# camp chef woodwind constant flame outs



## dethpuck (May 3, 2019)

I have a camp chef woodwind.  Actually my second.  My first flamed out and then caught fire. camp chef sent me a whole new grill.    I am using traeger pellets, and I get wild temp swings 50 plus even up to 80 degrees.  Camp chef sent me a new probe, and still seems like its fluctuating a lot.  I put another email into them.  I've had it for a year, and almost every long cook flames out.  Temp swings start normal, then it gets out of whack, and flames out usually about 3-4 hours into the cook. The only good thing is the fire pot clean out allows for a quick restart once you dump all of the un burnt pellets.  

I usually watch the grill like a hawk, so i can catch it when it flames out, and keep going.

hoping that camp chef can solve the problem.   

I had a traeger for a few years before the camp chef, worked fine for a few years, then got tied of problems with it not starting etc.  

Thinking of going back to traeger for the new 575 pro with the D2 drive.  

Love pellet grills when they work.


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## mike243 (May 4, 2019)

I think I would plug a new control in it,there are several top rated ones out there and most are plug and play,


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## chef jimmyj (May 4, 2019)

I'm not sure what a flame out is. Does it not recognize the temp drop and feed more pellets, so the fire burns out?...JJ


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## dethpuck (May 4, 2019)

mike243 said:


> I think I would plug a new control in it,there are several top rated ones out there and most are plug and play,



That’s what I am thinking I need to do.  Should I try to get camp chef to replace it or get a different controller?  Any recommendations on after market parts


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## dethpuck (May 4, 2019)

chef jimmyj said:


> I'm not sure what a flame out is. Does it not recognize the temp drop and feed more pellets, so the fire burns out?...JJ




Exactly the fire burns out and then the grill overcompensates.  It’s how my first caught fire. Camp chef said it was a pellet bridge.  I vac now before every cook.


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## chef jimmyj (May 4, 2019)

I would think wonky controller over the temp sensor...JJ


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## dethpuck (May 4, 2019)

Yep hoping they will send out a new controller when I give them a call Monday


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## dethpuck (May 5, 2019)

had another flame out today 5 hours into ribs.  .  I would definitely not recommend this grill.


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## dubob (May 6, 2019)

I also have a Woodwind - SG w/ Sear Box - and have not had a single flame out on mine.  I do have an ash problem build up in the barrel and discovered a warped ash clean out plate (slides over to drop the ash into the collection cup under the barrel).  The warped plate was letting the flame/gases escape on the hopper side of the auger tube bottom and pulling the ash out of the burn pot into the barrel.  Got the replacement last Friday (along with a new burn pot) and will replace both today.  The customer service folks at CC have been great to work with figuring out what the problem might be.  I'm still recommending the Woodwind myself, but fully understand why you won't.  Sorry for your having to deal with a very bad situation.


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## bregent (May 6, 2019)

dethpuck said:


> had another flame out today 5 hours into ribs.  .  I would definitely not recommend this grill.



I don't know how common this is, but you're certainly not alone. I had the same issue with my DLX. Temperature swings that got increasingly large as the cook progressed, ultimately ending in a flameout. Tried everything that CC suggested including replacing the controller, probe and pellets they sent to me. Their customer service was great, but in the end they could not resolve the issue and I wound up sending it back. I know of a few other folks with the same problem. The only thing I can think of is that it's an airflow problem. Question - did you install a door gasket on yours?


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## dethpuck (May 6, 2019)

bregent said:


> I don't know how common this is, but you're certainly not alone. I had the same issue with my DLX. Temperature swings that got increasingly large as the cook progressed, ultimately ending in a flameout. Tried everything that CC suggested including replacing the controller, probe and pellets they sent to me. Their customer service was great, but in the end they could not resolve the issue and I wound up sending it back. I know of a few other folks with the same problem. The only thing I can think of is that it's an airflow problem. Question - did you install a door gasket on yours?



No gasket install for me.  Called CC and they are sending a new controller and a burn cup.  Service employee was great. Hope this fixes it.  The wife is not too keen on getting another grill.


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## dubob (May 7, 2019)

I just replaced the burn pot on my Woodwind yesterday.  The instructions were straight forward and seemed simple enough - wrong.  You will need to remove the heating element from the old burn pot.  To do this, you need to loosen the one screw that holds it in place.  The problem was that the original burn pot had the screw on the bottom of the tube the heating element rod fits into.  The 2 wires feeding into the heating element were snaked through the auger tube housing and hopper case in such a way that they prevented the old burn pot from being removed far enough to allow it to be rotated 180 degrees so that I could get a screw driver to it.  I had to completely empty the hopper and then completely remove the hopper so I could remove the bottom plate on the hopper and then disconnect the heating element wire connector so I could snake the wires far enough into the auger tube to remove the old burn pot far enough to turn it and loosen the screw.

Now, when I tried to put the new burn pot into the auger tube, I could not get the heating element rod to go far enough into the burn pot tube so that it extended a little bit out of the burn pot tube and into the burn pot to contact the pellets.  There was just enough soot build up on the element rod that I couldn't apply enough pressure to insert it far enough to extend out the other end.  I had to completely remove the heating element and wires from the auger tube so I could get enough grip on the rod to force it through the new burn pot tube far enough.  The screw on the new burn pot heating element tube is on the side of the tube which makes it easier to get to, but would have been better if it were on top IMHO.

As I was about to snake the heating element wires back through the auger tube, one of the wires came loose from the crimp holding it to the heating element which is covered with a heat resistant sleeve of some sort.  I removed that outer sleeve and re-inserted the loose wire back into the crimp as best I could and pinched it hard to secure it and pushed the outer sleeve back over the crimp.  Then I was able to snake the wire back to the connector and attach it, install the new burn pot, re-install the hopper, fill the hopper, put all the removed grills and diffuser plates back into the unit, and fire test it.  WHEW!  Done; and it actually worked - thank goodness.

I hope your replacement process goes a lot easier than mine.


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## SlowmotionQue (May 7, 2019)

dubob said:


> I just replaced the burn pot on my Woodwind yesterday.  The instructions were straight forward and seemed simple enough - wrong.  You will need to remove the heating element from the old burn pot.  To do this, you need to loosen the one screw that holds it in place.  The problem was that the original burn pot had the screw on the bottom of the tube the heating element rod fits into.  The 2 wires feeding into the heating element were snaked through the auger tube housing and hopper case in such a way that they prevented the old burn pot from being removed far enough to allow it to be rotated 180 degrees so that I could get a screw driver to it.  I had to completely empty the hopper and then completely remove the hopper so I could remove the bottom plate on the hopper and then disconnect the heating element wire connector so I could snake the wires far enough into the auger tube to remove the old burn pot far enough to turn it and loosen the screw.
> 
> Now, when I tried to put the new burn pot into the auger tube, I could not get the heating element rod to go far enough into the burn pot tube so that it extended a little bit out of the burn pot tube and into the burn pot to contact the pellets.  There was just enough soot build up on the element rod that I couldn't apply enough pressure to insert it far enough to extend out the other end.  I had to completely remove the heating element and wires from the auger tube so I could get enough grip on the rod to force it through the new burn pot tube far enough.  The screw on the new burn pot heating element tube is on the side of the tube which makes it easier to get to, but would have been better if it were on top IMHO.
> 
> ...



You may have said previously and if I missed it, I apologize. 

But why was it necessary to replace your burn pot?


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## dethpuck (May 7, 2019)

dubob said:


> I just replaced the burn pot on my Woodwind yesterday.  The instructions were straight forward and seemed simple enough - wrong.  You will need to remove the heating element from the old burn pot.  To do this, you need to loosen the one screw that holds it in place.  The problem was that the original burn pot had the screw on the bottom of the tube the heating element rod fits into.  The 2 wires feeding into the heating element were snaked through the auger tube housing and hopper case in such a way that they prevented the old burn pot from being removed far enough to allow it to be rotated 180 degrees so that I could get a screw driver to it.  I had to completely empty the hopper and then completely remove the hopper so I could remove the bottom plate on the hopper and then disconnect the heating element wire connector so I could snake the wires far enough into the auger tube to remove the old burn pot far enough to turn it and loosen the screw.
> 
> Now, when I tried to put the new burn pot into the auger tube, I could not get the heating element rod to go far enough into the burn pot tube so that it extended a little bit out of the burn pot tube and into the burn pot to contact the pellets.  There was just enough soot build up on the element rod that I couldn't apply enough pressure to insert it far enough to extend out the other end.  I had to completely remove the heating element and wires from the auger tube so I could get enough grip on the rod to force it through the new burn pot tube far enough.  The screw on the new burn pot heating element tube is on the side of the tube which makes it easier to get to, but would have been better if it were on top IMHO.
> 
> ...


Yikes.  I’m not great with tools. I hope I don’t break mine fixing it.


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## dethpuck (May 7, 2019)

SlowmotionQue said:


> You may have said previously and if I missed it, I apologize.
> 
> But why was it necessary to replace your burn pot?


 Camp chef support said there could be an air leak.  Since I’m getting both parts I may just replace the controller first run it and do the burn cup if there are issues still.


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## dubob (May 7, 2019)

SlowmotionQue said:


> You may have said previously and if I missed it, I apologize.
> 
> But why was it necessary to replace your burn pot?


I sent them a picture of the gap between the burn pot and the edge of the auger tube and asked them if they thought the gap was excessive.  They didn't say yes or no but did say they would send me a replacement.  So I installed it.






You will also notice in the picture above some black bumps on the flat surface just to the right of the round burn pot.  That was caused by the ash dump plate being warped and allowing hot gas and ash to be drawn out of the burn pot and leaving all my ash in the cooker barrel instead of in the burn pot.  They also sent me a replacement ash dump plate.  I'm hoping that the excessive ash problem will be eliminated from replacing both of these parts.  There was little, if any, ash in the dump cup when emptying after each cook.  About 99.5% of the ash was in the barrel.  Not supposed to be that way on a Camp Chef pellet grill according to their advertising.


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## bregent (May 7, 2019)

dubob said:


> About 99.5% of the ash was in the barrel. Not supposed to be that way on a Camp Chef pellet grill according to their advertising.



Most of the ash gets blown out of the cup into the barrel on every pellet cooker I've ever seen. My CampChef only had a few teaspoons of ash in the cup after each cook, which made the ash dump kinda useless.


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## dubob (May 7, 2019)

bregent said:


> Most of the ash gets blown out of the cup into the barrel on every pellet cooker I've ever seen. My CampChef only had a few teaspoons of ash in the cup after each cook, which made the ash dump kinda useless.


Yeah, I'm kind of thinking the same thing.  It looks good on paper, but in the real world it doesn't work like that.  I'm disappointed that it doesn't work like they say, but I'm happy with the cooks so far.


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## dethpuck (May 7, 2019)

dubob said:


> Yeah, I'm kind of thinking the same thing.  It looks good on paper, but in the real world it doesn't work like that.  I'm disappointed that it doesn't work like they say, but I'm happy with the cooks so far.  [/QUOTE
> 
> My ash clean out has mostly been used to confirm that I had a flame out and to restart the grill without taking it apart.  Hope my issues sort themselves out soon.  Seems like every pellet grill has its quirks.


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## dethpuck (May 10, 2019)

well got my replacement parts from camp chef.  They sent two controllers and one burn cup.  I looked at both controllers, and they each had two prob temps slots.  One of them had orange lettering for the direct flame model. My current  one only has one probe slot and looking it over it said DLX on it.  Sounds like ones that were giving problems from some other posts.  


hooked up what looked like the newest with the orange letters, nothing happened.  hooked up the second and it worked.  put the grill at 350 and let it flame up it temped up to 356,  and then started its cycle.  I let it run for a bit, and it started at 356 and then went from 339-361.  looks good to me. 

The other day i after i changed the thermometer, the grilll shot up to 400 and was all over the place. 

Fingers crossed that I might be good now.  Doing some beef ribs this weekend


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## dethpuck (May 11, 2019)

Well so far 3.5 hours in.  On hi smoke temps have varied between 188-310 with the new controller.  

When it was time to foil I thought I would try to just put the grill on 225.  Temps still going from 208-296

Not impressed.  Using lumberjack comp blend pellets.


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## SlowmotionQue (May 11, 2019)

dethpuck said:


> Well so far 3.5 hours in.  On hi smoke temps have varied between 188-310 with the new controller.
> 
> When it was time to foil I thought I would try to just put the grill on 225.  Temps still going from 208-296
> 
> Not impressed.  Using lumberjack comp blend pellets.



Wow. 188*-310*.  That's crazy.  So are they saying that "hi smoke" can still  be gotten at 310*F?

Talk about wild temperature swings.


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## dethpuck (May 11, 2019)

Yeah it’s really annoying.  The ribs came out tasty despite the temp swings. Will give campchef a call Monday.  I do have a fire pot to switch out.  I can’t see that helping much.  I think it’s clear their controller is hot garbage.


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## dethpuck (May 12, 2019)

The more I study how pellet grills actually work the more disappointed I am that i purchased the Campchef.  The materials that came with the grill says " Simply select what temperature you want and the grill will control the temperature within 15 degrees of the selected temperature."  With the type of controller Campchef is using it is not possible to come close to this spec.  However based on the packed in materials I was lead to believe that it would perform this way.  If it had a PID controller it might be possible.  I just feel like I was sold a bunch of baloney by them.  

I would be fine with 20-50 degrees, but 100 degrees is garbage, and my old traeger with all of the issues it had it never flamed out during a cook, and certainly not almost every cook.  I'm learning that the temp swings really won't matter, but once it goes below 190 I hold my breath wondering if the thing is gonna flame out and then jet up to 400 degrees to compensate.  

I looked into a savanah stoker or pellet pro, but I don't think I want to dump another 200.00 into this grill.


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## dubob (May 12, 2019)

dethpuck said:


> The more I study how pellet grills actually work the more disappointed I am that i purchased the Campchef.


I sympathize with your frustration DP.  I'm a novice when it comes to pellet grills as my Woodwind is my very fisrt adventure into this new hobby.  I have years of experience with smokers having owned both Luhr-Jensen Big & Little Chief models and a couple of Bradleys.  I never cared about temps, just results.  I just followed the directions that came with the smokers and the results were always good.  I did add a PID controller to my current Bradley, but it was to be able to program different time sequences at different temps and not so much to control temp swings (which with the PID is plus/minus 1 degree).

And my focus with my Woodwind has been 100% on results.  I have not monitored temp swings and don't really care what they are as long as the results are good.  Thus far, every single cook has produced perfect results following the instructions and recipe requirements.  Other than some problems with ash build up and control, I have no complaints with my Woodwind.  But I've never had any flame out issues with mine.  And CC Customer Service has been 100% involved with helping me resolve the ash problems.  I hope you can come to an acceptable solution with your Woodwind and start enjoying that which it can produce.

Today will be my first cook since installing the new burn pot and ash clean out plate were installed last week.  I'm doing 4 racks of baby back ribs for the annual Mother's Day visit by the kids and grandkids.  I'm drooling already.


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## SlowmotionQue (May 12, 2019)

dethpuck said:


> The more I study how pellet grills actually work the more disappointed I am that i purchased the Campchef.  The materials that came with the grill says " Simply select what temperature you want and the grill will control the temperature within 15 degrees of the selected temperature."  With the type of controller Campchef is using it is not possible to come close to this spec.  However based on the packed in materials I was lead to believe that it would perform this way.  If it had a PID controller it might be possible.



If it had a PID controller in it, then plus or minus 5 degrees would have been not only possible, but the norm.

I'm sorry for your disappointment in your purchase.  But it's looking like the only way to get what you are looking for, might be to clean the slate and start from square one with a different purchase.



dethpuck said:


> I just feel like I was sold a bunch of baloney by them.



Well, at least to this observer, it doesn't look like, and most definitely does not smell like "baloney", from what you're describing thus far.

No, from what you're describing, it sounds as though it  has a much different aroma than "baloney".

But on the bright side, you are at least in the "B" section of the dictionary in your description.  Thus it would seem that you're at least warm in your assessment.

You may just simply  need to go a little further down the alphabet in your  second letter selection after the "B", in order to nail it.

On a serious note, many  times, and with many endeavors, doesn't have to be cooking, but many other endeavors that may come to mind, whenever optimal results are discussed, sought and desired, "procedural repeatability", "consistency"  or words to that effect, are also often times used.

If your temps are bouncing all over the place, it might be 20*-50* variance this time, next time, depending on climate/enviormental considerations, day vs night or overnight cooks, it might be more than that, even considerably more than that,  well then it's going to be up to you as to whether or not you'd classify that as "consistency".

But to top all of that off, IF you do get a bad result, and we all do from time to time, well then if your temps were bouncing all over the place, you're left to wonder "did my wildly swinging temps have anything to do with this bad result?"

Conversely, when or if  you get a good result, well did you get a good result "in spite of" temps that saw 100* swings?



dethpuck said:


> I would be fine with 20-50 degrees, but 100 degrees is garbage, and my old traeger with all of the issues it had it never flamed out during a cook, and certainly not almost every cook.  I'm learning that the temp swings really won't matter, but once it goes below 190 I hold my breath wondering if the thing is gonna flame out and then jet up to 400 degrees to compensate.
> 
> I looked into a savanah stoker or pellet pro, but I don't think I want to dump another 200.00 into this grill.



If what you're saying is that you are reluctant to throw good money after bad, well then yeah, I can see that standpoint.

That $200.00 could be put with whatever you can get for your current grill, to go towards something that perhaps you'd be more satisfied with.

Whatever you decide, I wish you the best of luck.


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## dethpuck (May 12, 2019)

Well tried to put in the firepot as suggested by Campchef.  Didn't fit.  it was about 1/8 of and inch too long, or it was slightly off it it was supposed to sit over the raised ring.  Put the old one back in.  At least now I know how to change a hot rod, and when I call Monday, I can tell them I attempted their problem solving solutions.  The new controller was the same as the old one as far as performance.


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## bregent (May 13, 2019)

dethpuck said:


> The new controller was the same as the old one as far as performance.



I'm not surprised. Based on my own experience, as well as several others that I've talked to, a new controller won't fix that problem. That CC controller algorithm is dead simple. It runs at one duty cycle that feeds pellets at a higher rate when below set point, and another that feeds less when above set point. If you measure the duty cycles* above and below set point and it matches what it's supposed to be, then installing a new controller can't possibly fix the problem. And if the auger is turning at the specified rate, and the display temp matches a 3rd party thermometer, then the auger motor, controller, and probe all all working as designed, leaving only a airflow problem as the likely suspect. So either a bad fan, or a leak or obstruction in the air flow. Replacing the burn pot was a good idea, too bad it didn't fit. 

* I don't have the duty cycle times and auger rpm at my fingertips, but I've posted them here before so if you search you should be able to find them.


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## dethpuck (May 17, 2019)

I called campchef they want me to use a rubber mallet to tap the burn pot in.  If it’s still a no go they are going to send me a new hopper assembly


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## SlowmotionQue (May 18, 2019)

dethpuck said:


> I called campchef they want me to use a rubber mallet to tap the burn pot in.  If it’s still a no go they are going to send me a new hopper assembly



Good luck.


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## BC Buck (May 19, 2019)

I did nothing but cuss and replace parts for 9 months with my cc. Look up some of my old post. Good luck!


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## SlowmotionQue (May 19, 2019)

BC Buck said:


> I did nothing but cuss and replace parts for 9 months with my cc. Look up some of my old post. Good luck!



What finally got you to quit cussin' and replacing parts?


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## BC Buck (May 19, 2019)

SlowmotionQue said:


> What finally got you to quit cussin' and replacing parts?


Rid my self of the CC and bought Memphis Pro. The sear box I mounted on side of Pro has parts rusting through in less than one year and they sent new parts but as of next month will be out of warranty. If I get two year out of that sear box I will be surprised. Bought CC Big Gas Grill and they told me it was there best cook stove for camping. If there is a breeze over 4 mph Im not able to keep lit even using barn tin to block wind. How often do you go camping with no wind. The paint job was so poor it needed painting within one month. I will never purchase another CC product.


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## SlowmotionQue (May 19, 2019)

BC Buck said:


> Rid my self of the CC and bought Memphis Pro. The sear box I mounted on side of Pro has parts rusting through in less than one year and they sent new parts but as of next month will be out of warranty. If I get two year out of that sear box I will be surprised. Bought CC Big Gas Grill and they told me it was there best cook stove for camping. If there is a breeze over 4 mph Im not able to keep lit even using barn tin to block wind. How often do you go camping with no wind. The paint job was so poor it needed painting within one month. I will never purchase another CC product.



Wow.

After your saga, I can certainly see why.

I have their Explorer 2 burner stove, and it's OK for what it is.

But after seeing what you and some of the others have written, if I'm ever in the market for another pellet grill, then I'll definitely keep in mind yours and some of the other's experiences.


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## mattyice1410 (Apr 16, 2020)

dethpuck said:


> I have a camp chef woodwind.  Actually my second.  My first flamed out and then caught fire. camp chef sent me a whole new grill.    I am using traeger pellets, and I get wild temp swings 50 plus even up to 80 degrees.  Camp chef sent me a new probe, and still seems like its fluctuating a lot.  I put another email into them.  I've had it for a year, and almost every long cook flames out.  Temp swings start normal, then it gets out of whack, and flames out usually about 3-4 hours into the cook. The only good thing is the fire pot clean out allows for a quick restart once you dump all of the un burnt pellets.
> 
> I usually watch the grill like a hawk, so i can catch it when it flames out, and keep going.
> 
> ...


 
Were you able to figure out what happened? My camp chef just started doing this exact same thing. Customer service told me it was something called a pellet bridge which i had never heard of. Once they explained what that was it still didn't seem right since I usually stir my pellets


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## bregent (Apr 16, 2020)

A pellet bridge is a possible cause, but not very probably IMO.  Does this grill have the new PID controller, or one of the older controllers?


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## BC Buck (Apr 16, 2020)

When pellets bridge off they are not dropping  into auger. You could open pit and look at auger. If there are pellets in auger tube then then problem was not bridging off. Can also be auger motor not restarting and there poor excuse of a controller. They will keep sending you parts till you get fed up and set it out for trash man.


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## mattyice1410 (Apr 17, 2020)

bregent said:


> A pellet bridge is a possible cause, but not very probably IMO.  Does this grill have the new PID controller, or one of the older controllers?


 I believe it has the older controllers...I have a zg model which was one that was sold exclusively at dicks sporting goods. It was on sale at a very good price and im starting to wonder if that's why. I cleaned off the upright therm probe last night before I used it and that seemed to help with the temperature staying constant but didn't have a long enough cook to see if the pellets stopped lighting. Thanks for your input. Hopefully looking at some green mountain grills this weekend


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## mattyice1410 (Apr 17, 2020)

BC Buck said:


> When pellets bridge off they are not dropping  into auger. You could open pit and look at auger. If there are pellets in auger tube then then problem was not bridging off. Can also be auger motor not restarting and there poor excuse of a controller. They will keep sending you parts till you get fed up and set it out for trash man.



They are definitely dropping into the auger. Like the previous guys problem is my grill runs perfectly fine on shorter cooks. Once I get to 2.5 to 3 hours is when the grill stops burning pellets.  This just started a few weeks ago after 2 years of never having a problem with the grill. Thanks for your input.


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## BC Buck (Apr 17, 2020)

mattyice1410 said:


> They are definitely dropping into the auger. Like the previous guys problem is my grill runs perfectly fine on shorter cooks. Once I get to 2.5 to 3 hours is when the grill stops burning pellets.  This just started a few weeks ago after 2 years of never having a problem with the grill. Thanks for your input.


They dont come with PID controllers, that is aftermarket stuff.Next time goes out let cool and look in burn pot. If auger tube has pellets not bridge problem. If pot has pellets controller issue.If empty pot controller and or auger motor.


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