# Seasoning Oklahoma Joe's Highland Reverse Flow Smoker



## Wasi (May 30, 2018)

I just assembled my Oklahoma Joe's Highland Reverse Flow Smoker.  I replaced the stock thermometer with 2 LavaLock thermometers and added 2 more grate level thermometers as well.  I also added a WSM grommet on the side for adding probes.  The question I have is when I installed it I noticed there was a sticky residue that was on the inside of the smoker. I know you have to do a seasoning burn before you cook and the question is to I do the burn to cook off the residue before I add the oil to prevent rust?  Have already whipped it down with soap and water and then rinsed it.


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## xray (May 30, 2018)

Nice looking smoker.

You will be fine. Especially since you washed with soap and water. Go ahead and season it before you start your first fire.

When I seasoned mine, i just wiped away whatever oil I could and then seasoned.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 30, 2018)

I painted my OKJ with a brush and vegetable oil. I would recommend that just buy a couple of cheap cans of cooking spray to coat the inside and outside before you fire it up. That will make the job way easier. And don't forget to get under the firebox and the bottom of the cooking chamber. I will add that I've heard from others that they had great results using WD40 on the OUTSIDE only. I think that I am going to do some touch up paint on mine and then use the WD40 on the outside as well. Just my two cents. 

George


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## Wasi (May 30, 2018)

Thanks for the information.  I was going to get the cooking spray to cote it but was wondering if I should get regular PAM or PAM for grilling.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 30, 2018)

I doubt that the brand matters as long as the spray is some kind of vegetable oil. Really all you are doing is bonding that initial coat of oil to the inside surfaces. Over time you will get an awesome buildup inside from the smoke. One other suggestion that I have not followed myself but wish that I had from the get go is to line the bottom of your cooking chamber with aluminum foil. The cleanup will be so much easier when you do it. I am going to have to do a serious scrub of my own smoker then season it again. After that, I will start using foil on the bottom. That way you can just peel it out every few cooks and the inside stays relatively clean. 

George


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## xray (May 30, 2018)

Wasi said:


> Thanks for the information.  I was going to get the cooking spray to cote it but was wondering if I should get regular PAM or PAM for grilling.



I forgot to add that I used regular PAM. I just sprayed the inside of the CC and rubbed in with some paper towels.

Riverside makes an excellent point about aluminum foil. I line the bottom of my CC and discard when there is accumulated gunk. I also put those small plastic shims under my wheels. That way the smoker has a slight pitch towards the drain.

I clean my smoker after each use because I store it in my basement.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 30, 2018)

I need some of those shims. I have been trying to come up with something that was not wood. Steel would be fine too I suppose. Did you make them or did you purchase your shims Xray?

George


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## xray (May 30, 2018)

RiversideSm0ker said:


> I need some of those shims. I have been trying to come up with something that was not wood. Steel would be fine too I suppose. Did you make them or did you purchase your shims Xray?
> 
> George



Hi George. You could purchase them at any hardware store. I got mine at Lowe’s for 2$ a 12 pack. I like the composite ones because they’re longer and have a nice taper, that way you’re not trying to lift a heavy smoker onto an edge. You could even stack them if you need more height. I find that one shim underneath each wheel is enough to where the grease doesn’t pool at the bottom. Kinda like shimming a steam radiator to get rid of the water knock.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 30, 2018)

I'll take a look the next time I am at Home Depot. I have improvised something at the moment but I'd like a simple and semi permanent solution. Thanks for the heads up.

George


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## Wasi (May 30, 2018)

Never thought about shims.  What if I adjusted the legs length so that there is a slight pitch towards the grease drain?


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## SmokinAl (May 31, 2018)

I'm assuming that your grease drain is not on the firebox end.
If that is the case then raising the firebox end up will give you a hot spot at the fire box end of your cook chamber.
You can do a little to even the temp out by putting a water pan on the bottom grate, next to the fire box.
But under normal circumstances you would raise the nose of the smoker, not the fire box end to even out the temps across the grate in an RF smoker.
Al


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Nice rig.

Have you done other mods? Like sealing between firebox and cook chamber, cook chamber door, lowering the stack?

You mention a probe on the side? Where exactly?

How is the wire charcoal basket?


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

One more thing: what are the aprox dimensions (in the box)?


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Riverside
How do you deal with the peeling paint on the firebox?


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## Wasi (May 31, 2018)

atomicsmoke 

Yes I sealed the firebox to the chamber, vent stack.  I also put on a gasket seal on the chamber door.  I did not lower the stack.  I just picked a spot on the side opposite of the firebox to add the probe grommet.  The charcoal basket seems very nice and sturdy.  I have not fired it up yet so I am not sure about paint peeling.  Here is a link to specs of the unit.  https://www.oklahomajoes.com/smokers/highland-reverse-flow.html


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## xray (May 31, 2018)

Wasi said:


> Never thought about shims.  What if I adjusted the legs length so that there is a slight pitch towards the grease drain?



How would you do that? Seems like a lot of work. When i have my wheels on a shim, you wouldn’t even notice the smoker was pitched. It’s just an ever-so-slightly slope towards the drain just so the grease doesn’t pool at the bottom.


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

What mount did you use for the grate level therms.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 31, 2018)

Atomic, I have to say that for now I have just ignored the paint peeling issue. The only areas that peeled for me were the areas that I did not get oil on before I did my first seasoning burn. It was the bottom of the firebox and the lower side of the firebox under the cooking chamber. It was just me being a bit lazy when I first applied the oil to the outside. The inside is perfect. No problems at all for me on the internal part. I am going to do a full cleanup of my smoker soon and then reseason it. I will just get some of that high temp paint and touch those affected areas up before I fire it up again. Of course, I will let the paint set and then do an actual rub down with WD40 on the outside I believe. My friend from work with the same unit has had no trouble at all with the finish on his and he rubbed down the exterior with WD40 before his first seasoning. So I figure it's worth a try. Once that paint is really bonded to the metal through that seasoning process I hear it is pretty tough to get off. Hope that helps. 

George


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 31, 2018)

As far as the temp probe mounts on that grate are concerned. I bought a set of two from Amazon. I don't recall the brand but they were less that $10 and just clip on the grate with pressure. I'll try to find a link to something like the ones I purchased.


That's not the same brand but the design is almost identical. Anything like this will work. The ones I bought had three different sized holes to accommodate a variety of sizes. 

George


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> What mount did you use for the grate level therms.


I meant the lid thermometers.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 31, 2018)

For the lid there are two pre tapped mounting nipples. I tossed the gauge that came with mine because it clouded up with moisture after the first rain. I replaced that and installed a second one on the right that were matching. Again from Amazon. They have the color coding that makes it very easy to tell where you are at. From experience I know that the lid mounted temp gauges are about 25-30 degrees hotter than the grate. If I wanted to I could just use the lid mounts as a guide but subtracting the difference. They are very accurate. 


They look just like these. I don't recall if this was the brand I bought but if they aren't then they are near doppelgangers. 

George


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Wasi has another set of therms mounted on the lid at grate level. I was curious how those were installed as there are no factory mounts there.


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Xray,

How does the smoker work in winter time?


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

RiversideSm0ker said:


> Atomic, I have to say that for now I have just ignored the paint peeling issue. The only areas that peeled for me were the areas that I did not get oil on before I did my first seasoning burn. It was the bottom of the firebox and the lower side of the firebox under the cooking chamber. It was just me being a bit lazy when I first applied the oil to the outside. The inside is perfect. No problems at all for me on the internal part. I am going to do a full cleanup of my smoker soon and then reseason it. I will just get some of that high temp paint and touch those affected areas up before I fire it up again. Of course, I will let the paint set and then do an actual rub down with WD40 on the outside I believe. My friend from work with the same unit has had no trouble at all with the finish on his and he rubbed down the exterior with WD40 before his first seasoning. So I figure it's worth a try. Once that paint is really bonded to the metal through that seasoning process I hear it is pretty tough to get off. Hope that helps.
> 
> George


Wd40 won't give off some foul smell when "cooked"?


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 31, 2018)

You only apply it to the outside. Once it's cured I am told the smell is insignificant. Apparently, some of the big boy brands of smokers that go for $1K plus also recommend WD40 for the outside. I'm guessing it's OK. I just wont get any of it inside of the cooking chamber or firebox. 

George


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Thanks George. I better bookmark this thread. Lots of good info.

Do you smoke with wood or charcoal only? I am wondering how the firebox handles all wood fire.


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Charbroil took some aftermarkets mods (plates and basket) incorporated them into their process and launched a new product (charging more than the base model). Great business model - why spend on R&D when the users do it for you.

Others should take note.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 31, 2018)

If I had a good source of free wood I certainly would give it a try but I live in the concrete jungle of So Cal. I use Embers charcoal on the advice of Ray here at the forum and then I use wood chunks from the far away jungle of Walmart lol. I use pecan chunks mostly but I will mix in cherry or hickory and sometimes mesquite. I find that charcoal is very consistent. Especially this Embers stuff which is a Royal Oak rebrand for Home Depot. It's the same as the Royal Oak Ridge and is a few cents less that $5 a bag. I can do a six to seven hour cook on one bag of this charcoal when it's warm out. About another half bag when it is cold. We are talking So Cal cold not the frozen tundra of Minnesota. I can't speak for how it holds up in a very cold environment. Down to about 40 or so it does pretty well. By all accounts a pure wood fire is ideal and there are a ton of YouTube videos of guys cooking on an OKJ with all wood fires. You should do great if you have a good wood source. You just have to make sure that it's hardwood. No pine or soft wood that will be too acrid. 

George


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## Wasi (May 31, 2018)

I just a 7/8" drill bit and made the whole 7" from the end and 3" up from the bottom.


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## Wasi (May 31, 2018)

xray,

The legs get places in and tightened by a bolt but there is no hole so I can adjust it if I really wanted to.  Not sure that I will.


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## RiversideSm0ker (May 31, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> Charbroil took some aftermarkets mods (plates and basket) incorporated them into their process and launched a new product (charging more than the base model). Great business model - why spend on R&D when the users do it for you.
> 
> Others should take note.



Do you mean the reverse flow model? I know that it has the charcoal basket and all of the baffle plates to force the reverse flow. I looked into buying those plates for my OKJ before I actually had a chance to use it the first time. I guess that model does incorporate some unique lip for the plates to work with to keep them from working in a normal model OKJ without alteration. My thought at the time though was to just see what I had to work with before sinking a bunch of money into things that might not be needed. In my case, they have not been needed. 

George


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

RiversideSm0ker said:


> Do you mean the reverse flow model? I know that it has the charcoal basket and all of the baffle plates to force the reverse flow. I looked into buying those plates for my OKJ before I actually had a chance to use it the first time. I guess that model does incorporate some unique lip for the plates to work with to keep them from working in a normal model OKJ without alteration. My thought at the time though was to just see what I had to work with before sinking a bunch of money into things that might not be needed. In my case, they have not been needed.
> 
> George


Yes. 

Needed or not is interesting how these after market mods were picked up by the manufacturer.


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## Wasi (May 31, 2018)

That was the main reason I bought it.  Most of the extra mods to make the regular one work better were included.  Plus I caught it in sale at farm and fleet for $279.


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## atomicsmoke (May 31, 2018)

Good score Wasi.


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## Wasi (Jun 2, 2018)

Well I was finally able to season the smoker today and I had a few spots where smoked leaked that I am going to try and fix but like a lot of other users paint came off the bottom of the fire box so it looks like I need to get some automotive header paint and touch that up.  Still going to smoke some ribs tomorrow and will post pics of the finished product.


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## Jamie L (Jun 9, 2018)

xray said:


> Nice looking smoker.
> 
> You will be fine. Especially since you washed with soap and water. Go ahead and season it before you start your first fire.
> 
> When I seasoned mine, i just wiped away whatever oil I could and then seasoned.


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## Jamie L (Jun 9, 2018)

Im new at this and probably posting wrong, but I just bought a Oklahoma Joe’s Longhorn. My question is, when seasoning, do I wipe down and season the gas side , too or just the charcoal side?


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## phatbac (Jun 10, 2018)

Congrats on the new smoker! To protect the paint on the new smoker on the firebox may i suggest using some mineral oil or something that i have recently discovered works well for the inside of the CC for seasoning or general greasing before cooking and the outside of the FB... Crisco grilling spray.  Spray on the outside of the FB all around and when you fire it up it will bond to the paint and prevent the peeling.







Happy Smoking,
phatbac (Aaron)


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## Jamie L (Jun 10, 2018)

phatbac said:


> Congrats on the new smoker! To protect the paint on the new smoker on the firebox may i suggest using some mineral oil or something that i have recently discovered works well for the inside of the CC for seasoning or general greasing before cooking and the outside of the FB... Crisco grilling spray.  Spray on the outside of the FB all around and when you fire it up it will bond to the paint and prevent the peeling.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do I need to season the gas burner side the same way, inside and out?


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## atomicsmoke (Jun 13, 2018)

Wasi

How is the RF smoker performing? Temps even?  Do you like the RF plates? Aren't they mounted a little too high?


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## RiversideSm0ker (Jun 13, 2018)

phatbac said:


> Congrats on the new smoker! To protect the paint on the new smoker on the firebox may i suggest using some mineral oil or something that i have recently discovered works well for the inside of the CC for seasoning or general greasing before cooking and the outside of the FB... Crisco grilling spray.  Spray on the outside of the FB all around and when you fire it up it will bond to the paint and prevent the peeling.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Aaron great suggestion. I will have to keep a look out of this next time I'm out and about. This is something I need to start keeping around. I plan on doing that deep clean soon on my smoker and this would be excellent for the re-seasoning process. Hopefully, it will help with the new paint once I do some touch up as well. 

George


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## Xendau (Jul 31, 2018)

Greeting everyone... a little late to this thread. I too recently bought a factory OKJ RF Longhorn. I put it together on Friday, seasoned for 6 hours at 240 degrees on Saturday (see attachment 1). I used PAM grilling spray and Wesson veggie oil on the inside, and veggie oil on the outside. I didnt miss an inch.

After seasoning the smoker looked fine. No peeling or anything.

Then I fired it up on Sunday to do 2 butts and 2 chix.... It never exceeded 275 degrees. Ran for 5 hours at about 274 degrees front & 247 degrees at the back. (see attachment 2).

I replaced fuel, added the chickens, and got it back going, never exceeding 265 degrees. At the end, my FB was a mess (attachment 3).

I called Charbroil on that following Monday, reported what happened, and they are sending me a new firebox that should arrive today.

I expected this, but not so soon. I will season the new one with expectations of it repeating paint peel. But, this gives me the opportunity to pull the current FB clean it up, and repaint (multi-coating) with a better paint hoping to reduce this in the future.

Anyone have input on the best paint to use?


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## Xendau (Jul 31, 2018)

Wasi, how are your temps from front to back? I thought mine would be less than 10 degrees, but are more like 20 degrees.


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## Wasi (Jul 31, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Wasi, how are your temps from front to back? I thought mine would be less than 10 degrees, but are more like 20 degrees.


My temps are not that bad.  One thing I did which seemed to help with temp control was to add a 2 LB bread loaf pan and fill it with hot water and it seemed to help a lot.  Thinking about adding another pan on the other side as well.


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## atomicsmoke (Jul 31, 2018)

Xendau,
My FB peeled on the 2nd cook (first cook actually....the first run was the seasoning). So the manufacturer's solution is to send another box? What good would that make - the new box will peel too.


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## atomicsmoke (Jul 31, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Wasi, how are your temps from front to back? I thought mine would be less than 10 degrees, but are more like 20 degrees.


Front /back or left/right?


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## Wasi (Jul 31, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> Front /back or ledt/right?


Mine peeled on second smoke and only got worse.  I have a can of rustolum ready to repaint soon when I get a chance.  The first one is right next to the heat source by the exhaust port.  If I do another one it will be near the other end.


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## Xendau (Jul 31, 2018)

I guess I meant left to right... I consider the front of my smoker nearest to the FB and the back furthest from FB. I could have been more articulate.

Atomic - The new FB will peel I am sure, but it allows me the chance to take apart the first one and refinish it better than from the factory. Then I can remove the newest and install the refinished one. Ill always have one to replace the other when it comes time to repaint. :)


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## RiversideSm0ker (Jul 31, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Greeting everyone... a little late to this thread. I too recently bought a factory OKJ RF Longhorn. I put it together on Friday, seasoned for 6 hours at 240 degrees on Saturday (see attachment 1). I used PAM grilling spray and Wesson veggie oil on the inside, and veggie oil on the outside. I didnt miss an inch.
> 
> After seasoning the smoker looked fine. No peeling or anything.
> 
> ...


That is some serious bubbling on the paint. I've not had any problems with the paint on the top of my firebox. The issues I had were on the bottom where I never got any oil and the side of the firebox where it meets the cooking chamber. The lower part where the coals tend to lay against the side of the firebox that mounts to the cooking chamber. I've had absolutely no new issues with the finish since that initial peeling on my first cook. It's kind of odd that it never progressed after the first time that the paint flaked off. I've yet to do my deep clean and reseason. I will see about picking up some paint to try again. Could be interesting to see if it turns out better with an aftermarket high temp paint. Ideally, these things should have had a powder coat that would not have been vulnerable to this same effect but then the price would have to rise sharply I imagine. The food is still top notch coming off of my OKJ. To me, that's the part that matters most. 

George


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## Xendau (Jul 31, 2018)

River - I concur, it is about the food coming off. But having owned any number of COS over the past decade and a half, I am trying to be more mindful and take better care of this one. All my past ones have been under the $200 range, this one set me back $500 without the mods or the ATC. I dont plan on buying another for a few years. When I do I am looking at making a significant price jump (to about $3000). At this price point I feel this wont be as large as an issue.


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## Xendau (Aug 1, 2018)

Wasi said:


> My temps are not that bad.  One thing I did which seemed to help with temp control was to add a 2 LB bread loaf pan and fill it with hot water and it seemed to help a lot.  Thinking about adding another pan on the other side as well.





 Wasi
 - How far was it off before the water pans?


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## Wasi (Aug 1, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Wasi
> - How far was it off before the water pans?


I am sorry I do not remember but if I had to guess around 10 degrees or so.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

Wasi said:


> I am sorry I do not remember but if I had to guess around 10 degrees or so.


Hey all


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

Hello everyone,

I’m new here. I bought my Highland reverse flow a couple weeks ago. 

Found at BJs for $279.

I did not use any mods. 

Here’s what I’m doing to keep the temps relatively even through out. This keeps temps withen 10-15 degrees. 

1. Keep the Door closed! This thing loses heat fast and temp differentials quickly get to 30-40 degrees from hottest spot to coldest. It takes 20 minutes or so to get it back in check. Don’t open it and the top right thermometer will be 15 degrees hotter than bottom left. (I’m using analog oven thermometers from Lowe’s placed set on the cooking grates that are meant for the purpose) 

2. Use less fuel and keep the dampeners as open as possible. This lets the air circulate and allows the reverser to do its job. 

Comments
This thing leaks smoke like something I’ve never seen before around the cook chamber door. It’s BAD. That being said, it doesn’t seem to affect its functionality.

Question
I’m thinking of putting 2 cast iron Lodge griddles in the bottom of the cook chamber to help it maintain temps when the door opens. Any opinions? Will sealing the door help this issue? 

Thanks for reading. I hope I’m not jacking the thread I wanted to post a review but couldn’t figure out how! This is my first smoker and I love it. Any comments or replies are welcomed.


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## RiversideSm0ker (Aug 1, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I’m new here. I bought my Highland reverse flow a couple weeks ago.
> 
> ...


Hey there Griz, I have the standard OKJ Highland. No reverse flow but the ides is very similar along with the fit and finish. The single mod that I did on my OKJ was to put the lavalock gasket around the cooking chamber door. I highly recommend this one mod. I don't believe that the others that most people try are truly vital to the function of this smoker. Based on my own cooking results of course. YMMV but this is a very inexpensive and easy mod to setup. My guess is that you will have much better recovery time with this mod. I know that on my OKJ the recovery time is more like 10 minutes unless I have opened the door for an extended time to foil some ribs or a shoulder or brisket. Just spritzing should not have that much of an effect on the temp. I can see ten or fifteen degrees but that's about it. I can't say enough positive things about my OKJ. Of course, I was very fortunate to find a one in a blue moon deal for only $75 new. Gotta love holiday clearance time. 

George


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## atomicsmoke (Aug 1, 2018)

I dont think cast iron will help much with temp drops when opening the door. This is not a defect is physics: opening the door allows hot air/smoke to escape and cold air to get in. Don't open too often and keep it short when opening. Like River my temps recover in less than 10min. But 6 unnecessary openings mean an extra cook hour.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

RiversideSm0ker said:


> Hey there Griz, I have the standard OKJ Highland. No reverse flow but the ides is very similar along with the fit and finish. The single mod that I did on my OKJ was to put the lavalock gasket around the cooking chamber door. I highly recommend this one mod. I don't believe that the others that most people try are truly vital to the function of this smoker. Based on my own cooking results of course. YMMV but this is a very inexpensive and easy mod to setup. My guess is that you will have much better recovery time with this mod. I know that on my OKJ the recovery time is more like 10 minutes unless I have opened the door for an extended time to foil some ribs or a shoulder or brisket. Just spritzing should not have that much of an effect on the temp. I can see ten or fifteen degrees but that's about it. I can't say enough positive things about my OKJ. Of course, I was very fortunate to find a one in a blue moon deal for only $75 new. Gotta love holiday clearance time.
> 
> George


 Awesome Find!

Thanks for the advice. I was hopeing  after a couple smokes the door would magically seal itself. It did not happened lol. Sounds like I might have to seal it after all


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> I dont think cast iron will help much with temp drops when opening the door. This is not a defect is physics: opening the door allows hot air/smoke to escape and cold air to get in. Don't open too often and keep it short when opening. Like River my temps recover in less than 10min. But 6 unnecessary openings mean an extra cook hour.



That’s a good recovery time. I guess it doesn’t help that I have to open the door to check the temp with the thermometers I’m using lol.


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## Wasi (Aug 1, 2018)

You need to follow the old saying "if your looking you ain't cooking"  I agree that sealing the firebox door with a gasket makes a big difference. Did you seal it with high temp sealant before you assembled it?  This is another cheap mod that really helps keep the smoke inside the chamber.  Those two mods are approx. $25 for both at Amazon and worth the money for sure.  If you need to check temps all the time I recommend ThermoPro TP20 it is $60 at amazon and works great for getting meet temps without opening the lid.


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## atomicsmoke (Aug 1, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> That’s a good recovery time. I guess it doesn’t help that I have to open the door to check the temp with the thermometers I’m using lol.


Get a therm with probes. They are inexpensive . Got one from amazon for around 60cdn$. Six probes, bluetooth. Drill a hole in the smoker, plug it with a grommet - no more worries about temp drops.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

Wasi said:


> You need to follow the old saying "if your looking you ain't cooking"  I agree that sealing the firebox door with a gasket makes a big difference. Did you seal it with high temp sealant before you assembled it?  This is another cheap mod that really helps keep the smoke inside the chamber.  Those two mods are approx. $25 for both at Amazon and worth the money for sure.  If you need to check temps all the time I recommend ThermoPro TP20 it is $60 at amazon and works great for getting meet temps without opening the lid.



No seals were use. I emailed char-briol to get their opinion on the seals before I purchased it. They called me the next day and said the seals would negatively affect its design and decrease the airflow it was meant to have. BUT it seems like literally everyone uses them so it must be for a reason


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> Get a therm with probes. They are inexpensive . Got one from amazon for around 60cdn$. Six probes, bluetooth. Drill a hole in the smoker, plug it with a grommet - no more worries about temp drops.


I spent all my money on the smoker! Haha but I will def consider this


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## RiversideSm0ker (Aug 1, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> I spent all my money on the smoker! Haha but I will def consider this


There is an active discount code in the thermometer section from ThermoPro. I think it was a 10 or 20 percent discount. I have the TP-08 which is very good and is about $35 or so with that discount code. The gasket around the cook chamber should suffice for leakage. What little leakage I had from the firebox stopped after just a few cooks. Carbon buildup did the trick there. Don't fret, you will be making some awesome BBQ in no time. 

George


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## Xendau (Aug 1, 2018)

Ill be running my 6 probe wires (Fireboard) through this probe port. When you tighten the end cap a plastic unit inside tightens making it more smoke tight. Ive heard the plastic insert deforms after a number of cooks at higher temps, but is easily replaced with high temp tape.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 1, 2018)

All problems aside I think the ribs came out good


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## atomicsmoke (Aug 1, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> No seals were use. I emailed char-briol to get their opinion on the seals before I purchased it. They called me the next day and said the seals would negatively affect its design and decrease the airflow it was meant to have. BUT it seems like literally everyone uses them so it must be for a reason


It will decrease the airflow alright. From the firebox and cooking chamber to the outside. That's the idea.

Char broil should figure out how to paint the FB before telling their customers how (not)  to make OK Joe a better smoker.


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## atomicsmoke (Aug 1, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Ill be running my 6 probe wires (Fireboard) through this probe port. When you tighten the end cap a plastic unit inside tightens making it more smoke tight. Ive heard the plastic insert deforms after a number of cooks at higher temps, but is easily replaced with high temp tape.


Can you share the model of this port and the vendor?


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## Berettaclayshooter (Aug 1, 2018)

The problem is that fire box isn't painted with high temp paint, it's just set up for failure.  The best thing to do is buy some 1,500F high temp paint and a wire brush.  Once the factory junk peels off, brush off the loose stuff and shoot the good stuff on there.


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## Wasi (Aug 2, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> No seals were use. I emailed char-briol to get their opinion on the seals before I purchased it. They called me the next day and said the seals would negatively affect its design and decrease the airflow it was meant to have. BUT it seems like literally everyone uses them so it must be for a reason


Now that is funny.  How does sealing up the unit decrease air flow?  If they took the time to build it right and used better material and paint we would not have to make the changes we did.   As far as the grommet hole I used this from Weber and it works great.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 2, 2018)

Wasi said:


> Now that is funny.  How does sealing up the unit decrease air flow?  If they took the time to build it right and used better material and paint we would not have to make the changes we did.   As far as the grommet hole I used this from Weber and it works great.


Just a theory here. And please step in with your thoughts.
My firebox has big gaps where the top and bottom are bolted together. You can easily slip a quarter through it.
If I close the fire box damper air will still enter these gaps as long as the chimney is open. The majority of the air goes directly in to the cook chamber since the gap is above the charcoal/fuel. The gap airflow can be controlled by the chimney. The temperature can be controlled by the fire box damper. 

The point I’m trying to make is this airflow increases circulation. More circulation equals more even temps throughout. 

Of course all this could done differently by sealing the thing properly and keep the circulation up by having all the dampers open as much as possible and controlling temps with amount of fuel. 

Yeah, I’m over thinking this. But it’s how I’m making it work with no mods


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> Can you share the model of this port and the vendor?



Probe Port Barbecue Smoker Thermometer Stainless Steel @ Amazon: http://a.co/hZ5fA9c

I did buy others that looked just like it for half the price (and you get 3) but they werent made as well and I never found the exact match (size needed for 6 probes wires) to this one. So I took the $18 hit and kept it over the others and sent those back.


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> All problems aside I think the ribs came out good



They look great, props to ya!


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

Berettaclayshooter said:


> The problem is that fire box isn't painted with high temp paint, it's just set up for failure.  The best thing to do is buy some 1,500F high temp paint and a wire brush.  Once the factory junk peels off, brush off the loose stuff and shoot the good stuff on there.



I totally agree. After all the COS smokers I have owned over the years, it is inevitable. Get out the wire drill attachment and go to town. I am trying to get the same brand of paint used by Lone Star Grillz and a few other OS makers. (See attached Spec Sheet) and fix my current run in with paint bubbling (second fire) on my OKJ RF.


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> Just a theory here. And please step in with your thoughts.
> My firebox has big gaps where the top and bottom are bolted together. You can easily slip a quarter through it.
> If I close the fire box damper air will still enter these gaps as long as the chimney is open. The majority of the air goes directly in to the cook chamber since the gap is above the charcoal/fuel. The gap airflow can be controlled by the chimney. The temperature can be controlled by the fire box damper.
> 
> ...



Gaps in firebox = heat escaping (an already thin smoker)
Gaps in FB & CC = difficult to maintain constant temp

But ultimately Ive cooked on COS for years never modded, without good thermos for years and produced good results.

This is my first time using a high end COS with mods and an amazing thermo w/ ATC. My first cook required far less monitoring, my fuel consumption was reduced and I cooked at far more consistent and accurate temps than ever before. I enjoyed it thoroughly and my end results while not my best, were great for a first cook on a set up I had never used before.

Ultimately, you have to do what you feel is best for you my friend. :thumbs up:


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## atomicsmoke (Aug 2, 2018)

Xendau said:


> I totally agree. After all the COS smokers I have owned over the years, it is inevitable. Get out the wire drill attachment and go to town. I am trying to get the same brand of paint used by Lone Star Grillz and a few other OS makers. (See attached Spec Sheet) and fix my current run in with paint bubbling (second fire) on my OKJ RF.


Are you gonna repaint the whole FB or just the area where the paint is peeling?


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

Griz0146
 - Just a list of mods I did:

- Oklahoma Joe LONGHORN all BLACK w/ RTV Gasket & Latch Mod Kit by FireBlack
- Cook Chamber Gasket self adhering (I used)
     - RTV High Temp Silicone (I used - bought one extra too)
     - Firebox Gasket (Requires HT RTV) (I used)
     - CC Lid Latches (not used yet)​
- Stainless Steel Probe Port (not used yet)

- Fan opening in my intake dampener for my ATC (see attched)

- Minion Bars (custom made by co-workers in shop)

Some buy the black RTV Silicone (non high temp) for the cook chamber to use at the smoke stack, and in the case of the factory RF at the optional outlet. I used the left over cook chamber gasket, ran on the inside diameter of both smoke stack outlets and inserted the smoke stack and end cap respectively.

I am buying extra FB gasket to attach to my FB ashdoor and using the HT RTV to seal the dampener to the door as I have started using my ATC for air into the FB.


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

atomicsmoke said:


> Are you gonna repaint the whole FB or just the area where the paint is peeling?



I am going to cook with it this weekend before removing it and replacing it. Hopefully more paint comes off. (Feels weird saying that - lol)

Then I am going to see how much of the paint I can get off the FB with a wire brush attachment for my drill. I might take a light grinding wheel to it. Id rather it be free of paint before applying a new paint.


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## RiversideSm0ker (Aug 2, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Griz0146
> - Just a list of mods I did:
> 
> - Oklahoma Joe LONGHORN all BLACK w/ RTV Gasket & Latch Mod Kit by FireBlack
> ...


Griz, one thing that I have heard from a few folks who got really thorough about sealing every single gap was that they could find on the firebox end and then they had problems keeping temps due to lack of airflow. I've stated this many times on the forum before. I have no mods at all of the firebox and have never had any trouble getting my pit up to temp unless it was frigid outside. That's only two or three times a year here in So Cal. Have fun and enjoy those cooks.

George


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## Griz0146 (Aug 2, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Griz0146
> - Just a list of mods I did:
> 
> - Oklahoma Joe LONGHORN all BLACK w/ RTV Gasket & Latch Mod Kit by FireBlack
> ...


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

RiversideSm0ker said:


> Griz, one thing that I have heard from a few folks who got really thorough about sealing every single gap was that they could find on the firebox end and then they had problems keeping temps due to lack of airflow. I've stated this many times on the forum before. I have no mods at all of the firebox and have never had any trouble getting my pit up to temp unless it was frigid outside. That's only two or three times a year here in So Cal. Have fun and enjoy those cooks.
> 
> George





 RiversideSm0ker
 - So youve read its bad to seal all the gaps? Hmmmm... I might have to do some digging to find out more info. From a lot of reading I have done, seems the biggest issues with the COS is the fact it does leak so much.

But with the ATC, Im hoping this is not the case. The fan is supposed to only blow (stoke the fire) just enough to keep the temperature at the point I set it at. Good thing I have that second FB Charlbroil sent. LOL



 Griz0146
 - Thank you! Ill get some better pics this weekend.


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## RiversideSm0ker (Aug 2, 2018)

Xendau said:


> RiversideSm0ker
> - So youve read its bad to seal all the gaps? Hmmmm... I might have to do some digging to find out more info. From a lot of reading I have done, seems the biggest issues with the COS is the fact it does leak so much.
> 
> But with the ATC, Im hoping this is not the case. The fan is supposed to only blow (stoke the fire) just enough to keep the temperature at the point I set it at. Good thing I have that second FB Charlbroil sent. LOL
> ...


I believe the logic was that the air vent for the current OKJ Highland firebox is relatively small. So if you completely cut off all of the gaps that exist the intake is too small to get proper airflow in some cases. One suggestion ended up being to add another vent to the end of the top piece of the firebox. This would give you the chance to add more air if need be. I'm not sure that's really necessary but I guess it would be there if you really needed it. Apparently the original firebox for the OKJ even from Char Broil was in a single piece and the vent on the side of the firebox was much larger like you would see on the current Horizon design. To make everything fit in a smaller single box the firebox was split into two halves that were are now forced to assemble together. It's been a while since I saw that info but that's pretty much how I remember it being explained. I guess it makes sense. 

George


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## Xendau (Aug 2, 2018)

RiversideSm0ker said:


> I believe the logic was that the air vent for the current OKJ Highland firebox is relatively small. So if you completely cut off all of the gaps that exist the intake is too small to get proper airflow in some cases. One suggestion ended up being to add another vent to the end of the top piece of the firebox. This would give you the chance to add more air if need be. I'm not sure that's really necessary but I guess it would be there if you really needed it. Apparently the original firebox for the OKJ even from Char Broil was in a single piece and the vent on the side of the firebox was much larger like you would see on the current Horizon design. To make everything fit in a smaller single box the firebox was split into two halves that were are now forced to assemble together. It's been a while since I saw that info but that's pretty much how I remember it being explained. I guess it makes sense.
> 
> George



Okay, thanks for the info! My girl is all sealed up; between CC and FB, the gasket around CC lid and FB lid, HT RTV between the two part firebox, etc... I will have to see how it works with the additional mods Ive done this weekend. I really only want the ATC fan to be my air regulator. So it may work to my advantage, but I still have the back up FB if it doesnt.


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## Wasi (Aug 7, 2018)

Wasi said:


> My temps are not that bad.  One thing I did which seemed to help with temp control was to add a 2 LB bread loaf pan and fill it with hot water and it seemed to help a lot.  Thinking about adding another pan on the other side as well.


Here is a photo of the setup with the water pan and 5 slabs of ribs I cooked Sunday morning.  There was not much room for anything else because of the size of the water pan but they turned out pretty good. Was my first attempt at doing more then 2 slabs at once.


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## Xendau (Aug 7, 2018)

Wasi said:


> Here is a photo of the setup with the water pan and 5 slabs of ribs I cooked Sunday morning.  There was not much room for anything else because of the size of the water pan but they turned out pretty good. Was my first attempt at doing more then 2 slabs at once.





 Wasi
 - Nice! The first image is my run on Sunday, the second image is from my run last night... I placed my water pan under the baffles, on the right by the FB.


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## Wasi (Aug 7, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Wasi
> - Nice! The first image is my run on Sunday, the second image is from my run last night... I placed my water pan under the baffles, on the right by the FB.


Never thought of putting it down there.  Did you notice a difference?  Might have to try that for my next smoke.


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## Xendau (Aug 7, 2018)

It definitely evened my temps out more. Where I had a 20 degree swing I am now within 10 from left to right. I would like to place 2 pans down there to see if it helps. I only did one pan this last cook.


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## Wasi (Aug 7, 2018)

Xendau said:


> It definitely evened my temps out more. Where I had a 20 degree swing I am now within 10 from left to right. I would like to place 2 pans down there to see if it helps. I only did one pan this last cook.


Ok that is good to know.  I will try and see what happens.  When I checked the temps I near spot on at the grate level and just a little warmer near the firebox on top temp.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 7, 2018)

For what it’s worth I saw BJs has the highland reverse flow on sale for $200


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## Xendau (Aug 8, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> For what it’s worth I saw BJs has the highland reverse flow on sale for $200



WHAT!?!? Well, we dont have BJs out here, so it is of no consequence for me. Just have to live with the $500 I kicked out for the RF. Im happy with my purchase overall.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 8, 2018)

Ok so I got the Temps fairly steady 10 degrees throughout the chamber.

I saw someone do this on YouTube on their regular highland (not reverse flow) 

I added two stainless clips in the cook chamber just above the opening by the fire box. (Youtube guy didn’t do this, didn’t need to on the regular highland) 

Then I dusted off the cooking grate for the fire box that has never been used. Wrapped it in aluminum foil and leaned it on the clips. See the photos. 

Best part is this mod was practically free.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 8, 2018)

Trying to upload the photos I’ll get back to you


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## Xendau (Aug 8, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> Ok so I got the Temps fairly steady 10 degrees throughout the chamber.
> 
> I saw someone do this on YouTube on their regular highland (not reverse flow)
> 
> ...





 Griz0146
 - Ya... I had seen that too. But me being all pretentious and whatnot thought about just buying the baffles from BBQmods.com for the Longhorn. lol

I want to try and buy two nice sized pro kitchen half pans (stainless 4" walls) from amazon, place them on the main chamber charcoal grates that came with the RF and take a cookie sheet and tilt in as you mention. Hopefully this will help push most of the heat down and under (or around) the water pans hopefully making the temps more even from left to right.


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## Griz0146 (Aug 8, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> Trying to upload the photos I’ll get back to you


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## Xendau (Aug 8, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> View attachment 373260



Nice quick fix! Ill try this or something similar this weekend!


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## Griz0146 (Aug 8, 2018)

Griz0146 said:


> Trying to upload the photos I’ll get back to you


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## Xendau (Aug 8, 2018)

Griz0146
 - what kind of clips did you use?


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## Griz0146 (Aug 8, 2018)

Xendau said:


> Griz0146
> - what kind of clips did you use?


They were the hooks on my thermometers meant to hang it on an oven rack. Since I always stand them on top the rack I don’t think I’ll miss them


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