# MES 30 Help



## mneder (Sep 9, 2022)

I'm new here. Posted this message for mbtechnician but then thought others might be able to help too, So reposting here.                                                         6 minutes ago                             

Need help please. I bought a used MES 30 with glass door and BlueTooth and built in probe (which I don't use). It's out of warranty (if it ever had one - somebody brushed out the SN when I went looking for it when this problem began). Worked fine at first until I had a small explosion and fire on night at the start of cooking a brisket (never figured out the cause). Since then the smoked just shuts down without any warning in the middle of a cook. I reset the temp/time and it runs for a 5-10 minutes and then shuts down again. This cycle can go on and on, or sometime it might go for an hour before stopping. Is there some easy fix? Did the fire screw up one on the temp sensors (controller sensor or overheat sensor? I'm about to give up. Really can't use it the way it is. Thanks.


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## 912smoker (Sep 9, 2022)

Welcome to SMF from SE GA and don't give up! 

 tallbm
 or 

 Bearcarver
  will be along to help !

Keith


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## tallbm (Sep 9, 2022)

mneder said:


> I'm new here. Posted this message for mbtechnician but then thought others might be able to help too, So reposting here.                                                         6 minutes ago
> 
> Need help please. I bought a used MES 30 with glass door and BlueTooth and built in probe (which I don't use). It's out of warranty (if it ever had one - somebody brushed out the SN when I went looking for it when this problem began). Worked fine at first until I had a small explosion and fire on night at the start of cooking a brisket (never figured out the cause). Since then the smoked just shuts down without any warning in the middle of a cook. I reset the temp/time and it runs for a 5-10 minutes and then shuts down again. This cycle can go on and on, or sometime it might go for an hour before stopping. Is there some easy fix? Did the fire screw up one on the temp sensors (controller sensor or overheat sensor? I'm about to give up. Really can't use it the way it is. Thanks.


Hi there and welcome!

My bet is that your safety rollout limit switch has burned up.  If you look on the inside back wall of your smoker it looks like a round "button" about the size of a quarter, see the following image:







If you are lucky you have a panel on the back that allows you access like the smaller image on the right hand side above.  If no panel then you have to cut one or pull the back off to get to it.  I suggest if no panel exists that you cut one because the switch is cheap and melts down and you may replace a few... I sure have hahaha.

This is a common failure point on an MES.  What happens is that switch starts to melt down and heats up directly at the switch.
The whole purpose of that switch is that if it reads temps over like 305F degrees it will cut power off to the heating element until the temp dies down.
So if the switch itself is melting down and overheating well it gets a false reading... until it burns up completely.
This is a common failure.

So get to that switch and check if it is burnt up at all.  I bet the switch and or the connectors to it are burnt up. 

If you find the switch burnt up you can clip the connectors and wire nut the wires together and that should feed power to the heating element but WARNING you are doing so without a safety switch in the mix so do at your own peril.
You can wire nut them together to confirm that it heats up and holds temp for a bit at like 225F and if so you know the switch was the only problem.

If you want a replacement switch I would suggest the ceramic version but again these are still cheap switches.  There are 2 different styles of this switch which look the same BUT ARE NOT THE SAME.  If you replace GET THIS EXACT ONE:

Please check and report back on what you find.
If you have to cut a panel it is worth replacing all your electrical connectors with good high temp ones at the heating element and the safety switch as they are the #1 failure point on MES smokers.  They use super cheap female spade connectors (1/4 inch AWG 16) that corrode and burn up all the time.

Let us know what you find and we can get u back up and running.  We've helped a ton of people find and fix these kinds of issues, they aren't too hard to deal with. Especially if its just a failing switch or connector :)


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## mneder (Sep 10, 2022)

tallbm said:


> Hi there and welcome!
> 
> My bet is that your safety rollout limit switch has burned up.  If you look on the inside back wall of your smoker it looks like a round "button" about the size of a quarter, see the following image:
> View attachment 643356
> ...


Thanks for the info. I do not have an access panel either inside or on the back for the overtemp sensor. I only have one access panel on the back at the bottom. It looks like it is for the heating element. 

I like the idea of bypassing the over temp sensor. I use blue tooth sensors for both internal meat temp and ambient temp below) 200 or above 300 deg. 

I have limited tools and metal work experience. What's the best way to cut an access panel on the back? Could I get to the overtemp sensor wiring at the existing access panel on the back without having to cut a hole in the back?


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## Bearcarver (Sep 11, 2022)

mneder said:


> Thanks for the info. I do not have an access panel either inside or on the back for the overtemp sensor. I only have one access panel on the back at the bottom. It looks like it is for the heating element.
> 
> I like the idea of bypassing the over temp sensor. I use blue tooth sensors for both internal meat temp and ambient temp below) 200 or above 300 deg.
> 
> I have limited tools and metal work experience. What's the best way to cut an access panel on the back? Could I get to the overtemp sensor wiring at the existing access panel on the back without having to cut a hole in the back?


Stick with Tallbm---He'll get you squared away---He's My Goto on MES repairs.
If it's just smoke that stops for you, you need an AMNPS.

Bear


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## mneder (Sep 11, 2022)

Here's another question. If I convert to PID, does that bypass the high heat limit sensor (rollover?)?


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## chopsaw (Sep 11, 2022)

mneder said:


> Here's another question. If I convert to PID, does that bypass the high heat limit sensor (rollover?)?


If you follow Tallbm's wiring , no . 
My opinion is you should leave it in the circuit . 
I had mine save me a couple years ago , and I monitor with blue tooth , same as you . 

The metal on the back is thin . It doesn't take much to cut it out . A pair of snips if you have them work well . Just get a hole started , then use the snips .


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## tallbm (Sep 12, 2022)

mneder said:


> Thanks for the info. I do not have an access panel either inside or on the back for the overtemp sensor. I only have one access panel on the back at the bottom. It looks like it is for the heating element.
> 
> I like the idea of bypassing the over temp sensor. I use blue tooth sensors for both internal meat temp and ambient temp below) 200 or above 300 deg.
> 
> I have limited tools and metal work experience. What's the best way to cut an access panel on the back? Could I get to the overtemp sensor wiring at the existing access panel on the back without having to cut a hole in the back?



Well depending on the back of your smoker there is a way to get to the safety switch but it involves pulling off the entire back.  If you have a back that installed with rivets you drill them out and replace with sheet metal screws.
If you have the bent lip backing that is a nightmare, i know.  You have to try and hammer the sheet metal back into the lip and then you will still want to put some sheet metal screws in to hold it in place so it doesnt pop out.
Both cases are more work than cutting a panel AND if you have to get back to that switch or wiring you have to do the whole ordeal again so having a simple panel is way faster and more ideal in the long run.

The best way to cut the simplest "access panel" with minimal tools is to drill a hole and use tin/sheet metal snips that can fit in the hole and allow you to cut a shape like this on the back over the area where the safety rollout limit switch is:













						Milwaukee 10 in. Left-Cut Aviation Snips 48-22-4510 - The Home Depot
					

Cut more metal than ever with Milwaukee Aviation Snips. The forged blades deliver up to 10X more cuts than cast blades. Bolt Lock prevents the blades from loosening and a durable chrome plating provides



					www.homedepot.com
				




Then you just peel the left side to the left and right side to the right to get to the comportment holding the switch.  Next you will unscrew the housing that is underneath the panel you created and you will have direct access to the switch and will likely see it and/or the connectors all burnt up.

When done you just fold the metal back in place, hammer it down a little to stay and cover with foil flue tape like this:








						Nashua Tape 1.89 in. x 30 yd. Water Heater Installation Air Duct Tape 1529787 - The Home Depot
					

Professional results that a DIYer can be proud of begins with Water Heater Installation UL Listed Tape by Nashua. This tape is designed to seal insulation jackets for maximum system efficiency. When used



					www.homedepot.com
				




Should you need to get back into it u just cut he tape, bend open the metal and u are back in the area.




mneder said:


> Here's another question. If I convert to PID, does that bypass the high heat limit sensor (rollover?)?



The simple rewire I suggest for the MES keeps the safety rollout limit switch in the circuit.  The rewire is a simple cutting off of 4 wire ends and then wire nut or splice of wire ends to make 2 whole wires out of those ends.
This now allows power to flow from the MES plug to the heating element with the safety rollout switch in the mix.
Simple.  
Anyone that can cut a wire, strip a little insulation off the wire end, and use a wire nut, can do the rewire for PID conversion. That simple!

If the problem doesn't happen to be that switch, I guarantee you at some point it will fail so having the panel is great for that day anyhow.  I strongly feel that switch is what is failing according to what you describe and how many people we help on here with this kind of problem.

One other thing to consider with the PID conversion is that the smoker you end up with is easily 10x better performing than what you have now or anything masterbuilt makes brand new.
It is an apples and oranges comparison once you do a PID conversion.
I always say its like turning your golf cart into a Ferrari when it comes to performance hahaha.

I hope all this info helps :)


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## tbern (Sep 12, 2022)

very nice explanation, tallbm!!


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## tallbm (Sep 12, 2022)

tbern said:


> very nice explanation, tallbm!!


Thanks :)


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## mneder (Sep 12, 2022)

tbern said:


> very nice explanation, tallbm!!


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## mneder (Sep 12, 2022)

Thanks everyone for all the great info. I ordered the roll over switch today and I'm going to order a PID. Just trying to understand the options. Advice anyone. The Argus WiFi is pricey but I can see a lot of advantages to having it on a phone app. Thoughts?


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## cmayna (Sep 12, 2022)

For a PID, go Auber brand.  A lot of us use their model ws-1510elpm.  Mine is wired directly to the element, bypassing all original wiring.


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## tallbm (Sep 12, 2022)

mneder said:


> Thanks everyone for all the great info. I ordered the roll over switch today and I'm going to order a PID. Just trying to understand the options. Advice anyone. The Argus WiFi is pricey but I can see a lot of advantages to having it on a phone app. Thoughts?


Like 

 cmayna
 mentions Auber is a good brand that works.  I recommend them a lot because they work and are whole units.

Here is the the lowest price one that would run your 1200watt unit well:





						Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
					

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...



					www.auberins.com
				




Here's their wifi one:





						WIFI Electric Smoker Controller, 1800 Watts [AW-1520H] - $234.99 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
					

Auber Instruments, Inc. WIFI Electric Smoker Controller, 1800 Watts [AW-1520H] - This plug-and-play PID controller regulates the temperature of the electric smokers, such as Smokin-it®, Smokin Tex and Masterbuilt Smoker. This controller uses a PID algorithm to automatically adjust the power...



					www.auberins.com
				




Their manual isn't very easy to understand.  Initially setting it up really isnt that complex but their confusing instructions are annoying, BUT once you get the settings in you don't really have to ever do it again.
Now with that said, the wifi unit lets you do all settings from the phone app which is reported to be super easy to use so some people opt for the wifi simply because its so simple to enter the settings AND obviously you get wifi functionality :D

The prices may seem a bit high but honestly it is less expensive to buy these than it is to buy all the tools, parts, and components needed to build a complete PID unit yourself.
If you have already built one before and have the tools and extra components then the main PID parts and the time are all you have to spend.

I hope this info helps :)


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## mneder (Sep 14, 2022)

tallbm said:


> Like
> 
> cmayna
> mentions Auber is a good brand that works.  I recommend them a lot because they work and are whole units.
> ...


Report- I feel like I'm back to square one. I replaced the roll over limit switch today. Only problem I had was I cut one of the wires to the switch when I was cutting the back open. I used a crimp connector with heat shrink to repair it. Then I turned the smoker on to test it at 250 deg for 24 hours. I added a pan of water and burned wood chips,  just like a cook but without meat. The smoker ran perfectly for four hours and then turned off on its own again. (before the repair it wouldn't have gone more than an hour or two at the most before shutting down.) As timing would have it, I just finished ordering the Auber 1520 Wifi from Auber Instruments when the smoker shut down. I turned it back on, again 250 deg and 24 hours and it worked for less than an hour and shut off again. I just started it for the third time at 275 feg and 24 hours. I expect it to turn itself off again any time now. Not sure what to do at this point..... cancel the Auber or install it to replace the electronic controls on my smoker. Besides the roll over limit switch and the control panel is then anything else that has the ability to force an uncommanded power off of a Masterbuilt smoker?

Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions?


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## cmayna (Sep 15, 2022)

Update on your 3rd attempt?  If it failed again,  I would get the auber as planned and as what I did, I over rode my Masterbuilt's entire circuitry by attaching a power cord directly to the heating element, then plug the power cord to the Auber.

Just like plugging a Big or Little Chief smoker to an Auber.  Been there, done that.


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## zwiller (Sep 15, 2022)

cmayna said:


> Update on your 3rd attempt?  If it failed again,  I would get the auber as planned and as what I did, I over rode my Masterbuilt's entire circuitry by attaching a power cord directly to the heating element, then plug the power cord to the Auber.
> 
> Just like plugging a Big or Little Chief smoker to an Auber.  Been there, done that.


+1  That's what I would do.  I have been putting off doing the Auber install but plan to do it soon.  Got the wifi as well.  Didn't see anyone say it but the performance of the MES+Auber is well known to be night and day from stock.  Remember you can always use it if you get another smoker.  For some reason I never really thought of it like that.


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## chopsaw (Sep 15, 2022)

mneder said:


> Not sure what to do at this point


Keep the Auber coming and get it installed . You won't regret it . 
Plenty of help here . Let us know when you're going to do it in case you have questions , or you can do like some and hook it right to the element itself .


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## tallbm (Sep 15, 2022)

mneder said:


> Report- I feel like I'm back to square one. I replaced the roll over limit switch today. Only problem I had was I cut one of the wires to the switch when I was cutting the back open. I used a crimp connector with heat shrink to repair it. Then I turned the smoker on to test it at 250 deg for 24 hours. I added a pan of water and burned wood chips,  just like a cook but without meat. The smoker ran perfectly for four hours and then turned off on its own again. (before the repair it wouldn't have gone more than an hour or two at the most before shutting down.) As timing would have it, I just finished ordering the Auber 1520 Wifi from Auber Instruments when the smoker shut down. I turned it back on, again 250 deg and 24 hours and it worked for less than an hour and shut off again. I just started it for the third time at 275 feg and 24 hours. I expect it to turn itself off again any time now. Not sure what to do at this point..... cancel the Auber or install it to replace the electronic controls on my smoker. Besides the roll over limit switch and the control panel is then anything else that has the ability to force an uncommanded power off of a Masterbuilt smoker?
> 
> Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions?


When you replaced the safety switch was the old one melted down or any of the connectors corroded away?
Also, those switches are super cheaply built.
When installing the new one if you wiggled the tab where it moved at the back of the plastic base of the switch it will melt down on you in no time.
If you check the switch again I wonder if the new one already failed.  I've had them fail that fast on me because I didn't know how delicate they were and how moving the tabs at all would cause them to fail super fast.

Finally, have you tried just not using the switch and just using a wire nut to connect the 2 wire ends directly thereby removing the safety switch from the equation to confirm the switch is failing?
If you do this keep an eye on the smoker temp it because you no longer have the safety switch in the mix.


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## mneder (Sep 17, 2022)

tallbm said:


> When you replaced the safety switch was the old one melted down or any of the connectors corroded away?
> Also, those switches are super cheaply built.
> When installing the new one if you wiggled the tab where it moved at the back of the plastic base of the switch it will melt down on you in no time.
> If you check the switch again I wonder if the new one already failed.  I've had them fail that fast on me because I didn't know how delicate they were and how moving the tabs at all would cause them to fail super fast.
> ...


UPDATE- Whe I was performing my test with the new limit switch the unit failed three times before I terminated the test. The fist uncommanded turn off was about three hours into the test. The second and third were after approx 30 minutes each. When I removed the old limit switch I did not see any obvious damage to the switch or the terminals/connectors. The Auber id due to arrive togay. My plan is to do the basic rewire and test it to see if that resolve the shut down problem. If that doesn't work I'll bypass the roll limit switch and test again.

UPDATE 2- I removed the metal plate at the bottom-back of my MES to rewire it for the Aubur Wifi unit and was surprised to find that the wiring is completely different than the pics I've seen in this forum. Basically, the panel covered two wires only. One from a grommet on the right side of the panel and one from the bottom. That's it. I suspect these two wires are from the (right side) roll limit switch and (bottom) hot wire for the heating element, but I'm not positive about this.  They both are plugged into have spade connectors- I suspect that are the heating element lugs. So, how do I rewire this for the Auber? Do I have to remove the entire back (drill out rivets), or is there a simpler, better solution?  Help!


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## tallbm (Sep 17, 2022)

mneder said:


> UPDATE- Whe I was performing my test with the new limit switch the unit failed three times before I terminated the test. The fist uncommanded turn off was about three hours into the test. The second and third were after approx 30 minutes each. When I removed the old limit switch I did not see any obvious damage to the switch or the terminals/connectors. The Auber id due to arrive togay. My plan is to do the basic rewire and test it to see if that resolve the shut down problem. If that doesn't work I'll bypass the roll limit switch and test again.


Thanks for the update.

Sounds like a solid plan.  
The behavior you describe sound like a failing limit switch but the other much rarer possibility is that the relay at the circuit board is acting up and getting stuck in an off position.
With the simple rewire and use of an Auber you cut that whole thing out of the mix so if it all works with the safety rollout limit switch in the mix then we know it was likely that relay or something else failing at the lower circuit board or hell even something failing within the upper MES controller.

The body construction is the strength of the MES, the electronics and electrical components are the weak spots.

I'm looking forward to what you find.  I am confident you are almost there to fixing all your problems for a looooooong time :)


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## cmayna (Sep 17, 2022)

Yes, I believe the bottom pic is showing the connection to the heating element.  This is where I simply disconnected the factory wires from the element and attached a new power cord to the element.  The other end of the new power cord plugs to the Auber PID.   Simple as that!    Keep in mind that the temp probe of the Auber  is dropped down thru the top vent of the Masterbuilt.


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## mneder (Sep 17, 2022)

cmayna said:


> Yes, I believe the bottom pic is showing the connection to the heating element.  This is where I simply disconnected the factory wires from the element and attached a new power cord to the element.  The other end of the new power cord plugs to the Auber PID.   Simple as that!    Keep in mind that the temp probe of the Auber  is dropped down thru the top vent of the Masterbuilt.


Thanks for the reply. If I connect a power cord directly to the heating element terminals, do I need a ground wire too? If so, where does it get attached? I guess this would eliminate the roll limit switch from the circuit. Any good way to get it back?


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## MJB05615 (Sep 17, 2022)

I've been using the Auber on my MES 40 Gen i for a little over 2 years, and never had any issues with it.  Like said above the difference in operation is night and day.  I wired the power cord directly to the heating Element, and I use it at least 2-3 times a month all year.  I agree you're losing some potential protection if Temps get too high, but I took the gamble and it;s been paying off.


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## mneder (Sep 18, 2022)

MJB- Thanks. Can you describe for me how you connected the Auber directly to your smoker'd heating element. Did you drill a new hole in the access panel? Did you connect the ground wire? Did you preserve the moisture barrier to the heater element terminals?  Any additional info appreciated. 

Everyone- Looks like I either drill rivets to remove the back panel and then figure out how to rewire with the roll limit switch in the circuit, or snip the power cord and reattach it directly to the heater terminals without a roll limit switch in the circuit. I'm leaning on the later- direct connect. Doesn't the Auber take the place of the roll limit switch? When it reaches the programmed internal temperature it cuts power to the heating element and won't turn it back on until the internal temp goes down below the programmed temperature (which won't happen with a fire). So the Auber acts just like the roll limit switch, right? If I'm right about that, then the only safety concern I have is a proper direct connect between the auber and the MES heating element terminals.  

More experienced advice greatly appreciated.


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## cmayna (Sep 18, 2022)

mneder said:


> Thanks for the reply. If I connect a power cord directly to the heating element terminals, do I need a ground wire too? If so, where does it get attached? I guess this would eliminate the roll limit switch from the circuit. Any good way to get it back?


Yes, you use a 3 wire power cord which would have the two power cables and a ground wire.  I drilled a hole thru the small access panel which covers access to the ends of the element.  Simply disconnect the original wires from the element and attach the new power cord.  Let me see if I can find some pics.  Here's a pic of the new (14/3) power cord coming out of the smoker's lower access panel.  Next to it is the retired original cord.

Per the 3rd pic below, the ground screw is seen between the two element terminals.


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## dr k (Sep 19, 2022)

The PC board is on the bottom of the smoker. Lay the smoker on its back. Drill out the rivets or remove screws if you have them. I used binder clips to hold the cover back in place or if you have sheet metal screws.


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## dr k (Sep 19, 2022)

Or direct connect. Get a digital multi probe therm that you can set the pit probe to an audible alert range like 145-290 to act in place of the safety switch.


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## MJB05615 (Sep 20, 2022)

I am not very good with small parts, electronics, etc.  Originally 

 dr k
 talked me through it, and I had an electrician friend come over to cut the small hole for the Auber wire.  He connected it directly to the Heating element, covered back up and that was it.  Been working perfectly about 2 years.  I'll always be grateful because this made it into a much better by far, Smoker.  I later removed the MES control panel, I was able to do that myself, lol.


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## mneder (Sep 20, 2022)

MJB05615 said:


> I am not very good with small parts, electronics, etc.  Originally
> 
> dr k
> talked me through it, and I had an electrician friend come over to cut the small hole for the Auber wire.  He connected it directly to the Heating element, covered back up and that was it.  Been working perfectly about 2 years.  I'll always be grateful because this made it into a much better by far, Smoker.  I later removed the MES control panel, I was able to do that myself, lol.


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## mneder (Sep 20, 2022)

Sorry for lack of progress report. Family member in hospital. Hope to be back to it in a couple of days.


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## tbern (Sep 20, 2022)

mneder said:


> Sorry for lack of progress report. Family member in hospital. Hope to be back to it in a couple of days.


Sorry to hear that, hopefully a quick recovery will happen for them.


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## MJB05615 (Sep 21, 2022)

mneder said:


> Sorry for lack of progress report. Family member in hospital. Hope to be back to it in a couple of days.


So sorry to hear.  Let us know how it goes.


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## mneder (Oct 2, 2022)

Final update. I installed the Auber Wifi (AW-1520H) and connected it directly to the heating element with a ground (no roll limit switch in the circuit). Actually, the Aubur replaces the roll limit high heat function by shutting down the heating element if a high limit temp is ever reached (I have it set for 310 deg F.) This weekend I cooked an 8 Lb pork shoulder. Smoking time was around 8 hours at 275 deg F and once cooking temp was reached the Auber controlled the temp within +/- 1 degree for the entire cooking time. I was very impressed and look forward to using the Auber a lot more very soon. BTW, the app for the Wifi PID make programming it a very simple process, even for complex multi-step cooking programs.


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## zwiller (Oct 3, 2022)

mneder
 Sounds great.  Just went Auber this weekend (wifi as well) and was impressive but my connectivity with app stinks.  Wondering if I got a dud.  Does your stay connected/green?


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## Winterrider (Oct 3, 2022)

zwiller
 , maybe you have but try uninstall of app, phone off and then on and load app again. I had a GPS app that was kinda funky like that, would work for awhile and then lose connectivity and haven't had issues since. It is possible you may have gotten the bad apple, worth a call to Auber, might walk you thru something missing. Good luck


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## zwiller (Oct 3, 2022)

Winterrider
 That's actually a great idea thanks!  I'll do that before reaching out.  I have not found any complaints online about it so does not seem to be a common problem.


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## mneder (Oct 3, 2022)

zwiller- Now that you mention it I also had wifi connectivity issues. The phone app would show that the Auber lost wifi connectivity and displayed 'reconnecting" just about every time I checked it. It would usually reconnect on it's own in less than 10 seconds and then update the app. I attributed this to the distance and walls between the Auber and the server, and I plan to switch the wifi network to my wifi extender, but haven't done so yet. I'll report after I do. It doesn't affect unit performance but it does affect my ability to monitor the cook remotely.


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## zwiller (Oct 3, 2022)

mneder said:


> zwiller- Now that you mention it I also had wifi connectivity issues. The phone app would show that the Auber lost wifi connectivity and displayed 'reconnecting" just about every time I checked it. It would usually reconnect on it's own in less than 10 seconds and then update the app. I attributed this to the distance and walls between the Auber and the server, and I plan to switch the wifi network to my wifi extender, but haven't done so yet. I'll report after I do. It doesn't affect unit performance but it does affect my ability to monitor the cook remotely.


MANY THANKS.  I am not sure what is normal here.  Seems like it should stay connected all the time but realize it probably only updates the data depending the settings and is not "live".  I think I set mine 2m/12hrs.  So i bet it only needs to connect every 2m.  Totally agree it does NOT affect the performance tho.  Controller is rock solid.  I am not a guy to look at my phone every minute but do expect that when I do look I will get accurate info and not having that yet.  My issue is that it does not connect when outside and it really isn't that far away from router.  It shows connected but temp 0 Celcius.  Wifi light on controller long flashes.  I tried an extender and did not help.  Hoping reinstall fixes.


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## mneder (Oct 3, 2022)

zwiller said:


> MANY THANKS.  I am not sure what is normal here.  Seems like it should stay connected all the time but realize it probably only updates the data depending the settings and is not "live".  I think I set mine 2m/12hrs.  So i bet it only needs to connect every 2m.  Totally agree it does NOT affect the performance tho.  Controller is rock solid.  I am not a guy to look at my phone every minute but do expect that when I do look I will get accurate info and not having that yet.  My issue is that it does not connect when outside and it really isn't that far away from router.  It shows connected but temp 0 Celcius.  Wifi light on controller long flashes.  I tried an extender and did not help.  Hoping reinstall fixes.


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## mneder (Oct 3, 2022)

I do have an issue with Auber's documentation. It's piss poor. Connecting to Wi-Fi is like black magic you just push enough buttons and eventually it works but you don't understand why or how to do it again.


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## tallbm (Oct 3, 2022)

mneder said:


> Final update. I installed the Auber Wifi (AW-1520H) and connected it directly to the heating element with a ground (no roll limit switch in the circuit). Actually, the Aubur replaces the roll limit high heat function by shutting down the heating element if a high limit temp is ever reached (I have it set for 310 deg F.) This weekend I cooked an 8 Lb pork shoulder. Smoking time was around 8 hours at 275 deg F and once cooking temp was reached the Auber controlled the temp within +/- 1 degree for the entire cooking time. I was very impressed and look forward to using the Auber a lot more very soon. BTW, the app for the Wifi PID make programming it a very simple process, even for complex multi-step cooking programs.


Glad you got it goin and all is well!  
You are seeing first hand how the rewire and a PID controller turns the MES into a complete beast!

Do you also use the A-Maze-N Pellet Smoker tray by any chance?
If so you now have true set and forget capability :)

I look forward to seeing what you make with it.


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## tallbm (Oct 3, 2022)

zwiller said:


> MANY THANKS.  I am not sure what is normal here.  Seems like it should stay connected all the time but realize it probably only updates the data depending the settings and is not "live".  I think I set mine 2m/12hrs.  So i bet it only needs to connect every 2m.  Totally agree it does NOT affect the performance tho.  Controller is rock solid.  I am not a guy to look at my phone every minute but do expect that when I do look I will get accurate info and not having that yet.  My issue is that it does not connect when outside and it really isn't that far away from router.  It shows connected but temp 0 Celcius.  Wifi light on controller long flashes.  I tried an extender and did not help.  Hoping reinstall fixes.


Other simple things to check.

Since you messed with your router and renamed your two bands (2.4 and 5.0) are you sure the Auber is setup to talk go the correct band?

Also,  you may need an extender very close.  I have my extender on the inside wall outlet that is literally on the opposite side of the wall from my smoker.  Had my wifi PID setup to connect to it and all was well... until the wifi portion of my PID died (my PID is a Heatermeter not an Auber).  I just live without wifi but it taught me a lot while it was working.  I no longer need the feature and just rock on without it :) 

These things are easy to check without buying equipment and so on.  I always tell people I work with that it cost almost nothing to double or triple check but costs quite a bit to go another route and be wrong only to find something that could have been fixed with an extra check :D


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## zwiller (Oct 4, 2022)

Did the uninstall etc and worse.  Cannot even connect to it inside the house.  This weekend I tried an extender on an outlet like 10' away and was not any better.  Contacting Auber...


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## mneder (Oct 4, 2022)

Please let me know what they say.


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## zwiller (Oct 6, 2022)

mneder said:


> Please let me know what they say.



Will do but nothing yet.  Saw your post over at the Auber Forum...  Joining and will jump in your thread when active.  Not expecting much from the app but do expect the connectivity to be solid.  Already preparing for the need to use an extender but think my wifi module is shot.  Just had an idea.  I think there is a way to do a factory reset.  Will try that when home.


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## zwiller (Oct 7, 2022)

Day 2 nothing from Auber.  Decided to play around with it.  I did a factory reset and appears to have helped.  I am probably jinxing it by posting that.  LOL.  Ran it last night and early AM and acting very solid. I was REALLY happy it connected this AM and didn't have to redo the pairing.  Connectivity acts as expected, not bouncing between yellow and green connectivity.  It does go yellow after I don't use my phone for awhile and takes like 10 seconds to connect but eventually it turns green/connected and stays.  I think that is normal.  Data logging working fine.  One thing I noticed was the very first time I turned it on the Auber it was defaulted to Celcius but now after the reboot I didn't need to change it as it defaulted to F.  I hope that is a good sign.  More testing to follow this weekend.


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