# Masterbuilt heating element replacement????



## kudu2222

I have been trying since April 4th to get a heating element for my 40 inch smoker (pt # 9907120027). I have been put off time and again with excuses and delays. Once again this afternoon I was told that their expected delivery is October 7th. I no longer believe anything I am being told. WHERE can I get a heating element, even a universal element that is approx 7" X 8", I am not sure what wattage I need.

Frustrated, I should have bought a Treager


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## daveomak

Is it the element for sure or did the wires just burn off, like happens in so many MB smokers.....


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## daveomak

https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/part/1057565/146218/

https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/part/1368620/139749/


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## kudu2222

DaveOmak, WELL CRAP!!!! I just checked and the wire is burnt off the one terminal!!!! What is a simple fix and how did you prevent it from happening again?  There is only about 1 1/4" of wire left to work with. I can't believe I have wasted a whole summer of smoking. Thank you for your help!!!!


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## dr k

kudu2222 said:


> DaveOmak, WELL CRAP!!!! I just checked and the wire is burnt off the one terminal!!!! What is a simple fix and how did you prevent it from happening again?  There is only about 1 1/4" of wire left to work with. I can't believe I have wasted a whole summer of smoking. Thank you for your help!!!!


I can send you a couple pigtail high temp connectors.  I also had no lead to work with.  I have over a dozen I got for $8.00, brass plated in nickel 900*F.  I'll just mail to you for free.  It's better than having them sit around here.  I double shrink tube them for heat resistance.  Here's a couple pics.  If you want two, just PM me and I'll drop them in the mail.













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__ dr k
__ Jul 26, 2016


















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__ dr k
__ Jul 26, 2016






I soldered all my joints but you can wire nut it like MB sends there's, if necessary.  I used 14 gauge instead of Masterbuilt's 16.  I've got plenty for now and no problem to make in five minutes.  Many have said to look at the element quick disconnect first so I'm passing the buck!   

-Kurt


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## daveomak

Clean BOTH terminals on the element with some fine sand paper....  Strip both wires back to good wire....  tin the wires....  tin the new female spade lugs and solder them...    slide the spades on the element spades...  then I would solder them in place...  

High amperage is what causes the spades to burn off...  poor connections....  any spades will work as long as they are soldered...   If you can get some fiberglass electrical tape, wrap all the new work with it...  

That fix should last forever...  mine has been operating for 5+ years with the fix.....  there's no way it will burn off with good solder joints...  

If they are plastic insulated spades, cut off the plastic...


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## kudu2222

Kurt, THANK YOU! I see in the pictures you provided how you repaired it. I'll run up to my local hardware store tomorrow and get my needed repairs. Thank you for the offer of the wire etc... I truly appreciate your advice!!!! Bob Phillips


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## kudu2222

Dave, Thank you again for your advice on the burned wires on my Masterbuilt smoker. I have it repaired and smoked some ribs today. Sure is good to have it up and working!  Thank you again for your help, I really appreciate it.

Bob Phillips


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## kudu2222

Kurt, Thank you again for your advice on the burned wires on my Masterbuilt smoker. I have it repaired and smoked some ribs today. Sure is good to have it up and working!  Thank you again for your help, I really appreciate it.

Bob Phillips


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## daveomak

Bob, morning and thanks....   We have tons of knowledge to pass on....   we're not always right but pass it on anyways...  
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






  ...

Dave


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## graco

Question; I just changed the element, wires and connectors. When I turn it on it heats up to 120 degrees or so and then it stops heating. What could be wrong?


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## daveomak

Does the power go out ??   Will the smoker cool then start heating again ??  Open the door and let it cool...    If it starts up again, it's the over temp snap switch...


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## graco

Power stays on. It cools but does not go back up in temp. Where is that switch?


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## daveomak

So it won't turn back on after it cools to say, 70 degrees or so ???   if it's the over temp snap switch it should....   ONLY because your smoker warms up when turned on....    

The snap switch is the round button thing on the left side, back wall of the smoker body.....

Try this...  put an ice cube on it to cool it off fast and cold...  The smoker should turn on when that is done.....  unless something is haywire with the "re-wire" project you did...

What all did you re-wire ??  Can you check the continuity of the wires to heating element connections ??   Are the connections solid and tight. ??


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## graco

It did the same thing before I changed the wires.


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## graco

This is how I hooked it up.













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__ graco
__ Feb 11, 2017


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## daveomak

Do the ice thing on the snap switch.....   That will tell us "something".....   Like I noted....   If it starts cold, it should restart when it cools off....


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## graco

I changed the connectors to the other side., It went up to 115 then I opened it until the temp dropped to 80, closed it and it would not come back up. I disconnected it, disassembled the install, reassembled it again and now it wont even heat past ambient temp.


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## daveomak

Did you try the ice on the snap switch ???


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## graco

No. There's a flat bolt to the left, is that it? What good would it do if now it doesn't even go past 80?


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## daveomak

You may find out if it is faulty is it comes on at 32 ish. with ice on it...


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## graco

It dropped. I may have pulled a cable too much the first time I opened it. Thanks for the help.


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## daveomak

??  What dropped Graco ??   Help us out here....  Others may have a similar problem...  This is a great learning experience for all of us....


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## graco

The temperature dropped, with the ice.


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## daveomak

Did you put the ice on the round button on the left side back panel...    The probe that sticks out about 3/4" on the back panel right side, should be the thermocouple that measures the temp..  that's not the snap switch...


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## graco

I did on the flat one to the left.


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## daveomak

I think a part under the floor on the left side, facing the smoker, may have failed..  there's a bunch of electrical under there...   One of our members, some time back, dug in there and replaced a part...  Can't remember who...


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## daveomak

If push comes to shove, get a controller and hook it up directly to the heating element...  disconnect the rest of the stuff and just use the controller....  Lots are available from $30 on up...    Auber has some nice plug and play stuff....

Maybe someone will give you some help and suggestions on what will work well for you......


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## dogwalker

Dr K said:


> I can send you a couple pigtail high temp connectors.  I also had no lead to work with.  I have over a dozen I got for $8.00, brass plated in nickel 900*F.  I'll just mail to you for free.  It's better than having them sit around here.  I double shrink tube them for heat resistance.  Here's a couple pics.  If you want two, just PM me and I'll drop them in the mail.
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> __ dr k
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> I soldered all my joints but you can wire nut it like MB sends there's, if necessary.  I used 14 gauge instead of Masterbuilt's 16.  I've got plenty for now and no problem to make in five minutes.  Many have said to look at the element quick disconnect first so I'm passing the buck!
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> -Kurt





Graco said:


> This is how I hooked it up.
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> __ graco
> __ Feb 11, 2017


Sure am glad I'm on this board!  This was a big weekend, and I smoked pork shoulder Friday night, and then started brisket last night (for Mother's Day).  Then my MES 40 stopped heating, so I had to finish the brisket in our oven (forgot to put foil under it, so I'm in trouble for the mess, but that's another story).

Thankfully, I vaguely remembered reading something about this on the forums, so I did a search and found this.  Sure enough, one of my wires has completely come off!  To test, I temporarily connected it to the post, and the smoker heats again.  So now I need to look for something like you guys are describing.

So, it sounds like I should look for:

1) some extra wire to give me some safety margin (what grade?)

2) little slide-on clips (pardon my ignorance, what are those called?)

3) twist connectors

and then solder the wires to the female clips, which I'll then slide on to the male clips.

I should go ahead and do both wires, right?  Just the one eroded, but I haven't removed the plastic wrap to check the other.

Thanks again!


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## dr k

@Dogwalker I got the Supco T1113 1/4" HIGH HEAT QUICK DISCONNECTS  on Amazon. These are for 14-16 guage wire. I used std 14 guage wire in the pic you posted above because I had  no extra lead to work with. I double shrink tubed it as well but that may not be necessary since it's been over a year and it looks like the day I installed it. The Amazon pic showed crimpable fold over tabs on the lugs but they came as a non crimpable barrel that you slide the wire through after you tin it and solder it on. The pic below shows the black Mes and the high heat replacement and yes I did both because the shrink tubing on the good original lug in this pic was hard and bubbled. If you have enough lead strip it till you get to good wire, twist the wire, tin it and slide it through the barrel till it sticks out the other end 1/4". Hang the end of the wire on a 100 watt solder gun till the tinned end melts and add more solder to fill the joint/barrel. Use wire cutters to clip the excess off and cover with shrink tubing and slide it on the element after you shine up the male spade on the element.












CAM00889.jpg



__ dr k
__ Dec 25, 2016





 -Kurt


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## dogwalker

Dr K said:


> @Dogwalker I got the Supco T1113 1/4" HIGH HEAT QUICK DISCONNECTS on Amazon. These are for 14-16 guage wire. I used std 14 guage wire in the pic you posted above because I had no extra lead to work with. I double shrink tubed it as well but that may not be necessary since it's been over a year and it looks like the day I installed it. The Amazon pic showed crimpable fold over tabs on the lugs but they came as a non crimpable barrel that you slide the wire through after you tin it and solder it on. The pic below shows the black Mes and the high heat replacement and yes I did both because the shrink tubing on the good original lug in this pic was hard and bubbled. If you have enough lead strip it till you get to good wire, twist the wire, tin it and slide it through the barrel till it sticks out the other end 1/4". Hang the end of the wire on a 100 watt solder gun till the tinned end melts and add more solder to fill the joint/barrel. Use wire cutters to clip the excess off and cover with shrink tubing and slide it on the element after you shine up the male spade on the element.
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> __ Dec 25, 2016
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Kurt, thanks for such great details!  My original wire looks long enough that I don't need to add any more wire, but I'll buy two of these high heat connects, since I looked, and you're right - the remaining one is hard and bubbled.  I hate to admit this, but I don't really know about soldering or what "tinning" means, but my son does.  I'm a software nerd, LOL!

I *really* appreciate this!  I'll buy the connects for 14 guage.

Thanks!


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## dogwalker

Dr K, I went to Lowe's to pick up disconnects, but I don't really know electronics and how they work.  I do know that heat is related to current and resistance, but that's about it.

The disconnects they have are wrapped in some kind of plastic, and they have these ratings:

voltage rating: 300 volt max

temperature rating: 221 degrees F

Now, I wouldn't think that the wires or disconnects get as hot as the heating element, but I really don't know.  If I use this, am I running a risk of a fire?  I saw the the Supcos you recommended have a much higher max temperature rating.

Thanks again!


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## dr k

Dogwalker said:


> Dr K, I went to Lowe's to pick up disconnects, but I don't really know electronics and how they work.  I do know that heat is related to current and resistance, but that's about it.
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> The disconnects they have are wrapped in some kind of plastic, and they have these ratings:
> voltage rating: 300 volt max
> temperature rating: 221 degrees F
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> Now, I wouldn't think that the wires or disconnects get as hot as the heating element, but I really don't know.  If I use this, am I running a risk of a fire?  I saw the the Supcos you recommended have a much higher max temperature rating.
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> Thanks again!


They should be fine with the voltage rating and the connection isn't hot like the element. The high temp connectors I believe are nickle plated steel vs. softer aluminum etc. So they take more strength to connect meaning a tighter connection. Heating and cooling cycles on the Mes connectors that came with the smoker expand and contract, and loosen faster than high heat. Loose connections create more resistence. More resistence creates heat on top of the heaing cycles, loosening the connection faster till it fails. Then there's oxidation/corrosion from opposing metals outdoor conditions and  the connector disintegrates/disappears, leaving the wire sticking up in the air. 

I bought the bag of high heat because I have two gen 1 40 and the safety snap disk switch takes the same connectors and if the controller fails I'll go to a PID mod I'll use these connectoer to make a power cord hooked up directly to the element. So it was worth $9.00 for 20 high heat disconnects. If you want a couple, PM me and I'll drop a couple in an envelope and mail to you. It's no problem. I sent a couple to DaRicksta last year. 
-Kurt


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## GI Husker 55

This forum is great.... I wish I would have read it yesterday. I had one of the spade connectors to my heating elements loosen and corrode to the point where it would not heat up.  Got it cleaned up and pinched it tight after reconnecting it. It works great again ( for now). I may need to add a new spade connector if it repeats the problem.
Now... my son hauled his MBE 30" smoker to my house for me to use while I was fixing mine. It worked great at his house, but when I set it up at my place it blows the gfi plug that I always use for my smoker. I have used his on this plug before as well. The control panel comes on ok when I turn the power on. I set the temp, and then set the time. As soon as I set the minutes and press set time to enter it, it pops the gfi. Any thoughts before I tear into this one?


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## dr k

GI Husker 55 said:


> This forum is great.... I wish I would have read it yesterday. I had one of the spade connectors to my heating elements loosen and corrode to the point where it would not heat up.  Got it cleaned up and pinched it tight after reconnecting it. It works great again ( for now). I may need to add a new spade connector if it repeats the problem.
> Now... my son hauled his MBE 30" smoker to my house for me to use while I was fixing mine. It worked great at his house, but when I set it up at my place it blows the gfi plug that I always use for my smoker. I have used his on this plug before as well. The control panel comes on ok when I turn the power on. I set the temp, and then set the time. As soon as I set the minutes and press set time to enter it, it pops the gfi. Any thoughts before I tear into this one?


Try a different gfci you have to see if it trips. Some heat element with a hair dryer heat gun incase it absorbed moisture. Unplug then disconnect element to see if the mes 30 heating element reads 18 Ohms on the meter.


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## dogwalker

I'm no electrical expert, I'd wonder if there's a chance the wire is within arc range of the metal.  I added a new end connector and then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape.  I hope you find the problem, it sucks not having your smoker working!  I was without mine a few weeks.  Good luck!


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## GI Husker 55

Thanks for the ideas. I hope to find time in the next day or two to try them out.


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## texassmokes

The exact same thing happened to mine.  I just opened the back plate and one of the connections is completely gone.  I know nothing about wiring but should be able to fix it if I know what im looking for at the hardware store and what I need to do.  I assume I just need a new conector and strip the wire and put it back together?


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## GI Husker 55

dr k said:


> Try a different gfci you have to see if it trips. Some heat element with a hair dryer heat gun incase it absorbed moisture. Unplug then disconnect element to see if the mes 30 heating element reads 18 Ohms on the meter.


I checked the heat element continuity and it is ok.  I also tried different circuits but got the same result. I can't check any other wiring connections because all of the access panels are pop riveted on instead of screws. I suppose I could drill them out for access and then replace with screws. Any thoughts?


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## hoity toit

mine does the same thing. I just plug into a "non" gfci outlet and it works fine.


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## GI Husker 55

I ran a cord from inside the house out to the smoker. It seems to work fine now since it's not on a GFI circuit. It's really strange because I had used that GFI circuit several times before with the same smoker. Thanks for the help everyone.


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## texassmokes

I was having the same issue with my gfci, after talking to an electrician he suggested I replace the gfci since after it trips a couple times makes it a ot easier to trip.  Replaced it and haven' had any issues since.


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## hoity toit

GI Husker 55 said:


> I ran a cord from inside the house out to the smoker. It seems to work fine now since it's not on a GFI circuit. It's really strange because I had used that GFI circuit several times before with the same smoker. Thanks for the help everyone.



Glad to be of assistance,

HT


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## dr k

texassmokes said:


> I was having the same issue with my gfci, after talking to an electrician he suggested I replace the gfci since after it trips a couple times makes it a ot easier to trip.  Replaced it and haven' had any issues since.


At what point do you replace the gfci because it's faulty?  Anyone know of a device to test the gfci?
-Kurt


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## daveomak




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## James Tune

I am replacing the heater element right now. It's a rusty mess in mine. I have no idea which wire goes where. Does it matter. I know where the ground went and have that one straight.


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## daveomak

No difference...  either wire, either end of the heating element...   Clean the ends well, use fine sandpaper to clean off the corrosion...  New wire ends or solder the wires directly to the element lugs, that will prevent lousy contact...  don't worry about the element melting the solder, the ends do not get hot...   The heat comes from resistance...  no resistance in the first 1/2" of the element.. or not enough to get to ...   "Solder is a metal alloy that is fusible. The kind typically used in electrical soldering melts at *370 degrees Fahrenheit..."*


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## James Tune

Thx. I thought that it wouldn’t matter. I wired, new connections. Fired it up. Will be smoking again this week. 
I have that whole problem with the GFCI too. Do I replace the outlet or the breaker?




daveomak said:


> No difference...  either wire, either end of the heating element...   Clean the ends well, use fine sandpaper to clean off the corrosion...  New wire ends or solder the wires directly to the element lugs, that will prevent lousy contact...  don't worry about the element melting the solder, the ends do not get hot...   The heat comes from resistance...  no resistance in the first 1/2" of the element.. or not enough to get to ...   "Solder is a metal alloy that is fusible. The kind typically used in electrical soldering melts at *370 degrees Fahrenheit..."*


x


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## daveomak

GFCI's "do" wear out...  try it first..  Probably was the wiring problem that tripped it...


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## texassmokes

So I replaced on of my connctors and fired her up and started just fine.  Until the other one started smoking.  Unplugged it and took of the other one to replace, only problem is the end to plug it into is completely gone now.  Any chance of replacing it or do I need to buy a new smoker?


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## daveomak

With a pair of pliers or side cutters, try to crumble the "cal-rod" coating to expose a section of the resistance wire..  then solder the electric wire to it...   clean it well with sand paper first.. use soldering paste...  should work..  If solder doesn't work, crimp a butt connector or spade lug to the wire...


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## texassmokes

I don' have access to a soldering device but might just get one for this purpose if it isn' to expensive.  Is that the only option?


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## daveomak

It's the best...  Removes the possibility of a loose or corroded connection, which cause the problem in the first place...  If you get a small soldering iron, clean the tip, coat the newly cleaned tip by adding solder to a hot tip, then lightly wipe with a wet/damp paper tower.. do the same to the resistance wire inside the element...   that process is called "tinning"..  then put the two wires together and solder....   then cover with some high temp electrical tape...  I use fiberglass electrical tape...  wrap the solder joint well, and you are golden...  probably forever...  my fixed elec. joint's been running for 6 years... .
Cleaning the wire ends with sand paper is a big deal so, take care to clean them well first...   when tinning, the ends should take the solder well...  that's a sign they are clean...  then the solder will take well..  the solder should be shiny..  shine like a "diamond in a goats butt"....


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## texassmokes

daveomak said:


> It's the best...  Removes the possibility of a loose or corroded connection, which cause the problem in the first place...  If you get a small soldering iron, clean the tip, coat the newly cleaned tip by adding solder to a hot tip, then lightly wipe with a wet/damp paper tower.. do the same to the resistance wire inside the element...   that process is called "tinning"..  then put the two wires together and solder....   then cover with some high temp electrical tape...  I use fiberglass electrical tape...  wrap the solder joint well, and you are golden...  probably forever...  my fixed elec. joint's been running for 6 years... .
> Cleaning the wire ends with sand paper is a big deal so, take care to clean them well first...   when tinning, the ends should take the solder well...  that's a sign they are clean...  then the solder will take well..  the solder should be shiny..  shine like a "diamond in a goats butt"....


Ok so I got a solder gun and here is my first attempt at soldering.  The connections feel pretty good and it appears to be working ok.  Now should I put electrical tape around it all before I close her up?


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## daveomak

Yep...  you need to PREVENT the wires from coming in contact with any part of the smoker...  solder joint looks good...


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## Iowapork7749

Dave, additional info that may help for burned off element wire repairs. I repaired commercial kitchen equipment for 20 years. I fully agree with your advice, solder the terminals and wrap with fiberglass tape. The only thing I would add is to use stainless steel terminals as they are designed for hi temp applications like this. The only problem that may cause is difficulty in soldering stainless to copper.


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## daveomak

Thanks Iowa...


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## Ksmithsmoker

ok so now i am looking for the heater element. 
*Part 9907120027*
*ELEMENT KIT, 1200 WATT*
*and yes it is blowed out in the side of it.*
https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/part/2067498/212897/ are out of stock says soon but has said so for a while now.  anywhere else i can get one???? Thanks in advance


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## daveomak

800 watt is available....


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## dr k

I may look for a 1200 watt just to keep on hand.


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## Ksmithsmoker

yeah i hate to buy a lower wattage element for more money, just seems wrong. but it would more or less make it work.  will have to think on it.  approx 3 amp less, quite a bit when it comes to heating.


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## Ksmithsmoker

daveomak said:


> 800 watt is available....


thanks for the info


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## jeffbeck

Well, I wish I had come here before now. I'm on my second replacement element kit from Masterbuilt for my MES 40. Smoker went out initially almost exactly 11 months after purchase (which meant I had a turkey ready to smoke for Thanksgiving when it crapped out the first time). It was tripping the gfci circuit continually. 

Ordered replacement element kit - worked for roughly 11 months again. Went out a few days prior to Father's Day this year.

 Just ordered another kit last week and should be here this week. Now I need to go and check if the wires are burned off or not. The first time they weren't burned off. The darn thing just quit working. They had every reason in the book as to why it isn't working and keeps breaking down. They figure that it's just somehow my fault. Sigh. They want to know how much water I use in the pan. I'm pretty sure If I said I kept it full, they'd tell me that's way too much. If I said about halfway, that wouldn't be enough. There were a few other scenarios, as well. All leading back to "user error" and there's just no way that this element/wiring is a known weak point. At least that's how it felt to me.

Anyway - I'll check on the wiring when I get home. I really like this smoker except for the fact that it keeps breaking down!


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## daveomak

Are you using an extension cord on the smoker ???


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## jeffbeck

daveomak said:


> Are you using an extension cord on the smoker ???


Nope. Straight to the outlet. 

If it wasn't so easy to use - when it's functioning - I'd have taken it out and shot it.


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## Ksmithsmoker

jeffbeck said:


> Well, I wish I had come here before now. I'm on my second replacement element kit from Masterbuilt for my MES 40. Smoker went out initially almost exactly 11 months after purchase (which meant I had a turkey ready to smoke for Thanksgiving when it crapped out the first time). It was tripping the gfci circuit continually.
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> Ordered replacement element kit - worked for roughly 11 months again. Went out a few days prior to Father's Day this year.
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> Just ordered another kit last week and should be here this week. Now I need to go and check if the wires are burned off or not. The first time they weren't burned off. The darn thing just quit working. They had every reason in the book as to why it isn't working and keeps breaking down. They figure that it's just somehow my fault. Sigh. They want to know how much water I use in the pan. I'm pretty sure If I said I kept it full, they'd tell me that's way too much. If I said about halfway, that wouldn't be enough. There were a few other scenarios, as well. All leading back to "user error" and there's just no way that this element/wiring is a known weak point. At least that's how it felt to me.
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> Anyway - I'll check on the wiring when I get home. I really like this smoker except for the fact that it keeps breaking down!


i found on my smoker there is a half inch gap in the sheet metal covering the element, and the element literally blew out on the side. when i can get me a new element there will be a added piece of sheet metal to cover that half inch gap.


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## jeffbeck

Well, I had a box from Masterbuilt show up today! So, when it finally dropped down to the low 90s tonight I went out and got to work.

Here's what I got in the box for anyone that's curious as to what these replacement kits include:







Here's what I found when I removed the back panel:






Yup...connectors had burned clean off the blades. Makes me glad this is outdoor equipment! Here's a better look at the wires:






Check out where the panel gasket burned through:






So, I had no choice but to break out the soldering iron. I don't mind rewiring a guitar but for some reason I didn't want to mess with this. No options, though.






Those blobs of liquid under the soldering iron are both puddles of sweat. Kentucky is a steamy branch of Hell in the summer, and summer doesn't even start until Thursday. That's why we have beer. And bourbon. Numbs the pain.

Got it all wired up and finished off with electrical tape and it's working like a charm now. Came right on and started heating up immediately. Am I going to smoke this weekend? You bet your fannies I am. Just have to decide what it'll be. Leaning toward ribs.

Anyway - my saga has ended for now. I figure I've got about 11 months until the damn thing craps out again. I'll just have to squeeze as much life out of it as I can in the meantime. Hopefully this helps someone out a little bit someday.


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## Ksmithsmoker

jeffbeck said:


> Well, I had a box from Masterbuilt show up today! So, when it finally dropped down to the low 90s tonight I went out and got to work.
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> View attachment 367973
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> 
> 
> Yup...connectors had burned clean off the blades. Makes me glad this is outdoor equipment! Here's a better look at the wires:
> View attachment 367975
> 
> 
> Check out where the panel gasket burned through:
> View attachment 367978
> 
> 
> So, I had no choice but to break out the soldering iron. I don't mind rewiring a guitar but for some reason I didn't want to mess with this. No options, though.
> View attachment 367976
> 
> 
> Those blobs of liquid under the soldering iron are both puddles of sweat. Kentucky is a steamy branch of Hell in the summer, and summer doesn't even start until Thursday. That's why we have beer. And bourbon. Numbs the pain.
> 
> Got it all wired up and finished off with electrical tape and it's working like a charm now. Came right on and started heating up immediately. Am I going to smoke this weekend? You bet your fannies I am. Just have to decide what it'll be. Leaning toward ribs.
> 
> Anyway - my saga has ended for now. I figure I've got about 11 months until the damn thing craps out again. I'll just have to squeeze as much life out of it as I can in the meantime. Hopefully this helps someone out a little bit someday.


did you get the 1200 watt or the 800 watt??  going to smoke some mutton???  miss kentucky food.  now texan.


----------



## jeffbeck

Ksmithsmoker said:


> did you get the 1200 watt or the 800 watt??  going to smoke some mutton???  miss kentucky food.  now texan.


Hmmm. You know, I don't know which one I got. I wasn't aware there was a choice, actually. Is there a good/easy way for me to see which one I got?

They knew it was for a 40" so maybe it's the 1200?


----------



## diythinker

My heating element went out too, i replaced it and it worked. One interesting thing is instead of an open circuit, it tripped the breaker shorting to ground. I documented why and drew out the wiring diagram:


----------



## daveomak

Great video....  Thank you...  Many members will find it very useful.....


----------



## tempnexus

Mine just started tripping.  How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?


----------



## daveomak

Remove the inspection cover and look then wiggle the wires...   If they seem corroded, you can clean everything with sandpaper and solder all the connections...  That will eliminate a place for corrosion to start...  If you crimp, use an anti oxidation grease...


----------



## dr k

tempnexus said:


> Mine just started tripping.  How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?


If you unplug smoker and disconnect the wires to the element and then plug in and turn on, if it doesnt trip it would be the element most likely or wires to the element. When unplugged  and wires are disconnected from the element, if you check continuity from one element leg around to the inside of the smoker touching the metal outside element jacket there should not be continuity.


----------



## tempnexus

Mine just started tripping.  How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?


dr k said:


> If you unplug smoker and disconnect the wires to the element and then plug in and turn on, if it doesnt trip it would be the element most likely or wires to the element. When unplugged  and wires are disconnected from the element, if you check continuity from one element leg around to the inside of the smoker touching the metal outside element jacket there should not be continuity.


Sorry for the delay.
I was able to run the continuity testing and pole to pole between elements it's 18 Ohms.  When cables are connected it's 20 Ohms (makes sense it takes extra length of the cable).  Now what doesn't make sense is the resistance between the pole and the grounding screw that's 14 Ohms...the same between the pole and the back side of the smoker (The exposed metal chassis) it's also 14 Ohms?   Shouldn't there be no connection between the heating poles and the chassis?


----------



## dr k

tempnexus said:


> Mine just started tripping.  How can I test it if it's the wires or the element?
> 
> Sorry for the delay.
> I was able to run the continuity testing and pole to pole between elements it's 18 Ohms.  When cables are connected it's 20 Ohms (makes sense it takes extra length of the cable).  Now what doesn't make sense is the resistance between the pole and the grounding screw that's 14 Ohms...the same between the pole and the back side of the smoker (The exposed metal chassis) it's also 14 Ohms?   Shouldn't there be no connection between the heating poles and the chassis?


Yes it looks like the element is leaking to ground because you have continuity to ground/chassis. I tested my spare element before intalling it so I went spade to anywhere on the element other than the other spade with no continuity. Your element male spade to male spade is correct at 18 ohms but that doesn't mean there is isnt a short from the outside element casing to spade. A new element is needed. I believe there is a seam on the bottom of the element so grease would be a conductor to short the element. I flipped my Gen 1 40 element for even heating, not necessary for the 30s so it also is under a drip pan so no drips on it even down the back wall to the unheated legs that won't burn it off. Thee original element is
	

		
			
		

		
	






	

		
			
		

		
	
 a back up spare.


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## Zachary Wilson

Hello everybody, first time poster here. I’m from Northern California and I’ve been running a MES 40 20070311 model for about 2 years now and until about yesterday it was a solid unit. Running the usual setup (extension cord, same outlet, max 275 degree temp setting) I started noticing that the smoker wouldn’t get past 240-250degrees from the control panel, 250-270 on my external thermometer, then after 10 minutes or so the the burner element would seem to “shutoff” and temp would start dropping dramatically.


I opened up the back panel to look at the burner element wires and the black shrink tubing covers are charred and crisped. Seems they overheated and burned out (thinking from a weak extension cord...will be plugging into wall directly from now on) I did my best to remove and clean up the burned connections on both sides. The burner element spades and the wire spades are still intact and physically ok so I cleaned them up and hooked them back together as they were before (no heat tape just plugged male into female). I closed up the panel, plugged the smoker back directly into the wall and fired it up to max 275 degrees. 


Now lies the problem...after about a minute or two the back panel where the burner element wires are located got extremely hot to the touch, to the point it seemed unsafe. No other part of the smoker was even warm on the back side but the wire panel was hot hot hot. What’s the problem here? Do I need to do a better job reconnecting the spades, cover them with heat tape, etc? Do a full replace job of the spade connects with high heat versions like this message board suggests? Or does it look like the burner element is failing? Or D, all of the above?


Sorry for the winded message, thought I needed to lay out the details. 

Please let me know if you have any thoughts or ideas on the issue. 


Thanks, appreciate it


Best,

Zack


----------



## dr k

Zachary Wilson said:


> Hello everybody, first time poster here. I’m from Northern California and I’ve been running a MES 40 20070311 model for about 2 years now and until about yesterday it was a solid unit. Running the usual setup (extension cord, same outlet, max 275 degree temp setting) I started noticing that the smoker wouldn’t get past 240-250degrees from the control panel, 250-270 on my external thermometer, then after 10 minutes or so the the burner element would seem to “shutoff” and temp would start dropping dramatically.
> 
> 
> I opened up the back panel to look at the burner element wires and the black shrink tubing covers are charred and crisped. Seems they overheated and burned out (thinking from a weak extension cord...will be plugging into wall directly from now on) I did my best to remove and clean up the burned connections on both sides. The burner element spades and the wire spades are still intact and physically ok so I cleaned them up and hooked them back together as they were before (no heat tape just plugged male into female). I closed up the panel, plugged the smoker back directly into the wall and fired it up to max 275 degrees.
> 
> 
> Now lies the problem...after about a minute or two the back panel where the burner element wires are located got extremely hot to the touch, to the point it seemed unsafe. No other part of the smoker was even warm on the back side but the wire panel was hot hot hot. What’s the problem here? Do I need to do a better job reconnecting the spades, cover them with heat tape, etc? Do a full replace job of the spade connects with high heat versions like this message board suggests? Or does it look like the burner element is failing? Or D, all of the above?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the winded message, thought I needed to lay out the details.
> 
> Please let me know if you have any thoughts or ideas on the issue.
> 
> 
> Thanks, appreciate it
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Zack


With a 6 ft power cord on the Mes its tough to find a location you want to smoke at without an extension cord and you can't get it the recommended 10 feet from a building. I have a 12' 1875 watt 14/3 guage appliance extension cord that reads 121Vac on the female end I plug my Mes 20070311 into.  The original Mes lugs failed after 11 months.  The Mes lugs have one crimp to hold the lug to the wire insulation and one tiny crimp on the wire for power. With aluminum, copper and steel metals that alum oxide corrosion, heating and cooling increases resistance which increased heat until it disintegrates which its trying to do until you have a bare wire sticking up in the air.  After disconnecting the element wires if you have 12 ohms on the element legs and no continuity on one leg to chasis/ground then the element is good. You can solder the wires right to the element spades or get the high heat quick disconnect lugs to solder to, to keep oxygen from oxidizing/corroding the joint. I dont heat shrink the lugs themselves and I peeled the rubber off the cover plate to stretch over the cover screw heads. I peel one side open periodically when the smoker is unplugged to inspect. I always lean a piece of plywood against the back of the smoker to cover power cord and element access from splashes from rain or anything hitting the back of the smoker just for quick access and the holes are stripping from checking connections so leaving the screws in place and stretching rubber over screw heads works well.


----------



## Zachary Wilson

dr k said:


> With a 6 ft power cord on the Mes its tough to find a location you want to smoke at without an extension cord and you can't get it the recommended 10 feet from a building. I have a 12' 1875 watt 14/3 guage appliance extension cord that reads 121Vac on the female end I plug my Mes 20070311 into.  The original Mes lugs failed after 11 months.  The Mes lugs have one crimp to hold the lug to the wire insulation and one tiny crimp on the wire for power. With aluminum, copper and steel metals that alum oxide corrosion, heating and cooling increases resistance which increased heat until it disintegrates which its trying to do until you have a bare wire sticking up in the air.  After disconnecting the element wires if you have 12 ohms on the element legs and no continuity on one leg to chasis/ground then the element is good. You can solder the wires right to the element spades or get the high heat quick disconnect lugs to solder to, to keep oxygen from oxidizing/corroding the joint. I dont heat shrink the lugs themselves and I peeled the rubber off the cover plate to stretch over the cover screw heads. I peel one side open periodically when the smoker is unplugged to inspect. I always lean a piece of plywood against the back of the smoker to cover power cord and element access from splashes from rain or anything hitting the back of the smoker just for quick access and the holes are stripping from checking connections so leaving the screws in place and stretching rubber over screw heads works well.



Thanks for the reply dr k. Good to know about the extension cord, I have a 25ft 10 gauge so making the assumption it is sufficient. Also love the plywood shelter idea, stealin* that!

I have the two cleaned wires connected back to the element legs and I crimped the connection with pliers to ensure it was a tight fit connection. I fired the smoker back up but unfortunately it still heats up to about 230 degrees then cools down even with the red heating light still going. Guessing it’s a bad heating element? Going to get a replacement and hopefully that gets it back up and running again. Any ideas or thoughts on the issue would be appreciated. Thanks again


Best,

Zack


----------



## dr k

Zachary Wilson said:


> Thanks for the reply dr k. Good to know about the extension cord, I have a 25ft 10 gauge so making the assumption it is sufficient. Also love the plywood shelter idea, stealin* that!
> 
> I have the two cleaned wires connected back to the element legs and I crimped the connection with pliers to ensure it was a tight fit connection. I fired the smoker back up but unfortunately it still heats up to about 230 degrees then cools down even with the red heating light still going. Guessing it’s a bad heating element? Going to get a replacement and hopefully that gets it back up and running again. Any ideas or thoughts on the issue would be appreciated. Thanks again
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Zack


If it heats to 230* then cools with the heating light on, on the controller, it can be the dime size snap disc over heat sensor failing on the back wall, opening the circuit to the element at too low of a temp instead of over 302*.  Some have tried an ice cube on it to cool it down quickly to see if it heats up again.  I don't have an access like the newer models to bypass it so I'd have to cut an access panel with a dremel tool to get to it. Just checking to see if the two tests in last post were good or bad with 12 OHMS and no continuity on one leg with the one probe and the other probe on the chassis.  I have marked on the back of my smoker where the snap disc sensor is in case I have to bypass it with a quick cut out, cutting horizontal from above then two vertical cuts to avoid the wires that come up from the bottom of the smoker.


----------



## Zachary Wilson

dr k said:


> If it heats to 230* then cools with the heating light on, on the controller, it can be the dime size snap disc over heat sensor failing on the back wall, opening the circuit to the element at too low of a temp instead of over 302*.  Some have tried an ice cube on it to cool it down quickly to see if it heats up again.  I don't have an access like the newer models to bypass it so I'd have to cut an access panel with a dremel tool to get to it. Just checking to see if the two tests in last post were good or bad with 12 OHMS and no continuity on one leg with the one probe and the other probe on the chassis.  I have marked on the back of my smoker where the snap disc sensor is in case I have to bypass it with a quick cut out, cutting horizontal from above then two vertical cuts to avoid the wires that come up from the bottom of the smoker.



“Just checking to see if the two tests in last post were good or bad with 12 OHMS and no continuity on one leg with the one probe and the other probe on the chassis.” - Will confess dr k I’m not familiar with doing this. I assume this is with a multimeter? I’m not capable of doing that sorry.

I’m going to try the ice cube test that daveomak suggested earlier in this post when I get back home from work. 



daveomak said:


> So it won't turn back on after it cools to say, 70 degrees or so ???   if it's the over temp snap switch it should....   ONLY because your smoker warms up when turned on....
> 
> The snap switch is the round button thing on the left side, back wall of the smoker body.....
> 
> Try this...  put an ice cube on it to cool it off fast and cold...  The smoker should turn on when that is done.....  unless something is haywire with the "re-wire" project you did...
> 
> What all did you re-wire ??  Can you check the continuity of the wires to heating element connections ??   Are the connections solid and tight. ??



I’m now thinking it might be a blown Temperature Control Switch (TCO) as that makes the most sense with the known symptoms. Thinking about replacing it which is what another member did with success it seems...


texascoast said:


> Happy New Year to everyone  from TexasCoast!
> 
> Well here is my report on replacing the Element in the MES 30.
> 
> I actually found Two problems, a Blown Electric Element and the Temperature Control Switch (TCO) was also blown!
> 
> I replaced both of these items and the MES is up and working again.
> 
> The TCO is the small dime size sensor inside the back of the smoker, mine was located on the left side of the back panel.
> 
> You will need to take off the back of the unit to get to the TCO, it is contained in a small metal enclosure.
> 
> The TCO can be checked with a multimeter, it should show 0 ohms, if the meter shows infinity then the TCO is bad.
> 
> Below is what I ordered from Amazon.com to replace the TCO.
> [h1]*Amico 5 Pcs KSD301 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat 150 Celsius N.C.*[/h1]
> 150 Celsius converts to *302 Fahrenheit*, the max. temp for the MasterBuilt Electric is 275deg. so I figured 302deg. F. would be safe.
> 
> I have had the unit running between 250 & 275 deg. for most of the day, No problems.
> 
> I hope this Post helps someone else. I thought my unit was DOA for sure!
> 
> I will be ordering another Element just to have in hand!




...Any info on replacing that part on the 20070311 model? dr k you mentioned we’re not able to bypass on our models but can you still replace it? Does anyone have a step by step procedure for that who doesn’t mind sharing it? Would be very helpful.

This is what I’m looking at for a replacement. Want to maintain that 302* max that masterbuilt utilizes.



Thanks, Zack


----------



## dr k

Zachary Wilson said:


> “Just checking to see if the two tests in last post were good or bad with 12 OHMS and no continuity on one leg with the one probe and the other probe on the chassis.” - Will confess dr k I’m not familiar with doing this. I assume this is with a multimeter? I’m not capable of doing that sorry.
> 
> I’m going to try the ice cube test that daveomak suggested earlier in this post when I get back home from work.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m now thinking it might be a blown Temperature Control Switch (TCO) as that makes the most sense with the known symptoms. Thinking about replacing it which is what another member did with success it seems...
> 
> 
> 
> ...Any info on replacing that part on the 20070311 model? dr k you mentioned we’re not able to bypass on our models but can you still replace it? Does anyone have a step by step procedure for that who doesn’t mind sharing it? Would be very helpful.
> 
> This is what I’m looking at for a replacement. Want to maintain that 302* max that masterbuilt utilizes.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Zack


Once you access the snap disc safety switch/sensor you may as well put on high heat connectors like the element.  So cut the lugs off and strip the wires and wire nut them together to bypass the snap disc and see if that solves the problem then order parts. You can always run it this way, keeping an eye on it more just for runaway smoker potential.


----------



## daveomak

MB uses cheap connections....  Corrosion causes resistance...  resistance causes heat....  Clean the element legs with sandpaper...  Strip back the wiring to good wire...  Solder the wires to the legs...  tin both first...   then cover with shrink wrap....  Good connections, no heat...


----------



## Zachary Wilson

dr k said:


> Once you access the snap disc safety switch/sensor you may as well put on high heat connectors like the element.  So cut the lugs off and strip the wires and wire nut them together to bypass the snap disc and see if that solves the problem then order parts. You can always run it this way, keeping an eye on it more just for runaway smoker potential.





daveomak said:


> MB uses cheap connections....  Corrosion causes resistance...  resistance causes heat....  Clean the element legs with sandpaper...  Strip back the wiring to good wire...  Solder the wires to the legs...  tin both first...   then cover with shrink wrap....  Good connections, no heat...



I want to replace both the element connections and the snap disc connections with high heat connectors but I’m really not familiar with soldering and wouldn’t want this to be my first thing I try. I’m going to replace the element with a standard replacement kit from ApplianceFactoryParts.com and then the snap disc from Amazon I previously sent a link for. I realize these are temporary fixes and the issue could easily happen again but I just want to get it back working normally as soon as possible.

Thanks again for the help

- Zack


----------



## Zachary Wilson

i changed my mind... I’m going to replace the original MES connectors with new high heat connectors for both the heating element and the snap disc (TCO). I need to do this by cutting off original connectors, strip the wire back to slide new high heat connector in, and then I need to crimp the new connection in place and not solder (don’t have a soldering gun and have never soldered before so need to crimp). Once new high heat connections are installed I’ll plug them back into the burner element spades and the snap disc spades and crimp them with pliers to secure. Then I’ll cover all wires with heat shrink wrap and cover the new connections with high heat polyimide film tape. Thought? Will crimping and not soldering new high heat connectors work here? Below are the connectors I plan to use.


----------



## daveomak

Be sure to use DE-OX of some kind where you crimp and where the connectors slide together....  They have it in small tubes...  You box store has it in 1 oz. tubes....  in the electrical dept....
AND clean the wires etc. with sand paper...  Oxidation is resistance which will cause it to burn up the stuff again....


----------



## Zachary Wilson

daveomak said:


> Be sure to use DE-OX of some kind where you crimp and where the connectors slide together....  They have it in small tubes...  You box store has it in 1 oz. tubes....  in the electrical dept....
> AND clean the wires etc. with sand paper...  Oxidation is resistance which will cause it to burn up the stuff again....


Right, will do. Thanks


----------



## Zachary Wilson

So I identified my problem as a bad KSD301 Thermostat. After I popped open the back I replaced the thermostat and it started working again like normal. No problem reaching and keeping max 275*.


Issue I now have is while trying to determine the cause of my initial problem I disconnected the burner element from its wires. Now reconnecting them and crimping them together and covering with anti-oxidant compound results in the left side wire smoking. Nothing crazy but it’s definitely reaching smoke point. Right side connection seems ok. I added a picture which shows the connection, it’s hard to see the smoke but it’s there. Is this something I can fix by crimping harder? Or will this eventually burn off? Maybe too much compound?


Or is it time to cut off original connector and replace with high heats like my original plan was? Didn’t want to do that but will if I have to.


Any thoughts would be appreciated 













Thanks


----------



## daveomak

The De-Ox is supposed to be a coating between the connectors...  Put it on before assembly...  Some on the outside is OK also...


----------



## dr k

Zachary Wilson said:


> So I identified my problem as a bad KSD301 Thermostat. After I popped open the back I replaced the thermostat and it started working again like normal. No problem reaching and keeping max 275*.
> 
> 
> Issue I now have is while trying to determine the cause of my initial problem I disconnected the burner element from its wires. Now reconnecting them and crimping them together and covering with anti-oxidant compound results in the left side wire smoking. Nothing crazy but it’s definitely reaching smoke point. Right side connection seems ok. I added a picture which shows the connection, it’s hard to see the smoke but it’s there. Is this something I can fix by crimping harder? Or will this eventually burn off? Maybe too much compound?
> 
> 
> Or is it time to cut off original connector and replace with high heats like my original plan was? Didn’t want to do that but will if I have to.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts would be appreciated
> 
> View attachment 388488
> 
> View attachment 388489
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


The problem with the alum Mes quick disconnects is that unacceptable tiny strip that crimps to the wire. If corrosion has compromised it there's even less contact so it's unsuitable for the 10 amps going through it so more resistance is higher heat.  It's going to disintegrate. New high heat lugs crimped on will contact more wire with the longer barrel. You may have broken strands inside the insulation at the lug that is smoking the insulation.  You may have to use a razor to cut through the high heat braiding before striping the insulation inside to keep the strands intact. Time for new lugs.


----------



## Zachary Wilson

dr k said:


> The problem with the alum Mes quick disconnects is that unacceptable tiny strip that crimps to the wire. If corrosion has compromised it there's even less contact so it's unsuitable for the 10 amps going through it so more resistance is higher heat.  It's going to disintegrate. New high heat lugs crimped on will contact more wire with the longer barrel. You may have broken strands inside the insulation at the lug that is smoking the insulation.  You may have to use a razor to cut through the high heat braiding before striping the insulation inside to keep the strands intact. Time for new lugs.





daveomak said:


> The De-Ox is supposed to be a coating between the connectors...  Put it on before assembly...  Some on the outside is OK also...



Thanks daveomak appreciate the info. I redid the connections with better use of the de-ox but still see slight smoking from that left connection.

Going to bite the bullet and follow dr k advice (well I guess everyone’s advice) and cut off the old MES connectors and rewire new high heat connectors. I have the new lugs coming from amazon today so hoping to have this fixed sometime soon. Will post if this solves the problem or not, assuming there’s somebody out there this might help.

Thanks again for the help.


----------



## dogwalker

Dr K and others,

I used the high-temp connectors in May 2017, and my 20070311 ran great for 18 months, and then repeated the problem again right at Thanksgiving 2019 (of course!).  I was able to smoke the pork shoulder on my weber grill with SnS, but I really, really want to use my MES.

I still have some high-temp connectors and will replace the connector on the right side again (that's the one that burns up), but I was wondering if there's anything else I can do to improve my chances, or should I just check the connection every 12 months? Daveomak, you recommended DE-OX, will that help, and can I apply it after the fact (specifically, I'd like to repair the connection today and order the DE-OX and apply it when I receive it). I have the connector itself and the "joint" (is that the right word?) where I splice my new wire to the thin Masterbuilt wire.

Ok, I found something called DeoxIt at Amazon as well ().  Would I buy this and the DE-OX, or is this enough?  Since I would have it tomorrow, that would be great.

One other question.  Masterbuilt sells the replacement heating element for $20.  Would that fix the problem, or just postpone it?

Ok, shoot, I liked - another question.  Do any of you know whether newer MSE models have this problem?  If they fixed it, I could start watching for a good sale (even next Black Friday a year from now) and have two smokers.  :-)

Thanks!


----------



## dr k

dogwalker said:


> Dr K and others,
> 
> I used the high-temp connectors in May 2017, and my 20070311 ran great for 18 months, and then repeated the problem again right at Thanksgiving 2019 (of course!).  I was able to smoke the pork shoulder on my weber grill with SnS, but I really, really want to use my MES.
> 
> I still have some high-temp connectors and will replace the connector on the right side again (that's the one that burns up), but I was wondering if there's anything else I can do to improve my chances, or should I just check the connection every 12 months? Daveomak, you recommended DE-OX, will that help, and can I apply it after the fact (specifically, I'd like to repair the connection today and order the DE-OX and apply it when I receive it). I have the connector itself and the "joint" (is that the right word?) where I splice my new wire to the thin Masterbuilt wire.
> 
> Ok, I found something called DeoxIt at Amazon as well ().  Would I buy this and the DE-OX, or is this enough?  Since I would have it tomorrow, that would be great.
> 
> One other question.  Masterbuilt sells the replacement heating element for $20.  Would that fix the problem, or just postpone it?
> 
> Ok, shoot, I liked - another question.  Do any of you know whether newer MSE models have this problem?  If they fixed it, I could start watching for a good sale (even next Black Friday a year from now) and have two smokers.  :-)
> 
> Thanks!


The OEM aluminum connectors and being in contact with the steel element spades and the wire maybe aluminum (I don't know if it's copper) but these opposing metals will create aluminum oxide and corrodes the joint creating a loose contact and more resistance = more heat till it disintegrates. If you tin the wire so it's coated in molten solder and when solid slide it into the lug and heat till molten and add solder to the lugs or directly solder the tinned wire to the element spades, then no oxygen to create alum oxide if the wire is aluminum.  I peeled the rubber gasket off the element access plate and streched the holes over the screw heads.  I can peek periodically when the smoker is unplugged to check the lugs.  I lean a board against the  back off the smoker so nothing hits the access area.  My holes in the back are mostly stripped so the screws are in them and the rubber gasket keeps me from stripping them more from removing the plate.


----------



## skidaddy74012

Thanks for the info. I took the back plate off and found the left wire completely burned off at the blade/spade connector. There is very little left to the blade and what is there is rusty and has a hole in it. Can I attach a new blade(male end on the element) or solder directly to the element?


----------



## daveomak

Soldering direct works best....   Nothing to corrode when you have a good electrical connection....


----------



## pwaller24

The heating element in my MES 30 fried.  It arced on the plate underneath it some how.  I'm assuming it was the 800 watt element as that is what is listed as the replacement.  Could I use the 1200 watt kit in my smoker?


----------

