# Digital temp and propane conversion



## mw-smoke

Heya folks - first time poster here and I need some help. 

I started another project and this time it's converting a vertical smoker to propane. Everything I've done up to this point has been coal and wood. 

I've been doing lots of reading but mostly I've been having to piece through threads and I'm just not sure that I'm doing things right.

The goal is to attach the Bradley smoke generator to the vertical box. 

Temperature controls would be handled with a AGPtek universal digital PID temperature control.

And gas control would be handled with a Honeywell VR8200A2132.

Any advice on this setup?


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## flash

I converted an old Great Outdoor Smokey Mountain Charcoal smoker













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__ flash
__ Aug 17, 2013






These are much heavier and better made than the Propane models that GOSM. I finally decided to purchase a single burner propane plate and fed it thru the side vent and have it rested at the bottom of smoker.













Setup002.jpg



__ flash
__ Jan 26, 2014






I don't use the pan with sand anymore, just rest the can holding wood and charcoal right on the burner. I did need to replace the regulator with a 10 psi model from a turkey fryer. Now I can get over 300º in this conversion.


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## mw-smoke

Hiya Flash - that's really nice looking! 

Was the sand for holding in the heat? Did you add any water to the sand?


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## flash

mw-smoke said:


> Hiya Flash - that's really nice looking!
> 
> Was the sand for holding in the heat? Did you add any water to the sand?


 No, I had the idea that the wood may catch fire too quick if I rested the can down on the burner directly, so used the plate and added dampen sand as a buffer. Really all I had to do was close off the vents more and that stopped the wood from catching fire.

As to the water pan, it is still used and I use either Playbox Sand or Water depending on conditions.


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## wolfman1955

mw-smoke said:


> Heya folks - first time poster here and I need some help.
> 
> 
> I started another project and this time it's converting a vertical smoker to propane. Everything I've done up to this point has been coal and wood.
> 
> 
> I've been doing lots of reading but mostly I've been having to piece through threads and I'm just not sure that I'm doing things right.
> 
> 
> The goal is to attach the Bradley smoke generator to the vertical box.
> 
> 
> Temperature controls would be handled with a AGPtek universal digital PID temperature control.
> 
> 
> And gas control would be handled with a Honeywell VR8200A2132.
> 
> 
> Any advice on this setup?



Good mornin mw-smoke. I may be wrong but it apears that the valve you have listed is not a control valve to adjust your heat, but a safety shut off valve.
If the pilot light goes out on a furnace or hot water tank the safety valve closes to stop all gas to the burner.


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## wolfman1955

I also looked at the PID controller in your post and here are the spec's for it:

Compare Price and Reviews of AGPtek[emoji]174[/emoji] Universal Digital PID Temperature Controller RNR Control Out Dual display For Fahrenheit(F) and Celsius(C).

Specifications 
Display: Dual display for Fahrenheit(F) and Celsius(C) 
Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal)

Main output: Relay,Normal open, AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A COS¦Õ =1

PID cooling/heating control( can choose normal alarm output by software) 
Alarm Output: 1 RELAY: capacity AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A 
7 different Dual Output combinations with: 
Accuracy: 0.2% 
Input: Thermo Resistor: PT100, Cu50 
Thermocouple: J,S,K,E,Wre3 ~ Wre25 
Dimension: DIN: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm) 
Weight: about 150g 
Individually programmable PID control parameters. 
P, I, d, controlling period, digital filter coefficient, and more¡­ (for control theory experts only) 

SSR control ready to connect external Solid State Relay to handle High current. Applications. 


This is basicly an on/off controller that people are using for controlling tempetures in electric smokers. 
I own a Smoke Hollow Pro 44" gasser and have researched changing it over to PID control, I have not found a cost effective way to do that.
Maybe someone on here has and would like to give us some more insight as to this mod.


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## smokenado

I converted this old New Braunsfel to propane using Turkey Fryer burner but like you I'm trying to find a PID controller and valve to work together to control the temperature.













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__ smokenado
__ Oct 6, 2013


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## wolfman1955

Good mornin smoke, I work as an Instrument Tech. I deal with temperature and pressure control daily, mostly calibration of the instruments involved in these control loops. The problem with controling the temperature in a gasser with PID is that you have to have an anilog output PID controler going to an anilog control valve. Neither of witch are cheap. You would also have to have some sort of safety shut off incase the flame failed.
I have read where people have converted propane kitchen oven controls over to there gas smoker, but they are not true PID control they are on/off with safety shut off. I supose this would work ok if like your kitchen oven your smoker was very well insulated to eliminate constant temperature swings and you had new enough equipment so that you would have electronic ignition for your burner. I don't think you could keep the old pilot light type, pilot burning outside in the wind.


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## smokenado

Wolfman1955 said:


> Good mornin smoke, I work as an Instrument Tech. I deal with temperature and pressure control daily, mostly calibration of the instruments involved in these control loops. The problem with controling the temperature in a gasser with PID is that you have to have an anilog output PID controler going to an anilog control valve. Neither of witch are cheap. You would also have to have some sort of safety shut off incase the flame failed.
> I have read where people have converted propane kitchen oven controls over to there gas smoker, but they are not true PID control they are on/off with safety shut off. I supose this would work ok if like your kitchen oven your smoker was very well insulated to eliminate constant temperature swings and you had new enough equipment so that you would have electronic ignition for your burner. I don't think you could keep the old pilot light type, pilot burning outside in the wind.



Thanks for the info I actually have an analog controller left over from a previous project that has a ton of parameters that can be set. I was thinking that an actuated ball valve could be pulsed by the controller using the thermocouple as the PV as long as it was a 4-20mA probe but I need to locate an actuated ball valve that can be used for gas.


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## wolfman1955

smokenado said:


> Thanks for the info I actually have an analog controller left over from a previous project that has a ton of parameters that can be set. I was thinking that an actuated ball valve could be pulsed by the controller using the thermocouple as the PV as long as it was a 4-20mA probe but I need to locate an actuated ball valve that can be used for gas.



You may want to go with what is called a V-PORT ball valve, They are capablbe of alot finer adjustment that would be needed for control of gas.


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## mw-smoke

Heya guys, I didn't know I had any replies on here until I came back to give an update. 

Well, after reading ya'lls advice, I'm hoping that I didn't dig myself into a hole.

I got the parts put together and here is what things are looking like now:













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__ mw-smoke
__ Feb 2, 2014


















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__ mw-smoke
__ Feb 2, 2014


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## mw-smoke

And the inside:












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__ Feb 2, 2014






Just the controller valve and burner:












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__ Feb 2, 2014


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## mw-smoke

And the PID:












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__ Feb 2, 2014


















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__ mw-smoke
__ Feb 2, 2014






Only problem so far is that I'm not sure how to setup the PID. The temperature readings are correct. 

I noticed that depending on how quickly the temperature drops, the PID will switch the relay on and off.

It has an auto-set feature on it. When it's turned on, push a button, and it will ready how quickly it heats up and cools down, then adjusts itself to switch the relay on and off. 

But the only problem is that I'm lot seeing any voltage coming from the leads for the relay. I have the  voltmeter hooked up, but nothing shows up even though I can hear the relay click on and off.

So I have to figure how how to get that going. Then attach it to the valve controller and see if it switches on and off correctly.


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## wolfman1955

Mornin mw-smoke, I did a little research on your components and this is what I found:
From the honeywell site:


VR8200A2132/U
24 Vac, Standard Opening, Standing Pilot Gas Valve with 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. inlet\outlet


Find Equivalent or Replacement Products.






Product InfoLiteratureAccessories & Replacement PartsOverview
Gas valves for use in 24 Vac, gas-fired, standing pilot appliances with capacities from 20 to 200 cfh. 

Features

•Gas valves include manual valve, two automatic operators, servo pressure regulator and pilot adjustment.
•Compact size.
•Provide two automatic valves.
•Solenoid-operated first automatic valve opens on thermostat call for heat; closes when call for heat ends.
•Diaphragm-operated second automatic valve opens under control of regulator; closes if gas or power supply is interrupted.
•Meet codes requiring dual safety shutoff.
•Natural to LP and LP to Natural conversion kits available for standard and slow opening gas valves.
•LITE-RITE (OFF-PILOT-ON) lighting sequence.
•All adjustments, wiring connections and pilot outlet are accessible from top of control.
•Adjustable servo regulator effectively maintains almost constant gas output pressure under wide fluctuations in gas supply pressure.
•Compatible with ECO connector.

From this I interpret you need 24Vac to open the main gas suply from this valve to your burner. From your picture I believe you will need to move the pilot light assembly so the burner is not between the pilot flame and the pilot flame capillary sensor.

From what i could find on your controller:

Display: Dual display for Fahrenheit (F) and Celsius (C)
•Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal)
•Main Output: Relay,Normal open, AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A COSφ=1
• PID cooling/heating control( can choose normal alarm output by software)
•Alarm Output: 1 RELAY: capacity AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A
• 7 different Dual Output combinations with: high / low / high deviation / low deviation /interval / out of interval / breakage alarm
•Accuracy: 0.3%
•Input: Thermo Resistor: PT100, Cu50
•Thermocouple: J,S,K,E,Wre3 ~ Wre25
•Dimension: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm)
•Weight: about 150g
•Individually programmable PID control parameters.
 P, I, d, controlling period, digital filter coefficient, and more… (for control theory experts only)
•SSR control ready to connect 
external Solid State Relay to handle High current. Applications.
•Compact design:
 DIN 1/16, great form-factor to be included/build-in to your product.

If you look at the Main Output it is a relay it is a Normal open relay{a relay is nothing more than a switch}. I am very sure that this controller does not suply power to this relay and that it will require external power suplied to terminal 3 and out terminal 4. 

That being said your control valve operates on 24Vac you are going to need a 120Vac to 24Vac stepdown transformer. I saw one on amazon for $25 but you should be able to get one localy at any HVAC parts suply. You would suply 120Vac to the transformer and then run one side of the transformer out to terminal 3 then terminal 4 would wire to your gas valve the other lead from the transformer would wire straight to the gas valve.

.


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## wolfman1955

Just thought of someting else!! I hope you dont run into a problem with the wind blowing out the pilot light! You might have to come up with some kind of sheilding to keep the wind away from your burner assembly and still have enough oxygen for combustion. Just a thought! You can always try it out and add the shielding later if needed.


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## mw-smoke

Thanks so much Wolfman!

I need to go cancel some parts ordering real quick.

I thought for sure it'd be a DC and not an AC, so I ordered a SSR for DC and a 110v AC -> 24V DC in-line adapter.


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## wolfman1955

Had another thought! You need to have your original pressure regulator between your gas tank and your new gas valve!!! It looks like you just unhooked the burner end of your suply hose from the burner and hooked it up to your gas valve. That is the corect way. Just wanted to make sure gas is still regulated!!


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## mw-smoke

There is a pressure regulator on the bottle.

I thought about putting in an extra pressure valve after the controller to fine tune it. 

I just have to find one that will fit, and I couldn't find one at the local hardware stores.


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## wolfman1955

mw-smoke evadently this mod has me hooked cause i just keep thinking about it! I am not sure that your pilot light is going to work! If the pilot light assembly you bought is for natural gas then the orifice in it will be to large for LP, and will need replaced. If it is for natural gas you could probably find a replacement at your local HVAC parts suply.


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## wolfman1955

mw-smoke said:


> There is a pressure regulator on the bottle.
> 
> 
> I thought about putting in an extra pressure valve after the controller to fine tune it.
> 
> 
> I just have to find one that will fit, and I couldn't find one at the local hardware stores.



I dont think you need another pressure regulator. You might install a needle valve  to regulate the gas flow because the way it is now you are running at full flow. I think you should be able to get a needle valve at lowes or menards or home depot.


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## wolfman1955

Wolfman1955 said:


> mw-smoke said:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a pressure regulator on the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about putting in an extra pressure valve after the controller to fine tune it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just have to find one that will fit, and I couldn't find one at the local hardware stores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think you need another pressure regulator. You might install a needle valve  to regulate the gas flow because the way it is now you are running at full flow. I think you should be able to get a needle valve at lowes or menards or home depot.
Click to expand...


Just thought you still have the original control vales for the smoker you could plumb it up using it instead of a needle valve because that is what it is a needle valve.


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## mw-smoke

No worries. The controller came with a NG to LP conversion and I've already put it in. I just have to adjust the pilot when everything is going.


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## wolfman1955

Sounds like everything is on the right track let us know how the trial burn goes!!!


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## mw-smoke

I've got all the parts finally and started hooking it all up, but the PID has me flummoxed.

The SSR doesn't light up at all, but I can hear the click inside the PID when the "out" light turns on.

I'm going to throw up a bunch of pics so hopefully someone will spot something wrong:













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The manual:













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## wolfman1955

Morning mw-smoke, From what I can tell it seems that you have the PID set AL1 = 100deg. AL1 is the temp. that AL1 activates, given that AL1 relay is a normaly open contact that means that when it is in alarm it will close the switch between terminals 5&6.
 The next setting An 1(cant make the symbol here) is set to 2. According to the instructions a set point of 2 (absolute value hi) in An1  means that AL1 will activate when the temp. goes above the absolute value that you enter in AL1. AL1 would close the relay terninals 5&6
 The alarm function on this controller has nothing to do with the front panel setpoint.

It looks like all of the paramiters in the controller are set corectly if you have a type K thermocouple that is. 
From the wireing schematic it apears that terminals 3&4 are the controller terminals and with the C t L paramiter in the controller set to 001 like you have it for SSR, it apears that the controller should power terminals 3&4 .
 With the set point on the front of the controller set above the temp, of the probe  use a multimeter to determin if terminals 3&4 have any  voltage. Your SSR requires 3-32 DC volts to change states to suply your gas valve voltage. If there is voltage on 3&4 is it over 3 DC volts if so then check the terminals on the SSR if there is DC voltage on the SSR then check continuity on the gas valve terninals of the SSR. If you have DC voltage to the SSR and no continuity on the gas valve terninals then your SSR is bad.


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## wolfman1955

If you have voltage at the SSR remember ti is polarity sensitive #3 terminal on PID goes to positive on SSR


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## mw-smoke

Thanks a bunch wolf man. I really appreciate all you've done to help me. 

I have a question: should I just hook the connections up to 5&6 and not worry about 3&4? If so, then I'm confused about what 3&4 are used for.

Thanks!


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## mw-smoke

Multimeter isn't reading anything from 3&4: 













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__ mw-smoke
__ Feb 9, 2014


















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__ mw-smoke
__ Feb 9, 2014


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## mw-smoke

Got it!   :sausage:

I was scratching my about the lack of voltage, so I was Googling all over and found a thread where someone says the TA4-RNR is hard wired as a relay and can't be turned off or on through the configuration menu.

So I take the SSR out of the loop, wire up the 24vAC to pin 3 on the PID, and wire pin 4 to the controller valve. Plug it in, the PID goes through the boot-up screens and then - CLUNK - the solenoid on the controller valve is tripped. 

And man, that thing is loud.

There's also a buzzing sound from it, so I hope that's not a bad thing.

I put the PID into auto-tune and it starts working right away. 

Now I gotta just tighten up everything, break it in, and start smoking! :grilling_smilie:


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## wolfman1955

GREAT glad u got it!!! My only concern with running the way you have it is your Main out put relay is only rated for 3 amps. Look on the selonoid on your gas valve to see if it has an amp rating on it. Just dont want you to burn up your relay.


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## mw-smoke

Thanks woodman, I'll look for it.

I tested it out with the LP hooked up and it's all working, but I couldn't figure out how to control the duration of the burn.

After auto tuning, when the temperature drops and the PID starts to turn on the gas, it switches on and off so fast that the flow of gas isn't long enough to catch light. 

So I need to manually set the duration.


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## wolfman1955

I know very little about PID control. You might try putting some kind of value in the D peramiter instead of off to see if that helps. If you deside to run this controller in ON/OFF mode then i can help you out.


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## mw-smoke

What would be the on/off mode?


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## wolfman1955

In ON/OFF mode you would turn paramiter P to OFF. then the HYS paramiter controls the out put relay. A value of 1 in HYS means that the relay will close @ 1 deg. below set point and it will open @ 1 deg. above set point in other words, set point = 100 burner on @ 99 burner off @ 101 you would have a temp swing of about 3 deg. A value of 2 in HYS would give you a temp swing of about 5 deg.


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## wolfman1955

You could then use a needle valve in your burnner gas suply to control how fast or slow that the smoker would gain temp. thus controlling how often the controller relay switches.


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## mw-smoke

Oh, this is interesting and it sounds like the way to go. 

How do I turn off the P?


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## wolfman1955

not 100% sure on your controller but the ones i have messed with you Go through the peramiters just like when you took all of the pictures, when you get to the P paramiter press either the up or down button till green displat says off then you would probably hit the set button 1 or 2 times to save the changes. You can also change the HYS setting the same way.


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## mw-smoke

Gotcha.

I'm going to give it a try when I get home and I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## wolfman1955

Let me know how it works out. I will probably be back on line later this evening.


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## mw-smoke

I turned off the P parameter and adjusted the HYS to 5. 

I tested without the LP hooked up and it seems to work just like I want. 

I can't wait to give this a go!


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## wolfman1955

Great!! Glad it works like you want! With 5 in HYS you will have about a 10 deg. swing from set point if you are ok with that,cool. If its to much then you can always change it to a lower number. 
I am real interested in how this control will work at lower set points, say 100 or 120. When you get it hooked up could you try the lower set points and let me know how it works out.


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## mw-smoke

I tested everything out in 10F weather, and its working great but with one problem: the gas regulator on the propane tank keeps shutting off. 

I think the problem is the gas pressure. I've got a 20lb LP bottle attached, and I have to barely turn it on or I've got a flamethrower. 

So with the setup like it is, I think that I need a way to open the LP regulator more fully and then adjust the burner and pilot light.

I've ordered two 1/4" needle valves. One for the pilot light, and the other for the burner.

Parts will be here in a couple of days, so it'll probably be Saturday that I'll be able to test it out.

On another note, the Bradley smoker doesn't look like it can handle the cold. I'm thinking the 110v line just isn't enough amps to power the heating element. I was hoping it'd work since the cabinet is much smaller, and less space to heat.

I'm going to take the legs off the smoker and squeeze it all into a small garden shack.


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## wolfman1955

Let me know how things work out after you get the needle valves. Hope you get the bradly working.


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## dsjardo

Amazing thread.

I have been reading for a few months about propane controls and such.

And Ive found no decent way of controlling it without spending 5-600.

If this works out I think you will have a lot of people  following..


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## mw-smoke

I should have most or the receipts and such, so I'll post a build-spec when everything is finally done. 

I haven't been able to focus on finishing up these past few weeks, but there isn't much left to do.

There were some gas leaks so I have to break everything down and put it together with some liquid sealer. And I'm going to swap out burners.

Otherwise, everything is working exactly as it should.


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## dsjardo

mw-smoke said:


> I should have most or the receipts and such, so I'll post a build-spec when everything is finally done.
> 
> I haven't been able to focus on finishing up these past few weeks, but there isn't much left to do.
> 
> There were some gas leaks so I have to break everything down and put it together with some liquid sealer. And I'm going to swap out burners.
> 
> Otherwise, everything is working exactly as it should.


That's really cool.

Glad it worked out for ya.


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## mw-smoke

An update to everything.

We've had some warm weather lately so I had to get out and work on the smoker some more. 

Took everything apart and took off the teflon tape since I had a number of leaks. I coated all of the threads with #2 liquid pipe sealer and put it all back together, tested with some soap/alcohol mix leak detector and not finding any leaks.

I also swapped the low-pressure burner for a high-pressure one hoping that would fix the problem I've been having with the tall, yellow flame instead of the short, blue flame that I need. 

No luck with that... and to make matters worse, I'm getting a lot of gas coming out the back of the burner. 

I'm out of ideas for how to fix it. I hope you guys have some suggestions. 

Here's a picture of what I mean:













burner.jpg



__ mw-smoke
__ Mar 21, 2014






For posterity, here's what the whole setup is looking like so far:













smoker_setup.jpg



__ mw-smoke
__ Mar 21, 2014


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## mw-smoke

Another update.

It turns out my problem is just with the burner. 

I have a low pressure regulator, the low pressure controller valve, and a high pressure burner.

So now I'm just waiting for a friend to send me a burner from a hot water heater, and that should wrap it up.

Then it's just a matter of making it all look nice and neat.


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## mw-smoke

I took an older high-pressure burner that I had and welded part of the venturi closed, then made a low-pressure orifice for it.

I need lots of little blue flames and instead of these yellow ones, but at least there isn't any soot building up on the bottom of the water bowl. 













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__ mw-smoke
__ Mar 25, 2014


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## mw-smoke

Thought I'd share some hard lessons learned through this. 

- The PID has a built-in relay, so there was no need to purchase a separate relay.

- The Honeywell controller is 24V, so a 110V to 24V converter was needed.

- The Honeywell controller is low pressure, so the regulator and burner also have to be low pressure. 

If I had this to do all over, knowing what I know now, here is the build that I would have gone with.

I could have saved some money if I found cheaper or used parts, but I just didn't know better. 

These prices were all taken from Amazon.com (ASIN is Amazon Inventory ID): 













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__ mw-smoke
__ Mar 25, 2014


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## fuimus

Mw-smoke, this is a very cool thread.  I have been working with my system for a while now and would really like to come up with a way to add a electric gas valve on mine. I currently have a manual safety valve. I built my pipe burner and attached the pilot to it. and have an adjustable regulator with a gauge on my Propane tank.  I keep it around 9 pounds.  I have to keep the air intake on the Ventri almost closed to get the clean burn.  I get a nice blue flame but when it lights some times it lights in the pipe.  Also I have to open my doors very slowly or the back -draft snuffs the flame out

I have a couple of STC1000 PID.  I use them on a fridge and curing chamber. And i just so happen to have an extra STC1000 laying around. I looked at the PID you used but couldnt for the life of me figure it out. 

Congrats on your project very cool


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## mw-smoke

Howdy Fuimus, thanks for the kudos.

Getting that air/gas mixture just right is really tough. 

From what you're describing, I think the reason for that blow back is one of two things: the orifice that the gas passes through as it goes into the burner might be too large, so the gas slows down and lingers around the venturi; or the venturi needs to be outside the smoker. 

Those were both things I had to deal with and were part of my problems. 

I didn't move the burner, I put a steel sheet between the burner and the airway so fresh air was making its way in and the flame was not reaching for fresh air.

The other thing I did was weld up a nut and drill a very tiny hole in the welding, then screw the nut on the pipe threading feeding into the burner. This let me turn the gas flow down on the needle valve inline of the pipe going to the burner. As I understand it, the actual PSI won't be affected by the orifice size, just how quickly it moves out. 

Yeah, my PID was confusing as all get out, but I finally got it working. I didn't know the relay was built-in so I was treading down the wrong path quite a bit.


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## fuimus

Here is what my setup looks like













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__ fuimus
__ Jan 7, 2014


















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__ fuimus
__ Jan 7, 2014


















IMAGE_323.jpg



__ fuimus
__ Mar 28, 2014






The orfice is made for propane. I am gong to experiment with cutting the preassure down on the regulator and see what results I get with that


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## oldeboone

I would like to hear the details on how you plan to hook this up. Ernie


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## JckDanls 07

try turning that pipe burner upside down...  flames out the bottom...  this will help keep from blowing the flames out...  if the flame goes out in some of the holes the lit ones will help to relight them...


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## cnelvis

I'm working on this project, based on the final Amazon list that was posted, and I wanted to make sure I got the wiring correct.

From the pictures it looks like:

120v IN to PID terminals 1 (white -) and 2 (black +)
PID Terminal 3 (red +) 4 (black -) to INPUT of 24v transformer.  OUT from 24v transformer to Gas Valve control.

Thermocouple blue to 7 / red to 8

In another post, it was mentioned to "wire up the 24vAC to pin 3 on the PID, and wire pin 4 to the controller", but I'm not sure what that means.  

Thanks!


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## mw-smoke

Hey cnelvis, 

I'm at work now, but when I get home, I'll take and add some pictures showing how everything is wired. 

Stay tuned!


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## mw-smoke

The diagram may not turn out really well on the forums, but here is a link to download a high resolution image: http://i.imgur.com/5Dp2D7q.jpg













bbq_smoker_wiring_diagram.jpg



__ mw-smoke
__ Jun 30, 2015






Lemme know if this doesn't do the trick.


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## cnelvis

I get it!  120v positive (+) from electrical cord goes to terminal 1 on the PID controller and 120v negative (-) to terminal 2 on the PID.

Then another wire goes from terminal 1/2 to power the input of the 120v to 24v transformer.  You are powering both the PID Controller and the 24v transformer with the same terminals!  Got it! :)

Then from the 24v output of transformer (+) into terminal 3 on the PID.

Terminal 4 PID output goes to the (+) input on the gas control valve.

Then the 24v (-) from transformer bypasses the PID and gets wired directly to gas control valve.

Thanks for the clarification and the photos!  Can't wait to finish this up!


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## cnelvis

Finally finished this!  The short test worked great.  Looking to do a longer test soon.  Will post pictures.  Thanks mw-smoke!


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## mw-smoke

Very cool - can't wait to see the pics!


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## indaswamp

Wolfman1955 said:


> Mornin mw-smoke, I did a little research on your components and this is what I found:
> From the honeywell site:
> 
> 
> VR8200A2132/U
> 24 Vac, Standard Opening, Standing Pilot Gas Valve with 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. inlet\outlet
> 
> 
> Find Equivalent or Replacement Products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Product InfoLiteratureAccessories & Replacement PartsOverview
> Gas valves for use in 24 Vac, gas-fired, standing pilot appliances with capacities from 20 to 200 cfh.
> 
> Features
> 
> •Gas valves include manual valve, two automatic operators, servo pressure regulator and pilot adjustment.
> •Compact size.
> •Provide two automatic valves.
> •Solenoid-operated first automatic valve opens on thermostat call for heat; closes when call for heat ends.
> •Diaphragm-operated second automatic valve opens under control of regulator; closes if gas or power supply is interrupted.
> •Meet codes requiring dual safety shutoff.
> •Natural to LP and LP to Natural conversion kits available for standard and slow opening gas valves.
> •LITE-RITE (OFF-PILOT-ON) lighting sequence.
> •All adjustments, wiring connections and pilot outlet are accessible from top of control.
> •Adjustable servo regulator effectively maintains almost constant gas output pressure under wide fluctuations in gas supply pressure.
> •Compatible with ECO connector.
> 
> From this I interpret you need 24Vac to open the main gas suply from this valve to your burner. From your picture I believe you will need to move the pilot light assembly so the burner is not between the pilot flame and the pilot flame capillary sensor.
> 
> From what i could find on your controller:
> 
> Display: Dual display for Fahrenheit (F) and Celsius (C)
> •Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal)
> •Main Output: Relay,Normal open, AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A COSφ=1
> • PID cooling/heating control( can choose normal alarm output by software)
> •Alarm Output: 1 RELAY: capacity AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A
> • 7 different Dual Output combinations with: high / low / high deviation / low deviation /interval / out of interval / breakage alarm
> •Accuracy: 0.3%
> •Input: Thermo Resistor: PT100, Cu50
> •Thermocouple: J,S,K,E,Wre3 ~ Wre25
> •Dimension: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm)
> •Weight: about 150g
> •Individually programmable PID control parameters.
> P, I, d, controlling period, digital filter coefficient, and more… (for control theory experts only)
> •SSR control ready to connect
> external Solid State Relay to handle High current. Applications.
> •Compact design:
> DIN 1/16, great form-factor to be included/build-in to your product.
> 
> If you look at the Main Output it is a relay it is a Normal open relay{a relay is nothing more than a switch}. I am very sure that this controller does not suply power to this relay and that it will require external power suplied to terminal 3 and out terminal 4.
> 
> That being said your control valve operates on 24Vac you are going to need a 120Vac to 24Vac stepdown transformer. I saw one on amazon for $25 but you should be able to get one localy at any HVAC parts suply. You would suply 120Vac to the transformer and then run one side of the transformer out to terminal 3 then terminal 4 would wire to your gas valve the other lead from the transformer would wire straight to the gas valve.
> 
> .


Yes, external power must be supplied to activate the relay. Sausage maker sells a 24vac transformer which uses 120v input. You pug it into a wall outlet and voila-you have 24Vac power to your controller relay.


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## indaswamp

I am following this thread. I plan on going auto with my new smoker build:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/...ardie-board-outhouse-smoker-build-pics-addded

I really want the auto shut off feature if I loose the flame, and I will feel better walking away to do yard work and such while the smoker is up and running. Especially with warm smoking sausages!


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## chimney smoker

Hi smokers, I’m thinking of automating my natural gas fridge smoke. I have been reading this older post and wondering if the electronics have become better or easier to install. I would definitely like your ideas or opinions on how to convert and connect a controller to a gas valve. Maybe someone has a parts list on what’s needed for the conversion?
Any help is greatly appreciated!


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