# How to replace Masterbuilt Electric Smoker controller



## Riscvul (Dec 23, 2019)

Hello,

I recently got a Masterbuilt smoker someone had discarded and have been enjoying figuring out how to smoke.

However as would be expected it was discarded for a reason. The controller on the unit is pretty terrible and didn't work when I got it, I was able to get it going with a bit of electrical work but its trying hard to die completely every time I use it. On top of that it has no display only one temp knob and doesn't seem to get the element to heat as much as I would expect. Luckily the element appears to be fine from the resistance tests I've done.

I would like to replace it before it completely fries but I don't know how I can do that.

I've read on this forum about PID controllers but being so new to this I don't quite get it. I need something that will connect directly to the element as the current controller is almost toast, but the PID controllers I've looked at look like you plug the smoker into them instead.

tl;dr

Help me understand what I need to do to replace the controller on my Masterbuilt smoker.


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## Slow42 (Dec 23, 2019)

Riscvul  I was in the same situation but mine was not working at all including the heating element.  All the wires had been cut off. I went directly to the heating element, new old one, with the wires from a PID. Looks complicated but it very easy to do. There are a couple of very smart members that always jump in and help with this type of setup. All you need is a PID controller and a few other parts. You can get all the parts from Amazon or Auber electronics.  Should not cost more that $30.00.  If you build one into a box you can add some temperature probes in addition to the PID controller.  
,


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## dr k (Dec 23, 2019)

If your controller works at full power keep it set on full and plug it into the PID and let the PID controller switch off and on. It's like If you get a 12 guage extension cord without the female end and terminate it to the legs on the element and ground the green to a screw on the back of the chasis. Plug into the PID.


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## Riscvul (Dec 23, 2019)

> If your controller works at full power keep it set on full and plug it into the PID and let the PID controller switch off and on



Unfortunately it only barely works there is some kind of electrical problem in the controller causing shorts, burning wires and generally being a hazard. It has to be replaced by an OEM or improved controller.



> Looks complicated but it very easy to do. There are a couple of very smart members that always jump in and help with this type of setup. All you need is a PID controller and a few other parts. You can get all the parts from Amazon or Auber electronics.



I've heard a lot about Auber but didn't know what to get. I tried hunting for a relevant thread in the forums but apparently couldn't find the right search terms. Do you know where I can go to get more info on this? I have enough electrical knowledge to be dangerous but parts and setup wise I'm lost.


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## dr k (Dec 23, 2019)

If the element has the correct ohms for the watts, amps and volts then one probe on an element electrical contact leg and the other anywhere else, on the chassis and outer jacket without continuity should be good and no shorting. Since the legs of the element are probably round so no lugs to attach 

 daveomak
 mentioned to solder the wires directly to the legs. I brought this up on FB and a couple people .entioned not to which I don't know why. So if electricians or electrical engineers would chime in on yes or no soldering the wires directly to the element contacts that would  be great because I'd like to know why not if it's not recommended.  If you have a 1,500 watt element then 1,500watts/120vac=12.5amps and 120vac/12.5 amps=9.6 ohms.


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## Slow42 (Dec 23, 2019)

Risczul, tallbm, a member, is a expert with this and will help you with what you need. You just have to decide on a course of action. Attempt a fix or all new setup.  I would not try and fix what you have start from scratch. Not sure how you search but there’s a lot here, pictures included, on what your trying to do. Auber is much more expensive than Amazon but their products are very good. Inkbird and Mypin PIDS are both on Amazon. What your trying to do is very easy.  
Think of what you have as just a box. If the heating element is good more the better. Go from there.
PM tallbm if that is still available here.


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## Winterrider (Dec 23, 2019)

The Auber PID is the real McCoy.  
dr k &  tallbm  will get you dialed in if you allow them to, if that's the route you choose.


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## Winterrider (Dec 23, 2019)

This may answer some of your questions 


			Search results for query: Mes rewire


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## cmayna (Dec 23, 2019)

Winterrider said:


> The Auber PID is the real McCoy.
> dr k &  tallbm  will get you dialed in if you allow them to, if that's the route you choose.



I got my used MES40 with the controller not working at all.   I simply hard wire the heating element of the smoker to a cord that plugs directly into the Auber PID unit.  Program the PID and off I've gone for 3 + years now.   So simple.


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## chopsaw (Dec 23, 2019)

dr k said:


> I'd like to know why not if it's not recommended.


That's the best connection you could have . Less resistance , less heat , less failure  ( if any )


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## chopsaw (Dec 23, 2019)

Winterrider gave you some great reading above , so look thru that stuff . 
Here's the link of Tallbm's how to .  Doing it this way allows the safety limit switch to stay in the circuit  and shut the power down should the temps get to high for some reason . 





						MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!
					

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES.  I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance.  Well here goes.  Disclaimer:  When messing with electrical equipment...




					www.smokingmeatforums.com


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## dr k (Dec 24, 2019)

chopsaw said:


> That's the best connection you could have . Less resistance , less heat , less failure  ( if any )


That's exactly what I thought, then the ojection on FB.  The link below is about the male spade connector that was welded to the element broke off and the controversy with silver solder and reattaching it. 








						Could use some tips on repairing a broken heating element terminal
					

Today was a really good day. I finally snagged a Faema Family, that I'd been lusting after for not an inconsiderable amount of time. The latter half of the day veered sharply into my own private hell however, when I discovered while disassembling the machine (to clean the boiler) that somehow...




					www.home-barista.com


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## chopsaw (Dec 24, 2019)

dr k said:


> male spade connector that was welded to the element broke off and the controversy with silver solder and reattaching it.


Kurt that might be a different situation if the spade is broke off . I just replaced the element in my oven , they have a ceramic insulator at the base of the terminal . 
I was thinking tin / solder right to an existing spade connection .


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## dr k (Dec 24, 2019)

chopsaw said:


> Winterrider gave you some great reading above , so look thru that stuff .
> Here's the link of Tallbm's how to .  Doing it this way allows the safety limit switch to stay in the circuit  and shut the power down should the temps get to high for some reason .
> 
> 
> ...


Without pics and with a dial/rheostat controller I'm under the impression it's an analog, no snap disc safety sensor,  hollow walled insulated, 1,500 watt element MB smoker. Hopefully there's a plate on the back of the smoker with wattage and model #.


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## dr k (Dec 24, 2019)

chopsaw said:


> Kurt that might be a different situation if the spade is broke off . I just replaced the element in my oven , they have a ceramic insulator at the base of the terminal .
> I was thinking tin / solder right to an existing spade connection .


Ok. Since the spade that broke off is 1/4" and I've seen 1/4" of wire sticking out of my element ceramic insulation that was originally welded to the spade, if you soldered 12 gauge  electrical wire to the element wire that's the same as soldering to the spade less a fraction of an inch from the spade that broke off. The link above was maybe a concern about how much conductive heat travels toward the terminals. I have very old 100% tin resin core solder I used to solder the high temp nickle plated steel lugs to the electrical supply wires I wonder if soldering to the the lugs and the joints between the electrical wire and element wire is the controversy for heat dissipation vs soldering directly to the element in the link I posted above.


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## chopsaw (Dec 24, 2019)

dr k said:


> I wonder if soldering to the the lugs and the joints between the electrical wire and element wire is the controversy for heat dissipation vs soldering directly to the element in the link I posted above.


I don't know , I took it as a " grounding out " thing . Insulating from a short , not heat . Just my thoughts .


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