# Programable PID for the DIY?



## dasbear (Apr 3, 2013)

I would like to have a PID that I can program for multible steps like the Aubrins $215 duel probe unit  But I want to build it myself to save some money so is there a programable PID unit duel or single probe available for the DIYer that can handle an element up to 18-1900 watts? Or is there any savings to be had over the pre built  PID from aubrins.


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## dward51 (Apr 3, 2013)

Any PID can handle any wattage element.  The PID only provides a switching signal to a relay which actually controls the load.  PID are available to work with a mechanical relay or contactor (high amperage models are usually mercury wetted contactors) as well as a SSR or Solid State Relay (the more common in smokers). A lot of the Auberins models have both SSR & Mechanical relay outputs so check the model specs if you need a certain type of triggering output.

So first you need to pick the PID that can handle the programming steps you want.  Auberins has a $78 unit that can be programed with up to 30 steps that looks like it would work. This model has relay output (a switch to control power to a external relay). All of the Auberins SSR units are DC triggered, which I am sending the link to their analog relay output model. Their step programable models will not work with a DC triggered SSR "as is".  But, you could use a AC to DC circuit board to provide a DC low voltage power supply to be switched by this PID which would then trigger a Auberins DC triggered SSR like normal, but it cannot be done directly from their PID's if you need the 30 step ramp/soak programming capability. 

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5

You other option is just use a analog relay or contactor.  Auberins has several to choose from and any of them would handle your desired load.  Main advantage of a SSR over a analog relay is analog relays can eventually start sticking (either open or closed) and a PID is capable of very tight temp control which will cause a lot of relay switching. SSR has no moving parts and is better suited for more frequent switching operations.  But a mechanical analog relay will work. I would change the hysteresis band to a little wider range to lessen the frequency of switching (a 2* band would turn turn heating element on at 223* and off at 227* for a 225* set point).  Here is their page of relays.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_31

To get the "dual probe" part of the unit, just add a second unit to monitor you meat temps and trigger an alarm at the desired "done" set point.  Their least expensive units will handle that and they also have units that will trigger an alarm by either temp or time which would be good for a smoker doing something like 3-2-1 ribs, or anything else needing time instead of temp monitoring.

This unit has time & temp monitoring functions and would work great for a food temp/time monitor.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=239

Important observation....

If you are going with a 1,800 to 1,900 watt element you are at the upper limits of what most 120v circuits can handle.  It would probably work on a 20amp breaker, but not all household outlets are on 20 amp circuits, and even with a 20amp circuit if there was anything else running on that line, it would likely trip the breaker. If you go that high in wattage you may be better served to move to a 220v element and run a dedicated power outlet to the smoker. If your circuit is 15 amp you would be looking at a new run anyway so if you have to make the run, might as well be 220v IMO. Do not just swap the circuit breaker from 15 to 20 amp if you have a 15 amp in place now unless you are absolutely certain the wiring is at least 12 gauge from that circuit and all the branches of that circuit.  Most houses are run with 14 gauge as it's cheaper and they only use the larger gauge where required.


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## dasbear (Apr 3, 2013)

Thanks dward51 Just the reply I was hopeing for its been very confusing trying to figure out what components would work together and perform the way I wanted them to. As for the wattage limits issue it must just be a concern for the plug n play units like Brinkman/aubrins and not the DIY units like you say. I fully understand the load issue on the power circuit and wire size as I was the one who wired my garage with all 12 ga. also have a dedicated 220v circuit for a future welder, compressor or smoker so that part is covered I just need to check out your links and go from there if it wasn't for fellow members like you and the SMF forums I'm not sure I would have taken on this project as the electronics part is definitly over my head. I still look forward to any other replies and anyone elses experiences and I will continue to post pics of my build in the fridge/freezer forum for all to see. Im hopeing to have my smoker complete within a month or so than I can get on with the Qview's.


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## dward51 (Apr 3, 2013)

Sounds like you are on the right track.

Also if you look at the PDF manual for the PID's on the Auberins site (files are on the product page), they should have example wiring diagrams for various setups including 220v.  If you have 220v available where you want to run the smoker and are planning on using that size wattage element, I would go 220v for sure.  Sounds like you are comfortable with DIY wiring and safety conscious which is also good.

I've got a warmer I want to convert to a smoker, but I have to run a dedicated outlet to where I want to use the smoker no matter which way I wire it (110/220v).  I'm thinking 220.  It's on my list of "to do one of these days" as it involves crawling around in that 10x10' section of my house that is crawl space under the laundry room (which backs up to our covered porch with 12' ceilings which is where I want to let the smoker live since it will be protected from the weather).  I'm getting too old and fat to crawl around in the dirt (sigh....)

I like the idea of their 30 step programmable model (ramp/soak model).  It would be great for sausage or other meat smoking that you want to adjust the temps in time intervals.  About as "set it and forget it" as you could have. 

Looking forward to seeing the finished product so post build photos as you go.


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## bama bbq (Apr 4, 2013)

Have you looked into the heatermeter build? These guys use raspberrypi to control all kinds of stuff. Here's a link to a blower build for a charcoal pit but you can set it up to turn on/off a heating element as well. https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki/HeaterMeter-4.0-Assembly


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## dasbear (Apr 11, 2013)

OK I could use some input for 2 directions Im looking at on PID's for my 12sq ft freezer build

# 1.
	

		
			
		

		
	







	

		
			
		

		
	
  $215.00 totally programable duel probe

OR

# 2 option is building a duel probe system with these components. I already have the wires, cords and outlet parts  but would have to find/buy a encloser box for the build so is there any advantage of one over the other that anyone can think of?






	

		
			
		

		
	
$78.00 programable ramp/soak single probe +
	

		
			
		

		
	






	

		
			
		

		
	
$11.95





  $37.00 single temp pid for meat temp only
	

		
			
		

		
	






	

		
			
		

		
	
  $14.65





$19.65


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## dward51 (Apr 11, 2013)

Functionally they would be the same. 

It really depends on how comfortable you are working with electrical circuits and DIY projects.  But I think the number of people who have gone the 2nd route (build it yourself) that are in this forum is a testament to how easy it is to build your own. One difference is I'm pretty sure the pre-assembled unit does not have multi-step programmability that the ramp/soak unit does.  That function would be real nice for sausages as you could program the timed steps where you increase the temp in up front.

The only advantage I see for the Auber pre-assembled unit  would be it's a "plug and play" unit completed and ready to go, but at higher purchase cost.  If my memory serves correct this unit also uses a mechanical relay instead of a SSR for switching.  Also make sure it is rated for your heating element wattage.  They have one model that handles up to 1800 watts and another that only handles 1250.

I vote, DIY, but you are the one who will have to build and wire it.


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## dasbear (Apr 11, 2013)

The 215.00 plug n play unit is rated for 1800 watts and I thought that it had the same amount of progamability as the ramp/soak model maybe I read it wrong? I have no reservations about building and operating a DIY control and I think it would look alot nicer too my biggest concern was more about the HASSLE of building something that already exists for about the same $$$ in the end.


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## fwismoker (Apr 11, 2013)

Can't go wrong with any of these that would suit your needs. 

http://store.thebbqguru.com/weborderentry/catalog2.asp?catalog=BBQ Guru Controls Systems


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## fwismoker (Apr 11, 2013)

This is the electric smoker attachment.  Works up to 1800 watts

http://store.thebbqguru.com/weborderentry/BBQ Guru Power Raptor 120V


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## geerock (Apr 11, 2013)

Dasbear
I use the auber units and they have run flawlessly.  Programming and autotune functions are more than you need for smoking.  I had a cheap unit that was a diy and it lasted a week.  Second one DOA out of the box.  Went to auber units and never looked back.  BTW. You must be building a pretty big unit to require the wattage you are using.  You sure you need that much?  The basic 1200 model auber has all the programming and self tune features of the one you are looking at without the meat probe.  If you are going to use a maverick you may not need the mp.  Then there's the 1203 with mp that is good for 1200 watts.  Keep in mind that too much wattage is a big reason for large swings in temp as they tend to overshoot the set point although the auber can compensate.  Best of luck.


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## dasbear (Apr 11, 2013)

geerock, I have a 12 sqft freezer to smoker build do you think a 1200 watt element and controler will do the job to 225> with 40-50# of meat in it?


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## migraine (Apr 11, 2013)

here is the exact one I bought last the end of last year.  Comes with the pid, relay and thermo coupler $38.99

the ice/bold test are off a few degrees, but at the price, I can live with that.  All I needed was a box to put it in(FRYS/Radio Shack) and a few grommets(Frys /Home Deotpot/Ace Hardware).

Instructions were not great, I believe I used the other company mentioned to get a better understanding on the wiring

I haven't mastered it yet, but I can set it for wanted temps and trust that they stay with in range.( i have a MB analogue smoker).  The one neat thing is once it starts to get to the desired temps, the controller starts to pulse the relay to slow down the rapid rise so as to not shoot way past the target temp.(does that make sense?)

One thing I wish was different is that the included thermocouple had spade connectors.  I would rather have a other style of connector, the 1/16" dia. male/female type. 

Cheap for a beginner. 

After all of the issues with the MB 30/40's I'fd rather stick with a my PID to control the temp.  (i really want the glass door to have a better way of seeing what going on.  I have had a few problems with the amzps flash burning or smothering out.  I'm still in the learning stage

If you want to try the same, I can open the box up and take some pictures to show the wiring.of the pid/relay and power input/output....  EZPZ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11088179772...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=110881797723&_rdc=1

-Brian


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## geerock (Apr 11, 2013)

Dasbear said:


> geerock, I have a 12 sqft freezer to smoker build do you think a 1200 watt element and controler will do the job to 225> with 40-50# of meat in it?


I have smoked over 40 lbs of meat in my mes 40 with the auber contrller with no problems.  You say 12 square ft but that doesn't give me the measure of the smoking chamber.  My 65  cubic ft homemade smokehouse runs on both charcoal with a pitmaster controller or a 1325 watt eletric and the 1203 or 1200 auber handles it without a problem.  It will hold up to about 260 on electric all day long.


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## rexster314 (Apr 11, 2013)

Both of the Aubers have solid state switches and have 6 different  programmable steps. Mine works flawlessly and I've only used a 3 step cook once. I don't do fish (yet) but just about everything else in my Bradley with dual element mod. One more thing, buy the plug n play Auber and if something goes wrong, you don't have to deal with different vendors getting something fixed.


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