# Char-Griller Smokin Pro with firebox- Mods



## mossymo

Sorry for starting a new thread on a subject that has been covered many times but I wanted to post a few pic's of a few modifications I am making and also to asks opinions on what I am thinking for a tuning plate.

First mod I made when I purchased the smoker was adding a dryer vent tube to help keeping the heat and smoke under the hood and more at grate level.





Next step was filling all unneeded holes with ji-temp fireplace caulking. I am also still thinking about Debi's suggestion and running a bead of caulking around the edge of the lip of the cover and laying plastic wrap over the caulking and closing the lid for a formed tight seal and letting it dry and then removing the plastic wrap. Still unsure if this is needed?

I also took the cheap thermometer that came with it out and replace it with a better one and used the hi-temp caulking to seal this in place also. The original one was just snapped into place with a metal O-ring and smoke seep out the cover around the thermometer.





Next I replaced the wire briquette rack that came with the firebox, hot coals had melted this badly and I was having problems keeping the coals out of the ashes which was not helping me keep the smoker heat up. I cut out 2 pieces of heavy expanded metal and double layered them and positioned them higher than the previous briquette rack. Should have plenty of air flow under the coals now !!!





Now on the tuning plate is where I am starting to question my thinking and curious how others have mounted or positioned a tuning plate in their Char-griller. I do not want to drill holes in the belly of the smoker to mount the tuning plate; I feel this will just promote rust and possibly stress the metal body when it is under heat and make the belly and hood not fit snug? The metal tuning plate I am using is 1/16" thick steel, very solid and very heavy. So I set bricks in the belly to prop the tuning plate into position.











The tuning plate is snug against the firebox wall with about a 1/4" gap between the grill and the tuning plate around the other 3 sides. Is this enough air flow so the firebox is not smothered? 

Also I am thinking about cutting a hole in the tuning plate to insert a water pan.


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## geek with fire

Wow, nice work MOss!  I think the only comments I could make are in the tuning plate area.  The plate process I was going to try was multiple plates at different widths and and spaces.  Do you think you'll get even coverage of smoke and heat without the gaps?  I have faith in your thought process, so I'm guessing you're pretty sure you will.  Keep us updated....especially those of us who have the same rig!


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## short one

My question is will the bricks on the firebox end allow for good heat and smoke movement or creat a problem with the air flow through the smoker, causing a bigger problem. When I put a tuning plate in smokinmeat's smoker, I used the bolt holes that hold the legs to mount a rail on each side for the plates to rest on. My .02 worth. http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...ght=smokinmeat

Here's the thread w/pics. You can see the rails in the pics.


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## moltenone

is a tuning plate necessary in a unit of this size? i have the same smoker.


Mark


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## gramason

I have the same one. I mounted a piece of metal that extends about 15 inches into the smoke chamber. I mounted it using the exsisting holes at the top where the fire box mounts. It seems to work good and keep a steady temp. Also mounted angle on the inside of the lid and installed fire place rope or high temp rope to seal the lid. I am interested to see how the plate you installed works.


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## mossymo

Geek with Fire and Shortone
Seeing the tuning plate modification the Shortone did for smokingmeat both your concepts on the gaps address's my airflow concern. I am thinking of trying what I have set up to see how it works and if I need the gaps I can always pull out the saw again !!!

moltenone
I am new to a side firebox smoker and smoking with charcoal, I have only had this smoker a few months. I find myself smoking at the far end of the grill because of the additional heat on the firebox side. I am hoping a tuning plate will give me additional smoking space. 

I am so use to propane and electric vertical smokers I am determined to be successful with this style of smoker. Then the next step will be a dream come true; a pull behind my pickup style stick burner (maybe someday) !!! 

Gramason
I am interested in seeing pics of your set up.


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## deejaydebi

I thought the object of the tuing plate was to have a series of plates to slide around with gaps between them to regulate heat alowed up and into the cooking chamber? Am I getting ahead of you Mossy?

You'll definately be better off with the expanded metal coal basket the wirerack thing is just plain useless!


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## gramason

I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow.


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## mossymo

Debi
That is my dilemma on the tuning plate and/or plates. How I have read from a majority of the posts about tuning plates is that is to defer heat away from above the firebox opening into the belly of the smoker, also to retain heat when the coals are unexpectedly dieing and also to eliminate the need for a waterpan (which I do not agree with,.....yet). 

This old man is still learning, it is a never ending process. I wish Geek with Fire would find a way to store what we have learned onto a hard drive, because I just keep forgetting stuff I learn !!!


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## geek with fire

Yea, I agree.  I chuckled the first time I read Mossy's description of the heat melting the rack, because I'm in the same boat; mine looks like it's been run over. You're right, it is totally useless.


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## ba_loko

Mine too.  I like the expanded metal idea though.


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## gypsyseagod

hey mossy- though i have the brink snp- it's very similar to your pit..my question is( cause the pic was misleading to me) does that tuning plate cover the whole main chamber ?? cause on my pit i have the baffle betwen the firebox & chamber, the waterpan,& i double or triple wrap the closest grate(there's 3)as a tuning plate... i can slit holes for chix or use as a plate... just asking.....


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## richtee

I'd have to add one thing Mo...those bricks will bust up pretty quick with the intense heat. I was using a couple standard bricks to hold my pan up in my ECB^2 and they lasted maybe 3 smokes. Fire brick would be the best to use here, and to address the possible flow problem; minimize their size- maybe split in half and support from the 4 far corners below the plate.

Hmm better yet, weld some legs on the plate itself!


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## hawgheaven

Hey Mossy, here's what I did for the tuning plates...

I cut two lengths of aluminum angle and fastened them to the bolts that hold the leg assembly to the chamber. I cut three pieces of sheet metal to span across the angles.

I also bolted a baffle in place at the sfb opening.

It took a little getting used to at first, but now the whole deal works great!


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## gramason

MossyMO, here is my set up.
I bolted a piece of angle even with the two pieces that the ash pan slides under, and put a removable ash grate. I have a charcoal box made out of the same metal that I set on top.


I bolted a baffle above the hole from the fire box, it extends about 10"

I welded 1x1 angle around the bottom of the lid on the front and sides, and glued heat gasket around the angle. I need to reglue, its falling off in some places.

Also put a new shelf on the front, and side, and a hot plate on the fire box


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## dacdots

Those are what looks like very good ideas.I hav'nt done anything to mine yet and am not happy with the performance.Looks like I've got some work to do.Gramason I really like the idea of the extended work area on the outside.I've got some cherry boards that would look good there,thanks for the idea.


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## deejaydebi

Yeah what Hawg said that's what I was tryng to do, but need thickererr metal I think. Mine buckled. The expanded metal works great though and is easy to get.


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## mossymo

Gramason
Thanks for taking the time to take and post pics, much appreciated. Does the baffle you have seem to level out the temperature from sis de to side?

On the tuning plate I think I need to cut out some separate plates like Geek with Fire, Shortone, HawgHeaven and DeejaDebi have mentioned.

gypsyseagod
I am trying to utilize the entire grate area and cool down the fire box end so I can smoke there also. Might not happen but I need a few times of failing before I quit trying !!!

Richtee
I agree with you on the bricks not holding up, besides that they make the smoker heavy. I think I am going to try HawgHeaven's angle iron for supports.


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## moltenone

Mossy your right! i always find myself on the left side of the cooking chamber
before the end of a smoke.
great ideas,time for some mods, thanks.

Mark


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## gypsyseagod

i just meant by the pic it looked like1 long plate the whole diameter of the chamber.
and yes we do fall if cooking over fire was science caveman would have waited for edison to perfect it first... lol


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## deejaydebi

As nice as that plate fits you might even be able to use that first plate as a baffle if you cut it at least 10" to 12" wide.

I'd make the cuts about thirds leaving about an inch gap and try it then make a second cut if you need too.


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## gramason

I usually put my thermometer about a third of the way from the left side, opposite the fire box, and try to use the first three grates from the left to cook. I'll have it lit Friday and check the temp by the fire box.


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## johnd49455

I like all the mods but I do use mine for a grill from time to time & it would be a pain to remove all the mods to grill. The only thing I do & have good luck with is to use the original Charcoal Pan with aluminum water pans as a baffle/tuning plate.


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## mossymo

johnd49455
I have went bare naked with no adjustments and also placed water pans with better success. I am assuming it is either my water pan placement or missing a plate over the firebox opening that has led me to trying this. 

Then there is the baffle/tuning plate talk and I am trying to perfect for the 1st smoke after the changes. That probably will not happen and I will have to adjust some mod's; but I am attempting to save some meat from torture and myself a little anxiety until I have it down.

Here in ND I will probably not use this charcoal smoker much till next spring as I am use to vertical proane and also vertical electric smokers. But I do want this ready to use next year and our winters are coming soon.


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## walking dude

Don't give up marty............

like what has been said here........you get to eat your mistakes............

whatever comfort THAT gives...........heheh


d8de


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## gypsyseagod

check this out mossy- just triple fold foil & experiment w/the baffle like i do. here's pics.
http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...pitmods005.jpg
 thats after i kept bending it up some to see how much heat i could let in- i started off w/ a 2-3" opening & realized i'm burning fuel by not letting heat to the pit via the baffle. so i go w/ the 1/3 of the pit tuning plate & the water pan. - mind you, it's still not perfect . but i know what i have now as i use it  & cook accordingly. i cn get 300 on the hot end. 200 on the stack end, 225-250 in the mid & 230-250 on the upper racks.


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## mossymo

Gypsy, thank you. It may help eliminate some of future mistakes for me. Your post and pic is very much more than appreciated. 

You do go out of your way to inform members, and that is the coolest thing about this site !!!


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## mossymo

Well, here is where I am at with the tuning plates. As you can see I can not cut straight !!! I blame this on having to take off my glasses to wear safety glasses when cutting.....

First I angled a peice of steel over the firebox opening -






Then I cut 3 - 8" X 16 1/2" peices of steel butting the first peice up to the angled steel over the firebox. and then placed my water pans over the point where the steel peices are butted together.







I am now going to load it with charcoal and take it for a dry test run and see how the temps hold with the fire box changes and how even the heat is from side to side of the smoking chamber. I have a feeling this is all going ot work well so I am also thinking about thawing some ribs for a live test run !!!!


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## walking dude

looking good mossy..............

i know i am getting a stick burner for christmas.......so i am enjoying these informative talks.........


d8de


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## porkbutt

Just wanted to share a couple pics of the fire basket I built for my Smokin' Pro after the first cook left the grate just like you guys described. I used an in stock (at my local Home Depot) Char Broil heavy duty fire grate for the bottom and ends. Heated it with a torch and bent it to form the ends which ended up around 5" high. I then welded 1-1/2" angle iron to the sides of the bottom. I used the same angle iron to make the corners and welded expanded metal for the sides. I suspend it from the cooking grate rails in the side fire box. 

This set-up allows for far better airflow underneath the coals and the ashes don't build up to the bottom and choke my fire after a couple hours like the factory grate did. Pics are: one of the box built but not used... and a shot after a full bag of Original Charcoal Company lump and a few sticks of hickory were fully burned to ash. The cook only lasted around 5 hours but I let it all burn up and shook it into the ash pan just to see how close it would come. There is still probably 2.5" of airspace between the top of the ashes and the bottom of my basket. Even if I cooked long enough and with enough fuel to build up enough ash to choke the fire I can now remove the ash drawer to dump it without disturbing the fire, except for a few seconds of too much airflow with the drawer removed. I love this set-up. 

I also extended the top vent pipe down almost to the cooking grate using a piece of 3" vent duct pipe cut to length and secured with a single sheet metal screw. A pic of it as well...


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## porkbutt

Ok, I checked the factory lid mounted thermo against my Pyrex Professional digital and my turkey fryer dial thermo on this evening's smoke and found that the factory thermo is a bigger piece of crap than I ever would have imagined. I took pics of each thermo, shot within seconds of each other so the temp was steady. The digital and the dial were close to the same the whole cook. 

The lid mount was off maybe 100* at +/- 230 and was worse as the temp spiked up to 250 a couple times. I wish Char Griller hadn't even cut the hole for this piece of junk. I'm looking for two good thru-the-lid thermos and will get an ET-73 soon. Gonna try to seal the factory thermo hole up. 
The pics say it all... 







Explains why the butts I've smoked have cooked too fast and didn't pull at all. I've been basically indirectly grilling/roasting them at probably close to 400* by keeping the factory thermo at 225-230*. 

DO NOT TRUST THE LID MOUNT THERMO ON THESE THINGS!!!


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## hawgheaven

I feel your pain bro... but sealing the hole is not too bad. I bought a stamped steel piggy from http://www.cookersandgrills.com/our_products.html (scroll to bottom of page). It has a mounting stud welded to the back of it... all I did to seal the hole was cut a square piece of sheet metal large enough to cover the factory hole, drill a hole in the center of the sheet metal for the stud to go through, and bend the metal to the contour of the lid. The sheet metal of course, mounts on the inside of the lid. 

Here it is raw from the factory:







Here it is installed and painted...


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## porkbutt

Thanks for the info. Will have to look into something like that. 

Oh, and I meant to add a pic showing my foil baffle I made for this last smoke. Worked great and all but eliminated the hot end next to the fire box. Worked far better than I would have imagined.


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## Dutch

Mossy-there is a lot of good info and tips shared here and the pictures speak volumes on their own.   I'm still looking to get the char-griller Smokin'Pro and plan on incorporating a lot of these mods.  I like the idea of the tuning plates to even out the chamber temps.

I'm elevating this thread to *Sticky* status so that it will be with the other modification thread.


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## mossymo

I agree Dutch, the info I have received off this thread has been very beneficial to me and I am sure many others.

With my last post of how I placed the tuning plates in our Charbroil, my temps varied from one side to the other side from 5Âº to 30Âº difference. I personally was quite happy with that.


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## deejaydebi

Sounds like a success story to me Mossy! Congrats!


PS I love the piggie! I bought this one but I think I like yours better!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90224


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## porkbutt

Ok, I found some Char-Broil temperature gauges at Home Depot that mount through the lid in 3/8" holes (which I will have to drill in my lid). They were $7 and change each. Got two. Gonna mount them on either side of the chamber handle about 1/3 of the way from each end toward the middle. Hope they are accurate. Here's what I found if anyone else is looking for some...

Char-Broil Model 4838 "Universal Fit" Temperature Gauge (should be available at www.charbroil.com if you can't find them at your local Home Depot)

I'll report my results as soon as I have time to smoke something or do a test fire.

Here are a few pics of what I got...


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## ds7662

Chris, I have the same guages and this is how I mounted them. 1 at each side at grate level. They seem to be no more than 5 degrees off. So pretty accurate. Here is the pic.


I am now able to see the temp differnce in both sides. The big guage is one I just happened to come across and used it to fill the factory hole since my SS didn't come with a guage.


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## capt dan

If you have to drill new holes, try to get them as close to the level of your cooking grate as possible.

I had the same problem with the temp guage on my charbroil silver. I bought a 16 dollar dial  gauge somewhat similar to the one you pictured, but not exactly. My charbroil came with a 3/4 inch hole already in the  door, but 2/3 of the way up to the top of the smoker. I didn't have very much sucess either with my first few smokes. I actually had the reverse problem. The dial read 225-250, while the temp at grill level was way less. Butts came out dry and tuff, and almost black from the lengthy cooking time. I bought a cheap "puck style"   thermometer at Miejers for about 5-6 bucks. I guess its a baking  therm, I just sit it on the cooking grate right next to or in between my meats. I was suprised at the  difference of temp. When the gauge on the door said 250, the actual temp at the grate was more like 150-175.

After utilizing this cheap alturnative to the digital remote models, I  quickly learned that if I  kept my  door gauge at about 300, the  cooking surface temp was 225-250.

That was a few smokes ago, before I came here. I had read about the firebox baffle, and had some of the same  problems with the  ribs or butt closest to the fire was getting done too soon, and well done( almost black).  Just moved the meat farther away and suffered through it then. But then  my smoker could really only hold about 2/3 s of its capacity.

Last week, I took one of the crappy old  baking sheets from my cupboards and cut off a 4" wide piece, leaving the  lil handle and bent up edge that comes on it to keep it ridgid. I sheet metal screwed it to the small 1" flang that is bent on my firebox at the top of the hole leading into the cooking chamber.

What a difference it made. No more scorched butts, and the temp stayed alot more stable for a  charcoal grill. 

I hope to purchase one of the fancy type remote therms that  some folks are using, but we'll see when that happens. For now I am  very very pleased in my last couple of smokes.

Thise site   ROCKS!


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## porkbutt

If they're within 5 degrees of the known accurate digital probe I have, I'm ok with them. And thanks for the pics and info.


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## porkbutt

These two thermos are definitely going as close to grate level as I can get them in the top half of the CG. I haven't even looked yet but hopefully I can get them around 1" or so from the grate. May pick up one of the puck type units like you have if I catch one locally at a decent price. Would be neat to have for checking for hot spots. I think I've got my CG cooking pretty evenly now though. Just need to come up with a welding blanket or something to keep the temps from NOSE DIVING when the cool wind blows this winter... 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






 A "smoke shack" would be great, but don't have the extra $$$$ to do that right now. Maybe I can build one for the big smoker I hope to get eventually.


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## kufgod

you guys wouldn't believe how much this thread has helped me!! this is exactly the reason i joined this forum! looks like i'm going to be doing some modifications to my chargriller!


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## jfish63

This sticky was a great find. I made a new baffle for mine it fits real tight and the first cook with it the temps were well within 10* from end to end. I also use a thick rug to cover the smoker in cold weather. Here are some pics.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...Uy=8tv1rq&Ux=0


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## geek with fire

I should probably start my own thread, but it got me thinking (yea, there he goes again) and it relates to Mossy's original post. There have been times when I wanted to tune my box. When you're cookin a bunch of the same thing, it would be handy. But there are times when you're cookin things like ribs and chicken. You don't want the temerature even then.

So I just got to thinkin about a solid steel sheet across the bottom of the smoke chamber; baffeled down to get you more room. But about every 4-6 inches add some adjustable sliding dampers so you could adjust the tune of the pit as needed. When you don't want even temperatures, open all of the dampers. When you need to even things out, open the far side all the way and work your way down as you get close to the firebox.

Maybe it wouldn't work. Maybe too complicated. I dunna. Just a thought. Here's a rough illustration to what I'm thinking. The tall rectangular thingies are sliding dampers (slide up and down).


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## jfish63

You could do the same thing with tuning plates. i just lay mine in they are not fastened in place. Just increase the gap on the firebox end. I wanted to be able to remove mine for use as a large grill.


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## midnight a~ 1/4  smoke

Found this tonight. I am sure most already have done their Mod's but this lets you see first hand the concept.

http://bigironbarbecue.wordpress.com...as-grill-mods/


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## crewcab4x4

Here's a link that shows alot of good mods especially for the damper and tuning plates
http://deejayssmokepit.net/Downloads_files/CharGrilleMods.pdf 

hope it can help . 
crewcab4x4


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## caiguar

ok guys here is what I did with my char-griller pro.  I took the pictures before using the mods so you guys could see the contrasting in color and see exactly how they look at fit.  I installed the flex tube just like a lot of guys did in here.  The pictures might help people know how to do it, hope they ilustrate how its done.  the tube has to be 3inches, that fits perfectly in there, now what you do is this:  mold the tube like an "S" towards the front and dont cut just yet.  manipulate the tube to get a tight fit in the little eyelash that the grill has on the door, rest the tube there in one of the gaps that it has until you get a tight fit, with a knife cut it there, this helps because it helps the tube stay in place even opening the door and closing it.  

here is the pic so you guys can see how I did it.





now on to the firebox.  We all know that you need a charcoal basket in order to achieve constant temperatures in this smoker.  Here's what I did to mine.  Weel , actually I didn't do a think.  I just bought it in lowes, The fit was perfect and it holds itself up and allows air flow to circulate.  They had an assembled char-griller pro there and I went ahead and measured different things in the side fire box and this matched like a charm in there.  It holds itself so you can take the ash tray out without moving it.  It makes your work a lot easier when refueling.  you can see the model and everything for you guys that want to get the same one in the pics.











Hoe you guys like the pics.  Now I have a question for the people that turn the ash catcher upside down when smoking.  How high do you have it, do I pull it all the way up like in this picture, or do I just let i rest on the grill itself?  there is a gap between the tray and the hole to the fire box.  I don't know if I leave it hanging, will it cause a hotspot on that side because of the gap?

If I let it rest on the grill I can pretty much eliminate the gap and almost cover the hole with the tray.  what do you guys do? heres a pic



thanks to everyone for the huge help, hope this helps people out too.


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## ncdodave

I just made the recomended mods to my brand new chargriller pro and have a rack of ribs smoking for a test run to see how things are going. I've got the intake and chimney closed down about 50% and got a perfect 250 degrees at the grill level. I'll post pictures tonight when dinner is cooked and all is good and done.
Dave
 I know I should have smoked the ribs longer but the wife and kids were hungry and it was 8 pm when I took the ribs off. cooked through, juicy and smoked lightly with a narrow smoke ring around the meat.


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## jdfire40

Have you used that grill basket? How has it held up to multiple smokes?


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## smokinrob

This thread is great, i'm getting some good ideas. Let me know how well you think this would work. I have a chargriller with no mods. I was thinking about, as a previous member said, flipping the charcoal rack upside down, perhaps covering the far right grill section with foil, and throwing a water pan on top of that. Then maybe run the tubing from the smoke stack more to the right side or middle of the grill (lang inspired). Would this work together? Am I over complicating it? Let me know your thoughts. I have also been seeing lava rocks at the hardware store. Would these go well in the bottom of the main barrel to help hold in some heat?


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## snowcapn

I'm off to the store to get all of my modification needs. I just bought a char-griller pro with the side box and have been having a few issues, i.e. uneven temp, hard to control temp, and all the little quirks of owning a new grill.
I really appreciate all the awesome info on this site. I also find it a little odd that us smokers and grillers are so darn computer savvy!
Til next time.


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## caiguar

I has held pretty good, after about 5-6 smokes it's still going strong and with no signs of letting me down any time soon.  

sorry for the late reply.


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## qstick777

Glad I took the time to look at this thread!  Guess I have a little bit of work to do tonight before I start smoking tomorrow!

I seasoned my CGSP last night.  I wonder how much my temp gauge is off?  Had a heck of a time getting it up to temp (according to the gauge).  It wanted to hover around 150-175.  Finally threw in some charcoal (and log of striped maple) in the main chamber.  When I went to bed it was reading 300*.  I've never had to season cast iron, so I was worried about hitting the correct temp - sheet said 300 for 1 hour and 2 hours at 200.  Guess I'll be okay?

I'll have to stop on the way home and get some real thermometers and a cookie sheet to use as a baffle.  I got a lot of meat to smoke tomorrow and I'd hate to ruin it!


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## bassrocker4u2

first pic look close, and see the mods. first i ran flashing only part way across, not enought to put out hot spots. then i ran it all the way across, that was too much as it didnt get hot enough. then i just bent up the sides some, and i put three rows of holes through the flashing front to back, side to side to allow some extra smoke through. this worked great, bit the holes get clogged and have to be cleaned often. also extended the pipe down to the grate for temp control.  now, no more hot spots, and no more temp problems. i can stuff it with a ton of wood, and the temp still stays low. and the resulting butts are some of the best i have ever had, and the ribs, well more practice with them yet to come.
stuffed spud... we ran a special on these at the restaurant. . mmm good!


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## turbocoop

Im glad I checked out this thread there was a lot of good info and some of those links helped a lot


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## pookie613

First post here... I wanted to thank y'all for the great mods and useful info!  After this weekend's (3rd) attempt, I finally seem to be on the right track.  

We got a Chargriller Outlaw with sidebox; it's really too big for my wife and I, but Academy had a great deal on them.  Most of the mods here (smokestack extension, fiberglass rope to seal the smoke chamber, coal basket) work great, but I had a lot of trouble with the baffle.  I had flipped the cooking chamber coal tray but discovered that it was really hard to get up to 235F (even with the Afterburner system-- ran it at full tilt and went through a tank of propane in 6 hours).  This weekend, I returned the coal tray to its standard position, put the chicken, ribs & brisket at the far end, put water near the firebox, and went back to coal & wood.  Worked great; I even had to nudge it back from hitting 250F! I think it's because the Outlaw's big volume needs as much heat as possible; maybe a full-length baffle bleeds off too much heat?  (I'll have to try it with the Afterburner system again.)

Another thing that I found helpful was having a thermometer (with +700F calibration) in the firebox lid; it shows when flare ups occur, and gives advance notice of where the smokebox temperatures are heading.  I'd have never suspected this but saw that opening the smoke chamber sometimes caused temperatures to increase, presumably because it gives the firebox more oxygen.

I can't wait to put in some more grilling time during the upcoming long weekend!

-Jim


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## noire

Just completed my first mod :)














Grabbed a "charcoal basket as well, but I'm not sold on the fit yet.


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## crd26a

On my last smoke, I flipped the main chamber charcoal tray to use as a baffler.  What I noticed was the left side now ended up much hotter than the center of the smoker.  

As I do not intended to use this as anything other than a pure smoker (I've got another grill to use for grilling), I was thinking of drilling holes in the charcoal tray to allow heat to come through.  Thoughts were 3-4 1/2" holes ever 4-5 inches across the tray, with the first set probably 10 inches from the fire box.

Would this help out overall?  I think it will, but would love some expert opinions.  Thanks everyone.


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## dadwith4daughters

CRD...I was thinking the same thing but came up with this. 

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...ad.php?t=19227

Although I think holes may be the best solution, this works fine for me. I know, because I just finished 10 butts and 60lbs of chicken. Here's the q-view. 
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...ad.php?t=19462

Good luck and Happy 4th.


----------



## ncdodave

Here's some pics of the last mod i made and i cant believe the difference of sealing the air leaks around the lid makes.



this shows the spacing of the flat bar around the front and one of both sides. notice 1 nut between the flat stock and the smoker on the front and 2 were needed on the sides (see next picture). I had a tighter fit along the front and more wiggle room was needed on the sides for the lid to close.



this one shows tucking the fiberglass rope into the space between the smoker and flat stock.

Along the back of the lid I just bolted (with washers)the rope to the bottom of the smoke box. the flat stock would not allow the lid to close. I'm thinking i should have attached the rope to the lid instead. (more experimenting)


----------



## dadwith4daughters

Man, that looks great! did you have that steel cut or did you just buy from Lowes? I'm definitely doing this one.


----------



## ncdodave

you could buy it from Lowes I got mine from Home Depot.Instead of cutting each side piece and the front piece I heated the flat stock with a propane torch then hammered it on my anvil to bend, since I don't have a bending brake. I bought a 6' piece of 1"X 1/8". The side pieces go just in front of the hinge pins. The only place around here that carries the stove gasket rope year round is Ace Hardware. My home depot, osh and lowes all dont have it in stock regularly at this time of year.


----------



## choochmm

Well, I went to both Home Depot and Lowes tongiht to try to buy the supplies to "gasket" my smoker. The only thing I could find was the 3/4" angle.I asked a couple of the employee's if they hane any fiberglass rope or stove gasket and they both called their managers since they had no idea what I was talking about. Looks like I am going to have to find what I need on-line. Regardless, I am refusing to fire up my smoker until I get it sealed. After reading some of these threads I now know why my brisket is not coming out the way it should. I just can't keep a consistent burn without going out every 15-30 minutes making sure my charcoal and wood is not burned out.
I do have a question regarding the adhesive need to cement the rope to the angle. What is it exactly that I need to get? I saw "fire caulk" at both places but not a specific high heat adhesive. There were plenty of adhesives available but not ant that specified a high heat application. Is the caulk to be considered the same as adhesive? I also plan on using aluminum angle rather than steel. It's much lighter and cheaper and since it will not get direct heat it should hold up just fine. Do I need a specific adhesive for this to work for me?

I still am not clear on how to seal the back cover of the grill so if anyone can spell it out for me in simple terms I would appreciate it. I am not a real handy person (as my wife would attest) but I can cook my *** off. Now I need to learn to smoke it off as well.

Thanks!!


----------



## ncdodave

I got mine from Ace Hardware. The only place around here that carries the stove gasket rope year round is Ace Hardware. I just bolted the gasket to the lid with washers, bolt heads inside and nuts out. As for cement or any adhesive the stove cement I used the first time got hard and broke right off my brand new unseasoned smoker. this time the flat stock and bolts hold the gasket in place by pressure.


----------



## teeotee

The best stuff i've found (on recommendation from someone on the forums) for sticking the gasket in place is High Temp RTV Sealant. I used that on mine and it is still holding real good. Can get it from any autoparts store, walmart etc.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...one_Gasket.htm


----------



## choochmm

Then it's off to the local ACE and Walmart to see if I can get what I need. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you all know how it works out.


----------



## 1894

Those fireplace stores usually carry gasket rope also.


----------



## choochmm

Finally rounded up all my "supplies" to seal up the smoker. I had to order the rope gasket from the local ACE hardware store and they got it for me quickly. Anyway, I spent the morning putting the rails on and then getting the gasket glued on. I did go with aluminum 3/4" angle rather than steel. It was easy for me to cut it with tin snips since I don't have the tools that I would have needed to cut the steel. The aluminum was also cheaper and much lighter than the steel. For me it made working with the angle much easier. Heat should not be a problem since the rails are on the outside of the smoker. The smoker also will not be getting to very high temps. All in all it sealed up very nicely and that RTV gasket maker holds that rope down like it was bolted on. I ended up sealing the back by using screws, washers and nut's since the RTV would not stick well to the painted surface of the smoker. Still worked out great but I plan on removing the screws from the back and using rivets instead. The screws I used were just a little too long and the grill grates are resting on a couple of them. Not a big deal but just big enough to bother me. I am going to wait another day or so before I fire it up. I want that RTV to really set up (although after a couple of hours it was holding down that rope gasket really well). I can already tell my major draft problems are going to be over. 
My thanks to all of you for the great ideas.


----------



## dangerdan

I cut my sheetmetal baffle and affixed to to the firebox outlet.



Using the grills from the firebox to support this plate I picked up at Menardo's



and a grill wok that I got 25% off cuz it was a little mushed.... 

I had the flue pipe laying around so I cut and installed that earlier.



I also picked up some gasket rope and high temp RTV sealant to try & seal the unit better.

If all goes well with my trail run I think I'll do some ribs, beans & corn tomorrow.


----------



## grindstaff3

go to wal-mart in the automotive section and get high temp gasket sealer.  i had the same problem with mine breaking off. twice actually.  got the gasket sealer (it's orange) and i haven't had a problem since.  also home depot and lowe's only carrey fire rope during winter months so if you have a local hardware store anywhere they should have it


----------



## choochmm

You can also order the rope gasket through ACE hardware. They got mine in 2 days with no additional charge for shipping. I also got the RTV at the same place. The gasket I bought was called "Grapho-Glas" the 1/2" - 5/8" thickness is perfect if you are sealing the grill using the 3/4" angle rails.


----------



## choochmm

I'm smoking some brisket and ribs as I write this. I have a question regarding the temp of the smoker. I have no problem reaching a temp of 200 in the smoke chamber. The problem is that I can barely get it above the 200 mark. I am using lump charcoal with oak and hickory chunks for additional flavor. I am losing very little heat/smoke after I sealed the smoker so that does not appear to be the issue. Do I need more aire flow? I have the vent wide open and a ton of coals in the firebox.
Thanks


----------



## ncdodave

If you're going by the thermometer that came with your smoker you are no doubt way off. My thermometer in the lid is 75 to 125 degrees off. I bought a oven thermometer from ACE in their little kitchen section for $6.00 and change and placed the oven thermometer inside the smoke chamber, next to the meat. I have no problems what  soever with the modifications I have made to get my smoker to temp (225) and keep it there. I was told by everyone who has helped me with modifications not to trust the factory thermometer in the smoker. Do you notice how high that thermometer is mounted? The temperature I am concerned with is at the cooking grate level where the meat is.


----------



## choochmm

I am not going by thhe factory thermometer. I installed one at just about grate level plus I have an oven thermometer sitting on the grate inside the smoker. All in all the meat I did yesterday came out very well. Ribs are falling off the bone tender and the brisket could probably used another 30-60 minutes but is still pretty tender. Most of the cooking was at 200 degrees.


----------



## bass3859

I spent a considerable amount of time looking through this thread for mods for the Chargriller. First off, thanks to everyone for all the good info.

I have done 2 mods so far. Baffle/tuning plates and the dryer vent tube on the chimney.

The first is in the smokebox. As you will see, these mods are very similar to the tuning plate and baffle mod done by mossymo. I attached perforated angle steel to the front and rear of the drum, about 3" of so from the top.

I found some 6"x18" 22 gauge sheet steel at Home Depot, and picked up 3 of those. These act as the baffle at the opening to the fire box and as tuning plates. The angle steel just happened to attach in the drum at a point that was 18" or so across, so the sheet steel lays in perfectly, and I can slide them as needed.

The final mod was to attach a 3" flexible dryer vent tube (courtesy caiguar) to the chimney and run it to the front of the top, stopping just above the opening. As caiguar did, I just clamped the tube to the chimney. On the other end, however, I did drill a small hole and attached the tube to the front of the top with a small nut and bolt.

Everything seemed to work out much better with the mods than without. I got higher, consistent heat with them, and an overall much better experience.


----------



## seboke

My big brother growin up as a smoker!  kinda brings a tear to the eye 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





  Lets see them tuning plates dirty!


----------



## quackmaster_ar

Glad I found this forum.  Just bought the dryer vent hose to start the mods to my Char Grill.  Thanks so much for the advice.  Already bought a oven thermometer to get away from factory gauge.


----------



## delta dick

Just bought a Smokin Pro w/ side box. Been reading about the mods. Have installed the dryer tubing to the smoke stack & am seasoning it rite now. The thing I notice most is the smoke leakeage around the drum lid.As I'm seasoning it I am also trying to figure out how to keep the temp. at 225, I know that the temp gage that came with the unit is not even close, I will look around for a couple of accurate gages. I'm wondering if the charcoal carrier that is in the main drum can be used as a tuning plate. Any help will be appreciated.

Dick


----------



## ncdodave

smoke leaks sealed look here:
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...?t=9774&page=7


----------



## pinkmeat

Hey guys. This thread makes me want to rush out and buy this smoker. I did do a little searching and Home Depot sells a larger "Outlaw" version ($159,  1000sq in cooking surface) of the grill portion that would be a little bigger and still accepts the side firebox.

Did see this accessory on Chargriller's website and thought it was worth posting:

a charcoal basket- $10, looked pretty good....

http://www.chargriller.com/shop/bbq-...al-basket.html


----------



## helljack6

Hey! I got one of these great things too, and yes to your question about the charcoal carrier in the main chamber can be used as in that manner. What I normally do is flip the carrier upside down and hang it as high as I can and then take foil and cover the right/left gaps so that the heat comes from the SFB out and up and spreads along the entire length of the charcoal carrier and foil. I have noticed that I am well within 15 degrees from hot side to cool side doing this.

As far as sealing the seams, use super heavy duty foil, fold it over several times and then press it down along the edges of the lower lip, not the upper lip of the lid. Seems tedious I know, but it works well, plus it makes clean up a snap!

I have also used heavy duty foil and lined the entire bottom area of my main chamber, this allows me to use somewhat less fuel to acheive the same temp (going on the fact that the foil in the chamber reflects the heat back upwards into the upside down charcoal carrier which then spreads it out evenly to the left/right) No tuning plate needed after that.

For hitting your 225 and holding, I start my fire with charcoal in a chimney starter, and yes I can hit 375 pretty easily using the SFB, and open upper exhaust all the way open. Once my coals are hot, I dump them into the basket in my SFB that I had made (10x7x5) and put that right next to the opening of main chamber. Shut the main door and close the SFB vent down to barely an 1/8 opening and let it burn for about 40 minutes or so.

I think I read it somewhere on thesmokering.com website someone actually did the math and found to get the optimal exhaust draw for a more complete and efficient thermal burn thus using less fuel, your exhaust needs to extend UPWARDS 2/3 the length of your main chamber. My chamber is 29 inches in length, so my chimney stack from the opening on the lid extends 19 inches roughly upward.

Also, the direction in which your SFB is facing has a lot to do with it too, is it facing into or away from the breeze/wind? The natural breeze feeds the fire and if it's not getting something, yeah, it's going to be a bit harder to keep the fire going and constant.

Placement? Where's it at? I noticed a tremendous difference this past weekend when I used my smoker in the garage (had the garage front and back door open all the way for venting of course!) I had no problem hitting and maintaining a constant 300 for over 4 hours using the SFB with an ocassional basket shake and an extra handful of charcoal at a certain point.

The biggest thing for me was forgetting that the stock therm is no where close to cooking level temp. I went out and bought a 6" high temp therm from the store, popped the lid handle off and drilled a hole large enough that I still had to wiggle a bit but was able to get the stem of the therm into the lid all the way. Put the handle back on and presto, I have a visible accurate temp gauge at grate level.

Most of my learning has come from (luckily) just firing the grill empty and learning how it burns, making changes incrementally and waiting and noting the effective changes. Get a notebook and log what you do and what you change and the outcome, you'll zero in on complete temp control alot faster because you won't have to try to remember all the stuff you did last week, just look it up and you'll already know where to begin.

I personally fire my grill 4x - 6x a week even if i'm not going to cook on it but I always try to cook something even if it's just one or two steaks. Plus it helps to "burn in" the grill faster too.

Just my $.02 worth.


----------



## fireguy

someone here gave me this idea... looks like what you might be after... works pretty well... till I get the real tuning plate mod done. hope this helps!


----------



## jond

I agree, i have just done my first mods today and added 2 decent thermometers to my CGSP.  With a Maverick ET73 i should have a much more accurate picture :)

Pics are here: http://www.new.facebook.com/album.ph...b&id=574639361

Jon.


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## walking dude

spam reported


----------



## smokin365

As everyone who owns a CGSP knows, the charcoal grate melts after about the first good long smoke.  I havent had the time to get a basket for mine yet, but i did find a quick fix get me by solution.  48" stick of 1/4 inch cold rolled steel, cut in 3 pcs and welded to the underside of the grate(after bending it back).  ill get a basket one of these days, but this will do till then.


----------



## pinkmeat

Hey everyone, the Black Charcoal Wok from Lowe's ($10) fits the side firebox as well if you're looking for another charcoal basket option in a hurry!


----------



## muscleoverimport69

Thanks for this thread I just got one of these and was looking for mods to it. This is a wonderful site and you are all so helpful


----------



## coyote-1

I'm gonna try killing two birds with one stone - or more precisely, with 2 pans.

An 18" metal sheet fits almost at the top of the smoke port from the firebox. So I'm considering simply a pair of 18" x 11" (or 12" if I can't find 11") baking pans, perhaps an inch or two deep. Put one right next to the firebox, then space the other so that there's 2" between each pan. Fill 'em with hot water plus my choice of aromatic agent (such as beer), and it should function as a) a baffle, b) tuning ports, c) temperature stabilizer, d) drip pan, and e) basting/mop pan!

On that note, one could also do a reverse-flow mod by simply using an 18" x 26" commercial baking pan. And you never know, maybe I'll try that too.


----------



## ncdodave

coyote,
commercial cake pans come in the 1/2 sheet size of 18 X 12 X 2 and full cake pans are 18 X 24 X 2. You can buy from any restaurant supply store. ask for cake pans, not sheet pans. sheet pans are only about 3/4" deep. good luck and post some pics!


----------



## bishop916

the stack is on the wrong side for reverse flow, but i like the bake pans idea.


----------



## ncdodave

Bishop,
The nice thing on a new Char Griller Pro is uou can put the fire box on the stack side of the smoke box if you dont punch the foot ball shaped hole out of the one side. You can use a sawzal to cut the hole out on the stack side to make it reverse flow. If you have a used smoker you can cut the hole and bolt or weld a plug over the side where the fire box was previously. Its a totaly doable job. I may have to go out and find one just to turn into a reverse flow with qview to show how it was done, and I'm no metal worker!


----------



## coyote-1

There would be real inconveniences with that. Beside having to cut the hole, you'd have to go around the back of the grill to maintain the fire - not great ergonomics.

Were I to do the reverse-flow mod, I'd simply get a 2nd stack that would be mounted on the firebox side.


----------



## bishop916

That's thinking outside the box (no pun intended) Dave!

Yeah you could drop another chimney, as it sits though it obviously couldn't be reverse flow. 

Let's see how it looks when you're all done with it Coyote!


----------



## texas_skills

New to this forum and smoking in general. I have a vertical Brinkman with a few mods that I have made. One of the mods I did was to take the water pan and put play sand in it. Since the sand has glass, in granular form, as it heats up it become hard like a giant heating plate and that's how I get constant temps with it.

Not sure if this has been mentioned but has anyone used a large baking pan covered in sand from the opening baffled firebox all the way down the bottom of the grill?

Also instead of metal for tuning plates what about thick ceramic tile or Spanish roofing tile? I think that would retain the heat better.


----------



## coyote-1

I have the 2nd chimney... but this winter's experience is showing me that installing it might be pointless, as wintertime smokes are working better with no baffle. Much more heat is getting into the smoke chamber, and with 30 degree temps and 20mph winds I need all the heat I can get.


----------



## got14u

u could always take some dry vent and instead of just lowering where the exhaust is u can run it over to the fire box side. or atleast i think that should work. i have always wondered why no one does that here. it actually makes it a reverse flow in my opinion...or am i way off ????


----------



## got14u

I'm bumping this because I am curious what some of the more experienced guys think about my idea above ???????????


----------



## btfrancis

Has anyone messed with the LP Side Buner for the Char-griller?  I saw it at Lowes for 39 bucks and was wondering if it could be modified <I am sure it could be> to run of a regular propane tank.

http://www.chargriller.com/store/pro...products_id=45


----------



## jdt

I was out at the local bbq supply store yesterday and saw this 1/8 inch firebox plate for the brinkman, sure it would work for alot of the smaller offsets to help keep the firebox from burning out so quick.

halfway down the page, right hand side $14.99 sounds like a pretty good deal but it may be a little costly to ship as it is bound to be a little heavy. 


http://www.hawgeyesbbq.com/BBQ-Accessories6.html


----------



## mavrick813

I have the Side Burner for my CGSP I use it to light my Chimney before dropping it in the SFB. 

I'll probably be switching to an Afterburner this year only because I never have time to monitor the flames all night long. 

Mike


----------



## mcmelik

I have a CGSP with the SFB and am starting on my Mods. The thing I am having trouble finding is the 3 inch dryer vent. Every place I look around here is 4 inch. Where do you get the 3 inch??


----------



## bame

Little off topic but what should i get to replace the charcoal rack in the SFB. I originally flipped mine over for air flow but now it's warped almost beyond recognition.


----------



## rickw

Try and find heavy duty expanded metal and use that for the fire box grate. That's what my Horizon came with and it works great.


----------



## bame

One more thing while I'm thinking about it. Using the aluminum flashing to drop down the smoke stack. My understanding from reading is that it will keep the "good" smoke circulating and vent out the stale smoke, my question is how much will this affect the temps in the smoker. I haven't done much in mods outside of adding two smokey mountain thermometers to the left and right side of the smoker and I flip the main chamber ash catcher over to use as a poor man's baffle. Just wanted to know if this will make a significant change to cooking temps


----------



## billclarkson

I have spent hour after hour reading all i can on here and i finally ended up getting me a smoker with SFB.  I had gotten the stove gasket stuff and after putting it on i found it just crumbled and fell off.  So i have seen some Permatex high temp sealant and will try and find that and see how it works.  First question is when i fire up the smoker i am loosing alot of smoke from the fire box is that normal or should i seal it up also.  And second when i see that the temp is getting too high which vent should i start with to lower the temp, the smoke stack or open the vent in the firebox, plus i have two vents in the firebox both on the outside but one above the other.  I want to thank everyone who spends a minute or two here giving their advice and also to other newbies with all the right questions.

Bill


----------



## bame

I don't know much about the gasket issue since I've lined the edges with foil. I keep my smoke stack wide open and do all my temp regulation with sfb damper. If you aren't going to get a charcoal basket or a new rack for the coals at least flip over rack that comes with it for better airflow to the coals. It helps to make a foil snake and place close to the opening so coals don't fall and get stuck (a big hassel if you have to empty the ash drawer midway through a long smoke). And definently invest in some new theremometers. I picked up 2 old smokey 2 inchers and they read great (fairly inexpensive too)


----------



## mossymo

billclarkson
Leave the damper to the smokestack wide open while wood is burning, smoldering or smoking always; the smokestack dampener should always be wide open while smoking otherwise you risk a stronger chance of giving your food product too string of a "burnt" smoke taste (creosote). This can be closed or adjusted for less heat loss after the food product has been smoked but left in the smoker to obtain temperature and all wood chips/chunks or pellets are not burning.

If you wish to lower the temperature, adjust the firebeox dampers; with less airflow to the coals/wood so the temperature will go down from having less available oxygen.


----------



## coyote-1

Just in case you seek to build a Minion box for your CGSP, the maximum you can build is 13.5" wide by 12" front-to-back by 7" deep. I just experimented with cardboard and then with expanded steel. Deeper looks like it could work, but when you actually build it it does not fit. Now I just need to install the double-wall divider and 4 bolts to hold it up on the rails. I'm estimating that even with a 1" gap in the divider, I'll still be able to fit 75% more charwood in this new basket than in the wok-basket. And the wider gap will help prevent premature ignition of the other side, thus providing even better temp control PLUS longer burn time.


----------



## ncdodave

would love to see qview of that box when you're all done coyote


----------



## coyote-1

Her ya go:


Ain't the prettiest but it'll do the job. I simply cut and then folded/wrapped the sides rather than remove chunks of the expanded metal, and I inserted from one into the other to tie it together. I then chose to enclose it within a 1/8" thick steel band, and deform that band to make the protruberances that hold it on the rails. The band goes through the corner slats, and that's what holds the thing together. From there I tapped out a 1/4" 20 hole in the band, and screwed the double-wall divider onto that. I also opted to keep the entry-side wall short to facilitate fire maintenance.

Here's the old one for comparison:


----------



## dadwith4daughters

Coyote, I've never seen the divider before. What is the purpose?


----------



## coyote-1

If you use the original Minion method (dumping a chimney of lit coals onto a full undivided basket of unlit coals), the fire spreads in all directions - this prevents that from occurring. It makes the fire travel in a C-shape, thus extending the length of burn as well as enabling better temperature control. In this case, I'll be dumping the lit coals into the back-left corner; it will burn toward the the front of the firebox and then around toward the firebox damper.
BTW - if I could do this over with a bit better knowledge of the limitations, I'd make the bottom 13"w * 12"d, with the front 4.5" and the back 7.5". I'd put a 1/8" wire bead all around the inside, and then fold in 1/2" all around the top to create a better top edge. Some years down the line when this burns through I'll do that.


----------



## snuffy

I found it at Lowes. It is not dryer vent as they are 4 inch. It is for vents such as bathroom exhaust which have less air flow.


----------



## coyote-1

Will post pics within the next week or so.

For the front shelf, I made custom hinge brackets from nails and then modified the existing shelf brackets. The metal that holds the shelves together is weak though, so I'm gonna shore it up with angle iron.

For the side shelf, I bought 1.5" hinges plus flat head sheet metal screws. So now those two brackets fold into each other. The wood is going to be mounted on angle iron, and that assembly will simply be dropped onto the brackets when they are swung open. I'm toying with the idea of a pivot mount, so that it remains attached somehow.

I also moved the moving handle from the firebox to the other side. Suddenly, the CGSP takes FAR less space in the garage. Which means it'll be able to STAY in the garage when not being used, which means it won't sit in the rain and become a victim of rust.


----------



## grillinwithbob

One comment I need to address is that some setups from the seller may not come packaged correct.  They need the football size knockout removed on both the side box and smoke chamber main unit.  I have never
seen a display grill shown this way at lowes or Menards.  Don't think you can get the correct heat in the smoke chamber without doing this.

Can anyone tell me how off the temp. gauge is.  I cooked a bunch of wings at around 200 deg. for an hour based on the stock gauge, and I 
thought they were very well done for that amount of time.  I am guesing the gauge doesnt show the temp as high as it really is.  does this sound right?

Thanks


----------



## grillinwithbob

Just a comment regarding grills put together by Menards or Lowes.
The football size knockouts should be removed on both the side  unit
and the main smoke chamber.  I have never seen this done on a display
unit.  If you purchased a unit put together by these guys be aware.

Also... Does anyone know if the temp gauge runs low or high on the heat?
I cooked some wings at 200 deg. for about an hour and they were very done, and almost too done and dry.  I would prefer slower and longer.

Thanks much 
Mojo


----------



## ncdodave

my thermometer i never go by it runs 75 to 125 degrees low meaning the smoker is hot. i went to ace hardware and bought a $6.00 Taylor brand oven thermometer that works awesome. I just set the thermometer on the cooking rack next to the meat on the fire box side of the meat.


----------



## grillinwithbob

That makes sense.  looks like I was cooking about 300+ degrees.  Way too hot.  I  have had some set in temp gauges and after about 3 smokings
you couldn't even read the thing.  Probably should have cleaned them though.  Thanks much for info.  

What the heck is that next to your photo?

mojo


----------



## ncdodave

i clean mine with a teflon scrubber and hotwater it cleans right up . that white thing in my photo is someones arm.  the person who took the picture was taking a Dutch oven class i teach in carson city every june and was looking over some shoulders.


----------



## grillinwithbob

Cool.  Campfire dutch oven I assume?  You explore the different cooking
techniques like I do.  Love cooking different styles.  Would love to know 
more about dutch oven cooking someday.  

Thanks for your info.

Mojo


----------



## coyote-1

So here's a few. The hangar bracket made from a nail, and the mod to the shelf bracket. Of course, after taking these I painted it all black. Odds are good that I'll simply replace the stock bracket with angle iron to increase stability, but in the meantime the folding shelves are in business!


----------



## smokinsquid

We need more pictures of the completed shelf mod. I love the idea but I am having a hard time visualizing what this will look like done.


----------



## coyote-1

It's done. here are some more pics.First, here's the front shelf pics. I added some angle iron to stabilize it, but what you see here shows how it works.







Now the side shelf. I simply added hinges and built a mount for the wood from angle iron, and that sits right atop the new folding 'wings' (the bolts slide into the holes on the wings, keeping it locked into place). The angle iron is threaded, 1/4-20, to hold the wood pieces.








And here's the side shelf, stowed:


----------



## jirodriguez

For those of you thinking about getting a Char-griller Pro 800, Lowe's has them on sale for Father's Day. The main body is on sale for $99 (down from $139, and the side firebox is $69 (no sale there 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






). Still $40 bucks saved can buy you two racks of Costco ribs and a nice shoulder or butt roast 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





.


----------



## workoutchamp

JI, got mine yesterday - I asked the guy and he offered to assemble it for free.  
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





PLUS< for 10 bucks, I got a yr replacement warranty - he said just bring it back next year and get a new one.  Of course with the mods, i doubt that would happen, but.....  for 10 bucks, if I don't like it - whamo.

Thanks guy!  Brad in Kentucky.


----------



## trashcan

Yesterday, due to the rumors of a "Fattie Throwdown" Immediately started mods on my SmokinPro. I wasted a bit of dryer duct, mainly because I forgot it extends... so In all wasted about a dollars worth of aluminum... 

After extending, flexing, trimming and feeling dumb... and a little tipsy

The charcoal basket was simple enough, once I found my dad's grinder. I cut the expanded steel to 12"x20", measured in 4" from both sides (the "Long" way) and then ground grooves to make bending easier. It was'nt that easy. Had to superglue my finger back together. But still doable by hand.



I then cut my largest remaining scrap in half, giving me perfect 4"x12" side pannels, for a basket 12X12X4, Which is about the largest thing you can easily wedge through that little firebox door.

Today I stitch the coalbasket tothether with clothes hangers, and make a baffle out of a cookie sheet, which I will doccument and post.


----------



## oldschoolbbq

I reverse flowed a NewBraunsfeld RedRiver,with a baffle plate(stainless) and it works great,here's a shot of the baffle,maybe you can see the plan well enough?





anyhow, I hope this helps,I know it's not a Char,but it's the same design...
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	




SMOKE HAPPY
Stan    aka     bbqfans


----------



## amdisc

*Does anyone know where I can find a charcoal basket for a Char-griller pro sfb.*

*Thanks*

*Happy SmokeN'*
*Sunny St. Petersburg, FL*


----------



## olewarthog

A lot of people use the Charbroil shaker basket found at Lowes. You will need some way to mount it above the ash drawer. Some use threaded rods & hang it from the rails that support the cooking grates in the SFB. Others have cut pieces of angle brace so they wedge against the sides fo the SFB above the drawer then sit the basket on top.

Another option is expanded metal. Lowes or HD normally have 24" x 24" sheets that can be cut & bent into a basket. Again you will need some way to keep it above the ash drawer. Do a seach & you will find lots of info.


----------



## ncdodave

i bought my charcoal basket from a second hand shop. it looked like it was a chest freezer basket for a small chest freezer. i had to burn the plastic coating off before i put it in my fire box but it fits perfectly and holds a lot of fuel with no warpage


----------



## thadius65

I am in the process of modding my Super Pro w/ SFB to be reverse flow.  Adding a 26.5" stainless plate to be attached onto firebox nuts/bolts.  I left about 3" on the non-SFB side for the heat/smoke to begin its reverse flow.  Quesiton is in regards to smoke stack.  Can I just use the vent pipe trick and go across the top of the grill and down the other side near grate level, or do I really need to move the stack to the SFB side?  

Thanks,

Ted


----------



## thundernoggin

I was wondering the exact same thing.


----------



## 1894

I guess you could try it and see if it works . Not sure how well it would draw but there is one way to find out


----------



## thadius65

my only hesitation on moving the smoke stack is ....  will the cover fit if spun backwards to accommodate the stack covering? or is the protrusion of the front shelf problematic?

Thanks!


----------



## thadius65

Answered my own question by getting a cover at Lowes and trying. Doesn't work real well on backwards. I assumed the sides where the same, but the firebox pullout on the cover is much bigger than the side for the side shelf.

So is reverse mod worth it on this or not? As seen here:

http://users.wbsnet.org/n0yk/charbroil silver.htm (not my idea, or grill)

Thanks,

Ted

_Smoke it if you got it!! 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	



_


----------



## richoso1

Nice work my friend, you're really working at getting the most out of your smoker. It's all good.


----------



## coyote-1

I think not. I even went as far as to order a second smokestack, so that I could have a sort of "*reverse-flow at will*" arrangement. But after some months of use, I've decided that the CGSP would need to be far better insulated to make reverse-flow a good idea.


----------



## thadius65

My seasoning/burn-off run went well.  Got temps up in the 250-275F area with my stainless reverse flow plate, completely sealing all but 3" on the opposite side of the SFB.  Used a full Weber chimney starter and a couple pieces of sasafrass.  Second smoke stack is in exact opposite location on the grill lid.  Temps were 10F less in the center and 15F less at the far end.

Hopefully Sunday I will get my first smoke on my new smoker!

Quick question.  I cannot find my tape measure.  Cans someone tell me how big the stock thermometer is on the Char-Grill Super Pro?  Man, you guys aren't kidding when you say it is off.  Like 100F off!!  Any recommendations on brand/type?  Should I install on on either end with nothing in the middle, or ??

Thanks,
Ted


----------



## thundernoggin

I used the 3" River Country thermos at grate level as recommended in some of the CG mods running around.  There is a pdf link on page 5 of this thread to give you an idea of what I did to mine only a little lower.   You can find the thermos on Ebay and I got the nicer RC version.  Post some pics of your plate if you can.  I've been thinking about doing the same thing.  Working on these grills is almost as fun as eating the experiments.


----------



## thadius65

I'll get some pics tomorrow.  

I may have a design flaw, but i wouldn't no for sure.  The stainless plate runs about 4" below the grates and just about at football cutout height on the SFB and Grill connection.  Is that distance from grate to reverse flow plate to much?  Is the object to get the heat/smoke to run at and over the meat, or is above and below okay, or ??  (charcoal newbie yammering!)  
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Ted


----------



## workoutchamp

KROGER - Chargriller pro - $79 on sale.  Go get you one.


----------



## thadius65

After my initial burn-in.  Here are pics of my reverse flow mod w/ stainless, as well as second stack addition:

Gap on non-SFB side:


Close-up of Gap non-SFB side:


Attached to SFB side using SFB nuts/bolts (note about 4" space between stainless and grates. Not sure if to much:



Looking in from SFB:


Twin Stack Mod:


Inside Twin Stack Mod (will be extending down closer to grates):


Any comments of thoughts?

Thanks,

Ted


----------



## thundernoggin

So how does it cook?  I'd like to try something like that only removable so I can do some grilling too.  Thanks for the pics.  Curious too about cooking temps and fuel consumption increase or decrease.  I've got some silicone gasket on the way for the lid but how that is going to turn out remains to be seen.


----------



## thadius65

First cook will be on Sunday.  Got the 3" flex for stack down to grate and used angle iron for charcoal basket.  Ready to rock and roll!  
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Details and Pron to follow!


----------



## coyote-1

Can't wait to hear!! I ordered the 2nd stack last year with intent to do a removable reverse-flow, but decided to forego it. The stack is still in the box...

I'm VERY interested to hear how it works, particularly the fuel consumption.


----------



## jirodriguez

I found it is not good to grill in your Chargriller once it is seasoned. You burn off all your beutifull seasoning with the high heat - did that the 2nd week I had mine... lol. So went onto Craigslist and picked up a Weber Kettle for $25 and use that for my high heat cooking.


----------



## thundernoggin

Very true.  I was drawn to the CG because it gave me some different cooking options.  But watching that seasoning go up in smoke is not so fun.


----------



## thadius65

Sorry for the late post of Pron!

Here are some baby backs on their final hour, along with Dutch's Wicked Beans:



and my (3) new River Country thermo's (1-2" and 2-3").  Reverse flow does a great job of keeping the right and left pretty well in balance:



Very please with the Char-Griller.  Now I have a Primo XL on the way to get into the ceramic world also!  
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Ted


----------



## warthog

Here are some mods I did to my pro.

First one here is the *vent extension*











These are the* SFB* with the *Lowes Basket*











Dual [font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]*Thermometers*[/font] at grate level






*Vent extension* with *rain guard*


----------



## thadius65

Warthog,

Looking sweet!  One more recommendation - Ditch that worthless Char-Griller mid-thermometer.  I put in this:







Ted


----------



## warthog

If you look I already have two of them at grill level. I ended up using the 3" model. Don't care about the one up high.


----------



## thadius65

Yep, saw that.  I only did mine for balance, not neccessary by any means.  I tend to go overboard!!


----------



## cocomm

hi all, just want to make sure i'm in harmony with my CG.... when i first bring it to temp (deflector, tuning plates, heck all available mods) the temp is within 5 degrees from one side to the other. after loading it with meats depending on how much of the grill surface is covered ie one butt or 3, the temps get all out of wack from side to side up to 30 degrees different. is this normal?


----------



## thadius65

I was dead on without food and once i put it in...  off by 25 degrees left to right.  Funny thing is, with my reverse flow setup, it is the non-SFB side that is hoter.  I am going to drill some oval shaped holes between mid point and right SFB side, place a sliding tuning plate and adjust accordingly.


----------



## warthog

I am not using any baffles but do have the charcoal grate flipped over. I get about a 15 degree difference with the right side being hotter then the left.
I do have the vent mod installed.


----------



## jirodriguez

I do the same thing... and since I usually have a mix of stuff on I use the hotter side to my advantage. Things like ribs and butts go on the cooler side. Chicken, sausage, ABT's get the heat..... and the upper rack is reserved for Dutche's Baked Beans 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





.


----------



## jcdcampbell

I have found any easy fix. I place a large alluminum pan with water up next to the chamber from the fire box. (Under the smoking grill) This helps redistribute the flames and keeps them from scorching any meat close to that end of the grill. You have to keep checking the water level though, but it works well for me.


----------



## cocomm

i got the last turkey fryer at wally mart for $20, and had to try it for that price. about 4 to 7 smokes in, it always has tbs, super fast heatup and easy temp control. this weekend will be my seventh with the new setup and my better half now enthusiastically endorses the lighter (less black bark) smoke. i should add here that she and i nearyly have to fight over appetizers and fatty stuffings. it took several smokes to come up with the best way for smoke generation, and wood seemingly lasts forever, one cut up piece about the size of your forearm for a 9 hour smoke. my smoking pro already had ALL of the mods prior, so a little work with tin snips and a hack saw did the trick. this forum is a blessing to all aspiring smokers.
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





 thank you, ben


----------



## mossymo

Over 2 years since this thread was started and 160 posts later, I never would have thought it would still be going strong.....


----------



## ncdodave

I hear ya mossy!


----------



## marty catka

Great mods to the offset.  Looking to move into the CharGriller soon and this thread has been very informative.  One question though, has anyone considered using firebrick on the bottom of the smoke chamber for heat retention? I would bet that the tuning plates could be supported by these as well.  Just lay them in and follow contour of barrel.... just an idea.


----------



## ncdodave

Marty,
The problem with the fire bricks in the bottom of the smokin pro is that the fats drain all the way to the bottom of the smoke chamber anw would make a terrible mess as well as not allowing the grease to drain fromthe chamber into the grease catch can under the chamber, which is hung by a hook. Fire brick woyld retain the heat but with my particular smoker I have not had the problem. 25 degrees difference is not a problem for me in my smokin pro.. I have used the temperature difference to my advantage by smoking different foods in the different temperature zones, ie ribs pulled pork, beeg, chicken, etc.


----------



## coyote-1

If your tuning plates are also drip/water pans (as I'm using), you simply set up the pans atop the bricks. Solves many problems in one shot.

Just make sure the bricks are not blocking heat/smoke from entering thesmoke chamber.


----------



## thadius65

Anyone interested in my Smoking Pro with mods? I have moved into the ceramic world with my Primo Oval XL and have not touched anything else since. Located in Williamsport PA for pickup only.

Here are pics of my reverse flow mod w/ stainless, as well as second stack addition:

Gap on non-SFB side:


Close-up of Gap non-SFB side:


Attached to SFB side using SFB nuts/bolts (note about 4" space between stainless and grates. Not sure if to much:



Looking in from SFB:


Twin Stack Mod:


Inside Twin Stack Mod (have exteneded to grates on both sides with metal dryer vent):





and my (3) new River Country thermo's (1-2" and 2-3"). Reverse flow does a great job of keeping the right and left pretty well in balance:



In addition to what is seen above, I have an extra bottom half of the main grill and charcoal tray as well as an extra SFB and a cover.

(moderator - if not in proper area, please advise)

Thanks,

Ted


----------



## pit 4 brains

I tried a litttle something different. I used some saltillo tile and some spanish roof tile. I moved them around until I got some even temps..



Add two floor tiles to carry heat to the stack side



Add some roof tiles to deliver heat like ducts to wherever you want.


Easy to adjust while cooking by sliding the tiles with a fire poker..


----------



## fireguydrew

I am still fairly a newbie though I have done quite a few butts, venison and other smaller meats. still trying to attempt to perfect somewhat.
I have added another 4 thermometers to the outside of the main Q. 2 regular heat and 2 high heat just outside of the smoke box. I did this to figure out the heat loss from one end to another as well as from bottom to top. I would like to regulate the amount of heat coming from the box any ideas??
I would also like to add a small fan on the outside of the box good idea??


----------



## timtimmay

Hello,

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this site and to this thread.  I spent a good portion of the evening last night reading this thread.  

I got the CGSP for Christmas.  I'm a noob to this form and to smoking.   I have seasoned my grill and done an initial smoke.  I discovered with this initial smoke the temp differences across the grill as well as the innacuracy of the thermometer.  

I noticed even after calibrating the thermometer is way off, I think due to the fact that the coil of the thermoeter isn't really in the grill so the temp I was getting is somewhere between the chamber and the ambient outdoor temp.

I'm a bit dissapointed that all these mods are necessary, I wished I could get a good smoking experiance out of the box.  With that being said I think this is the best unit on the market in this price range and I'll do what it takes to maximize the performance of the unit.

This weekend I'm doing some mods and have some questions and would like some feedback on the plan.

1.  Flexible duct to extend exaust:  I can attach on top with a clamp.  I didn't see if anyone is securing to the lid?  Does it just stay in place due to rigidity?

2.  Sealing the lid with oven rope:  The guy at the hardware store (knowledgable fellow, not some kid) suggested that I use hi-temp silicone to affix it.  Will this hold it in place?

3.  Sealing the firebox/smoker compartment:  I see that some have welded.  I don't have a welder, I was going to seal this with silicone as well.

4.  Fuel:  Most on here seem to be using charcol.  The manual says to use the firebox you should use logs.  I was planning on getting a charcol load in to get it started and then using some hardwoods from there.

5.  Heat shield:  Many have turned the coal grate over.  I intend to keep it for use when I'm cooking larger items so I can set them on it (turkeys, geese, etc) and still use the warming tray.  I got some flat ducting sheet metal.  I 'm planning on bolting a layer or two of it 6 inches or so to deflect the heat below the charcol tray.  I'm the most unsure about this step.

6.  I saw a lot of people building/buying charcol baskets to elevate fuel and to enable you to dump ash during a burn.  I didn't see anyone just using the cooking grates that come with the side firebox.  Is there any reason not to just put the fuel right on the cooking plates?  It seems to me that this this is an easy simple solution but perhaps I'm not understanding something.

Thanks for your help


----------



## olewarthog

1. Most of the time it will stay in place. You can drill a hole near the edge of the lid & bolt in place.

2. Someone else will have to advise you on this. I have found that loosely rolled foil seals well enough for my. I line the bottom of the MC with foil anyway for easy cleanup. I just pull a few extra inches, roll it back to the lip & slowly close the lid so if shapes itself.

3. My SFB fit snugly enough to the MC that I did not need to do anything to seal it

4. I use charcoal for heat & wood chunks for flavor.

5. I don't see why that wouldn't work. You may want to do a couple of trial runs with your baffles set in place before you make permanant mounts. You may find you need to tweak or tune them for most balanced temps.

6. My experience is that the charcoal is held closer together in a basket & that results in a slower, steadier burn

Hope this helps!


----------



## ncdodave

Let me try to answer some of your questions.

1. Flexible duct to extend exaust: I can attach on top with a clamp. I didn't see if anyone is securing to the lid? Does it just stay in place due to rigidity?
*A)* There is no need to secure the ducting to the lid as the ducting stays in place because of its figidity. I personally however drilled a small hole in my lid into the ducting and attached a small bolt with a couple washers to hold it in place. (just to make it look neater, no other reason)

2. Sealing the lid with oven rope: The guy at the hardware store (knowledgable fellow, not some kid) suggested that I use hi-temp silicone to affix it. Will this hold it in place?
*A)*Because there is not a trough or channel to hold the rope in place I suggest making one from flat iron or aluminum and using silicon and small boltd and washers to hold the rope in place. The silicone alone does not hold the rope as I personally found out. The small bolts and washers secure the rope nicely and insure a good seal on the CGSP

3. Sealing the firebox/smoker compartment: I see that some have welded. I don't have a welder, I was going to seal this with silicone as well.
*A)*I did not weld my fire box either as I also do not weld or have a welder. I bolted the fire box with silicon and flat stove rope to seal. suing the factory holes. It works very well.

4. Fuel: Most on here seem to be using charcol. The manual says to use the firebox you should use logs. I was planning on getting a charcol load in to get it started and then using some hardwoods from there.
*A)*I personally use mesquite charcoal to get the smoker preheated and foe a small amount of flavoring. I use fruit and nut tree trimmings (small logs) for smoke. It works well and I have at times used just mesquite char and just logs after i get a bed of coals to keep everything going I like the trimmings bot the CGSP because they are easy to load and I can regulate the heat and fuel load easily with the "sticks" than logs and splits in this small smoker

5. Heat shield: Many have turned the coal grate over. I intend to keep it for use when I'm cooking larger items so I can set them on it (turkeys, geese, etc) and still use the warming tray. I got some flat ducting sheet metal. I 'm planning on bolting a layer or two of it 6 inches or so to deflect the heat below the charcoal tray. I'm the most unsure about this step.
*A)* I cant answer this one for you very well as i turned my tray over and used aluminum flashing near the firebox to close the gap. I smoked a 18 lb. Turkey and took off the warmng tray to do so. It worked well for me

6. I saw a lot of people building/buying charcol baskets to elevate fuel and to enable you to dump ash during a burn. I didn't see anyone just using the cooking grates that come with the side firebox. Is there any reason not to just put the fuel right on the cooking plates? It seems to me that this this is an easy simple solution but perhaps I'm not understanding something.
*A)*I tried using the cooking grates to burn the fuel on. There are several problems: 1) the grates dont allow the ash to fall down below because the gaps are to close for the ash to flow in to the bottom choking the airflow of the fuel. 2) you cant load enough fuel to keep the smoker going for more than 45 minutes to 1 hour. Using a basket allows a larger fuel load anf longer burn times of the fuel between restoking and using the minion method uses much less fuel. I use half as much fuel with consistant temperatures with the minion method vs. without. I made a smaler grate than the cooking grate that sits about 1 1/2 to 2" above the ash tray to set my basked on that works very well. I have 2 baskets so when the first burns down I have a second basket loades and carefully pour the remaining coals into the second basket to continue the burn. 
I hope this helps.


----------



## jirodriguez

Remark - the only concern I would have with putting the turkey on the ash pan is that with the curve side facing down there is nothing to trap the heat & smoke under the pan and force it to travel the length of the smoker. So even if you baffle the firebox to force the heat down it will imediatly rise once past the baffle - but never having tried that method myself I suggest you try it and keep a close eye on your therms.

I personally used a hose clamp to attach my dryer vent tubing to the inside of the stack, then at the grate level I drilled a 1/4" hole and put a 1/4-20 bolt through and used a wing nut and washer on the inside to secure it. (Probably overkill, but... never know)

If you use some sort of silicon or adheasive to hold the rope gasket make super sure you clean the area that it will be bonding to. Any grease or film will make it so the gasket does not stick. I have seen some people use a combo of silicon and rivets. Silicon makes a nice seal, rivits hold it in place real well.

For therms your best bet is to get a digital with probes for meat and chamber. But if not (or if cheap like me 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






), I have two at grate level - one on the left and one on the right. They work great and are easy to install.

Definately get a basket. The shaker basket from Lowe's seems like the easiest way to go. If you don't have one you will be spending a lot of time tending the fire.

All in all these are great units for the non-competition users. They hold a lot of food for that big family dinner or the block party, and once set up don't take a ton of babysitting. Just don't tell my wife that.... I have her convinced I have to spend 6-8 hrs. "tending" the smoker (with a beer).


----------



## timtimmay

Hey Guys,


Thanks for all the responses so quick!

For the gasket, I'm reluctant to put a bunch more holes in at this point.  I think I might try a combo of silicone and clips and put it on the inside of the lid.  I'll see how that works for a couple burns.

For the firebox I'm not sure which way to go.  I guess it depends on which way I go with fuel.  If I'm primarily burning wood then it doens't matter too much to get the charcol close to each other, more space for wood is better.  I could just put expanded metal cut to fit right above the ash pan so I could empty the ash mid-burn.  However if I go charcoal for fuel then getting it in a tight box would be better.

I'll play with my heat deflector and see how it does.


----------



## timtimmay

I did the first mod last night; we'll see how it holds up.  I added a fiberglass rope stove gasket to the lid.  I took the lid inside since its below zero outside and the cement suggests room temperature!

I used 1/2" rope and 2000 degree rated cemet.


----------



## barneypoo69

Here's my mod's :

Shaker basket in the fire box



This is the baffle (19" x12" piece of a road sign, stainless steel, & paint removed. I cover with foil, hate to scrape/clean). At the bottom of smoker are the grates from the Side Fire box for my drip/water pan:



Here is what I'll use to seal the top (rope gasket from Lowe's & high temp gasket maker for in-between the fire-box & smoker ) when it gets warm enough:



Hope this helps........because ya'll have helped me alot my friends


----------



## timtimmay

My gasket came off rather quickly.  I suspect a combo of it not being cleaned enough and too much pressure on it for glue.  I think I will sand it down a bit and try again, but also put some hardware to hold in place.

My firebox grate from expanded metal worked very well, as did the dryer hose mod.

I'll revisit the gasket in a couple weekends and hopefully have better luck.

I also replaced the drip pan from the soup pan joke to a small bucket held in place with an S hook.

Next on the agenda is a stronger shelf.  I have about 100# of wood on it and it is bending.


----------



## chargriller

Hi fellas,

Found this thread accidently. Great to see there are others that have discovered this sweet grill/smoker. I've peeked at all the mods and hats off to all for their ideas. I've had my CG Smoking Pro w/sfb since 2005 so have either tried or done many of the mods I've seen here. Theres more than one way to skin a cat. But I've also done many more mods to my unit.

1. Insulated lid mod.
2. MC (Main Chamber) lid hinge mod.
3. Heavy Duty Frame and Wheel mod.
4. Side Burner shelf mod.
5. SFB cooking shelf mod.
6. Tire valve temperture probe mod.
7. Lid gasket mod.
8. SFB charcoal grate Mod. (Raise shelf.
9. AfterBurner propane conversion mod.
10. EZQue Basket rotossiere mod.
12. Both home made charcoal basket mod & Store bought Charcoal basket mod.

I archived with photos most of what I did. If anyone is interested I'm sure I can find them with a little digging and would be happy to pass on what I've learned in the mod department. After all that's how we learn!


----------



## jirodriguez

Would love to see some of those mods. If you get a chance please post some pictures.


----------



## thadius65

Same here CharGriller.  Sign me up for wanting details and pictures!

I am planning on adding a BBQ Guru port to my firebox in the spring for River Lot weekend smoking.  Less fuss to vents, more time to spend with family and Beer!

Ted


----------



## ncdodave

Well, Lets see those pics of your mods! I'm up for more improvements any time!


----------



## chargriller

Thanks guys, Didn't get any email post notices so didn't know any were interested til I checked just now. I'm on my way to work on one of the simpler ones. Ditching the stock charcoal grate in the sfb and substituting either ready made or home made charcoal basket(s). It may take me a little time to chase the info and pic's down so be patient.


----------



## chargriller

I took out all the stock grates. I threw the sagging coal grate away. I then cut and placed two pieces of angle iron across the opening front to back exactly above the sfb drawer slide. (enough to clear). Then I cut the sfb cooking grate down to fit as a shelf that rests on the angle iron and placed my two baskets on that. Pretty easy...no drilling.


----------



## chargriller

Commercial SFB Charcoal Baskets & Shelf mod.

Insulated MC lid mod diagram

Home Made expanded metal charcoal basket Diagram (I copied)

Home made HD frame and Wheel mod. Unpainted & painted.

Grate level Tire Valve Therm mod. diagram.

Mounted outside & inside view

Home Made expanded metal charcoal & wood basket made off diagram.

There are some more but these should be okay for awhile.


----------



## ncdodave

Clay,
Those are awesome! Got me thinkin for sure now!


----------



## coyote-1

You know, back when I got my CGSP I'd thought about doing an internal insulation job. But it was just gonna be the aluminum sheet, and a 1/2" gap to the dome... ultimately I decided it was overkill and opted not to do it.

How's yours working for you?


----------



## bame

When putting in the insultion is it just a stand alone shell on the inside? I've been wanting to tackle that issue but have been lazy since I'm in Myrtle Beach and once I clear February it's usually smooth sailing for me weather wise. My biggest question is should I bother with the mod or stick with my trusty blanket?


----------



## chargriller

Insulated Main Chamber Lid
I don’t have allot in the way of tools or skills outside the ordinary. It was a pain in the butt to do….but I have reaped more benefits than cons from the mod. It has worked out well for me. With some exceptions. 

1. I can’t leave the lid down for very long when grilling with coals in the MC. The thin aluminum will expand and buckle from the intense heat generated by grilling. On the upside I don’t often have a need for the lid in the down position when grilling. In retrospect I would probably go for a little heavier aluminum and maybe have cut slots where I drilled holes…if that makes sense? I’m thinking if I had allowed for the expansion of the metal with creating some relief the aluminum, wouldn’t want to buckle?

2. Not a really big deal but the mod makes the lid two or three times heavier. So It prodded me to come up with a lid hinge pin modification to accommodate the increased weight. I never cared for the sloppy way the or slack in the mating surfaces of the lid and bottom barrel anyway. 

3. The heavier lid only emphasized to me the rickety ness of the frame and wheels ….soooo it also prodded me to come up with a cheap and easy solution for a stouter frame and wheel set up.

4. I decided against using ordinary fiberglass for the insulating blanket that is between the lid and inner liner. I instead went with a product called ceramic glass. It’s supposed to be a spin off benefit from the space program that provides better insulating qualities than fiberglass? All I know is it (the mod) works very, very well. It causes the smoker to come up to temp much more quickly, and I think helps maintain steadier temps. For sure I use less fuel when using briquettes, charcoal, wood or propane. Takes less fuel to both reach and maintain target temp. IMHO.

5. I’m in the Pacific Northwest. I contend with wind heat loss more than anything else. It’s a tremendous difference in my opinion. It’s still strange to see my temp gage at 250 or 300* while laying my bare arm across the lid and only feel a pleasant warmth! If you don’t have sever heat loss issues are have found a blanket that works fine….I wouldn’t bother with the mod. 

Pic 1. the insulation
2. Smk. Stk. Cutout
3. Liner installed.

It's much more invloved than you can see here and I have or think I can find pics of all my steps if there were any intrest.


----------



## jak757

What an interesting idea.  Where did you get the ceramic glass?  Do you think that could be sued as part of an outside blanket? (I not much when it comes to metalworking!)

Nice job!!


----------



## chargriller

Thanks. John not really. You would need to cover the insulation with some kind of material that would be fire & tear resistant. Many hardware stores or stores that sell wood stove and firelace inserts would be where to look for ceramic insulation. If I remeber mine was an inch thick.

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if there was an inter-net source for the ceramic insulating blanket. All the mods can be done with common everyday tools. Just takes patience ....no skill. Everything I did was Mc Gyver approved.


----------



## marty catka

And what did you cover your ceramic glass with?


----------



## chargriller

The blanket is sandwiched between aluminum sheet and the main chamber lid. Refer to previously posted lid insulation diagram. Here's a pic of the aluminum sheet I used.


----------



## the big dawg

Open mine up today and one grill grates is cracked half way across. There are 4 joints and 2 are cracked. These are the cast iron cooking grates.

I am going to email the company and see if they will send me a new one.


----------



## bubbahotep123

Here a coulpe of mods I have done to the firebox... Added heat plates to the inside of the firebox...Smoked a pork loin for 4 hours at 225 with the minion method.  didnt have to refuel once during that time....


----------



## bubbahotep123

here are a couple of mods I did to the fire box.  I added two heat plates...one on the lid and the other to the back of the box.  did the minion meth for 4 hours
	

		
			
		

		
	














	

		
			
		

		
	
 and held at 250....  Also, heat up time was cut down by at least a half hour to 45 min in 50 degree weather...


----------



## ynotk

my first butt smoke on my CGw/SFB

9 lb butt slatherd w/ mustard coated w/ my rub in fridge over nite

next mourning fire started at 5:oo am Butt put on at 6:00 am by 9:00 am my meat remote read 130, pit remote was at 230

It is now 2:30pm meat remote reads 185 I believe the butt is getting done sooner then I expected. I guesss Thats ok it sure fine with me I want to thank all the folks here I believe that I learned a lot from them by stalking this forum.


----------



## alelover

I like to use mine as a charcoal grill sometimes too. I modified mine for easy disassembly.

You can see it here. It's pretty redneckish but it works pretty good.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/fo...-from-junk-around-the-house-qview#post_523514


----------



## nwguys

would anyone have these pics to this post?


----------



## nostradamus

Big thanks to all the posters....  I've had my Chargriller for years and basically just used it as a grill because it was so completely worthless as a smoker.  Basically had written it off due to all it's shortcomings....  A google search for a part led me here and about $20 at Lowe's and 30 minutes later - I made some basic mods.  Smoked a pork butt Saturday....  could not believe the performance.  It's now a heck of a backyard cooker.  Fire very easy to manage and for the most part pretty carefree.  I ran it about 8 hrs. total; it was a nice day - external temp in the 80's.  Of course had to re-load the box, but could get through 1.5-2 hrs at a time with an occasional damper adjustment only.  Anyway - THANKS!!!

To the lazy new-comers (like myself)....    my 3 mods were:

 - 3" dryer vent mounted to the inside of the chimney - was able to bend it and still can use the warming tray.  Brought it all the way to the level of the grates.

 - 2 bags of ceramic brickets.  placed like a 'blanket' underneath the ash tray in the bottom of the barrel.  AMAZING difference.  Basically zero heat lost out the bottom and much less fuel needed in the firebox.

 - $7.00 Char-broil temp. gage from Lowe's.  Drilled a 3" hole on the left side just above grate-high.....dead-on from a temp stand-point and obviously giving me the temp. at a level in the where i need it.

I use a water pan as a makeshift baffle.  Already own a char-broil basket and as it gets colder here and I'm smokin in the winter months - i'll modify the basket as you'all have shown and use it in the fire box.

Anyway - the Chargriller went from being some of the worst $ I'd ever spent to some of the best $ I've ever spent.  thx!


----------



## derekb

Help please! I just bought a Char Griller Pro... For now, i will only be using it as a grill (no SFB). My question is, since im only using it as a grill, should i still extend the chimney to grate level with aluminum dryer vent mod?


----------



## jirodriguez

derekb said:


> Help please! I just bought a Char Griller Pro... For now, i will only be using it as a grill (no SFB). My question is, since im only using it as a grill, should i still extend the chimney to grate level with aluminum dryer vent mod?


No... if you are just hot grilling you don't need to do any of the mods.


----------



## derekb

ok thank you! ill only make the mod when i add the SFB, which should be soon enough.


----------



## j don

Looks like it's time to pull mine out of mothballs and make some serious modifications.


----------



## peixegato

Hey, nice mods.  What did you use to pop holes in the cover to put those thermometers in?  I got a couple of them and don't want to risk messing up my cover trying to punch holes in them.

Thanks!


----------



## smokinbluz

Hey guys, just lookin around BBQ boards to see what all people have done to their Chargrillers to make a cheapo unit cook like a pro. I currently own a Chargriller Outlaw w/sfb, a weber 22.5 kettle and a charbroil gasser. This is my second Chargriller, my first one a Smokin' Pro lasted 6 years and probably would have lasted longer if I took care of it. I modded my Outlaw with information i've grabbed from here and other forums. I have a charcoal basket in the SFB, the bottom is lined with red brick pavers, I have a heavy steel baffle running the length of the bricks, I have a 3inch dryer duct running from the smokestack to the firebox side of the smoker just above grate level (hello cheap reverse flow!) I have two bimetal thermos on the lid on opposite sides to ballpark temps, then i have two identical Maverick ET-73's to nail the food and cooker temps. I haven't decided if I want to seal the cooker door with fiberglass rope (oven seal) or insulate the whole thing with welding blankets. The current mods have helped me churn out some of the best BBQ i've ever had/made and it easily spanks any joint claiming to serve BBQ around me (NE NJ i know lol not much goin on out here for BBQ) As soon as the board lets me post pics I will....now back to the 16lbs of shoulder i have smoking :)


----------



## caseydix1

I have the same smoker i sealed my doors with hi temp.silicone and gasket works great. I made a cover plate for my firebox bent it about 35-40deg.made a tuneing plate from threesixtenths steel cut it the width of the smoking chamber at the height i wanted it from the top grate just layed it in no screws it's heavy enouch not to move.cut the lenght3inches shorter than the smoking chamber. from the firebox in i drilled 7-1/2holes 3rows then 3/4hles 3rows then one row of1 1/2 put 2 good thurm. on R / L side of cooking chamber the height of rack.moved my smoke stack from the top to the bottom on the cooking chamber.4 inch pipe. i also put lava rocks under tuning plate.  KEEPS TEMP. THE SAME AT BOTH ENDS.             HOPE THATS HELPS.


----------



## caseydix1

I have the same smoker i sealed my doors with hi temp.silicone and gasket works great. I made a cover plate for my firebox bent it about 35-40deg.made a tuneing plate from threesixtenths steel cut it the width of the smoking chamber at the height i wanted it from the top grate just layed it in no screws it's heavy enouch not to move.cut the lenght3inches shorter than the smoking chamber. from the firebox in i drilled 7-1/2holes 3rows then 3/4hles 3rows then one row of1 1/2 put 2 good thurm. on R / L side of cooking chamber the height of rack.moved my smoke stack from the top to the bottom on the cooking chamber.4 inch pipe. i also put lava rocks under tuning plate.  KEEPS TEMP. THE SAME AT BOTH ENDS.             HOPE THATS HELPS.


----------



## alelover

How about some pix of those mods. As we say here...


----------



## mintee

Nice work kid!


----------



## wmarkw

Wanna bump this thread.  Thanks to the OP for posting his notes.  I have followed it so far and I'm almost done. I'm going to use this as a smoker only and have no interest in using the main barrel as a grill.  That being said, can I flip the fire grate over and use that as a baffle?  Do I need to drill some holes in it to help tune the heat?  I was wondering what you all have done with the fire grate.  I also need to add a deflector by the firebox as the fire grate doesn't cover the vent to the firebox completely.

Also I did some research on the gaskets and I think I'm gonna use a food grade safe silicone tubing that is good up to 500 degrees.  Not sure on the gauge/diameter if anyone has done this can you tell me which size you picked?  Thanks.

Mark

Also, my Kroger dropped the price of this model to $64.99; I got a price adjustment from $77 and with the $35 side firebox I only spent $100 for this thing!! 

Here is the tubing i was thinking of.  Of course I'm not sure on the diameter:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-I-D-Sil...096?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a6cfe840

My idea was to slit it length wise and then crimp it over the edge of the main barrel.


----------



## wmarkw

Well I got most of my mods done.  Will update my thread tonight.  I did a seasoning run on friday night and was ok with the temps; about -7 deg difference right to left.  I'll take it.  I then cooked some abts, fatty & a chicken Saturday and I noticed I lost a lot of smoke out the back of the smoker.  My silicone tubing worked fine for a seal on the sides and front but I have at least a finger gap on the back of the smoker.  I did wad some tinfoil back there but it didnt help much.  Any ideas?  I know my lid is on correctly but do you all have that much of a gap?  Thanks.

Mark


----------



## hacksawdwyer

Notice the even temps on both sides (if you think 5 degrees is even)













Thanks for all the ideas, with the help of my friendly neighborhood welder I added:

Smokestack extension

Gas burner in SFB

Two Thermometers

Stainless Steel baffle with handle ( 2 pieces)

See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil pigs to cover up hole where POS OEM thermometer went

http://payneswelding.com/Photos.php


----------



## hardslicer

is this a great hobby or what!!  every step is a learning experience and a way to help us mprove our Q.....I don't have one of these units, but certainly find this interesting


----------



## steelpeart

If you think you might want to pick one of these up and haven't, keep your eyes open for sales.  My wife spied one of these for sale at a local clearance place - and for some reason, they were selling this PRE-ASSEMBLED for $99!  Some folks say it's a good little smoker for $200 - I say it's the best buy I ever made at $99.

So keep your eyes peeled.


----------



## hacksawdwyer

Is it weird that I do not have any real issue with the smoke escaping from around the grill? The only place I really get any smoke escaping is on the SFB.


----------



## wmarkw

kid creole said:


> Yes, I have that much gap.  It changes depending on how much lid is open or shut because the hing isn't exactly on the axis of the back of the smoker.


What I ended up doing was carefully bending the lip with some pliers.  So now it is actually flush to bottom of the barrel (or a nice seal) but I have no problem opening/closing the lid; nothing is rubbing against the lid and barrel.  I'm digging this somker and the mods were easy.  I did do the high temp silicone seal on the front which is working well and then for the sides i have the high temp/food safe silicone tubing that I slit and fit on the sides.  So some smoke leakage but not much.  I bought this to replace the stock thermo; not the best but its prettier but does have a short stem.     I did do the 2 thermos at the grate level mod where I take my primary temps but wanted something to look at other than the crappy stock thermo.  I knocked the glass out of the stock thermo, drilled a hole and put this thermo inside the stock one.  Works fine.


----------



## raa171

I'm looking at making the modifications to my chargriller in the next week or so.  Can anybody recommend how far the tuning plate should be below the grate?

I've read in several posts about reverse flow and moving the smokestack to the opposite side.  Is there any value in making the changes to create a reverse flow?


----------



## billjo

I am in the same boat as you, found this link , please share the post's you find inspiring with me

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AXZC78/?tag=smokingmeatforums-20


----------



## hacksawdwyer

I made my baffle 2 inches below the opening of the side fire box hole.


----------



## bass28in

OK. I bought a CG Smokin' Pro w/ Side Fire box off Amazon last weekend ($153, not tax, free shipping). Been reading SMF non-stop getting great mods to make this thing a magic meat making machine. I've done everything...

Installed two River Country adjustable thermo's at grate level (I plan on covering up the factory them with a stamped metal piggy I found on the internet).
Sealed the lid to the body with oven gasket and high temp RTV (I mounted some angle iron to support the seal along the sides).
Sealed all the tack welded seams with high temp RTV.
Sealed the gap between the SFB and cooking chamber with high temp RTV.
Fab'd and installed a baffle.
Fab'd and installed tuning plate rails.
Fab'd and installed tuning plates (haven't experimented with configuration to get the best results yet).
Filled all the empty holes with nuts and bolts.
Touched up all the red RTV and shiny new blot heads with black high temp paint.
But...I only ATTEMPTED to install the 3" semi-rigid aluminum tubing to the smoke stack...
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





The bottom of my stack is flared out. It measures 3 1/4" and the 3" tubing won't fit. Anyone else have this problem? Any idea's?

Thanks in advance!!


----------



## venture

Something must have changed? The 3 inch fit my CGSP chimney perfectly:







This shot was taken before my first smoke on that unit when it was new.

Also, I recommend two probe therms  above the grate, one on each side.  It is good to know your temp differential from side to side before you get too carried away with tuning plates and baffles. You can see the wood therm holders I rigged up.  Mine runs within 10 degrees side to side just with careful placement of disposable drip pans.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## mossymo

bass28in said:


> The bottom of my stack is flared out. It measures 3 1/4" and the 3" tubing won't fit. Anyone else have this problem? Any idea's?


I would think if you took a needle nose pliers and gave it a few light crimps it should take enough flare out to fit the 3" hose over it..... just my thoughts thinking out loud I guess.


----------



## hacksawdwyer

Unscrew the pipe and use a hacksaw to cut just above the flare. I had use of a plasma cutter so it was easy peasy for me. If you have a welding shop around they will cut it for about 5 bucks.


----------



## alelover

Mine wasn't flared. Like Merv said. They must have changed it recently. Mine was pretty short. There really wasn't any I could cut off. Did they lengthen it and flare it?


----------



## bass28in

Thanks for all the help everyone!!

So I decided to give my rig a test run before making mods to the stack to do the stack mod (that makes sense...I think). A couple days ago I lubed her up with oil and fired her up. I pushed the tuning plates around a bit and got the temps within 5 degrees side to side!! ...then all the powder coat bubbled up and fell off the top of the SFB 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






. It let off some awful smells too so I built a good hot fire to burn off anything that might make my food taste bad for my first cook. Anyone have this problem? Did you repaint or just rub with oil?

I decided I would cook some food over the weekend before smoking the turkey for Thanksgiving. I brined a 4 pound chicken and rubs downed some ribs on Saturday night. 4 hours on Sunday (today), slow and low with cherry wood. Check out the results...













This was hands down the BEST Q I HAVE EVER MADE!!! Nothing that came out of my Brinkmann vertical water smoker was ever this juicy, tender, or yummy. Any advice on cleaning my CG out and keeping it sanitary? I heated it up to 325-350 after my cook to caramelized grease and fat but it's still nasty in there. I definitely don't want to get family and friends sick on Thanksgiving.

Any advise on minimizing fire maintenance? This is my first time using a Texas style smoker. I'm gearing up for a long smoke on Thanksgiving and I'd rather spend time with my guests than tending my fire. My charcoal basket is 12x14x6. Sunday (today) I filled the basket 2/3 with unlit briquettes and dumped a lit chimney on top. 20 mins later the whole thing was lit up and 2 hours after that I needed to add more fuel. That seems really inefficient.

At one point I added a log of cherry wood on the coals for smoke, but got a lot of heat from it...way more then the charcoal was putting out. The only problem I had with the wood was controlling the heat. If I tightened the damper too soon I got a lot of thick grey smoke (not the thin blue stuff) and the wood would smother out. If I left the damper open I would overheat the cooking chamber. I found myself opening the SFB door so the wood can burn, letting the temp fall to 210, then closing the door and until the temp got to 250, then opening the door again. That cycle went on and on and on and on until the wood charred into coals. Anyone cook with wood instead of charcoal that can help me?

Gotta love SMF!!

Thanks in advance!!


----------



## venture

I generally cook with lump (natural wood) charcoal.  I used to add wood chunks until Todd came up with the Amazen smoker products.  Now I use them instead of wood chunks.

Depending on ambients, I usually tend my fire every 1 1/2 to 2 hours.  That is the price you pay for a charcoal offset unit, but the flavor is worth it in my estimation.

It looks like you are on your way.  You will find that perfect combo soon now!

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## hacksawdwyer

I use a modified gas burner inside my firebox and just throw large blocks of oak in it and it keeps going at a constant temperture. I have boufght three 12lb turkeys to smoke on Thanksgiving. I hope I have enough room...


----------



## JckDanls 07

Bass28in, I would reccomend NOT useing whole logs and just use chunks (fist size or smaller). Sure you have to tend to it a lil more often, a couple of chunks every 30 minutes or so... But far much better. As far as putting enough fuel in to not have to tend it for hours, will never happen, you'll have to add charcoal every hour or so...   GL with your birds


----------



## bass28in

Thanks for all the advise!! I'll keep you updated after TG.

So what does everyone do to clean/sanitize their cooker?

Lang BBQ smokers website has articles and videos on getting the smoker hot (300F) and spraying the inside down with water to create steam. Does anyone do this with their CG? Should I? If not, how do you keep it clean/sanitary?


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Hey guys, I just stumbled onto this thread, and it's been like a ray from Heaven.  I'm a total noob to true BBQ (though I CRUSHED a turkey on Thanksgiving.  Beginner's luck, I guess), and I recently bought the CGSP with SFB and have been occupying lots of my spare time modifying it.  I've been working on building a suitable charcoal basket for Minion cooking.  Yesterday I bought some angle iron and welded a box frame, filling the sides and bottom with 1/16" expando, only to discover that I'd mis-measured the opening to the SFB.  It'd fit like a charm inside the SFB, but it's too big to fit through the opening.  Damn.  But I've got some ideas on how I'm going to get this job done, and it gives me a project to work on next week.  I'll post pics once I've gotten it done successfully.

Here are my questions.

1. Right out of the box, the paint on the top of the SFB bubbled up and flaked off, leaving exposed metal.  It's only a matter of time before it starts to rust, I'd have to think.  Any suggestions on how to handle this?  Is there a suitable paint that will last?  I'd rather not have to keep firing it to burn off contaminants that I don't want in my food every time I have to re-paint due to loss of cheap paint/powder coat.

2. Has anyone else had problems with the grill grates in the cooking chamber warping?  I think it happened to mine when I fired it the first time to burn off all the packing chemicals and other nastiness I don't want in my food.  Has anyone bothered with fabricating their own, or is this more trouble than it's worth?  -Another thing I'm trying to learn in my spare time is how to weld, so that could be a fun project. 

3. What is the best caulk-type material to use to seal up leaks?  Mine leaks right around the smoke stack opening, and some leaks from the lid of the SFB that I'd like to plug up.  Are leaks on the SFB worth worrying about that much?

4. What is the best way to seal the gap between the lid and the lower half?  Mine was leaking smoke so bad from there when I first got it that there wasn't much smoke leaving the stack.  I bought a fireplace rope that I glued into place using the adhesive that came with it, and that's helped considerably.  But the adhesive is garbage.  The sides are staying put, but the front has come off 1.5 smokes after installation.  My thought is to get some 1/2" or 3/4" aluminum angle, bolt it to the lower half, then pack the gap in with fireplace rope, like someone suggested in this thread probably 4 years ago.  I also heard somewhere of loading the lid with fireplace caulk, putting saran wrap over it, then dropping the lid to give a custom fit gasket.  Anybody use this method?

Pics are vastly preferable, if they're available.  It helps a ton to see ideas.  Plus that's usually when I have new ideas of my own.  And if there are pics earlier in this monster of a thread and I just missed them, feel free to point them out rather than going to the effort of re-posting.

Again, thanks to everyone for their input on this thread.  This is an absolute gold mine of info.  Someone should assemble this into a mod manual and sell it to Char-Griller.


----------



## fjcooper

Here is another way to lower the smoke intake about six inches on the Char-Griller Smokin Pro: Use a tin can about the size of a Bush's Bean Can (?) measuring about 3-1/4 inches across the end; remove both ends to create a cylinder; make inward snips on the rim of the can, about 3/4 inches apart, which will create tabs; bend the tabs outward slightly and fit the can over the smoke intake. The cylinder will snap into place when the rim of the can clears the ridge on the smoke intake.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

OK, some of the bigger mods are complete and I thought I'd post a few pics.  What I've done is similar to what people have posted earlier in the thread.

First, my charcoal basket mod.  I wanted to maximize the amount of charcoal I can get in there for Minion Method cooking.  I'm assuming that more is better, particularly since a fair amount of my smoking will be done in cold weather out here in Utah during late fall and winter months (temps in the 20s or so).  After being really frustrated that my really big basket I welded together a few weeks ago wouldn't fit through the SFB door, and that the door was small enough that you can't fit a box through it to maximize the space inside the SFB, I realized that I could fit the floor and walls to a big basket into the SFB individually, and then assemble the basket inside the SFB.  I love it when inspiration strikes.  

The first step was to bolt 2 pieces of 1" flat iron inside the SFB for the basket to sit on.  The ash tray rail wasn't quite enough to hold the whole thing on its own, so I bolted my 3/4" flat iron even with the ash tray rail using stainless steel nuts, bolts and washers.  Then I cut a piece of 1/8" thick expanded metal (appx dimensions of 18"x13", I think.  I can't remember for sure so take your own measurements if you're going to do it this way) and set it on the rails.  Since the size of my basket bottom was kind of big, it went in easiest by pulling out the ash pan and putting it in through the side of the SFB, as opposed to trying to wedge it in through the SFB door.  From there, I cut out pieces for the walls of the basket.  IIRC, I cut 2 18"x8" pieces and 2 13"x8" pieces.  But again, take your own measurements to make sure.  I used tie wire to hold it all together, and assembled it inside the SFB.  So my finished product gives me a basket way bigger than anything you could dream of fitting through the door.  Final dimensions were 17.5" x 12.5" x 8".  I think it will hold a full 16 lb bag of Kingston briquettes if I wanted that much fuel.  Here's pics of the finished product (sorry I didn't take pics of the project as I progressed; I left my camera at work the day I did this):













Last night I installed a baffle and tuning plate rails.  That was a lot easier than I thought.  The mounting rails for the tuning plates went in first.  Borrowing someone else's idea, I used 3/4" wide flat iron for the rail.  I cut two 22.5" pieces, and drilled holes to match the bolts that hold the cooking chamber to the legs.  Then I just slapped the rails on those bolts and held them down with the nuts that came with the smoker.  The only trick was getting the holes drilled in the right place.  I had to bore one out pretty big to compensate for a bad measurement.  That's when I was glad I got 3/4" flat iron so my margin of error was pretty big.  Also, be mindful of how tight you crank the nuts.  If you tighten them real tight it bows the flat iron, which could create issues with your tuning plates fitting properly.













Side note: ^^This pic^^ shows my fiberglass rope I used to try to plug the leaks out of the cooking chamber lid.  It's fiberglass rope that you use for wood burning stoves.  I picked it up at Lowes as well, although I had to talk to 4 or 5 guys before I got someone that knew what the hell I was talking about.  As much as I like seeing college kids working their way through school, it's a little frustrating when you know what you want and all you get is dudes who don't need to shave yet looking at you like you've got corn growing out your ears when you tell them what you're looking for.  Anyway, I used the adhesive that came with the rope and as you can see, it's garbage.  I clamped it down pretty tight when I put it on, and this is after 1 smoke and a dry run or two.  I bought some RTV high temp gasket maker and I'm going to use that re-do this mod.  Plus I think I'm putting it on the lid this time since I think it will be more effective there than on the bottom.  But so far the rope seems to have addressed a substantial leak issue the smoker had out of the box.  (On my first fire I had so much smoke coming out of the lid that not much was going out of the chimney).

Now for the baffle.  I got a stainless steel piano hinge at Lowes, eyeballed how long I wanted it, then used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to hack it down to size, and bolted it on to the wall of the cooking chamber.  Mounting the hinge straight is pretty critical if the baffle is going to swing without smacking into the wall of the cooking chamber, so what I did was to use a few C-clamps to hold it in place, then measured the distance between the top of the piano hinge to the lip of the bottom half of the chamber and made small adjustments until it was 2" dead on all the way across the piano hinge.  Then I drilled the holes into the wall of the cooking chamber with the piano hinge in place to ensure I was drilling in the right spot, and bolted it into place, again using stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts.

The baffle is 16 gauge plate steel I bought at Lowes.  I would have gone for heavier, figuring that heavier steel will help temp stabilization more, but 16 gauge was as the heaviest plates Lowes had.  I did my baffle shaping kind of rough and ready.  Because the cooking chamber is a cylinder, if you want a flush fit, your baffle would have to be rounded to match it.  That's a far cry beyond my metal working abilities, so I just cut it straight.  It's 19" across the top, which fits pretty snug.  It's 16.25" across the bottom, which also fits pretty snug up against the tuning plate rails.  That is to say that there are no right angles on the baffle plate.  It's kind of hard to see in the pics, but the baffle is actually a trapezoid shape (for the geometry impaired: http://www.mathleague.com/help/geometry/polygons.htm#trapezoid), and not a rectangle.  There's a bit of a gap due to my straight cut on the baffle being up against the rounded side of the cooking chamber, but I don't think it's anything to worry about.  













Also, before you go making the angle cuts from the top edge to the bottom, it's a good idea to make a cardboard template to make sure you've got the fit you want, trace your template onto your metal, and then make your cuts.  

From there it was simply a matter of cutting out my tuning plates.  Here's where I could use some input.  My thought was to arrange my tuning plates something like this:







Obviously I'm going to have to do some fine tuning.  But am I leaving too much open space between tuning plates?  I'm almost wondering if I shouldn't cut out one more tuning plate to take up some of the space so the gaps aren't as big, then rig it for reverse flow (which I'll do by running my aluminum dryer hose chimney extension to the SFB side like someone suggested earlier in the thread, rather than go to the trouble of installing a chimney on the SFB side).  Any input on this aspect of things would be appreciated.

Anyway, once I have the chimney extension installed and my fiberglass rope lid seal done, I'll be ready to do dry run it to burn all the nastiness off all the new steel I've put in there, then I'm smoking a turkey on Christmas again.  I've actually had as much fun working on mods as I do smoking stuff, and that's saying something.  Thanks again for everyone's input.  I'm about as happy as a puppy with two peckers over this whole deal.


----------



## wmarkw

Do any of you use a wind break? I need one but not sure what I should use to make one.  Fought the wind a little bit and had to wheel the firebox side of the grill into the garage.  Is the rule of thumb to keep the firebox out of direct wind; so if the wind is going directly into the firebox, I should rotate it?


----------



## bruno994

ThsMormonSmokes...how did your mods work out for you?  I am anxious to find out, especially the baffle and tuning plates.  I am cooking with a Chargriller DUO with the SFB addition.  Obviously I have a bit smaller cooking chamber on mine than the Smokin' Pro, but I have tried a few of the mods mentioned in this thread with some moderate success.  I installed 2 new therms on either side of my grill (Old Country from Academy, both dialed in the 212 degree boiling water test), I have extended the stack to grate level, flipped over the main chamber charcoal tray and purchased a stainless steel grill wok from Academy for my charcoal basket in the firebox to allow me to do the minion method.  Since I have made these mods, my temp from one side to the other has been near dead on.  Dead center on the grill the temp stays about 10 higher than the edges.  But, I have had hell keeping temps up the past few weekends since making these changes.  Seems like I can't give it enough fuel to get it between 225 and 250 (my preferred temps for smoking most everything that I have tried over the years).  I use a combination of charcoal (Kingsford briquettes and mesquite lump along with wood chunks, mostly mesquite with some oak.  I feel like one problem is the capacity of the wok that I am using for a charcoal basket.  I believe I need a larger basket to allow for a longer burn using the minion method and to be able to pile more wood on top of the charcoal to get my temps up.


----------



## raa171

ThsMormonSmoke.....What for RTV did you purchase to create your gasket in lieu of the fiberglass?  I'm having the same trouble but not sure what type of RTV gasket to use.


----------



## venture

I was at Lowes yesterday and checked out their display model of the CGSP.

Indeed, the chimney extension into the pit has been flared out.  Another method will need to be found to attach the extension on the newer models. They managed a change which will serve to make simple things difficult. fjcooper in post #234 offers a method I have seen others use, but you will have to find the right can for that. I have also seen people roll up thin pieces of metal to slightly larger than the inside diameter of the chimney, squeeze it just enough to fit into the chimney and allow it to expand back out to form a seal.

Another change I noted was that the football shaped opening on the pit where the fire box attaches is now attached with bolts rather than being a knock out item for attaching the SFB.  This one I see as an improvement.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## alelover

Knocking that football out was a pain. End up bending the crap out of it if your not careful. Don't ask me how I know.


----------



## alelover

> 3. What is the best caulk-type material to use to seal up leaks?  Mine leaks right around the smoke stack opening, and some leaks from the lid of the SFB that I'd like to plug up.  Are leaks on the SFB worth worrying about that much?


I used this and it's still sealing after over a year. Still holding my stove rope on too.


----------



## venture

You got that right, Scott.  I did mine very carefully and it was a painful process, but it worked without making it look like a junk yard candidate.

How nice it must be to remove some bolts and nuts and lift the dang thing out of there!

The chimney deal?  GRRRR!

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Venture said:


> I was at Lowes yesterday and checked out their display model of the CGSP.
> 
> Indeed, the chimney extension into the pit has been flared out.  Another method will need to be found to attach the extension on the newer models. They managed a change which will serve to make simple things difficult. fjcooper in post #234 offers a method I have seen others use, but you will have to find the right can for that. I have also seen people roll up thin pieces of metal to slightly larger than the inside diameter of the chimney, squeeze it just enough to fit into the chimney and allow it to expand back out to form a seal.


All I did was grab a set of channel locks and bend on the flange to straighten it out until I could fit my dryer hose over it.  Once I got the hose seated, I bound the hose to the chimney with tie wire to make sure it stays put.  It was only slightly less redneck than doing it with duct tape, but I'm not trying to impress anyone.  It got the job done.


----------



## venture

Hey!  I didn't always live in California?

Rednecks are my kind of people!

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## jasot217

Gentleman, 

Santa brought me my Char Griller Duo, with a firebox. I have been using a smoke hollow gas smoker, so this wood smoking is a new thing. I am having a few issues. 

1. I have to prop open the firebox door to sustain a fire. My vents are open on both ends, all the way, and my chimney is open. What is causing this? My thought is maybe I am using too large of logs, as they are about as long as the firebox. 

2. I can't maintain the inside temp where I want it. It's getting too hot. I want to keep it around 230-250 F, it's all I can do to get it to 240, most of the time it wants to climb to 260, 280, 300.

3. Please explain what the dryer hose does. I thought one wanted the whole chamber filled with smoke, seems like this would keep it under the rack, then draw it out before it's filled with smoke. 

any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. 

thanks

jason


----------



## venture

Hi Jason!

I don't have the Duo, but I do have a Char Griller Pro.

These units are not designed to use logs or sticks.  You would be better off with "lump charcoal" and knuckle sized chunks of wood.

The dryer vent deal is to keep the smoke from going to the top of the unit without properly smoking the meat.  On the new CG units the chimney is flared inside the pit, so you may have to deal with that in order to extend the chimney down to the grate.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## tom c

jasot217 said:


> Gentleman,
> 
> Santa brought me my Char Griller Duo, with a firebox. I have been using a smoke hollow gas smoker, so this wood smoking is a new thing. I am having a few issues.
> 
> 1. I have to prop open the firebox door to sustain a fire. My vents are open on both ends, all the way, and my chimney is open. What is causing this? My thought is maybe I am using too large of logs, as they are about as long as the firebox.  This unit works better with charcoal and some lumps of wood.
> 
> 2. I can't maintain the inside temp where I want it. It's getting too hot. I want to keep it around 230-250 F, it's all I can do to get it to 240, most of the time it wants to climb to 260, 280, 300. Check out this post on  the Minion Method for charcoal smoker.  http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/85924/the-minion-method-explained-w-tutorial
> 
> 3. Please explain what the dryer hose does. I thought one wanted the whole chamber filled with smoke, seems like this would keep it under the rack, then draw it out before it's filled with smoke.  The dryer hose keep the heat and smoke in, with out it the smoke and heat raises to the top of the smoker and out the stack.It also help even the temp though out the cooking chamber.
> 
> any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> thanks
> 
> jason


----------



## cliffcarter

jasot217 said:


> Gentleman,
> 
> Santa brought me my Char Griller Duo, with a firebox. I have been using a smoke hollow gas smoker, so this wood smoking is a new thing. I am having a few issues.
> 
> 1. I have to prop open the firebox door to sustain a fire. My vents are open on both ends, all the way, and my chimney is open. What is causing this? My thought is maybe I am using too large of logs, as they are about as long as the firebox.
> 
> 2. I can't maintain the inside temp where I want it. It's getting too hot. I want to keep it around 230-250 F, it's all I can do to get it to 240, most of the time it wants to climb to 260, 280, 300.
> 
> 3. Please explain what the dryer hose does. I thought one wanted the whole chamber filled with smoke, seems like this would keep it under the rack, then draw it out before it's filled with smoke.
> 
> any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> thanks
> 
> jason


I believe you are correct, I use sticks of wood in my CharGriller but keep them about 9" long by about 3" thick.

I start a fire with lump charcoal to get up to temp and add a stick or two of wood when the temp starts falling because the lump is being depleted.

Note the 2 unburned sticks at the left of the SFB, I keep 1 or 2 in the SFB to preheat, it helps them catch quicker and maintain  the small hot fire you need.

I can keep my temps between 225° and 260° using wood.


----------



## jasot217

Thanks for the quick replies. SO, scrap the "full wood' method, and I will switch to trying lump charcoal as a base, adding wood chunks as needed. From the link posted about the minion method, I think this will address both issues of getting too hot and keeping good heat source going. 

Now, I am not questioning the Mods here, I just want to understand WHY they work.

1. The dryer vent hose- "[color= rgb(255, 0, 0)]The dryer hose keep the heat and smoke in, with out it the smoke and heat raises to the top of the smoker and out the stack.It also help even the temp though out the cooking chamber [/color]I don't understand this. Without the hose, isn't the chamber getting filled with smoke? It seems (in my limited smoking knowledge) that the hose would bypass filling the whole chamber, and it would go into the chamber, and go directly to the hose and out, thus, not smoking the food as well. Obviously, this isn't the case, as there are so many good reviews about it. What is it that I don't know about smoke that makes this work?

2. "reverse flow"- what does this mean? I see some put a steel plate below the grate, that is open at the far end. letting the smoke in. I understand this controls the temps better. If used with the hose, wouldn't the smoke go directly out of the hose, thus not getting to the meat? Again, i probably don't understand how smoke works. 

3. How does a shaker basket work better? How does this keep the fire from suffocating under the ashes? It seems it would still hold the ashes in it, thus causing the fire to go out, as the openings seem pretty small. 

thank you for all your help!


----------



## alelover

You need to raise up the fire. If air can't get under it it won't burn well.


----------



## cliffcarter

jasot217 said:


> Thanks for the quick replies. SO, scrap the "full wood' method, and I will switch to trying lump charcoal as a base, adding wood chunks as needed. From the link posted about the minion method, I think this will address both issues of getting too hot and keeping good heat source going.
> 
> Now, I am not questioning the Mods here, I just want to understand WHY they work.
> 
> 1. The dryer vent hose- "The dryer hose keep the heat and smoke in, with out it the smoke and heat raises to the top of the smoker and out the stack.It also help even the temp though out the cooking chamber I don't understand this. Without the hose, isn't the chamber getting filled with smoke? It seems (in my limited smoking knowledge) that the hose would bypass filling the whole chamber, and it would go into the chamber, and go directly to the hose and out, thus, not smoking the food as well. Obviously, this isn't the case, as there are so many good reviews about it. What is it that I don't know about smoke that makes this work?
> 
> 2. "reverse flow"- what does this mean? I see some put a steel plate below the grate, that is open at the far end. letting the smoke in. I understand this controls the temps better. If used with the hose, wouldn't the smoke go directly out of the hose, thus not getting to the meat? Again, i probably don't understand how smoke works.
> 
> 3. How does a shaker basket work better? How does this keep the fire from suffocating under the ashes? It seems it would still hold the ashes in it, thus causing the fire to go out, as the openings seem pretty small.
> 
> thank you for all your help!


First of all, as I posted above, you do not have to scrap your full wood method, I use the charcoal as a way to start the wood fire. If you are using full size splits of wood(the size you would put in a woodstove) then just cut some off. As a stick burner the CG does just fine.

Second the Chargriller works just fine out of the box with no mods IMHO, you just have to be willing to tend the fire. Most of the mods in this thread were made with the intent of turning this cooker into a "set it and forget it" that would require minimal tending and allow for more sleep on overnight cooks or "multitasking" during the day and to get more even heat across the length of the cooking chamber. IMHO if you seal up the air leaks and gasket the hood on the cooking chamber you will have done enough. I must admit that the many finished projects that are posted on this thread are very impressive.

The purpose of the dryer vent mod is to regulate the heat flow, in theory keeping it low will direct more heat closer to the cooking grate. If you do this mod you should also do the baffle mod at the cooking chamber- SFB connection which directs the heat more in the direction of the vent stack. IMHO the dryer vent should not extend to grate level but 4-6 inches above it for proper air flow, but then again I haven't done any of it so...


----------



## venture

As noted, the dryer vent also helps to even temps across the grill.  With about $30 in mods, my unit runs within 5 to 10 degrees side to side at normal smoking temps. The smoke and heat get distributed more evenly rather than rising to the top and out the chimney.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## jasot217

Thank you to all for the help. I picked up some lump charcoal today and a charcoal chimney, plan to do a dry run tomorrow with my basket and add sticks of wood as needed. Hope I have  a much better time controlling temps. Sounds like a great project to try while watching the NFL playoff games.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Venture said:


> As noted, the dryer vent also helps to even temps across the grill.  With about $30 in mods, my unit runs within 5 to 10 degrees side to side at normal smoking temps. The smoke and heat get distributed more evenly rather than rising to the top and out the chimney.
> 
> Good luck and good smoking.




Did you do the baffle and tuning plate mods?  When I fired mine up for a seasoning run I got the plates dialed in and held temps within about 10 degrees side to side.  But when I've put meat on the grill, it's been tougher to manage.  Part of it has probably been wind, as you pointed out earlier.  Low ambient temps influence it too, I imagine.  But it's been tough to keep temps consistent across the grate while cooking so far.

Also, I had some inspiration for my next mod today while walking through Home Depot.  The lid to my SFB has a pretty sloppy fit and I lose a lot of heat and smoke around the opening.  So I'm gonna put a gate latch on my SFB to hold the lid down tight.  It's snowing/raining here today, so it's not going to happen this weekend.  I'll post pics when I do it.  I think it should work. 

Do you think RTV high temp gasket maker will hold up to the temps from the SFB if I use it to make a custom gasket to the SFB lid?

*Edit* I just noticed in Alelover's photo above that he's used it to seal the gap between the SFB and cooking chamber.  If it handles the heat there, it should handle the heat around the lid.


----------



## sprky

I don't think anyone answered your question on what a reverse flow is, so I will, do my best. A reverse flow is a smoker where there is a plate installed below grate level, and the stack is installed on the same side as the fire box. The heat and smoke must travel across the smoker below the plate then back across the smoker above the plate in the other direction and out threw the stack.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

alelover said:


>


So are the pieces of metal in your basket to allow it to burn in a maze kind of like the AMNS does to give you longer burn time?  If that's why they're in there, are they heavy enough to keep the burn from jumping across and not following your maze? 

I've actually been thinking about putting another piece of expanded metal inside my basket to cordon off about 1/4 of the volume of the basket.  That way I have it permanently set for side-to-side minion cooking.


----------



## venture

First, I did no baffle and tuning plates.  Well not really?

I followed Dutch's lead and put a small pan of water next to where the firebox enters the pit.







The beer can should give you an idea of the size. This one is obviously well used. They will last several smokes if handled carefully.  Disposables available at your local dollar store.

I do use drip pans, also disposable aluminum from the dollar store.  I have found that careful arrangement of the drip pans keep the bottom of my smoker clean and they do provide a baffle effect.  Monitoring with two wired therms will get my temps even from side to side.

Getting your new unit tuned in is half the fun.  That is where the learning curve is.  If I ever stop learning, this stuff will be work and no fun any more!

Stick with it you will get there!  Once you have your unit tuned in, you will learn how it works at different times of the year, and things get a lot easier.  And more boring. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## jasot217

Fellow Smokers!

I am a Minion Method believer! I picked up some baskets for $2 at Lowe's (on clearance). I heated my lump charcoal in the chimeny (clearance at Academy), Then dumped it in the middle between the two baskets. I didn't let the charcoal get white enough before I dumped it. I committed a premature dump. The Temp issue was a non issue. once it got warm, it stayed between 230-240F. talk about set it and forget it! Occasional stoking and a few wood sticks added as needed. Can't wait to smoke some food with this method!

My premature dumping of the charcoal. Baskets in the top left and bottom right. 







The top left basket is beginning to turn white after about an hour. I added a wood stick for the heck of it. 






	

		
			
		

		
	
fi

The end result. 







e

The best part? Nice steady temp. Not fighting it like I did with all wood. 







Thank you to all the fellow smokers who guided me to this point!!!!


----------



## alelover

I got rid of the maze. I don't think it made a difference. I changed the bottom to expanded metal for better air flow as well.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Jasot217, solid find on the boxes at Lowes.  I don't want to talk about what I spent on the sheet of expanded metal I bought to build my charcoal basket.    

Here's one to put on your radar because you're going to need to address it soon.  The charcoal grate that comes with the smoker is crap.  It will be warped beyond recognition soon.  I've been using expanded metal (several pics in post #235 on page 12, this thread).  It's worked well.

And I just noticed in your pics that you haven't punched out the football shape between the cooking chamber and SFB.  I don't know how this will impact things.  I guess if you're getting consistent temps, you're not doing anything horribly wrong.  But it does seem like I read somewhere that having inadequate flow from SFB to cooking chamber can produce problems.  Anyone else that knows this stuff better have any input?

Also, to address the problem of the paint and primer burning off the SFB and to prevent rust, I've been hitting it with a layer or two of vegetable oil while it's at temp.  I figure if it works to season and protect my dutch ovens, it should work here as well.  Using a spray can is best since one time I did this my SFB was apparently above the flashpoint of canola oil.  My brother thought that was pretty funny.  If I would have been brushing it on by hand, it could have been a problem.  I'm not sure if this is the best solution so if someone else has a better one, I'm interested.


----------



## alelover

You need to knock out the football. You will get better airflow and use a whole lot less fuel.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Sorry, I just noticed these two posts.
 


bruno994 said:


> ThsMormonSmokes...how did your mods work out for you?  I am anxious to find out, especially the baffle and tuning plates.  I am cooking with a Chargriller DUO with the SFB addition.  Obviously I have a bit smaller cooking chamber on mine than the Smokin' Pro, but I have tried a few of the mods mentioned in this thread with some moderate success.  I installed 2 new therms on either side of my grill (Old Country from Academy, both dialed in the 212 degree boiling water test), I have extended the stack to grate level, flipped over the main chamber charcoal tray and purchased a stainless steel grill wok from Academy for my charcoal basket in the firebox to allow me to do the minion method.  Since I have made these mods, my temp from one side to the other has been near dead on.  Dead center on the grill the temp stays about 10 higher than the edges.  But, I have had hell keeping temps up the past few weekends since making these changes.  Seems like I can't give it enough fuel to get it between 225 and 250 (my preferred temps for smoking most everything that I have tried over the years).  I use a combination of charcoal (Kingsford briquettes and mesquite lump along with wood chunks, mostly mesquite with some oak.  I feel like one problem is the capacity of the wok that I am using for a charcoal basket.  I believe I need a larger basket to allow for a longer burn using the minion method and to be able to pile more wood on top of the charcoal to get my temps up.


I've been happy with the mods.  My two smokes since the mods have both been in cold weather (never warmer than 35 ambient temp).  Some breeze as well.  The walls of the smoker are pretty thin, so I think it doesn't take a lot of wind to pull the heat right out of it.  I'm still working on a way to shield it from the wind.  On calm days, I can usually use the tuning plates and dial it down to have the temps within 10 degrees of each other across the grill.  But when it's breezy, it's not uncommon to see temps pretty inconsistent.  I'm curious to see how it will perform in warmer temps.

If you're having trouble keeping temps up, I bet a larger charcoal basket will help a ton, especially if you're in colder temps.  My last smoke was in cold, breezy weather.  I think it was around 30 or lower for most of that smoke.  I filled my basket almost all the way full, using a mix of lump and briquettes and wood chunks scattered through the pile.  I got an easy 6 hours out of it, and had another 1, maybe 2 hours left if I needed them.  The one thing you have to be mindful of is that with so much fuel in the SFB waiting to burn (I use the Minion Method as well), you've got to really cut back on airflow or you're going to have a meltdown on your hands soon.  

What does your wok look like?  In addition to capacity, you might have an airflow problem too if it's solid.  I'm still very much a newbie to smoking, but I'm no stranger to fires in stoves.  You've got to have airflow below them and a place for the ashes to go to avoid stifling out your fire.  This could be part of your problem too, depending on what your wok looks like.
 


raa171 said:


> ThsMormonSmoke.....What for RTV did you purchase to create your gasket in lieu of the fiberglass?  I'm having the same trouble but not sure what type of RTV gasket to use.


http://assets.smokingmeatforums.com/8/85/859c3480_Permatex_High_Temp_RTV_Silicone.jpeg

I used this to hold the fiberglass rope on.  I just pushed a thin bead, evened it out with my finger then held the rope on with clamps until it had cured.  The gap is big enough that I don't think I could use this stuff to make a custom gasket.  I also moved it from the bottom to the lid of the cooking chamber.  So far it's holding up just fine.  Way better than the adhesive that came with the rope.

I've also used it to seal off the seams inside the cooking chamber lid and around the smokestack.  So far it seems to be working like a champ.


----------



## jasot217

Morman smokes,
Thanks for the heads up on my assembly oversight. I will attempt to remove this week. Hopefully not too much disassembly will be needed.
Thanks
Jason


----------



## jasot217

I may be over thinking this, but does it matter was size the diamonds are in the expanded metal and what grade or size it is? Alos' use stainless stee?


----------



## alelover

Big enough so when you shake it all the ashes go down.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

alelover said:


> Big enough so when you shake it all the ashes go down.


^^This.^^

It might be hard to find stainless expanded metal, and if you do it is sure to be expensive.  I don't see any reason to spend money that you don't have to spend.  Just go with regular old steel.  Look for it at Lowes and Home Depot where they keep all their metal.  They usually package it in cardboard, so it winds up looking like an air filter for a home furnace.  And don't let an employee tell you they don't have it without looking first.  Every kid I've asked for expanded metal at HD or Lowes didn't know what it was and told me they didn't have it when they really did.

Most importantly, wear gloves when you're handling it.  Unless you like stitches.  It'll cut you if you look at it wrong.


----------



## alelover

I had a Lowe's guy say the same thing. "Aww shucks. We don't carry that, Sir." The Lowe's up the road did though.


----------



## venture

Earlier in this post, you will find pics where guys used the Char Broil shaker basket, as I did.  Less than $20. I got mine at Lowes, but they are available on the net. Remove the handle and cut off the loops.  Fits my box perfectly.  I cut two pieces of 7/16 rolled steel rod to fit the racks in the fire box.  Run them through the top of the basket on each side and the unit sits on the rails with plenty of space below for ashes to collect.














Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## jasot217

Did a Boston Butt over the weekend (you can check out my pics). I smoked from 11 pm to 4 pm the next day (did some chicken thighs also). It was windy sat. night 10 - 15 mph, temps around 30-35ish. I went through a bag of apple chunks and 3/4 of pecan (3/4 cu. ft. is the size), and about 9 lbs. of charcoal (lump and Stubbs briquettes). Added some small logs of hickory along the way (I think about 4). Is this normal for this smoker? This seems like a lot of fuel. I tried to keep it between 220-240. My father in law had a old refrigerator shelf, I modified it to fit my fire box, so it is up a lot higher than the "stock" grate that comes with it.


----------



## bruno994

Maybe, but in those temps and with the thin walled chambers of the Chargriller, it's probably about right.  Mine is a fuel hog as well.  I smoked a 9.5 # pork shoulder this past Saturday night,  put it on about 6 PM and smoked until 8 AM Sunday.  Used 16# of Kingsford, a few pounds of lump mixed in along with about 6-8 split small logs of mesquite.  Outside temps were between 45-55 degrees, with a light breeze.  This is nornal for a long smoke with me.  I have upgraded my charcoal basket from a stainless wok to an expanded metal box (12 x 12  x 6), it works much better than the wok due to about twice the capacity.  I fill it about halfway full of unlit and then pour a chimney full of lit on top.  Once they get going good, I start feeding my mesquite logs to the fire, about once an hour or so.


----------



## venture

I would say that is about right, especially in those temps.

It does sound like quite a bit of smoke tho.  Personal preference item.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## alvasin

Very large grilling area. You could smoke a whole cow. I smoked a Butt, Brisket, and 2 Chickens the first time out and only used half the grilling surface. The temp was a little hard to control, the main area was hard to get up to the temp I wanted but made a few adjustments and got it to where I wanted it. I suggest filling all the extra holes for attachments that are not used with nuts and bolts to make controlling the Temp easier. Clean up was easy and fast. The meat itself was very tender and tasty and after a few more times I will have worked all the kinks out and expect the meat will be just the way I want it. It was really close the very first time. Used a lot of wood chips due to the extreme heat in the firebox and would advise large chunks of wood. All in all a great purchase for my needs. The 70 people at my office that I treated had no complaints!


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## stratuslowrider

Mine had the flared lip on the exhaust stack as well. What i did was bought a piece of aluminum flashing in the vent area at lowes. I then cut it lengthwise and wrapped it around the pipe and clamped it with a hose clamp. As i tightened the clamp it formed a tight seal. Then i was able to bend it to shap and was able to force the dryer vent over the aluminum, then i clamped that with another hose clamp.  I need to find the pics i took when i did this mod. The aluminum piece was only a couple of bucks.


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## thsmormonsmokes

Stratuslowrider said:


> Mine had the flared lip on the exhaust stack as well. What i did was bought a piece of aluminum flashing in the vent area at lowes. I then cut it lengthwise and wrapped it around the pipe and clamped it with a hose clamp. As i tightened the clamp it formed a tight seal. Then i was able to bend it to shap and was able to force the dryer vent over the aluminum, then i clamped that with another hose clamp. I need to find the pics i took when i did this mod. The aluminum piece was only a couple of bucks.


Solid mod idea.  A bit more elegant than my idea of using channel locks, swearing at it a bit and bending the flare back to where the hose will fit over it.  But I'd be cautious about using hose clamps without burning them first.  I think they're typically galvanized.


----------



## frodoboy

Okay first time post here. I have the Grillin' Pro 3000, not the Smokin Pro but maybe someone can help. I've done many mods to the smoker and the grill. I made an expanded steel charcoal box and sealed around the entire door with stove rope. I made a baffle that connects to the right side of the main chamber angled down to about 4 inches under the grill. I had to do this to clear the burners. Then I made several 4 inch baffles to sit on a couple of rails like in many of the pictures. Then I put gasket material all around the bbq. A smaller one on the front and a larger rope one around the sides and back. There is still a little bit of smoke coming out the sides but none from the front or back. Then I put the 3 inch ducting from the left-most chimney to the front right about 1 inch from the grill, secured with a wingnut. I noticed that the firebox baffle had a small (about 1") gap on each side at the top so, rather than making another one, I just put a thick layer of aluminum foil over the gaps to seal it. I placed a temperature probe in the center of the right side grates and one in the center of the left side grates. During the testing, I placed a pan of water on the furthest right side of the grill. Then I adjusted the baffles to regulate the heat across the grates. I had to push all 3 of them to the right to seal off any opening from the firebox baffle and that left about a 4" opening on the left side. When the firebox came to full heat and things started to level out, I was getting 234 on the left side and 235 on the right! Seemed pretty ideal and this could be maintained for several hours.

Then I put the meat on. Just a simple test with some pork chops I had. I used my special rub and put them on the grill. I brought the heat back up to around 225 but now I noticed that no matter what I did, the right side of the grill was much hotter than the left (by about 20 degrees)! I made sure the sensor wasn't too close to the meat but I'll be damned if I could never get that 234 and 235 again. It was more like 245 on the firebox side and 225 on the left grill side. No matter what I tried, I could never get them close again. So I guess my question is: How is this possible? Could it be that the meat just made that side of the grill colder? I can't imagine that could be since the pork chops were small. My baffles were still all in place and the seals were pretty tight. Blue smoke was pouring out of the chimney so the air flow was good but the firebox side just stayed 20 degrees hotter when food was on the left side. When the chops were done in a couple of hours, I took them off and closed the damper. Hours later now, there are still coals burning hot in the firebox and the thermometer I installed on the lid still sits at around 500 degrees. The left side of the grill can be touched with my hand but the left side is still pretty hot. I can really feel the difference in heat from one side to the other now.

Why would this change from perfect temps for hours to 20 degree differences when not a lot of meat was added? The pork chops by the way came out killer but I spent a lot of time doing these mods and want it perfect for smoking. Is this grill (propane) just not capable of smoking like the Smokin Pro? One thing I didn't do is take out flame shields. Maybe I should have done that on the left side but I don't think that would make any difference.  Once it cools off, I will include some pictures of my mods. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## venture

I can't help you with gas.  I use charcoal.

One thing I have noticed is that the temps across the grate will be much different based upon the average temp in the smoker.  Hard to explain and make it make sense?  At a 250 average temp, the temp difference from right to left will be higher or lower than when the average temp is 200 or 210.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## frodoboy

Thanks for your reply. The average temp is about in the middle according to the gauge which is actually pretty accurate for an OEM. I wonder if a gas grill with more little holes here and there would cause more problems. I sealed the bottom with foil and the holes for the spit. Do most of the grills do this, even Smokin Pro's?? I guess I can get used to it. It's just that it was so damn accurate without any meat in it and then it was off 20 degrees with meat. Maybe that is no big deal unless I am going to cook a lot of meat which I don't??


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## venture

Mine usually runs at about a 10 degree differential depending on the average temp.

I don't think 10 or even maybe 20 degrees will kill you as long as you know what is going on in there?  On big smokes, I often put meat at different places on the grate depending on that differential.

Hang in there, you will get it down, and you will be rewarded for your patience and diligence!

Good luck and good smoking.


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## barneypoo69

Sorry I haven't posted here in a long time. I have the Char-Griller Super-pro w/side fire box. To address the leak of heat/smoke from the back where the top meats the bottom (a good gap in places). I use a piece of 3/8 rope gasket 28" long. I tear of a piece of foil 28.5" long. I lay the rope on the 28.5" edge of foil & roll it----more like try to roll it about 3 or 4 rolls. Don't worry of wadded-up in areas. I then hang the roll off the back of the bottom chamber, with the remaing foil on the inside of the bottom chamber,, so it level with it (so when the top will mash the "roll" when closed) and form the remaining foil along the lip where the grates sit & form  the rest on the inside of the bottom chamber. The grates hold this in place & you can open/close all you want. The foil keeps the rope clean so ypou can re-use the rope over & over...just rplace the foil if you think its too dirty.......

Now I'm going to read through this thread again.....and try more experiments this coming year ! love this forum.


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## frodoboy

Thanks for the tip! I will try that. I glued some flat heat rope onto the lid on the sides and back and it seems to be holding. I used a couple of bolts and washers to hold it in place. It was not thick enough though and a little smoke still gets through. I did order the thicker rope like you use and was going to try to glue it on as well. I like the foil idea. I will try that first. You didn't mention if you also tried to seal the sides. I get a lot of smoke escaping from the sides. I carefully knocked them in a bit with a 2x4 and a hammer and now have less leakage there. I'm going to try to put the thicker rope on the sides and see if that seals them once and for all. If it works, I may put a few bolts and washers in here and there to hold it up. I'll post here if it works.


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## signal 20

Venture said:


> Earlier in this post, you will find pics where guys used the Char Broil shaker basket, as I did.  Less than $20. I got mine at Lowes, but they are available on the net. Remove the handle and cut off the loops.  Fits my box perfectly.  I cut two pieces of 7/16 rolled steel rod to fit the racks in the fire box.  Run them through the top of the basket on each side and the unit sits on the rails with plenty of space below for ashes to collect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Good luck and good smoking.


I have been searching for this basket both at Lowes and online....So far it seems that its either discontinued or Char Broil doesnt make it anymore....If you know where to buy it online please help a brother out


----------



## venture

Probably here:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_188821-451-4984108_0_?productId=1053895&Ntt=grill

Try ordering online for in store pick up.

There is a similar looking one at Amazon.com, but I couldn't guarantee the size.  I am going to order a spare in case they are discontinuing them.  Mine looks like it might last about three more years.

Good luck and good smoking.


----------



## venture

After some more digging, things don't look good on the Char-Broil shaker basket.  Lowes is not stocking it and it appears it may have been discontinued.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/86437/lowes-has-charbroil-shaker-basket-on-clearance

I don't see it on the Char Broil site either.  I will be calling Char Broil to see if I can verify as I was going to buy a spare for this very reason.

The one on Amazon.com looks very similar, but no way to tell for sure how it would work. Also, the handle looks different and they say it is non-stick where the Char Broil was stainless steel.

I guess we are back to square one?

Good luck and good smoking.


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## chefjustinkent

This is what I use for my charcoal basket.  It works really well!  The handles actually rest nicely in there.







http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=17138006&RN=2523&


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## dustem88

I hav same char griller got all kinds of ideas from this great forum made mine into a reverse flow u r not goin to get it air tight or leak proof.This is wat i used on mine at the right price go to scrap yards & recycling centers ask if they have any old ovens ask if u can get the door gasket out, filled rear and side gaps w/ these there r two kinds some have snap pins other has gasket w/flap get both if $ is right got mine free bring some tools screw & star drivers easy. I pop riveted the one that has flap for sides!Hope this helps some


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## elkslayer

Hey folks long time reader first time poster.  I have been watching this thread with keen interest for quite some time and figured out how to mod my Char Griller Smoker Pro that I have had for nearly eight  years.  I have done a rebuild and made a few mods and keep the temps at a nice 200-225 pretty consistently on all areas of the grill.  I Incorporated many of the ideas expressed here, and was surprised or I may have missed it as this thread is quite large.  

The new side box I bought to replace my old one comes with two cast iron grill plates that when fit to the width of the smoke box and secured with two of the 3/4 " bolts from the kit, it creates one heck of an improvement.  Even better it fits right on the two bolts at the end of the smoker and the ash pan guide rails for a level shelf that is solid as a rock.







	

		
			
		

		
	
    

Here is a shot of it outside the smoke box:







I then created a 12x12x6 Charcoal basket from someone I read on this thread or another not sure.  I went to Home Depot and got the 24X24 expanded metal 3/4" diamond pattern.  Do not go to the masonry section for this as the will look at you cross eyed and try to sell you stucco supplies.  This piece is specifically in the area where screws and fasteners are.  There is generally a small sheet metal and steel section, and it is hidden in here.  

I cut it by measuring 6" from the corners both directions and then intersecting the lines making a 6"x6" square on each corner.  I used a pair of aviation snips and cut the squares out.  I then folded and secured the sides with rebar ties.  Fits perfectly in the grill and only cost me $20 bucks for metal and a couple of bucks for the ties.  I then filed down the sharp edges to smooth, and thirty minutes later I had a charcoal basket:







I will give the basket a try using the minion method this weekend on a slow smoke of brisket and ribs. I will let you know how it turns out.  Again thanks for all the insights to modding this smoker and making it very consistent.  I hope I was able to add something that someone can use in the future.


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## smokingeo

What an amazing and helpful thread, thanks to all who have posted their mods, I have enough information now to begin my own. I'll post pics when done.


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## austinsmoke

Hawgheaven - I wanted to thank you for the PDF and step by step on the Pro 830 Mods....I did everyone of them! Now I like this idea to remove the stock lid temp guage...cover it with PIG! With a water pan I can hold temps with only 5-8 degree differential side to side

I have been cookin up some real good stuff...

Tom


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## heelskins

couldn't they be used without bolting them together?


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## austinsmoke

Hey Elkslayer - How is the Home Depot Chargoal basket working out?? With you new cast iron grid base, does it allow you to empty the ash pan drawred on long smokes? I find it hard to hold 250 temps for very long. 200-225, not much problem.

I might go to ohome depot today and try this if you tell me it holds up..

Thanks

Tom


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## stringer

Hi i finally got my char-griller smokin' pro. I have all the pieces out but have not assembled. I plan on coating the metal with some rustoleum high heat ultra, coating all wood with exterior spar varnish clear gloss, installing two river country adjustable smoker thermometers, and creating a baffle out of sheet metal. Since I have some 16" and 18" CERAMIC floor tile laying around and a tile saw, do you think i could make the tuning plates with that? Would really like opinions on this, not sure if its a great idea, or a recipe for disaster at this point. Please advise. Thanks!!

ps: still looking for a smoker basket solution. picked up some 12"x24" 18guage expanded steel from lowes but not sure if i should use it. Looks a little small to me.


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## stringer

btttcotc


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## kcphilaflyer

youll need the 24x24 piece to make to work, at least for my 16" firebox it worked perfect.


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## elkslayer

It does.  I can pull it out and empy with no isses on long smokes.


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## rookwv

I was wondering something....if you have the stack hose down to the grate level, could you put a thermometer in the top of the stack for a close estimate of grate level temps?

I made a small charcoal basket, some long bolts hold it up out of the ashes and put some fireplace rope around the lid, used some high temp silicone to make it stick. 













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## smokingbrodes7

I am new to this Forum and have a char-griller pro.  All I have ever done was turn the charcoal rack that is inside the smoker upside down so that the grate is facing the bottom of the smoker and put a brick on the far left side to hold it tight to the firebox.  I have never had any trouble with heat or fuel consumption.  I normally BBQ on my smoker 4 times a week and those are normally 10hrs or more.  Just a thought for you.


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## webdaddy

Howdy fellow smoking addicts! I’m a long time lurker, first time poster.

I purchased my Duo a couple of weeks back. I’m having issues keeping the temperature down around 225-250 as it seems to want to hover around 300. I’m using the ET-73 Maverick RediChek remote wireless smoker thermometer set at grill level rather than the idiot gauge on the lid, so I’m fairly confident the temperature is accurate.

So I’m hoping the mods I’m doing (Lid seal, using the Minion method, etc.) will allow better control of the air flow and temp. I've gathered all my components (Based on some of the ideas I've seen here) and started on the project today.

Similar to what SmokingBrodes I also used the charcoal pan. I took the legs that came with the firebox, slid them over the charcoal rack pan and flipped it upside down and placed in the smoker. It is the perfect height to cover the firebox opening! I plan to use my drill press to drill holes, small to large, right to left, across the surface to allow an even distribution of heat.

On the fire basket (Shaker Basket), there is one on Amazon that looks exactly like the one Lowes used to carry. While it’s $28, I figure it’s worth it to save the time of building one from scratch.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OKHLJE/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00  

_Thanks for all the great ideas!   I'll post pictures when I'm finished. _


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## arkashby

What abut somthing like a grilling wok as a charcoal basket ?













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__ arkashby
__ Jul 29, 2012


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## rookwv

I think a few people have used the wok but have found out that the holes aren't big enough to allow the ash to fall through well enough.


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## webdaddy

Completed the mods and everything worked perfect!

I made the channels from angle aluminum for installation on the right and left side of the tub and ran stove gasket rope into it (With high temp gasket maker to hold it in place). As a plus, I was able to use the additional nuts/bolts I had when removing the side vent covers on the tub and firebox to mount the channel. I used high temp gasket maker to place a length of rope on the inside lip on the lid and on the back-outside of the tub.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I used the charcoal pan and slid the legs from the firebox over it and placed inside tub for a perfect fit. Finally I used a swivel duct elbow to lower the smoke level.

Using the shaker basket and the minion method, I was running temperatures of 230-250, depending on how much I had the vents open, for 4-5 hours!

Parts list:

Permatex High Temp RTV Silicone - #81409 (26C)
Rutland ¼” – 5/16” x 84” Stove Gasket Rope - #91N (For the front and back seals)
Rutland 5/8" X 60" Stove Gasket Rope - #92 (For the channels)
Home Depot Angle Aluminum 1/16” thick ¾” x ½” x 36 - #43650 Upper Channel (Seal) (Needed 2 as HD was out of 48”)
Home Depot Angle Aluminum 1/16” thick ¾” x ¾” x 48 - #43240 Lower Channel (Mount)
Home Depot #8-32 x 3/8” Round Head nuts/bolts - #27611 (For mounting channel together)
3” duct angle adaptor. (Forgot to get part #)













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## coyote-1

After a couple years, I have mostly given up on using the charcoal basket. It's a great idea in theory. But I don't do too many overnight smokes and end up just tossing logs of maple or cherry or oak or whatever in after the fire gets going, so it has become redundant. That said, I definitely will use it again this autumn for a smoked butt.

The biggest issue I have with the CGSP is the wheels. The set that came with the unit broke, the set I bought to replace them also broke. Next set will have steel rims.  lol


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## webdaddy

The mobilty is definitely an issue I'm going to fix sooner or later. This unit is a big donkey and it needs four wheels rather than the two it came with.


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## coyote-1

Gotta say, I wish the CGSP had a Weber type coating. The finish on the metal dictates that it not be left out in the weather, but the wheels don't hold up.

Of course you can't expect everything for $169.


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## races pig

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__ races pig
__ Aug 1, 2012





     Mine is a gas grill with a fire box and the only mod I did was wrap tin foil around the vents I cheat and use the gas very little to get the temp back up when I open the hood. and as you can see it I had to shovel about a foot of snow to get at it.













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__ races pig
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## arkashby

I got my Super Pro smoker barrel today at lows! Brought it home and promptly disassembled it so I can paint it red, yes I'm painting over the original coating. As an experiment mind you. Doing all the mods I've seen here as well will post Pict's tomorrow as it was to dark to finnish tonight.


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## arkashby

OK, finnished putting it back togather. Here's what it looks like. tell me what you think.













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__ arkashby
__ Aug 10, 2012


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## thsmormonsmokes

Arkashby said:


> OK, finnished putting it back togather. Here's what it looks like. tell me what you think.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 100_1692.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ arkashby
> __ Aug 10, 2012


That looks hot man.  I like it.  Personally I might have chosen blue, but that's because I'm a BYU grad and I hate the U of U.  

In a sort of related note, does anyone know of a good temp resistant paint to protect the metal of the SFB?  The factory paint on top has peeled off mine.  I've been spraying it with Pam or another spray oil when it's at temp, kind of how you'd season a dutch oven.  But the temps on the top of the SFB get so high that it burns that off and I've had some minor rust form on it.


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## boardpuller

I have used Rust-oleum High Heat   good to 2000 degrees from Home Depot seems to hold well


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## arkashby

I used Rust -oleum Caliper paint. Heat resistaint to 900F ! In Red ! At wallmart.


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## cobrajg

I have the super pro with SFB; sealed lid, baffle with tuning plates, extended chimney to grate level with dryer vent tube, and built charcoal box for SFB.  I still have 30-40 degree difference from one side to the other.  I removed the tuning plates and turned the charcoal pan upside down and still got the same uneven temps.  Any suggestions?  I do have the damper plate removed between the grill and SFB.

Followed these mods: http://www.deejayssmokepit.net/Downloads_files/CharGrilleMods.pdf

Thanks!


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## arkashby

LOL, Doing burn in on new set up and thermomitors at great lvl are 50 degrees different. Have coals in barrle not SFB. thermomitor furthest way from SFB is 400f and the other is 350F. Can I calibrate thermomtors?


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## coyote-1

cobrajg said:


> I have the super pro with SFB; sealed lid, baffle with tuning plates, extended chimney to grate level with dryer vent tube, and built charcoal box for SFB.  I still have 30-40 degree difference from one side to the other.  I removed the tuning plates and turned the charcoal pan upside down and still got the same uneven temps.  Any suggestions?  I do have the damper plate removed between the grill and SFB.
> 
> Followed these mods: http://www.deejayssmokepit.net/Downloads_files/CharGrilleMods.pdf
> 
> Thanks!


Look at the tuning plate configuration there. Heat travels UP. That thing tries to push it DOWN. So much of your heat will escape via the top of the firebox... bet you're doubling your fuel consumption for each smoke.

My "tuning plate" is just a full size (26"x18") commercial baking pan. I have it on a pair of bricks to hold it just above the firebox output; this ensures all the heat is coming into the cooking chamber. I keep it mostly up against the firebox side, but slightly skewed so that smoke is coming out all along each side. My temps are pretty even from one side to the other if I want, and if I feel the need to make one side hotter I just slide that whole pan over to the left a bit.

My brother, who has had his New Braunfels Black Diamond for years, never worried about evening out temps. He feels that having one side hotter than the other is a very useful thing in many cases. And his product is awesome.


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## arkashby

Im doing the tuning plates but out of aluminum about 1/8" thich. hoping that will help.


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## cobrajg

coyote-1 said:


> Look at the tuning plate configuration there. Heat travels UP. That thing tries to push it DOWN. So much of your heat will escape via the top of the firebox... bet you're doubling your fuel consumption for each smoke.
> 
> My "tuning plate" is just a full size (26"x18") commercial baking pan. I have it on a pair of bricks to hold it just above the firebox output; this ensures all the heat is coming into the cooking chamber. I keep it mostly up against the firebox side, but slightly skewed so that smoke is coming out all along each side. My temps are pretty even from one side to the other if I want, and if I feel the need to make one side hotter I just slide that whole pan over to the left a bit.
> 
> My brother, who has had his New Braunfels Black Diamond for years, never worried about evening out temps. He feels that having one side hotter than the other is a very useful thing in many cases. And his product is awesome.


I sort of did that on my last smoke with the charcoal pan but I left the baffle in place.  I'll remove the baffle and try to find something other than the charcoal pan.  Thanks for the info.


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## porterman

i ground the flare off with an angle grinder.


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## arkashby

First smoke with new rig.

Thurs. 4:00pm. Brisket Rubbed and wraped in plasic wrap. overnight in fridge













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__ Aug 17, 2012






Friday 3:30AM. Brisket in and Smoking nicely.













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4:30 AM. Tepms staying steady.













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7:00 AM













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11:00AM













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3:00:PM













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8:00 PM

No other picts as it was lunch at work for my team!


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## crazyboutsmoke

I noticed there is a nice felt strip used with the BGE.  If you use the angle iron around the cooking area, you can use this instead of the rope and caulk.  The fibers come off of the rope and can get in your food.


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## cisco1

*







  does any1 know what advantages a rottessorie smoker wld be with swivel shelves ?*


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## thsmormonsmokes

CrazyBoutSmoke said:


> I noticed there is a nice felt strip used with the BGE.  If you use the angle iron around the cooking area, you can use this instead of the rope and caulk.  The fibers come off of the rope and can get in your food.


Is there a way to attach angle iron to the lid/lower effectively without welding that would still allow for a good seal?  I have no welding skills, and only access to an arc welder, so I'm afraid any attempt to weld would burn a hole right through my cooking chamber.  And I'm not sure how I could bolt it on without compromising the seal due to the bolts.

Also, what type of felt material would you use to pack in the angle iron, and where would I buy some?

I'm constantly on the lookout for a good solution to this problem.  I've done the rope method, and it just hasn't been as effective as I'd like.  So far my best solution has been to pack the gap full of tin foil.  I'd like a more permanent solution than that.


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## aland

You can go to High-Que.com. They sell sealer gaskets for BGE's. Though I haven't applied the strips to my SH 44" #8, I bought scraps at Brian's suggestion. He asked for dimensions for the 2-door smoker, He charged me $20 instead of a $30-$35 roll. # is 855-444-4783. Aland


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## paulyd213

As do I, ended up using a sawzall to get it out. Those instructions make it sound like it just pops out, glad to know i wasnt the only one possibly cursing that thing!


----------



## paulyd213

kid creole said:


> Don't ask me how I know, but i know the same thing you do.  :)


----------



## crazyboutsmoke

ThsMormonSmokes said:


> Is there a way to attach angle iron to the lid/lower effectively without welding that would still allow for a good seal?  I have no welding skills, and only access to an arc welder, so I'm afraid any attempt to weld would burn a hole right through my cooking chamber.  And I'm not sure how I could bolt it on without compromising the seal due to the bolts.
> 
> Also, what type of felt material would you use to pack in the angle iron, and where would I buy some?
> 
> I'm constantly on the lookout for a good solution to this problem.  I've done the rope method, and it just hasn't been as effective as I'd like.  So far my best solution has been to pack the gap full of tin foil.  I'd like a more permanent solution than that.


I bought aluminum angle iron from Lowe's.  It cuts easily with a hack saw.  To attach it, I used stainless bolts.  Make sure you use a step drill bit.  It provides a much cleaner hole.  Currently I have high temp rtv in the angle iron, but I would like to use BGE felt instead.  With the rtv on the angle iron, I have to add a small single layer strip of foil on the the angle iron because I pressed down too hard when making a groove in the sealant a little smoke leaks out.  This mod has helped me to manage air leakage.


----------



## webdaddy

The metal on this unit isn't the best to be welding on. Like CrazyBoutSmoke I combined what a few people did and have had excellent luck. There is a very small amount of smoke leaking but that is because I screwed up my measurements when drilling on the right and the front ended up slightly lower than the rear. The leak is so small it isn't worth fixing it.

Here's the thread on what I did.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/58778/char-griller-smokin-pro-with-firebox-mods/300#post_842411

 Additionally, I added wheels with brakes; now it's so easy to move my wife can do it.













IMG_9110.JPG



__ webdaddy
__ Oct 17, 2012


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## thsmormonsmokes

Webdaddy said:


> The metal on this unit isn't the best to be welding on. Like CrazyBoutSmoke I combined what a few people did and have had excellent luck. There is a very small amount of smoke leaking but that is because I screwed up my measurements when drilling on the right and the front ended up slightly lower than the rear. The leak is so small it isn't worth fixing it.
> 
> Here's the thread on what I did.
> 
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/58778/char-griller-smokin-pro-with-firebox-mods/300#post_842411
> 
> Additionally, I added wheels with brakes; now it's so easy to move my wife can do it.
> 
> 
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> IMG_9110.JPG
> 
> 
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> __ webdaddy
> __ Oct 17, 2012


Good call on the fire rope on your ash pan.  I've been wondering about how to deal with that gap as well.  That hurts the ability to control air flow.  I assume you haven't had any issues with the temp getting too high that close to the fire?  That might not be a terrible idea to plug another leak I've had around the lid to my SFB.  Hmm.  Sounds like I've got another round of mods in the future.  Gotta get them done for Thanksgiving.


----------



## kathleen gefre

Wow!!! You guys are way ahead of me in the technical part.  I've REALLY got to catch up.  Anyone have any ideas about what's the next best step up from my ole reliable Brinkman Chimney style.   I have a nice gas grill I use for grilling, but I think I'm ready for a big girl smoker.


----------



## crazyboutsmoke

Kathleen Gefre said:


> Wow!!! You guys are way ahead of me in the technical part.  I've REALLY got to catch up.  Anyone have any ideas about what's the next best step up from my ole reliable Brinkman Chimney style.   I have a nice gas grill I use for grilling, but I think I'm ready for a big girl smoker.


I bought a WSM 18.5 after I got my Chargriller, and I wish I would have spent the money on another chargriller... :(


----------



## nzpilot1

Well I am not saying I know much about this but my Char Griller is not sealed and I don't have a problem getting it to around 275 to 300 for 3 hours just setting my dampers about 1/4" OPEN . I put 3 full charcoal onto the firebox then I light another 20 pieces of charcoal in my charcoal lighter and do the minion method. I cook it in the smoker for 5 hours or until the internal temp gets to around 170 then take out the brisket and double wrap it in tin foil, I put half a cup of liquids that come out of the drip tray you have under the brisket. I put in in the oven for another 3 hours at about 240 or so until the meat temp gets to 200, then take it out and let it rest for 30 minutes and it will be the best you have ever had.I am attaching a couple of photos. Hope this helps.


----------



## arkashby

I added the baffle tp my smoker and temps rose on SFB side and dropped on non-SFB side. I took it out and discovered that without it my smoker stays at an even temp. I do loose a lot of smoke but everything I've smoked has come out excellent. I'm using the tuning plates to hold my drip pan.


----------



## mossymo

Today it has been 5 years since this thread was started; over 29,000 views and over 300 replies it is still going strong!


----------



## richman2000

I've been following these posts for awhile getting ideas for my next upgradce to my Chargriller Duo w/ SFB.  One thing I have done is make it more portable.  I used a cart from Harbor Freight, and had a friend move the wheels to the outside to lower it.  This really helps when moving it from it's parking spot on the patio over to the back of my yard when I'm running the smoker.  I move it to the back of the yard to piss off my neighbor.













1112000659.jpg



__ richman2000
__ Nov 12, 2010


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## firepit

Webdaddy said:


> Additionally, I added wheels with brakes; now it's so easy to move my wife can do it.
> 
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> __ webdaddy
> __ Oct 17, 2012




Great idea!!!

What brand wheels did you purchase and how much did you cut off of the legs? Did the wheels fit or did you have to modify them or the legs?

Thanks,
FIREPIT


----------



## firepit

Webdaddy said:


> The metal on this unit isn't the best to be welding on. Like CrazyBoutSmoke I combined what a few people did and have had excellent luck. There is a very small amount of smoke leaking but that is because I screwed up my measurements when drilling on the right and the front ended up slightly lower than the rear. The leak is so small it isn't worth fixing it.
> 
> Here's the thread on what I did.
> 
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/58778/char-griller-smokin-pro-with-firebox-mods/300#post_842411
> 
> 
> Additionally, I added wheels with brakes; now it's so easy to move my wife can do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> __ webdaddy
> __ Oct 17, 2012



Great idea on the wheels!

What brand wheels did you purchase and how much did you have to cut off of the legs? Did the wheels fit or did you have to alter them or the legs?

Thanks,
FIREPIT


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## smoking glove

the link you provided was great for the trim but it didn't say anything about the wheels.  Can you give more detail as I would like to add wheels also.


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## austinsmoke

Did a few more Mods a few weeks ago on my CGSP SFB...seemed ok, but I used this crap charcoal from Gander Mountain, mut have been mosit or something, could hardly keep it going, consequently my smoke took forever...food was still good though













new basket,mods,butt 006.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012






First new Charcoal basket 12x12x6













new basket,mods,butt 005.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012






Added a larger tuning plate...













new basket,mods,butt 004.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012






2000 degreee silicone...worked "ok"













new basket,mods,butt 007.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012






Ran some 5/8 furnace rope along back of lid...and front

had to take front one off as lid would not close properly..back one worked perfect













new basket,mods,butt 008.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012






Attached steel angle iron to side, then ran 1/2 furnace rope in channel to seal the sides...should have used 5/8













new basket,mods,butt 009.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012






These turned out good













new basket,mods,butt 001.jpg



__ austinsmoke
__ Nov 4, 2012


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## webdaddy

FIREPIT said:


> Great idea on the wheels!
> What brand wheels did you purchase and how much did you have to cut off of the legs? Did the wheels fit or did you have to alter them or the legs?
> Thanks,
> FIREPIT


Thanks Firepit!

I purchased the wheels form Caster City. The part number is 3ABK3X-ER21-ML;

http://www.castercity.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=3ABK3X-ML&ReturnTo=../cm3a-stem.htm

The leg frame is roughly 2" dia so the 1-13/16 expanding rubber stem was a perfect fit. I can't recall how much I cut off, but if you cut it even with the other side, where the factory wheels are mounted, you should be o.k..

I used a die grinder to make the cut (A hacksaw would work too) and a round file to trim back the burs on the inside. Keep in mind the metal is not very thick, so don't get agressive with it or you can bend the ends in making it difficult to insert the stem. Additionally, I drilled though the legs into the rubber so I could run a screw in to keep it extra secure.

I had bought four wheels to do all four legs, but it was too much of a hassle to get the other side done. It actually worked out well as I believe it is easier to handle than it would have been with four casters.

Hope this helps! Good luck with the mods. I've got my unit exactly where I want as it performs flawlessly!


----------



## firepit

Webdaddy said:


> Thanks Firepit!
> 
> 
> I purchased the wheels form Caster City. The part number is 3ABK3X-ER21-ML;
> http://www.castercity.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=3ABK3X-ML&ReturnTo=../cm3a-stem.htm
> 
> The leg frame is roughly 2" dia so the 1-13/16 expanding rubber stem was a perfect fit. I can't recall how much I cut off, but if you cut it even with the other side, where the factory wheels are mounted, you should be o.k..
> 
> I used a die grinder to make the cut (A hacksaw would work too) and a round file to trim back the burs on the inside. Keep in mind the metal is not very thick, so don't get agressive with it or you can bend the ends in making it difficult to insert the stem. Additionally, I drilled though the legs into the rubber so I could run a screw in to keep it extra secure.
> 
> I had bought four wheels to do all four legs, but it was too much of a hassle to get the other side done. It actually worked out well as I believe it is easier to handle than it would have been with four casters.
> 
> Hope this helps! Good luck with the mods. I've got my unit exactly where I want as it performs flawlessly!



Thanks for the info Webdaddy! I just order the casters and can't wait to get them on. Every time I move my Chargriller now I can feel the firebox flex, lol!


----------



## the duster

I have read through all seventeen pages a few times now and I have seen a varying amount of fuel usage.  What has everyone found to be their average fuel uses over a six hour smoke for warm temps, cold temps and windy temps and with what mods you have made?  I only have so much time so I can only do a mod or two at a time so I am trying to figure out which ones will minimize fuel usage and then I will move to evening out the temps in a few months. Thanks in advance and you all have helped me out so much.


----------



## the duster

A follow-on question here, it is cold here and I really want to smoke this weekend but I don't want to run out of fuel again.  I have been covering the smoking chamber with a moving blanket but I was curious if anyone can tell me if they cover the SFB with anything and if it helps.  If it does help what do you recommend I cover it with?  I have read where others have made cold weather smoking stations out of plywood but I neither have the room or the funds to make it happen. Thanks


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## cliffcarter

the duster said:


> A follow-on question here, it is cold here and I really want to smoke this weekend but I don't want to run out of fuel again.  I have been covering the smoking chamber with a moving blanket but I was curious if anyone can tell me if they cover the SFB with anything and if it helps.  If it does help what do you recommend I cover it with?  I have read where others have made cold weather smoking stations out of plywood but I neither have the room or the funds to make it happen. Thanks


Cover the SFB with a blanket only if you want to burn the blanket, I heat my cooking wood on top of the SFB before adding it to the fire and it usually gets hot enough to start smoking.


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## the duster

Thanks cliffcarter,  I ussually warm the wood I am going to smoke but the issue I was asking was if covering teh side fire box would help conserve fuel.  I did not cover it but covered the smoking chamber with a welding blanket and it worked wonders in this temprature (thanks aland!).  I see that you live in Maine and it is colder there than where I am at in NY so how do you conserve fuel when you do your winter smokes?  thanks again!!


----------



## cliffcarter

the duster said:


> Thanks cliffcarter,  I ussually warm the wood I am going to smoke but the issue I was asking was if covering teh side fire box would help conserve fuel.  I did not cover it but covered the smoking chamber with a welding blanket and it worked wonders in this temprature (thanks aland!).  I see that you live in Maine and it is colder there than where I am at in NY so how do you conserve fuel when you do your winter smokes?  thanks again!!


The short answer is - no it will not conserve fuel, you have already done that by covering the cooking chamber. The point I was trying to make about covering the SFB with a blanket is that it will not help. The SFB is going to "leak" heat no matter what the ambient air temp is. It is a fact of life with offsets (or any outside oven) that they will use more fuel in cold weather.

How do I conserve fuel in the cold? Quite frankly I don't worry about it, I don't use charcoal in my chargriller to cook with, I only use 2 chimneys of lump to get it started then switch to wood splits for the actual cook. Wood consumption is higher in the winter by as much as 50% if it is really cold, but if I want BBQ, so be it. Of course I probably wouldn't be so relaxed about it if I had to pay for the cooking wood I use, one of the benefits of living in the most forested state in the nation.


----------



## captain480

Quick question for everyone. Naturally I see everyone makes adjustments to the SFB of these Chargrillers but check out mine....I just purchased it and begin modding today if this rain lets up. I'm not sure i need to actually modify my SFB because they've included actual grates to cook on like the primary chamber....I'm going to go with jackpot here. Thoughts? Maybe they Chargriller listened to it's fan base? I did however remove the lame rack on the bottom of the ash collection tray. Not sure that's required any longer considering. Also...I'm thinking more and more about the main chamber ash collection tray. Flipping it like everyone does perhaps with some bricks as I've seen before with some evenly spaced holes drilled seems to be an effective free alternative to a tuning plate.

We season today....we smoke SuperBowl Sunday :P













photo.JPG



__ captain480
__ Jan 27, 2013


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## themule69

Captain480 said:


> Quick question for everyone. Naturally I see everyone makes adjustments to the SFB of these Chargrillers but check out mine....I just purchased it and begin modding today if this rain lets up. I'm not sure i need to actually modify my SFB because they've included actual grates to cook on like the primary chamber....I'm going to go with jackpot here. Thoughts? Maybe they Chargriller listened to it's fan base? I did however remove the lame rack on the bottom of the ash collection tray. Not sure that's required any longer considering. Also...I'm thinking more and more about the main chamber ash collection tray. Flipping it like everyone does perhaps with some bricks as I've seen before with some evenly spaced holes drilled seems to be an effective free alternative to a tuning plate.
> 
> We season today....we smoke SuperBowl Sunday :P
> 
> 
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> 
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> __ captain480
> __ Jan 27, 2013


welcome to the group captain.

happy smoken.

david


----------



## captain480

Thank you thank you - seasoning is going as planned. Not sure about the grates yet...can only shove 1 chimey of coals in the box and pretty full.....we shall see. Also...the thermometer included with these things is so far off it's amazing :) I hadn't even fire it up yet and direct sun light was indicating 100+ degrees...lol. Only problem is today's high is only like mid 60's


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## the duster

Hey Captain 480,

I am a Newbie also so take everything I say with a grain of salt.  I believe the cast iron grates in the SFB are for grilling seeing that if you do not use the SFB as an SFB it can be a stand alone portable grill.  I am having good luck with just turning the Smoke chamber pan over and using a bread pan of water as a baffel on the SFB side of the smoke chamber.  I have noticed the biggest benifits from extending the smoke stack and covering the smoke chamber with a welding blanket as it is mentioned on this post often.  It is twnety degrees out and I am holding temprature between 220 and 240 for three hours now. good luck!!


----------



## the duster

Thanks again cliffcarter,

I am assuming that I just can't go to my wood pile and grab any log to use for cooking.  How have you found the best way of finding good cookin splits?  It sounds as though you may have a large stand of trees but I am hoping that you can shed some knowledge on it.  I also only use lump charcoal.  Thanks again for your help and patience with the newbie!!!


----------



## captain480

Thanks Duster! I'm with you - I suspect the grates are for grilling if you choose like you had mentioned. Turns out that they work pretty well actually! Now that the grill is seasoned I'm going to do just that. Flip the main chamber coal pan over and with the help of a couple bricks try to get it to fully cover the SFB opening because as you know, flipping it still leaves it open just a bit. As far as extending the stack already done and works like a charm :) Minimal leaks. Next week we throw some food on it.


----------



## pbjohnsen

Check Craigslist for free wood. I've gotten white oak, apple, and pear wood for free from Craigslist. Also check local apple orchards or tree trimming companies to see if they would work with you to acquire some good hardwoods.


----------



## cliffcarter

the duster said:


> Thanks again cliffcarter,
> 
> I am assuming that I just can't go to my wood pile and grab any log to use for cooking.  How have you found the best way of finding good cookin splits?  It sounds as though you may have a large stand of trees but I am hoping that you can shed some knowledge on it.  I also only use lump charcoal.  Thanks again for your help and patience with the newbie!!!


Maybe you can, what kind of wood is in your wood pile? I use maple, black cherry and apple, others have used ash and many of the oak varieties.

I cut my splits about 9-10 inches long and about 3 inches at the thickest part, this size works well in the CharGriller IMHO.


----------



## the duster

cliffcarter said:


> Maybe you can, what kind of wood is in your wood pile? I use maple, black cherry and apple, others have used ash and many of the oak varieties.
> 
> I cut my splits about 9-10 inches long and about 3 inches at the thickest part, this size works well in the CharGriller IMHO.


I am not sure seeing that I bought a chord to burn in teh fireplace last winter but it is time to order again so I will have to be a little more specific.  thanks for the info!!!


----------



## the duster

pbjohnsen said:


> Check Craigslist for free wood. I've gotten white oak, apple, and pear wood for free from Craigslist. Also check local apple orchards or tree trimming companies to see if they would work with you to acquire some good hardwoods.


Thanks,  That has me thinking and I have all ready idnetified a few people to call.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Captain480 said:


> Quick question for everyone. Naturally I see everyone makes adjustments to the SFB of these Chargrillers but check out mine....I just purchased it and begin modding today if this rain lets up. I'm not sure i need to actually modify my SFB because they've included actual grates to cook on like the primary chamber....I'm going to go with jackpot here. Thoughts? Maybe they Chargriller listened to it's fan base? I did however remove the lame rack on the bottom of the ash collection tray. Not sure that's required any longer considering. Also...I'm thinking more and more about the main chamber ash collection tray. Flipping it like everyone does perhaps with some bricks as I've seen before with some evenly spaced holes drilled seems to be an effective free alternative to a tuning plate.
> 
> We season today....we smoke SuperBowl Sunday :P
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photo.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ captain480
> __ Jan 27, 2013


The main reason I removed my grates you've pictured above and opted for a basket was for Minion Method cooking (My basket is pictured on page 12, I think).  You simply can't put much fuel in that small of an area.  I burn charcoal briquettes.  I prefer lump, but Lowes sold Kingsford briquettes at $9 per 40 lbs last year around Labor Day.  I think I bought 200 lbs.  I just can't pass up on a deal like that.

Anyway, that will give you all the airflow in the world you need, which is good, but you will probably be limited to burning splits or pretty small piles of charcoal at a time.  If you don't mind tending to it constantly, that's not really a problem.  It might also make it harder to maintain temps during colder weather due to smaller fuel volume, but that's a guess.


----------



## venture

My basket is shorter and sits in lower.

I have never used either set of SFB grates that came with the smoker.  The grilling grates are useless based on how I use the unit.  The bottom grate just makes removing ash more difficult.  This is why I use the basket.

Good luck and good smoking.


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## arkashby

I used the grates but only as a way to hold my basket as I have not added bars. I oppted to put them togather so they lay on the ledge just above the  ash tray. so far I have no probs with temps.


----------



## smokyinmuskogee

I know I am asking about an old post, but I have not been able to find one of those "shaking baskets" anywhere.  Is that something Lowe's used to have, but no longer?


----------



## the duster

Sailorfly said:


> I know I am asking about an old post, but I have not been able to find one of those "shaking baskets" anywhere.  Is that something Lowe's used to have, but no longer?


I have not found any yet and in teh thread it states that they stopped making them. :(


----------



## the duster

Also, I just did what Arkashby did and bolted the SFB grates together and used it to hold the basket I made out of the expanded metal 24" by 24" from Home depot.  It took me about 30 minutes $20 for the expanded metal and $10 for the wire cutters or aircraft cutters whatever they are called.  It was a tight fit at 12X12X6 so I had to bend the top of the basket to the curve of the side fire box and it fits snuggly now.  Thanks all for your help.  I will post pictures of the brisket I am doing tonight on QVIEW.


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## beaummiler

Love this iv had my char pro for around 5 years and have had a lot of great q from it aside from it junk temp gage i use oven ones and bbysittin its fire i have learnd a few things thats going to happen asap glad i happend on this thread


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## daveomak

Duster, morning....  Making the smoker air tight, especially the firebox, will save on fuel and provide better heat control....  Get a few hours smoke on stuff then finish in the oven... that is another solution...  Dave


----------



## the duster

Hey Dave,  The snow hit heavy at 2 am and I added more fuel around three then I fell a sleep and at 5:45 it was down to 160 but the internal temp was 185 so I pulled and tin foiled and put in a cooler with rags.  I did not expect it to finish in just over twelve hours I was expecting 15-20 so I will have to throw it in the when we eat at 2 this afternoon.  thanks for the idea.


----------



## dna3

Hello, new to the forum. Just purchased the CG Pro and trying the mods advised on this site. 
My question, what type of dryer vent should I buy extend the exhaust to grill level.  I bought gas pipe and it's way too hard to bend properly.  If the foil tubing too thin?


----------



## daveomak

DNA evening....  this link will take you to all the mods on the CG smokers.....   there may be mods there you are not familiar with...   Dave

Please take a moment and stop into " /*Roll Call*/   " and introduce yourself and get a proper welcome from our members.... Also, if you would note your location in your profile, it will help in the future when answering questions about smokin'...   elevation, humidity etc....    

We're glad you stopped in and joined our group...    Enjoy the long smokey ride....     Dave


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

DNA3 said:


> Hello, new to the forum. Just purchased the CG Pro and trying the mods advised on this site.
> My question, what type of dryer vent should I buy extend the exhaust to grill level. I bought gas pipe and it's way too hard to bend properly. If the foil tubing too thin?


I used an aluminum dryer vent hose for mine.  It doesn't need to be terribly strong.  It just needs to extend the stack to grate level.  You just have to be careful not to put food there that will crush your hose when you close the lid.

If it's a newer model, you're going to have a little trouble fitting dryer hose over the stack exit.  They changed the design and now there's kind of a flange inside the smoker.  I coaxed mine into shape with a pair of channel locks and an appropriate amount of profanity.  It took a little doing, but it eventually fit the hose over it.  Then I used a bit of tie wire to snug it into place (poor man's hose clamp).  It's held like a champ.

Also be careful about incorporating any galvanized materials (hose clamps are usually galvanized, I believe).  I don't think they make galvanized dryer hoses due to the heat of dryer exhaust, but I don't know that stuff that well.


----------



## the duster

DNA3 said:


> Hello, new to the forum. Just purchased the CG Pro and trying the mods advised on this site.
> My question, what type of dryer vent should I buy extend the exhaust to grill level. I bought gas pipe and it's way too hard to bend properly. If the foil tubing too thin?


Hey DNA3 I just made the same mod and have a newer version.  I used a 3" vent elbow on mine.  We have the newer models so the chimney is flared but the elbow will actually stick inside the stack, so I did that and then rapped foil around it so it would not leak.  The funny thing is I wanted to see if it fit at lowes so I stuck it in the floor model and couldn't get it out so I think the next owner is getting a free mod :)


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## redneck1676

Ive been reading this post for days. I just got my CG Outlaw and haven't even put it together yet but I'm for sure going to do some mods and smoke it up. Thanks for all the advise Jason


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## barneypoo69

Sure would like to find another shaker basket like they had at Lowes...I'm on my last one (I bought spares). Its coming up to Spring time...........


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## the duster

Barneypoo69 said:


> Sure would like to find another shaker basket like they had at Lowes...I'm on my last one (I bought spares). Its coming up to Spring time...........


Yeah, i could not find any either but I did follow the advice of many on this thread and made one out of the expanded metal.  I have zero mechanical ability and girlie arms but I was able to make about a dozen snips in the links and bend a basket into shape, use re bar tie wire to tie to together and a file to take of the sharp points.  I did need a little help from my 11 month little girl but we got 'er done and it took no longer than fifteen minutes.


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## hobbyspike

We have Tractor Supply (TSC) here and they have fire brick in store.  They are if I remember like 2" thick and 4# long.


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## redneck1676

Just fired up my CG Outlaw for the first time to season it. Works like a champ, did Sommer of the recommended mods but still defiantly need to seal the lid. Threw a big fat steak on it for a test run. I couldn't be more happy. Can't wait to smoke something bigger.


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## smokinregina

So I may have just found something as a replacement for the charcoal box. I dunno if anyone has posted this yet, but since I am getting my Smokin Pro next week, I have been planning out my mods for it.  I found this in the process!  http://www.homedepot.ca/product/non-stick-shaker-basket/909933

I know the old basket was discontinued, but it seems they released a non-stick version. Same dimensions and all.  My only concern would be that the non-stick coating would not hold up to the charcoal burning directly on it and would release other things into the main chamber.  What do y'all think? Is it safe?


----------



## injector

A couple of members gave me advice on sealing things up. I needed a door seal instead of the rope and glue. You could try a high temp gasket silicone RTV type. May work for you...


----------



## buttburner

SmokinRegina said:


> So I may have just found something as a replacement for the charcoal box. I dunno if anyone has posted this yet, but since I am getting my Smokin Pro next week, I have been planning out my mods for it.  I found this in the process!  http://www.homedepot.ca/product/non-stick-shaker-basket/909933
> 
> I know the old basket was discontinued, but it seems they released a non-stick version. Same dimensions and all.  My only concern would be that the non-stick coating would not hold up to the charcoal burning directly on it and would release other things into the main chamber.  What do y'all think? Is it safe?


I would not use that. I am sure the coating would not hold up, the basket itself may not either as its not very thick

just bend one up out of expanded metal. then you can make it any size you want.


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

ButtBurner said:


> I would not use that. I am sure the coating would not hold up, the basket itself may not either as its not very thick
> 
> just bend one up out of expanded metal. then you can make it any size you want.


Agreed.  That looks to be less robust than the fire grate that comes with it, and that doesn't hold up at all.  Plus, who knows what chemical residue the non-stick surface will kick off when it burns.  They sell expanded metal at Home Depot and Lowes.  Just look near where they have their plate steel, flat steel, angle iron, etc...  It's usually near that.


----------



## smokinregina

Would y'all suggest expanded metal for a cooking surface as well?


----------



## beaummiler

did your char griller not come with cast grates but i use expanded metal to cook on in other grills work just fine and you get the cool grill marks to boot


----------



## smokinregina

Sorry, I should have clarified. I am buying my Char-Griller in the coming weeks. I am just trying to plan my mods out ahead of time.  I just like the idea of expanded metal as a cooking surface. Grill marks and all.  Ideally I will make all of my mods, run it through some burn off smokes, and then start cooking.


----------



## kragshot

First post but I've been reading this entire forum for a bit and I've spent a good while on this thread.I've had a Char-griller main grill for about seven or so years. I just got the SFB a week ago in order to convert it into full smoking. Up until now, I've been using a Brinkman electric bullet. Not great, but good enough to get me started with smoking. But I'm ready to take it to the next level and I got the SFB to do just that.So far, I've done the chimney mod, got a piece of sheet metal for the firebox baffle, and put in two grate-level thermometers. I seasoned the firebox earlier this week and everything seemed on-point.Today, I decided to do a full run and smoke two slabs of ribs and three rib tips. I used tin foil to make temporary seals on the smoking chamber and to use as a reflector on the SFB. I'm having no trouble maintaining 200 degree temps on both ends and the ribs are doing real good right now. I figure about another couple of hours and they'll be ready to come off.The next two mods I'll do will be on the firebox. Right now, I'm using the factory fire box grate. If it breaks down like everyone says it will, then at least I will have gotten one good smoke out of it.Before I sign off; I want to say that every post on this thread has been amazing and helpful. I'll post back later to let folks know how everything turned out.


----------



## webdaddy

Glad to hear they're are working for you Kragshot!


----------



## daveomak

Kragshot said:


> First post but I've been reading this entire forum for a bit and I've spent a good while on this thread. I've had a Char-griller main grill for about seven or so years. I just got the SFB a week ago in order to convert it into full smoking. Up until now, I've been using a Brinkman electric bullet. Not great, but good enough to get me started with smoking. But I'm ready to take it to the next level and I got the SFB to do just that. So far, I've done the chimney mod, got a piece of sheet metal for the firebox baffle, and put in two grate-level thermometers. I seasoned the firebox earlier this week and everything seemed on-point. Today, I decided to do a full run and smoke two slabs of ribs and three rib tips. I used tin foil to make temporary seals on the smoking chamber and to use as a reflector on the SFB. I'm having no trouble maintaining 200 degree temps on both ends and the ribs are doing real good right now. I figure about another couple of hours and they'll be ready to come off. The next two mods I'll do will be on the firebox. Right now, I'm using the factory fire box grate. If it breaks down like everyone says it will, then at least I will have gotten one good smoke out of it. Before I sign off; I want to say that every post on this thread has been amazing and helpful. I'll post back later to let folks know how everything turned out.


Kragshot, afternoon and welcome to the forum..... Starting a new thread would be better than posting on this thread....  You will get better exposure to your questions....

Please take a moment and stop into " /*[color= rgb(128, 0, 0)]Roll Call[/color]*/   " and introduce yourself and get a proper welcome from our members.... Also, if you would note your location in your profile, it will help in the future when answering questions about smokin'...   elevation, humidity etc....    

We're glad you stopped in and joined our group...    Enjoy the long smokey ride....     Dave


----------



## rhscreations

Hello all im new here first post actually...
So glaf I came across this thread as i needed Helo with my offset.I wanted/needed even heating temps and by reading this thread I think I found my soultion.
Below is a couple pix I tipo of a diffusrer and tunning plates 
So my question is on this smaller pit is it to much ir just rite? Cuz I.am not sure about the hear diffuset I made.any Helo would be great!













IMAG0176.jpg



__ rhscreations
__ May 13, 2013


----------



## kragshot

Just did!


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Kragshot said:


> First post but I've been reading this entire forum for a bit and I've spent a good while on this thread. I've had a Char-griller main grill for about seven or so years. I just got the SFB a week ago in order to convert it into full smoking. Up until now, I've been using a Brinkman electric bullet. Not great, but good enough to get me started with smoking. But I'm ready to take it to the next level and I got the SFB to do just that. So far, I've done the chimney mod, got a piece of sheet metal for the firebox baffle, and put in two grate-level thermometers. I seasoned the firebox earlier this week and everything seemed on-point. Today, I decided to do a full run and smoke two slabs of ribs and three rib tips. I used tin foil to make temporary seals on the smoking chamber and to use as a reflector on the SFB. I'm having no trouble maintaining 200 degree temps on both ends and the ribs are doing real good right now. I figure about another couple of hours and they'll be ready to come off. The next two mods I'll do will be on the firebox. Right now, I'm using the factory fire box grate. If it breaks down like everyone says it will, then at least I will have gotten one good smoke out of it. Before I sign off; I want to say that every post on this thread has been amazing and helpful. I'll post back later to let folks know how everything turned out.


I'm curious about what you meant by a reflector in the SFB.

Do you use tuning plates?  It seems like if you only have a baffle you'd still get really hot temps on the SFB side.  I know I usually do.  But that also depends heavily on the amount and shape of meat I put in the cooking chamber.  That really seems to disrupt air flow and I haven't found a way to get smoke after smoke temp consistency across the grates.  Some I'm dead on, and others I've been off by 30* or so.


----------



## ikinya6

johnd49455 said:


> I like all the mods but I do use mine for a grill from time to time & it would be a pain to remove all the mods to grill. The only thing I do & have good luck with is to use the original Charcoal Pan with aluminum water pans as a baffle/tuning plate.


I'm not a craftsman and I wanted to use mine for grilling on occasion, as well.  My solution was simply to turn the charcoal pan upside down, drill a bunch of holes in it, and push it up against the SFB.  For the most part, it has served me well for that past 8+ years.


----------



## chrisk

Hello All,

Getting ready to do some of the mods this weekend. One question i have is the Rustoleum High Heat paint safe to use insode the CC and inside the Firebox? Both of these areas are getting a bit rusty on mine.

Great thread with a ton of info.

THanks

Chris


----------



## grimm5577

you could always sand it down and rub it well with some cooking oil, shouldn't rust much more after that.


----------



## daveomak

I can't recommend paint inside the smoker when food is being cooked....  spray it with cooking oil.... comes in a can....      Dave


----------



## chrisk

Thanks Guys. I will sand it up and oil it down. i was worried about food contamination as well.


----------



## pray4bigb

CharGriller" data-source="post: 435255"
	class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">
	
		
CharGriller said:


> Hi fellas,
> 
> 
> Found this thread accidently. Great to see there are others that have discovered this sweet grill/smoker. I've peeked at all the mods and hats off to all for their ideas. I've had my CG Smoking Pro w/sfb since 2005 so have either tried or done many of the mods I've seen here. Theres more than one way to skin a cat. But I've also done many more mods to my unit.
> 
> 
> 1. Insulated lid mod.
> 
> 2. MC (Main Chamber) lid hinge mod.
> 
> 3. Heavy Duty Frame and Wheel mod.
> 
> 4. Side Burner shelf mod.
> 
> 5. SFB cooking shelf mod.
> 
> 6. Tire valve temperture probe mod.
> 
> 7. Lid gasket mod.
> 
> 8. SFB charcoal grate Mod. (Raise shelf.
> 
> 9. AfterBurner propane conversion mod.
> 
> 10. EZQue Basket rotossiere mod.
> 
> 12. Both home made charcoal basket mod & Store bought Charcoal basket mod.
> 
> 
> I archived with photos most of what I did. If anyone is interested I'm sure I can find them with a little digging and would be happy to pass on what I've learned in the mod department. After all that's how we learn! :icon_smile:



CharGriller" data-source="post: 435255"
	class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">
	
		
CharGriller said:


> Hi fellas,
> 
> 
> Found this thread accidently. Great to see there are others that have discovered this sweet grill/smoker. I've peeked at all the mods and hats off to all for their ideas. I've had my CG Smoking Pro w/sfb since 2005 so have either tried or done many of the mods I've seen here. Theres more than one way to skin a cat. But I've also done many more mods to my unit.
> 
> 
> 1. Insulated lid mod.
> 
> 2. MC (Main Chamber) lid hinge mod.
> 
> 3. Heavy Duty Frame and Wheel mod.
> 
> 4. Side Burner shelf mod.
> 
> 5. SFB cooking shelf mod.
> 
> 6. Tire valve temperture probe mod.
> 
> 7. Lid gasket mod.
> 
> 8. SFB charcoal grate Mod. (Raise shelf.
> 
> 9. AfterBurner propane conversion mod.
> 
> 10. EZQue Basket rotossiere mod.
> 
> 12. Both home made charcoal basket mod & Store bought Charcoal basket mod.
> 
> 
> I archived with photos most of what I did. If anyone is interested I'm sure I can find them with a little digging and would be happy to pass on what I've learned in the mod department. After all that's how we learn! :icon_smile:


----------



## pray4bigb

Sir could you send me pictures you have I have theChar-griller as well
Thanks


----------



## rosilarose

Great ideas on here.  I have put a few in place and have had better success on the last few smokes.  Anyone have a recommendation on where to put the AMNPS?  I have tried on the Right side of the grill (worked well for about 4 hours, then the pellets combusted and sent the temps soaring), I have tried the Left side (can't seem to keep it smoking), and I have tried in the firebox on the right side with the coals pushed to the left side (as you can imagine, its way too hot in there and it caught fire pretty quickly).  Any help/ideas are appreciated.  Thanks


----------



## rocco

Thanks for all of the tips guys. I was going to start shopping for something new when my ash pan rusted through, but I have re-invented my Char-Griller. I added the side fire box, dryer vent to lower the smokestack to grill level,













96091C5A-7339-41E6-A212-A7CA107F6C9E-7440-0000048B



__ rocco
__ Jul 7, 2013






2 thermometers at grill level to the lid,













350D093B-EDF7-4D52-BCAB-7113659FE17B-7440-0000048A



__ rocco
__ Jul 7, 2013






made rails inside with angled steel to hold my 2 cake pans inside that act as a baffle for the firebox as well as a tuner that I can slide where I need, and act as water pans as well.













8D18F736-1F42-484C-A185-8F00A8AC480F-7440-0000048B



__ rocco
__ Jul 7, 2013






I put a watertight connector on the side to allow me to put the wireless thermometer's probe inside.













F4859A0D-A1F9-4993-AEDD-8B1C1A00F547-7440-0000048A



__ rocco
__ Jul 7, 2013






Also lined the bottom with lava rock to retain heat and added some lava rock. I used expanded metal to create the charcoal box and used the ceramic grills that came with the side fire box bolted together to rest it on.













066169E1-358A-436A-8D5B-80088D07C756-7440-0000048A



__ rocco
__ Jul 7, 2013






Lastly I used stove rope and some angled aluminum to seal the sides of the lid.













E698268D-9CE3-42A3-A3FD-2BB149E7638E-7440-0000048A



__ rocco
__ Jul 7, 2013






I am happy to say that my smoker runs at an even 225* across the grill and I have been getting some great results out of it.


----------



## dtatro69

I would not use any type of paint on the inside of any part of your smoker. I would be fearful of fumes from the paint getting into your food. On my smokers I bought a cheap spray bottle at WalMart. I filled the bottle with vegetable oil. I bring the temp up on the smoker with it empty in the cook chamber a do multiple coats as if I where seasoning my cast iron cooking pans. The more the smoker gets used the more natural protective coating comes natural while smoking.


----------



## remmy700p

I've posted this on other threads, but this is my "poor man's" baffle using two of the charcoal grates and multiple wraps of HD foil. It is suspended from the cooking grate by two loops of bonsai wire. The bottom of the baffle grate and the next grate have holes scattered across them by a 1/2" drill bit used as a punch. Temps are within 5-7 degrees side to side:













2013-06-05_08-29-22_666.jpg



__ remmy700p
__ Jun 24, 2013


----------



## greenboy222

Being a newbie to this website, I am going to definitely do some of these mods. I have been using mine for about three years now w/o any mods. Of course the food was great but it can be much better. Thank you all for the great ideas and tips!!!!


----------



## greenboy222

Looks great. I am looking for some simple ways to do some mods since I am not a welder or anything. I like the cake pan idea. I was also going to buy a piece of aluminum sheet to make a baffle.I am sure I could manage to cut that!. I also wanted to ask you how did you attach the dryer vent to the grill lid?


----------



## greenboy222

I just did these mods this morning. Uses dryer vent, H2O pan is from dollar store. I used an old grill grate from a small picnic grill for my fire box. I bought a sheet of aluminum for the baffle. I had to order two thermometers so waiting for them to come.  Think I am going to test it out with a nice brisket today!!!!

.













IMG_20130713_115210_549.jpg



__ greenboy222
__ Jul 13, 2013


















IMG_20130713_115217_369.jpg



__ greenboy222
__ Jul 13, 2013


















IMG_20130713_115318_172.jpg



__ greenboy222
__ Jul 13, 2013


----------



## cliffcarter

greenboy222 said:


> ... H2O pan is from dollar store...
> 
> .


IMHO you do not need a water pan in the CharGriller IMHO, I find it does nothing and you end up using more fuel heating the water. Keep it in as a drip pan for the meat juices, it'll make cleanup easier.


----------



## kgb1

greenboy222 said:


> Looks great. I am looking for some simple ways to do some mods since I am not a welder or anything. I like the cake pan idea. I was also going to buy a piece of aluminum sheet to make a baffle.I am sure I could manage to cut that!. I also wanted to ask you how did you attach the dryer vent to the grill lid?



I attached my flexible dryer vent to the bottom of the smoke stack with a ring clamp. And then I simply used a large hair pin (bobby pin) to clip the other end on the edge of the lid.


----------



## kgb1

cliffcarter said:


> IMHO you do not need a water pan in the CharGriller IMHO, I find it does nothing and you end up using more fuel heating the water. Keep it in as a drip pan for the meat juices, it'll make cleanup easier.



I would agree. I don't use a water pan in my CharGriller either and I have been doing some very nice smokes.


----------



## rocco

I have been using the water pan on the right strictly as a baffle, and drip pan, no water in it. My temps were running slightly higher on the far side so I put water in there and it has been running even ever since.


----------



## tacswa3

Hey guys,

    I picked up a 3'' drier hose but my stack on the char-griller under the lid is flared. I can't get the hose on. How are guys getting the 3'' hose on assuming everyone else's is flared as well?


----------



## daveomak

If you can find a 3" coupling, it will insert into the aluminum flex hose and the exhaust on your smoker......  Maybe......  Don't forget hose clamps...    or you can try a can from canned goods that fits...  measure some cans at the market...   you may have to get a can that is too big in diameter, split down one side... compress... clamp and insert.....    Dave


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

Tacswa3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I picked up a 3'' drier hose but my stack on the char-griller under the lid is flared. I can't get the hose on. How are guys getting the 3'' hose on assuming everyone else's is flared as well?


I used a pair of channel lock pliers and an appropriate amount of profanity to bend the flange down far enough to fit the dryer hose over it.  Then I used some tie wire to make good and sure it was adequately secured to the stack.  It's worked just fine so far.

If you use a hose clamp, beware of galvanization.  Most of those are galvanized or nickel plated, I believe.  Either way, I wouldn't use it.  That's why I opted for tie wire instead.


----------



## gr8hntr

Gr8 mods yall 
Where are yalls water pans going after makin bafflin and tuning plates ?


----------



## cliffcarter

gr8hntr said:


> Gr8 mods yall
> Where are yalls water pans going after makin bafflin and tuning plates ?


Water pans are not needed in a Chargriller.


----------



## gr8hntr

cliffcarter said:


> Water pans are not needed in a Chargriller.



Wow really 
im very new to smoking but my buddy thats showing me the ropes uses 2 water pans on the charcoal grate under the ribs
plz explain why they are not needed


----------



## jarjarchef

gr8hntr said:


> Wow really
> im very new to smoking but my buddy thats showing me the ropes uses 2 water pans on the charcoal grate under the ribs
> plz explain why they are not needed


Welcome!!!

Is he using the same smoker as you? Different smokers will perform different and need different setups...... When I was running my Chargriller Outlaw and Pro I tried to put water pans in and found that it affected my cooks in several ways.

Temp control: I was burning a ton of fuel just to keep it at 225. The water absorbs the heat first, and then it goes into the chamber. Also since you are not looking at the water pan often, when the water boils/evaporates out you can and will get big temp spikes.

Fuel Consumption: I found I would burn 2-3 times the amount of fuel with a water pan.

Bark Formation: You will not get as crisp of a bark with all of the moisture in the cook chamber.

Design: The offset smoker is not designed for a water pan like a vertical smoker is. In an offset you are cooking with indirect heat, so most of the heat is lost from the heat rising from the fire box. The air flow carries the smoke and some heat to the cook chamber to cook the meat. In a vertical smoker you need a heat sync to absorb some of the direct heat from sitting directly above the fire. That is why a water pan is designed to be above it. Some people are replacing the water with other food safe items like sand or even lava rocks.

Smoking meats is not an exact science. No 2 cooks are the same and no 2 cookers cook the same. So over time you will learn little tricks and the action/reaction effects. There are some basic guidelines to follow and the rest is up to experience. I have spoken with several people over the years about how they run their smoker and have seen over the short time I have participated on this forum that there are so many ways to run your smokes. You just need to be open to what others do, maybe try a few new ways and develop your way of running your smoker to get the results you want.

For the mods to this type of smoker they are all good and have purpose. I found the few that made the biggest difference for me was: charcoal basket, either flipping the ash pan in the cook chamber to be used as a tuning plate or installing tuning plates and accurate thermometers. The rest are nice and help, but those are the most important in my opinion.


----------



## gr8hntr

20130904_181810.jpg



__ gr8hntr
__ Sep 4, 2013


















20130904_181836.jpg



__ gr8hntr
__ Sep 4, 2013






Thats my smoker got it at Wal-Mart on sale for $89.00 and thats where my buddy puts his water pans on his
I added the 2 temp gauges before I found this place lol 
so I gotta move them


----------



## daveomak

*gr8hntr..........Thats my smoker got it at Wal-Mart on sale for $89.00 and thats where my buddy puts his water pans on his
I added the 2 temp gauges before I found this place lol
so I gotta move them*

The position of the therms is OK......    They are for reference only anyway.....    Place a probe 2" next to the meat, check the therms you have installed.......    If the probe on the rack reads 250 and the installed probes read 290, just allow for that difference when smoking in the future...  inside a smoker, the temps are or can be different, everywhere...... 

Dave


----------



## jarjarchef

From the way it looks in the cook chamber there is no pan under the charcoal grates. If that is the case tuning plates will be easy to make. You can cut 1 piece of metal the width of the smoker and 6"-8" wide. Lean it at an angle in front of the firebox opening on top of the charcoal grate. Then make one the same width and 10" wide, lay it ontop of the charcoal grate butting up to the first one. Make another couple of varying widths and lay them on the charcoal grate. Start with about 2" between each plate and leaving a 6" gap at the end. Dave is more of a design expert then myself and I agree with the therms being a guide. However if you do not have a remote thermometer to check the grate level temps. I would move them down to about 2" above grate level. If you have a therm you can read with the lid closed, don't move them. The other advantage to having them lower is a quick reference of the temp variance from side to side. Just a personal thing......, now if you don't have access to the metal or a way to cut it. You can fabricate the same thing with some foil and cutting an aluminum lid to create the same thing. You can use some heat safe tiles to form the heat sync element (wrap them in foil for easy cleaning).

So the water pans........I would not use them, but if you prefer you can experiment with them to see how they effect your heat control.

So the only other thing I did not see was a charcoal basket. They are so helpful in many was. Help with long cooks to keep the fuel out of the ash. If the fuel gets the ash you lose heat and burn more fuel........


----------



## gr8hntr

Awesome thx for all the help


----------



## thsmormonsmokes

gr8hntr said:


> Wow really
> im very new to smoking but my buddy thats showing me the ropes uses 2 water pans on the charcoal grate under the ribs
> plz explain why they are not needed


To Jarjar's point, there are a TON of variables.  I've been using this smoker for 2 years now and I've learned that I really need to stay on my toes.  Maybe it's the way I have my baffle and tuning plates, but my CGSP runs the most even when I have a water pan in it.  But it is tough to keep temps above 225 with the water pan because water boils at 210 F.  Personally I don't mind softening up my bark a little because it is often like extremely tough (and extremely tasty) jerky.  I'm not sure if the dry climate where I live has anything to do with that or not.  -The dew point in the summer is typically around 40.  

Another option for a medium in a pan is to use sand or pea gravel, as long as it's clean.  I did that with a turkey last Thanksgiving because I wanted to crisp up the skin as much as possible.  The jury is still out on that trick for me.  But since sand doesn't boil, it's easier to get to higher Q temps.  Anyway, just a thought.

The amount/size of pieces of meat  that you have in your chamber and their location on the grate can also have an enormous impact on temps across the grates.  Mine will run totally different based on where I put the meat.

My experience has been that I need to check in often (usually every 1.5 hrs through the night), and I need to be ready to respond to issues quickly.  

Bottom line for me is that reading up definitely helps, but only to a point.  At some point the only way to learn is to jump in and do it.  That's why starting with pork butts is probably a good idea.  They are much more forgiving than brisket.  And do some ABTs.  Super easy and big time crowd pleasers.


----------



## pigbark

What  a cool thread , it just wont die.. Gotta be in the hall of fame one day...

Hi im new to the site and have been reading the posts in this thread for the past few nights after I get off work.. Seeing some good ideas put to use and a lot of DIY work..  Cool stuff keep it up..

  I have a CGP w/SFB and when I first fired it up with some bacon grease smeared all over it , the first thing I noticed was how it leaked on both sides and the rear.. Kinda felt like a idiot stuffing rags in it every time I fired it up lol... second thing I noticed was the solo therm wasn't worth 2 cents .. first thing I did was added 2 Brinkmann therms down low ,HUGE difference.. after the first smoke I turned the charcoal tray upside down,HUGE difference.. Yea im still stuffing rags in this baby at this time lol... I ran it like that all last year and got looking for a good solid solution to my rags.. That's how I found this site and all the good info on here... im going to get some RTV sealant and try it out..

1 thing I have been doing that you can try if your interested in reverse flow.. flip your charcoal basket up side down and run aluminum foil all the way down to the last few inches or so, then get you some 3'' flex and simply run it to the other end of the chamber.. this may help save time and money just to find out if you like RF or not.. I been playing around with it and as simple as it is with foil and flex pipe, it does work pretty good and temps are not far off from side to side.. I need to smoke more on it but if I keep getting good results, ill prolly just keep as is and save the bux for more pig...

nice to meet you all, keep it real and keep on smokin


----------



## firejoe20

I just picked one of these smokers, slightly modified, used from a friend of mine who moved up to a much larger Lang smoker. It has a little rust on the firebox top which I will scrape down and repaint with high temp paint in the spring. I have been using a UDS for about 7 years with direct heat and a water pan. I am really looking forward to more indirect cooking of meat and also for the grains for my one beer I make, I am also a homebrewer. I have been reading the thread for about an hour and have so many more things that I want "need" to do now to my smoker. I have the tires done and also the baffle although that is below my standards by all means so that will be redone. 

I am really excited to get to know you all here and maybe trading some secrets and beers during a smoke day!


----------



## ristau5741

Very insightful and informative thread,  thanks to all of you and they hard work you've put into your smokers. I've got a lot of ideas on improving my Char Griller


----------



## kbish

been a few months since this thread has something posted so don't mind if i do. i remained patient scouring craigslist for several months until i finally found something i could work with. found a lightly used chargriller smokin pro for $50 and promptly went to buy the add on fire box. after being freshly assembled i took it for a test run and discovered where the flaws are. here's the mods i've done so far:

got a buddy with access to a sheetmetal shop so i asked him to make me a new charcoal box, measures 12"x12"x6"













IMG_5807_zpsasyjhhz0.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 29, 2014






ran some all thread though it and here she is hanging in the sfb













20140328_145753_zpsa7strrs8.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014






i asked the same buddy to also cut me 5 plates that are 13.5"x6" and bend a 45° bend 2" in on one of the plates, using these for tuning plates/baffles. i bolted some aluminum L brackets to the front and rear of the main chamber to set the plates on then bolted the baffle with the bend in it above the inlet from the sfb













20140321_225851_zpsfmixtyjw.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014
__ 2


















20140328_145745_zpsnxs0gp3n.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014






riveted a 3/8" C channel down each side of the main chamber and stuffed some 1/2" fire rope in to the channels to seal up the sides













20140328_145835_zpsbtlmu9mk.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014


















20140328_145849_zpspfgjqnjp.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014






replace the worthless stock temp gauge with a steel piggy and then put a couple new temp gauges in the lower left and right portions of the lid near grate level. the temp gauges are http://www.homedepot.com/p/Brinkmann-Temperature-Gauge-812-7229-S/203016476 and though Brinkmann Support posted in the question/answer section saying that the gauge is not adjustable, they actually are













20140329_184341_zps9lzvueyr.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014






added some dryer vent tubing to the lid. just used some large channel locks and bent the flare in until i could slide the tubing on to it. it's bolted to the side of the lid













20140329_200240_zpsbfqfhgkn.jpg



__ kbish
__ Mar 30, 2014






i've also used red rtv to seal up between the sfb and the main chamber (took the two apart, applied the rtv then bolted back together), used the rtv to seal up the plate behind the pig that replaced the stock temp gauge, also used the rtv to seal up around smoke stack. still to do is figure out how i plan to seal up the front and back of the main chamber, probably going to use a L bracket riveted to the front and using some rtv to lay down some flat fire rope to it. the back though???? maybe just lots of heavy duty foil for now. then on the sfb i'm planning on using some rtv to lay down some more flat fire rope around the main door and installing a hook latch to pull the door tight and keep it sealed


----------



## jarjarchef

Looks great! I miss my CG.....

The HD foil will work for now. I have seen the front and back lip adapted to allow for a rope gasket to be applied.


----------



## sleddog

Kbish;

Inspirational to say the least! Sounds like bending the flare in the stack was no biggie. I have an 3" adjustable elbow screwed in place on the inside of the stack as a quickie fix, but it looks shoddy. I'm using aluminum drip pans on the charcoal pan as baffles with some success...The thermometer that came with my 50/50 gas charcoal grill seems to be spot on. I have been using a couple of oven thermos to move around the grill for my dry test runs and so far have been able to balance the heat from one end to the other using the SFB. Your modifications are neat and clean and sure seem like just the ticket for me to follow as I continue to work on this grill...Thanks for the pictures. Your quality work shows.


----------



## kbish

Sleddog said:


> Sounds like bending the flare in the stack was no biggie


it wasn't bad at all. i had unbolted the stack from the lid and just did it all on the workbench using a giant pair of slip joints


----------



## fpmich

I didn't bother messing with the flange at all.  I just snipped the flex vent and squeezed it over the flange.  Didn't even use hose clamp.  It stays on just fine for me.  And when you don't want it on, just tug and it's free.


----------



## wood river bbq

On page 21 the use of a water pan was discussed. The WSM guys use one all the time as do I with my Lang.

Here's why it helps with the cook on my Lang stick burner or any stick burner. Water adds humidity to the cook chamber which helps keep the meat from drying out. Water helps stabilize the temp in the cooking chamber and minimizes fluctuations because the water absorbs heat plus the water takes longer to rise and fall than air. Water vapor mixes with the combustion gasses to improve flavor and the water vapor condenses on the meat to make it "sticky" allowing more smoke to adhere and create a nice even smoke ring. Water never rises above 212F and this helps keep a "low & slow" cook temp of 225F to 250F. Always start off with a pan of hot water and place it near the hottest part of you cooker.

To use or not use a water pan is up to the individual pitmaster and the type of cooker he's using.


----------



## bbqdux

Removed..


----------



## bbqdux

> replace the worthless stock temp gauge with a steel piggy and then put a couple new temp gauges in the lower left and right portions of the lid near grate level. the temp gauges are http://www.homedepot.com/p/Brinkmann-Temperature-Gauge-812-7229-S/203016476 and though Brinkmann Support posted in the question/answer section saying that the gauge is not adjustable, they actually are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20140329_184341_zps9lzvueyr.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ kbish
> __ Mar 30, 2014


----------



## kbish

BBQDux said:


> Where did you find the steel pig emblem?


http://www.cookersandgrills.com/our_products.asp

it's towards the bottom of the page. i had to have a piece of all-thread welded to the back of it so i could bolt it to/through the grill


----------



## bbqdux

Awesome! thank you


----------



## 5oclocksomewher

I had bolted angle iron around the outside front and sides of my pit (stainless steel nuts and bolts) and laid nomex 1/8 inch x 1/2 inch gasket tape on top of the angle iron.  For the back I put the angle iron on the inside (under grates) and a flat piece of 1/8 inch welded steel on the outside back (again using stainless steel nuts and bolts).  I then put 1/4 x 1/2 inch nomex gasket on flat welded steel.  I'll get a few picks up in the next day or two.  The angle iron did wonders to straighten the tub out.


----------



## caesars0331

I recently finished my mods and I thought it worth mentioning just _another_ way to seal the cooker.  I used 1/2"x1/2" "u-channel", found at lowes, in lieu of a doubling of angle iron.  I used number 6 x 1/2" stainless screws to attach it, first drilling through both sides of the channel with drill larger than the No 6 screw, then using a step bit to widen the outside hole large enough for the tip of the screwdriver to pass through.  I drilled the pilot holes in the grill with a 9/64" drill.  One length of 5/8" stove gasket from lowes was enough to do the 4 sides of the grill.  The sides and front received the u-channel, while the back received the gasket on the lower tub. 













7.JPG



__ caesars0331
__ Apr 12, 2014


















8.JPG



__ caesars0331
__ Apr 12, 2014


















9.JPG



__ caesars0331
__ Apr 12, 2014


----------



## averagedave

hey guys, maybe the idea of turning the darn thing on  the firebox end, and making it a vertical barrel smoker, will solve all of these problems. the firebox is in the correct position...........the cooking area is directly above  the firebox.                                                 regulate  the fire by using the door & or the original vents

drill bolts through main cooking area, so you can install food racks, on them.

anybody.........????????????????????????


----------



## leadfoot93

I found this forum a few weeks ago. I also have the Char Griller Pro with SFB. I have had it for a year. I just finished up my mods and did my rope gasket like caesar did. I have the shaker basket in the sfb and the dryer vent ready to go for tomorrow.

I had to install a latch on my main grill though, my top never closed the right way and wouldn't sit flush. So I grabbed a latch to pull it down nice and tight. I will post some pictures tomorrow! But great site and glad this topic has been going for years and wont stop!


----------



## wood river bbq

The most significant mods I made to my smoking pro and truly made the most of the baffle and tuning plates and evened my temps from side to side was to install a chimney on the fire box end. I bought a replacement from Char Grill. I kept the other chimney but just closed it off -- it looked like the cooker had dual exhausts!! I felt my problem was that with the tuning plates I re directed the heat/smoke but as soon as it hit the far end of the cook chamber it made a bee line for the chimney. The chimney at the fire box end plus the extension forced the heat/smoke over the product and then out that chimney. This is just my opinion (free advise) and not intended to influence anyone. It's just what worked for me. The product I cooked on the smoking pro, after all the mods, is as good as I now cook on my Lang.


----------



## biguglysmoker

I have not used tuning plates myself but am building a reverse offset smoker of my own. From what I have seen and read in your pictures the plate looks a little long. For ease of holding in place other than bricks or drilling holes. Have you thought about using 1/4 to 3/8 rod tack welded in for the plate to lay on. does look like bricks might block some of the air flow. I used rods to hold my plate in for my build. Made things a lot easier to keep in place.


----------



## leadfoot93

Just wanted to post some pics of the Smoker and the results!













WP_20140511_11_58_47_Pro.jpg



__ leadfoot93
__ May 13, 2014


















WP_20140511_11_58_53_Pro.jpg



__ leadfoot93
__ May 13, 2014


















WP_20140511_11_59_03_Pro.jpg



__ leadfoot93
__ May 13, 2014


















WP_20140511_18_14_56_Pro.jpg



__ leadfoot93
__ May 13, 2014


















WP_20140511_18_17_14_Pro.jpg



__ leadfoot93
__ May 13, 2014


----------



## jarjarchef

Leadfoot93 looks good. 

Where did you get the shaker basket? My FIL has the Outlaw version of the Char griller and was looking to help him make a few mods. He does not want to weld anything this time.


----------



## leadfoot93

Amazon.com ill find the link and post later


----------



## bjlasota

Morning folks,

I’m new here and new to smoking. My wife bought me a Char griller Duo and the side fire box. I’ve been grilling both with propane and charcoal for years. I’ve picked this and multiple other forums apart and still have a few questions hopefully someone can answer. First, my intent isn’t to hack this LONG thread based on the Smokin Pro, but I figured that the duo with the firebox is close to the same. Some are new questions and some based on the mods I’ve seen through this thread. A lot of my questions arise because it seems I have a newer model than some have described on here. So here goes nothing:

The first thing I noticed was the large opening in the grill and SFB sides where they meet. Older models have punch outs, but both my grill and SFB have a bolted on section. I unscrewed and removed both plates, then attached the SFB to the grill chamber. Is there a problem with this opening being so big, does it help better, or should I keep one of the plates on so its basically a damper opening instead of huge open hole?
  
Some say to flip the charcoal tray in the SFB. Well the slide on mine is welded to the slide door and if I were to flip it, it would actually allow air under the plate instead of above where the coals and wood will be. I did notice that mine came with a grate for the coal. This grate sits about midway between the top and bottom of the air intake vent, so I’d assume I don’t have to do any modifications there? I actually found that you flip the grate in the main chamber, not in the SFB. So what does that do? Seams like it would catch the smoke, carry it to the left side of the grill, and straight up the smoke stack without touching the food?
  
I’ve seen a lot of people put dryer vents on their out vent on the top. Anyone get past that curved lip without having a bunch of curse words?
  
The grill when put together without the SFB has a BEEFY handle for moving the grill around. When adding the SFB, that handle has to be removed and you install a small handle onto SFB for moving. This handle seems tiny and even though I tightened everything snug, the SFB still flexes a bit when picking up. I feel like it’s going to break. Thoughts?
  
Is there any seasoning I need to do to any part of the grill or SFB to prolong it’s life. The grills grates are all glass coated so I’d assume no seasoning there. I’ll only be using the SFB as a smoking chamber so I won’t be cooking food in it. Has anyone ever “seasoned” the whole grill to prevent corrosion or is there anything I can do to get the most out of this grill and smoker?
I’ve seen from the Smokin pro, some people put 1/16” plate lips around the edges of the lids to prevent smoke escape. I’ve noticed on my newer model that there already is lips. So I’ll probably go at it 1 round and check where everything leaks.
Lastly and this probably belongs in the recipe thread, but anyone have any good starter recipes that I can’t screw up this weekend? I get pretty creative when it comes to grilling, so I’m hoping I’ll have as much fun with smoking. Woods to use, marinades, etc?
I just got this, but I’d like to have it up and running by this weekend for Memorial day. Plan on picking up loads of meat tomorrow to start marinating and would love to start smoking Saturday morning if possible. Thanks for all the help in advance. And sorry if these have already been answered elsewhere.


----------



## daveomak

bjlasota said:


> Morning folks,
> 
> 
> I’m new here and new to smoking. My wife bought me a Char griller Duo and the side fire box. I’ve been grilling both with propane and charcoal for years. I’ve picked this and multiple other forums apart and still have a few questions hopefully someone can answer. First, my intent isn’t to hack this LONG thread based on the Smokin Pro, but I figured that the duo with the firebox is close to the same. Some are new questions and some based on the mods I’ve seen through this thread. A lot of my questions arise because it seems I have a newer model than some have described on here. So here goes nothing:
> 
> 
> The first thing I noticed was the large opening in the grill and SFB sides where they meet. Older models have punch outs, but both my grill and SFB have a bolted on section. I unscrewed and removed both plates, then attached the SFB to the grill chamber. Is there a problem with this opening being so big, does it help better, or should I keep one of the plates on so its basically a damper opening instead of huge open hole?
> *
> The large opening will improve air/heat/smoke flow to the CC....*
> 
> 
> Some say to flip the charcoal tray in the SFB. Well the slide on mine is welded to the slide door and if I were to flip it, it would actually allow air under the plate instead of above where the coals and wood will be. I did notice that mine came with a grate for the coal. This grate sits about midway between the top and bottom of the air intake vent, so I’d assume I don’t have to do any modifications there? I actually found that you flip the grate in the main chamber, not in the SFB. So what does that do? Seams like it would catch the smoke, carry it to the left side of the grill, and straight up the smoke stack without touching the food?
> 
> *With air flow in the FB, too much air flow above the heat source could cool the CC and not allow for desired temps...  Skifreak did a mod on his smoker to allow for adjustment above the heat source.... *
> 
> View media item 312435
> 
> I’ve seen a lot of people put dryer vents on their out vent on the top. Anyone get past that curved lip without having a bunch of curse words?
> 
> *If you are not adding a RF plate, you may not need to extend the stack lower in the CC.....*
> 
> 
> The grill when put together without the SFB has a BEEFY handle for moving the grill around. When adding the SFB, that handle has to be removed and you install a small handle onto SFB for moving. This handle seems tiny and even though I tightened everything snug, the SFB still flexes a bit when picking up. I feel like it’s going to break. Thoughts?
> 
> *Add additional bolts to the FB/CC connection... that could help.....*
> 
> 
> Is there any seasoning I need to do to any part of the grill or SFB to prolong it’s life. The grills grates are all glass coated so I’d assume no seasoning there. I’ll only be using the SFB as a smoking chamber so I won’t be cooking food in it. Has anyone ever “seasoned” the whole grill to prevent corrosion or is there anything I can do to get the most out of this grill and smoker?
> 
> *Some folks Food Grade oil the entire smoker to help reduce rusting...*
> 
> 
> I’ve seen from the Smokin pro, some people put 1/16” plate lips around the edges of the lids to prevent smoke escape. I’ve noticed on my newer model that there already is lips. So I’ll probably go at it 1 round and check where everything leaks.
> 
> *If you find leaks, high temp silicone works well.....  squeeze it on the lid, place plastic wrap on the smoker body and close the lid... in 24 hours or so, open and remove the plastic wrap...   form fit seal...*
> 
> 
> Lastly and this probably belongs in the recipe thread, but anyone have any good starter recipes that I can’t screw up this weekend? I get pretty creative when it comes to grilling, so I’m hoping I’ll have as much fun with smoking. Woods to use, marinades, etc?
> 
> I just got this, but I’d like to have it up and running by this weekend for Memorial day. Plan on picking up loads of meat tomorrow to start marinating and would love to start smoking Saturday morning if possible. Thanks for all the help in advance. And sorry if these have already been answered elsewhere.





*Get a good thermometer to monitor CC temps.....*


Dave


----------



## bjlasota

I'm a homebrewer, and as such, I have multiple long stemmed thermometers. Would it be ok for this weekend to close the lid on top of them(one on each end of the CC) with the gauge on the outside?


----------



## daveomak

bjlasota said:


> I'm a homebrewer, and as such, I have multiple long stemmed thermometers. Would it be ok for this weekend to close the lid on top of them(one on each end of the CC) with the gauge on the outside?



Drill holes....  those therms have a wire running down the stem..   you do not want to bend or crimp the stem....


----------



## femurphy77

BJ, in response to your question about what to do about a handle after adding a SFB to your chargriller, this was my solution;













IMG_0217.jpg



__ femurphy77
__ May 21, 2014






I don't have a current photo but I finally finished it up with a handle on the end of the frame next to the sfb to make it easy to move around.  The frame is 2x2 steel tubing, the big wheels are replacement wheels for a lawnmower, the swivels are something I picked up at a fleamarket.  The swivel tires are air filled so I occasionally have to top off the air pressure when it gets hard to push.  Other than that the cart works great but I would strongly suggest leaving about 6" of ground clearance, that'll make it easier to push across grass.  I'll get some more current photos and discuss the mods I've made to it since this photo was taken.  It's obvious looking at the fire box that in this picture I had yet to do a smoke in it.


----------



## jonisheldon

Would you please explain what a turning plate is and how to use it? New to smoking and trying to figure out the mods that need to be done to my Brinkman smoker. Thanks.


----------



## 5oclocksomewher

jonisheldon said:


> Would you please explain what a turning plate is and how to use it? New to smoking and trying to figure out the mods that need to be done to my Brinkman smoker. Thanks.



Lot of guys use them for even temps across the grate.  The firebox side is much hotter without them.  In order to even out my temps I bought a baffle online.  The guy's name that makes them is Ernie.  His website is www.kickassbbqsouth.com.  Buy a baffle from him and you'll have even temps a across your grate.













image.jpg



__ 5oclocksomewher
__ May 24, 2014







One other thing that helps is a charcoal basket.












image.jpg



__ 5oclocksomewher
__ May 24, 2014


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## daveomak

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/54542/building-an-italian-offset-smoker


A good explanation of smokers....


----------



## boudin4evr

this is my first ever post, I would love to see the above mod pictures

thanks


----------



## boudin4evr

what is the most economical and best thermo's out there? I'll do that first and I am getting

my duo 5050 with SFB for Fathers Day! Ill season it and figure out what do yall recommend to smoke forst for a total newbie?

Where do you guys get your wood? any mailorder sites?

thanks


----------



## pugettarheel

It seems to me that all of you have gone to great lengths to make these smokers work.  Aren't there smokers on the market, obviously more expensive, that would work with out all of these changes?


----------



## cliffcarter

My CharGriller works fine and I have made almost no changes except raise the fire grate and take the guts out of the POS factory supplied therm. I also mostly cook with wood splits, which is the fuel these pits were made to use. These are not made to be a "set and forget" type pit like a WSM or a UDS, therefore people go thru all the mods to make them so. They work just fine if you are willing to tend the fire.


----------



## camper4lyfe

pugettarheel said:


> It seems to me that all of you have gone to great lengths to make these smokers work.  Aren't there smokers on the market, obviously more expensive, that would work with out all of these changes?


Sometimes modding and tweaking is half the fun.


----------



## dilettit

https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourcei...558&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=char griller mods

Has anyone ever tried or looked into these?

http://www.deejayssmokepit.net/Downloads_files/CharGrilleMods.pdf


----------



## backyard smokin

Well I got my CG modded up and thought I would share the pics. The only things I have done differently than most others are, I installed the channel for the lid gasket to sit in, is on the lid. I personally just didn't like the look of it being attached to the body. Also I had a extra thermometer so I punched out the knock-out in the SFB and put a thermometer in there as well. I used 2 of the longer bolts in the top of the SFB for the charcoal tray to rest on and a brick on the other end to level it out. The only thing I have left to do is drill out for the probe thermometer wire to go thru when needed and install the "Bigfoot" wheel kit or I kinda liked the idea of mounting it on a garden wagon too. Now I just gotta wait for my charcoal basket to be made and it's time to see what this baby will do. Thanks to all who have shared their mods on here. 













20140614_170939.jpg



__ backyard smokin
__ Jun 14, 2014


















20140614_171053.jpg



__ backyard smokin
__ Jun 14, 2014


















20140614_171013.jpg



__ backyard smokin
__ Jun 14, 2014


















20140614_170830.jpg



__ backyard smokin
__ Jun 14, 2014


















20140614_171128.jpg



__ backyard smokin
__ Jun 14, 2014


----------



## coyote-1

the duster said:


> [SIZE=16pt]I have read through all seventeen pages a few times now and I have seen a varying amount of fuel usage.  What has everyone found to be their average fuel uses over a six hour smoke for warm temps, cold temps and windy temps and with what mods you have made?  I only have so much time so I can only do a mod or two at a time so I am trying to figure out which ones will minimize fuel usage and then I will move to evening out the temps in a few months. Thanks in advance and you all have helped me out so much. [/SIZE]



My fuel usage is: one mound of ROyalOak hardwood charcoal, followed by as many logs as it takes. The last full load of ribs took about five hours total burn, and that was three logs (two cherry, one maple) after the initial coals.


----------



## coyote-1

pugettarheel said:


> It seems to me that all of you have gone to great lengths to make these smokers work.  Aren't there smokers on the market, obviously more expensive, that would work with out all of these changes?



Actually, having done many of the mods I also got rid of most of  them. The baffle, for example. While it does serve to even out temps a bit it also sends waaaay too much of the heat out the top of the firebox instead of into the cooking chamber. Getting rid of that baffle reduced my fuel usage substantially while having zero negative impact on the quality of my product. I also found myself using logs once the fire gets going, so I've ditched the coal basket. And I found that a bit of smoke leaking from the sides is actually a good thing, as it accomplishes exactly the same effect as bringing the chimney down to grate level!!

So the mods I do still use are:

Dual good thermometers

Remote thermometer for long overnight smokes

Flex tube to bring chimney down to grate level. Very important mod, very cheap to do.

A full size 18"x26" steel sheet pan. This, skewed slightly underneath the cooking grates, does the job of both the baffle plus the tuning plates more effectively while also catching most of the drippings. I have it sitting on bricks.


----------



## boudin4evr

I just got mine together and seasoned, char griller duo with SFB

my lid on SFB is far away from closing, it has about a 1" gap !!!


----------



## boudin4evr

boudin4evr said:


> I just got mine together and seasoned, char griller duo with SFB
> 
> my lid on SFB is far away from closing, it has about a 1" gap !!!


professional char griller is gonna send me another one! Awesome customer service!


----------



## boudin4evr

after the initial seasoning burn in, is it ready to use? I see no mods on gas side, guess all is ok there!? I will not use gas grill much, but its there!


----------



## rata

Hey boudin4evr,

I did a mod on the gas side....check this post:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/54285/char-griller-duo/20#post_855540


----------



## boudin4evr

today is the very first ever use of my grill

very disappointed

Im doing ribs as I trype this

I cant get the fire to go out in the smoker box! I started with regular coal in my chimney lighter I had a basket of lump coal in box

I poured lit coals over lump and added mesquite chunks

I cant get fore to go out! it bubbled my paint! I seasoned inside and outs on my grill before use! HELP


----------



## boudin4evr

how many of yalls paint bubbled off from first day of use? I seasoned it very well

inside and out! I guess ill just steel brush it and spray some rustoleum on it?


----------



## camper4lyfe

Seasoning won't have any effect on the paint. The paint bubbled because it got too hot. If you had your dampers fully closed, you have a bad air leak somewhere.


----------



## boudin4evr

I think I cooked my ribs too long! super dark outside like it scorched outside

after peeling that away, they were tasty! I know its alot to learn, even the bones of the ribs were soft! I did the 3 2 1 method

maybe too much apple juice? i smoked for 3 hours, mopped and sprayed apple juice on both sides then foiled and smoked for 2 more

then removed and put it in an ice chest, it was wrapped in a towel

the meat is very tender under the hard outer


----------



## boudin4evr

both dampers were wide open 

I only have the factory thermo

just wanted to smoke something!

My fire wouldnt go out! it was an actual fire for a long time!

and it is a wood chunk hog!

super air leaks! lid doesnt close very well

it has an inch gap on bottom of SFB (char griller replacing it)

any other ideas?


----------



## camper4lyfe

What were your temps? Sounds too high. Next time close the damper on the side fire box. You were feeding it too much air.


----------



## boudin4evr

on the original crappy thermo, it was fluctuating from 200  -250, it was taking lots of coal and wood! 

does anybody have pictures or videos on how it should look in smoker box? the only wood that I could find was chunks, no actual logs

i know that will help! also, do yall start with lots of lump coal with lit coal on top then add wood?


----------



## cliffcarter

boudin4evr said:


> on the original crappy thermo, it was fluctuating from 200  -250, it was taking lots of coal and wood!
> 
> *does anybody have pictures or videos on how it should look in smoker box?* the only wood that I could find was chunks, no actual logs
> 
> i know that will help! also, do yall start with lots of lump coal with lit coal on top then add wood?


I start with a couple of fully lit chimneys of lit lump, I preheat splits on top of the SFB in warm weather and in the SFB away from the fire in winter. Add a split as needed to maintain cooking temps.

If the factory therm was registering 250° then the grate temp was probably 300°or so, that combined with the sugar in the rub and apple juice most likely gave you the dark crust.













BBQ2013 (16).JPG



__ cliffcarter
__ Jul 21, 2013


----------



## boudin4evr

cliffcarter said:


> I start with a couple of fully lit chimneys of lit lump, I preheat splits on top of the SFB in warm weather and in the SFB away from the fire in winter. Add a split as needed to maintain cooking temps.
> 
> If the factory therm was registering 250° then the grate temp was probably 300°or so, that combined with the sugar in the rub and apple juice most likely gave you the dark crust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BBQ2013 (16).JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ cliffcarter
> __ Jul 21, 2013


I MUST have had way too much coals and wood in mine!


----------



## boudin4evr

fire pit.jpg



__ boudin4evr
__ Jun 19, 2014


















paintbbq.jpg



__ boudin4evr
__ Jun 19, 2014


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## boudin4evr

what brand of thermometers do you guys use at grate level instead of factory unit? where do I get them?

thanks


----------



## boudin4evr

I just found some on River country.com I bought 2 2" thermometers for my duo


----------



## camper4lyfe

boudin4evr said:


> fire pit.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ boudin4evr
> __ Jun 19, 2014
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> paintbbq.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ boudin4evr
> __ Jun 19, 2014


Definitely too hot from the looks of it.


----------



## boudin4evr

so, muchless coal? I was feeding it wood and coal because temps on original thermo were low

then the fire wouldnt go out! I have 2 thermometers on order, I will steel brush the paint and re paint

and I need to order some 3" flex duct from home depot or Lowes, none where I live! 

that should help!


----------



## boudin4evr

so yall run low or no intake on sfb and how much on damper?


----------



## cliffcarter

Exhaust stack wide open, air intake on SFB usually wide open as well, but I am burning all sticks after the initial charcoal for start up.

when I was using charcoal for heat and wood for smoke I opened or closed the SFB intakes depending on what temp I was shooting for. After a while you will notice that each cook will have a temp "sweet spot" that your temps will hover around. You will be wise to let it ride there.


----------



## 5oclocksomewher

image.jpg



__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Jun 10, 2014


















image.jpg



__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Jun 10, 2014


















image.jpg



__ 5oclocksomewher
__ Jun 10, 2014







I load up my charcoal basket and put 1 or 2 small splits of peach wood on top.  Turns out some great q everytime.  I have the chargriller outlaw w/ side firebox.  My paint bubbles almost everytime I use.  I have a small brush to clean it off and hit it with some high heat rustoleum. Takes about 45 seconds.  I keep it covered when not in use.  It's not a lang but it more than meets my needs.


----------



## 5oclocksomewher

boudin4evr said:


> on the original crappy thermo, it was fluctuating from 200  -250, it was taking lots of coal and wood!
> does anybody have pictures or videos on how it should look in smoker box? the only wood that I could find was chunks, no actual logs
> i know that will help! also, do yall start with lots of lump coal with lit coal on top then add wood?



Here's a link to one of my smokes.  Hope it helps.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/162604/chargriller-outlaw-smokes-pork-butt


----------



## jarjarchef

cliffcarter said:


> Exhaust stack wide open, air intake on SFB usually wide open as well, but I am burning all sticks after the initial charcoal for start up.
> when I was using charcoal for heat and wood for smoke I opened or closed the SFB intakes depending on what temp I was shooting for. After a while you will notice that each cook will have a temp "sweet spot" that your temps will hover around. You will be wise to let it ride there.



Very similar to Cliff on this one. Stack wide open, carcoal to start, sticks to maintain and I will adjust my firebox vent as needed. But you will find your smoker will find a temp range it likes. So I just work with it and adjust my times.

I got some aftermarket therms from Lowes. Just calibrated them every so often. I was in a rush when I got them.


----------



## 5oclocksomewher

boudin4evr said:


> so yall run low or no intake on sfb and how much on damper?



Here's a link from one of my first smokes on my chargriller.  Got some good advice from 
Gary S and JarJar.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/160543/chargriller-outlaw-2nd-smoke


----------



## webdaddy

camper4lyfe said:


> Sometimes modding and tweaking is half the fun.


Exactly!


----------



## lemans

boudin4evr said:


> how many of yalls paint bubbled off from first day of use? I seasoned it very well
> inside and out! I guess ill just steel brush it and spray some rustoleum on it?


Ya know. My SFB had a sticker on it that I couldn't get off but the first burn took that off and the paint.  So instead of a steel brush and rustoleom I use veg oil 
After each use. Rub it all over the pit while it's warm.. No rust just a nice gleam!!


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## boudin4evr

That's what I did! Kinda wish whole grill was like that shiny gleam!


----------



## fpmich

Yep, you are "never" going to keep your paint looking spiffy in a char-griller type unit.  I lightly rub mine with paper towels and peanut oil on start up, and do the same during the cool down.  The SFB is brown on top instead of black, but there is no rust yet.  The rest of unit is shiny black. About every 2nd smoke, I also wipe a very light coating over the whole unit, in case they're any pin holes un-noticed in paint.  I usually just use the towel from wiping the sfb for the rest of it.  Already has enough oil on it for a light coat.


----------



## coyote-1

fpmich said:


> Yep, you are "never" going to keep your paint looking spiffy in a char-griller type unit.  I lightly rub mine with paper towels and peanut oil on start up, and do the same during the cool down.  It's brown on top instead of black, but there is no rust yet.  About every 2nd smoke, I also wipe a very light coating over the whole unit, in case they're any pin holes un-noticed in paint.  I usually just use the towel from wiping the sfb for the rest of it.  Already has enough oil on it for a light coat.


I seasoned mine, got many smokes before I needed to do anything. I now scrape it down every 5-6 uses, and then use high heat black spray paint to touch it up. Working well, no rust.


----------



## tomcat66

I bought 2 rolls on Ebay for $13.63 each and free shipping. Good thing I did because 1 roll didn't get the job done.


----------



## friskiedgrrl

I can only see the last photo.


----------



## boudin4evr

2 questions:

Im considering Jeff's rub recipe

I live in Mayberry with only a walmart

are all of his ingredients available there or does it call

for something special or hard to find?

2

beer can chicken

what times are yall smoking them at?

brining? seasoning?

thanks


----------



## 5oclocksomewher

boudin4evr said:


> 2 questions:
> 
> Im considering Jeff's rub recipe
> I live in Mayberry with only a walmart
> are all of his ingredients available there or does it call
> for something special or hard




You probably have all the ingredients in your cabinet right now.   I bought the rub and sauce and have no regrets.  Moded the recipe a little for my own preference.  You also get a Texas rub recipe that I used on brisket.  All great stuff.  So simple, yet so so good!!!!


----------



## bbrown7602

20140712_190913.jpg



__ bbrown7602
__ Jul 13, 2014






Vice grips made the job pretty easy.













20140712_191349.jpg



__ bbrown7602
__ Jul 13, 2014


















20140712_192926.jpg



__ bbrown7602
__ Jul 13, 2014


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## cliffcarter

Hey everyone, there's a new group at SMF dedicated to CharGriller owners

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/groups/show/46/chargriller-owners-group

Come join us.

Cliff


----------



## misterc01

I decided to try the smoking thing, but did not want to dive headfirst in to it until I had some idea of what it was all about or if I would even like doing.  I did lot of reading, including great info here, and had an epiphany - so I bought a Char Griller Side Fire Box (SFB) 2424 . I figured it would let me smoke at least a brisket,   pork butt, and possible a small slab of ribs and a few chicken thighs   - one at a time. I also decided it needed a few mods.   I decided the grills were lower than I wanted them, so I modified the inside by raising the sides 1 1.2 inches, added a couple of removable heat deflectors heat deflectors and had a nice looking small smoker with room for a water pan and a chip box. I bought an inexpensive grill thermometer, calibrated it by  placing it in boiling water (it was close enough to leave it alone), then mounted it just above grill height (food level) with the thermometer oriented so 200 degrees was straight up so I could monitor the temp at a distance with just a glance. My first smoking attempt, a brisket, was, in the end, an acceptable shakedown run. There were a few leaks I plugged with aluminum foil, and I even did a quick refuel with lit charcoal and chips. I was pleased with how well the thermometer worked, progress checking and the myriad of details with my first time   smoking something. I later ordered some FDA approved food-safe high temp silicon and sealed around the lid and a couple other small places there were leaks. From my second run, I ended up using our gas grill with some ribs which proved too big for the smoker. I   used an inexpensive grill-top surface thermometer. In both attempts, I used a generic dry rub recipe with  a couple additions, some generic BBQ sauces during the last 20 minutes So final analysis: I am hooked! Smoking is work, but fun work, and the end result is worth the time and effort. The ribs were great. The brisket was edible. Okay - the brisket - I followed a general cooking time based on weight formula and cooked it longer than I should have. It was a little dried out, but  everyone said in spite of an incredibly thick bark (you know what I really  mean) the meat itself was delicious, just a little dry.   I must add that to keep the cost down, I used a couple gift cards, so my out of pocket expenses was about six dollars for the smoker and all the mods.   

 .  













IMG_1571.jpg



__ misterc01
__ May 10, 2014





          













IMG_1708.jpg



__ misterc01
__ May 10, 2014






Next up is another brisket, with the sealed leaks and a Redi Chek 73 for better temp monitoring. I am looking forward to a few more shake down runs and then smoking on a regular basis!


----------



## bbqjanto2015

boudin4evr said:


> how many of yalls paint bubbled off from first day of use? I seasoned it very well
> 
> inside and out! I guess ill just steel brush it and spray some rustoleum on it?


mine did on the SFB, even after applying Rustoleum rated for 1200 degrees.  Apparently the bubbling and peeling is normal


----------



## misterc01

Never a bit of a problem. inside or out and even on the charcoal tray. Several light coats rather than slathering it on might have made a difference.


----------



## boudin4evr

any body uses the grillgrates flameless grates on the gas side of their pit? debating on getting some

another question, on smoking briskets, do yall put temp probe horizontally or vertically to check temps?


----------



## boudin4evr

what are you guys fire box dimensions? will 12x12x6 fit in smoker box?


----------



## cliffcarter

boudin4evr said:


> what are you guys fire box dimensions? will 12x12x6 fit in smoker box?


Yes.


----------



## lemans

Given up trying to paint the SFB. Just keep it oiled so it doesn't rust


----------



## meltyface

1417035508875.jpg



__ meltyface
__ Nov 26, 2014







here's a look at the tuning plate mod made with aluminum foil I've been using....it distributes the smoke evenly but I'm having an issue getting the heat up with the baffle on the right.....but without it that side gets WAY to hot.....not sure what to do other than make bigger holes ?


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## gary s

Hmmmmmm


----------



## meltyface

I need a little help.  Does anyone know what I can use, or where I can buy something to control the heat in my smoker better.  I tried making a makeshift tuning plate out of foil but that prevented a lot of heat from even getting into the chamber.  I am wanting to cook a whole pig but the SFB area is way hotter than the chimney side.  I know this is a known problem, I just need a fix to this, so that I can get fairly even HIGH heats and smoke throughout.  Thank you.


----------



## webdaddy

I took the grill base, slid the exterior base/legs from the fire box over it, flipped it over and placed inside the chamber. Very easy and does a great job disturbing the heat.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/58778/char-griller-smokin-pro-with-firebox-mods/300#post_842411













IMG_8851.jpg



__ webdaddy
__ Feb 20, 2015


















IMG_8852.jpg



__ webdaddy
__ Feb 20, 2015


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## webdaddy

BTW - There is a little bit of heat escaping from the gap between the plate and the side of the chamber. I fill a small disposable bread loaf tray with apple juice and place it next to the gap on top of the plate but underneath the grill. Works great!


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## lemans

image.jpg



__ lemans
__ Feb 20, 2015





   Horizon plate 16 inch


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## kbish

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/58778/char-griller-smokin-pro-with-firebox-mods/400#post_1154207

^ my original set of mods ^. sad to say that it has taken me a year to get back to the smoker to do anything more to it. we have 5 kids (2-15 years old) as well as I started a new job shortly after my first post. at any rate, here's the few other things i've done:

1) replaced the plastic wheels with some all metal ones, swapped them off a another smoker my brother in law had and was selling. it raised the right side up about 5/8" so in order to level out the left side i used a few pieces of threaded pvc inserted into the legs then bolted though the legs to hold it in place. it gives me the ability to have adjustable legs on the left side now (no pics)

2) used some big green egg replacement gasket on the lid of the main chamber, just wrapped around the lip to seal the front as it didn't have much of a gap (no pics)

3) added a latch on the lid of the side fire box so now it keeps the lid fairly tight. i'd like to find a nice high temp gasket to line the area around the lid to finish of that seal

4) got a piece of 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide steel flat stock and drilled a few holes through it and the rear of the lid. then got a piece of high-ish temp food grade tubing from a home brew supply store then slit it lengthwise. i sandwiched one side of the tubing in between the outside of the rear lid and the new steel flat stock. it locks the tubing in place to now act as a flexible rubber gasket for the backside of the lid













A7575DC4-D875-40BB-AC70-7127F675336B_zpsozxyxwnw.j



__ kbish
__ Mar 19, 2015


















DD2B159E-82A4-4DBD-AD36-EBAEC0962DBD_zpsqgqjmpev.j



__ kbish
__ Mar 19, 2015


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## gary s

OK  now where is the smoke ???

Gary


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## kbish

Smoking some corned beef this weekend


----------



## kbish

Pork Spare Ribs 





Corned Beef 



The rest is wrapped in foil in the fridge.


----------



## gary s

Nice, Looks Great    
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Gary


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## fpmich

THAT is one AWSOME looking brisket!     And I thought my 1st one was good.  LOL 

It was good but didn't have the look of yours.  Great Job!


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## misterc01

I found that food grade FDA approved High temp silicon sealer works great to take care of the little gaps here and there.


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## bbquy

Nice job!

Love me some brisket! Yum!


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## alwaysbesmokin

Sweet mods Mossy.


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## captainwoody

Here's a question, Can you just take the factory adjustable grate in the barrel and put it high over the damper to use as a baffle?


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## cliffcarter

CaptainWoody said:


> Here's a question, Can you just take the factory adjustable grate in the barrel and put it high over the damper to use as a baffle?


Yes. You may have to drill some holes in it to make it work well. If you go back through this thread I think you will find a pic or two of this "mod".


----------



## captainwoody

cliffcarter said:


> Yes. You may have to drill some holes in it to make it work well. If you go back through this thread I think you will find a pic or two of this "mod".


Thanks cliffcarter!


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## norcaljimi

Hello everyone. New to this site, and just got my CG 5050 with sfb. I've been going through your guys past notes and I'm getting ready to start my mods.


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## hogtownsmoke

I tried it without drilling and it gave me an area on the side of the pit away from the SFB slightly hotter than the close side. Could be good for doing higher temp smokes on one side with lower ones on the other. But then again I've only done one smoke


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## lemans

Invest in a 16 inch horizon convection plate
And when you order have them cut off 2 inches so it will fit the 5050













image.jpg



__ lemans
__ Apr 15, 2015


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## boudin4evr

wanting to do a brisket

I made a 12x12x6 basket

to start a brisket and let it go through most of the night, how do you keep temps up and steady?

mostly lump and how much wood?

any tips?


----------



## cliffcarter

boudin4evr said:


> wanting to do a brisket
> 
> I made a 12x12x6 basket
> 
> to start a brisket and let it go through most of the night, how do you keep temps up and steady?
> 
> mostly lump and how much wood?
> 
> any tips?


You will need to refuel a few times and you will need to monitor the fire.

I suggest you start with something less ambitious until you know how well your set up works or barring that cook the brisket during the day so you can monitor the pit rather than sleep.

If you start at 5AM and keep the pit temp in the 275° range you should be able to cook your brisket and be done at or near dinner time IMHO. YMMV.


----------



## misterc01

How long have you been smoking meats and how experienced are you with your smoker, fuel types, etc? It makes a huge difference and if  this is your first brisket,  cliffcarter has your answer - do it during the day. I would add, monitor you temps regularly (when I  started I checked them every fifteen minutes, less as I got more experience). and hopefully you have or are keeping going to keep a log so you can work out  the quirks of your equipment and fuel types. You will most likely have to add more  of whatever you are using for your smoke flavor (Apple, mesquite or whatever) for at least the first three hours unless you are using enough chunks to last that long. The size/weight of your brisket also makes a difference. Then there is your heat source - I have used a mix of good old Kingston  regular, competition and lump  in various proportions to get the temp up and steady for  reasonably long periods, but still have to add every so often and what I add depends on whether I need to extend or raise the temp, etc. A wireless temp  (meat and grill temp) system can be valuable if you want to have them wake you up when they change  and the smoker needs tending:-)

Bottom line -  it is not a throw it in the smoker, go to bed, wake yup and it is done process. Good luck!

Pete


----------



## fpmich

> Bottom line -  it is not a throw it in the smoker, go to bed, wake yup and it is done process. Good luck!


*Amen to that! * The CG needs tending for everything,  But that is part of the reason I like it.  Keeps me occupied.

Also part of the reason of why I hate it some days.  No naps!  LOL


----------



## wdoss89

So just wondering....I've read over almost every article, PDF, and story on modifications that people have done. My thing that I have ran into was a poorly taken care of smoker from a craigslist ad. Talked the guy way down because I knew the main chamber was ok but the SFB needed replaced. I got a new SFB bolted it on and the crapoy tac welds on the end cap and rolled metal body broke! Like broke off so that brings me to my question....
If I weld the whole thing would that help with some of the sealing on the SFB itself?













20150908_172906.jpg



__ wdoss89
__ Sep 10, 2015


----------



## misterc01

Depending on how you  have it welded - yes it should. I am a big fan of using USDA approved high temperature silicon as a sealant, especially the SFB door as well as the joint between the SFB and main chamber. .


----------



## james breedlove

whats a smoke shack how does it work


----------



## jarjarchef

James Breedlove said:


> whats a smoke shack how does it work


A smoke shack is a brand of electric smoker. There are also old school smoke shacks for doing hams where they have a shack with a small fire and they cold smoke for days..... Neither are really what this thread is about.


----------



## jaburr25

Warthog said:


> Here are some mods I did to my pro.
> 
> 
> First one here is the *vent extension*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the *SFB* with the *Lowes Basket*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dual *Thermometers* at grate level
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vent extension* with *rain guard*


what kind a basket is that exactly? I mean original purpose.


----------



## cliffcarter

Jaburr25 said:


> what kind a basket is that exactly? I mean original purpose.


I think it is called a vegetable shaker basket, IDK if Lowes has them anymore. I did pick up a couple of similar ones at Ocean State Job Lots this past year.


----------



## travisty

I know this was a long time ago, but are you saying that you used the baking tray inside of the charcoal/smoke box, and not inside of the grill itself? I thought about trying something like that too, and wondered if it is worth the try


----------



## travisty

Okay!

So I had a smoking I wanted to do this weekend and read this forum a couple days before. I am handy but don't have a ton of tools at my disposal so I went CHEAP and EASY. Perhaps if you are like me or not even handy at all you try these mods.

First I purchased this heat plate from Lowes for like $18:













Two.JPG



__ travisty
__ Nov 16, 2015






It was all prepackaged, plus is has the slots so smoke can get through evenly.

It had an extension piece which made it a bit long, so I just used the extension piece block some of the heat directly form the opening initially (as pictured) but ended up moving it to the top rack of the grill in hopes it may help keep/ reflect some of the heat from up in the top of the grill down. Though it may have done nothing up there.













Four.JPG



__ travisty
__ Nov 16, 2015






There were 2 screws sticking out from above the hole so used those to hold e right side of the heat plate, then used the legs it came with on the other side. it had a very slight slope down from the opening.

The second mod I performed today was also just as basic. I found a stainless steel wire basket also at lowes in the plumbing section, its supposed to be for stackable storage. I was originally planning to get a sheet of the steel lath stuff that others have done and fabricated a basket, but this $8 solution suited my better. I then used a cast iron picture holder thing I had lying around the house, basically it is just a # (hashtag) shaped piece of cast iron, and it was the perfect size to brace between the sides of the smoke box to hold the basket about 4 inches off the bottom:













one.JPG



__ travisty
__ Nov 16, 2015
__ 1






So this is what all the mods I I did looked like:













Three.JPG



__ travisty
__ Nov 16, 2015
__ 1






The other 2 things I added was the dryer vent mod, and I also added 2 new Webber Brand temperature gauges which I drilled in 5 inches into each side, and 4 inches up from the grate. Unlike others I actually found my stock gauge on the smoker side to be fairly accurate and I put in a poulder gauge right next to it on my last smoke and they were always fairly close, so it served well on this as a good indicator of the temp higher up in the box. 

Now for how it all worked:

The Heat plate seemed to do its job effectively and the temp across both sides of the box was within a couple degrees almost the entire time. I did remove it for 20 minutes or so just to see if it was working and the right side gauge jumped from the 225 it had been at to 320 and the left gauge dropped to below 200.

The coal basket seemed to work well as the co9als were staying well lit and not getting all stuffed up. I did have to empty out the ash tray about mid smoke as it was getting a bit full in there.

At this point I am not certain that the dryer hose did anything at all, because the grill is not well sealed the smoke was just coming out of EVERYWHERE! I have plans to do the fiberglass seal and some other mods in the near future to remedy that, but again, I don't think the hose mod by itself is worth the effort.

Unfortunately I was too distracted by actually chopping up and eating the Shoulder and Ribs I smoked on her this weekend to snap some pictures, but they were beyond beautiful!

Now the problems: With the current mods really it was tem control that was the success, but I was only able to get the thing to hoover at about 210 no matter what I did in the fire box. I tried everything I could think of but it stayed at a constant 210, one thing I did to remedy this was occasionally taking a handful of red coals and throwing them into the corners of the grill, this brought the temp up to a fairly steady 225, but I literally sat an manned this thing for the entire 8 hours that I had the shoulder in (and the ribs did the 2-2-1 method) 

I am sort of in between here, because now looking back I think it was all worth it for the food I got, but because of the time and attention it took I really felt like I had put in an 8 hour work day. So im thinking, "hmmmm... should I spend another $xxx on getting this thing slightly more acceptable to control but putting in some more mods, or should I just consider it a grill alone, and buy a base/mid range electric smoker?" I don't have the answer yet, other than to say I guess im sort of excited at the prospect of seeing how well I can jimmy rig this thing which may carry its own satisfactions.


----------



## cliffcarter

Next time load that basket with unlit briquettes, then dump a fully lit chimney of Royal Oak lump charcoal on top to start the fire. You should be able to get 250° or higher quite easily. You may also find that leaving the ash drawer open to get more airflow will help getting the temp up. I am of the opinion that the dryer vent mod should not be done, instead extend the stack down to 6-8 inches above the cooking grate for better airflow.


----------



## travisty

Thank You!


----------



## wdoss89

So the biggest thing I have found being the problem with the Char-Griller is the thin metal that is used to manufacture them. The solution that I have found all started with basic bath towels. And let me to discover a non fiberglass Welding blanket. It is a 3/16 of an inch thick thermo felt material. So basically what I've done is insulate outside the smoker to help in heat recovery and stable temperatures. The link below is a thread that I started discussing the options out there for this exact thing.



http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/236268/insulating-a-char-griller/20#post_1487082


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## whiskeyboyz

go to www,kickassbbqsouth.com and check out Mister Baffler. Many have had great success with my baffle


----------



## workedtheworld

Totally agree with insulation.  I used some fiberglass house insulation - 2 1/2 inch - and put a sheet of galvanized duct metal over it on a little New Braunfels offset.  See the attached photo. This cut fuel use by two thirds, ash buildup by the same, reduced inside temperature variations by three fourths, and made the unit more stable with outside temperature changes.  The other day, I saw a Treagar smoker in Ruff's BBQ Shop in Golden, CO, that has an insulating blanket with the Traegar name over it.  They has used it a lot by the smoke marks on the outside.  

The plastic coating over the insulation melted but the sheet metal supports it.  I screwed it down with drywall screws.  It has worked real well for three years.  

Good luck.  I can give you some thoughts on how I did it if you want here in comments or at [email protected].  













IMG_3892 Full final outside adj.jpg



__ workedtheworld
__ Jul 5, 2015


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## gocatsbbn

What about tin foil to line the lid and bottom with for heat retention? Or put lava rocks in the bottom. Couldn't hurt.


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## beginnersluck

As far as insulation goes...I wonder how a water heater jacket would do..m


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## midnitesmoker48

I see that many are doing the extended chimney/duct pipe mod, so what if you did that but instead of going done on the same side of the chimney, run the duct along the back and come down on the other side (firebox side) ?? If you have tuning plates w/firebox baffle wouldn't you have reverse flow without having to move the chimney itself to the firebox side ??


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## agginativetexan

Chargriller Pro.

I used the aluminum hose to drop the exhaust down to grill level on the same side. Put HF pnuematic tires in all 4 sides using PVC pipe as a spreader. Bought an adjustable porcelain coated grid for the firebox using the old screws foe support. Used an old stove broiler pan top for a smoke distributor plus some cheap perf pans in the bottom. Fire up with charcoal and use apple wood logs. Cook Pork butts at about 225F +/_ for 8+ hours using cheap loaf pans on exit side of fire box filled with water only. I put the butts in the remaining broiler pan top (lined with foil on all sides for ease of clean up) to catch and use drippings. My son says I need to start a food cart with the results, but retired is RETIRED!

I am a Texan, I grill steaks, smoke most everything else. GREAT GRILLING TO ALL!

I


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## pspaduzzi

I am having a problem finding the grate that you are using in your firebox. Any Ideas where I might find it? I have check Lowes and Home Depot...nothing....

Plus what is the diameter of the hose you are using for the smoker?

Thank you,

Paul


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## thebig1

I got my expanded metal grate at Lowe's.  Just be sure that you don't ask them, "Where is your expanded metal?"  Those idiots have no clue what it even is and will tell you that they don't have it.  It'll be in the hardware isle at the end, past all of the nuts and bolts.


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## agginativetexan

Got my porcelain grate at Home Depot Model # 550-0002 and cut a little off. Working well so far. I burn a mix of Charcoal and apple tree trimmings.


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## pspaduzzi

The Big 1,

  I was just at Lowes, and yes they had no idea what I was talking about and could not find it at all.  I did find some things, but not the expandable metal plate. 

Thanks for all your assistance for the grill, what an experience!!


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## thebig1

Sorry to hear that. You do know the area that I eats talking about right? It will be right with the steel plates.


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## midnitesmoker48

I found mine at Lowes in the area that was mentioned, it comes prepackaged in cardboard.

12 inches x 24 inches - 18 ga.  I got two so that way the bottom will be doubled when folded into 1/3's

and set one inside the other with the sides opposite to  give you all 4 sides that way.


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## midnitesmoker48

Update on the firebox - you don't fold it into 1/3's actually, but 6 inches in from the ends so you end up with a 12 x 12 x 6 high box.


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