# Pid and ssr help !!!



## rad-one (Jan 27, 2013)

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__ rad-one
__ Jan 27, 2013





Ok I'm no electrical expert but want to finish up my project have a 4' x21" wood smoker I started to build and want to order auber pid system that will work with my build and if I decide to add a bigger element to it but don't want to order until I get some advice I'm trying to run one hot plate 1100 watt and if I have to two 1100 watt plates here is some pics 













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__ rad-one
__ Jan 27, 2013


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## linguica (Jan 27, 2013)

At 2200 watts total draw at 120 volts, you are at safety levels or exceeding them depending on the AWG of your house wiring.

I wouldn't use this unit with out the approval of a licensed electrician.   Enclosed link will show how close to max limits you are.  
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






http://www.pinsandsockets.nl/awg info/awg info.html


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## rad-one (Jan 27, 2013)

I could not see anywhere about watts and don't understand


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## diggingdogfarm (Jan 27, 2013)

The wattage of the controllers is limited.
You're not going to be able to run 2200 watts worth of electric elements with a 120V controller.

Do you plan to buy one of their ready to go controllers or a PID and other parts and assemble your own?

~Martin


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## rad-one (Jan 27, 2013)

Was thinking about running one burner 1100watts if it would put out enough heat if not would look into another element. I like to build stuff so was going to build it with help from the forum


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## linguica (Jan 27, 2013)

rad-one said:


> I could not see anywhere about watts and don't understand


Ohm's law states Power = Voltage X Current.....( P=IE)  At 120 volts, 2200 Watts draws 18.3 Amperes. Most house wire in today's homes is

14/3 romex, a 14 GA conductor. Old homes may be wired with 12 GA wire which will handle more current but remember how old the inter-house connections must be. Add to that a supply cord and/or extension cord and you are looking for trouble.


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## diggingdogfarm (Jan 27, 2013)

If I were you, I'd think about buying a ready to use controller, it doesn't necessarily have to be a PID.
Forget about running two 1100 watt elements off one controller.


~Martin


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## rad-one (Jan 27, 2013)

That would be easy I like to do stuff for my self if I'm to do that I think I should just go and buy a digital smoker and I don't want to run two 1100 watt elements if I have to buy a replacement 1500 watt I will I want to just buy the right stuff to set myself up if I have to go that route 

thanks for the help


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## rad-one (Jan 27, 2013)

That explains more thanks so do you think for the size of my smoker would one 1100 watt work to heat it up to 230 240 degrees

linguica


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## linguica (Jan 27, 2013)

Rad-one, check out posts #62 and #65 of link below to see a top notch home MES clone.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/106393/thinking-about-a-plywood-mes40-clone/60#post_923656


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## dward51 (Jan 27, 2013)

From the photo you posted, it looks like those are off the shelf hot plates with no modifications.

Just be aware those things generally have a thermal limiter installed inside them.  This is to prevent the temp in the body of the unit exceeding a certain point.  Only problem is, in an enclosed space like a smoker you want it to exceed that point as it's usually around 180* and you are wanting 220* or more.  A thermal limiter is a type of switch that is normally closed to allow current to flow until a certain temp is reached and then the switch opens shutting off the power to the element.  It's a fire safety thing, but use of a hot plate in an enclosed space of a smoker is not how it was designed to be used and the thermal limit set point is usually too low for that purpose.

Two options....

Open the housing up and remove or bypass the thermal limit switch
Replace the thermal limit switch with one that has a higher trip point (well above your target smoking temps).
If you can't get one hot plate to go above about 180*, I would take that as a pretty certain sign you have a limiter in that hot plate.  1,100watts may be enough but if the thermal limiter keeps shutting you down you will never know.


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## rad-one (Jan 27, 2013)

Thanks I took the one apart and seen the switch and figured that would be y I would not be able to reach my temp but if I hooked it up to a pid and ssr that I would be able to bypass the switch and get the temps I'm looking for hard to decide what one I need to go with


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## linguica (Jan 28, 2013)

Almost all portable electrical appliances today also contain a tiny device called a thermal fuse to prevent overheating. It's a tiny metal tube with a wire coming out of each end. It will usually be covered by a piece of heat proof insulation. If it overheats it will open the circuit and must be replaced.  Your heater appears to take up most of the space on the bottom of your wooden smoker.

Keep in mind the possibility of the wood chips on the hot plate catching fire.


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## rad-one (Jan 28, 2013)

Yeah I'm using a castiron skillet to hold the wood chips


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## walleye1 (Feb 2, 2013)

The other members are right, you can really only run about 1500 watts on one circuit.

One option you could do is to tear down the hot plates and simply wire them direct. After all the PID will be controlling them.

A PID doesn't care how much power it switches. The PID is simply signaling the SSR to apply power or not. The SSR is what is switching the power. You can supply two separate circuits and have one hot plate on each one. The key point is you would have two power cords that would have to be plugged into separate circuits. This can be controlled with one PID. Here is a diagram of one I have previously built.













PIDWiring.jpg



__ walleye1
__ Feb 2, 2013






Mike


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## walleye1 (Feb 2, 2013)

I also meant to mention the PID used in this diagram was an Auber SYL=2352

Mike


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## rad-one (Feb 2, 2013)

This will help a lot my pid is being delivered today


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## handymanstan (Feb 2, 2013)

It seems to me you would only have to control one of the hot plates. Start out running the plate controlled by the pid and if it wont get to the temps you want then turn on the second plate and let the pid controlled plate make up the difference.  Either two 15 amp circuits or one 20 amp circuit should do it.

Stan


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## ponderingturtle (Feb 5, 2013)

It is certainly possible to put in say a 20-30 amp 110 line for the use of something like this, or use 220 and split the phases into two 110 for each heater.  But either would require a dedicated line be installed by an electrician.  You could run them from different outlets that you know are on different circuits with an extension cord as well.

Myself I intend to get a finned heater intended to run at about 1200 watts on 110v.  That way I should get plenty of heat provided the box is insulated,  I also plan on using a AMZ smoke generator.


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## rad-one (Feb 5, 2013)

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__ rad-one
__ Feb 5, 2013


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## rad-one (Feb 6, 2013)

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__ rad-one
__ Feb 6, 2013





Thanks for everybody's help smoking sausage now 













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__ rad-one
__ Feb 6, 2013


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