# Dedicated refridgerator for dry aging Beef.. That's my project this weekend!



## slief

There doesn't seem to be a good place here to start this thread so I figured this would be the best place to put this topic. Especially since this endeavor is primarily for the beef. I looked at the drying section and it seemed to be more about drying foods as opposed to dry aging. Mod's, if this doesn't belong here, sorry and please feel free to move it accordingly.

I have been reading and salivating over all the "Dry Aged" success stories here and love dry aged steak. I have done a ton of reading here as well as elsewhere on-line and decided to make a dedicated compact fridge for dry aging. This is design is based on information I have found on-line with a bit of my own variations.  

The idea is that the fridge will be set to maintain a 35*-37* temp while the humidity controller/humidifier will maintain a constant a humidity of between 75% and 80% humidity. I should have this completed by end of this weekend if not tomorrow. The intent will be to test it out beginning next week with a 16-21 day aged prime rib. I plan on doing dry run tests over the coming days. Any feedback is welcomed.  

I plan on documenting this in enough detail so that any of you can replicate this with ease. This of course assuming that it works as I expect it should. Bare with me over the next couple days as I put all the details together. I will edit the list below with links to the parts I used for this build. This will also serve as a how to for those interested.

The list of parts includes:

4.4 Cubic Ft Danby Fridge without icebox

Humidifier

Humidity controller

Wireless humidity temp/monitor

GFCI power outlet

Exterior rated 110V receptacle

12V blower fan

12V AC Adapter (for fan)

*Misc. Parts.

Here is the pile of parts.








First thing was to drill a hole in the fridge to accommodate the power for the outlet that will be permanently mounted in the fridge. Stay tuned. More on that tomorrow..I opted to run the wire for the power outlet though the bottom of the fridge as it was the most convenient.


----------



## sausageboy

I use a small fridge.

No fans, controllers or humidifiers.

Beef is wrapped in several layers of cheesecloth that's been treated with boiling water and then dried.

If humidity needs adjusting I place a damp kitchen towel in the fridge, but there's rarely a need.

The most important thing is to keep the fridge immaculately clean and sanitized.


----------



## SmokinAl

Looking forward to seeing the progress on your project. I've been wanting to build a similar setup for some time.


----------



## slief

Its done! I need to let it sit for the day as I laid the fridge down to get the bottom and the coolant will need time to settle back down. More pics to come tomorrow when I do a test run.

First I added a small power plug on the side of the power outlet box so that the AC adapter for the fan can be kept outside the fridge. I also added a small plug to the exterior so that the AC adapter isn't hard wired to the fridge. Instead, it plugs into a plug on the outside which in turn powers the plug for the fan. 







I then sealed up the hole that the wires run through with some silicone.







The power box  was then mounted and a good bead of silicone was run around it to insure that moisture doesn't get caught behind or below the outlet.







Next the power outlet was installed inside the box. This outlet is an exterior water resistant outlet so it should handle the humidity.







Last was sealing the hole in the bottom of the fridge and soldering on the external power connection for the fans AC Adapter.







Here you can see the AC adapter plugged in to the exterior fan plug.







Fan and Humidity controller plugged in.  







 A shot of the humidifier with the power contraption.. I forgot to plug the fan in for this shot.


----------



## slief

Here is a shot with everything in the fridge. I also plan on making a sausage hanging rack which will be very simple.


----------



## chef jimmyj

Looks Really Good!...Like SausageBoy said keeping it Clean can't be over stated and Staying out of it, is one of the best ways to keep bacteria and mold at bay. Every time you open the door you suck a whole bunch of Bacteria and Mold Spores in with the air...Have fun, I got my eye on this because after my Cheffie Daughter graduates from the CIA , I get her Dorm Refrigerator...JJ


----------



## woundedyak

Nice work! I really dig it! I'm a Danby dealer and in my experience, The Danby has a really hard time maintaining anything under 40 degrees. If you give it plenty of breathing room (1-2 feet off the wall) it will have a better chance of making it under 40. Keep the updates rolling


----------



## slief

Woundedyak said:


> Nice work! I really dig it! I'm a Danby dealer and in my experience, The Danby has a really hard time maintaining anything under 40 degrees. If you give it plenty of breathing room (1-2 feet off the wall) it will have a better chance of making it under 40. Keep the updates rolling






That's great to know! Hopefully that won't be an issue as I drilled my warranty away! I will probably put it in the garage where it's a bit cooler. 

I decided to fire it all up so it will certainly be interesting to see if it can hold 35*.. I have to admit that I am a bit concerned after you mentioning that. 

I will continue to update this thread while I test as well as when I try my hand at aging meat. That should commence Monday if all goes well with my testing.


----------



## rbranstner

Wow. All of that is WAY over my head.


----------



## slief

So far so good!


----------



## slief

It seems as though I have encountered a minor issue. This refrigerator is an auto defrost model. The temp swings on this refrigerator are upwards of 6* or more depending on the ambient temperature outside of the fridge. . Once the compressor turns off, the compressor stays off for a certain amount of time until the cooling plate inside the refrigerator has thawed and is ice free. During that period the temp will rise several degrees until the compressor turns back on.. The thawing process creates another issue. The humidity skyrockets. Note to self: Find a fridge that is not auto defrost. There is a good solution though.

I am very big into salt water aquariums. It's been a passion of mine for more than 20 years. I use a chiller on my tank and the chillers controller (Ranco ETC-111000) is an external digital thermostat that the compressor plugs into. The controller can maintain preset temp within 1 degree. You can actually program what temp the compressor turns on and what temp it turns off. Tomorrow my plan is to re-wire the refrigerators compressor so its controlled by one of the Ranco units. I happen to have a spare. It should be simple and hopefully it will solve that problem and also give me a level of temperature control that would be impossible with a typical refrigerator thermostat. I also think I will end up adding some bottles full of water to the door shelf's to give me a little more cooling surface inside the fridge which should reduce the compressors run intervals.

Here is a picture of what the proposed thermostat looks like... This controller will plug into the wall outlet. The compressor which is also 110V will plug directly into this device. I will need to rig a plug connection to the compressor but that is simple.  The controller has its own temp probe which I will route into the fridge through the drain hole below the cooling plate. This drain hole is where the melted ice drains through during the auto defrost cycle. I will be able to position the temp probe where ever I want which will help me get more accurate temps where ever the meat is positioned on the fridge. More to come tomorrow when I rig this thing up and test it.


----------



## chef jimmyj

It will be some more work and cutting but if you add an Exhaust fan to suck out the humidity controlled by the humidity upper set point, you will need a small Fresh air intake hole also opposite corner, then you have more options...This can be used as a Dry Aging Refer in cool months when it can do 38*F and a Dry Curing Cabinet in warm months when you can run it at 55*F with ease...JJ


----------



## sausageboy

! think that you're over-thinking this.

As long as the average temp is good, some fluctuation is not a big deal.

I would take (and I do) a calibrated instant read pocket thermometer and place it in a cup of water...a travel mug works good...that'll give you an average running temperature.

I also use a hydrometer (cigar humidor type) that can be calibrated.

I've been doing it this way for over 20 years without serious problems.

The extra bottles of water for a bank are probably a good idea.


----------



## slief

SausageBoy said:


> ! think that you're over-thinking this.
> 
> As long as the average temp is good, some fluctuation is not a big deal.
> 
> I would take (and I do) a calibrated instant read pocket thermometer and place it in a cup of water...a travel mug works good...that'll give you an average running temperature.
> 
> I also use a hydrometer (cigar humidor type) that can be calibrated.
> 
> I've been doing it this way for over 20 years without serious problems.
> 
> The extra bottles of water for a bank are probably a good idea.


Perhaps you are right. My concern is that if I want to keep the cooler set to 35* and it jumps to 41-42* during the defrost cycle, that 42* will have an affect on the aging process and cause the aging to accelerate or worse induce premature spoilage. On a warmer day, the temp may rise beyond what I have seen which has be even more concerned.

Also, I was seeing 90%+ humidity during the defrost cycle which also isn't ideal. The controller I was going to switch to will allow my greater temp control while eliminating the additional humidity from the defrost cycle. 

Is your fridge an auto defrost model??

On the subject of humidors, what model are you using for your humidity? After reading your post I looked up some cigar humidor humidifiers and they look much more practical and efficient than the humidifier/controller combo that I am currently using and price wise, they are not out of line with my current combo.


----------



## sausageboy

The fridge that I have is a GE, no auto-defrost.

Just to clarify, I use a cigar humidor hygrometer that can be calibrated.and not a humidifier.

HygroSet II Hygrometer..... 
http://tinyurl.com/6o4ffs8  

You can calibrate it with some salt saturated water inside a small container. 

Calibrating a hygrometer.....


----------



## slief

SausageBoy said:


> The fridge that I have is a GE, no auto-defrost.
> 
> Just to clarify, I use a cigar humidor hygrometer that can be calibrated.and not a humidifier.
> 
> HygroSet II Hygrometer.....
> http://tinyurl.com/6o4ffs8
> 
> You can calibrate it with some salt saturated water inside a small container.
> 
> Calibrating a hygrometer.....



Thanks for the clarification. I have rewired the refridgerator and bypassed the thermostat. I still have power to the fridge light but the compressor can now be controlled through an external thermostat like the one I mentioned above. I have the fridge in a cooling cycle right now. Once it hits 35*, I will shut the power off and let it sit until the temp hits 37* at which point I will apply power again and see how long it takes for the compressor to kick back on. If it turns back on within a a few minutes, I will hook up the new thermostat and route the new temp probe and give it a whirl. I will update this thread in a couple hours with the results. Hopefully the thermal overload switch on the compressor isn't the control point for the auto defrost. If it is, this might just be an effort in futility. Either way, this is pretty simple and would only take a couple minutes to return the refridgerator back to normal operations.


----------



## slief

The new thermostat is connected & the fridge is cooling. I have it programmed to chill to 34* with a 2* differential. If all goes as planned, it will cool until 34 then turn off and back on when them temp hits 36* & cool back down to 34*. My fingers are crossed!


----------



## slief

It looks like it's going to work. The fridge shut off at the preset temp. Once the temp rose a couple degrees, the compressor turned back on. I just fired the humidifier up and the fan and will let it cycle for a hile and see what happens. Hopefully the temps will remain stable to a degree or 2 and the humidity will be consistant. Update to follow shortly.


----------



## slief

It seems to be working great. Its been running for a couple hours now. Temps are stable with only 2* of swing between compressor runs and humidity is holding steady at a preset of 73%. Gone are the several degree temp swings and elevated humidity from the auto defrost cycles. I will continue to run it today and into tomorrow noting temp and humidity changes after which point I will make a Costco run to grab a prime rib. This got a little more complicated than I had expected however its great to be able to set a fridge temp with the push of a button and know that it is spot on as opposed to turning a knob that doesn't decipher the preset temp.   


Chef JimmyJ said:


> It will be some more work and cutting but if you add an Exhaust fan to suck out the humidity controlled by the humidity upper set point, you will need a small Fresh air intake hole also opposite corner, then you have more options...This can be used as a Dry Aging Refer in cool months when it can do 38*F and a Dry Curing Cabinet in warm months when you can run it at 55*F with ease...JJ




Chef Jimmy,

Interesting idea! I am not sure I am ready to start cutting holes in this thing yet.It would however be kind of cool to have electric controlled dampers on the intake and exhaust that would open and close via a humidity controller so that cooling isn't as impacted as much from the vents. Being that this is a smaller refrigerator, I would imaging it will be much more sensitive to that kind of ventilation than would a large refrigerator. Then there would also be the concern of contamination entering from the vents as it would no longer be a sealed environment.  

Here is a shot of my 'Franken Fridge' with its new controller mounted.







Here is a shot of the inside with the new temp probe run into the fridge through the drain hole. I mounted it using an extra Maverick grill probe holder that I had. I can move the probe around as needed as there is plenty of slack between the controller and the fridge. All I need to do is pull some more length through the hole it comes through.


----------



## slief

Prime rib is in! I couldn't wait! I had to run out yesterday and stopped by the butcher to look at Prime Ribs. I ended up bring home a 6 pounder and prepping it last night. I wrapped it in cheese cloth and put it in the fridge. I change the cheese cloth daily for the next few days. The plan is to let it stay in the fridge for 3 weeks. . Temps have been rock solid at 34-36* and humidity hasn't budged from 75%. It couldn't be working better. I will continue to update this thread as things progress. Dinner will be around February 7th!


----------



## chef jimmyj

Ok now I see what you meant by, "They wrapped it in fat"...Yes it was the right call to leave it on...Good Luck...JJ


----------



## slief

Here is a shot of the prime rib at day 3. I forgot to post this yesterday. It's just starting to change color a bit and seems to be drying out slightly.  All is going as planned and the fridge is working great with the new controller! Next pictures will come at day 7.


----------



## slief

Day 7.. Coming along well. I just replaced the cheese cloth which was clean and dry. The meat feels as though its becoming more tender. When I push the sides, it really feels like the meat inside is much softer and easier to push in than it was when I started this process. I hope I have the patience to wait 2 more weeks. There are no odd smells, mold or anything else to indicate any issues. So far I am very pleased. Next update should be in 1 week.


----------



## roller

Well thats pretty cool !!!


----------



## scarbelly

Man that baby is looking great


----------



## chef jimmyj

I you start to get some mold...you can wipe it off with Vinegar...It will evaporate and not affect the meat...JJ

BTW...Quit lookin'!...You suck Bacteria and Mold Spores in when you open the door...I know the Anticipation is Killing You!


----------



## bhaycraft

I am looking to build this same kind of setup to start dry aging steaks at home in my basement. I had planned to run to Sam's and pick up a small micro fridge. I didn't realize I need more than just the dedicated fridge. I plan on using the Drybag steak technology with the breathable plastic bags and vacuum sealer. I would love to get some more detail of what wiring and soldering needs to be done to complete this project especially how you hooked up the temp controller and disabled the auto defrost.


----------



## shooterrick

This is one I am keeping an eye on.  I have the fridge but havent done anything with it yet.  Thanks for the step by step.


----------



## ronrude

What a great post!.  I am looking forward to how this ends up.  It looks like everything is working great.


----------



## slief

bhaycraft said:


> I am looking to build this same kind of setup to start dry aging steaks at home in my basement. I had planned to run to Sam's and pick up a small micro fridge. I didn't realize I need more than just the dedicated fridge. I plan on using the Drybag steak technology with the breathable plastic bags and vacuum sealer. I would love to get some more detail of what wiring and soldering needs to be done to complete this project especially how you hooked up the temp controller and disabled the auto defrost.


For the drybag steak method you would be just as well off by putting them in your regular refrigerator and not hassle with the route that I went. The drybag method does not require high humidity or lots of air circulation. It also keeps the meat safe from cross contamination. That said, for the drybag method, any fridge will do but you will need a special vacuum sealer to do it right and that sealer is sold by the drybag company. I have read about people having limited success sealing those bags with a Food Saver type sealer but its a pain to do and really best done with the appropriate sealer.   

As for soldering, the only thing I soldered was the extension for the fans AC adapter. I chose to use plugs inside and outside the fridge so that I can easily swap the fan and the AC Adapter without having to rewire things.

For the compressor rewire, unless you are familiar and comfortable with AC (Alternating Current) wiring, I don't suggest doing it as you could damage the compressor or worse, cause a fire. That said, most if not all of these refrigerators use a 110V compressor. There are 3 wires in AC wiring. Green which always goes to a ground and ends up tied to the refrigerators frame. Its that little round 3 pin on the power plug. The other 2 are the power. Out of the power plug they are black and white. One of those wires goes to the thermostat inside the fridge and is also tied directly to the compressor. The other wire goes to the thermostat and then out of the thermostat as a red wire which goes back to the compressor.

You can rewire it one of 2 ways. I will stick with explaining the easiest way as the other is much more complicated. I chose the more complicated way so I could retain the light inside the fridge which isn't needed anyway and only works when the compressor is on.

Get a three wire 15 amp power cord from your local hardware store that has only the male connection on one end. The other end should have bare wires. Also get a plug in or portable GFI plug.This provides a circuit breaker at the power source in case of a short and is very important in my opinion.  

At the rear of the fridge, all the wires get spliced together behind a little cover that is screwed on. I suggest removing this cover to access the wires where they are spliced. Follow the wires from the compressor to the splice point. Cut both wires EXCLUDING  the green one that go to the compressor.  One of those wires is red. The other is black or white. I don't remember but its not really important. 

Attach the green wire from the new power cord to the refrigerators frame using a crimp on eye plug to secure it to one of the grounding screws at the rear of the refrigerator. You should see other green wires connected to the frame. Use that mounting point and leave the other grounds connected as well. Next you need to connect the remaining 2 wires from the power cord to the compressor which are the black and white wires on the power cord. Of the 2 wires coming from the compressor, one color will match that of the 2 other wires on the power cord.. The other will be red and will go to the left over white or black wire on the power cord. Connect both the wires to the cord. You can use butt connectors or crimp connectors to secure the wire connections. I always use some electrical tape over those crimp connections to insure they are adequately shielded and protected. You compressor should now be wired up. You can test it by plugging the power cord directly to the wall and see if the compressor turns on. Once you verified that it works, unplug it.  

The Ranco 111000 controllers can be purchased one of 2 ways. Wired or un-wired. I suggest wired as it will include a male power cord for the wall and a female for the compressor. The cord that you just wired to the compressor goes to the female connection on the Ranco controller.Plug the wall side of the Ranco power plug to that portable GFI plug which plugs into the wall socket.  Program the controller to your desired temp and desired off set and you are done. Make sure you have a good remote device to remotely monitor both temp and humidity. Many people use a small pan with water and salt in it to maintain humidity. This is an alternative to the humidifier and humidity controller. If I were to do this again, I might opt for a cigar storage humidifier as the controller is built into it.  

Keep in mind that it might be easiest and cheaper just to get a small fridge that does not have the defrost cycle. You might not have the same kind of temp control but it would be cheaper and should work just fine. Many people keep it simple and go that route without issues.  Also, since there is not defrost cycle on the modified fridge, there  is frost build up on the cooling plate. I am at over a week of running now and the frost/ice build up is significant. Its not a problem yet but could end being a problem after extended use. I will most definitely shut this refrigerator off and defrost it after the meat is done. The frost build up actually slows the compressors ability to cool the fridge however, the thicker the frost the more stable the temps and humidity. Its kind of a double edge sword that has yet to become an issue. The high humidity increases the frost build up. Time will tell if it will be a problem or not but after over a week of continuous use, its not an issue. I suspect that excessive frost build up would be the case with any refrigerator due to the high humidity that is ideal for dry aging without the drybag method..

Hope that helps. If this continues to work well, I might consider building these for others who are interested.


----------



## bhaycraft

Thanks for getting back to me. I am sure I have the skill to make the changes to the fridge. I am now wondering which is the better way to dry age, in the bag or in a dedicated device with no bag. I still would get a dedicated fridge for the dry aging as our main fridge doesn't have enough space to do bone in ribeyes with 3 children in the house. I now wonder is the bag just as good or not.


----------



## slief

bhaycraft said:


> Thanks for getting back to me. I am sure I have the skill to make the changes to the fridge. I am now wondering which is the better way to dry age, in the bag or in a dedicated device with no bag. I still would get a dedicated fridge for the dry aging as our main fridge doesn't have enough space to do bone in ribeyes with 3 children in the house. I now wonder is the bag just as good or not.


I have only read positive things about the drybag.. Whether or not it's as good as the non drybag aged steaks is subjective. The bag allows moisture out but not in so in theory it should work just as well while protecting the meat from bacteria or contamination.. Of course that is the "theory".  They seem to have a loyal following though.


----------



## bhaycraft

Well how is the dry aging going with the rig ? Has buildup of ice become a problem or any other new problems creep up ? Just curious. Thanks


----------



## slief

bhaycraft said:


> Well how is the dry aging going with the rig ? Has buildup of ice become a problem or any other new problems creep up ? Just curious. Thanks


Everything is going fine. Ice build up has not been a problem to speak of though I haven't opened the fridge in a little over a week. The temp and humidity has be very stable as well. I am planning on cooking the prime rib this Sunday so I will update things Saturday when I pull the meat out to season it.


----------



## slief

Here is the prime rib after 20 days.. Since I have never done this before, I'll reserve judgment (hoping I don't poison the family) until after I cook this thing up tomorrow  at which point I will start another thread for the results..







Kind of scary looking and not for the faint of heart! No mold to speak of. It didn't really smell bad either. It just smelled different if that makes sense.  







Trimmed up and looking much better. Most of the fat was tied on and disposed of when I trimmed it. I might make a run to the meat market to see if I can get some extra fat to put on this thing or above it when I cook it.













Seasoned and back into the fridge wrapped up until tomorrow.


----------



## goodballa

Slief,

Thank you for creating this thread.  I love these types of projects.  I currently have Lonzino dry curing in my fridge using a Ranco Thermostat.  Don't suppose you could give us an update on how your rib roast turned out, how your fridge is working, and if you've done any more drying...

Thanks,

Goodballa


----------



## chef jimmyj

Check out this Video there are 2 parts. These guys use an un-modified dedicated refrigerator with coarse Himalayan Sea Salt. I contacted the company and they verified it. The coated V racks are a custom item as far as I can tell, I have not been able to find one online. I think a basic non-stick rack will work as well. The racks are cheap and so is the salt...JJ



http://www.saltworks.us/shop/product.asp?idProduct=371


----------



## jimf

Question: while searching YouTube, it seems like most people put the meat in their kitchen fridge. Obviously the door is being opened multiple times a day, but this option seems way more cost efficient than having a dedicated fridge. Is it safe to dry age in a everyday kitchen fridge?


----------



## diggingdogfarm

It certainly can be done, but there's a lot of bacteria, molds and such in a refrigerator, so the potential for failure is greater.
A small dedicated fridge can easily be kept fairly clean and sanitized.
We have one here at home.



~Martin


----------



## goodballa

JimmyJ

I have a rack that is exactly like those.  You can find them here:  ***.acehardware.c**/product/index.jsp?productId=1279106&kw=roasting+rack&origkw=roasting+rack&searchId=55555118234 

If you are going to do the sea salt age, make sure to only use a non-reactive container for the salt, i.e. Pyrex.  Which would bring me to wonder what the salt would do to the lifespan of the refrigerators metallic components?  A lot of aluminum in there.  I could see some benefit from lightly salting the exterior of the beef for it's anti-bacterial benefits while the drying process starts, and to aid in getting the outside moisture down quickly, of course not so much as to over salt the meat.  Please take my comments with a grain of salt though, 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





   I've never dry aged beef before, though I think that it may need to be next on my agenda.

Goodballa


----------



## chef jimmyj

JimF said:


> Question: while searching YouTube, it seems like most people put the meat in their kitchen fridge. Obviously the door is being opened multiple times a day, but this option seems way more cost efficient than having a dedicated fridge. Is it safe to dry age in a everyday kitchen fridge?


 I have Dry Aged a 3-4 bone Rib Roast every New Years Day for the last 10 years in my regular Refrigerator. I go any where from 5-7 days without incidence but some cross contamination avoidance steps have to be taken. Here is a link to this years...

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/115671/new-years-day-prime-rib-dry-aged#post_745524


Goodballa said:


> JimmyJ
> 
> I have a rack that is exactly like those.  You can find them here:  ***.acehardware.c**/product/index.jsp?productId=1279106&kw=roasting+rack&origkw=roasting+rack&searchId=55555118234
> 
> If you are going to do the sea salt age, make sure to only use a non-reactive container for the salt, i.e. Pyrex.  Which would bring me to wonder what the salt would do to the lifespan of the refrigerators metallic components?  A lot of aluminum in there.  I could see some benefit from lightly salting the exterior of the beef for it's anti-bacterial benefits while the drying process starts, and to aid in getting the outside moisture down quickly, of course not so much as to over salt the meat.  Please take my comments with a grain of salt though,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never dry aged beef before, though I think that it may need to be next on my agenda.
> 
> Goodballa


 Thanks for the info. I have frequently coated the beef with a moderate coat of Montreal Steak Seasoning and left it for the week. It comes out ready to go in the Oven and very well seasoned, though I must say, reserve the End Cuts for those that appreciate a strong Beefy flavor and are not affected by the higher Sodium content.  I do not want to slight this company but 1 rack and a couple pounds of salt is hardly worth the $50 price they charge for the kit. The refer I plan to use is my daughters all plastic Dorm fridge. In my email from the company they also indicated that the Salt imparts no flavor to the meat and is basically used as a desiccant so I am not sure how much airborne salt there will be to affect metal parts. Depending on the size of the meat and local humidity level, the Salt can be come damp, the company said that baking the salt to dry it is very effective and you are good to go with the next round. This sounds interesting now I just need the Boss 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





   to allocate funds for drying components and Beef...JJ  
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Update: I checked at Acehardware.com, that rack is non-stick but not rubber or plastic coated. I think this will suit and is the right size for use in a 9X13 Glass or Stone Baking Dish. Thanks again.


----------



## goodballa

> Update: I checked at Acehardware.com, that rack is non-stick but not rubber or plastic coated. I think this will suit and is the right size for use in a 9X13 Glass or Stone Baking Dish. Thanks again.


When I watched the YouTube video I got the impression that they didn't purchase the racks like that, but customized them.  I don't know how you would apply it, but here's something:

***.etundra.***/Red_High_Temperature_Food_Grade_Silicone_Caulk-P1573.html?utm_medium=organic&utm_source=google_product&cvsfa=2832&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3336353037

Thanks for the info on the salt, I wasn't sure of the salts corrosion potential, but am glad to hear your thoughts.  As for the salt as a desiccant, wouldn't this only be beneficial in instances where the relative humidity is too high?  My understanding is that as long as your relative humidity is between 75 and 85 percent there should be no need for a desiccant.  Is there any antibacterial benefits of having the salt in there?  I can't help wonder if there is any real need for using salt in dry aging, or if this is more about selling salt???

Sleif, don't supposed you'd like to weigh in on your own thread?

Goodballa


----------



## diggingdogfarm

Since there's a link below the video to a dry aging kit for $50, I think it's safe to say that they're definitely trying to sell something.
"Kit includes adjustable rack, special sea salt, "cliff notes" instructions & full instructions /explanation of the dry aging process."

I've never used salt.


~Martin


----------



## slief

Goodballa said:


> Slief,
> 
> Thank you for creating this thread.  I love these types of projects.  I currently have Lonzino dry curing in my fridge using a Ranco Thermostat.  Don't suppose you could give us an update on how your rib roast turned out, how your fridge is working, and if you've done any more drying...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Goodballa


Goodballa,

Glad you appreciated the thread! The Prime Rib came out great and was a huge hit with everybody. My mom who is a pickey eater absolutely loved it too. Here is a link to the thread on it.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/...of-pics-qview-i-hope-i-dont-poison-the-family

I have yet to do more dry aging with it but have used it a couple times to store some ribs and tri tip that was marinating for a smoke. I will certainly be dry aging again with it in the near future but the next plan is to make some Lox so that will be the next major use of this fridge. Good thing is that since it's a fridge, it can serve multiple purposes besides just dry aging.   

One thing I was considering was to get some thin salt slabs and line the inside walls with the slabs. Not sure its needed but I can never leave "well enough alone".


----------



## chef jimmyj

DiggingDogFarm said:


> Since there's a link below the video to a dry aging kit for $50, I think it's safe to say that they're definitely trying to sell something.
> "Kit includes adjustable rack, special sea salt, "cliff notes" instructions & full instructions /explanation of the dry aging process."
> I've never used salt.
> ~Martin


The guys selling the kit are in the salt business so they are definately pushing their product. How I got to them was I first watched a video on Drybag Aging then saw the videos from Golbsalt.com and the $50 kit. I then watched the Primehouse video which was along the same line just a much larger scale and based on Divid Burke's huge success figured there must be something to using Salt in the Dry Aging process.

 Here is a link to the video from David Burke's Primehouse. Notice the Wall of Himalayan Salt blocks, the Chef explains that refers are typically 34-40*F and 90% Humidity, he implies that the Salt reduces that humidity to the 60% they use for Aging. I'm not sure I understand how the salt seasons the meat, as he said, the makers of the Dry Aging Kit said it imparts no flavor.


----------



## diggingdogfarm

I've been dry aging beef close to 30 years and in my experience the humidity in a refrigerator is quite low 35% to 45%. The compressor pulls moisture out of the air.
I have to up the humidity and take other precautions so the meat doesn't dry too fast.
In their set-up, which is much different than a small home set-up, I'm guessing that the humidity is high in their walk-in because there are so many uncovered pieces of meat.
Salt does pull moisture out of the air, so, as he says, it helps regulate the humidity, but seasoning the meat? C'mon!
It's certainly not needed, and could be detrimental, in the average home beef dry aging chamber.



~Martin


----------



## i is a moose

Agreed, not to mention that you'll be leaving exposed beaf fat out to soak up whatever fridge funk permeates a kitchen fridge.

I've dry-aged smaller cuts in my kitchen fridge but because of the activity of it, I limit it to no more than a week.


DiggingDogFarm said:


> It certainly can be done, but there's a lot of bacteria, molds and such in a refrigerator, so the potential for failure is greater.
> A small dedicated fridge can easily be kept fairly clean and sanitized.
> We have one here at home.
> ~Martin


----------



## diggingdogfarm

I is a moose said:


> Agreed, not to mention that you'll be leaving exposed beaf fat out to soak up whatever fridge funk permeates a kitchen fridge.



So true!!!



~Martin


----------



## jimf

Am I reading all this correctly; if you are dry aging a large cut of beef for a long period of time (a week +), a humidity and temperature environment is best.   If you are dry aging single cuts of steaks for 3 days, the standard kitchen refrigerator is fine, as long as the temp is between 35-37 degrees, the meat is elevated for airflow, and the dressing (paper towels) are changed daily.

Is this correct?


----------



## chef jimmyj

JimF said:


> Am I reading all this correctly; if you are dry aging a large cut of beef for a long period of time (a week +), a humidity and temperature environment is best.   If you are dry aging single cuts of steaks for 3 days, the standard kitchen refrigerator is fine, as long as the temp is between 35-37 degrees, the meat is elevated for airflow, and the dressing (paper towels) are changed daily.
> 
> Is this correct?


 I have done 9-15lb hunks of Beef for 5-7 days in my home, unmodified Refer bottom shelf and protected from cross contamination with Cheese Cloth or Paper Towel, for many years and always get great results.  I would like to try 30 days but think a controlled environment would be best for a long period. I have yet to try Steaks, they seem to go from Freezer/Store to Dinner with little planning, but think 3 days would benefit them as well...JJ


----------



## i is a moose

I think the biggest advantage to a dedicated meat aging unit is the fact that you won't have a dinosaur-sieze huck o' cow cramping your style in your kitchen fridge for the 21-50 days that many meats can be aged for.

Everything else is a matter of preference. This thread shows a really tip-top build with alot of thought in it, but I know folks who've gotten away with 15 year old garage fridges and have done the task just fine.

I really commend the OP here, because he put alot of effort and thought into something that I have no doubt will work far better than running a straight fridge. (Please note that I'm not saying a kitchen fridge, or your garage fridge won't work, banish the thought! This particular build just covers alot more variables.)


----------



## go lb salt

Gentlemen,

We're glad you found our video!  While we do offer our DIY Dry Aged Beef Kits, we most definitely ARE NOT pushing them.  We like dry aged beef as much as the next guy.  Probably more in many cases.  We have made a significant study of the process, the affects of the various inputs to the process and the change in final results as those inputs are modified.  

The video began as a project in 'proof of concept' of what we had done for Mr. Burke in his commercial cooler, but on a residential scale.  We knew the process worked quite effectively in his environment and wanted to see if similar results could be achieved at home.  Mr. Burke is a commercial client of the importer of the salt we use.

As some of you have already noted, aging a full sub-primal really requires a dedicated fridge.  The off-gassing of other organic materials in your regular fridge is not good for the aging process. 

As for the salt adding any flavor or affecting the flavor, there is no empirical evidence to support this conclusion.  There is, as mentioned in the video, a layer of micro-aerosolized salt on the surface of the beef.  This layer of salt only prevents the growth of bacteria...nothing more, nothing less.

As an aside, we find the use of cheese cloth in dry aging a distasteful and unsanitary practice.  Cheese cloth is for cheese.  If it's really the right tool for the application, then you should be able to purchase 'beef cloth' from your local butcher.  

As for those who believe that moldy tasting dry aged beef is good tasting dry aged beef, we disagree there too.  If you want to taste moldy, stick with blue cheese, but don't try to duplicate that with dry aged beef.

Additionally, the one benefit of salt over any other process is the amount of moisture that can be drawn out of the beef in a relatively short period of time.  The Australian's lead the world when it comes to studying the dry aging process.  They have documented conclusively that all enzymatic breakdown ceases at 34 days.  Part of the dry aging process is for the benefit of tenderizing your beef, the rest is to draw out moisture for the purpose of intensifying the 'beefy' flavor.  Using a sea salt assisted aging method allows for 30% - 35% moisture loss in that 34 day aging period.  Approximately 1% moisture loss per day.  A typical dry aging process without the salt assist would require 75-90 days to get the same moisture loss.  Why wait that long if the same thing can be accomplished in 34 days?

The only reason beef is aged longer than 34 days at white linen steak houses is to further reduce moisture content and intensify flavor more.  Even David Burke ages longer than 34 days with his salt assist, but he maintains a higher humidity in his cooler.  We typically maintain 15%-35% RH in our fridge depending on what time of year it is.

As for the rubber coating on our aging racks, it is a food grade silicon that we sprayed on to our racks as a custom modification.  We were concerned about reactivity of the salt with the rack.  However, since then, we have begun acquiring stainless steel racks for our kits that will offer years of use with minimal oxidation.  As for your fridge and reactivity with the aluminum, most residential fridges come with completely painted interiors.  Oxidation shouldn't be a problem there either.

For a full read on our experiences and findings with our dry aged beef studies, you can feel free to check out our blog - it's free of charge.  We have written a number of posts on dry aging beef.  We also have some commentary on making your own bacon as well.


----------



## supercenterchef

Great thread with lots of interesting input/ideas...props to the OP for all his hard work and inventiveness!

I recently did a similar mod, but used a chest freezer with what is, essentially, the Ranco unit he mentions--I'm loving it...also the drain hole makes the need for drilling a thing of the past!


----------



## slief

SupercenterChef said:


> Great thread with lots of interesting input/ideas...props to the OP for all his hard work and inventiveness!
> I recently did a similar mod, but used a chest freezer with what is, essentially, the Ranco unit he mentions--I'm loving it...also the drain hole makes the need for drilling a thing of the past!



Thanks for the feedback! I'm surprised to see this thread has taken a life of its own. Glad it was helpful to you as well as others. I've Actually been thinking about lining the sides of my fridge with slab salt. After seeing input & the video from Golbsalt, I will be giving some more consideration to that idea.


----------



## supercenterchef

Speaking of...humidity can be a problem with the chest freezer (as you might imagine)--I'll be adding a Kosher tray to my next batch!


----------



## go lb salt

slief said:


> Thanks for the feedback! I'm surprised to see this thread has taken a life of its own. Glad it was helpful to you as well as others. I've Actually been thinking about lining the sides of my fridge with slab salt. After seeing input & the video from Golbsalt, I will be giving some more consideration to that idea.


Unless you have a large commercial walk in cooler, we DO NOT recommend this.  The amount of salt in the fridge would be WAY too much and the meat would be desiccated at a far faster rate than the enzymatic breakdown would occur.  We have and sell slabs too, but they are for a different purpose.  That's why we use only 2 lbs. of specially milled salt in our kit.  That quantity is suitable for sub-primals that weigh between 8-18 lbs.  NYS sub-primals usually weigh in about 8 lbs. and do incredibly well with just 2 lbs of salt for 34 days.  Our last result was OUTSTANDING and I don't really care for NYS - too tasteless and sawdust-y in texture for me.  Dry aging changed that POV!


----------



## flyhigh123

Question:

I once aged a CHOICE prime rib roast. It was done for about 25 days in my fridge. I didn't notice too much of the enzyme's making the meet even more tender.

I was told that since it was choice, it can only get so tender and that dry aging  CHOICE doesn't make as much of a difference as PRIME grade. That if I want to dry age, i should go PRIME from the start.

Is this true? What have your experiences been with CHOICE?


----------



## go lb salt

Our experience with CHOICE has been very hit and miss.  You must get your beef directly from a butcher before it has spent any time wet aging.  If it's been wet aged for more than 5 days or so, it will be tough to get a finished product that gives what you are looking for!

That pretty much rules out Costco, Sam's and any grocery store unless you know what days they get their sub-primals shipped in and how long between packaging at the meat packer and delivery to the store.


----------



## chef jimmyj

This has been discussed off and on before. If you go to Walmart or other Grocery Store and pick-up a hunk of Rib Roast...You can stick it in your refer for 5 days and it will intensify in flavor from some level of dehydration. It will taste Beefier... But...Since virtually all Grocery Chains buy Beef from National Packers and all that meat comes in Subprimals, Rib, Short-loin, Sirloin, Chuck, Etc., that has been Wet Aged in Vac-Packs, you can expect very little in terms of additional Enzymatic action. If you can find a local old style Butcher that either Slaughters and Hangs Beef on site or purchases Sides or Quarters that have not been vac-packed then that meat can be Dry-Aged with methods described above with excellent results. I have been doing this for the last 20 years, I found a Butcher that slaughters on site. He Hangs the Sides at 38* and about 70-80%RH and Dry Ages for a minimum of 14 days before Custom Cutting and distribution to area restaurants and his Retail Store Front. This year after learning about the benefit of using Himalayan Rock Salt I plan to purchase a whole Beef Rib section on or about Dec 1 for consumption on our annual New Years Day celebration. So between the 14 days the butcher puts on the Beef and the 30 additional days I will add, I expect a quite tender and intensely beef flavored roast.

For other members benefit and in reference to this comment...

"As an aside, we find the use of cheese cloth in dry aging a distasteful and unsanitary practice. Cheese cloth is for cheese. If it's really the right tool for the application, then you should be able to purchase 'beef cloth' from your local butcher."

The use of Cheese Cloth has much less to do with the aging/dehydrating the Beef as it does with providing a BARRIER to the cross-contamination of other items that may accidentally contact the meat in a Non-Dedicated Home Refrigerator, like the type the average person who can't afford a dedicated refer but still wishes to Home Age a piece of Beef for a few days once a year might have...If Cheese Cloth was so Unsanitary it would not be used in the Cheese industry either!   

Salt is not my business...BUT...Sanitation and Safety is!...A piece of beef that is wrapped in a Fresh piece of Cheese Cloth or Paper Towels, every couple of days, is by far much Safer than raw Exposed Meat in the home refrigerator...JJ


----------



## flyhigh123

Go Lb Salt said:


> Our experience with CHOICE has been very hit and miss.  You must get your beef directly from a butcher before it has spent any time wet aging.  If it's been wet aged for more than 5 days or so, it will be tough to get a finished product that gives what you are looking for!
> 
> That pretty much rules out Costco, Sam's and any grocery store unless you know what days they get their sub-primals shipped in and how long between packaging at the meat packer and delivery to the store.


Why does the wet age affect it? For example, I wen to eat at Abe and Louie's in Boston ( which is my favorite steakhouse in the USA currently, i'm from LA) and they say they wet age 20 days and also dry age another 30 or something like that.


----------



## supercenterchef

This is a great thread, full of good info, and everyone is being nice :)

This topic, however, has stirred some controversy in the past...ya'll might want to check out these posts for an interesting take from bbally:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/96453/anyone-dry-age-beef

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/53179/dry-aged-beef/20

He's a respected otbs member and appears to have been dry aging beef for more than 25 years.

His assertion is that you can't dry age beef at home and he makes some good points.

I haven't seen him bust into the fray in the last several dry age discussions, but bbally--if you're out there and I misstate your view, feel free to step in!

He says that meat that has been process (cryovac, etc) has been treated/sterilized/whatnot thus making it impossible for meat of this type to undergo the proper enzymatic and chemical changes inherent to true dry aging.

I have been 'dry aging' (though bbally is saying that's the wrong term) for several years--and it tastes GOOD

In the end, however, I think bbally knows more about this than I do...I believe what I'm tasting is prolly, primarily a product of dehydration rather than what has traditionally been referred to as dry aging.

I don't use the dry age bags, after reading up on them, they don't seem worth the expense for a guy like me with a dedicated fridge, etc...

What I would like to see...is for bbally to invent a process by which people like me can perform true dry aging from previously cryovac'd meat...maybe a wash or something to encourage proper bac-t action--you out there bbally?  Will little guys like me ever see anything like this?  Is it even possible?

btw...thanks for the info JJ...the need for excellent Sanitation and Safety cannot be overstated!!


----------



## chef jimmyj

Unfortunately BBally is no longer part of the SMF Family and has moved on to other adventures. Chef, from my extensive research, what Mr. Bally has stated is true. The Cryovac, Wet Aged Box Beef that most grocery and club stores get have done all the Enzymatic aging they are going to do but have yet to gain the Beefy Intensity that Only time dehydating can give. Is picking up a Rib Roast at Sam's and sticking it in your modified freezer Dry Aging?...NO...But that meat will still benefit some from the intensifying of flavor as moisture evaporates. That being said if you wish to have the True Dry Age experience find a Slaughter House or Butcher that processes Hanging Beef and do your thing...JJ


----------



## diggingdogfarm

Chef JimmyJ said:


> That being said if you wish to have the True Dry Age experience find a Slaughter House or Butcher that processes Hanging Beef and do your thing...JJ



Exactly!

I've been dry aging beef for 30+ years and have never aged cryovaced stuff.


~Martin


----------



## supercenterchef

I almost sent a PM to Martin about this, but as it's kinda related to the thread, and I'm sure others may have the same problem...I thought I'd post it here...

"I've been dry aging beef for 30+ years and have never aged cryovaced stuff."

I've seen statements like that from others...and I just gotta ask--where are you getting your meat?  I've looked around and can't seem to find a non-cryovaced source.  I've checked with a packing house, expensive meat markets...and they all get their meat as cryovac.  Any helpful tips for my search would be welcome!


----------



## go lb salt

> The use of Cheese Cloth has much less to do with the aging/dehydrating the Beef as it does with providing a BARRIER to the cross-contamination of other items that may accidentally contact the meat in a Non-Dedicated Home Refrigerator, like the type the average person who can't afford a dedicated refer but still wishes to Home Age a piece of Beef for a few days once a year might have...If Cheese Cloth was so Unsanitary it would not be used in the Cheese industry either!
> 
> Salt is not my business...BUT...Sanitation and Safety is!...A piece of beef that is wrapped in a Fresh piece of Cheese Cloth or Paper Towels, every couple of days, is by far much Safer than raw Exposed Meat in the home refrigerator...JJ


JJ, we appreciate your concerns!  For you and all of our fellow readers, please be assured....sanitation and safety are as much a part of our business as salt is.  Sanitation and safety are tantamount to producing a 'food safe' product for consumption.  With that in mind, we completely agree that the cheese cloth does provide a barrier against cross-contamination from other foods than using nothing at all.  However, as we say around our kitchen...'that's not the bar'.  What we seek to provide is 'best practice' in any given circumstance.  

Therefore, being even handed about the entire process requires acknowledging that the same cheese cloth barrier can also be responsible for HARBORING other equally problematic bacteria.  Proof of this is found in the realization that in much more humid environments changing the cheese cloth even every couple of days may still not be sufficient.  Rot & funk are also a HUGE risk - cheese cloth may work, but only if ALL necessary guidelines are met to ensure proper quality control.

As individuals, we respect each person's right of choice.  As a commercial entity, we must also acknowledge another concern... the significant risk of professional liability.  Because of that additional concern, we cannot recommend a process to home chef's that is known to present the distinct possibility of food borne illness even when approached with extreme caution.  Butcher's and other meat packing & processing facilities are NOT allowed to keep ANYTHING other than meat in their aging coolers for a reason - the risk of cross-contamination is real!  Kitchen, refrigerator and personal cleanliness must all meet very stringent requirements to avoid introducing any bacteria that might make the entire process a bust.

As for the cheese cloth working for cheese, that is also true - for a very specific reason.  Cheese contains enough salt that the growth of unwanted bacteria is prevented.  Molds will still grow, but other bacteria will not.  It's this same principle that makes the salt assisted dry aging process so desirable.  The micro-aerosolization of the salt which adheres to the surface of the meat is a far more effective (and safe) method of preventing unwanted food borne bacteria.


----------



## pops6927

Golb.Salt,  (http://www.golbsalt.com/

Thank you so much for joining the forum!  If possible, please go to Roll Call and introduce yourself so we may welcome you properly!  A PM has been also sent to you too!  And, please include your location in your profile!  Thank you again!


----------



## diggingdogfarm

Is go lb. salt a site sponsor?


~Martin


----------



## pool-cue

Hi guys, first post.  I am a meat lover also a cigar lover, which these two goes hand in hand.

Anyway I just got a suggestion on keeping the humidity regulated.  I see that someone had mentioned using a cigar oasis in their fridge for extra humidity, I used that as well with only okay result at first but great after I solve my problem.  The reason being, the alarm goes off and stop the unit when the extreme humidity is reached either during the running cycle(too low RH), or anti frost cycle(too high RH).  To combat this issue I put in the fridge a pound of silica beads in each shelf of the fridge. The silica beads that I use are the once for cat litter, the non scented kind.  This silica beads are also used in my walkin humidor so I know they help regulate the RH.  

Majority of the beads from cat litter are set to be RH between 50 to 70.  That means that once is below the RH, it will release humidity to the air, once rh is too much it will absorb it.

Also the cigar oasis also helps the air flow in the fridge.  

If a cigar power humidifier is out of the question, I would like to suggest using humi gel or it's replacement.  These are just beads that absorb hundred times their weight in water, few example of these are floral gel, how to make fake snow stuff with water from hobby store, or even those kids toys that increase in size after it's submerge in water for couple of days(wouldn't use this unless you have to, as it takes too long to absorb and release the moisture), or in a pinch these gel are even in diaper, just got to take the diaper apart to find them.

Hope some of these idea make sense.

PC


----------



## supercenterchef

great info about cat litter...didn't know that!!


----------



## bbally

SupercenterChef said:


> This is a great thread, full of good info, and everyone is being nice :)
> This topic, however, has stirred some controversy in the past...ya'll might want to check out these posts for an interesting take from bbally:
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/96453/anyone-dry-age-beef
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/53179/dry-aged-beef/20
> He's a respected otbs member and appears to have been dry aging beef for more than 25 years.
> His assertion is that you can't dry age beef at home and he makes some good points.
> I haven't seen him bust into the fray in the last several dry age discussions, but bbally--if you're out there and I misstate your view, feel free to step in!
> He says that meat that has been process (cryovac, etc) has been treated/sterilized/whatnot thus making it impossible for meat of this type to undergo the proper enzymatic and chemical changes inherent to true dry aging.
> I have been 'dry aging' (though bbally is saying that's the wrong term) for several years--and it tastes GOOD
> In the end, however, I think bbally knows more about this than I do...I believe what I'm tasting is prolly, primarily a product of dehydration rather than what has traditionally been referred to as dry aging.
> I don't use the dry age bags, after reading up on them, they don't seem worth the expense for a guy like me with a dedicated fridge, etc...
> What I would like to see...is for bbally to invent a process by which people like me can perform true dry aging from previously cryovac'd meat...maybe a wash or something to encourage proper bac-t action--you out there bbally?  Will little guys like me ever see anything like this?  Is it even possible?
> 
> btw...thanks for the info JJ...the need for excellent Sanitation and Safety cannot be overstated!!




You have stated it correctly. Cannot dry age at home. You can change beef flavor by dehydrating to concentrate favors and having cooking create a more complete Maillard reaction. 

But to dry age you need a beef that has not been in a commercial packing house. I raise my own.  

And you have to be willing to throw meat out. Not all of it comes through dry aging fit for consumption. That is why you find few butcher shops or cutters set up to do it. 

Only top two grades will dry age correctly.  Marble is required. Fat protects meat from spoiling.


----------



## bbally

SupercenterChef said:


> I've seen statements like that from others...and I just gotta ask--where are you getting your meat?  I've looked around and can't seem to find a non-cryovaced source.  I've checked with a packing house, expensive meat markets...and they all get their meat as cryovac.  Any helpful tips for my search would be welcome!



I raise mine. Also purchase a lot of 4 H steers in August.  Most ranches have butcher steers available. 

We also have a couple buffalo ranches here.  Have to watch for marbling level to dry age buffalo.


----------



## mart242

Ended up on this thread while googling for potential issues with a ranco on a frost-free fridge since I'm having issues getting my new fridge to less than 38F even with the compressor running all the time (the freezer part gets REALLY cold though, ~-13F.  Anyways, that's not the reason I was posting in this thread:

You can now get the "vacmouse" from the drybag company which allows you to seal the bags with a foodsaver type sealer and it works quite well.  I've bagged two subprimals last night:













IMG-20130429-00201.jpg



__ mart242
__ Apr 30, 2013








slief said:


> For the drybag steak method you would be just as well off by putting them in your regular refrigerator and not hassle with the route that I went. The drybag method does not require high humidity or lots of air circulation. It also keeps the meat safe from cross contamination. That said, for the drybag method, any fridge will do but you will need a special vacuum sealer to do it right and that sealer is sold by the drybag company. I have read about people having limited success sealing those bags with a Food Saver type sealer but its a pain to do and really best done with the appropriate sealer.


----------



## mr t 59874

I am fortunate to have a meat processor near in which my fresh beef is purchased for dry aging.  Never tried dry aging buffalo although we do love it and treat ourselves to a roast once a year. My neighbor raises them for hunting on his ranch.

Tom


----------



## chris shannon

I see all these bacteria concerns, just add a UV Led light strip or 2. All you need is a 12v power supply. Where do I get a Humidity controller? What brand did you use?


----------



## diggingdogfarm

UV light promotes rancidity.



~Martin


----------



## webowabo

Wow.. was thinking about dry aging one of my try tips for s and giggles to see what the deal is... but.. I dont know really..this thread went in 8 directions that brought me a head ache and possibly a buzz cause I read every word.. so.. 

Should I throw a tri tip wrapped in some paper towles on the bottom of my "now" dedicated meat fridge since I don't t drink beer..... and let it sit for three weeks or just smoke the darn thing tomorrow and be done with with it ??


----------



## supercenterchef

Smoke it tomorrow...or today :D


----------



## webowabo

SupercenterChef said:


> Smoke it tomorrow...or today :D


Its thawing out now.. ;) will throw it in the UDS tomorrow before football starts! ;)


----------



## butcherblock

This looks really good. Only thing i would add is about 2 lbs of seasalt under the beef. Bacteria issues will be gone and drying will be much more consistent.


----------



## ryan0914

I know this is an old thread but some people might be interested in this. It's called the meat locker and the company is up on kick starter. It's a dedicated meat aging refrigerator with censors that connect to your mobile device. We just bought a house so it's going into the kitchen were going to be renovating. Anyway here's the link


----------



## mikeyanxu

Go Lb Salt said:


> Gentlemen,
> .......
> Additionally, the one benefit of salt over any other process is the amount of moisture that can be drawn out of the beef in a relatively short period of time.  The Australian's lead the world when it comes to studying the dry aging process.  They have documented conclusively that all enzymatic breakdown ceases at *34 days*.  Part of the dry aging process is for the benefit of tenderizing your beef, the rest is to draw out moisture for the purpose of intensifying the 'beefy' flavor.  Using a sea salt assisted aging method allows for 30% - 35% moisture loss in that 34 day aging period.  Approximately 1% moisture loss per day.  A typical dry aging process without the salt assist would require 75-90 days to get the same moisture loss.  Why wait that long if the same thing can be accomplished in 34 days?
> 
> ...................


So, I got my beef from the butcher who had already hung the carcass 2 weeks before cut. I got big brime ribe roast cut with backbone and t bone roast with back bone. I hung them in the dedicated fridge which is kept at 37F. To do a 34 days dry age, I only need to hung them additional  34-14 = 20 days, correct? Thanks.


----------



## smokeywater

I fond to be the best guide for aging meat.

http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/03/the-food-lab-complete-guide-to-dry-aging-beef-at-home.html


----------



## Rings Я Us

Bump


----------

