# Splits NOT burning???



## danbono (Sep 2, 2014)

Hi All My 1st try with wood splits/White Birch from HD, worked pretty good. Yesterday I started with a basket 1/2 full with Kingsford Blue & Royal Oak lump. When the basket got down 1/2 full I added a two cherry splits 12" x 3", could NOT keep them lit. They would burn/fire with the firebox lid open , but when closed they would just smother.. I tried going to back to the white birch that I used the last time with the same results..Also was getting lots of white billowing smoke.I'm thinking that for some reason there wasn't enough oxygen to keep the splits on fire.I had the vent door wide open. thought that might help. The splits were heated up on the firebox lid.

Temps were anywhere form 225-300. Ribs came very black looking, using the 3-2-1 way.

What could have gone wrong with the splits not catching on fire? Last time with the white birch I had a nice "clean" fire.

Old thread. http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/156361/white-birch.

Thanks Dan


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## alblancher (Sep 2, 2014)

Sounds to me you are not getting enough air into your firebox or your chimney is closed.  You are getting poor airflow.  Try a smaller charcoal fire when using splits, maybe.


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## kc5tpy (Sep 2, 2014)

Wow Dan.  I feel like am trying to teach an old dog to suck eggs here!  I should just probably shut up and go away!.  Heck you know as much as I do!  I assume you are using the smoker in your avatar.  So here are the stupid questions:  you didn:t have ash build up so that the coals got no air?  I agree there seems to be an air problem.  If you are using that offset that seems to me to be the ONLY reason.  NOW! sometimes I have had to  turn my offset so that air is blowing into the fire box but I am sure you know that.  I feel like I am preaching to the choir here.  That's all I can come up with.  I hope someone else has a solution that will fix all.  We can learn together!  Keep Smokin!

Danny


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## sqwib (Sep 2, 2014)

Try smaller splits 8" long x 1" thick. 
Also if starting with charcoal make sure the ash isn't chocking it as has been suggested by KC5


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## daveomak (Sep 2, 2014)

Dan.... evening  ......  what smoker are you using..... electric..... SFB.....   How about a picture....


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## noboundaries (Sep 2, 2014)

Cherry is a more dense wood than birch, as much as 33% more dense.  It will absorb more heat from the existing fire than birch will to reach ignition or clean carbonization. 

A 12"x3" split is a pretty big heat sink in the form of wood.  You're cooling off your fire too much adding that large a split, especially with a denser wood.  Unless you are adding it to a flaming hot or a glowing, hot ember fire you're not going to get enough heat for it to ignite cleanly.  At night you can actually see hot glowing, coals grow colder when putting a new piece of cold wood of that size on the hot coals as they lose their heat to the cold wood. Reduce the airflow by closing the lid and you just further reduced one of the primary legs of the fire triangle that helps keep the fire hot.  Basically its just going to smolder the boundary layer of the wood, absorb heat from the coals, and make a lot of white smoke.  It could even make the fire go out.

Definitely cut the 12"x3" split into 12"x1" splits, or split it in half and then cut it in half so it is 6"x1.5".  It reduces the heat sink of the wood, allowing the temperature of the cold wood to rise quicker toward ignition, carbonization, and thin blue smoke.

Or grab a weed burner and help the added wood heat up and ignite.


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## danbono (Sep 3, 2014)

Hi All

Thanks for the fast replies.Here are some answers to your questions.

All Ash is NOT the problem. My grate & charcaol basket are 4 " from the bottom, plenty of room for air to get thur.

I'm smoking with a Brinkmanns Smoke N Pit that has been sealed.

What gets me is that when I used the white birch the 1st time it lit with NO problems, and just kept on burning.

Will cut the  splits and put then on a hotter fire next time.

Thanks Again Dan


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## ak1 (Sep 3, 2014)

The wood could be too wet still? It's a thought.


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## fwismoker (Sep 3, 2014)

DaveOmak said:


> Dan.... evening ...... what smoker are you using..... electric*Huh?*..... SFB..... How about a picture....*His avatar*


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## fwismoker (Sep 3, 2014)

Dan lighting a half chimney of hot lump and dumping  on the splits with the door open you can't  go wrong to get everything burning good.


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## sqwib (Sep 3, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi All
> 
> Thanks for the fast replies.Here are some answers to your questions.
> 
> ...


Rounds does not ignite and burn as quickly as splits on all sides, you want to make sure you get through the initial combustion stage fairly quickly, think small hot fire.

Make sure to have a good coal bed

Feed smaller splits, more often as opposed to larger splits less often and you should be fine.













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__ sqwib
__ Aug 14, 2014


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## fwismoker (Sep 3, 2014)

Dan great advice by Squib too.  Something else to keep in mind is what makes a fire burn which is...heat + oxygen + fuel = fire.  When you had some billowing smoke you could have introduced some more heat via a torch such as a weed burner from HF and it most likely would have taken off quickly.


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## daveomak (Sep 3, 2014)

Dan, from the January pictures, it looks like you might think about sealing up the FB door....  Then you could add air only to the fire...  Looks like the fire grate could use about a 3" raise so air went under the fire....  and in the pictures, the fire was close to the door and then close to the Cook Chamber....    did you get different results from those 2 locations...













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## danbono (Sep 3, 2014)

Hi All Dave I don't think they were my firebox pic's that you posted. I sealed the firebox with with high temp silicone.The pit was sealed with self stick gasket from BB Gasket.. I still have some small leaks, but much better before the sealing. The fire grate and basket are 4" from the firebox bottom, plenty of air circulation

I think my problem was the charcoal was NOT hot enough, when I added the splits.The 12x3 white birch burned/flamed SO good the last I use them.

Dave: Seems to me the closest the basket is too pit the higher the temps.. Will have to pay better attention next time when I move the basket around. I was thinking maybe next time NOT using the basket, just a layer of Kingsford Blue then a layer of Royal Oak Lump, get same good hot coals then start adding the splits. The splits will be on the firebox before going into the firebox.Smaller splits 6x3 maybe another way to go.

Thanks Dan


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## sqwib (Sep 3, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi All Dave I don't think they were my firebox pic's that you posted. I sealed the firebox with with high temp silicone.The pit was sealed with self stick gasket from BB Gasket.. I still have some small leaks, but much better before the sealing. The fire grate and basket are 4" from the firebox bottom, plenty of air circulation
> 
> I think my problem was the charcoal was NOT hot enough, when I added the splits.The 12x3 white birch burned/flamed SO good the last I use them.
> 
> ...


Dan 3" is pretty thick I strongly suggest thinner splits, you can use longer but thicker will cause problems.

Your fire is ready when your first few splits have been reduced to red hot coals, at this point you toss on a few splits and after combustion toss on your meat and you are in business.


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## bluewhisper (Sep 3, 2014)

I'm with SQWIB, split the pieces to get sharp edges instead of big fat rounds. Having enough air includes not only letting enough air in, but also getting air next to exposed wood. If you have a whole 3" piece, that's a lot of wood in the center, that can't get air so it won't light. Take that same piece and split it down the center and hot air (and radiant heat) will contact more wood. Maybe allow a mix of sizes so you have a few smaller pieces that will light sooner and help ignite the larger pieces.

And don't be afraid of using shorter pieces. My experience with longer pieces is that they'll light and burn through the centers and leave two stub ends that you'll need to boss back into the fire.


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## daveomak (Sep 3, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi All Dave I don't think they were my firebox pic's that you posted. I sealed the firebox with with high temp silicone.The pit was sealed with self stick gasket from BB Gasket.. I still have some small leaks, but much better before the sealing. The fire grate and basket are 4" from the firebox bottom, plenty of air circulation
> I think my problem was the charcoal was NOT hot enough, when I added the splits.The 12x3 white birch burned/flamed SO good the last I use them.
> Dave: Seems to me the closest the basket is too pit the higher the temps.. Will have to pay better attention next time when I move the basket around. I was thinking maybe next time NOT using the basket, just a layer of Kingsford Blue then a layer of Royal Oak Lump, get same good hot coals then start adding the splits. The splits will be on the firebox before going into the firebox.Smaller splits 6x3 maybe another way to go.
> Thanks Dan




Those pics are from the link in your first post....  "White Birch" and it says "Thread starter DanBono in the thread....


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## pellet (Sep 3, 2014)

Hi Dan, I will ditto what has been said about larger splits. I'm not new to smoking but somewhat new to a wood/charcoal smoking, I started on an LP verticle smoker. I have found that the smaller splits tend to catch quicker obviously. I began trying a year ago to start the fire with lump in the chimney and then put a couple of 3" or so piece of wood.. What I found was that my lump or charcoal was burning out and even though the large splits were catching it didn't catch fast enough with out holding the FB door open to get it really flaming and then it was a quick burn. I suppose I could have modified the FB to get more air but don't need to yet!  I was constantly adding wood and getting the same results with the fire wanting to die out before the wood caught enough to produce the steady heat I wanted. I do have minimal leaks in my CC but I think it would be better without the gasket. I have tried it both ways. On background, I have a BTMLE. I like and it fits my budget but it does have a smaller FB than say an Oklahoma Joe. I just try to feed it the fuel I think it needs. In the end, smaller splits make life easier for me.


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## JckDanls 07 (Sep 3, 2014)

Dave..  that's Cliff's post (#2)  with those pics...  sorry Bub ...


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## daveomak (Sep 3, 2014)

JckDanls 07 said:


> Dave..  that's Cliff's post (#2)  with those pics...  sorry Bub ...



WOW...... How did I screw that up....  I must be getting really old to do that....  Sorry....


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## viking72 (Sep 4, 2014)

Try no basket, no briquettes, one chimney of lump with 3 or 4 splits of hardwood on top. Let it burn!


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## oldschoolbbq (Sep 4, 2014)

Bono , hello . Your problem is not enough air , lose the basket and start a small hot fire , warm woodon top of the FB and add as needed. Open FB ,toss in stick , leave door open a short and let the wood start bruning ,close door and open intake fully and the exhaust stays open ,always ( close only when not in use). Your fire should start giving TS in about 5min.













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 Use the coals ,this was placed 30sec. before ignition , closed the door and ,













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__ Jun 5, 2013





 It started to belch out the smoke , then after 5 min.













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__ oldschoolbbq
__ May 2, 2013





 this was my smoke , whoops , don't see it , that's perfect smoke , you can smell it ,yes !

JMHO , have fun and . . .


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## danbono (Sep 4, 2014)

Thanks All

Will try all your suggestions next time.Yeah I was thinking of NOT using the basket time, and see what happens.

Will post back with the results on next smoke.

Thanks Again Dan


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## thmoker (Sep 4, 2014)

Dan, if you continue to have problems getting the splits to catch, an emergency fix is to open up the lid and side of fire box and use your leaf blower to force a good flame up. Just be sure to aim it away from your food to keep ash from getting on the meat. I used to put some foil in to block the carryover. I have used this method in the past with smaller fire boxes. Don't blow it full blast, just idle or a little more...It only takes a minute or two to get that sucker raging.


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## danbono (Sep 15, 2014)

HI All Another try at stick burning, here are the results..First off I tried to  use the charcoal basket, once again. Filled the basket 3/4 full of Kingsford Blue with a can in the middle/minion method, place the hot coals in the middle , once everything got hot, tried to get the a smaller cherry split/12x1  going, not much luck..

I then  emptied the basket on the firebox grate which sits 4" above FB floor.Tried once again to get the smaller splits going , no such luck, but with firebox lid open there were flames, also at times with the vent door open, flames would appear. Some how I finally got a bigger split/12x3 to flame.Temps by the FB were around 300-350, on the end away from the FB temps were 300. I had to keep opening the cooking pit door to lower temps.Next timer maybe all small splits 6x3

When I emptied the basket onto the FBI grate a lot of coals went under the grate. How do I fix that problem. Going to give stick burning another try. If NOT successful, I will go back to using charcoal and wood just for the flavor.Seems like I have an air flow problem?

Thanks Dan

PS With all that the ribs came out pretty good.


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## buttburner (Sep 15, 2014)

make sure those splits are pre heated

don't know if they were or not I did not ready carefully through every post


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## danbono (Sep 15, 2014)

Hi All the splits were pre heated on firebox lid.

Thanks Dan


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## sqwib (Sep 15, 2014)

DanBono said:


> HI All Another try at stick burning, here are the results..First off I tried to  use the charcoal basket, once again. Filled the basket 3/4 full of Kingsford Blue with a can in the middle/minion method, place the hot coals in the middle , *Ditch the charcoal and build a wood fire using seasoned wood*, once everything got hot, *are you letting the coals properly ash over?*   tried to get the a smaller cherry split/12x1  going, not much luck..
> 
> I then  emptied the basket on the firebox grate which sits 4" above FB floor.Tried once again to get the smaller splits going , no such luck, but with firebox lid open there were flames, also at times with the vent door open, flames would appear. Some how I finally got a bigger split/12x3 to flame.Temps by the FB were around 300-350, *You have a 350° hot spot yet you cant get wood to light? *on the end away from the FB temps were 300. I had to keep opening the cooking pit door to lower temps.Next timer maybe all small splits 6x3 *Ditch the charcoal and build a wood fire using seasoned wood*
> 
> ...


*I don't know what else to suggest, unless the wood you are using is not seasoned? Maybe someone else can help because something is going on.*

*If you build a fire and maintain a decent fire then close the lid and it smolders or chokes then, yes you have a flow problem.*


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## danbono (Sep 15, 2014)

Hi Yup looks like a air flow problem. Hard to believe that with soo many of these Smoke N Pits, using  wood for fuel.

Any of you out there using wood for  the Brinkmanns  Smoke N Pit come across this problem?

Thanks Dan


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## danbono (Sep 19, 2014)

Hi All I would like to hear from other Smoke N Pit users, if they came across the same problem.

Thanks Dan


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## grillmonkey (Sep 19, 2014)

Think of it this way; you fill a chimney with charcoal and light it from the bottom with newspaper or whatever. It starts smoldering slowly  from the bottom up, but it isn't burning fast enough to suit you. To speed things up, you squirt some charcoal lighter fluid on the coals on top, but it doesn't light as you expected it would. So, you take your lighter and put flame to the top of the chimney, expecting it to singe the hair on your arm when it bursts into flames. However, instead of bursting into flames, your lighter simply goes out. Not fiction, fact...that is what will happen. The smoldering coals are burning through the oxygen long before it reaches the top of the chimney. And, even though you are burning from the top down in a basket in your case, it doesn't take a lot of burning/smoldering charcoal to deplete the oxygen so that any wood you throw on top will only smolder just like the charcoal. Three quarters of a basket charcoal is a lot of charcoal. If you want to burn splits, just start with a half chimney of charcoal to get things going, then add splits as needed to maintain the temp you want.


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## danbono (Sep 20, 2014)

Hi GM

Will give it a try next time.Start a  small fire then add splits.

Thanks Dan


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## grillmonkey (Sep 20, 2014)

This is all the fire it takes to keep my cheap, thin-steel, side-firebox smoker chugging along at 275 degrees:













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__ grillmonkey
__ Aug 31, 2014


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## danbono (Sep 23, 2014)

Hi All Going to try to get the splits flaming again tomorrow. Here is the plan.
1. lose the basket.
2. lose the drier vent that went to the grate.
3. start with 1/2 chimney of KB
4. Heat the white birch splits. till they make coals.
5. Add the apple or cherry splits, onto the white birch coals.

Will post back with the results.

Thanks Dan


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## danbono (Sep 24, 2014)

Hi All Well here are the results. Most of time the new splits caught on fire, other times, it was MPIA to get them going.
Here are my findings/thoughts on stick burning.
1. Lest charcoal is the better way to go
2.You MUST stay on the top of things. Once the fire & temps go down. it is HARD to get the splits burning and the temps up. Temps came really fluctuate.
3. I had to use a lot splits 12 x 1/2 to keep things going. One could go broke using just wood.
Speaking of wood I think can get Oak splits 17" x 3/4" x 3/4" for 50 cents a piece. 17" would be a tight fit in my firebox. Each should be good for about 1 hr. So 10 splits=10 hrs burn time=$5.00. Not a bad way to go "IF" I can get them big splits to burn.
4. Half way thur I had to start and add 1/2 chimney KB, to get temps back up.
5. It takes a lot of work to keep a stick burning going
6. NOT sure if it is worth the time and effort or $$.
Thanks Dan
PS Last pic is the white birch, which was the 1st to go, before adding the apple.













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__ Sep 24, 2014


















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## grillmonkey (Sep 24, 2014)

Once you get the hang of it, you can hold the temps pretty good. Normally, I add a split or two every 20 minutes or so. Yes, it takes a lot of attention, but to me that's part of the fun. It also gets you out of chores, "Sorry Honey, I can't leave this thing for a minute."

I live out in the country. There is lots of oak (red and white) and wild pecan on my property so wood isn't a problem for me. You might be able to find some reasonably priced wood in Craigslist. I know down here you can get a pick-up truck load fairly cheap and you'll get more burn time than the same dollar-amount of charcoal.













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__ Jul 19, 2014






This is red oak splits and some that needs to be split.













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__ grillmonkey
__ Jul 27, 2014






The stuff that hasn't been split in this pic is white oak.


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## sqwib (Sep 25, 2014)

From the pic, your charcoal will choke the flame as there is no air movement underneath, as mentioned before try without the charcoal JUST WOOD, that's all I got... Goodluck!


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## sqwib (Sep 25, 2014)

double post


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## danbono (Oct 1, 2014)

SQWIB said:


> From the pic, your charcoal will choke the flame as there is no air movement underneath, as mentioned before try without the charcoal JUST WOOD, that's all I got... Goodluck!


Hi You mean start off with just the splits? That is why I started with the White Birch, to give me a bed of coals, before adding apple splits.

Just picked a few cherry and oak splits. Going to try again soon

Thanks Dan


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## sqwib (Oct 2, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi All Well here are the results. Most of time the new splits caught on fire, other times, it was MPIA to get them going.
> Here are my findings/thoughts on stick burning.
> 1. Lest charcoal is the better way to go
> 2.You MUST stay on the top of things. Once the fire & temps go down. it is HARD to get the splits burning and the temps up. Temps came really fluctuate.
> ...





SQWIB said:


> *From the pic*, your charcoal will choke the flame as there is no air movement underneath, as mentioned before try without the charcoal JUST WOOD, that's all I got... Goodluck!





DanBono said:


> Hi You mean start off with just the splits? *That is why I started with the White Birch*, to give me a bed of coals, before adding apple splits.
> 
> Just picked a few cherry and oak splits. Going to try again soon
> 
> Thanks Dan


You got me so confused at this point, did you start this last burn with wood then add coals later?

My reference is to the pic I see above, this will choke the fire, if you started a fire with splits and still have a problem, then I'm really confused.

As a test, Ditch the birch and try using something like maple, oak or hickory...*As a fuel source.*.., after that I got nothing.

I don't know about other but I have a hell of a time burning white birch when backpacking, its always too spongy and will not burn, not sure the condition of your birch. 

Just an FYI, Remove the bark on your birch before smoking.


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## danbono (Oct 2, 2014)

Hi I started the last time with a small amount of Kingsford Blue, then added the one white birch.

I did pick up some Oak and Cherry double splits, going to give them a try next time. Also going with some lump at the beginning.

Thanks Dan


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## sqwib (Oct 3, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi I started the last time with a small amount of Kingsford Blue, then added the one white birch.
> 
> I did pick up some Oak and Cherry double splits, going to give them a try next time. *Also going with some lump at the beginning.*
> 
> Thanks Dan


Is there some reason that you won't just try WOOD alone?

Maybe some other stickburners will chime in here, because I don't know what else to say.

Goodluck.


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## danbono (Oct 3, 2014)

SQWIB said:


> Is there some reason that you won't just try WOOD alone?
> 
> Maybe some other stickburners will chime in here, because I don't know what else to say.
> 
> Goodluck.


Hi How do I start with just wood. I don't have any thing to get the wood started.?

There are lots of  smokers out there with offsets like mine using wood for fuel.I was hoping they would chime in also.

I got some racks of BB's and a 4# Underblade Chuck Roast to smoke on Sunday.

THanks Dan

PS I do have lots of small branches that I use when I start a fire in the fireplace.


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## daveomak (Oct 3, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi How do I start with just wood. I don't have any thing to get the wood started.?
> There are lots of  smokers out there with offsets like mine using wood for fuel.I was hoping they would chime in also.
> I got some racks of BB's and a 4# Underblade Chuck Roast to smoke on Sunday.
> THanks Dan
> PS I do have lots of small branches that I use when I start a fire in the fireplace.




Using a hatchet, split some splinters off of the splits... about pencil to thumb size..  then use a weed burner to start the fire...


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## danbono (Oct 3, 2014)

Hi That is the problem no weed burner.

Thanks Dan


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## JckDanls 07 (Oct 3, 2014)

well then..  just use kindling and start from scratch...


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## buttburner (Oct 4, 2014)

a weed burner is nice but you certainly dont need one

I have always used a small amount of lit charcoal in a little pile to start

But if thats not working for you then cut up a piece of 2x4 and use that for kindling since it burns easily

another thing that works well is the weber starter cubes.

I think you are using too much charcoal and spreading it out like that is choking off the oxygen

Let the wood burn a good long while and use smaller splits 

its really no different than starting a campfire,

I am sure you have done that before

 the lit charcoal method is just a shortcut to get you some nice hot coals


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## grillmonkey (Oct 4, 2014)

ButtBurner said:


> a weed burner is nice but you certainly dont need one
> 
> I have always used a small amount of lit charcoal in a little pile to start
> 
> ...


Agree 100%
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






!!!


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## 5oclocksomewher (Oct 4, 2014)

Grillmonkey said:


> Think of it this way; you fill a chimney with charcoal and light it from the bottom with newspaper or whatever. It starts smoldering slowly  from the bottom up, but it isn't burning fast enough to suit you. To speed things up, you squirt some charcoal lighter fluid on the coals on top, but it doesn't light as you expected it would. So, you take your lighter and put flame to the top of the chimney, expecting it to singe the hair on your arm when it bursts into flames. However, instead of bursting into flames, your lighter simply goes out. Not fiction, fact...that is what will happen. The smoldering coals are burning through the oxygen long before it reaches the top of the chimney. And, even though you are burning from the top down in a basket in your case, it doesn't take a lot of burning/smoldering charcoal to deplete the oxygen so that any wood you throw on top will only smolder just like the charcoal. Three quarters of a basket charcoal is a lot of charcoal. If you want to burn splits, just start with a half chimney of charcoal to get things going, then add splits as needed to maintain the temp you want.



Really good advice above.  I've tried all kind of briquettes and lump, but my go to stuff is kingsford competition briquettes.  Light a chimney of that and make sure it's good and hot, until it's ashing on top.  Dump that in you're basket and add splits as needed.  If you have a small fan you can place that 2-3 ft from fire box vent or if you're firebox has a side door you can open that if you need extra air.


Less amnt of charcoal burning hot and splits burning.












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__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Oct 3, 2014






More charcoal and not burning hot and clean leads to splits smoldering.












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__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Oct 3, 2014







When I use kingsford competition briquettes I get the best of both worlds.  I can load my basket up for a longer smoke and get clean burning splits.













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__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Sep 20, 2014


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## fairview (Oct 4, 2014)

DanBono said:


> DSC02606.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Okay as a rookie I'm going to add my 2 cents.  In my inexperienced opinion if those splits are what you are using during the smoke with the amount of charcoal shown in the second pic,  I think your fire is too big.  Too much charcoal and too much wood.  The volume of one or the other needs to be reduced.  Think small and extremely hot fire.  When wood is added to the fire it should be so hot that it literally bursts in flames.  It should be burning before getting your hand out of the firebox.  When wood or charcoal smoulders the smoke carries incomplete combustibles that coat the meat, turns it black and gives it a heavy smokey creosote taste.  If charcoal is going to be your predominant heat source the splits should be no bigger, really just a tad smaller than a coke can both in length or diameter.  Anything larger will just smoulder before it ignites.  A very small amount of wood will give you a good smoke flavor.  The smoke coming out of the smoker should be hard to see. 

Right or wrong, this is what works for me.  I use charcoal as a predominate heat source. I also happen to have a band saw which makes cutting the splits really easy. 

I start off with a chimney full of lump charcoal plus spillage when I pour the lump in it.  Once this is going I pour it out up against the CC wall in the FB.  I then add briquets, 2/3 of what you have shown in pick 2 on top of this with a large split I cut in half.  These splits are big fireplace splits;  not what you buy at Kroger or Academy.  At this time the FB door, lid and CC lid are open.  Once the wood is fully engulfed and I have a clean fire blazing away with flames higher than the top of the CC, I shut the lids to both the FB and CC.  The FB door is still open.  Once the temp reaches 350+, I shut the FB door and open the vent so I have no more than about a 3/8 crack at its widest on both top and bottom.  Now I wait for the fire to settle down -takes about 10 minutes to stop belching smoke and get down to that nearly transparent smoke.  Before I put the meat on I will add about 2 handfuls of briquets and 2 small coke can sized pieces of wood.  I will leave the FB lid open, put the meat in the CC and then shut the FB lid. By this time those wood pieces are blazing.  I will add a dozen briquets at the far end of the FB as far away from the fire as possible.   Every 45minutes +/- I will push those briquets to the rest of the fire,  add 2 more of those small split pieces, rake out ashes,  plus another 12 or so briquets in the FB as far away from the fire as possible.   I do it in that order so by the time I have the new briquets in place the wood in blazing and no heavy smoke is ever produced when I shut the FB door and lid. 

The only other thing I would recommend is replacing the grate you have with a large piece of heavy gauge 3/8" expanded metal.  It looks like the gap in your grate allows the briquets to fall through to the bottom prematurely blocking good air flow.  The expanded metal smaller openings allow just ash to fall through.  For a five our rib smoke I use about 8lbs of charcoal about 1 split cut into small pieces.  For a 15 hour brisket, 12-15 pounds of charcoal and 2 splits cut into small pieces.

I also use oak for preheating and smoking.  Makes great long lasting coals and has a mild taste that my family likes.  Small and hot is the way to go.  The pics are what comes off my smoker using this method.  Notice very little smoke in the pics.













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__ Oct 4, 2014


















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good luck


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## jburn244 (Oct 6, 2014)

Cut your splits in half as probably already mentioned, and just add the 2 small pieces at at time. They catch quicker and burn better. I don't think you need less charcoal as long as you are running at half or wide open. Just don't choke it off and you'll be fine.

Although now that I'm looking at the picture of your firebox that inlet damper seems waaayy too small. I don't see how you'd get enough air in there even with it wide open to keep your wood from smoldering. You may just need to stick to charcoal and the bagged chunks.


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## danbono (Oct 6, 2014)

Hi All Another try at stick burning and pretty much the same results..This time I tried small splits 6x3 and medium & larger splits, with the same results.The splits would flame as long as the FB door was open or cracked a Little, once closed the splits went into smoldering mode.

Also the temps were fluctuating all over the place, when flaming the temps would go sky high, when the flame when out the temps went way down. I thought I had a good bed of coals, but I guess not.

At times I had to put the paper from the Lump bag, under the FB grate in order to get things going again. I definitely have some kind of air flow problem. My FB grate sits 4" from the FB floor, I'm wondering IF that could be the problem.

At this point in time I'm ready to go back to charcoal/lump and use the 6x3 splits just for flavor.

Thanks for all your help

Dan


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## buttburner (Oct 6, 2014)

I have an idea Dan

Do you still have those tuning plates and firebricks in the cook chamber?

I see foil in the under the cook grate in another in your thread on the brethren

If you still have that stuff, get rid of all of it

I had a similar issue on my OK Joe, I took out some of the tuning plates and it was much better

I bet all that extra stuff is choking off your air flow!!


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## maple sticks (Oct 6, 2014)

Hi Dan, As others have said your splits are to large. One inch square is as large as you should be using. Your much better off using four one inch square splits than one 1X4 split. The larger the wood the harder to control the temp and it takes more heat and air to get it to burn. Use several smaller cut sticks at one time.


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## tropics (Oct 6, 2014)

Hey Dan This pic looks like the fire box is sitting on a solid piece of metal













image.jpg



__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Oct 3, 2014






If it is that would block the air flow.

Richie


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## danbono (Oct 6, 2014)

DSC02495.JPG



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__ Jun 22, 2014






Baffle going into the CC













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__ Jun 22, 2014






 Lately I've been using this. Charcaol grate cover in alum foil, with small holes by the FB and bigger ones to the far end.













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__ danbono
__ May 24, 2014


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## buttburner (Oct 6, 2014)

If effects it because its choking off the airflow 

remove all that stuff

I bet you a brisket you will have a flame  then

I had the exact same problem

and buy an axe to cut up the splits. You can get one for $10-15


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## danbono (Oct 6, 2014)

tropics said:


> Hey Dan This pic looks like the fire box is sitting on a solid piece of metal
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## maple sticks (Oct 6, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Might try one last time smaller splits, but here is the problem, I DON'T have any thing to make the larger splits smaller.
> 
> Last time I was able to get oak splits 17" X 2/3" for .50 cent apiece . My smaller splits 6x3 came off the net which can get expensive.
> 
> Thanks Dan


Hi Dan, Well if making you splits smaller is the problem I use a hatchet I purchased at a yard sale three bucks. I put the hatchet where I want it split and smack it with a hammer. Saves the fingers. Start at the outside edge cutting slices off and work to the center. If you don't have a hatchet use any sharp chunk of steel. I use a splitting wedge and three pound hammer on larger sizes. I don't split except for smoking. Ya wear safety glasses.


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## danbono (Oct 16, 2014)

Maple Sticks said:


> Hi Dan, Well if making you splits smaller is the problem I use a hatchet I purchased at a yard sale three bucks. I put the hatchet where I want it split and smack it with a hammer. Saves the fingers. Start at the outside edge cutting slices off and work to the center. If you don't have a hatchet use any sharp chunk of steel. I use a splitting wedge and three pound hammer on larger sizes. I don't split except for smoking. Ya wear safety glasses.


Hi I brought a 1 1/4 lb hatchet at Harbor Freight for $7..Didn't make a dent in the oak or cherry. Started at the smallest end got some cherry to split but only once.When it came to the thicker part, I couldn't make any head way with the hatchet..I was using a hammer to hit the hatchet with.

Waiting on getting some smaller splits 8 x 1-2" before I try again.Looking for some one in North NJ to get smaller splits from.Would get a chain but at 72 I DON'T feel comfortable using it.

Thanks Dan


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## maple sticks (Oct 16, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi I brought a 1 1/4 lb hatchet at Harbor Freight for $7..Didn't make a dent in the oak or cherry. Started at the smallest end got some cherry to split but only once.When it came to the thicker part, I couldn't make any head way with the hatchet..I was using a hammer to hit the hatchet with.
> 
> Waiting on getting some smaller splits 8 x 1-2" before I try again.Looking for some one in North NJ to get smaller splits from.Would get a chain but at 72 I DON'T feel comfortable using it.
> 
> Thanks Dan


Sorry your still having problems Dan. You are trying to split length ways right.


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## buttburner (Oct 16, 2014)

you should have bought an axe instead

I have a 8 lb splitting maul, it makes it a piece of cake to cut up the wood

a hatchet is not really the right tool for that

the right tool for the right job


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## danbono (Oct 16, 2014)

Maple Sticks said:


> Sorry your still having problems Dan. You are trying to split length ways right.


Yup lenght ways..Got the cherry to split some but the oak was hard as a rock.

Thanks Dan


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## buttburner (Oct 16, 2014)

you could also try using a sledge hammer and hitting the axe with it after you get the hatchet started

but be careful with this


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## danbono (Oct 16, 2014)

Hi Then I would have to buy a sledge hammer, unless my neighbor has the one?

Thanks Dan

PS The oak was like a rock.


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## buttburner (Oct 16, 2014)

yeah

maybe you could have the neighbor give you a hand and repay him in BBQ?

I have an electric splitter since I have a wood stove at my cabin and use it a lot

but you are looking at a few hundred for one of those


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## sqwib (Oct 20, 2014)

Look at this pic.These are 9-10" in length and can easily be split with one whack of an Hatchet or Bowie Knife, if they are longer, half them with a Chop Saw, don't have one...borrow one.

An Axe would be better, don't have one, get one.













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Do you have a bowie type knife, if not Get One, you can try batonning, I teach this skill to the scouts when processing wet wood for a fire, I was teaching my Son Stephen to baton a few weeks ago.

When batonning you just keep halfing every half, look at the pic.

This gives you Tinder, Kindling, and fuel wood.













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This fire was started with a cottonball with vaseline and a spark from a firesteel













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__ sqwib
__ Oct 20, 2014






Its hard to give advice when I don't know someones skill level, I can immediately have an idea of someones skill level just by the way they hold a knife or stand with an Axe in hand.

If you plan on burning sticks, you need to learn fire management and before that you need to learn how to process wood, these skills are a must for a successful fire. These are basic skills that anyone can learn.

I do not mean to offend but rather offering a suggestion, If you continue to have problems, maybe stickburning isn't for you and you should look into other methods.

If you want to continue, I will do everything I can to help just as other dedicated SMF memebers will.

Handy Tips,

Next time you are out somewhere in the woods or a park with a lot of trees, pick up all those little branches for kindling or take a road trip after a heavy windstorm and pick up all those dead branches, I do!

Have any friends, Family, Neighbors with trees, ask them to save their trimmings and call you to pick them up.

See a guy cutting a tree down or trimming, ask him if you can take some, they are usually happy to see some one haul their trash.

Call local farms ask if you can have their end of year trimmings, from Peach and cherry trees, just make sure they don't spray.

Ask trees service workers to snag a few branches.

You are only limited to your own imagination.


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## buttburner (Oct 20, 2014)

having the dog gnaw them down is a good idea too lol


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## sqwib (Oct 20, 2014)

DanBono said:


> Hi Then I would have to buy a sledge hammer, unless my neighbor has the one?
> 
> Thanks Dan
> 
> PS The oak was like a rock.


  

No sledge please, just use a CHOPPING axe, no need for wedges or even a SPLITTING axe or anything like that

This is a Fiskars Chopping axe and has no problem splitting wood













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__ sqwib
__ Oct 20, 2014






This is another skill that needs to be learned, you may have to flip a log to split and you may be into a knot where splitting may not be worth the energy.

For larger difficult logs I will go off center a good bit to get it split.

If I'm splitting wood for a few hours I want to use a chopping axe instead of a heavy splitting axe, it works better for me to apply the force on the downswing to a chopper then expend it all on lifting and swinging the splitter (splitters are heavy.)

One caveat about he chopper is sometimes it will wedge itself pretty good, a splitter usually don't lodge itself in the wood as much.

But that's me, you may be better off with a light Splitting Axe, like the Fiskars Splitting Axe, I have never needed a splitter, with that said... a splitting Axe may have been a better choice for the logs above.

This trip we split 10" -14" logs with that little Fiskars, twas a MANLY day lol...

Another note, just make sure to chop on another log or extremely hard ground, never on concrete or rocks.


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## sqwib (Oct 20, 2014)

ButtBurner said:


> having the dog gnaw them down is a good idea too lol


True she loves her wood, that pic is for size reference shes not a big shepherd, maybe 80 pounds.


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## danbono (Oct 21, 2014)

HI All This what I purchased at Harbor Freight. Dose a good job on the thin side of the splits, that's about it.

Thanks Dan


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## buttburner (Oct 21, 2014)

DanBono said:


> HI All This what I purchased at Harbor Freight. Dose a good job on the thin side of the splits, that's about it.
> 
> Thanks Dan


Not seeing anything Dan-O


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## danbono (Oct 22, 2014)

Opps...here it is..http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-quarter-lb-axe-with-fiberglass-handle-96231.html

Thanks Dan


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## buttburner (Oct 22, 2014)

that's for light work

you need something like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-lb-splitting-maul-with-fiberglass-handle-93758.html

its what I use when not using my electric


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## danbono (Oct 22, 2014)

Thanks BB


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## bluewhisper (Oct 22, 2014)

Aww, come on, where's the fun of whacking the back of a maul with a small sledgehammer? :) Plink Plink CRACK.

Has anyone ever seen anybody split wood like this? This was a Bulgarian guy at a hot pepper festival.













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__ bluewhisper
__ Oct 22, 2014


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## sqwib (Oct 22, 2014)

He don't need an 8 pound Maul a lightweight chopper is fine, using a heavy Maul on small splits could be a bit dangerous for inexperienced folks.

Dan the rest is up to you, you got many things to choose from but just remember the tool alone wont do the job, you need to work on your skills a bit, the hatchet you got would work for me with a little effort however that would not be my first choice, the Maul that ButtBurner linked to, would tire me out after a half an hour.

Choice is yours and good luck


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## buttburner (Oct 22, 2014)

SQWIB said:


> He don't need an 8 pound Maul a lightweight chopper is fine, using a heavy Maul on small splits could be a bit dangerous for inexperienced folks.
> 
> Dan the rest is up to you, you got many things to choose from but just remember the tool alone wont do the job, you need to work on your skills a bit, the hatchet you got would work for me with a little effort however that would not be my first choice, the Maul that ButtBurner linked to, would tire me out after a half an hour.
> 
> Choice is yours and good luck


that's why I take a break after 10- 15 minutes. 10 minutes swinging that maul will give you a lot of wood, plenty for a few cooks

it doesn't all have to be done at once

common sense and safety practices go a long way. tiring yourself out trying is not safe.

to each his own, I don't think the small hatchet he bought it the right tool for the job. All depends on the size of the wood he is working with


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## sqwib (Oct 22, 2014)

BlueWhisper said:


> Aww, come on, where's the fun of whacking the back of a maul with a small sledgehammer? :) Plink Plink CRACK.
> 
> Has anyone ever seen anybody split wood like this? This was a Bulgarian guy at a hot pepper festival.
> 
> ...


Confucious say

I hear, I forget

I see, I remember

I do, I learn

Sad thing is, that the boy in the picture will most likely learn by what he's seeing


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## bluewhisper (Oct 22, 2014)

My maul is only 5 pounds. Whether I need it depends on the wood. Since I'm not working with any big pieces for the offset, my camping hatchet is fine for most work, maybe with some tapping from a 2-pound sledge.

But sometimes, it's fun to bust the big stuff.


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## sqwib (Oct 22, 2014)

ButtBurner said:


> that's why I take a break after 10- 15 minutes.
> 
> it doesn't all have to be done at once  *I can get better results with a chopper and minimal effort,  **A maul would be a good choice for an experienced individual splitting a lot of large logs 8" - 14" or so*.
> 
> ...


You have to remember that Dan is talking about splitting three inch splits, not logs, I think using an 8lb. Splitting Maul would be unsafe.

So I have to disagree with your suggestion of the Splitting Maul... sorry.

I'm just looking out for the safety of a fellow member.


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## buttburner (Oct 22, 2014)

well then we can agree not to agree

I cut small splits all the time with my maul

You don't whack at it with all the force you can muster, you have to use common sense, like using any tool

I have done it for years, I am sure he can handle it if he uses common sense.


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## bluewhisper (Oct 22, 2014)

> You don't whack at it with all the force you can muster


I learned that with a golf club - accuracy is much more important than sheer force.


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## buttburner (Oct 22, 2014)

What I mean is I would rather use the weight of the maul on a smallish split do the work rather than trying to over swing a small hatchet and miss or worse.

All you need to do is lift the maul a small bit and let if fall on the split, I make lots of kindling this way

as long as you are careful it will be fine


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## sqwib (Oct 22, 2014)

OK, so you suggest he goes out and buys an 8 pound splitting maul to split 3" splits, and you think someone trying to make 2" or even 1" splits that this is a correct and safe choice.

I just want to make sure I'm clear on that.

I see boy scouts all the time working on their totin' chip swinging the maul type axes and loosing control on a bad swing or an offset strike, with a lighter axe it is much easier to control and regain control in such a case.

I am totally aware of what can be used for what, however, the OP is purchasing something new, its not like he has it lying around to use, so why would you suggest such an overkill tool?

I am not debating that an 8 pound Maul won't work I just don't see the Splitting Maul as the proper tool specific to his needs, especially if he has to purchase one.

He would be much better with a Lightweight chopper.

However I do agree to each his own.


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## buttburner (Oct 22, 2014)

I do have a totin chip card!!

brings back great memories!!

I also still have my red handle Plumb Boy Scout Axe!!!

I just used the 8 lb maul as an example. A smaller one is fine. He needs to make his own choice on what he can handle or not.

I do not expct him to go into the store, grab this 8 lb maul that he can barely handle and say to himself "Buttbuner said I need this one!!" So I gotta buy it!!!


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## sqwib (Oct 22, 2014)

ButtBurner said:


> I do have a totin chip card!!
> 
> *Half our scouts should redo the totin' chip, after  seeing them swinging an axe on concrete, last year took me half an hour to grind out a half penny size nick next trip out they did it a**gain.*
> 
> ...


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## buttburner (Oct 29, 2014)

did we lose ya Dan?

no more fingers left to type with?


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## danbono (Nov 1, 2014)

Hin All

Fingers still in tack. Just got back from 10 day cruise to the Carribean. .  Haven't started a fire just yet, waiting on picking up some smaller splits.Will post back with the results.

Thanks Dan


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## pinkmeat (Nov 1, 2014)

In my experience, it's a lot of trouble to cook with small splits. I was hell bent on it and built a SFB style smoker years ago out of a 55gal drum and a chargriller SFB. The best way I found to really cook with wood splits, in a small setup similar to yours, was to pre-burn the wood into coals, then shovel them in the firebox. After you had a nice, clean burning, HOT bed of coals (hard to regulate in a small setup), then I could add some smaller spilts, buts that about it. VERY VERY labor intensive. You won't get away from your cooker for more than 30" I imagine. I know that's not what you're looking for, but you will fight and fight to get that doing what you see bigger cookers doing.

I ended up going to a Lang and never looked back. Although, it is funny. I cook two butts at a time on that thing which seems silly. Good luck.


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## buttburner (Nov 3, 2014)

I know many many people that cook successfully with splits on the pit Dan has.

Don't give up Dan. Once you see the light it will become easy


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## sqwib (Nov 3, 2014)

Yes I agree with BB and to further what Buttburner has said, it's really not a big deal and is fairly easy, I have already had mine going for over an hour unattended (maverick) while I took a long hot jacuzzi bath.
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






 .

My point is that once you get fire management under your belt and are comfortable with your pit, you will be GOLD!

But as PinkMeat points out, this type of cooking requires a baby sitter, but that's the beauty of it, anyone can toss something in a crock pot and head out to see a movie, but my pleasure comes from having a day that is *MY day* and the wife knows this and NOBODY bothers me when I'm on the pit,... hell, even if I could venture away from the pit for a few hours, do you think I would want to? also do you think I would tell my wife that, NOT A CHANCE ,  I don't care to leave my sanctuary!


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## sqwib (Nov 3, 2014)

I also wanted to say, don't sweat the temp fluctuatons so much, many folks will swear by maintaining a constant temperature throughout the cook for best product, I say, "HOGWASH" (always wanted to say that)  just as long as you don't drop below your minimal temperature any length of time you should be good, read this article I wrote.

The Sacraficial Picnic

*Disclaimer: this article applies to a picnic cook and is of my opinion only!*

Of course quality and volume of Smoke is an important element in a satisfactory cook!


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## danbono (Nov 4, 2014)

SQWIB said:


> I also wanted to say, don't sweat the temp fluctuatons so much, many folks will swear by maintaining a constant temperature throughout the cook for best product, I say, "HOGWASH" (always wanted to say that)  just as long as you don't drop below your minimal temperature any length of time you should be good, read this article I wrote.
> 
> The Sacraficial Picnic
> 
> ...


Hi I don,t sweat the temp fluctuations any more.I'm getting to like the different heat zones.

Dan


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## danbono (May 6, 2015)

Hi All 
Well winter is finally gone, I can get back to and fire up my smoker.
Stick burning with COS is defiantly a science did manage to get the smaller splits
6-8" long x 1-3" thick to flame, only problem is they don't last long. maybe 20-30 minutes.
With the larger splits,15-17" long x 3-5" thick.,last much longer, close to 1 hr, keeping them flaming is a work of art.
So now I'm looking for splits that are,10-12 long x 1-4 thick.. Think that would be the best of both worlds.
With the 2nd pic I panicked and lit up some more Kingsford.
Thanks All for your help
DanB
PS I took the fire bricks out and the stack that cam e down to the grates..Left the turning plates.













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__ May 6, 2015


















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__ danbono
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## danbono (May 26, 2015)

Hi All  Finally got the splits to flame.I lined the FB with fire bricks, then fill with Kingfords Blue, left a spot at the end for hot coals. Worked pretty good,used mainly smaller splits 6 x 4 of cherry and pecan,at the end I threw in a very large cherry split and it also flamed. Pork ribs came out real good, not too crazy about the beef ribs.

Here is the link with food pics  ..http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/177001/beef-ribs-restaurant-depot

Thanks Dan

         Fire box lined with Fire bricks













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__ May 26, 2015






 small split













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__ May 26, 2015






large split













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__ danbono
__ May 26, 2015


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## danbono (Jun 7, 2015)

Hi All Many thanks for ALL the great info. on getting wood splits to flame.. I'm doing another wood burning smoke as we speak.

I think I finally got the hang of this stick burning thing.No trouble getting the splits to flame for a nice clean smoke.

I use the same procedure as I did in my last post.Most important info. I got, was to preheat the splits on top of the fire box, works wonders for getting the  splits to flame, also leaving the FB door open for a good draft.

Now all I need is find a wood supplier.
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Thanks Again Dan

PS I think a big help to getting the splits to flame, was lining the FireBox with the fire bricks.Keeps the FB real HOT!!!













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__ danbono
__ Jun 7, 2015


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## danbono (Aug 10, 2015)

Pinkmeat said:


> In my experience, it's a lot of trouble to cook with small splits. I was hell bent on it and built a SFB style smoker years ago out of a 55gal drum and a chargriller SFB. The best way I found to really cook with wood splits, in a small setup similar to yours, was to pre-burn the wood into coals, then shovel them in the firebox. After you had a nice, clean burning, HOT bed of coals (hard to regulate in a small setup), then I could add some smaller spilts, buts that about it. VERY VERY labor intensive. You won't get away from your cooker for more than 30" I imagine. I know that's not what you're looking for, but you will fight and fight to get that doing what you see bigger cookers doing.
> 
> I ended up going to a Lang and never looked back. Although, it is funny. I cook two butts at a time on that thing which seems silly. Good luck.


Hi All  Finally got a chance to fire up the COS..Had NO trouble keeping the splits 12-14" x 2-3" on fire. Started with a small bed of KKB and some RO Lump. Heated the splits on top of the fire box,before

putting them in firebox, came to flames right away, and stayed that whey 

Only problem was, I had to another split every 45 min. guess that is way it goes with a stick burner. Still trying to find a supplier for the smaller splits that I use.

Thanks for ALL your help.

Dan


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## danbono (Jan 18, 2016)

Hi All Just and update.. I have a Shirley smoker on order, ETA 2nd week in March.

Dan


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## danbono (Mar 23, 2016)

Hi All Just another update.. Purchased this from Harbor Freight, works really good. Just got some aches & pains in my 72yo body for the next day.:)

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-hydraulic-log-splitter-67090.html

Thanks Dan

 My Shirley Smoker 24 x36 Patio













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__ Mar 23, 2016
__ 1


















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__ Mar 23, 2016


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## seenred (Mar 23, 2016)

Hi Dan,

That new pit is a real beauty!  Those Shirleys are sure nice rigs...you must be tickled pink!

Congrats!

Red


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## gary s (Mar 23, 2016)

Nice Smoker, Nice Ribs

Gary


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## danbono (May 3, 2016)

Hi I lov the cabinet doors on my Shirley.
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Best $$ I've spent since I started smoking.

Dan

PS NO trouble at all geting the splits to burn.


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