# Rusty offset smoker restoration



## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

Finally got a new/used smoker after having started out years ago on a weber bullet type smoker and most recently relying on a mini weber charcoal grill.  I carefully kept up on the mini but it was less than efficient too say the least.  The bullet got rusty and messy and I got tired of dealing with the operation of this type.  It was a pain in the butt but it was free.

I came upon what appears to be a dated Oklahoma Joe or similar but appears bigger than the Longhorn.  Measures 19.5x40 and the firebox is big at 19.5x20 totaling 1170 sq inches of cooking space.  This sucker hasnt been maintained at all but I paid $100 cash and think it was a good deal. 

Today I set out to begin restoring it and went at it with an angle grinder with a large wire wheel.  Took alot of rust off but there is some pitting on the warming plate above the firebox.  The inside was not maintained and while the cooking chamber is just rusty at the bottom, the bottom of the fire box is flaking quite a bit.  Any recommendations on the firebox?  I am worried about rust between the cooking chamber and the firebox and am thinking about grinding off the bolts, restoring both chambers separately and then re assembling them with new hardware??

I am planning to remove the rust from the inside and outside with the grinder.  I was going to wipe it down with acetone or alcohol and prime it with a couple coats of 2000 degree primer and follow up with some rustoleum 1200 degree flat black.  I was going to use oil on the inside.  Should I use oil on top of the new paint to keep it from peeling or just keep it clean and dry?

I appreciate any recommendations or suggestions!  Thanks!
QProject


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## mike243 (Dec 4, 2020)

Welcome Home, they host pictures here so it's super easy to post them,  post some pictures to help folks see what your dealing with


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## flatbroke (Dec 4, 2020)

Z
 zippy12
 did something similar to his i believe and  may be able to lend some tips


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## JLeonard (Dec 4, 2020)

Welcome to the forums from Mississippi. Lots of info to be gleaned here.
Jim


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## Cole Leffert (Dec 4, 2020)

I would take the time to separate the cook chamber and firebox. Grind it all down to bare metal. Paint the outside with high temp paint and oil only on the inside. You will not need oil on the outside.  If you do not get the hidden rust now it will cause problems sooner than later. Good luck and have fun!


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## SmokinAl (Dec 4, 2020)

We all want to see photo’s of this restoration!
Please document it for us. It sounds like a great project!
Al


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## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

How about pb blaster on the firebox nuts?  If I'm still going to grind and clean will that be ok or should it avoid spraying inside?  Not sure how hard they might be but will check this afternoon and get more pics.  

Alcohol or acetone to prep?  I'm not moving forward on that until you all think I've got enough rust removed.  I'm so excited to get back in the smoke ring again!  Second pic you can see some of the work I did already the outside is way better I'll update later today!
Thanks y'all!


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## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

Any suggestions for really cleaning the rust off the inside other than the wire wheel?  I had one of those black sponge wheels but it didn't last more than a few minutes


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## Cole Leffert (Dec 4, 2020)

Sanding disks for an angle grinder work amazing! The more bare metal you get down to the better off you will be.


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## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

Cole Leffert said:


> Sanding disks for an angle grinder work amazing! The more bare metal you get down to the better off you will be.



I think I'm going to grab a couple more discs for the inside.  Going to get back at it this afternoon.

Oh what about the spots where the grinder won't fit like between the leg supports?


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## HalfSmoked (Dec 4, 2020)

Great fine and a work restoration. There will be a lot of help from the guys on here.

Welcome to the forum.

Warren


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## Cole Leffert (Dec 4, 2020)

QProject said:


> I think I'm going to grab a couple more discs for the inside.  Going to get back at it this afternoon.
> 
> Oh what about the spots where the grinder won't fit like between the leg supports?


Most hardware stores or automotive stores carry rust stopper or rust neutralizer. It is a liquid you put on rust to stop the rust. You could use that in the spots you can't get to. If you use it inside the cook chamber or firebox, I would make sure to clean it out good with some alcohol and then run a hot fire in there after you have it all back together to burn any chemicals out before cooking. It would probably be safer just to not, use it in the inside.


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## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

Cole Leffert said:


> Most hardware stores or automotive stores carry rust stopper or rust neutralizer. It is a liquid you put on rust to stop the rust. You could use that in the spots you can't get to. If you use it inside the cook chamber or firebox, I would make sure to clean it out good with some alcohol and then run a hot fire in there after you have it all back together to burn any chemicals out before cooking. It would probably be safer just to not, use it in the inside.



You mean naval jelly?

I have a rust-oleum rust stopper spray but not going to use that stuff inside.

Thanks


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## Cole Leffert (Dec 4, 2020)

QProject said:


> You mean naval jelly?
> 
> I have a rust-oleum rust stopper spray but not going to use that stuff inside.
> 
> Thanks


Yes, naval jelly!


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## bill1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Call mine a minority opinion, but I'd go easy on it, esp the firebox.  Phosphoric acid based rust removers work great but I think you'll be disappointed in the swiss cheese you're left with.  If this was sheet metal in a car, absolutely, go to town, you can Bondo it afterwards.  But that won't work here--you need strength at high temp.  

You want it completely dry first thing.  If it seems the moisture is deep into the rust, move it into the garage and put a couple of 60-100W incandescent light bulbs into the fire box and chamber to dry it out for a couple days.  (I use LEDs for actual droplight usage but save those old-timey fixtures for heating/drying/curing jobs like this.)  Then lightly sand the outside surfaces and paint.  Consider some variety in sheens or even color to make an artistic expression.  (Waxing your car makes it run better too.)  That's it for the outside.  Then start applying cooking oil on the inside.  After a few coats, start wiping with a rag, not even a wire brush.  Some major rust chunks may come off.  Shed a tear, throw them out,  and continue coating.    Then try low-temp cure with the heat lamps.  While still warm, wipe again to get the bulk of the oil off.  Heat a chimney of coals and distribute throughout the firebox _and _chamber and do a medium cure.  Don't use Kingsford or you'll have a bunch of ash to deal with.  At this point you can start spraying the inside with the cooking oils in the can, it's much easier, after each "cook".  Then proceed to a high temp cure, basically building the hottest fire in the firebox you intend to make.  Note your should have a grate for the fuel to rest on, not on the very bottom.  If your outer paint bubbles, sand and touchup later.  Consider hi-temp paint, but it won't buy you much.  Then you're ready for a meal.  

Never hurts to start with chicken or hot dogs, just in case the meat has an unpleasant flavor, but it's not likely.  

This is not the recipe for some picture-perfect smoker, but I think it's your best low-cost bet to get years of usage from a bargain throwaway.


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## pignit (Dec 4, 2020)

Might try one of those hand held sand blaster guns if you have an air compressor. Those things do a great job and you have way more control of what you're taking off than with a grinder.


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## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

pignit said:


> Might try one of those hand held sand blaster guns if you have an air compressor. Those things do a great job and you have way more control of what you're taking off than with a grinder.



I thought about that but not sure it would get the job done.


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## QProject (Dec 4, 2020)

Had some good fortune!  The bolts came right off with a wrench!

Got most of the outside with the steel wheel.  The legs are a mess and I'm willing to bet the bolts for the wheels are just as loose.  

























I'm gonna think on how to go about the inside tonight I might try something less powerful like a chucked steel wheel in a screw gun.  It seems like to much rust to simply heat up oil and be done so I want to try and get as much off before trying that.  I think I'll want to prime and paint before involving any oil so I don't mess up the paint prep with it 

How about cleaning the outside before priming?  Acetone or alcohol?

I'm actually amazed at the improvement so far and can't wait to have this bad boy fired up blowin smoke!!!
Thanks


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## pignit (Dec 4, 2020)

QProject said:


> I thought about that but not sure it would get the job done.


I've used them for old car parts and they worked amazing. If you take your time with it you can probably get the rust off without eating into metal. It can get into the crooks and crannies too.


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## bill1 (Dec 5, 2020)

QProject said:


> ...It seems like to much rust to simply heat up oil and be done so I want to try and get as much off before trying that...


Agreed that once you start oiling you're somewhat committed to that approach.  The parts you've cleaned so far look strong and better for it.  And you seem a competent fellow who values discretion being the better part of valor.  Of course the lower parts will be weakest but you've got my blessing/support to "go to town" on the top and outward-facing parts and to use your best judgment on the rest.   
Good luck.


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## fullborebbq (Dec 5, 2020)

If you are using standard sand in a hand held sand blaster you NEED TO USE A RESPIRATOR!!!!! BAD things happen from sand blasting dust!!!!


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## HalfSmoked (Dec 5, 2020)

Thanks for the like QProject it is appreciated.

Looks like the project is coming along great.

Warren


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## kmmamm (Dec 5, 2020)

When dealing with scale rust, it is much easier and faster to use a needle scaler (available at pretty much any discount tool supplier) Save the grinder and sanding wheels for cleanup once the scale is off.  So far as surface prep on the outside surfaces,  acetone would be the preferred cleaner...it will cut grease/oil residue better and faster than alcohol.  If you do choose alcohol, be sure it is 100% denatured.  Cheaper rubbing alcohols often contain up to 50%  water....which will simply promote surface rust.


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## Cole Leffert (Dec 5, 2020)

Looking good!


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## QProject (Dec 5, 2020)

bill1 said:


> Agreed that once you start oiling you're somewhat committed to that approach.  The parts you've cleaned so far look strong and better for it.  And you seem a competent fellow who values discretion being the better part of valor.  Of course the lower parts will be weakest but you've got my blessing/support to "go to town" on the top and outward-facing parts and to use your best judgment on the rest.
> Good luck.



I'm going to grab a wire wheel for my screw gun and go low n slow.  Yes the lower already flaked quite a bit when I was removing ash and the leftover mess from the previous owner.

YES I'm kitted out in p100 mask, gloves, eyes and ears.  That sucker it fighting back at me throwing hellacious barbs off the wheel and as the handle off my 18v makita portable doesn't fit this hf POS, I've now been literally attacked to the ground on 3 occasions!!!  This thing is putting up one hell of a fight but this ol boy shall prevail! 

I went by o'reallys they didn't have high temp primer, only vht header paint?  What am I looking for?  Anyone have an exact product?  I read recommend ations for 2000 degree primer at auto parts store guess I'll head fer AutoZone...


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## QProject (Dec 5, 2020)

I bought Vht 2000 degree primer and rust-oleum 2000 degree flat black paint. 

Do I need to heat cure twice?  Once after priming and once after painting or just once at the end?

Where can I run lines for a waterproof inkbird probes?  Do I need to drill a hole?  I've only got one Thermometer hole on the top.  Should I get lid insulators?

Didn't get much done today.


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## chp (Dec 6, 2020)

QProject said:


> Had some good fortune!  The bolts came right off with a wrench!
> 
> Got most of the outside with the steel wheel.  The legs are a mess and I'm willing to bet the bolts for the wheels are just as loose.
> View attachment 473718
> ...


Looks like great progress! I was able to get to the rust starting with an angle grinder with a wire wheel, then switched to a drill and wire end brush to hit the tough to reach spots and finished up with a die grinder for the toughest spots. I avoided the chemical solutions, but media blasting would certainly get it all.


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## QProject (Dec 6, 2020)

chp said:


> Looks like great progress! I was able to get to the rust starting with an angle grinder with a wire wheel, then switched to a drill and wire end brush to hit the tough to reach spots and finished up with a die grinder for the toughest spots. I avoided the chemical solutions, but media blasting would certainly get it all.



I went at the inside of the cooker just the top half and sides and it wasnt anywhere near as bad as I thought.  

As for the bottoms of both the cooker and the firebox they are right clean them out.  The previous owner was even using the cooker for grilling but not too bad.  They never cleaned it out but it doesnt appear as old as I had thought.  \

Suggestions for curing the primer and paint?  

Also looking for ideas on a charcoal box or something to keep the wood off the bottom of the firebox as the grates were toast and got tossed in the trash?

Thanks everyone!  

I plan to get back at it tomorrow.  Go Chiefs!


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## chp (Dec 7, 2020)

QProject said:


> I went at the inside of the cooker just the top half and sides and it wasnt anywhere near as bad as I thought.
> 
> As for the bottoms of both the cooker and the firebox they are right clean them out.  The previous owner was even using the cooker for grilling but not too bad.  They never cleaned it out but it doesnt appear as old as I had thought.  \
> 
> ...


I’m no help on the paint, I oiled the outside of my project. The part for the firebox is typically just a piece of expanded metal cut to size.


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## bill1 (Dec 7, 2020)

QProject said:


> ...Also looking for ideas on a charcoal box or something to keep the wood off the bottom of the firebox as the grates were toast and got tossed in the trash?


Expanded metal is perfect but can get pricey.  If you get a lead on some that is a little larger grid than you prefer, you can stagger two pieces together to make a smaller opening and keep your coals from falling through too soon.  Hog rings work well for joining.  Or just cheap "hardware cloth" can be set on top of a too-coarse-grid option and replaced each half dozen cooks.  
Note some expanded steel is galvanized and hot coals will defnitely oxidize the zinc.  Many worry about that in their food so you might want to intentionally remove it in a hot fire beforehand and wirebrush afterwards.  With mask.  
Sometimes old cooking grids from another cast-off unit can be cut to fit.  Another (painful?) option is to re-purpose the outside shelves for charcoal grates and use some varnished wood for shelves? 
Are you only going to put fire in the firebox, so you only need a small piece, or do you want the option of putting direct heat in the cooking chamber like a conventional charcoal grill, which requires a much larger piece.  Do you need need new racks for your meat as well?


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## QProject (Dec 7, 2020)

bill1 said:


> Expanded metal is perfect but can get pricey.  If you get a lead on some that is a little larger grid than you prefer, you can stagger two pieces together to make a smaller opening and keep your coals from falling through too soon.  Hog rings work well for joining.  Or just cheap "hardware cloth" can be set on top of a too-coarse-grid option and replaced each half dozen cooks.
> Note some expanded steel is galvanized and hot coals will defnitely oxidize the zinc.  Many worry about that in their food so you might want to intentionally remove it in a hot fire beforehand and wirebrush afterwards.  With mask.
> Sometimes old cooking grids from another cast-off unit can be cut to fit.  Another (painful?) option is to re-purpose the outside shelves for charcoal grates and use some varnished wood for shelves?
> Are you only going to put fire in the firebox, so you only need a small piece, or do you want the option of putting direct heat in the cooking chamber like a conventional charcoal grill, which requires a much larger piece.  Do you need need new racks for your meat as well?



I greatly appreciate everyones input!

I got back at it again today and really got some work done.  I did a slight wheel grind on the insides, did the legs and supports.  Then I went back over everything one quick hit with the wheel.  Followed up with a wipe down with acetone and a cut up tshirt.  Applied the VHT 2k degree primer, 2 coats.  Painted Rustoleum hightemp flat black on both the cooker and fire box but still need to flip them over and get the ends that hook together.  I did prime those ends already just ran out of light and its supposed to be decent weather tonight.  Back at it tomorrow and hope to finish up the paint maybe get started on some curing.

Should I cure first or go ahead and oil up the inside and get going on seasoning?  Just charcoal or a mix?

I have racks for the cooking chamber but they are straight grates.  Not planning on direct heat for the cooking chamber but might look into having someone fab me a new setup with an upper rack like I saw at one site for the OK Joes highlander, but not yet.

I was looking at charcoal boxes seems like I could just put one in as it would keep everything up off the bottom of the fire box and they are 12x12 and like $30.  I seen a local metal distributor, metal by the foot, has expanded steel listed but doesnt say any details.  I believe they fabricate too but would need to call them.  I'm thinking the  charcoal box would get me started out.  Thoughts?

Thank you all!
QProject

Today's pics


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## uncle eddie (Dec 7, 2020)

Missed a spot - lol - just kidding.  Keep the pictures coming!


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## Winterrider (Dec 7, 2020)

Dang, looking good


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## HalfSmoked (Dec 8, 2020)

Coming along great. Might be a smoked Christmas turkey in your future.

Warren


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## Cole Leffert (Dec 8, 2020)

Looks great!!!


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## HalfSmoked (Dec 8, 2020)

Thanks for the QProject it is appreciated.

Warren


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## Heart of Dixie (Jan 14, 2021)

I bought the exact same unit from Academy Sports 16 years ago and still use it regularly.  Consider buying the 1.5" thick firebricks from Tractor Supply and just line the bottom of the FB. I put 3 across x 2 deep,then place a piece of 1/2" expanded metal on top of those using the edges for support. The 3/4" lets too many coals thru. This set-up gives me a 3"to 4' air gap between the top of the brick and the fire. I burn splits that are about 9 -10" long by 2-1/2 or 3 ".
Nice job on the restoration.


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