# Repair help needed!



## bg rtr (Jan 1, 2013)

My 40" MES has fallen to the common problem of a burnt up wire connection with the heating element. About to go to Lowes to get a new connector, but what do I need to ask for?  The one on it was completely burnt up, so I don't have the old one to use as a comparison.  Do these things come in sizes, etc.?  My apoloiges for the simple question - electrical novice :).

Thanks,

Brandon


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## old sarge (Jan 1, 2013)

I would think that you will need to know what the wattage of the element is and the amps that it draws. I'm no electrician but that would be a good starting point.  12 ga wire is good for I believe 20 amps so connectors should be sized accordingly.  So you need to check this as well. Hopefully someone with a lot more knowledge than I have will respond. If this is indeed a "common problem" as you stated, I would expect Masterbuilt to rectify it, regardless of warranty, if it is widespread and known to them.  You may want to give them a call after the holiday. If you've had the smoker for a few years, it may be a signal to upgrade.  Good luck.


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## bg rtr (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks!  Has anyone else ran into this problem?  If so how did you fix it?


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## JckDanls 07 (Jan 1, 2013)

If you use the handy dandy search bar at the top of the page I believe you'll find all the answers you need...  I don't have an electric but I know there has been PLENTY of discussions on this very problem..  If I remember right there was something about heat resistant wires and connectors...


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## 86gn (Jan 2, 2013)

Take a look at this link, http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/a/masterbuilt-electric-smokehouse-wiring-upgrade

I was able to fix mine by just crimping on a couple of new push on connectors to the wires at the element.


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## texacajun (Jan 2, 2013)

BG RTR said:


> Thanks!  Has anyone else ran into this problem?  If so how did you fix it?


There are less expensive ways of doing it but this is how I did it.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/89886/mes-wiring-upgrade-mod


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## deltadude (Jan 2, 2013)

I am not sure you can get heat resistant wire at Home Depot or Lowes....


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## dward51 (Jan 2, 2013)

appliance repair parts warehouses will have high temp wire.  I would use at least 12 gauge as amperage capacity is derated as temps increase


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## jsdspif (Jan 2, 2013)

on my 30" I just put "appliance terminals " on the existing wire . That was 3 or 4 years ago and never had a problem since . I think the appliance terminals are made of stainless steel so they aren't as affected by heat and they won't corrode . I think I'd stay away from the regular ones that you might buy at a automotive or home supply store . I got mine at the little hardware store by my house . They might also call them high heat , stainless , oven etc. terminals . I guess the store by me is a do it best .


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## pleasantp (Jan 2, 2013)

Yep................I had the same problem with a 5 year old MBS.  You need a spade connector.  Measure the size of the spade this connector fits on (probably about 1/4" wide x 1/2" long) spade welded to the heating element.  Make sure the other end has a female connention that will take a 12 gage wire.  It should have a "crimp" end to put the wire into.  If i remember correctly, the heating element has 2 spade connectors......so you can look at the one thats OK to get an idea of what it looks like.

Just strip the insulation on the wire back about 3/8" and insert it into the female wire connector.  Then crimp solidly with a crimping tool or needle nose pliers.  Do a HEAVY crimp to insure a good connection.  If the wire is burned you will need to purchase a short length of high temp #12 wire and connect it to the end of the supply wire using another crimp connector designed for joining 2 wires.  The guy at Lowe's will know what this is.

To be sure the heating element itself is OK, you can purchase an LCD multimeter to check the element at Harbor Freight for about $3.00.  Sometimes they have a sale that will give you one of these meters if you buy something else.  Turn the meter on and set the selector to  the 200 ohm full scale setting.  Thats the section that has the omega symbol on it.  There are 4 other scale ranges up to 200,000 ohms.  If your elect heating element is 1200 watts, you should read about 10 ohms on the meter when you touch the probes to the 2 ends of the heating element.  If you get no reading......then the element is bad and will have to be replaced.  If you get a zero ohm reading (touch the probe ends together to see what that looks like) the heating element is bad.

This multi meter is the last of the Great Bargains.  You can use it also to check both AC (your 120 volt  supply) and DC (any battery) voltage.  Don't forget to shut it off after use................the internal battery will run down after a couple of days if you leave it on.


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## tjohnson (Jan 2, 2013)

I had one terminal connector go bad on my MES 40

Got some SS Terminal Connectors and crimped them on

I did not change out the wire

No More Problems!!

It's just so freaking sad, that a company like Masterbuilt can't spend another $0.20 on stainless steel connectors!!!!


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## bg rtr (Jan 2, 2013)

Thanks!  Very helpful.  You guys are the best!!


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## texacajun (Jan 3, 2013)

TJohnson said:


> It's just so freaking sad, that a company like Masterbuilt can't spend another $0.20 on stainless steel connectors!!!!


This is so true Todd. We all know that this is just one of the issues with Masterbuilt. As you found out about the Gen 2 and the door screws.

In the past most people just trash the hole thing. Some of us dint have the technical know how to replace a .05 cent part with a .20 cent part.


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## texacajun (Jan 3, 2013)

jsdspif said:


> I think the appliance terminals are made of stainless steel so they aren't as affected by heat and they won't corrode  .


High temp steel plated nickel is what most of the High temp terminals are made of.


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