# Saving a Cast Iron Skillet



## abelman (Dec 29, 2007)

We recently found a skillet in the house that frankly I had never seen before. The problem is, it was not dried right at some point and there is some rust in it. 


The question is, is there a way to get rid of the rust without ruining the cast iron skillet?  
Here's a picture. The picture makes it look a little worse than it really is:


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## richtee (Dec 29, 2007)

piece of cake. brillo. hard, mercilessly brillo. Then again with veggie/olive oil. then wash and reseason.

Unless you have a sandblaster?


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## rip (Dec 29, 2007)

Self Cleaning Oven. I use to hit the yard sales and buy up cast iron some in bad shape, put them in a self cleaning oven and they look like new. Season and your ready to go.


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## 3montes (Dec 29, 2007)

Put a bit of oil in it. Heat it up on the stove to about 150 to 160 degrees. This will open the pores so to speak of the iron. Add table salt liberally. Take a paper towel or rag and rub the salt vigourously into and around the pan. Wipe it out after you have finished. View the results you may need to repeat several times. When finished reheat pan add oil and put it away. Good luck. I have lots of cast iron and use to cook over open fires quite a bit. Quality cast iron cookware needs to be kept around.
The process above is what I used to clean the pan after each use. Of course you already know NEVER to use soap and water on cast iron.


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## richtee (Dec 29, 2007)

Unless you plan on reseaoning. Brillo works better than salt. down side is soap, but the oil in the iron is rancid by now for sure. It's the LONG road for that pan. BTW  I omitted boiling a couple pans full of water before the re-season...removes the soap.


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## camp_cookie (Dec 29, 2007)

That should be an fairly easy fix.  It looks like one of the Lodge grill pans.

I just received two of my great-grandmother's cast iron pieces that were in my grandfather's old dairy barn.  They are rusted somewhat on the bottom.  I'll be starting my cleanup soon on them.


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## abelman (Dec 29, 2007)

Great , Thanks!

I'll give it a try and I'm sure all will be well. 

Beers for all!!


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## goat (Dec 29, 2007)

That skillet does not look that bad to me.  I would wash it and scrub the rusted area with a scrubber of some sorts and then dry it off.  I would then place it on a burner on medium heat to make sure that it was dry.  Next I would spray with Pam and wipe the inside of the skillet down to make sure that the entire inside was coated.  Finally I would use it and enjoy it.  Spray it and wipe it after each use.


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## abelman (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks All, I got it resolved. 

I figured I might be making this more difficult than it really was but wanted to do it right the first time.

I used some fine steel wool with some soap. Did 3 applications with a rinse in between. Then, I boiled 3 pots of water to release the soap. 

Lastly, I put some olive oil in and let it sit for 30 minutes at a meduim heat. 

Drained it, used a mild soap and wate along with a mild brush and washed it out. Turned upside doen and let it dry, looks good as new.

Thanks again, all the advice is much appreciated as is the timleness.


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## rip (Dec 29, 2007)

Glad to hear it, hate to see good cast iron go to waste.


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## stan41 (Dec 29, 2007)

Here is a sure fire way to clean cast iron. Put it in a fire. I mean a campfire or barbecue pit with enough fire to get the skillet red hot all over. Don't remove it from the fire. Just let it stay there until the next day when the fire has gone out and it is cool. You will find that the rust has turned to white dust. Wash with plain water and steel wool. Let dry thoroughly, grease it all over, inside and outside and put it in a 300 degree oven for about an hour. Turn the oven off and let it cool down without moving it.
Stan


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## Dutch (Dec 31, 2007)

The following rust removal setup work great for those pots that are really rusted up. I use this setup a couple of times a year when friends bring me their negelected cast iron and when I find a D.O at a yard sale or a thrift shop. This info is from a site that I sometimes visit, especially when I think I have found a really old piece of cast iron-mostly though it turns out the the piece just "looks" really old. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	






*Rust Reduction Electrolysis Setup*

Rust reduction via electrolysis is almost harder to say than it is to set up. While it appears to be a way to remove rust, it is actually a rust reduction method whereby hard red rust (ferrous oxide) is reduced to soft black rust (ferric oxide). There is not much to setting up an electrolysis bath and this simple process will produce spectacular results on rustiest, crustiest, carbon-caked cast iron utensils you can find. There are only four components necessary for the entire setup...

1. A Battery Charger.
While any charger will work, a 12-volt charger capable of 35 to 40 amps is ideal. A 6-volt charger or a trickle charger will work, but will be extremely slow.

2. A non-conductive tu b or container.
This is to hold the solution and must be non-metallic. A five gallon bucket, an old cooler, a Rubber-Maid tub, a plastic 55 gallon barrel, anything that will hold the rusty utensil will work.

3. A non-conductive rack to hold the cast iron away from the anode. A plastic parts bin or dish rack will work nicely. 

4. A supply of Sodium Carbonate. This is to create an electrolyte solution that is capable of carrying the current created by the battery charger. Two readily available sources are "PH+" (a swimming pool additive available at Wal-Mart or any pool supply house), or "ARM and HAMMER WASHING SODA" (Not Baking SODA). This is a laundry detergent available at most grocery stores. Itâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]s in a big yellow box just like the baking soda and is found with the Tide, Oxi-Clean, Clorox, etc... Use 1 Tablespoon per gallon of water in your container. This does not have to be an exact measurement. Another measurement is two handfuls per every five gallons. Make sure the soda is well dissolved in the water.

5. Two chunks of metal. The one you want to clean and another you donâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t. Any cast iron cooking utensil can be cleaned. Cooked on carbon, rusty, and the worse it is the better it will look. The other piece is technically called the anode. It is what we will be electroplating with the rust from our good piece. Just about anything metallic can be used for your anode. Re-bar, angle iron, coffee cans, shovels, cultivator sweeps, whatever you have handy. The ultimate is stainless steel as it will be less affected by the process, but donâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t use your wifeâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]s stainless steel potato masher without permission (voice of experience here). The larger the surface area of the anode and the more it surrounds the article to be cleaned the better. Try a coffee can with the lid flipped up and the side split and spread out. It makes an easy one to start with. Now comes the fun part.

You must rig your setup in such a way so as to suspend the article to be cleaned next to but not touching the anode. Old dishwasher racks, bolts, c-clamps, bar clamps, duct tape, baling wire, let your imagination run wild. The desired result will have the anode secured and the part to be cleaned next to, above, or below it but again not touching. If something doesnâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t look right, stick your hand in the water and straighten it out. The solution is harmless. Make sure it is secure enough so that a bump wonâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t tip something over. Now for the critical part... the red (positive) battery clamp must be attached to the anode (scrap piece), and the black (negative) clamp MUST be attached to the part to be cleaned!!!

Now hook your red clamp to your scrap iron and the black clamp to your griddle. Make sure you have a good connection. Use copper wire and more clamps if you need to completely submerge your piece. If it will only partially fit in the tub, you can turn it over and do it in two or more sessions. There will be no lap marks. Try not to allow the red clamp to come into contact with the solution as it will be attacked by the process. The other (black lead) may come in contact with the solution but will have to be cleaned frequently.

Now turn the charger on! If equipped the charger amp gauge will jump slightly. Bubbles should immediately start coming from around the iron pan. If not, check your connections. Make sure you have good metal to metal contact at all points. Let it run for an hour or so and check your results. Always turn off the charger before playing in the solution. If you donâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t it will let you know. You will see a black coating on the cleaned part. This can be removed by an air compressor or by washing. Bare metal will lie underneath. The bubbling action is what cleans the cooked on carbon off. Sometimes it needs a little more time to clean. But this method is self-correcting in that you cannot over cook it. The clean metal will stay just the way it is and the crud will be removed. Let it cook for 6 or 8 hours and come back to it. The carbon will fall off. Polish it a bit with your favorite method if you want, but it is not necessary. Season it soon as it is extremely susceptible to rusting at this point. Now go show it off to your spouse.

_JUST A COUPLE WORDS OF CAUTION. _The bubbles coming from the process are pure hydrogen. It is extremely flammable. Do not set it up by an open pilot light, and make sure you have some ventilation. Failure to do so will probably wind you up on the Darwin List.

The solution will become rather â€˜horribleâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji] looking in just a short time. But the solution will last forever. Only add water for whatever evaporates, as the sodium carbonate will stay suspended. When you canâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t take the look anymore, simply dump it out in the yard. It is iron enriched laundry water at this point.

Be ingenious with your setup. Try whatever seems right. Hook two anodes together with a copper wire and do two sides at once. Find something plastic to set your part in. Resurrect that old cooler with no lid and set it up. Hit the brakes hard and have your spouse grab that great looking piece of stainless in the barrow pit. Start buying those really rusty pieces of iron because you love the challenge. Try it once and youâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]ll never go back. And all that old iron will love you for it...


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## Dutch (Dec 31, 2007)

Since I had more than the 5 allowed pics to post, I split the post.

Here are a couple of pics of the cast iron fry pan that is used in the above post. They are a "Before" and "After" pics.


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## walking dude (Dec 31, 2007)

crap dutch, beat me to it.....i was going to post your link to that wonderful detailed thread you started in the other thread


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## mossymo (Dec 31, 2007)

This should be a sticky, I just do not no where it would go; Dutch Oven Cooking?

Great topic though.....


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## richtee (Dec 31, 2007)

This is just TOO freaking cool! 

And heed the hydrogen warning... open spaces, air flow, no ignition sources. let the Hindenberg serve as an example.


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## Dutch (Dec 31, 2007)

Mossy-a "sticky" it is. This is also posted as a "sticky post" in the General Dutch Oven forum.


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## packplantpath (Dec 31, 2007)

This method does work, but a quick warning.  You may pull one out one day and it have a big crack.  Not sure why, but suspect it's due to uneven heating (hot spots) or cooling.  I no longer will do it this way.  An alternative that works quite well is to stick it in an oven during a self-cleaning cycle.  Seems to work pretty well.


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## kookie (Jan 14, 2008)

I was just reading an article in the camp chef catalog that I have. And they were talking about cast iron care and they said to remove rust, soak the area in cola to remove the rust and then reseason. Their web site has more tips and ideas. www.CampChef.com  This artical is in their area for dutch ovens that they sell. Just thought I would pass this tip along. I would think this should also work old enterprise stuffers or anything cast iron.

Kookie


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## camp_cookie (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks.  I may have to try that one.


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## kookie (Jan 14, 2008)

Not a problem, I am glad to help out. I thought it was a good tip. I have never tried it myself, but I figure it must work somewhat if a place that makes and sells cast iron cookware, is suggesting it. Let us know how it works. It's always nice to have more then one option when tackling a progect or problem.

Kookie


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## mulepackin (Jan 14, 2008)

I like, and have very successfully used RIP's self cleaning oven idea. I just run the item through a full cycle. Much cleaner, more even heating than a fire, and alot simpler than electrolysis. Have done it to a number of pieces with no ill effects.


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## papadave (Jan 14, 2008)

Tried this self cleaning oven method with the wire brush afterwards and have made several rusted and dirty skillets and a Dutch oven look like new. Be sure to wash them well with soap and hot water afterwards then re-season.

http://www.gcica.org/clean-iron.html


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## navionjim (Jan 14, 2008)

Damn good idea there RIP! I've giving you rep point for that tip!
Jimbo


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## camp_cookie (Jan 14, 2008)

I just ordered some cast iron cleaner and conditioner.  I'll be using it with my rescue effort and will give a full report.


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## supervman (Jun 2, 2008)

MINERAL OIL (food grade) is wonderful for seasoning cast iron. It doesn't get rancid.


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## mavrick813 (Jun 2, 2008)

Any of you guys ever seen them Big flame throwers that you use to melt snow off your lot with? They hook up to a Propane tank that you'd use on your grill. 








Well I just use that and torch the heck out of whatever neglected Cast piece I may get my hands on. A quick rub down with steel wool after and your back down to bare metal. 

Then wash Water and very little soap, then rinse. 

Then I boil water in it for 30 minutes. I repeat this three times. 

Afterward I'll towel dry and place the item in a 350 degree oven. Let it cook for 45 minutes then rub it down with Mineral oil. Allow to cool on the stove with a piece of Paper towel in the item. 

Now my personal pans only ever get cleaned with kosher salt and canola oil, With a Shammy. You know them ones you dry your car with. Most people that use salt and oil will use a paper towel. But quite frankly I don't like the way paper towels shred up when doing this. 

Mike


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## oldairforceguy (Jul 5, 2008)

There's a guy who frequents flea markets I go to (he sells cast iron stuff) and here's what he does:  He mixes up a strong solution of lye and water, submerges the piece of cast iron in it and then lets it soak for several days.  He says it takes off everything.

If you try this, use loads of safety precautions. I used to work with lye solutions in my early Air Force days when I was manufacturing liquid oxygen and we always wore a full length heavy rubber apron, full face shield and rubber gloves that went up to the elbow. No shorts or flip-flops -- wear long pants, a long-sleeve shirt and work-type, high-top leather shoes.  Even after all these precautions, I was amazed that my fatigue uniforms would eventually end up with holes in them.

BIG SAFETY NOTE:  DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT ever pour water directly onto lye. It will result in a violent chemical reaction and blow everywhere.
Also, use cold water, cause this stuff really heats up once combined. Stir with wood ladle until it's all dissolved. Never use the ladle again for anything else but mixing up lye solutions. Also, read up on use directions, too, so you konw what type container to mix this stuff in.

Remember this little saying and you'll be safe when mixing a lye/water solution:  "It always snows gently on the lake, but never lakes on the snow.  Meaning: lye goes slowly into the water, and not water into lye.

 Once you get your cast iron nice and clean, you can season it. The old timers used to build a big fire, let it come down to a pile of good red coals, then place the cast iron in it and cover it up. Leave it there until the fire goes cold. Oh yes, before putting the piece into the coals, they would coat it real well with rendered down Bear fat (stuff really seals up pores in old canvas tents, too, making them waterproof forever. At least it did when it was still available in the late 60's. Don't know about now, though.)


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## big game cook (Apr 16, 2009)

ive tossed a couple in the bon fire before. you can read the manufacturers name after that. worked great. glad they didnt break.


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## fstarsinic (May 8, 2009)

All you have to do it put your skillet in your oven and put it on a self-clean cycle upside down.  You'll have a brand new cast iron skillet when that's through.  Ready to re-season.


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## fstarsinic (May 8, 2009)

I'm sorry. I see that this was already mentioned. I've done it and it is a miracle.   

So... I'm still not used to 2 things on this forum.

1. Every time I visit a page, I get redirected to a page not found page. Even tho the page exists. 

2. The forum lists the entries upside-down. I hope that's a user setting I can switch.


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## pickyeaters (Jun 10, 2009)

Cast Iron skillets are great because they can last so many generations...like my grandma has one from her momma from late 1890's...dont ask why its been passed down so long...i thinks its because its the same house so its just been there... and with it you can cook with it, use it as a weight(Im sure if you use it to swing, your tennis shot with be that much better) and even defend yourself...you'd hate to be hit with one of those things...


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