# MES popping ground fault outlet



## martok (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi all.  New guy here.  Just found this site and it is an absolute wealth of information!  Thanks to everyone for their contributions!

Just fired up my old 20070106 and after a minute or so, it pops the ground fault adapter.  Thought it might be a weak adapter so I tried another circuit and got the same results.  Don't quite understand what is happening.  If it were a solid short in the smoker the adapter should trip immediately, not after a minute or two.  Anyone else had this happen or know what the issue may be? 

Thanks in advance for any input.  Doesn't sound like Masterbuilt CS would be much help from reading other posts here, but probably will call them anyway.


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## mbogo (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi-

Sounds like moisture- Has the MES been sitting outside?  Check the element & make sure it is dry, if there is any moisture in the insulation around it's connections, that could do it. Put a lite bulb inside & close the vents for a couple hours, that should dry out any inside.

Good Luck!!

Mark


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## martok (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi Mark, thanks for the reply!  The MES has been kept inside my garage since new and never been in any rain.  I think I will pop the back off and check out the insulation and see what it is like.  Will let everyone know what I find.

Thanks again!

Tom


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## Bearcarver (Sep 9, 2013)

Are you using an extension cord??

Bear


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## martok (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi Bear, nope.  I won't use extensions on the smoker.  Been bit by that problem with other high current devices, but thanks for the tip.  And thanks for your service in 'Nam.  Former Army myself in the sixties but stateside.

Tom


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## Bearcarver (Sep 10, 2013)

martok said:


> Hi Bear, nope.  I won't use extensions on the smoker.  Been bit by that problem with other high current devices, but thanks for the tip.  And thanks for your service in 'Nam.  Former Army myself in the sixties but stateside.
> 
> Tom


And thank you too, Tom!!

Bear


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## martok (Sep 10, 2013)

Well folks, I drilled out all the pop rivets holding the back cover on and found that everything is pretty well covered with spray foam insulation.  Can't really see anything obvious.  No moisture at all.

I wonder if the controller could be causing this?  Anyone heard of this before?  My cousin has this model also and I could plug his controller into my smoker and see if that works, but I hate to toast his controller in the meantime!  At $66 or so, it isn't a cheap test as most electronics are not returnable.  If I hadn't just picked up the Masterbuilt cold smoke sideunit I might look for another brand smoker but after reading the reviews on the new Masterbuilts I'm not ready to run right out and buy one!  May just buy the same one I have for the $177 on Amazon and cut my losses.  At least I might have spare parts!

Ideas, opinions anyone?

Thanks all,

Tom


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## ted campbell (Sep 10, 2013)

I had a situation like this on my MES.  I ended up having to get a new control unit on the top of the smoker.  Some moisture had ended up in it and was basicaly creating a short.  There are other posts on this site about the issue.


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## waywardswede (Sep 10, 2013)

Martok

I used to be in the spa / hot tub business, and GFCI's were a constant issue.  We always had to use them, either directly in the application or in nearby fixtures.  And if they were in the application we were always close to their capacity, were they seem more likely to fault.  I have a couple of suggestions.  If any of these sound like they're out of your comfort zone I would strongly recommend getting an electrician in to help you out:

1) Make sure you do not have any loads downstream of the GFCI (wired through the back).

2) Make sure you have a good ground in the receptacle.  A pigtail to the box isn't good enough, make sure it's solid back to the source.

3) Check your wiring upstream of the GFCI.  If it comes directly from the circuit panel check your connections in the panel, they must be tight and secure, nothing loose or crimped.  If there is anything else on the same circuit check those.  I know it sounds daunting, but a loose connection upstream can give you headaches, too.

4) See if a different load will cause it to fault.  Try a heat gun, toaster, something else with about the same current draw.  I know you replaced it, but we used to see these run bad in batches.  Maybe QC is better now, but 15-20 years ago the receptacle type GFCIs were notorious for false faults.

Only after I did all of that would I consider working on the appliance itself.  I feel your pain, these things can be tough.  Good luck!


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## martok (Sep 10, 2013)

Hey Ted, I had the controller off and looked it over, no moisture was evident.  Did you actually see the moisture on/in yours?

Swede, I had just fired up mu MES side smoker unit and ran it for about 45 minutes in the same outlet.  Granted, the power draw is less than the smoker itself, but I would think that it would have been enough to trip the GFCI.  I think I will get my double hot plate and try that out and see what that does.  My garage is detatched from the house and has it's own circuit so I don't think the circuit is the issue, been wrong before!

Thanks all!

Tom


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## martok (Sep 10, 2013)

My hotplate with a 1000 watt and an 800 watt burner (both on at the same time)  didn't trip the GFCI.  Thinking I have to look deeper into the wiring and the element.  I haven't dug any of the insulation out of the way around the connection covers on the smoker backside and was wondering how the covers come off.  Are they pop off or ?  I did find and read the rewiring post and that sounds like to way it SHOULD have been built in the first place!  Kudo's to the author of that post!

Thanks again all!

Tom


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## waywardswede (Sep 10, 2013)

If you're running similar units and / or similar loads and don't have a problem with it faulting then you're back to a problem with the unit.  Sorry about the detour, but I've had so many problems with GFCIs false faulting that I always check those first.  Can't help you with your MES, but it sounds like you have a plan.

Good luck!


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## ryan in louisville (Sep 10, 2013)

A GFCI only trips based on the amount of current travelling thru the ground wire, measured in mA, not amps.  Running a larger load as a test doesn't prove anything except that it sounds as though the GFCI isn't ghost tripping on any load it sees.  If you were closer to me I would offer to bring over some equipment we have at work to measure the current on the ground wire.  If the MES is the only thing that trips that GFCI, there is something wrong.  Hopefully it is moisture you can get rid of.  If it isn't moisture, you might be stuck with a bad MES.  I wouldn't recommend moving it to a non-GFCI receptacle because it sounds like there is current on the ground wire.


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## martok (Sep 10, 2013)

Well Swede, Ryan, and everyone else, after getting the cover off the back side of the heat element and the connectors are like brand new with no corrosion or anything, I have decided to cut my losses.  I'm not going to start throwing parts at this thing.  I think I am going to pickup a 20070910 thru the site on Amazon.  At $177 that's about max on what I don't have for a budget (tough to live on social insecurity after losing my butt a few years back in the market screw job) and the new models seem to have their own issues.  I can still use my new side smoker, get free shipping, I have all my separate wireless temp probes, so it's all good.

I think I will remove the element if anyone might be looking for one as they are apparently no longer available.  If anyone might need anything drop me a PM and I can pull the parts for you.

Keep on smokin' and I'll be around from now on.  Will report on what I get and how it works.

Take care everyone!

Tom


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## mikea30 (Sep 10, 2013)

Before you buy a new unit and since you already have the back off, check the connections to the heating element. There should be a metal box toward the bottom of the unit in back where the electrical connections meet the heating element. Check these connections. Get to the point where you can pull the spade connector off the heating element lead. I have the newer MES smoker and they put an access panel in the back where these connections are. I had a similar GFI problem. I opened the access panel and looked at the connections and everything looked good. The problem is the connections has shrink tubing covering them. I carefully cut away the shrink tubing and one connection's plastic covering was black. I removed the plastic and cleaned the connections with sand paper, reconnected the wires and ran the unit for 10 hours afterwards.

Check those connections thoroughly. They are notorious for going bad.


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## martok (Sep 10, 2013)

Been there, done that, Mike.  My MES is an older one from 2004 and their isn't any shrink tubing or anything.  Just wiring crimped to the spade connedtors and they look brand new, not even discolored.  The spades were a bit loose so I took them off and crimped them a bit with a pliers and they are nice and tight now.  Made no difference and still tripped the GFCI.  Also removed and checked the ground wires at the element and at the main ground spot near the power cord.


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## Bearcarver (Sep 10, 2013)

martok said:


> Been there, done that, Mike.  My MES is an older one from 2004 and their isn't any shrink tubing or anything.  Just wiring crimped to the spade connedtors and they look brand new, not even discolored.  The spades were a bit loose so I took them off and crimped them a bit with a pliers and they are nice and tight now.  Made no difference and still tripped the GFCI.  Also removed and checked the ground wires at the element and at the main ground spot near the power cord.


Don't you have any buddies who have electrical testing equipment??

Could be something simple.

Hate to see you have to get another one!!

Unless yours is on it's last leg in other ways, being from 2004.

Bear


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## eman (Sep 10, 2013)

The MES doesn't need to be used on a GFCI circuit.  Try it on a regular 110v  outlet. If its a short it should trip there too. Usually if it's a problem w/ the element / wires it will quit heating. timer will still work but element doesn't heat


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## mikea30 (Sep 10, 2013)

I agree. You can remove the spades and connect them to a multimeter. Set the unit to call for heat. When the unit calls for heat, there should be 120v (AC) across the electrical connections. If there is 120v across the electrical connections, it sounds like the heating element is bad. If there isn't, then it could be something more complicated. It seemed there were more than a few heating element mods in the forums. You may be able to do this cheaply. Unless of course you want to get a new smoker. I'm always for getting a new toy.


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## martok (Sep 10, 2013)

Hi Guys, the element is heating up before the circuit trips, so it is getting power.  Have to leave the forum now, be back tomorrow.

As always, thanks so much for your assistance!

Tom


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## waywardswede (Sep 10, 2013)

Ah, may be a bad heating element. Again back to the old hot tub days, we had electric heating elements in those that would go bad over time. They would go one of two ways: they would either blow apart and fail completely, or they would get small cracks or fissures in them that would open up when they got hot that would cause them to trip the GFCI. 

Maybe the same is happening here. If it doesn't trip as soon as it powers up and only does after the element heats up it's possible you have a bad heating element. 

Just a guess from an armchair quarterback...


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## martok (Sep 11, 2013)

Good morning Smokers!  Here we are back at the think tank.  Swede, the element looks brand new when I had it out of the smoker yesterday and can't see anything out of the ordinary.  Looking up parts, an element is available for the 20070910 which is the improved model of the 0106.  I understand that the 0910 is 800 watts while the 0106 is 650 watts.  I wonder if the 0910 element could be used in mine?  Anyone tried this?  Wonder if it would work with the 0106 power board (the one on the bottom)?  I know the controller is the same.  Buying an element and controller would be over half the cost of the new 0910 smoker.  That's why I'm leaning towards the new unit.

Well, off to the Dr.'s office for more fun and enjoyment.  Back later.

Tom


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## palladini (Sep 11, 2013)

Hey there Martok, the best piece of equipment you can buy to diagnose this problem, is Multimeter.  These are the devices that can detect most any voltage draw, and continuity.  They are a very handy device to have around the house.  I own two of these; one is analog and the other, digital.  Once the GFI trips, I would check the end of the cord, see if there were any shorts.  Then got to the smoker and check everything there.













Digital-Multimeter-MY-63-.jpg



__ palladini
__ Sep 11, 2013


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## swmo (Sep 11, 2013)

Well as an electrician in may other life, before I retired, I can tell you that it takes very little to trip a GFCI. It trips because it sees more going in on the hot side than it sees coming out on the neutral. With your description it sounds like you have something kicking in late, but that is only from looking over your shoulder.

On my smoker I get the green light and then after I set the temp and time there is a slight pause before the red light shows heating has started.. You might use this to get a hint. I would watch these lights very close and see if the red light coming on trips the GFCI. You might have to extension cord it to a non GFCI and time the delay to know when it comes on. Just to be safe I would only touch the buttons when starting it and unplug it before you doing anything else, even though the leak could be very small.


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## Bearcarver (Sep 11, 2013)

Only thing I ever had that was similar was a big old portable Porter Cable Belt Sander.
Every time I used it I got shocked real good. I had my left hand on the front knob & my right hand on the back handle & trigger. Every time my left hand brushed against the metal next to the front knob, was when I get nailed.
I got tired of this & took it apart. I found that the last guy to put it back together pinched one of the wires between the two casing halves, charging up the whole outer shell. I just taped the wire up good & closed it up without pinching it.

It was still working good when I left there to start my own Cabinet Shop.


Bear


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## okieleo (Sep 12, 2013)

I dont know your exact situation but I know on my electric smoker it was drawing some decent amps (i was thinking 20 or 30 amps ). Might check out your homes circuit board and verify the outlet youre trying to run off has the amperage to run. I had to move my smoker from the backyard where my grill is to the garage area where I have the ability to run something with higher amps. I was popping my GFI in the backyard everytime I ran it so after 3 or 4 attempts I moved it to the garage area and havent had a problem since. I of course pull it outside my garage when in use and use a short heavy gauge extension cord. Hope this helps and good luck.


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## Bearcarver (Sep 12, 2013)

Holy Moly!!!!

If my MES was drawing 20 to 30 amps, I couldn't use it at my house.

Bear


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## okieleo (Sep 12, 2013)

Bearcarver said:


> Holy Moly!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I might be off on my numbers but I know it was pretty high.


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## martok (Sep 12, 2013)

Thanks again for the input everyone.  The outlet I am using is the same one I have used for my smoker for the last 6 years or so.  No changes to anything.

I decided to get drastic so I ran my AC directly to the element bypassing everything.  Heats for a bit longer than before and then pops the GFCI.  I either have a bad element or the power cord?  I think I am going to order the 20070910 element, wire it direct, and controll the temp using my PID I built to controll my lead melter that I use for casting bullets.  Very low cost fix and way more precise than the stock setup.  I have a remote wireless temp probe for the meat temp so pretty well covered.

Any commments or thoughts on this plan? 

Thanks,

Tom


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## Bearcarver (Sep 12, 2013)

martok said:


> Thanks again for the input everyone.  The outlet I am using is the same one I have used for my smoker for the last 6 years or so.  No changes to anything.
> 
> I decided to get drastic so I ran my AC directly to the element bypassing everything.  Heats for a bit longer than before and then pops the GFCI.  I either have a bad element or the power cord?  I think I am going to order the 20070910 element, wire it direct, and controll the temp using my PID I built to controll my lead melter that I use for casting bullets.  Very low cost fix and way more precise than the stock setup.  I have a remote wireless temp probe for the meat temp so pretty well covered.
> 
> ...


If that's what you do, I'd like to make one suggestion:

If you have a choice where to mount your PID sensor, I would mount it dead center (left to right) on the back wall, and about 2" below the second rack.

One of the reasons the MES digital read-out is so far from our Maverick readings is due to the place they put the MES sensor (as in nowhere near the meat).

Bear


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## martok (Sep 12, 2013)

Hey, thanks Bear!  That was going to be my next question if I go ahead with this.  I think I will pick up the thermocouple that Auberins has for smokers that mounts thru the wall and is insulated from the sheet metal temperature and the location you suggest makes perfect sense to me.  Although I would think that the temp might get a fair bit hotter at the top of the smoker, no?  I agree with the positioning of the factory sensor, just plain wrong place for it.

I ordered the heating element from Appliance Factory Parts about an hour ago.  Apparently, their parts ship directly from Masterbuilt.  Hope it is in stock.

More to come later.

Take care, all.

Tom


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## Bearcarver (Sep 12, 2013)

martok said:


> Hey, thanks Bear!  That was going to be my next question if I go ahead with this.  I think I will pick up the thermocouple that Auberins has for smokers that mounts thru the wall and is insulated from the sheet metal temperature and the location you suggest makes perfect sense to me.  *Although I would think that the temp might get a fair bit hotter at the top of the smoker, no? * I agree with the positioning of the factory sensor, just plain wrong place for it.
> 
> I ordered the heating element from Appliance Factory Parts about an hour ago.  Apparently, their parts ship directly from Masterbuilt.  Hope it is in stock.
> 
> ...


I thought that too, but believe it or not, I usually only use the top 2 racks, and the same stuff on #2 is done quicker than #1. Very strange!!

I always put the thinner pieces on the top, because of that.

Bear


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## martok (Sep 12, 2013)

Bearcarver said:


> I thought that too, but believe it or not, I usually only use the top 2 racks, and the same stuff on #2 is done quicker than #1. Very strange!!
> 
> I always put the thinner pieces on the top, because of that.
> 
> Bear


That is strange, no logical answer I can think of!  Good tip to know, Thanks!

Tom


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## swmo (Sep 13, 2013)

FYI. GFCI's aren't amperage sensitive. If any current follows the equipment ground and not the neutral they trip immediately. Elements are simple resistance heaters and no different then your lead pot in principle. You do want to be careful though, because while I don't know the differences, I suspect the lead pot element is capable of handling more heat than your smoker. That might be a problem for you, not knowing the limits.

If you have access to a meter you could set the smoker up with element disconnected and turn on the temperature and then check the voltage output on heating.


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## waywardswede (Sep 18, 2013)

Hey martok, how did you make out?  Are you up and running?


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## martok (Sep 18, 2013)

WaywardSwede said:


> Hey martok, how did you make out?  Are you up and running?


Hey Swede, still waiting on my new heating element I ordered.  Got my probe for my PID and waiting to install it along with the new element.  I looked that old element over with a microscope (not really) and I'll be darned if I can see any cracks or anything out of the ordinary.  Hope the new element does the trick as I have a pork belly waiting to become thick sliced, sugar cured bacon!  Along with the new MES side smoker, which works fantastic, I should be all set.  Now all I need is to win the lottery so I can afford to buy meat and goodies to smoke!!!

Stay tuned, if you hear a loud scream coming from the direction of Minnesota it's me if the GFCI still trips!

How's things going on everybody elses smokes?  Hope you are all doing well.

Later,

Tom


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## martok (Sep 19, 2013)

Well, my new heating element showed up today.  Installed the temperature probe, the element, and all is good!  Hooked up the PID, set the temp to 225 and turned her on.  Climbed up to 225 and held between 225 and 229 degrees.  This setup works fantastic!

So the bottom line was that the element was the culprit and the good part is that the new 800 watt element is a bolt in for the old 650 watt.  The smoker heats up much faster than the smaller element and I am impressed with it.  If this new element is compatible with the electronics in the Gen 1 MES 30 as built, I don't know, but it would be a great upgrade/replacement for all the older smokers out there.

So now I need to mount the side smoker and get a test smoke going on some jerky just to test how it acts.  It sure looks like a winner setup now!

Thanks very much for all the help along the way everyone!  Hope to contribute as much in return.

More later.

Tom


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## waywardswede (Sep 19, 2013)

That's great, glad to hear that you got her running! Make sure to post pictures of the jerky.


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## Bearcarver (Sep 20, 2013)

WaywardSwede said:


> That's great, glad to hear that you got her running! Make sure to post pictures of the jerky.


X 2

Bear


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## martok (Sep 20, 2013)

Hey Bear, just wanted to let you know that I did mount the temp probe below the second shelf where you suggested.  I am really liking this accurate temp control for a change, no more giant temp swings like before!  Now I hope my cooking is as good (or better) than before. 

My total cost, not including PID which i already had, was around $80 for the element and the probe.

Tom


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## Bearcarver (Sep 20, 2013)

martok said:


> Hey Bear, just wanted to let you know that I did mount the temp probe below the second shelf where you suggested.  I am really liking this accurate temp control for a change, no more giant temp swings like before!  Now I hope my cooking is as good (or better) than before.
> 
> My total cost, not including PID which i already had, was around $80 for the element and the probe.
> 
> Tom


Sounds Great !!!

Can't wait to see your results!!

Bear


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## jtav2002 (Sep 29, 2013)

Hello all. New here. I'm having a similar problem with a Masterbuilt smoker tripping a GFI and stumbled upon this thread. Only difference is my smoker is brand new and it's tripping when I'm just trying to do the initial "seasoning run." I am completely clueless when it comes to electrical so bare with me. I first had it plugged into an outlet and after about 20 minutes or so (had heated up to about 225 or so) and it tripped the button on a GFI outlet about 30 feet from the outlet I had this plugged into (on the inside of the back porch). Reset it and it tripped again after a few minutes. I moved it to the other side of the back of the house where my only other outdoor electrical outlet is. That is a GFI and when plugged into that it immediately trips it. Whereas the other outlet would run a bit before tripping a GFI downline a couple outlets. Any thoughts? Like I said it's a brand new just out of the box smoker.


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## martok (Sep 29, 2013)

Welcome to the forum!  Lots and lots of good info and help located here.

I think you just answered your own question.  In your post, you said that "about 30 feet from the outlet", which to me says that you are using a long extension cord.  If you are and it is a normal light duty variety cord, that's more than likely the cause.  If you had the smoker plugged directly into the outlet with no extension cord, then it is probably another issue.  I believe the  users manual states that you should not use an extension cord.

Did you use an extension?

Tom


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## boykjo (Sep 29, 2013)

First off welcome to SMF and were glad to have you aboard..... just a start.....Try using the smoker somewhere else with another power source with enough amperage supply to the outlet and see if you have the same problem. Are you using an extension cord?


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## jtav2002 (Sep 29, 2013)

Thanks for the response. I wasn't using an extension cord. I guess I worded that a little confusing! It was plugged directly into an outlet outside an enclosed back porch. On the inside of said porch there are 3 additional outlets, one of which is GFI. That's the one that eventually tripped. I guess all the other outlets are in line with that one? I then tried moving it to the the other side of the house in that back where my only other outdoor receptacle is and this is GFI and that one trips immediately. 

So trips immediately when plugged directly into a GFI and will run a bit and trip another GfI after a little while when plugged into a non GFI. Hopefully this is a more clear explanation.


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## boykjo (Sep 29, 2013)

you need more amps. What is your breaker rating. Is it 15, 20, 30


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## dcarch (Sep 29, 2013)

martok said:


> Welcome to the forum!  Lots and lots of good info and help located here.
> 
> I think you just answered your own question.  In your post, you said that "about 30 feet from the outlet", which to me says that you are using a long extension cord.  If you are and it is a normal light duty variety cord, that's more than likely the cause.  If you had the smoker plugged directly into the outlet with no extension cord, then it is probably another issue.  I believe the  users manual states that you should not use an extension cord.
> 
> ...


I don't think it is an extension cord issue. Extension cord itself cannot normally trip the ground circuit. It is probably a faulty equipment issue, and it can be dangerous.

If you have a Multi-meter (can be $5.00) or one of those neon light tester ($2.00?), you can immediately find out if the metal enclosure has an electrical leak to the ground. If so, do not use the unit, do not even plug it in an outlet, return the unit. 

At this point, wear rubber gloves and rubber shoes if you have to touch the unit and the unit is plugged in an outlet, no matter whether it is on or off.

Good luck.

dcarch


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## boykjo (Sep 29, 2013)

dcarch said:


> I don't think it is an extension cord issue. Extension cord itself cannot normally trip the ground circuit. It is probably a faulty equipment issue, and it can be dangerous.
> 
> If you have a Multi-meter (can be $5.00) or one of those neon light tester ($2.00?), you can immediately find out if the metal enclosure has an electrical leak to the ground. If so, do not use the unit, do not even plug it in an outlet, return the unit.
> 
> ...


whoa there.....   Lets find out whats wrong before making a decision......  GFI's will trip due to long extension chords

The GFI has a sensor inside that detects changes in current to the appliance that is connected to it (such as a toaster or blow dryer) by comparing the current flow to the appliance and the current flow from the appliance. If there is a potentially dangerous drop off in the current, then the GFI turns off all power by tripping a relay within it in less than one second. If a GFI turns off your appliance then you will need to unplug it, press the reset button and everything should be back to normal. A GFI outlet has two buttons:a test button and a reset button.

If a problem persists or you think something may be wrong with the electrical system in your home, then make sure to call an experienced electrician. If there is a serious problem with the affected circuit and the GFI will not reset, this is a sure sign to call an electrician to help diagnose the problem. *In short: GFI outlets turn the power off before a shock can occur* so you wont get shocked.


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## dcarch (Sep 29, 2013)

boykjo said:


> whoa there.....   Lets find out whats wrong before making a decision......  GFI's will trip due to long extension chords
> 
> The GFI has a sensor inside that detects changes in current to the appliance that is connected to it (such as a toaster or blow dryer) by comparing the current flow to the appliance and the current flow from the appliance. If there is a potentially dangerous drop off in the current, then the GFI turns off all power by tripping a relay within it in less than one second. If a GFI turns off your appliance then you will need to unplug it, press the reset button and everything should be back to normal. A GFI outlet has two buttons:a test button and a reset button.
> 
> If a problem persists or you think something may be wrong with the electrical system in your home, then make sure to call an experienced electrician. If there is a serious problem with the affected circuit and the GFI will not reset, this is a sure sign to call an electrician to help diagnose the problem. *In short: GFI outlets turn the power off before a shock can occur* so you wont get shocked.


I would not say I am the expert on this topic. Far from it, I am no more than a weekend tinkerer. Just thinking out loud here, and trying to learn something.

I can be wrong about this. Assuming the extension cord is good, itself is not leaking to the ground wire. And an electrical device is plugged into it, wouldn’t the incoming and outgoing current always be equal and balanced by definition, no matter how long the cord is? Therefore can it cause the tripping of the DFCI outlet?

Perhaps the following conditions can cause a good extension cord to trip the GFCI outlet, may be more, I am not sure:

1. An electrical storm can induce electric charges in anything conductive, including a long extension cord.

2. The electrical device plugged in has inside an inductive load (motor, transformer, etc)  that can backflow an magnetically induced current during start up and shutting off of the coils.

3. The electrical device has inside an capacitive load (induction motor start capacitor, etc)  that can backflow stored electric current during start up and shutting off of the capacitor. Those who have done video work knows there can be enough power left in the fly-back transformer to kill you even the unit it totally unplugged from the outlet.

4. The heating element can generate a magnetic field and induces electric current in metallic objects near it similar to a transformer. or an induction cook top.

5. Someone in the area is using Walkie-Talkies. You are not allowed to transmit near a blasting zone, for instance. I wonder about those wireless thermometers. If the wave length of transmission is a multiple of the extension cord length, 1/4 wave, 1/2 wave, full wave, etc. a weak current or "Standing Wave" can be induced by resonance because the cord will act as an antenna. All you need is a few milli-amps to trip a GFCI outlet.

In any case, it is very important to be safe. Wear rubber gloves and rubber shoes and have the equipment thoroughly tested. Never play with electric power unless you are absolutely experienced in what you are doing. Never try something new because you just saw a DIY video on youtube.

dcarch


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## old sarge (Sep 29, 2013)

Over on another MES thread, some users were reporting getting shocked by their smokers. So you should consider that there is a possible short in the smoker, even if it is new. Also, while GFCIs have been known to go bad and trip for no particular reason, I would suspect the smoker.

Take a toaster oven, or electric skillet if you have one and plug it (or both) into the outlets you have been using.  Fire it up and see what happens.  I would put water in the skillet just to give the heat somewhere to go.  Alternately, if you have a high amp appliance (120v) that is close to the MES amp, plug that in.  If nothing trips, call MES.  But be safe.  Wearing rubber gloves and boots as dcarch mentioned is of paramount importance.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/148695/mes-shocking-me

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/109307/masterbuilt-40-shocks

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/146121/new-style-mes-shocking


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## jtav2002 (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks for the input so far. I'll have to try some of the suggestions when I get a chance. A co-worker in my departments husband is an electrician so I'm gonna have her run it by him and see what he thinks as well.

Also if it helps this is the cheaper analog version and not digital. It seems pretty simple and doesn't appear to really have much if any wiring on the inside. Just the heating element and then the plug/controller that plugs in on the outside.


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## old sarge (Sep 30, 2013)

It really doesn't matter whether it is digital or analog.  A problem is a problem. I sincerely hope it is not with your home wiring system.  Good luck.


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## dcarch (Sep 30, 2013)

old sarge said:


> ------------------------  A problem is a problem. I sincerely hope it is not with your home wiring system.  Good luck.


For that you can get a little circuit tester. I think Dave showed it in one of the threads Old sarge linked above.

It is a little plug-in thing that will show you if your house wiring is proper. The tester thing is about $5.00 from HD or Radio Shack.

dcarch


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## dcarch (Sep 30, 2013)

jtav2002 said:


> Thanks for the input so far. I'll have to try some of the suggestions when I get a chance. A co-worker in my departments husband is an electrician so I'm gonna have her run it by him and see what he thinks as well.
> 
> Also if it helps this is the cheaper analog version and not digital. It seems pretty simple and doesn't appear to really have much if any wiring on the inside. Just the heating element and then the plug/controller that plugs in on the outside.


Carbon is a very good electrical conductor. Unplug the unit and check to see if you have some carbon built-up around electrical components.

dcarch


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## mikea30 (Oct 2, 2013)

Jtav, I had a similar problem early on. Not as early as you but still early on. You can check out a message I posted here http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/147519/masterbuilt-qa-issues/20#post_1055434 . Mine started tripping after two smokes (total runtime 13-15 hours). It was frustrating to say the least. I was able to locate and rectify the issue. Please let me know if this helps.


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## jerry park (Nov 24, 2015)

My 2 year old MES 30" (Model 20070312) just started popping it's GFCI circuit (as soon as I would hear the relay snap on). I tried other GFCI sockets but no luck. I currently (hee-hee) have it plugged into a non-GFCI socket. It started up and is working as normal. I set to run at 250 degrees for an hour. It reached temp in 15 minutes hovering between 259 and 245 according to the sensor. I'll let it run the full hour with the vent wide opens to liberate any moisture inside and will leave the door full open to cool and let the moisture escape. Once it is cool I will try it on a GCFI again and report the results. 15 more minutes to go on the timer...


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## jerry park (Nov 24, 2015)

Well, It ran at 250 for a full hour without a hitch. I turned it off and opened the door let it cool to ambient temp (about 55 deg). Plugged it back into a GFCI socket and it tripped at just under 70 degrees. Any accumulated moisture inside should have cooked off during the high temp run. It seems to work just fine if it is not on a GFCI protected circuit. I have checked the socket with one of those circuit testers and it is wired correctly. My smoker is new enough that it has the access panel in the back. I might test the circuits at a later date.


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