# Need advice for my cinderblock cold smoker Please



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

I'm not sure where to post this or if this is something I should even post on a smoke forum.....it's more of a construction question.

I am working on my *cold* smoker base.....the base is made of concrete blocks. I am using the dry stack method.......(use rebar, stack dry and fill some of the holes with concrete.....)
I would like to finish the outside of the blocks...probably with stucco.

Here is my question, do I layer/paint something onto the blocks, some sort of sealer first...or do I go ahead and stucco right onto the blocks?


Any help or advice would be welcome.
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






 Thank you!


This is a dry run picture of the base to give you an idea of the size....
These pictures are not current, I have started on my smoke box and pipe to the base. The black hole in the base is where the smoke is piped in.


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

No expert here, but they put this thin metal lathe up for like fake fieldstone and wet plaster work. I think stucco is quite similar. Hmm the fake fieldstone would look cool on that too! Known as "lick 'em and stick 'em's" in the trade.
The lathe is secured with either a ramset or concrete pins with washers to hold it .


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Hmmm, fake field stone. I'm not familiar with that. I suppose it looks like the real stuff only lighter in weight?
Thanks for your help too Richtee.


----------



## fatback joe (Nov 6, 2007)

I thought you had to put a wire mesh on the blocks first (at least with houses), I don't believe the blocks need sealed or anything, just the mesh.


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

Yep..it's manufactured. I have it on the front of my house. most all new construction ya see with fieldstone is this stuff. hard to discern 'twixt it and real, actually.


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Thank you Joe, that's what I wondered. Just use the mesh and stucco right on the blocks.


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

Lathe = mesh, FB. Also used for "real" wall tile base. These new construction adheisives tho...incredible!


----------



## fatback joe (Nov 6, 2007)

Yeah, I know.............but hey, I thought we established in a different thread a while back that neither one of us read all the posts before we get to typing.  LOL


----------



## fatback joe (Nov 6, 2007)

Cowgirl,

I did find this also...........not to say that you can't do your own search, here it is FWIW

*Stucco a Masonry or Concrete Wall

*To apply stucco to an existing brick, block or concrete wall, first brush a concrete bonding agent onto the wall, then allow it to dry completely. After the bonding agent has been allowed to dry, the stucco can be applied directly to the wall. The application of the stucco should begin with a scratch coat, a 1/4 to 1/2 inch layer of mortar which is applied directly to the structure and allowed to slightly harden. After the mortar has hardened slightly, it should be scratched to a depth of 1/8" and allowed to harden for between 36 and 48 hours, periodically misting the surface to keep it moist.

After the curing period has passed, a finish coat can be applied. The finish coat will be between 1/8" to 1/4" thick. The finish coat can be finished to the desired texture, then allowed to cure for another 36 to 48 hours, with periodic misting to keep the surface moist.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/applyingstucco


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Ritchtee I'm going to look into the fabricated fieldstone, see what options they offer. Thank you for the idea.
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	




I have regular bricks on hand....but do not want to go to the trouble of bricking the bottom. I think I'd like the fieldstone or stucco better.


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Thank you for the info Joe!
I am not familiar with concrete bonding agents. Maybe I should go to the hardware store and browse. lol


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

Heh... I DO try, it's just that sometimes they come so fast and furious!


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

Here's a shot of my front door area. Which I braved rain, snow and sleet <NICE day here> to get   ;{)


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Wow Richtee, that looks great... they look like real rock too!
Did you do the work?


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

Nope, but watched most of it, of course! Yeah, that'd really dress that puppy up eh?


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Yea......now you have me thinking in a different direction. I need to go to the nearest lumberyard/hardware store. See what my options are.


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

I'm sowwy.   ;{)


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

LOL! No Richtee.......that's actually my favorite store! LOL!
They even send me birthday cards!


----------



## goat (Nov 6, 2007)

Cowgirl,  What are you trying to accomplish by setting your existing smoke house on blocks?


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

goat, I'm not accomplishing anything. lol The original plan was to make a portable smoke box to set on my cinderblock pig cooking pit. Something I could move around and set up when needed.
Then after I finished the box, I decided I needed a place to keep it out of my way when not in use.
The thing is heaaaaaavy....so me moving it around when I need it is not an option anymore. lol
I ended up buying more cement blocks and I'm just going to set it up out of my way and make it permanent.

It's one of those projects that didn't turn out exactly like I had planned.


----------



## goat (Nov 6, 2007)

I just wondered.  If you do not need the extra height, just set it on the ground and skip the blocks.  Mine is heavy also.  I hope that I don't ever move it again.  If I were to move I would probably just build a new one that I could either hot of cold smoke in.


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 6, 2007)

Now I need the height. If I would have known what I know now when I started...I would have built it differently. 
Hindsight is wonderful. lol!


----------



## goat (Nov 6, 2007)

Yes, I am into that hindsight thing also.


----------



## richtee (Nov 6, 2007)

Heh.... bein' a family kinda operation, I shall pass. Discretion being the greater part of valor, that is   ;{)


----------



## goat (Nov 6, 2007)

Rich, I wish I understood what you just said, I think, or maybe not.


----------



## deejaydebi (Nov 6, 2007)

Cowgirl 

Looks like a nice project. I'd definately seal the outside of the smokehouse to protect it from the elements. Even concrete will crumble after a time without a sealer. Being a cold smoker I'd think a standard sealer for concrete block from the hardware store will work fine without leaching into the food. I'd consider aluminum flashing between the  wood and the block. You could do that easy enough by just folding a length equal to the side folding it in half and nailing a strip of wood over it near the bottom and maybe running a bead od chalking on the top inside egde of the board.


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 7, 2007)

Thanks Debi!
	

	
	
		
		



		
			





I have my flashing on hand. Are you saying I should put the sealer on before the stucco or fieldstone?


----------



## richtee (Nov 7, 2007)

Yep. But it's kinda overkill. The stucco/stone will keep the elements off the block.

that flashing will extend over the topof the blocks, I assume?


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 7, 2007)

The blocks will be capped off with concrete, and I will put the flashing between the concrete and the wood. I'm thinking it might protect the wood.
So you think a sealer first would be overkill?

I've built things with wood, but I have not messed around with cement or stucco much at all.


----------



## bbq bubba (Nov 7, 2007)

Hey Cowgirl, no disrespect to the other's, but being a contractor, skip the sealer, mesh and all that chit, grab yourself a bag of ready mix mortar from Depot, mix it to a peanut butter consistency and spread on your block. That will adhere to the block and protect it from the element's.
If your gonna do stone, then skip this, but seems a lot of work for a smoker. The flashing would be a good idea just so the shack doesn't rot sitting on the block. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	




Any more construction question's, shoot me a P.M..........glad to help ya out if i can.


----------



## cowgirl (Nov 7, 2007)

bbq bubba....thank you very, very much!!!
I appreciate your input and your help!


----------



## zapper (Dec 2, 2007)

Well Cowgirl, there is more than one way to skin a rat! (or skim a block) if it is not too late.

First off, I would have laid them with mortar, but dry stack is what you have so lets go from there. There is actually a range of products for applying to plain old dry stack that are supposed to contain reinforcing fibers that are supposed to turn dry stacked block into a structurally rated assembly. Never used them myself though, but I know a couple of guys that swear by it. Basically the stuff is applied like a parge coat or stucco scratch coat and allowed to dry. Then any masonary finish (Stucco) or paint or water proofing can be applied to that. I am with bubba on leaving out the metal lath for such a small project, just put a light "scratch" into the dry stack coating and apply your finish coat right to that if you are going with a true finish coat and not just using the parge coat itself  as the finish.

Brick and stone veneers, real or phaux, are another good choice. Engineered products have come along ways!


I would paint, stain, seal or otherwise protect your exterior wood srtucture to some degree. I am a construction worker, carpenter at heart and have a great afinity for wood. But the simple truth is that the only time that wood does well outside is when it is still living as a tree.


----------



## cowgirl (Dec 2, 2007)

Thank you for the advice Zapper!
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	




I already did the dry stack method of running rebar through every other hole and filling them with quickcrete. The other holes are filled with dirt. Then the whole top is capped off.
If the thing were larger, I probably would have used mortar.

Then I followed bubba's instructions and did two thin layers of mortar on the outside of the base. It turned out pretty well....especially for my first time. lol I have not painted it or anything, it's just plain mortar right now.

I have treated the outside of the wood with a clear, weather sealer....heck, I can't think of what it's called right now.
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	




I had one firebox made out of 20" pipe, but the lid was so heavy, I couldn't even get it opened.
Now I have one made out of 1/4 of a barrel.........It should be easier for me to handle.
I'm still in the middle of attaching the firebox and pipe to the base......I put a baffle/valve in the pipe for more smoke control.

The last 3 weeks have been too busy for me to get anything accomplished on it.
I had planned on having it up and running by November.........huh... so much for that plan!
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	






I sure do appreciate your input......now that I know you work construction, I'll be bugging both you and bubba for advice on my projects.


----------

