and it will be off.  Sometimes it will cut back on, sometimes not!  It is a crap shoot.  I called Masterbuilt and ordered a new heating element.  I put it on the other day and the smoker fired right up... no problems.  I was just testing it.  Well, yesterday I decide I am going to smoke some chicken real quick.  I fire it up and prepare my chicken.  I come back out in about 30 mins......nothing! It wouldn't even fire back up!  No power..dead!  Ruined my evening.  Today, when I got home from work, I go out, plug it in and she fires up as if nothing has happened!  It's been 20 minutes and it is still on.  What gives!  What can I do to fix this?  I have the 40" with the control panel on top over the door.


Because you mention that one day it was "No power dead!" could it be possible that your outlet is being problematic?  Have you tried it on a completely different set of outlets like in the garage or on the other side of the house?

If it is not the outlet it seems that there is a problem with power getting to your controller.  if this is the case then the problem is either in the controller unit on the top of the smoker or with the circuit board at the bottom of the smoker where the power chord plugs into when you take the back off.  A replacement top controller is a simple change if MB will send you one.

If the circuit board at the bottom of the smoker has an issue then I'm afraid you are probably in rewire and PID controller territory.  It is actually not as bad as it sounds and will give you steady temps with an MES.  You would need to start using an AMNPS though for smoke but if you already do then no biggy.  Anyhow the AMNPS is an upgrade over the onboard smoking mechanism so another win.

Hope this info helps :)


----------



## pat in pa

Thanks Bearcarver. They didn't even offer me a discount on a new one. 

TallBM

They sent me two brand new element kits which had new connecting wires which I installed. Could you walk me through the controller solid state?  Where to get one and how to replace it.  Thanks


----------



## Bearcarver

Pat in PA said:


> Thanks Bearcarver. They didn't even offer me a discount on a new one.
> 
> TallBM
> 
> They sent me two brand new element kits which had new connecting wires which I installed. Could you walk me through the controller solid state? Where to get one and how to replace it. Thanks


Wrong guy on fixing them---I can use them, but the only fix I ever did was to replace a connector that had corroded off.

A lot of guys here can help you though, such as:

Sigmo

Dr K

TailBM

And a lot more, but not me.

Bear


----------



## marctrees

MES Digitals - Rated #1 choice by Masochists.

Same old S**T , different day.  

Future prospective buyers - "Search", reading, and study of existing past posts here, SMF,  your friend.  

RA RA SIS BOOM BAH,........  GOOOOO   China !!!!!        Marc


----------



## gr0uch0

Marctrees said:


> MES Digitals - Rated #1 choice by Masochists.
> 
> Same old S**T , different day.
> 
> Future prospective buyers - "Search", reading, and study of existing past posts here, SMF,  your friend.
> 
> RA RA SIS BOOM BAH,........  GOOOOO   China !!!!!        Marc


Hold your cards, I believe we have a winner.  Yep, Marc just won the Internet today!

X2 on this:  doesn't seem that a day passes that there's not someone with issues with these electric smokers.  I'll keep my charcoal, sticks, and propane, thank you very much.


----------



## marctrees

Or an Analog Masterbuilt, even though it can't sing and dance, and does not look like a Nike shoe or a "Transformer" with all the plastic crap.

Marc


----------



## tallbm

Pat in PA said:


> TallBM
> 
> They sent me two brand new element kits which had new connecting wires which I installed. Could you walk me through the controller solid state? Where to get one and how to replace it. Thanks


I don't think you can replace the Solid State Relay (SSR) that comes with the MES but I could be wrong.  

That is a question for MB Customer support.  Here are a couple of images to give you a visual of what I am about to explain.













board.jpg



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__ Mar 2, 2017


















3a6236a1_IMG_5087.jpg



__ tallbm
__ Mar 2, 2017






The two images above are what I could find online of the circuit board of the MES that I am referring too.  Now I could be wrong because I can't see the exact markings and who knows what is actually  going on with these boards but it appears the boards contain a solid state relay (I think blue square on left image, and smaller solid black square at the top of the 2nd image).

With those images now I will give you an explanation of how this stuff usually works.

*SSR* - is basically a switch that allows the electricity to run to the heating element

*Controller* - is the electrical unit that is the brain and knows when to tell the SSR to switch on and allow power to go to the heating element or to switch off and cut power to the heating element

*Power/Electricity* - comes from the wall through the power chord and is split to the controller and to the SSR

In the images above you see the wires coming from the power chord going into the circuit board.  The power/electricity will then be split to the Controller and the SSR. So what you have is the following happening independent of one another:

Power/Electricity -> Controller

Power/Electricity -> SSR

*Behavior You See*

-You are getting power/electricity to your controller so power is going Wall->MES Chord->MES Circuit Board->Controller.

-Your problem is that the heating element is NOT heating which means it is not getting power/electricity.

Your situation seems to be one of the following:

1. Your controller is getting power but failing to signal the SSR to switch on

2. Your SSR is receiving the signal from the Controller but the SSR has malfunctioned and the switch STUCK in the OFF position so no power/electricity will ever make it through to the heating element

3. Wiring between the controller and SSR is failing, I would think you would have some indication like fire or burning (yikes)

Again I say I don't think you can swap the SSR that is on board because I have a feeling it is likely to soldered to the board and not directly wired.  So wires go to board and then power/electricity travels along the board to the SSR which likely has soldered points to receive the power/electricity.  Could I be wrong, of coarse but as you look at the image there isn't much room for a lot more to be happening.

*Your Options*

If you can get MB to send you a new controller and then you will know if the issue is in the controller unit, if it is not it is either in the wire to the board in the images above, the board itself, or the SSR.

 If it is not the controller and you know it is not your elements then you have two options.

1: Buy a Plug and Play PID controller that can handle 1200+watts like the WS-1510ELPM here http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=110 (which is better than MES' controller) AND rewire the MES so Power/Electricity goes directly to the heating element (including the existing safety switch in the wiring).

You then plug the MES power chord into the PID controller and the PID Controller into the wall.

What you will then have is *Power/Electricity from Wall -> PID Controller -> MES Heating Element*.

The PID will have a temp probe to measure the smoker temp and an SSR that will switch the power on/off to the MES heating element as the temp reaches the temp setting and the PID will then maintain the temp. 

You WILL always be within 1 or 2 degrees of your set temp and should never have swings like the MES would create.

I know I threw a lot at you here but honestly it is not that difficult to do rewire for a plug and play PID.

If you are already pulling the back off the MES and changing/wiring in the heating element then you are basically half way there to rewiring for the PID setup I mention.  

If you use an AMNPS and you go forward with the PID setup then you will have bypassed the most common issues that plague the MES and you will have a much better smoker for less than the price of the shipping on a new MES body they want to send you :)

I hope I walked you through this well enough.  Feel free to ask any/all questions you have.  It will take some time to wrap your head around some of this stuff, it did for me when I first started learning about it :)


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## Bearcarver

Marctrees said:


> Or an Analog Masterbuilt, even though it can't sing and dance, and does not look like a Nike shoe or a "Transformer" with all the plastic crap.
> 
> Marc


Shoot !!

I should have bought the Analog, but I didn't know they were made in the USA.

Bear


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## gary s

I'm not a watt burner, always been a stick burner. But !!  I would like to have an electric for doing certain things that is a PITA on my RF.

I'm not saying I'll give up my RF I would like to have the best of both worlds. On charcoal and wood smokers there is nothing to go wrong except the person doing the smoking

And I have seen a lot of that. Doesn't matter what kind of smoker you have "Get To Know Your Smoker"

As for as the Electrics having problems, some do have legitimate issues, but a lot are caused because the owner if just learning and impatient.

I know quite a few Watt burners on here that smokes all the time and never have problems. For the most part I believe that most of the manufacturers want a good product

and are always trying to improve  ie  MES.

Smokers are like cars and opinions , everybody has one and thinks their's is the best or right.

Just my 2 cents worth

Gary


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## marctrees

Bearcarver said:


> Shoot !!
> 
> I should have bought the Analog, but I didn't know they were made in the USA.
> 
> Bear


No, still China.

As far as I know anyway.     Marc


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## marctrees

Some folks have had great VERY Historied  substantial experience w various Digital MES, and that's great.

But, before choosing model to buy, study the old posts in this "Electric Smokers" section.

If you are dead set on Digital, follow Bearcarvers evaluation post(s)

Otherwise......

I have never heard of failures in the Analog model, other than VERY few with the integral female connecting holes of the controller.

I'm sure it happens, but quite apparent very rarely.

The control, seems to be pretty darn reliable.

And the Heating  element itself, no problemo, RARELY if ever fails.

I'm not saying actual specific temp controlling, but reliable as far as general what it is supposed to do function, and close enough for MOST smoking.

Thing is, that's ALL there is,basic as heck controller, and element, no electronic gizmo Rube Goldberg stuff.

Obviously, unplug the control when finished cooking and bring indoors between Smokes.

I always do that, first thing after unplugging it,  while meat rests in smoker for awhile.

Cover control w  foil  if it starts raining when cooking.

Seeing as how it goes on sale as low as $110, (keep watch on Walmart, constantly changing prices, sometime VERY low) I feel how can you beat that?

The colored door ones, Red, Blue, and Pewter have gone as low as $109 w free ship to your Home.

At least at "end of season" it was that way, otherwise still under like $150 shipped.

Add the stuff in my Sig only IF and AS needed for the best all told Bang for Buck, AND reliability.

To cook couple hour foods, nothing else needed but chips.

Well, and a probe Thermometer like Maverick or Smoke, remote read if you like.

I just have a basic Polder so far, have to go outside to read it.

Wanna cook a longg smoke item like Brisket or Shoulder? Then add an AMNPS.

Got all you need then, unless you get into hommemade raw sausages or cold smoking, where temp needs to be very controlled.

This is not a Ford vs Chevy situation, it is facts from history situation.

New Folks here especially - SEARCH old posts for a WEALTH of info.

Flame, Lambaste me if I'm wrong please.

Marc


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## Bearcarver

I agree, Marc---Cheaper, Simpler, but there are other things to consider.

Analog not insulated, no remote, unless one is added.

And as far as problems, I think you would have to know how many Digital units have been sold, compared to how many analogs.

If we were to eliminate counting the problems found on the Generation #2 Units, which everyone here should know about by now, and if we knew how many other Digital units are out there, compared to how many Analog units. Then we could compare the ratio of problems per 100 units of each, but we don't know those numbers.

All we really know is there are a whole lot of Digital units among those who haunt these pages, and very few Analog owners.

So if we could compare 100 units with problems out of 2,000 Digital units, that would be no worse than 3 units with problems out of 60 Analog units.

We also know that there are more things on the Digital units that can go wrong, like a brand new Corvette compared to a '50 Chevy, but does that make the '50 Chevy a better machine?

*About Masterbuilt Electric Smokehouse (Digital)*

*Masterbuilt Smokers (Bear's Thoughts & Findings)*

*MES Generation Number Recognition Pictures & Pics (Digital Units)*

Bear


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## marctrees

Bear - Very agreed on all points.

I did think of the dig vs analog sales of 10:1 or whatever, figured my post was already getting long.

But most of those sales are by people purchasing a false facade, and not pre studying.

So I still remain totally convinced, my decision, again, explained in my Sig, is most logical for not just me, but anyone.

Just too high failure rate otherwise.  

No argument here, Hug.    Marc


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## bham smoke

I have finally thrown my MES away. Amazing to spend as much as we do on these and to have the issues that we get. The resolves are easy fixes and I have twice. Now I'm sick of it and will just use my Akorn cooker for everything. 

Masterbuilt proclaims ease of use, great products, and excellent results. The results of the food when the unit works is the only thing I would say they got right. I cannot ever recommend their product to anyone. Same the time and efforts and use a charcoal griller. 

Some may oppose my opinions but after you continue to jimmyrig your smokers due to poor Chinese quality I'm sure you'll agree. 

Use a charcoal/wood smoker


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## djrosa1

_*T Bone Tim*_

how bout revealing your jerky recipe!!

Thanks DJ


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## zeketers

hey its great to here that  BHAM SMOKE I'm newbee also have learned 1 thing for sure no MES 4 me got vertcal Brinkman had some isuse but the forum help me get threw it I' ll stick with wood &charcoal for now... Zeke


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## rstorrie

Thanks for the forum on this smoker. I have used my Masterbuilt for about 5 years, then it stopped heating last week. Found this forum and read the posts. I was lucky, my smoker has an access panel on the back of the unit to access the heating element. I took the cover off and found what people described. The wires to the element were fried. One had completely disintegrated and fell apart and the other was cooked but still intact. Took the heating element out, used a wire wheel on my drill to clean and shine up the spades for the wires. Cut the wire back a little and removed the cloth wire insulating. Made sure the wire strands were twisted tight and slide it the hole in the middle of the spades with some flux on it. Twisted them around the spade and soldered them in place. I also found that the green ground wire in the unit was loose and had issues with the digital display numbers acting up. Tighten that up too. Put it all back together and fired up the smoker. The digital display is working properly now and the smoker heats faster. Worked flawlessly last night when I smoked babybacks. Thanks guys..........


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## Bearcarver

Rstorrie said:


> Thanks for the forum on this smoker. I have used my Masterbuilt for about 5 years, then it stopped heating last week. Found this forum and read the posts. I was lucky, my smoker has an access panel on the back of the unit to access the heating element. I took the cover off and found what people described. The wires to the element were fried. One had completely disintegrated and fell apart and the other was cooked but still intact. Took the heating element out, used a wire wheel on my drill to clean and shine up the spades for the wires. Cut the wire back a little and removed the cloth wire insulating. Made sure the wire strands were twisted tight and slide it the hole in the middle of the spades with some flux on it. Twisted them around the spade and soldered them in place. I also found that the green ground wire in the unit was loose and had issues with the digital display numbers acting up. Tighten that up too. Put it all back together and fired up the smoker. The digital display is working properly now and the smoker heats faster. Worked flawlessly last night when I smoked babybacks. Thanks guys..........


That's Great Rs !!

That seems to be the problem seen the most often with an MES. It happened to my second one at about 5 years too. I don't mind a 10 minute repair in 5 years.

Glad you're back & Smoking away!!

Bear


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## smoker21

Glad your back and smoking!

I'd be lost without mine.  Tomorrow's smoke will be about 20 #'s of Brined chicken drumsticks. I will be some Pecan wood chunks for the real flavor.

JD


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## rambonyman

Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!


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## Bearcarver

Rambonyman said:


> Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!


I can't help with something like that.

There are a couple guys on here who are great with electrical & electronics. One of them should get here.

You could also call Masterbuilt. They are usually pretty good at helping people & sending parts, even if the warranty is over.

Just call them & tell them what it does or doesn't do.

Bear


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## dr k

Rambonyman said:


> Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!


It seems your right about being a power issue and having to chase down where the circuit is open whether there is a fuse or fried/disconnected wire/component. It would be great to find the problem visually with the smoker unplugged but if it is permanently off then I would do TallBM's four wire cuts and splice to bypass in the bottom access panel all Mes components and plug the power cord into a PID controller. So the power cord black wire when plugged in runs electricity through the black braided wire safety snap disk to the heating element and the other element leg black braided wire back to the white neutral. 
-Kurt


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## larryb

I had a similar problem with my 30 inch.  first you need to determine if the system is repairable.  look at the back and bottom,  if the access panels have screws, you can repair the unit, if they are riveted, it was designed to be replaced.  that being said, you could drill out the rivets and replace with screws.  just remember that there is a gasket under each panel that needs to be re-used.  

 if the unit has power but won't heat it is most likely the heating element.  if you have a repairable unit (one with screws and not rivets) replacing the heating element is a home owner capable repair.  if it just isn't working,  there is an over temp unit on the bottom behind one of the panels.  

call Masterbuilt,  they are usually very helpful.


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## tallbm

Rambonyman said:


> Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!


Hi there and welcome!

Dr. K mentioned made some good points above.

Since you have no power it could be anything from loose wiring, bad circuit board, or a bad controller.

If you inspect it to ensure that all wires are connected well (including the ground wire) then you may have a bad circuit board or controller.  There is no real solution for this other than simply replacing the parts and seeing if it works :(

You could just go the route of a straight rewire and use the MES with a 3rd party PID controller like the Plug and Play PID controllers from Auberins.com.

The idea is that you rewire the MES so that the electricity bypasses the circuitry and will simply cause the heating element to heat up.  

You plug the MES into a PID controller.  You plug the PID controller into the wall and put the smoker temp probe from the PID controller inside the smoker and the PID controller will cut on/off the electricity to the MES according to the set temp you put in the PID controller and the heat reading from the probe.  Very simple.

Here is a post I did that would walk you through a rewire of an MES if you decide you want to go that route.  Also know that the rewire and a PID controller will give you better controller and more accurate temps then what the out of the box MES controller can do.  For Smoke you will still want to rely on the AMNPS and pellets.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/267069/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed

I hope this info helps :)


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## tiros

Since 2 lcd have no display, it sounds very likely the 5 volt supply is down. The thermal cut off would not matter.

In the last TallBM post http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/63863/masterbuilt-not-working-properly/160#post_1676242  you can see the power supply module.The three terminal device with the metal tab is the voltage regulator. If you take a photo of the PCB wiring side of your LCD display board, I can tell you where to hook up voltmeter to see if it is getting 5 volts. Then we can determine if  the power module needs repair. Its a very simple circuit.

On my MES40 controller the red wire on pin #1 is 5 volts, and the white wire on pin #3 is ground.

In this thread I I have a home made replacement control board:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/...ler-full-pid-cellular-control-8-probes-graphs

But I don't think that's your problem.


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