# Trends and advertising claims don’t mean countertop cookers are safe for home canning.



## daveomak.fs (Jun 21, 2019)

*Trends and advertising claims don’t mean countertop cookers are safe*
By Coral Beach on May 20, 2019


If you’re considering picking up some of those electric pressure cookers at early summer garage sales thinking they’d be a handy, easy way to put up small batches of fresh produce for use next winter, think again.

It’s not the pre-owned status that should give you pause for thought, though. Even if you’re planning on buying a new countertop pressure cooker for a peck of backyard green beans, researchers and public health officials say the risk is too high.

Warnings about the cookers and the associated danger of botulism poisoning began a few years ago, almost as soon as various brands including Instant Pot and Power Pressure Cooker XL hit store shelves and the TV infomercial circuit. The warnings have continued, with another earlier this year from the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Now, researchers at the Utah State University Extension service have released preliminary data showing the electric pressure cookers do not always reach high enough temperatures for the proper amount of time to safely can low-acid foods including vegetables, beans, meats, poultry, fish and soups.

The scientists in Utah focused on the use of such cookers at altitudes across their state, according to comments from Cathy Merrill, USU Extension faculty member and project lead on the research project. 

“We knew from previous USU Extension research that altitude affects temperatures in electric pressure cookers, and we’ve heard rumors of community groups having classes about pressure canning in ‘smart cookers,’ so we knew it was time to do some research,” Merrill said in a news release about the project. 

“The U.S. Department of Agriculture has recommended against electric pressure cookers being used for canning, and now we have our own data showing that they just don’t hit the high temperature needed for canning safely at our altitudes.”

Numerous Extension offices across the country have weighed in on the topic, including Penn State’s service less than a year ago, just as people were preparing to preserve the flavors of summer. 

As in materials from other universities and public health officials at state and federal levels, the Penn State Extension Service warning stressed that a number of factors are involved in safe home canning. There hasn’t been any research by the USDA or a university to show that these electric multi-cookers can safely process low-acid food, according to the Penn State service.

“A common misconception about home canning is that the goal is to get the jar to seal. While having a strong seal is important, the most critical factor is whether the food inside the jar is safe to consume,” according to information from Penn State. “When food is heated inside the jar during the canning process, factors such as the density of the food, size of the food pieces, and size of the jar are figured into the process calculation. 

“The entire thermal process including the heat-up to cool-down steps contribute to the destruction of harmful microorganisms. Electric multi-cookers tend to heat up and cool down quickly. Since heat transfer has not been specifically studied in this environment with this type of appliance, it is not recommended to use the canning feature of electric multi-cookers.”

Some manufacturers of electric multi-cooker appliances have been including directions for home canning with their products since they began marketing them, according to the National Center for Home Food Preservation. The companies have not done process development work to document temperatures throughout the units remain at a given pressure and throughout the whole process time, according to the Center. 

The Center was established with funding from the Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture (CSREES-USDA) to address food safety concerns for those who practice and teach home food preservation and processing methods.

“We do not know if proper thermal process development work has been done in order to justify the canning advice that is distributed with these pressure multi-cooker appliances. What we do know is that our canning processes are not recommended for use in electric pressure multi-cookers at this time,” according to the center.

The center does have instructions for the public on proper canning techniques using stove-top pressure cookers, but those instructions to not apply to electric multi-cooker appliances. Even if such cookers have buttons or settings for “canning” or “steam canning” the devices should not be used for such purposes.

“Bacteria are not killed in the food only during the process time; the time it takes the canner to come up to pressure, the process time, and the cool-down time all matter,” according to the center.

Some of the other “major reasons” the center cannot recommend using electric multi-cookers for pressure canning are:


Thermal process canning work relates the temperatures in the jars to the temperature inside the canner throughout the processing. No USDA thermal process work has been done with jars inside an electric pressure cooker, tracking the actual temperatures inside the jars throughout the process. It is ultimately the temperature and heat distribution inside the jars that matters for the destruction of microorganism in the food product. The position of jars in the canner and flow of steam around them also impacts the temperature in the jars. For example, there would be expected differences in jars piled together on their sides from those standing upright on the canner base.
One manufacturer says its cooker reaches the pressure required for canning, but that alone does not prove the food in the jars is heated throughout at the same rate. . . Just producing an interior pressure is not sufficient data for canning recommendations. For example, if air is mixed in the steam, the temperature is lower than the same pressure of pure steam. That’s why a proper venting process is so important in pressure canning — to obtain a pure steam environment inside the canner. Also, one has to know how to make adjustments in pressure readings at higher altitudes. The same pressure and process time combination cannot be used at all altitudes.
In order to ensure the safety of the final product, the temperature in the canner must stay at minimum throughout the process time. Do power surges or drops with an electric canner cause the temperature to drop too low? How will you the user know if that happens with your cooker?
One of the big concerns is that the USDA low-acid pressure process times rely on a combination of heat from the time the canner is coming to pressure, during the actual process time, and then during the early stages of cooling the canner and jars. Even after the heat is turned off under the canner, at the end of the recommended process time, the food remains at high enough temperatures for another period of time that can still contribute to killing of bacteria. This retained heat while the canner has to cool naturally to zero pounds pressure before opening is used to advantage in calculating the total sterilizing value of the process to preserve some food quality. If anything is done to shorten the cooling period, including using a very small cooker, then the food could cool down more quickly, and be under-processed. That is why we recommend using only pressure cookers that hold four or more quart-size jars. Bacteria are not killed in the food only during the process time; the time it takes the canner to come up to pressure, the process time, and the cool-down time all matter.
Please note, the center’s information about electric multi-purpose cookers includes the following disclaimer:

This statement about electric cookers does NOT include the Ball Automatic Home Canner for acid foods only, which is electric, but (1) is not a “multi-cooker”, but a dedicated canner, (2) comes with its own instructions and pre-set canning options for specific food preparations, and (3) has had proper thermal process development done to support the recommendations with it. Jarden Home Brands also sells an electric boiling water canner, but it is not a pressurized appliance and for canning purposes operates similar to a traditional boiling water canner. Directions from the manufacturer for this Ball canner, as well as for the Weck non-pressurized electric boiling water canners, should be followed to get them assembled and for managing temperature settings to achieve a boiling process.

*Information about botulism poisoning*
While a variety of illnesses can result from eating under-processed canned food, one of the most dangerous is botulism poisoning. Untreated, botulism can quickly paralyze the muscles needed for breathing, resulting in sudden death.

“In foodborne botulism, symptoms generally begin 18 to 36 hours after eating a contaminated food. However, symptoms can begin as soon as 6 hours after or up to 10 days later,” according to the CDC website.

The symptoms of botulism may include some of all of the following: double vision, blurred vision, drooping eyelids, slurred speech, difficulty swallowing, difficulty breathing, a thick-feeling tongue, dry mouth, and muscle weakness. People with botulism may not show all of these symptoms at once.

These symptoms all result from muscle paralysis caused by the toxin. If untreated, the disease may progress and symptoms may worsen to cause paralysis of certain muscles, including those used in breathing and those in the arms, legs, and the body from the neck to the pelvis area, also called the torso.

*(To sign up for a free subscription to Food Safety News, **click here**.)*


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## dward51 (Jun 21, 2019)

I have wondered about these electric pressure "cookers" for a while (with some skepticism)

We have had an old school manual pressure cooker for decades.  It work great and although I don't can, my mom and grandmother did.  I do remember we always had to start the time after the cooker came up to pressure, not when it was sealed up. 

The thing I wondered about is how these new electric cookers seem to have shorter cook times on food in general than I recall in our manual pressure cooker.  I would think food cooked at x pounds pressure for x time would be the same in each.  Either the electric is at a higher pressure (unlikely) or something is amiss. I don't have a Insta-Pot cooker, but I've watched a number of youtube videos and thought about one, but came to the conclusion it would be a redundant device for us.  I also did not understand how a chicken in a Ninja Foodi cooked faster than a chicken in my manual pressure cooker.

The concerns in the article above seem to be consistent with my thinking about the published cook times for the new electric pressure cookers.  Apparently not all things are equal in the world of pressure cooking and canning.


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## daveomak.fs (Jun 22, 2019)

I've read a few articles from the "USDA" type folks...  Pressure canning takes into account the diameter of the jars and food within those jars, when times are computed...  In a pressure canner, heat up, cook and cool down times are computed into the "canning time" to produce a food safe product...  
Seems thermal mass is a BIG deal when pressure canning and a lot of scientific measurements were involved to get to a safe product...
dward, like you I time my pressure canning from when the air has been expelled from the canner and the jars inside, by noting "clear" and "steam" escaping has all evolved into the "steam" stream...  That may take 10 or 15 minutes before I'm set to start the time...


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## bdskelly (Jun 22, 2019)

Excellent article brother Dave.  I’ve been thinking about one of these. Clearly I should think longer . B


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## johnmeyer (Jun 22, 2019)

Once again, I take the contrarian view on this topic, which has been posted before.

The USDA quotes are full of scientific lapses. Specifically:

1. They claim that traditional pressure cookers keep foods at higher temperature longer (i.e., they don't cool down as fast as an electric multi-cooker). However, this is terrible science because there is a HUGE variation in the temperature and pressure characteristics of different models of _*stovetop *_pressure cookers. They are NOT all alike and some of them cool down really fast.

How do I know?

Twenty years ago, before I bought my current pressure cooker (which replaced my grandmother's aluminum pressure cooker), I read dozens of reviews.  Unlike the USDA article, these reviewers actually published the pressures and temperatures reached with each cooker, and provided specific details on how long temperature and pressure was retained.

There was a huge difference between models.

So, there is absolutely NO guarantee that the pressure cooker you own is getting to 15 psi, or that its gasket will retain pressure for any specific length of time, even if you own a stove-top pressure cooker.

Where are the warnings about these devices??

2. There is no published USDA specification for how long a pressure cooker must maintain temperature, or how fast it can be allowed to drop from maximum temperature, yet this report constantly denigrates the electric pressure cooker because it cools down faster. Because of this, to single out one class of pressure cooker for not maintaining temperature after heat is removed, when there is no specification, is completely incompetent.

It is also a little scary if the safety of canning with a traditional pressure cooker is based on its unpublished, untested, and unwarranted ability to maintain temperature for some unspecified period of time.

3. The report keeps talking about doing the tests at "altitude." However, they once again fail to show any competence in their report. First of all, they never specify _what _altitude. Was this done at 4,226 feet (Salt Lake City altitude)? Was this done at 8,000 feet? 15,000 feet? More important, they never state whether there is also a problem at, or near, sea level.

Even if the report somehow has some scientific credibility (which it doesn't), should it only be a warning for those using these devices above a specific elevation?

4. This report is published _without even one indication that any problem actually exists._ Were they able to actually create botulism in an electric cooker?? Is there any evidence that anyone has had a problem? I assume that these people know exactly how to produce botulism, and how to test for its presence. Did they actually ever see the presence of botulism when following standard canning procedures?

Sorry, but as a scientist and engineer, I am offended by the scientific incompetence exhibited by this report.


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## bdskelly (Jun 22, 2019)

Had no idea you were a scientist John.  See? I learn something everyday on this site. All good points by the way. B


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## johnmeyer (Jun 22, 2019)

bdskelly said:


> Had no idea you were a scientist John.


I'm an electrical engineer. Engineering is the application of science, and you have to first study and master science before you can design anything. Technically, I'm not a scientist because I don't try to discover anything, but I have to apply and follow scientific principles in order to build something that will work.


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## bdskelly (Jun 22, 2019)

johnmeyer said:


> I'm an electrical engineer. Engineering is the application of science, and you have to first study and master science before you can design anything. Technically, I'm not a scientist because I don't try to discover anything, but I have to apply and follow scientific principles in order to build something that will work.


Very impressive my friend. You’d laugh if I told you how I make a living.  Enjoy your weekend John! 
Ever seen the movie Tommy Boy with Chris Farley ?  That’s me. B


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## foamheart (Jun 22, 2019)

bdskelly said:


> Very impressive my friend. You’d laugh if I told you how I make a living.  Enjoy your weekend John!
> Ever seen the movie Tommy Boy with Chris Farley ?  That’s me. B



I think more a  Joseph L. Hudson. A mover, a shaker and innovator.


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## bdskelly (Jun 22, 2019)

foamheart said:


> I think more a  Joseph Hudson. A mover and a shaker.


You’re blowing the time out whistle?  My point was... isn’t it remarkable how we all make a living? Scientists, oil field supply, new parts for used cars...
This being said. You nor I have an Instapot.  Perhaps I should send you one come your birthday soon.  Me thinks you might use it as a chamber pot!


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## dward51 (Jun 22, 2019)

One thing I have noticed about the insta-pots is that in a lot of videos and from watching friends who have one, more often than not, the user tends to do the quick release of the pressure so they can open the top sooner.   The 35 year old stainless manual pressure cooker I have does not have a way to do this.  They force you to wait for it to naturally cool and release the lock.   That simple design change is shaving a lot of time and heat off of some cooks in the newer units with quick release.  That may account for some of the differences.


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## foamheart (Jun 24, 2019)

bdskelly said:


> You’re blowing the time out whistle?  My point was... isn’t it remarkable how we all make a living? Scientists, oil field supply, new parts for used cars...
> This being said. You nor I have an Instapot.  Perhaps I should send you one come your birthday soon.  Me thinks you might use it as a chamber pot!



They look like the old milk cans. Dirt Sailor had one and loved it. I just got too many gadgets now, I don't think I have enough time to master them all.


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## johnmeyer (Jun 24, 2019)

foamheart said:


> They look like the old milk cans. Dirt Sailor had one and loved it. I just got too many gadgets now, I don't think I have enough time to master them all.


Ah yes, too many gadgets and not enough time. I hear 'ya.

However, FWIW, my pressure cooker long ago made the leap from gadget to essential tool. I use it 2-4 times a week. It cooks potatoes for mashed potatoes in under ten minutes, and yields a vastly superior, non soggy texture; it cooks rice in as little as six minutes, and the rice is super fluffy; it cooks dried beans in 1/3 to 1/4 of the normal time, and always gets them cooked (I hate under-done beans); it is wonderful for any type of stew (e.g., pot roast); and it lets me produce my various soups (there are six recipes I rotate through) in far less time, and with better results.

It is not like sous vide, which is pretty neat, but for me, not essential. It is still in the gadget category.

To re-use a famous quote made about a completely different product: "I'll give you my pressure cooker when you pry it from my cold, dead hands."


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## foamheart (Jun 24, 2019)

I have I think 3 pressure cookers all have a purpose but..... I am just not a time junkie like most folks. I don't mind a butt taking 18 to 22 hours. My boiled taters are dione in 20 mins, and depending upon the type, blackeyed an hour or pinto or red 6 hours, rice is 14 mins and I cook a lot. I really don't mind the time. I love the aromas, I love smelling mustard greens cooking all day, and old hen the bubbling in stock, making the marvelous broth. Tasting and adding a pinch here or a dash there or some new modifier that I never though of before.  

My Mom always was asked to bring beans to every outing. Just old baked "Boy Scout" beans. She's make 2 or 3 gallons and they sit cooking in a roaster overnight in the kitchen and we'd all beg for some beans for breakfast.... LOL Two days and all night was just more than could be stood by mortals!

Pop once told me the reason the things are so good is you have been "wooed" all day by that smell. It making the food taste better because you have thought about so long. I gotta agree cause it sure seems to work on me. About the only pressured food I do is an old tuff roast into stew. A  stew with beef gones it out standing and take just a little over an hour. But again, it would be ok to take longer but and old tuff beef roast /w bones will nearly always get burned at some point during a regular cooking process. 

I just don't see the need for speed. In the summer your still heating up the house fast or slow. Low and slow outside one the grill or inside on the stove. But I am a majority of one here. Everyone wants faster. Everyone wants cooking to be chemistry or math an exact science, I think cooking is more akin to art, you can cook good food, but to be really special you've got to love what you are doing. So why shorten it?


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## bdskelly (Jun 24, 2019)

foamheart said:


> I have I think 3 pressure cookers all have a purpose but..... I am just not a time junkie like most folks. I don't mind a butt taking 18 to 22 hours. My boiled taters are dione in 20 mins, and depending upon the type, blackeyed an hour or pinto or red 6 hours, rice is 14 mins and I cook a lot. I really don't mind the time. I love the aromas, I love smelling mustard greens cooking all day, and old hen the bubbling in stock, making the marvelous broth. Tasting and adding a pinch here or a dash there or some new modifier that I never though of before.
> 
> My Mom always was asked to bring beans to every outing. Just old baked "Boy Scout" beans. She's make 2 or 3 gallons and they sit cooking in a roaster overnight in the kitchen and we'd all beg for some beans for breakfast.... LOL Two days and all night was just more than could be stood by mortals!
> 
> ...


Well said.  B


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## johnmeyer (Jun 24, 2019)

I can't disagree with any of that, foamheart, especially the part about smelling your food for hours or days before the meal.


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