# Masterbuilt Model 20075315



## JamskiBBQ (Jan 7, 2022)

I have this Masterbuilt chip smoker PN 20075315 and have loved it until last fall when it seemed a probe was not reporting right. Got replacement probe and now it seems the controller is bad because the internal temperature is not registering correctly. 
I can't get replacement because Masterbuilt and there main referral, (appliance factory parts )does not have one either and no guidance on getting a part. So my question is 2 part. 
1. does anyone have a compatible replacement part for this smoker?
2. Does anyone have process and procedure with info on how to modify this smoker to get it up and running again?
Any help would be appreciated I am 2 month overdue for smoking Salmon.

Regards and thanks

James


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## TNJAKE (Jan 7, 2022)

tallbm
 is a guru at this. He will be along shortly. If not send him a pm


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## TNJAKE (Jan 7, 2022)

Oh and drop by the new member thread and introduce yourself!


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## DougE (Jan 7, 2022)

TNJAKE said:


> tallbm
> is a guru at this. He will be along shortly. If not send him a pm


This. He's the man you want to talk to for Masterbuilt issues.


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## JamskiBBQ (Jan 7, 2022)

Thanks


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## tallbm (Jan 7, 2022)

JamskiBBQ said:


> I have this Masterbuilt chip smoker PN 20075315 and have loved it until last fall when it seemed a probe was not reporting right. Got replacement probe and now it seems the controller is bad because the internal temperature is not registering correctly.
> I can't get replacement because Masterbuilt and there main referral, (appliance factory parts )does not have one either and no guidance on getting a part. So my question is 2 part.
> 1. does anyone have a compatible replacement part for this smoker?
> 2. Does anyone have process and procedure with info on how to modify this smoker to get it up and running again?
> ...


Hi there and welcome James!

It sounds like you have 1 really good option that may be a little scary but isn't. Or you buy a new smoker.

The 1 really good option is to do a simple rewire and to use what is called a PID Controller to run your smoker.
The rewire is simply cutting the ends off 4 wires and splicing together with a wire nut to make 2 whole wires.
At this point the plug will feed power directly to the heating element.
This is where the PID controller comes in to cut power on/off to the MES so that it hits and holds the temp you want.

In this approach the MES plugs into the PID Controller and the PID Controller plugs into the wall.  You drop the PID controller temp sensor into the MES and done!
Punch in the temp you want to hit and hold and the PID controller will feed power on/off to hit and hold that temp :)

This makes your smoker at least 20x better then anything MES builds brand new.  Seriously!!!
Now the PID Controller will cost you like $150 from Auber but seriously, the rewire with the PID Controller turns your smoker from a golf cart into a Ferrari!
No more temp swings.  No more being unable hitting your set temp.  No more crazy inaccurate smoker temps.  Only hitting your set temp and holding within 1-2 degrees!

Do sausage, do bacon, do jerky, all without fear of temps swinging and going wild and ruining the day.  Do a 275F higher temp smoke and actually hit 275F!

Here is the PID Controller I"m talking about (PID stand for Proportional-Integral-Deriviative, these are the control setting parameters but pay no mind to any of that).





						Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
					

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...



					www.auberins.com
				




Many of us run PID Controllers with our rewired MES units and wow we all wonder why we waited so long haha.
Another good side effect is that when you do this rewire you can switch out the crappy electrical spade wire connectors that Masterbuilt uses for high temp ones that wont corrode away on you like the MB ones do.

At this point you can keep your smoker running through anything short of getting hit by a car :D

Please ask all the questions you can about this and we can get you squared away.  I have a very detailed post on how to do the rewire if you want to.  Seriously it takes longer to flip the MES over, unscrew the panels and such than it does to do the actual rewire.


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## JamskiBBQ (Jan 9, 2022)

tallbm,

Thanks for the info. Please send the rewire instructions. I am competent in wiring being in the telecom industry for 35 years this seems pretty easy if I have this right. So if I am right you tie in the PID controller between the power cord and the element for heating control and the PID comes with a temp probe and that drop in the top of the smoker to control the temperature.  Assuming I am right I assume you can't run the wires from the existing cabinet sensor to the PID controller, you need to use the one that came with the PID controller.  With that up and running drop in additional Thermometer's for meat probes as needed and I should be up and running? Thanks again.

Regards,

James Vollmer




tallbm said:


> Hi there and welcome James!
> 
> It sounds like you have 1 really good option that may be a little scary but isn't. Or you buy a new smoker.
> 
> ...


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## tallbm (Jan 9, 2022)

JamskiBBQ said:


> tallbm,
> 
> Thanks for the info. Please send the rewire instructions. I am competent in wiring being in the telecom industry for 35 years this seems pretty easy if I have this right. So if I am right you tie in the PID controller between the power cord and the element for heating control and the PID comes with a temp probe and that drop in the top of the smoker to control the temperature.  Assuming I am right I assume you can't run the wires from the existing cabinet sensor to the PID controller, you need to use the one that came with the PID controller.  With that up and running drop in additional Thermometer's for meat probes as needed and I should be up and running? Thanks again.
> 
> ...



Hi James, you are almost correct.

The way it works is that you rewire the MES so that the MES cord will feed power directly to the heating element.

Then you buy a PID controller like the auber one:





						Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
					

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...



					www.auberins.com
				




Finally, you plug the PID into the wall, the MES cord into the PID, and drop the PID probe into the MES and like clip it to the bottom of the lowest rack.
Now when you turn on the PID and punch in the set temp it will feed power from the wall to the MES cord until the MES heats up and hits the set temp. 
So power goes  Wall->PID->MES.

No wiring the PID into the MES itself you just rewire the MES so the cord will plug into the PID and the PID plugs into the wall :)


For the simple MES rewire here is a super detailed post on it. In short u cut the ends off 4 wires and wirenut together to make 2 whole wires :)






						MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!
					

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES.  I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance.  Well here goes.  Disclaimer:  When messing with electrical equipment...




					www.smokingmeatforums.com
				




Check this all out and let me know if it make sense :)


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## JamskiBBQ (Jan 10, 2022)

OK order the PID come in 2 days. I took apart the smoker to preview the wiring. As you can see in the attached photo of my control board my hot wire and neutral wire from the plug are swapped from your photo/example. Since this is AC and Not DC does it matter?? Can I wire per instructions or wire  1 to 4 and 2 to 3 swapping the hot and Neutral wire? Or do I need to pull the back plane and find the limiting switch? The access panel for the heating element only has the 2 red wires ( Black wires in your example) and the ground that goes to the plug. Let me know what you think and thanks again.








JamskiBBQ said:


> tallbm,
> 
> Thanks for the info. Please send the rewire instructions. I am competent in wiring being in the telecom industry for 35 years this seems pretty easy if I have this right. So if I am right you tie in the PID controller between the power cord and the element for heating control and the PID comes with a temp probe and that drop in the top of the smoker to control the temperature.  Assuming I am right I assume you can't run the wires from the existing cabinet sensor to the PID controller, you need to use the one that came with the PID controller.  With that up and running drop in additional Thermometer's for meat probes as needed and I should be up and running? Thanks again.
> 
> ...


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## tallbm (Jan 10, 2022)

JamskiBBQ said:


> OK order the PID come in 2 days. I took apart the smoker to preview the wiring. As you can see in the attached photo of my control board my hot wire and neutral wire from the plug are swapped from your photo/example. Since this is AC and Not DC does it matter?? Can I wire per instructions or wire  1 to 4 and 2 to 3 swapping the hot and Neutral wire? Or do I need to pull the back plane and find the limiting switch? The access panel for the heating element only has the 2 red wires ( Black wires in your example) and the ground that goes to the plug. Let me know what you think and thanks again.



You can wire how my diagram mentions it.  You'll be ok.
It doesn't matter AS LONG as you have a braided wire to the smooth white and the other braided wire to the smooth black.

You can hold off on cutting a panel or pulling the back off to get to the rollout safety limit switch since your smoker is currently running.
Just know that it WILL fail on you there at some point.  So now while you have the thing being worked on is the best time to swap out the connects at the safety rollout limit switch and the heating element for high temp ones and to cut a panel for the safety rollout limit switch if you it doesn't naturally have one.

A number of guys have skipped this just to get started and will come back to it when the smoker fails to heat up after the rewire and the PID conversion.
After rewire the only reasons it fails to heat up is because the connectors or the safety switch have crapped out.... or the rare, rare, rare, occurrence that the heating element died.
Oh I guess one more situation is that the fuse in the PID blew but u dont hear of this often either with the Aubers.  

I hope this info helps!


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## JamskiBBQ (Jan 18, 2022)

Tallbm,

Thank you again for this thread. It was way easier than I thought in the beginning. I got it wired up and the Learned the PID programming last Sunday and took it for a test drive. I set it for the max that the Masterbuild controller would do and it got to 275 in about 30 plus minutes. It slowed down around 240 and went down a few degrees but the controller output light was flashing and it started back up and made it's way to 275. When the direct sun moved past the smoker it dropped to 268 but the smoker corrected in an acceptable amount of time. The test run (No Food) lasted 200 minutes, I figured that was a good burn in. Gonna get on that smoked Salmon this week end.  So far I am happy. Do you think I might need to replace the heating element because of the output light flashing and it having to goose up the temp or does it seem like it took to long to heat up? I am curious about your thoughts. But again thanks,  di not feel like sending this to the Landfill.

Regards,

James



tallbm said:


> You can wire how my diagram mentions it.  You'll be ok.
> It doesn't matter AS LONG as you have a braided wire to the smooth white and the other braided wire to the smooth black.
> 
> You can hold off on cutting a panel or pulling the back off to get to the rollout safety limit switch since your smoker is currently running.
> ...


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## tallbm (Jan 18, 2022)

JamskiBBQ said:


> Tallbm,
> 
> Thank you again for this thread. It was way easier than I thought in the beginning. I got it wired up and the Learned the PID programming last Sunday and took it for a test drive. I set it for the max that the Masterbuild controller would do and it got to 275 in about 30 plus minutes. It slowed down around 240 and went down a few degrees but the controller output light was flashing and it started back up and made it's way to 275. When the direct sun moved past the smoker it dropped to 268 but the smoker corrected in an acceptable amount of time. The test run (No Food) lasted 200 minutes, I figured that was a good burn in. Gonna get on that smoked Salmon this week end.  So far I am happy. Do you think I might need to replace the heating element because of the output light flashing and it having to goose up the temp or does it seem like it took to long to heat up? I am curious about your thoughts. But again thanks,  di not feel like sending this to the Landfill.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear your setup is working!

If you want faster ramp up to set temp you may have to lower your "P" value.
Basically "P" is the big value that everything else runs off of. Usually what you set it too works like this.
When P is like a 10 the controller will run full blast supplying full power to the heating element.
When you get 10 degrees (setting is 10) below your set temp the controller will start to ramp down the power. At 5 degrees below set temp it will have ramped the power down 50%. At like 2.5 degrees below set temp it will have ramped the power out put down to 25% of max, etc. etc.

So if you have a high value like a P of 40 then all of that behavior starts at 40 degrees below set temp and at 20 degrees below it is 50% power, etc. etc.

The "I" and the "D" settings will do some things as well but upon initial heat up or if temp drops greatly then "P" will be the setting that brings things back in line.

The downside of a fast and powerful "P" value is that your initial heat up will overshoot a bit so if you have an aggressive P value and your set temp is 275F then you might actually overshoot to like 285-290F and then it will drop down and hold in place.
This doesn't matter if you are hot smoking stuff but MAY matter when doing more sensitive smokes like bacon or sausage where a high overshoot may start causing fat to melt in an unwanted way.

I hope this info helps :)


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