# Masterbuild XL Mods - Post your mods here!



## darthtrader

As suggested by Caiguar, let's post our Masterbuilt XL mods here so we can all share and get ideas as early adopters.  Perhaps Masterbuilt can use some mods in their second generation roll out?


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## bourbonman

Darth- After this weekends smoke I had to mod this baby. I had 2 main issues- the wood chip pan and the water pan. The mod I did isn't particularly easy and I haven't fired it up yet, but here it is:

In looking at the stock wood chip pan, it sits right in top of the lip for the burner. This means all air flow from the bottom goes through the vents in the pan- which is probably why we are having trouble with the chunks catching fire. I decided to go with what I was familiar with and install the cast iron box from the GOSM. I found it fit well in the water chip rack. Since the water pan sucks anyway, I decided to use it for the wood box.

























Since there were no holes that low for the rack hangers I had to drill holes 4.75 inches from the bottom to accommodate the lower rack position. It still leaves plenty of room for air flow. I decided to use a large foil pan for the water- this sacrifices one of the cooking racks. I called Masterbuilt and you can order spares for $19.99 and the hangers for $12.99 each(which seems a little steep for what they are). The GOSM large wood chunk box is $15.99. You will need to add shipping to all of the above prices. I happen to have the large smoke box with my GOSM 3605, so I was able to experiment without laying out any cash.


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## phlunkie

bourbonman said:


> Since there were no holes that low for the rack hangers I had to drill holes 4.75 inches from the bottom to accommodate the lower rack position. It still leaves plenty of room for air flow. I decided to use a large foil pan for the water- this sacrifices one of the cooking racks. I called Masterbuilt and you can order spares for $19.99 and the hangers for $12.99 each(which seems a little steep for what they are). The GOSM large wood chunk box is $15.99. You will need to add shipping to all of the above prices. I happen to have the large smoke box with my GOSM 3605, so I was able to experiment without laying out any cash.


I am looking at getting this smoker and was wondering how you came about 4.75 inches for your holes?  Over all, as of now, are you happy with the smoker?  I have had numerous GOSM's and the idea of 1 vent makes me wonder about temperature control.  Would modding a stack into it make sense? Sorry if this is the wrong place to discuss it.


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## bourbonman

I wanted the bottom of the box to end up about 2 inches from the lip of the burner. After a lot of calculations I came up with 4.75 inches- the rack hangers sit .5 inches below the hole after they are installed, the bottom of the wood box is 2 inches below the rack, and the lip is 1.5 inches off the floor of the smoker. Bottom line 4.75 inches seemed to work. I am happy with the build quality of this smoker, I was not happy with the wood chip pan and the water pan. Having owned a GOSM for 8 years I was dissapointed Bass Pro stopped selling the big block, since after my mods that is basically what I'm going to end up with. I am going to fire it up this afternoon and will let you know how it does. I may have to add vents on the side- then my mongrel Masterbuilt/GOSM would be complete!


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## bourbonman

Update- fired it up with 2 large soaked hickory chunks and filled the pan with 1 gal. water. It took a little longer to get to 250, but I think that was because of the water. I had thin blue smoke and am now happy.


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## phlunkie

bourbonman said:


> Update- fired it up with 2 large soaked hickory chunks and filled the pan with 1 gal. water. It took a little longer to get to 250, but I think that was because of the water. I had thin blue smoke and am now happy.


Thank you for the updates and info.  After reading around, I might just venture into converting an old fridge, or warming type rack.  Not sure yet. Depends on if i can convince the missus on a ugly big fridge in the backyard. I will follow the progress here.


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## caiguar

hey guys I'm interested in the wood box from the GOSM where can I get those, 15.99 seems fair to completely eliminate the possibility of wood catching fire and messing up the temps.  I am also thinking of getting an "amazing smoke" to take care of the smoking.  just looking at the possibilities.


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## darthtrader

Thanks for the pics, bourbonman.  I'm starting to have a feeling that I may have made the wrong purchase here...  Seems like all we are doing is trying to jerry rig these things to work as good as the GOSM.  Oh well... Worst case scenario, there's always Craigslist.

Here's what I'm thinking about doing...  I have a spare 11" cast iron pan lying around so I thought I'd use that in place of the chip pan and holding it up with a wok ring or a cast iron trivet to keep air flowing underneath.  













Thoughts?

I'll be firing up the cooker this weekend. More later...


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## bourbonman

I like the trivet thing because it would negate having to drill holes. I think a bigger water pan is a must- it helps with heat recovery in my opinion and recycles the smoke and dripping flavor in the smoker as it boils. I don't want to give the wrong impression- I like the smoker. There are some positives to this unit over the GOSM- specifically the rack system. I think it gives value for the price and really there are only a couple alternatives in this size as far as propane is concerned and they are all more expensive.


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## bourbonman

The phone number for Landmann is 877-347-4557. I ordered the wood box and lid for $14.00 and $10 shipping. Make sure to order the wood box for the 3605BGD.


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## caiguar

All I am trying is, to make it better. the smoker is really good but its not that we don't like it, it's just that we as smokers always like(at least me)to mess with our things and make them our own and make them work our way.

I love this model, don't get me wrong.  I am just looking for ways to make it better.  with that in mind I like the last idea about the spare parts to repalce the stock wood pan.  nice one.


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## bikr4jc

I am getting ready to unbox my unit today.  If the problem with the chip pan the holes in it causing flame to start the chips on fire?  How about welding up the holes?  Does the cast iron one have holes in it?  I am planning on using it this weekend for my wife's birthday and don't want a problems.  I am planning a few butts and ribs.  I don't think I will have time to mod it before the weekend.


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## bikr4jc

Another quick question, sorry if not right place, do you still soak the wood chips and chunks before using in this smoker...??

Got my answer, Thanks!!


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## darthtrader

bikr4jc, this is what I ended up doing: I took a $10 replacement gas stove top cooking grate and set that on top of the raised lip where the burner is.  I set a cast iron pan on top of that and wood chunks on top of the pan.  Problem solved.  I had perfect thin blue smoke piping out.  :)


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## bikr4jc

darthtrader said:


> bikr4jc, this is what I ended up doing: I took a $10 replacement gas stove top cooking grate and set that on top of the raised lip where the burner is.  I set a cast iron pan on top of that and wood chunks on top of the pan.  Problem solved.  I had perfect thin blue smoke piping out.  :)
> 
> Thanks!!!


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## bikr4jc

darthtrader said:


> bikr4jc, this is what I ended up doing: I took a $10 replacement gas stove top cooking grate and set that on top of the raised lip where the burner is.  I set a cast iron pan on top of that and wood chunks on top of the pan.  Problem solved.  I had perfect thin blue smoke piping out.  :)




I had to season my new smoker after I put it together, I used all the original equipment and the chunks caught fire just like everyone said they would.

So I took a grate off the stove and grabbed a cast pan and did what you suggested.  Works excellent!! Thin blue smoke even heat. 

Only problem is how do I explain to the wife the missing grate.......  
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





I told her it will be back in a few hours......

Thanks for the tip!!


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## dbarnett66

darthtrader said:


> bikr4jc, this is what I ended up doing: I took a $10 replacement gas stove top cooking grate and set that on top of the raised lip where the burner is.  I set a cast iron pan on top of that and wood chunks on top of the pan.  Problem solved.  I had perfect thin blue smoke piping out.  :)


Yee haw! I love the concept of keeping it simple. Where did you get your grate and what sized pan?


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## bikr4jc

I know you asked Darthtrader but I will chime in also.  I used a 12" cast iron pan, then I went to the local appliance repair store that repairs and sells parts.  I told them what I was looking for and what I was using it for.  The guy goes into the backroom and brings out a used grate he had back there, best $2 I ever spent...  Here are some pics of the mod I did....


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## marksmoke

Thanks to all the posts and great ideas.

Just smoked my first butt, (turned out Mmmm Mmmm, Good)
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





   *BUT*,  I too found the wood tray and the water pan to be difficult. I ended up taking the rack just above the water pan out and used a cup to pour water into the tray.  And the wood tray after the first refill I was already thinking of how to to make this easier to handle. 

So with all these great post I know now what I will do.  THANKS


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## darthtrader

A picture's worth a thousand words!  Thanks for sharing, bikr4jc!  That's exactly what I did.


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## arwes

I can already tell I'm going to have to do this too.  Smoking some chickens, and twice now I've had to put a fire out.  Until I can get a cheap cast iron skillet, I'm taking the wood pan out of the old Brinkmann split door and using it.  Probably going tomorrow to get a cheap skillet and a burner grate.  Thanks for sharing your ingenuity!


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## darthtrader

The water pan is seriously useless rubbish if you're going to cook at a temp over 200ºF for more than two hours.  The dinky grease bowl wasn't cutting it either, so I killed two birds with one stone.  I'm not too thrilled about using an aluminum disposable pan... Seems like a waste.  Here's what I'm using instead.  It's a full sized stainless steel steam table pan.  I just sat it on top of the existing water pan rack.  It works great!  The water lasts for as long as I want it to, gives the meat enough shielding from direct heat and serves as a drip pan for easy cleanup.  I'll see about taking a few pics later this weekend during my next rib cook.


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## bikr4jc

I was wondering around Walmart the other day and found this for $9...  I knew what I wanted for.... the rack will be used for something...  rib rack??


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## bikr4jc

Gong to mod the bottom rack to accept the new pan.....

Coming soon...


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## bikr4jc

By the way, is my smoker getting dirty enough???  It is getting some use!!!


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## otis857

Thank you guys for all these mod suggestions. I've been lurking here and looking at propane smokers as a replacement for my old Bar B Chef offset smoker. After researching it out, I bought a Masterbuilt XL last night. Bass Pro shops had them on sale for $179, and the build quality was definately the deciding factor. I haven't seen the GOSM to compare, but the other sub $300 smokers were stamped sheet metal and looked chintzy.

Aside from the chip and water pan, is there any value to insulating the insides of the smoker with some sort of heat proof thin insulating material? I thought about the material being inside with the food, so I thought about using sheet metal to cover it up. It looks easy enough to add insulation on the sides. The top & back, not so much. Seems to me that would help with keeping the heat in and the propane usage down. Also, how well does the door seal? I read a few comments on other smokers that people needed to install oven gaskets to seal them up. Is this an issue with the XL?


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## otis857

I went out to Bass Pro Shops and bought a Masterbuilt XL this past weekend and am looking to get started on the mods. Has anyone considered simply closing off the vents on the bottom of the smoke pan?  A piece of round sheet metal pop rivted or welded to it would suffice, I would think. Also, I ran across a comment on the net about using cement board on the inside of a smoker for insulation. Home depot has it cheap and I'll let you know if it pans out.


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## otis857

Well, the 1/2" cement backer board idea worked out pretty good. It's cheap, can be cut easily with a skill saw and fits in well between the tube steel frame sections. You need to use a small grinder to notch out the backer board where the nutserts for the door lock are to get it to fin it place. I didnt notch out where the handle nuts are welded and it bows slightly there, but not enough to interfere with anything. I used 1" sheet metal strips going from front to rear and pop rivited into the tubing to hold the backer board in place. My digital camera went DOA or I'd post some pics.

A side note, my wife wanted me to paint the outside of it to match the brown patio set and BBQ island it will be sitting next to. I was able to match it close enough using some leftover DuPont automotive paint and it looks pretty cool. Now, I may have the only brown metalic Masterbuilt smoker on the planet. Once the water pan and chip pan mods are done, Im ready to fire it up with some ribs. OH YA!!


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## jakethessnake

Anybody know how low of a temp these things can go to and still have usuable smoke? I just ordered mine yesterday after finding a $20 off $100+ purchase at Bass Pro. Coupon code is *SAVEPC6* and expires 12-13-10


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## dbarnett66

I have been looking for a used stove grate to no avail when I saw my stock wood chunk pan and had a simple revelation. Wouldn't the cast iron frying pan just sit fine on top of the wood chip pan? Sometimes solutions are to simple to see clearly...LOL.


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## otis857

I fired up my smoker for the first smoke on Saturday. As others have said, the chip pan is junk! I tried modifying it with some strips of sheet metal over the vents. Still let the chips catch fire. Now I have to find a cheap cast iron skillet or heavy guage chip pan.

I made a bigger water pan from a pan I found at Target for $10 that holds about 1/2 gallon. It was slightly wider than the original one and much deaper and longer. This was nice because I cut out the metal wires out of the rack that keeps the stock pan from moving side to side and bent the lengthwise running wires out a little, which let the Target pan slip right in.

The door leaks smoke too. Others have discussed smoker gasket tape. I found some on ebay but it is pretty wide for this door. So I found this link to another company selling self adhesive felt tape that's both narrower and cheaper. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120638055780&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Hope this helps the cause


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## fantn

Instead of a stove grate and cast iron skillet I picked up a larger diameter 3 legged dutch oven. The legs are not quite long enough but it seemed to work well. I will need to get something to raise it up some to give more room for air flow. Another issue is adding more wood chips. I got a large $8 water tray for the first smoke and had to pull it completely out to add wood from above. I may look for two smaller trays that I can use in the center of the water rack, but allows me to split the open for easy access to add chips.

First smoke of three fatties and a 9 lb ham went great.


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## jakethessnake

dbarnett66 said:


> I have been looking for a used stove grate to no avail when I saw my stock wood chunk pan and had a simple revelation. Wouldn't the cast iron frying pan just sit fine on top of the wood chip pan? Sometimes solutions are to simple to see clearly...LOL.


I ended up doing this when I seasoned mine last night, it worked great. I'll just keep doing it this way until I find an oven grate.


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## jakethessnake

darthtrader said:


> The water pan is seriously useless rubbish if you're going to cook at a temp over 200ºF for more than two hours.  The dinky grease bowl wasn't cutting it either, so I killed two birds with one stone.  I'm not too thrilled about using an aluminum disposable pan... Seems like a waste.  Here's what I'm using instead.  It's a full sized stainless steel steam table pan.  I just sat it on top of the existing water pan rack.  It works great!  The water lasts for as long as I want it to, gives the meat enough shielding from direct heat and serves as a drip pan for easy cleanup.  I'll see about taking a few pics later this weekend during my next rib cook.


After my first smoke (I used a big roaster pan) I cant imagine how useless that tiny pan would be. I ran my large roaster pan empty a couple times and it's about 3x the size. Where did you find a roaster pan at? And how ell does it fit.




bikr4jc said:


> I was wondering around Walmart the other day and found this for $9...  I knew what I wanted for.... the rack will be used for something...  rib rack??







bikr4jc said:


> Gong to mod the bottom rack to accept the new pan.....
> 
> Coming soon...




Bring on the pics! I almost bought one of them yesterday and will for sure if it's a semi easy mod.


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## darthtrader

Hey Jake, sorry it's taken so long for an answer.  It's been a busy season.  I've had my big hotel pans for as long as I can remember.  I think they were "accidentally" brought home from a company BBQ by a clepto family member, so I didn't buy them.  I think you can get them at restaurant supply stores.  You could even try Smart and Final.  They have a lot of restaurant supply stuff, but you don't have to buy batches like you would at a bulk supply store.  I also see them at used restaurant supply stores for cheap.


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## jakethessnake

darthtrader said:


> Hey Jake, sorry it's taken so long for an answer.  It's been a busy season.  I've had my big hotel pans for as long as I can remember.  I think they were "accidentally" brought home from a company BBQ by a clepto family member, so I didn't buy them.  I think you can get them at restaurant supply stores.  You could even try Smart and Final.  They have a lot of restaurant supply stuff, but you don't have to buy batches like you would at a bulk supply store.  I also see them at used restaurant supply stores for cheap.


No problem, I ended up getting a big pan with a rack in it from Walmart. It was a pretty good sized heavy duty pan and it's worked great so far. I am LOVING this smoker. It's so much easier and more consistent than my big ole stick burner. Not to mention it's WAY more efficient. The amount of wood it took my old smoker to heat up is about enough to run the Masterbuilt for 12 hours. I've probably used it 5 times in the last month and am getting ready to fire it up here in a few hours for my first standing rib roast.


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## otis857

After a few smoke sessions, I found some more areas to address. Im wondering if you guys have these problems too. First off, I smoked some chicken over the weekend in some Very cold (for Az)  and windy conditions. it was during a medium breeze and 40 degrees after dark here. Even with the backer board for insulation, I could barely get the smoker up to 225 degrees. I got the bird smoked, but it surprised me how long it took to get up to temp. In the warmer weather, I had the control valve set down to nearly the lowest setting to maintain 225. Im thinking of getting a regulator from a turkey fryer to allow for better heat control on both ends of the spectrum to address this problem.

Second problem is I still have the wood chunks catching fire, even with using a cast iron frying pan (no lid) . A question for bikr4jc; How far off the burner is the bottom of your frying pan?  Do you still have wood chunks catch fire? I hate to chunk down 25 bucks for a cast iron lid for my FREE frying pan, only to drill holes in it and make it otherwise useless. Im cheap, what can I say? 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





Will increasing the height from the burner to the bottom of the pan end this problem? Or buy a lid & hack it up?


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## jakethessnake

I've only had the chunks catch fire once, on my last smoke. I was running the burner wide open and it was about 275+ degrees at the time. I have my cast iron pan right on top of the included chip pan.

I've also had it going in single digit temps without issue. The other day around 40 degrees, the dial was about at 20%. When it was single digit temps, I had to almost max it out to hit 225, and after a half an hour, it started climbing again. It seems to fluctuate for some reason. I had it at 225 @ about 20% so I moved it and waited 10-15 mins. I did this 3 times and ended up going about 60% to get 245 degrees. For a while, it wasn't even moving. I also got the fittings to do a needle valve and an oven seal for the door.

I really dont like the vent on this thing, it allows wind to blow right into it and I think that may be the problem, hopefully a chimney style vent will fix that. I haven't quite figured out how I want to do that though.


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## otis857

Im convinced the wind, more than the temps were the problem. The rear vent is something I wanted to change too. Maybe fabricate something like the small chimney that Traeger uses on their smokers. It may help draw more smoke out of it too. But it looks like a fabrication, unless anyone knows where you can buy a ready made universal style chimney with a 90 degree angle. Im thinking about using some 2.5" exhaust tubing and DIY one.


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## jakethessnake

Otis857 said:


> Im convinced the wind, more than the temps were the problem. The rear vent is something I wanted to change too. Maybe fabricate something like the small chimney that Traeger uses on their smokers. It may help draw more smoke out of it too. But it looks like a fabrication, unless anyone knows where you can buy a ready made universal style chimney with a 90 degree angle. Im thinking about using some 2.5" exhaust tubing and DIY one.




I'm actually thinking about blocking the factory one and cutting a hole in top of it, I'm not too fond of cutting holes like that though


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## otis857

China tool central, aka Harbor freight hole saw kit. They wont last long, but will do the trick for a while before they go dull.


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## otis857

Ive been doing more smoking and less talking lately with my  heavily modified Masterbuilt XL. Overall, its been good, but Im not where I want to be with it yet. Heres some problems that I wonder if you guys see too;

1. Its a little hard to get the temps below 225 degrees.

2. The air flow through the smoker could be improved. (this could help problem # 1)

3. smoke/humidity leakage around the door, Mfr tag and top seams leaves black mess running down the outside in these areas. This is more noticable since mine is painted brown.

4. hard to keep the temps up on cold, windy days, even with added insulation.

5. Still not completely happy with the cast iron frying pan for chip pan and water pan mods. The pan may be too close to the flame as I still am fighting heavy smoke problems - trying to get the thin blue smoke consistantly.

What to do, what to do? 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Im currently fabricating a chimney out of 3" muffler pipe to install on the back, similar to Traeger grills design. I picked up a stove pipe damper and rain cap on amazon cheap enough to give this a try. Hopefully this will address1&2 problems. Anyone know where you can buy small round, adjustable air vents? If I add one or 2 near the bottom, it may really improve the airflow too. Has anyone added a fan like the bbq guru on to a propane smoker? They're a little pricey though, even more than I paid for the smoker.

I saw a guy on another thread that was MBtechguy, with the Masterbuilt logo next to his name. Are you watching these comments and where does your company stand on these problems? Many of these concerns and fixes could be incorporated into future XL smoker designs and save your future customers all this grief! Now that Masterbuilt has Bass Pro Shops selling this model over the GOSM, You have great market exposure! Now its time to refine your product! These tweaks are getting expensive, frustrating and very time consuming!

China will build whatever design you specify.


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## fantn

I smoked some fatties and a brisket earlier this year and had the same issue with keeping temperature. Air temp was in the 40's with a breeze. The fatties took 5 hours vs 3.5 hrs on a warm day. The brisket never got over 140 degrees in 8.5 hours. Decided to throw it out (painful) since it did not meet the 4 hr danger zone. Waiting on a warmer day before I attempt that again.


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## jakethessnake

fantn said:


> I smoked some fatties and a brisket earlier this year and had the same issue with keeping temperature. Air temp was in the 40's with a breeze. The fatties took 5 hours vs 3.5 hrs on a warm day. The brisket never got over 140 degrees in 8.5 hours. Decided to throw it out (painful) since it did not meet the 4 hr danger zone. Waiting on a warmer day before I attempt that again.


What temp was the smoker running? I've had mine running when it was 10 degrees out and 225 was any where from 1/4 to 1/2 on the temp dial depending on the wind. I've also maxed out my Maverick (350+) when I cranked it up in similar weather. There may be something wrong with yours, I seem to recall reading about that somewhere and Masterbuilt fixed whatever it was.


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## fantn

Jake,

That is what is so strange. The Thermometer was on the top shelf and read consistantly at 225 to 275 depending on my adjustment. I kept it at medium on the dial. Changes from first smoke were only raising dutch oven with wood chips higher off the opening to the burner (maybe 1/4 of an inch). The water did not seem to "burn off" as much either this time?. I have checked the thermometer in boiling water since and the meat thermometer read 212 while the smoker thermometer read 215.

I did have issues with the propane tanks. The tank from the first smoke would not open (handle froze up?). I used the partial from my BBQ Grill to get started and exchanged the frozen one at Lowe's.

I plan to retry it with som fattie and maybe another ham in early Feb if it warms up on the weekend and see if it works better.


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## jakethessnake

Hmm, that is weird. I keep my temp probe in the middle of the smoker towards the front, about 5 inches lower than the one on the door. They are usually within 5 degrees of each other. What does yours read on the door?


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## fantn

I did not pay attention to the thermometer in the door. I noticed today that the spare propane tank I took from the BBQ grill was almost empty. I wonder if low pressure might be a factor. Turned the smoker on with the new tank and the flame looked fine?


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## gchild

Having the XL since Xmas, I have found the problems that everyone else has. I sealed the door with wood stove gasket from Lowes, added a bent plate to the door to keep the drippings from dripping out the bottom all over the deck, added a 4" steamer tray (hotel pan) for a water pan/drip tray and replaced the chip pan with a cast iron frying pan sitting on a gas range burner grate. The other thing that was bothering me was the height that the unit was sitting. I built a stand with side tables to make it more accessable, more mobile and more usable. The other thing is I connected it to our buried propane tank for the house, so I didnt have to worry about running out of gas during a smoke.

I have done several sets of ribs, chuckies, butts and a few chickens and all came out good.

Over all I think it is a good smoker for the money.


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## dbarnett66

Sweet mods. I use an over sized water pan, so I do not have to worry much about drippings on the bottom. I do have some smoke leaking at the hinge side of the door, but my meat comes out just fine. I too have went with the cast iron frying pan for wood chunks. I love the cart idea. Too bad I do not have the welder or the welding skills to pull off such a feat. Great job!


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## cbd1

This is what I did after having my flame blow out overnight and ruin 15lbs of pork butt. Now, I intend to still use propane for the hotter cooks, like turkey etc. But, for an overnight cook... Initially, I tried it with one element in the center, but I could only obtain 200deg with cold meat so I added a second element. I figure this way if one element dies overnight, I'll be safe until I can swap it out and won't loose the meat.  Anyway, I have some casters to add as well later today.


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## dbarnett66

Since I have added the frying pan for the wood chunks and a full size Stainless steel catering pan for the water pan, my BBQ is coming out awesome. I only have to turn my gas valve between medium and low to get 225 degrees and it stays there forever. I have a UDS that is collecting dust right now. I like the taste of my pork better with the Master Built propane than I do with the UDS charcoal. The meat seems to be more dusty and gritty from the ash on the UDS. I get some clean BBQ with the propane smoker and a few pecan chunks. I don't have to worry about gaskets or insulation on this baby. I can get this thing way over 300 if I need to beer butt a couple of yard birds. Definitely a thumbs up!


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## bikr4jc

I got a new problem, my smoker wont heat up, the flame looks like it in the med. range even when on high,  if I go from low to high the flame jumps up for a second them back down to the med level.  What kind of maintance do you have to do after smokes or the keep clean, dont know if its dirt or rust or what the hell is going on....


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## darthtrader

GChild said:


> Having the XL since Xmas, I have found the problems that everyone else has. I sealed the door with wood stove gasket from Lowes, added a bent plate to the door to keep the drippings from dripping out the bottom all over the deck, added a 4" steamer tray (hotel pan) for a water pan/drip tray and replaced the chip pan with a cast iron frying pan sitting on a gas range burner grate. The other thing that was bothering me was the height that the unit was sitting. I built a stand with side tables to make it more accessable, more mobile and more usable. The other thing is I connected it to our buried propane tank for the house, so I didnt have to worry about running out of gas during a smoke.
> 
> I have done several sets of ribs, chuckies, butts and a few chickens and all came out good.
> 
> Over all I think it is a good smoker for the money.



Very cool cart, GChild.  Do you have any pictures of the build to share with us or maybe some pictures of how you attached the smoker to the cart itself?  I want to build a cart for mine too.  It's getting to be a real pain moving this thing around.  




cbd1 said:


> This is what I did after having my flame blow out overnight and ruin 15lbs of pork butt. Now, I intend to still use propane for the hotter cooks, like turkey etc. But, for an overnight cook... Initially, I tried it with one element in the center, but I could only obtain 200deg with cold meat so I added a second element. I figure this way if one element dies overnight, I'll be safe until I can swap it out and won't loose the meat.  Anyway, I have some casters to add as well later today.




I have the opposite problem, CBD1.  I'm having trouble getting the smoker below 170.  I have a few of those from my old electric smoker.  I think I'll try modding the XL to fit one.  Could you possibly post some close up pictures of how you have the units attached inside and out?  Thanks in advance!


----------



## housemusik

I was using a cast iron pan on top of the existing (flawed) factory chip pan that came with the XL, but I think the factory chip pan was dissipating more heat than I wanted and I wasn't getting enough smoke.  I was thinking about getting a stove grate like others have on this forum, but I thought that would put the cast iron pan too close to the flame so rather than not getting enough smoke I would get too much of the white foggy smoke I don't want.  I was looking around a few stores for a good solution, when I found a "grilling wok" at a local grocery store (Fred Meyer).  This will hopefully provide a perfect solution.  I am doing a chuck roast and a butt this weekend, so we'll see how it goes.

Here is a link to a "grilling wok"  like the one I used on Amazon.  May be the same thing as I have:


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## smokethis1

I am using the chip pan that came with the smoker, but after a few initial fires, I took a sledge hammer and laid the pan on a work bench, and pounded the prongs down almost flat. I have come to the conclusion that it is better to always use aluminum foil under my chips and loosely leave the top of the foil open. I also built a dolly with casters. I have pictures of both mods on my profile page.


----------



## smokethis1

I am using the chip pan that came with the smoker, but after a few initial fires, I took a sledge hammer and laid the pan on a work bench, and pounded the prongs down almost flat. I have come to the conclusion that it is better to always use aluminum foil under my chips and loosely leave the top of the foil open. I also built a dolly with casters. I have pictures of both mods on my profile page.


----------



## j4165y

These are the mods that I made... 14" SS Dog Dish rewelded rack to accomidate and welded all the vent slots on the wood chip pan and installed leveling bolts to adjust heat output.


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## smokethis1

I bought a 141/2"x 11" x 2" deep Lasagana pan at K-Mart for $9.95. I cut the rack down the middle, and bent back the wires to the edge on all four corners, and set the pan right in. It holds twice as much water. Works great! The pan goes from front to back instead of side to side, which makes it very easy to add more water without pulling out the tray rack.


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## darthtrader

I've had this smoker for nearly a year now.  My biggest problem with it is inadequate airflow causing some cooks to turn bitter from stale smoke.  I imagine that this could possibly be due to the exhaust positioning on the back side rather than top and lack of control of the intake.  The poorly fitting door, inaccurate thermostat, the wobbly uneven legs, laughable drip and wood pans...I can deal with all of that, but airflow...that's going to take some major modding.  Is anyone else dissatisfied with this?


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## otis857

I came to the same conclusion! I fabbed a chimney off the back which helps allot, but Im still looking at adding a vent down low on either the front or on each side. If anyone knows where you can buy an adjustable vent similar to other model smokers, please post a link. This would be the last mod I think is needed to get this smoker up to par with more expensive models.


----------



## j4165y

You are way too nit picky.. I have no problems with my smoker. The cast iron pans are too thick to burn wood properly. That is why I welded the slots shout or just take a hammer and pound even and use foil to avoid flame touching the wood. For the Money this is the BEST smoker out there. Air flow and leakage is in your head.. Just cook and enjoy the results. Adjust the knob to low and maintain 225*. I have cooked over 300lbs of meat with no problems. I use apple wood on Chicken, Brisket, Pork Ribs and Links.


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## otis857

Call it what you will. But when you get down to it, the smoker is a box with shelves, a chip pan and a burner in the bottom. The trick is to make that box cook meat as good as any other box with shelves and a burner. Air flow comes into play when you want to cook low and slow at 225 or less and this smoker does have a problem maintaining low temps without the burner going out. This box does just fine at 250-325 with the previously mentioned mods. And especially for the price, it does many things good. But for most of us, this is a hobby every bit as much as a way to cook your dinner. And there is no nit picking in trying to squeek the best performance possible out of this inexpensive and fairly well made smoker.

Look at other, more expensive smokers. They usually have a vent or vents at the bottom to help regulate temp and air flow. When I find and add some round 1/4 turn air vents, IMHO, this smoker will perform with the best of them with minimal modifications and for a lot less $$'s than the expensive smokers.


----------



## dbarnett66

darthtrader said:


> I've had this smoker for nearly a year now.  My biggest problem with it is inadequate airflow causing some cooks to turn bitter from stale smoke.  I imagine that this could possibly be due to the exhaust positioning on the back side rather than top and lack of control of the intake.  The poorly fitting door, inaccurate thermostat, the wobbly uneven legs, laughable drip and wood pans...I can deal with all of that, but airflow...that's going to take some major modding.  Is anyone else dissatisfied with this?


I am sorry that you have so many problems with the smoker. I ditched the water pan and the wood pan and replaced with with a cast iron pan for wood chunks and a full sized stainless steel catering pan. My door fits fine. A little smoke escapes but not enough to be a concern. I don't rely on my thermometer either although people have told me that it can be calibrated. I use oven thermometers and wireless thermometers for the meat.The XL has been the best smoker that I have owned. I don't even use my Ugly Drum Smoker anymore.  My legs have never wobbled.

I don't think you need to modify airflow. I use three to four fist sized chunks of pecan and that is it for the entire smoke. No bitterness what so ever. Because I use a full size catering pan, there is no need for the drip pan. All the drippings go back into the water pan. I leave my vents wide open and I can maintain temps at 225 to 250 without much concern. My knob is turned about midway between the low and medium setting with the air vent wide open. I would try using less wood and keep the vents wide open. If you are using the too much wood and it catches fire I could see some bitterness from soot. After a few minutes, I don't see visible smoke coming from my vents unless I get a flashlight and use it to back light the thin blue smoke. I hope this helps. Keep us posted.


----------



## dbarnett66

Otis857 said:


> Call it what you will. But when you get down to it, the smoker is a box with shelves, a chip pan and a burner in the bottom. The trick is to make that box cook meat as good as any other box with shelves and a burner. Air flow comes into play when you want to cook low and slow at 225 or less and this smoker does have a problem maintaining low temps without the burner going out. This box does just fine at 250-325 with the previously mentioned mods. And especially for the price, it does many things good. But for most of us, this is a hobby every bit as much as a way to cook your dinner. And there is no nit picking in trying to squeek the best performance possible out of this inexpensive and fairly well made smoker.
> 
> Look at other, more expensive smokers. They usually have a vent or vents at the bottom to help regulate temp and air flow. When I find and add some round 1/4 turn air vents, IMHO, this smoker will perform with the best of them with minimal modifications and for a lot less $$'s than the expensive smokers.


I maintain 225-250 on my XL for 11-12 hours with out any flame outs. I turn the knob 1/2 way between low and medium with great results. My vent is wide open.


----------



## otis857

My control knob is set at as low as it will go without the flame going out and I cant get it to hold 225, much less go below that. With any breeze at all the flame goes out at this low of a setting and I have to cook at 250. As I said before, it will do 250-325 with no problems (checked at the middle shelf) its keeping it at 225 that is a problem for my smoker. Thats where increased air flow will come into play. Perhaps these smokers are inconsistent and thats why some people have no problems maintaining lower temps and others have problems getting temps up, while others have no issues with the temperature at all. Chinese quality control standards leave much to be desired, especially in lower price point products such as this.

Dont get me wrong, Im not dissatisfied with the smoker. A lot of meat has gone through my smoker and no complaints havebeen lodged by Mrs Otis.  But I think more along the lines of Darthtrader as well as others here that have come up with creative mods for the XL. It is a decent smoker, but it could have easily been a great smoker from the start with a little more product R&D and some pre production user input. And its still easier and more consistant than the Bar B Chef offset charcoal smoker that it replaced at my house.

BTW, I run a cast iron frying pan for the chip pan and a full size S.S. serving pan for the water pan. THe frying pan works fine for chips smoking without catching on fire and the serving pan does a great job as a grease pan as well as a water pan.


----------



## darthtrader

j4165y said:


> You are way too nit picky.. I have no problems with my smoker. The cast iron pans are too thick to burn wood properly. That is why I welded the slots shout or just take a hammer and pound even and use foil to avoid flame touching the wood. For the Money this is the BEST smoker out there. Air flow and leakage is in your head.. Just cook and enjoy the results. Adjust the knob to low and maintain 225*. I have cooked over 300lbs of meat with no problems. I use apple wood on Chicken, Brisket, Pork Ribs and Links.


I'm glad you've had such problem free experience with yours.  I'm thinking mine must've been made on a Monday.  
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






   Understandably, this is only a $200 unit, but it would be nice not to expect to have to know a little welding/fab or have to buy a few extras to get to your point of satisfaction.  Don't be afraid to 'knit pick' around here!  If at the very least, we're helping Masterbuilt for their second generation roll-out, and they didn't even have to pay us a consulting fee.  




dbarnett66 said:


> I am sorry that you have so many problems with the smoker. I ditched the water pan and the wood pan and replaced with with a cast iron pan for wood chunks and a full sized stainless steel catering pan. My door fits fine. A little smoke escapes but not enough to be a concern. I don't rely on my thermometer either although people have told me that it can be calibrated. I use oven thermometers and wireless thermometers for the meat.The XL has been the best smoker that I have owned. I don't even use my Ugly Drum Smoker anymore.  My legs have never wobbled.
> 
> I don't think you need to modify airflow. I use three to four fist sized chunks of pecan and that is it for the entire smoke. No bitterness what so ever. Because I use a full size catering pan, there is no need for the drip pan. All the drippings go back into the water pan. I leave my vents wide open and I can maintain temps at 225 to 250 without much concern. My knob is turned about midway between the low and medium setting with the air vent wide open. I would try using less wood and keep the vents wide open. If you are using the too much wood and it catches fire I could see some bitterness from soot. After a few minutes, I don't see visible smoke coming from my vents unless I get a flashlight and use it to back light the thin blue smoke. I hope this helps. Keep us posted.


I've always favored a mild smoking of three chunks or less too.  One thing I've noticed from even the less costly gas smokers is the addition of intake vents and exhaust chimneys.  It's just nice to have options.     




Otis857 said:


> My control knob is set at as low as it will go without the flame going out and I cant get it to hold 225, much less go below that. With any breeze at all the flame goes out at this low of a setting and I have to cook at 250. As I said before, it will do 250-325 with no problems (checked at the middle shelf) its keeping it at 225 that is a problem for my smoker. Thats where increased air flow will come into play. Perhaps these smokers are inconsistent and thats why some people have no problems maintaining lower temps and others have problems getting temps up, while others have no issues with the temperature at all. Chinese quality control standards leave much to be desired, especially in lower price point products such as this.
> 
> Dont get me wrong, Im not dissatisfied with the smoker. A lot of meat has gone through my smoker and no complaints havebeen lodged by Mrs Otis.  But I think more along the lines of Darthtrader as well as others here that have come up with creative mods for the XL. It is a decent smoker, but it could have easily been a great smoker from the start with a little more product R&D and some pre production user input. And its still easier and more consistant than the Bar B Chef offset charcoal smoker that it replaced at my house.
> 
> BTW, I run a cast iron frying pan for the chip pan and a full size S.S. serving pan for the water pan. THe frying pan works fine for chips smoking without catching on fire and the serving pan does a great job as a grease pan as well as a water pan.


Would be great to see your chimney mod in pics, Otis!


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## otis857

Sorry for the Delay, Darth. Here's the pics of my Masterbuilt mods and some ribs I smoked for my 54th B day Sunday. You cant see it from this view, but I picked up a stove damper online and added it to the stack under the rain cap.







Here's the frying pan for a chip pan, sitting on an old bbq grate with 5/16 bolts to get the right height. I also used a full size SS serving pan for the water pan.







And this is where I cook my road kill. Outdoor Kitchen is still a work in progress. Maybe I went out a little too much, but when it was new, I painted it brown to match in with the rest of the Outdoor kitchen area. It definitely looks better than the flat black out of the box finish.







Here's some ribs & chicken ready to go on for the B day celebration. Sorry, no money shot. I got behind and had a houseful of people when the food came off, so I couldn't get any cooked road kill pics. But I didn't get any complaints, so I assume I'm on the right track to getting my Q to par.













I used the recipe on SmokingPit.com for the chicken, injected with diet cherry Dr. Pepper, and Johnny Trigg's recipe (on the same site) for the ribs. I hadnt been on that site for a while, but Rob Green has some new recipes that take your Q to the next level and I cant wait to try some more of his recipes. These were sure a hit.

Back to the issue of low air flow, Im still convinced that I need to add a vent or 2 on the bottom to get the air flowing better. I see too many other brand smokers with them and this will help me get closer to 200 degrees for fish and other cold smoking recipes.


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## glocksrock

I replaced the stock water pan with a lasanga pan, and I use a 10" cast iron skillet on top of the wood chip pan, but to help the heat pass through the pan I drilled 3 one half inch holes in the pan and it works great.


----------



## kevin scott

SmokeThis1 said:


> I am using the chip pan that came with the smoker, but after a few initial fires, I took a sledge hammer and laid the pan on a work bench, and pounded the prongs down almost flat. I have come to the conclusion that it is better to always use aluminum foil under my chips and loosely leave the top of the foil open. I also built a dolly with casters. I have pictures of both mods on my profile page.


I did a similar thing to mine, pounding the metal on the top of the tray down over the vent holes, then placing a layer of aluminum foil in the pan to hold my wood.  I don't close it at the top (yet), but I may at some point.  I noticed when I seasoned the smoker, the wood caught fire with those slots open; now it smolders the wood, but doesn't ignite it.


----------



## grinder

Here's the mod I made after reading the other posters ideas. The vent in the back seemed pathetic so I cut a 4" hole in the top and added a chimney with a damper and painted it with black bbq paint.I used a cast iron frying pan with stainless steel bolts for legs, for the wood pan. I flipped the drip pan rack upside down, so it hangs a little lower. The bigger drip pan I I bought sits on top of the rack leaving room to drop wood chunks into the burn pan below. Since I flipped the drip pan rack upside down, the drip pan just fits under the bottom grate. I use sand in the drip pan (controversy, I know) so I don't have to worry about sliding the pan out and refilling the water. With both venst open and the smoker on low the temp is hugging 200 deg, on a 84 deg day. Half way between low and med and I'm running 225. Workin' on my first smoke now, spare ribs. Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas.


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## glocksrock

Grinder said:


> Here's the mod I made after reading the other posters ideas. The vent in the back seemed pathetic so I cut a 4" hole in the top and added a chimney with a damper and painted it with black bbq paint.I used a cast iron frying pan with stainless steel bolts for legs, for the wood pan. I flipped the drip pan rack upside down, so it hangs a little lower. The bigger drip pan I I bought sits on top of the rack leaving room to drop wood chunks into the burn pan below. Since I flipped the drip pan rack upside down, the drip pan just fits under the bottom grate. I use sand in the drip pan (controversy, I know) so I don't have to worry about sliding the pan out and refilling the water. With both venst open and the smoker on low the temp is hugging 200 deg, on a 84 deg day. Half way between low and med and I'm running 225. Workin' on my first smoke now, spare ribs. Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas.


Did you drill holes in your frying pan to insert the bolts? How hard is it to drill through cast iron?


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## otis857

Hey Grinder, Nice stack & pan mod. Did you notice an improvement in air flow too? The stack was an improvement on mine, but Im still going to look for some vents to install when the AZ sun dies down. It hit 117 degrees here last week, so Im hibernating under the A/C til October.

Glocksrock, Cast iron is not hard to drill through with a good bit and low speed drill or drill press. Just be sure to drill smaller pilot holes first.The nice thing about using bolts is that you can easily adjust the height as needed. Adding the bolts directly to the pan made for a very clean modification too.

I do wish Masterbuilt would look at forums like this one to see what real world people are doing to their products to improve them and incorporate some of these designs. Pretty cheap R&D !!


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## grinder

Thanks Otis, I liked your idea of the stack and figured venting through the top would promote even better air flow. I researched the MB on this site before buying it and read about every ones' complaints and the mods they made. I didn't bother trying it out first, so I don't have a comparison. When I was testing it out I had lots of smoke rolling out both vents, so the air must be flowing. I thought about putting in a lower vent, not really sure that it needs it, though.

Glocksrock, Yes, the bolts go through the pan, with a nut above and below, so the height can be adjusted, somewhat. The stainless bolts I found are only threaded about 1/3 of their length. 3" bolts were too long and the wood wasn't smoking at 225 deg. I switched to 2 1/2" bolts with the adjuster nut all the way down and that's working really well. Otis is correct about drilling cast iron, I would add to use cutting oil to help clear out chips and keep the bits cooler.


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## jimmyjames

Only had my XL a week but have smoked chicken and just yesterday a brisket, my first whole brisket.  Turned out great.  I put a small rectangular pan on top of the raised ribs in the smoke pan to keep ash and wood out of the burner.  Seems like maybe the thing to do is drill some more holes in the sides where the rack bracket holes are and use the included water pan and rack as the smoke pan.  I use a lasagna pan for a water/drip pan.  Can't see putting any type of pan over the burner completely to where it covers it up.  Cooking a butt or picnic on Labor day. Cheers!


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## exhaustedspark

I have used a old used cast iron pan and lid that i drilled wholes in to use and it alway worked fine. I can use with lid when i need and dont use when i dont.

I do not have a mes. The only store bought i have had was a little chief and a big chief smoker. Currently makeing a UDS out of water pressure tank.

Got impatiant today and smoking some cheese in a partialy built tank. Around here (Washington state) the second hand stores have a lot of cast iron from Japan etc that can be picked up pretty cheap.

Love the Smoke. Live the Smoke

Karl


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## dewetha

well here is my first MOD. I am running some smoke/heat tests now.

I added a 10 x 20 cast iron skillet. I ma thinking it will even out the heat and make a good base to add smoker boxes or maybe chunks right on it.I am also hoping this big hunk of metal will retain heat. I suppose you can get one at a swap meet or second hand store but I have little to no patients when I want to do something so I bought it.

I may need to raise the skillet after some testing.

here are my pics:


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## dewetha

as you can see, I was so exited to try it, I didn't clean it out first. LOL.

smoked great for the test. now I really need to improve the air flow


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## dewetha

here is my smokestack mod finished just in time to BBQ for the weekend. I purchased a replacement smoke stack from char-griller .$16 + shipping. it is made for a barrel type smoker. I have no metal working skills and half ass handyman skills. i beat it flat as I could and offest it as much as possible. so it's not perfectly straight but it will do. I sealed it off with some high temp silicone.

2 mods down more to go!







there is a nut between the cabinet and flange so it won't go anywhere.


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## glocksrock

Grinder said:


> Here's the mod I made after reading the other posters ideas. The vent in the back seemed pathetic so I cut a 4" hole in the top and added a chimney with a damper and painted it with black bbq paint.I used a cast iron frying pan with stainless steel bolts for legs, for the wood pan. I flipped the drip pan rack upside down, so it hangs a little lower. The bigger drip pan I I bought sits on top of the rack leaving room to drop wood chunks into the burn pan below. Since I flipped the drip pan rack upside down, the drip pan just fits under the bottom grate. I use sand in the drip pan (controversy, I know) so I don't have to worry about sliding the pan out and refilling the water. With both venst open and the smoker on low the temp is hugging 200 deg, on a 84 deg day. Half way between low and med and I'm running 225. Workin' on my first smoke now, spare ribs. Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas.


Where did you get the chimney from, I'd like to do a mod just like that as well, also what did you use to seal/secure it?


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## dewetha

it looks good


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## otis857

HI Dewetha,

How did the flat cast iron griddle work out for you? Did it help with below 225 degree temps? I may look at this as a way to lower the low temp readings and work as a heat sink too. Where did you pick it up and for how much? Im still fighting getting the smoker to go below 225 without the burner going out, and this looks like it may be an answer by covering more of the burner area than a cast iron skillet does. The stack mod looks good too.


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## dewetha

I have not tried to go lower than 225 deg intentionally :) but it does work as a nice heat sink and I think it evens out the heat as well. I did have an issue with the flame going out before I did this and have not since. could be a coincidence but worth trying. I picked mine up at bed bath and beyond because of coupons. i probably could have picked one up cheaper somewhere if i looked around. in the end it was about 30 bucks for me. it was something like 10 x 20.


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## jmonty580

I just bought this smoker and I'm getting ready to do a few pork butts really soon and I'm afraid that what factory stuff wont be good enough to get the job done.  Should I get a cast iron skillet right away?  Is there anything I can rest it on right away to make it work or do I need to create some sort of mod to make sure its going to burn wood and not create tons of white smoke.  Any advice would help.


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## glocksrock

Jmonty580 said:


> I just bought this smoker and I'm getting ready to do a few pork butts really soon and I'm afraid that what factory stuff wont be good enough to get the job done.  Should I get a cast iron skillet right away?  Is there anything I can rest it on right away to make it work or do I need to create some sort of mod to make sure its going to burn wood and not create tons of white smoke.  Any advice would help.


Yes, get a cast iron skillet right away, and it will be ok to just set it on top of the wood chip pan that it comes with. Or you can drill holes in the pan and install bolts in it to raise it up. I used a 10" skillet that I got from Big Lots for cheap and it works great, just make sure if you get a 10" skillet that you put the holes at the very edge of it so your bolts have enough clearance around the burner, or just get a 12" skillet.


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## jmonty580

Thanks glocksrock!  I'm sure i have a pan in the house I can sub for the water pan.  Not very handy, I'll see if my neighbor can help me put the holes in the pan.  Gotta add that to my list of things to get this weekend so i'm ready to fire it up.


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## glocksrock

I just bought a Wilton lasanga pan from walmart for my water pan, and cut and bent the bars so that it would fit. Drilling the holes in the cast iron skillet is easy, just don't drill at too high of a speed, and drill smaller pilot holes first. I would use 4" bolts that way you can raise or lower the pans height as needed... when smoking in colder weather you need to turn the gas up, so you raise the pan higher so your wood doesn't burn too quickly.


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## dewetha

to add to Glocksrocks comment. make sure you use Stainless and not those cheap zinc bolts.


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## otis857

Jmonty580

   I think you will enjoy this smoker with a few mods like mentioned here. I used an old bbq grate to set the frying pan on raised up with 5/16ths bolts. Using bolts directly in the skillet will work well too, just make sure to space them where it wont interfere with pulling the pan out to dump the ashes while its hot
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






.    On a long smoke like pork butts, you will need to pull it out to dump the ash and add more wood. Also, ditch the OEM water pan in favor of something bigger. I used a 4" deep restaurant heat table pan and even it needs water added on long smokes.

I got carried away  with mine and insulated and repainted it as well as adding the chimney, but I tend to do the overtweaking thing. But hey, this is as much a hobby as well as a way to make ya some tasty vittles.


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## jmonty580

Thanks otis.

i seasoned it and fired it up for the first time this past weekend.  Made some country style ribs. Came out ok, not incredibly tender though. I didnt marinate them though just seasoned them up and let them sit for a few hours and then into the smoker. 

I bought a cast iron pan as some suggested and just sat it on top of the existing chip tray and that seemed to work good for me.  instead of emptying the pan in mid smoke though when it was time to add more chips I just put them on top of the ashes, is that ok? Or do the ashes really needs to be emptied?  Water pan went dry on me twice. I definetely have to figure out soemthing to keep it full, some sort of replacement is defientely in line.  Other than that the process didnt seem overly hard.  Kept temp pretty well. Smoke didnt get out of control.  Meat had a ton of hickory smoky flavor. All in all a good expeiernce. I hope the pork butt smoke i'm gonig to do either this weekend or early next week comes out good too.


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## glocksrock

Leaving the ashes in the pan is ok, just empty them when you are done cooking and everything has cooled. When I made ribs in my smoker the ribs weren't as tender as I wanted, but I recently read on here that using water in the pan causes things to take longer to cook, so when I made ribs in my new electric smoker for the first time, I did everything the same as usual except left the water pan empty, and they turned out perefect... so my suggestion is to either use water and cook longer, or just don't use water in the pan at all, try both ways and see what you like best. I just did a couple of butts this past weekend and didn't use water and the pulled pork was just as good as when I used water previously, so I think going forward I'll not use water, as my food has been just as juicy and tender as it was when I used water, but it cooked quicker.


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## grinder

Got the parts from the local plumbing store. Used a 4" A collar to go down through the top of the smoker. It has the tabs that bend over to hold it in place. I bought stainless zip screws but, didn't need them. I drilled two holes in the chimney and added a damper. The chimney slides over the A collar, it didn't need screws, nice snug fit. I sprayed with high temp paint and sealed around the base of the A collar with furnace cement. Cost $10 for parts not including the paint and cement I had kicking around.


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## kc jayhawk 78

Kick arse smoker ! Just did my first smoke the other day. Wings, legs and quarter legs. All came out great. Next up ribs n fatties. Will post q view. Sooooo much easier to deal with than charcoal. Apple,cherry, n hickory ! Happy fat man here ! :biggrin:


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## philh

Only mod I did on mine besides the cast iron pan was to replace the thermometer on the front door. I went to academy & purchased one of theirs. It fit without any drilling.. It is usually within a degree or two of my internal wireless probe..


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## 53rdcard

To anyone looking for a ready made smoke stack for your smoker, that has a adjustable baffle and rain shield. Read on.

My new masterbuilt XL is coming tomorrow, I'm upgrading from a Lowe's master forge dual door, and the master forge has a smoke stack on the top, that has 3 bolt holes and a flange for surface mounting on top of the smoker, because i still want to use my master forge later i called the service department for the master forge and found out that you can order that stack for $12 with $9 shipping, so for $21 you can have a nice 2.5" dia stack and the only mod you have to do to mount it is drill some holes, and put some high temp gasket sealer under it.

I was also thinking that if you wanted to put the durarock that some people have inside the smoker as well, you can cut the piece to fit the top so that its edges set on the durarock you have running up the sides, and drill the holes for the stack through the durarock as well as the top of the smoker, get some large dia washers to use when you bolt the stack to the top, and it will help support the durarock in the center so no other reinforcement should be needed.

Least that is what i am going to try when the stack i ordered comes in, they said 7-10 days for delivery.

If you want to see what the stack looks like, look for the master forge double door smoker at lowes, you can zoom in on the photo to get a better view, and as far as i know the 2 different models of the smoker both use the same stack

Ordering information for the stack

Service Dept # (800) 963-0211 hrs 8am-6pm M-T 8am-5pm F EST

The lowes model number is 0190449

They said that they didnt use the model number for the part but used the item description but here are both

Smoker Stack - 302-02009-00

On the assembly instructions its reference id is H


----------



## jakethessnake

Good to hear on the Lowes stack, I'll definitely be doing that. My last mod involved attaching a charbroil side box for using charcoal, or bigger chunks. I had to shorten the factory legs on the Masterbuilt so they were perfectly vertical, otherwise it interfered with the side box mating up flat. After that, it was just a matter of butting it up to the Masterbuilt body, tracing the entrance and cutting it with a jigsaw. I used the hardware that came with the Charbroil unit to attach it. The only thing I really need to do is figure out a good tuning plate setup so the right side of my smoker isn't so much hotter than the other. Doing this mod also gives you a really good spot to put your A-maze-n box as well. I've ran it with gas since I've done this and it still works great. The only real down fall is the finish on the side box, it bubbled up on the first use, it's pretty common and looks pretty bad now. I'll eventually strip it down and try a better paint at some point.













Wow, I really need to clean this thing


----------



## bdnannac

Just got mine this week.  Replaced the stock water and chip pans.  Got myself a Maverick 732 from Todd.  During seasoning I tested my temps and it was too high.  Went to Lowes with my wife looking for stuff to do the needle valve.  Made the mistake of trying to let the guy help me.  In front of my wife he tells us how dangerous it was for me to try this.  Of course, she freaks out and I end up leaving and telling her I can find a safer way.  Found the kit through the link here in the forums.  Can't wait for that to come. 

Will insulating the inside with cement backer board help keep the temps down?  And I'm wondering if more air flow with help keep down temps by adding a smoke stack.  Just wondering if I'm missing something.  Thanks.


----------



## 53rdcard

Got the smoke stack in, and installed, put the cement board as insulation inside it, but have it removed for now as the outside temp is in the high 80's low 90's around here, and getting the internal temp down to 225 is impossible with the board in it. put RTV high temp silicone gasket maker around the door to stop the leaks, replaced the water pan with a roaster pan mentioned above, was lucky enough to already have that, and filled it with sand, raised the stock chip tray and put ceramic bricks in it to help with temp regulation and to act as a buffer between the burner and the rest of the smoker. Found that the AMNPS will fit perfectly next to the roaster pan, and burns just fine for a long smoke, only thing is, while you can start it outside of the smoker, you will have to get it to make at least some small flames once you move it, or it will go out, not sure if its the coals getting moved around or the difference in O2 when it is inside, but once you re-lite it, it works fine for the rest of the smoke, and the internal temp doesn't cause it all to burn, i have in testing gotten the temp up to 350 and it still burned as normal. And last i built a cart with shelves for it (but still need to stain or paint it), Love the smoker so far, had a master forge dual door, and upgraded to this one, main difference is the size, other then that they are very similar in use.


----------



## fishnhnter

Grinder,

I'm new here but just bought an XL and am reading through all of the mods here. It looks to me like the most important cabinet mod is a vent stack. Your's is pretty much exactly what I had in mind.  The only difference is that I already have the material I need to amke the mod in 3" vs. 4" size.  In your opinion, would a 3" stack be adequate?


----------



## fishnhnter

Has anyone here tried adding Hardibacker to the exterior of the unit instaed of the interior? It seems that the insulating characteristics would be about the same, easier to install and maybe less messy for the grease?????


----------



## jus256

53rdcard said:


> Got the smoke stack in, and installed, put the cement board as insulation inside it, but have it removed for now as the outside temp is in the high 80's low 90's around here, and getting the internal temp down to 225 is impossible with the board in it. put RTV high temp silicone gasket maker around the door to stop the leaks, replaced the water pan with a roaster pan mentioned above, was lucky enough to already have that, and filled it with sand, raised the stock chip tray and put ceramic bricks in it to help with temp regulation and to act as a buffer between the burner and the rest of the smoker. Found that the AMNPS will fit perfectly next to the roaster pan, and burns just fine for a long smoke, only thing is, while you can start it outside of the smoker, you will have to get it to make at least some small flames once you move it, or it will go out, not sure if its the coals getting moved around or the difference in O2 when it is inside, but once you re-lite it, it works fine for the rest of the smoke, and the internal temp doesn't cause it all to burn, i have in testing gotten the temp up to 350 and it still burned as normal. And last i built a cart with shelves for it (but still need to stain or paint it), Love the smoker so far, had a master forge dual door, and upgraded to this one, main difference is the size, other then that they are very similar in use.


Where did you purchase the chimney?

Edit: Never mind.  If I would have read a couple of posts higher in the thread, I would have seen the answer.  Nice mods.  I may build a similar cart.  I have to figure out where I am going to put this in my garage.  They built this house with a two car garage instead of a two and a half.


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## 53rdcard

If you want to build a similar cart, for mine i built it to mirror closely the dimensions of the smoker so i could get a 60-65 inch standard grill cover and use it for the entire thing. so its pretty wide, and i had to use 6 casters to make it work otherwise the weight of the smoker bent the center boards on the base, i could probably have used 2x4's and avoided that, but i had a big pile of scrap wood from where i built my sister in law a crib, toddler bed, full size bed, and changing table/dresser for her newborn (I'm a woodworker) so i pretty much just built the cart from leftovers, its why i had the slats for around the propane tank, those are very thin and pretty much don't do anything but add looks. its a total of 60 inches wide x 44 inches tall.

The nice thing about this smoker is, if you need to spray something on the food inside it and you were thinking ahead when you put the food in it, you can just open the stock top vent and stick the tip of the spray bottle in it, so you don't have to open it to spray the food.

and for those that want to know the chimney is 2.5 inches dia, i ended up having to use a jigsaw with a metal blade to make the hole, a hole saw i got from home depot wouldn't do it, it just gave me a groove to work with. And i put the same RTV gasket maker under the chimney as i did around the door, more to give it a seal for water then anything else.


----------



## bdnannac

I wanted to add that stack to mine.  The cover I got from Amazon fits nice and snug.  Not sure If I should put on the stack and cut the cover to fit over it. 

I need to make a temp cart for mine too.


----------



## 53rdcard

I ended up getting the charbroil cover that others on this site have said fit the smoker perfectly, and here is what it looks like fitting over the stack

I also included a photo of the stack so you can see it up close, mine came pretty quick, i ordered it on a Tuesday and it arrived on a Friday. the screws that held the handle to the baffle adjuster and the screw that sets the tension for the adjuster were loose, but after tightening them, it works great.


----------



## jus256

53rdcard said:


> If you want to build a similar cart, for mine i built it to mirror closely the dimensions of the smoker so i could get a 60-65 inch standard grill cover and use it for the entire thing. so its pretty wide, and i had to use 6 casters to make it work otherwise the weight of the smoker bent the center boards on the base, i could probably have used 2x4's and avoided that, but i had a big pile of scrap wood from where i built my sister in law a crib, toddler bed, full size bed, and changing table/dresser for her newborn (I'm a woodworker) so i pretty much just built the cart from leftovers, its why i had the slats for around the propane tank, those are very thin and pretty much don't do anything but add looks. its a total of 60 inches wide x 44 inches tall.
> 
> The nice thing about this smoker is, if you need to spray something on the food inside it and you were thinking ahead when you put the food in it, you can just open the stock top vent and stick the tip of the spray bottle in it, so you don't have to open it to spray the food.
> 
> and for those that want to know the chimney is 2.5 inches dia, i ended up having to use a jigsaw with a metal blade to make the hole, a hole saw i got from home depot wouldn't do it, it just gave me a groove to work with. And i put the same RTV gasket maker under the chimney as i did around the door, more to give it a seal for water then anything else.


Did you have any trouble getting the AMNPS to stay lit before you added the chimney?


----------



## 53rdcard

Not really, the only thing that i have found is, you can light it outside of the smoker, but once you move it, you have to re-light it. my guess is, that it has something to do with either the coals being moved around, or a difference in O2 once it is inside.

The one thing that i have noticed is, it has to be as far to the side as it can get to not ignite from the heat of the burner


----------



## jus256

FYI. Yesterday I emailed Masterbuilt through it's website.  I let them know that one of my screws for the handle wouldn't screw in.  The threads in the handle must have been bad.  I also read recently that some people question the durability of the burner.  I requested a replacement for the handle and asked for burner.  They responded today that they are going to ship tomorrow via Fed Ex or UPS ground.


----------



## bdnannac

53rdcard said:


> I ended up getting the charbroil cover that others on this site have said fit the smoker perfectly, and here is what it looks like fitting over the stack
> 
> I also included a photo of the stack so you can see it up close, mine came pretty quick, i ordered it on a Tuesday and it arrived on a Friday. the screws that held the handle to the baffle adjuster and the screw that sets the tension for the adjuster were loose, but after tightening them, it works great.


Guess that's the ticket.  Thanks man.  Going to order the chimney.


----------



## jus256

I am about to start constructing my cart.  I bought some locking casters from Harbor Freight.  I'd actually like to add tires similar to the 10" tire below but I don't know where I could get or how I can add an axle.  I'd like to be able to move it to my back yard from the garage if possible.  It would be difficult to move over grass with casters.  If no one has any ideas, I'll continue with my original plan.


----------



## jd2220

I am a newbie and would like to order a complete LPG hose assembly with needle valve already installed as I am concened with trying to splice my own hose assembly.

Below are some suggestions I have seen in previous threads.  I am not sure what PSI I need to get and whether the coupling (thread) on the end that screws to the burner assembly is universal or a particular size.

Any advice from Masterbuild XL owners will be greatly appreciated.  Also, if anyone has other suggestions please include them.

Thanks in advance.

http://bayouclassicdepot.com/propane_regulator_kit.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-30-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B0043DHJKY/ref=pd_sbs_ol_5


----------



## 53rdcard

You could check home depot or lowe's for a pipe of the right diameter for the wheels at least if the wheels are just as pictured and have the barrings in the center.

For that matter if you can find a bolt of the right dia you could just bolt the wheels directly to your cart by drilling holes in the wood


----------



## formerjarhead

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and fairly new to smoking. I am selling some stuff so I can get a XL which hopefully will be by the end of the week. My question is I have a POS Brinkman which is lightly used. Will the water bowl from that work on this smoker? I figure it won't be good for placing over the burner to put wood because the sides are too high but I thought maybe this might work as a water bowl, has anyone tried it? If not I can be the guinea pig. I am not opposed to buying something better if need be but if this works I am all about saving the money for the next experiment. Thanks for any advice.


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## jimmyjames

Nothing wrong with a Brinkman gas smoker.  It smoked better and cooked faster than my Master Built.  Going to buy another one when they go on sale soon at Home Depot for end of summer sale.  Worst decision I ever made was to get this Master Built as far as cooking butts goes.  Now ribs and shoulders are a different story and it works great as an oven but the butts I cooked on my little Brinky were way better tasting and cooked way faster and were still moist and tender.


----------



## jakethessnake

Latest mods, holes to run my temp probes through. I used 1/8" ip thread zinc plated steel nipples with brass nuts and "roughly" cut them to fit. If you go short enough like I did, the probes will slide right on through the bend. I have the Maverick ET-73, and ET-7, I've heard the newer ET-732 has a thicker probe, so ymmv. I need to buy another 73 since i really dont care for my 7 and the 73 is quite a bit cheaper than the newer one and has served me well the last 4 years (still working fine actually). If they leak too bad when not in use, I'll just stuff some fireplace gasket in them as a plug.













IMG_1907_zps87b1eac2.jpg



__ jakethessnake
__ Sep 22, 2012


















IMG_1908_zps43afdf93.jpg



__ jakethessnake
__ Sep 22, 2012


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## backyardkcq

Have you guys done any mods to bring the temps low enough to cold smoke in this model? Possibley with a needle valve and AMZNPS or something of that nature?


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## spoolinaz

With my t-stat mod, I am able to get 145 pretty easily with 70 or less ambient. If you want to cold smoke, just get an AMZN tube smoker. Just did some BBB with mine. Didn't even turn the smoker on.


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## caseyp

I just got my Masterbuilt XL yesterday and have already changed the temp gauge out and plan on doing a few more mods to it. I definitely want to build a cart for it to move it around and so it sits a little higher than it is. I may order a stack for the top of it too, my mind will be made up on ordering a stack this weekend when I'm able to smoke something with it and see how it does. I just got done preseasoning it this afternoon.

Has anybody ever hooked one of these Masterbuilt XL's up to natural gas? The house we are moving to has a pole sticking out of the ground close to the shop in the back yard and it has a natural gas line in it. I've had thoughts of hooking the smoker up to it so I won't have to go get propane all the time. I don't know what mods I would need to do in order to hook it up, not even sure if it is possible.


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## caseyp

I just answered my own question by searching Google. Converting the smoker to natural gas is going to be a breeze.


----------



## spoolinaz

CaseyP said:


> I just answered my own question by searching Google. Converting the smoker to natural gas is going to be a breeze.


Honestly, the easiest thing to do is to remove the regulator and hose from the valve assembly, and plumb the NG line to it. You will find alot of people drilling out their orifices, but in my experience, the Masterbuilt burner burns too hot anyway. The NG will not burn as hot as the propane, but we are talking about smoking low and slow, 325* tops.If I were to do mine again, I would not drill the orifice.


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## nitro195601

Where did you order your chimney? I have looked for one of these but no luck finding one.


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## jakethessnake

53rdcard said:


> To anyone looking for a ready made smoke stack for your smoker, that has a adjustable baffle and rain shield. Read on.
> 
> My new masterbuilt XL is coming tomorrow, I'm upgrading from a Lowe's master forge dual door, and the master forge has a smoke stack on the top, that has 3 bolt holes and a flange for surface mounting on top of the smoker, because i still want to use my master forge later i called the service department for the master forge and found out that you can order that stack for $12 with $9 shipping, so for $21 you can have a nice 2.5" dia stack and the only mod you have to do to mount it is drill some holes, and put some high temp gasket sealer under it.
> 
> I was also thinking that if you wanted to put the durarock that some people have inside the smoker as well, you can cut the piece to fit the top so that its edges set on the durarock you have running up the sides, and drill the holes for the stack through the durarock as well as the top of the smoker, get some large dia washers to use when you bolt the stack to the top, and it will help support the durarock in the center so no other reinforcement should be needed.
> 
> Least that is what i am going to try when the stack i ordered comes in, they said 7-10 days for delivery.
> 
> If you want to see what the stack looks like, look for the master forge double door smoker at lowes, you can zoom in on the photo to get a better view, and as far as i know the 2 different models of the smoker both use the same stack
> 
> Ordering information for the stack
> 
> Service Dept # (800) 963-0211 hrs 8am-6pm M-T 8am-5pm F EST
> 
> The lowes model number is 0190449
> 
> They said that they didnt use the model number for the part but used the item description but here are both
> 
> Smoker Stack - 302-02009-00
> 
> On the assembly instructions its reference id is H





Nitro195601 said:


> Where did you order your chimney? I have looked for one of these but no luck finding one.


From the last page. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do for a chimney, I just dont like having it right on the top after getting so used to setting things up there. From a design point, it's the perfect spot, and much better than the stock rear exit one. I get a real nasty draft through mine as it is.


----------



## onytay

53rdcard said:


> I ended up getting the charbroil cover that others on this site have said fit the smoker perfectly, and here is what it looks like fitting over the stack
> 
> I also included a photo of the stack so you can see it up close, mine came pretty quick, i ordered it on a Tuesday and it arrived on a Friday. the screws that held the handle to the baffle adjuster and the screw that sets the tension for the adjuster were loose, but after tightening them, it works great.


I really like the chimney, where can I get it?


----------



## cavediver

Onytay said:


> I really like the chimney, where can I get it?


Originally Posted by *53rdcard* 


To anyone looking for a ready made smoke stack for your smoker, that has a adjustable baffle and rain shield. Read on.

My new masterbuilt XL is coming tomorrow, I'm upgrading from a Lowe's master forge dual door, and the master forge has a smoke stack on the top, that has 3 bolt holes and a flange for surface mounting on top of the smoker, because i still want to use my master forge later* i called the service department for the master forge and found out that you can order that stack for $12 with $9 shipping, so for $21 you can have a nice 2.5" dia stack and the only mod you have to do to mount it is drill some holes, and put some high temp gasket sealer under it.*

I was also thinking that if you wanted to put the durarock that some people have inside the smoker as well, you can cut the piece to fit the top so that its edges set on the durarock you have running up the sides, and drill the holes for the stack through the durarock as well as the top of the smoker, get some large dia washers to use when you bolt the stack to the top, and it will help support the durarock in the center so no other reinforcement should be needed.

Least that is what i am going to try when the stack i ordered comes in, they said 7-10 days for delivery.

If you want to see what the stack looks like, look for the master forge double door smoker at lowes, you can zoom in on the photo to get a better view, and as far as i know the 2 different models of the smoker both use the same stack

Ordering information for the stack

Service Dept # (800) 963-0211 hrs 8am-6pm M-T 8am-5pm F EST

The lowes model number is 0190449

They said that they didnt use the model number for the part but used the item description but here are both

Smoker Stack - 302-02009-00

On the assembly instructions its reference id is H

Hello all,

My wonderful wife bought me a Masterbuild to replace our failing electric smoker.  I've assembled it and run through the seasoning process, and hope to start using it next weekend.  Thanks to all that have posted your modifications here; there are several on my to-do list before Saturday!


----------



## ripper998

Hey guys, couple of stupid questions from a rookie.  Just bought an XL this weekend and seasoned it out.  Have a bayou classic needle valve/regulator coming to me that I bought off ebay, also did the cast iron skillet for the wood chips and would love to do a smoke stack since I have ALOT of wind in my back yard. 

So my questions, the cast iron pan I put right in the supplied chip pan, why would you want to raise it higher as I see some of you have?  What is the benefit? 

Dont think I am going to do the backerboard inside as it gets crazy hot here in the summer in San Antonio, but thinking about sealing the door.  How helpful is that?  What are you using?

I see someone did a smoke stack off the back vents, what parts did you use and where did you get it?

Thats about all I have, thanks in advance!


----------



## schmitzmoke

Ripper998, read on for a few tips that will set you on your way,,,

Here's my review of this smoker

See http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/products/masterbuilt-gas-smoker-xl/reviews/   for other reviews that have all your answers

A list of very simple mods this unit needs

An 8" cast fry pan ($10 at WallyMart) for wood chunks placed on this upside down grilling Wok found at a yard sale for a buck. Tossed the original chip pan, it's worthless.













non_stick_grill_wok__31847_zoom.jpg



__ schmitzmoke
__ Aug 20, 2012






A few pieces of varying sized angle iron to lift the cast fry pan, this moves the cast fry pan away from the burner providing better heat control for your wood chunks. It's very important to get the heat just right for the wood chunks, the wood must heat up and _slowly_ let the good thin blue smoke out. The chunks must never openly burn, (bad white smoke, your meat will taste like a car fire)
A nice smooth 3/8" bead of Silicone around the door frame that seals the door perfectly.
A large disposable foil water pan that doubles as a drip'ins catcher.
Wheels, they make it so easy to move around. ($2 ea at Harbor Freight)
Some left over ceramic tile siliconed to the top of the smoker to protect the top and hold some heat, it works great as a warmer!
A few bricks wrapped in foil inside as a thermal mass to hold some heat.
A throw rug to protect the pool deck. ($2 yard sale)
My first smoke, 2 butts and some fresh polish sausage.







Set up for ribs and beer can chicken, I filled the original water pan with sand and stone and covered with foil to transfer heat to the disposable foil water pan, the mass of the sand, rock and water hold a huge amount of heat, it works great!







I found this smoker to be very easy to use and maintain heat in. You can move your temp up or down quickly if needed. Propane usage was minimal. The adjustable shelves inside are great for setting up your smoke. The cleanup was very easy. A large foil drip/water pan and a few pieces of foil on the bottom does the trick. The mod that turned out the best was the wheels! It's sooooo easy to move, even when hot. I added a bungee strap to hold the propane tank on the wheel frame, so its off the deck.The only thing I need to do is find a better spot for my temp monitors. It gets very warm on top with the ceramic tile. I'm thinking about a simple removable shelf on the back of the unit that will act as a heat break. The Stainless Steel doors are only offered on the Sam's Club on-line version of this smoker. I like the look. it matches the rest of my outdoor kitchen. Ive done Chicken, Cornish Hens, Butts, Ribs and Polish Sausage so far with outstanding results. I'm really looking forward to learning more on this smoker. Compared to the Off-Set that I had, this is the way to go. Set the temp, add wood chunks every so often, watch your meat temps and that's all you need to do.

For a cover, I purchased this from Wally-Mart on-line for $20 bucks delivered. So far it's holding up in the Florida summer sun.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/UniFlame-...gMethod=Recommendation:wm:RecentlyViewedItems


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## cavediver

Nice job on the wheels and supporting frame.  1x4 pine?

Small castors probably won't work for me since I'm on a regular deck, but maybe a larger set will do the trick.  I suppose it's be worth the $10-$15 investment to find out since  the existing rollers are next to useless.


----------



## tamarockstar88

I love my masterbuilt smoker but I'm also working out some "bugs" this was my first season smoking and everything I made came out great, I only had a few small problems.

- first problem I came across was with my flame blowing out if it was on low and too windy out. I had my dad build a wind shield out of some wood that fits over the top of the smoker and goes around all sides but still allows for air flow. My flame blew out once and began to baste my meat in propane 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





   Since using the wind shield it hasn't happened again.

- Second, the water pan is small. Drippings were falling and being burnt which is no good, also the volume was quite sad and on long smokes would need to be refilled. I plan on doing what was mentioned at the beginning of the post with lowering a rack and using a large foil pan. That should keep the drippings from falling and being burnt.

- Third, lack of gasket. I lose a lot of smoke around the door, the hole the thermometer goes through, and where the logo is all leak smoke. The door is the only one that concerns me, it also causes a lot of temperature fluctuations depending on the weather and temp I need to run. Nothing a little RTV sealant cant solve.  I love that the door has a 2 position latch, for low temps I can leave the door cracked open and it hangs on the latch.

- fourth. The biggest problem is the wood chip pan. I had one smoke this season that ended up COATED in black soot. At first I thought my smoker wasn't level and the flames were burning incorrectly. I found it was a combination of things. The wood pan sits too low and smothers the flame causing it to burn orange. I was putting a double layer of tin foil in the pan to keep the chips from burning, the vent holes in the wood pan are huge and the chips catch on fire. it's in a terrible spot and is just a bad design. I'm thinking about buying one of the GSOM cast iron wood boxes, looks like it would be the perfect solution to that problem.

Only other problem i've had is that the bottom of the smoker is starting to rust. I was going to take out the burner box to give it a good cleaning but one of the screws is rusted in. So for the winter I plan on cleaning the bottom and throwing on a coat of High temp paint, getting the new wood box, resolving the water pan issue, and putting a gasket around the door. I saw a mod someone else did where they wrapped the smoker in insulation and I might give that a shot too, the metal on this smoker is thin and like I said temperature fluctuations are common (especially in New England weather changes every 5 minutes!) I've learned a lot this year and come next season I should have all the problems fixed.

My only questions are what to use for paint. Obviously some type of high heat paint like an engine paint? also should I just paint the bottom or is it okay to throw a coat inside the whole smoker. I'm just concerned about rust in the future.


----------



## tamarockstar88

Thats awesome! thank you! I'm ordering this right now on amazon, perfect like it should be made for the smoker.   

Here are pictures of my wind shield, I'll also post the measurements if anyone would like to replicate this. It's made of some sort of composite plastic wood so it wont warp or rot. So far it's worked perfectly for me, fits over the top and still have good air flow but blocks the wind from blowing out the burner when I have it on low, thanks dad!













IMG_20130114_142020.jpg



__ tamarockstar88
__ Jan 14, 2013


















IMG_20130114_141947.jpg



__ tamarockstar88
__ Jan 14, 2013






Front - 6" high 30" wide  for control box also cut a hole in the middle for the hose

Sides - 10 1/2 " high 22 1/2" wide

back - 10 1/2 " high 30" wide


----------



## schmitzmoke

Nice job on the wind break, I also have had problems with the wind. I just used some tin foil around the legs as a temporary fix.


----------



## schmitzmoke

Cavediver said:


> Nice job on the wheels and supporting frame.  1x4 pine?
> 
> Small castors probably won't work for me since I'm on a regular deck, but maybe a larger set will do the trick.  I suppose it's be worth the $10-$15 investment to find out since  the existing rollers are next to useless.


Yes, 1x4 pressure treated pine, I simply drilled a large hole with a forstner bit to bury the nut a bolt head in the cross piece. Harbor Freight has all sized wheels that may help you out,,, cheap too.


----------



## tamarockstar88

53rdcard said:


> Got the smoke stack in, and installed, put the cement board as insulation inside it, but have it removed for now as the outside temp is in the high 80's low 90's around here, and getting the internal temp down to 225 is impossible with the board in it. put RTV high temp silicone gasket maker around the door to stop the leaks, replaced the water pan with a roaster pan mentioned above, was lucky enough to already have that, and filled it with sand, raised the stock chip tray and put ceramic bricks in it to help with temp regulation and to act as a buffer between the burner and the rest of the smoker. Found that the AMNPS will fit perfectly next to the roaster pan, and burns just fine for a long smoke, only thing is, while you can start it outside of the smoker, you will have to get it to make at least some small flames once you move it, or it will go out, not sure if its the coals getting moved around or the difference in O2 when it is inside, but once you re-lite it, it works fine for the rest of the smoke, and the internal temp doesn't cause it all to burn, i have in testing gotten the temp up to 350 and it still burned as normal. And last i built a cart with shelves for it (but still need to stain or paint it), Love the smoker so far, had a master forge dual door, and upgraded to this one, main difference is the size, other then that they are very similar in use.


I love this set up. I. ordered the grilling wok others suggested, and the charbroil cover this week, and got a cast iron skillet. Next I'm getting the same smoke stack. Taking the smoker to my friends shop to really sand down the inside, I think I'm going to use high temp grill paint, or just a high temp 2000* engine paint. Don't know which would work best? Plan on cutting the hole for the chimney also, and putting gasket sealer around my doors. I decided not to put the cement board on the inside, I don't think I need that much insulation so only going to insulate the top. I typically get plenty of heat and just want to keep the top temp even. The bricks are a great idea on the bottom and I was thinking instead of putting sand inside the water pan that I could rest it on a half sheet pan of sand. I like the idea of having a heat barrier. I tested my thermometer and it was accurate, I also use an oven thermometer inside and a probe. I love that rack too, it would definitely benefit me in the space I'm set up in and give me a much needed area to work on. My guitarist is a great wood worker and he's going to assist me on the build, mine wouldn't look as nice as yours haha!

And to top it off I'm getting a AMNPS to start cold smoking! I've had a busy work season so I haven't been on the forums for a long time, I didn't realize that was all I needed to cold smoke I thought I needed so much more haa. It's going to be a damn good season this year! Thank you everyone all the ideas are great and this really solved all of the problems I've been having, or should anyways. I will post finished pics once I'm done!


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## cavediver

Paint on the inside of the smoker?


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## smokinberto

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__ Jan 18, 2013






Here's a door mod I made, I hated the latches on the side. I really don't know why Masterbuilt did that to begin with.


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## tamarockstar88

Nice door mod. I like the hinge on the side because I can crack it open, I put a gasket in because there was a lot of smoke leakage and the latch didn't hold the bottom very tight. I have a nice seal on it now though.

I did paint the inside. The bottom was rusting, the sides were fine though. I even had rust on the bottom on the outside. I used grill paint for high temps. My friend uses that on his car projects and says it holds up better than the high temp paint does. It protects against rust really well too. I'm going to build a cart to get it up off the ground, and I have a grill cover coming so that should help prevent this problem in the future.

The other issue I ran into, I took off the whole burner box to sand and paint, and the 4 screws were rusted on. I got 1 of them out, and I broke another one free but the poor design has the screws threaded into this metal rounded bolt that's basically tack welded to the bottom inside of the smoker (I broke the weld before the screw broke free). Moisture got in and rusted them solid! We ended up cutting the screws out and replaced them with screwhead bolts, washers, and nuts. I suggest everyone that has this smoker do that mod. Even if you don't have rust issues, in time I'm sure they would freeze up. It's a really poor design, but easily fixed.


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## lltrevll

Iv did all of the common known mods to my xl however I would like to share this on with SMF. 
I got mt xl 40 back in July of 2012 well about 2 months later I needed a new cabin due to one brass fittings that was bad so masterbuilt sent me a new cabin so I figured why toss the bad one right... ;-). 
Well here it is.













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## bigred7469

Anybody know where to get a cover for this?  All the links in here aren't working!  Thanks!!!!


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## lltrevll

Cover for the materbuilt xl is at Amazon.com. it's not a masterbuilt cover but it fits like a glove and thick.


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## jbomx363

Just to be sure I know what I'm needing to do, the simplest way possible.

1. Get a 8" cast iron skillet.

2. I think I'll go the grilling wok route.

3. Water pan.

I'm assuming I just put the grill wok over the burner, then the cast iron skillet on top of that and that's really all I "need" ?

*EDIT:* After going to the store to look at this and putting the wok in it, it seems that the only thing that is needed is to raise up the skillet about 2 1/2". Seems that anything could be used to get the height needed and the stability.

Maybe just putting the stainless bolts in a 10" skillet would be the better..and cheaper choice. Couldn't you use standard bricks (think they are about 2 1/4") in a square around the burner and place the skillet on them?

For the water pan, I'm thinking to get the lasagna pan at wally world, a whole $5.

Now just need BPS to get mine delivered to the store so I can pick it up. Patience isn't my strong point.


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## tstalafuse

A question on the mods...

I know the "patented" flame disk sucks so everyone is using a cast iron skillet that has to be raised up above the burner.  Is there any reason not to just take a pair of tin snips to the flame disk, cut out the center of it, put the skillet on top of the remaining ring stand and use that to raise the skillet to the correct height?  Or, Is that still to close to the burner?


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## aztexkid

You could do that. IMO it might be a little hott at that level. I left the slots in mine, added an 8" skillet and put 1/4" bolts with nuts in the three legs of the flame pan to be able to adjust the height above the burner.  I have mine set about a half inch up off the smoker floor and get nice TBS most of the time. Hope this helps, ATK


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## jrstout55

I have this smoker also and use the original chip pan with a stainless steel pet watering bowl in it and it works just fine. I have used the wok also without elevating it and it also works well.


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## schmitzmoke

I got this one and it's holding up well in the Florida sun, http://www.walmart.com/ip/UniFlame-...:RecentlyViewedItems&affillinktype=10&veh=aff

Good luck


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## schmitzmoke

lltrevll said:


> Iv did all of the common known mods to my xl however I would like to share this on with SMF.
> I got mt xl 40 back in July of 2012 well about 2 months later I needed a new cabin due to one brass fittings that was bad so masterbuilt sent me a new cabin so I figured why toss the bad one right... ;-).
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## msuiceman

first, awesome mod! I want an extra cabinet now!

second, I believe the smokers are now on sale at bass pro again.... if I didn't miss the sale end, they at least were 159.97

I got mine for 150 a couple years ago when it was on sale.... 160 aint bad.


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## shinny

Onytay said:


> I really like the chimney, where can I get it?


I like the chimney, but can someone explain the benefits of a chimney over the vent in the back? Sorry if I missed it in the thread.


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## lowpro192000

I hate to beat a dead horse, but if I put my skillet on top of the original chip pan that will be fine? also are u guys just putting the chips in the skillet open  or wrapping them in tin foil with holes in it?


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## shinny

lowpro192000 said:


> I hate to beat a dead horse, but if I put my skillet on top of the original chip pan that will be fine? also are u guys just putting the chips in the skillet open  or wrapping them in tin foil with holes in it?


I throw mine in the open pan and have never had a problem.

Edit: I did close the holes under the raised parts of the stock pan and that's what I use.


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## dewetha

Shinny said:


> I like the chimney, but can someone explain the benefits of a chimney over the vent in the back? Sorry if I missed it in the thread.


mostly imperial evidence on my part but once i put a chimney on the unit it drafted so much better that the vent in back


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## pbouc

They are on Sale at Bass Pro for $159.97.  I picked mine up the other day and upon putting it together I was disappointed to see several quality issues.  There were poor welds - one with a sharp piece of slag and one rusty weld. The sheet metal on the face of the body was buckled at the lower corner causing the door not to seal properly.  There were scratches in the paint, paint missing on one of the hinges and rust inside of the smoker.  The box was perfect from shipping so this was obviously an overlooked quality issue at the factory in China.. Sure I could have fixed these things myself but why should I? So this morning I contacted Masterbuilt and they are sending me a new smoker body.  I guess I can use the old smoker body for storage of my wood chips and cooking utensils.  I was thinking of putting it on casters and use it as a supply cabinet and prep station while smoking.

One concern I had while putting together my XL, I noticed that the burner tube is not centered with the valve orifice.  Is this normal?  It appears that I can't center this or make adjustments.


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## tenglish001

Hey everyone, I am trying to get the mods together for my new XL. I just had a couple questions.
 1- What did you use for gasket material to seal the door better? 
2- What is the preferred method to mod the chip tray? Homemade rack or screws.
3- I see a few people have put casters on the legs. Do you mount them to the legs or connect the legs with boards then put the casters? 
4- I bought an 11.5" x14.5 lasagna pan, how was the water mod done? Did you mount the pan length wise or across the box?
Thanks in advance. Tom


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## askance

TEnglish001 said:


> Hey everyone, I am trying to get the mods together for my new XL. I just had a couple questions.
> 1- What did you use for gasket material to seal the door better?
> 2- What is the preferred method to mod the chip tray? Homemade rack or screws.
> 3- I see a few people have put casters on the legs. Do you mount them to the legs or connect the legs with boards then put the casters?
> 4- I bought an 11.5" x14.5 lasagna pan, how was the water mod done? Did you mount the pan length wise or across the box?
> Thanks in advance. Tom


For a chip pan, I purchased a 12" cast iron skillet.  I drilled three holes through the extreme perimiter of the skillet, then put a bolt/nut combo through each hole. With the right length bolts, you can adjust the height of the pan.  (  bolt {------------Nut pan Nut--------), except vertical, not horizontal.  I'm not overly concerned about sealing the door .. the unit holds temperature perfectly and the smoke has to go somewhere.  Seal the door, and all the smoke will go out the back vent.  I honestly haven't had a lack of smoke flavor in any of the smokes I've done.

As far as water pan, just get a big aluminum turkey roaster pan at the supermarket (About $2.00).  Place in on top of the water tray rack.  The only reason I can see doing this is to catch more drippings and not get the bottom of the smoker so dirty.  The best "mod" I can recommend is the Maverick et73 dual sensor thermometer .. it has two probes .. one for the meat and the other clips on to the smoker rack so you know EXACTLY what your smoking temperature is.  It has a remote sending unit so you can monitor from your recliner, and you can set it to alarm when smoker temperature goes above or below specific temperatures.  Also, will alarm when meat reaches a set temperature.  Pretty nice piece of gear for around $35.00.


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## shinny

Askance said:


> For a chip pan, I purchased a 12" cast iron skillet.  I drilled three holes through the extreme perimiter of the skillet, then put a bolt/nut combo through each hole. With the right length bolts, you can adjust the height of the pan.  (  bolt {------------Nut pan Nut--------), except vertical, not horizontal.  I'm not overly concerned about sealing the door .. the unit holds temperature perfectly and the smoke has to go somewhere.  Seal the door, and all the smoke will go out the back vent.  I honestly haven't had a lack of smoke flavor in any of the smokes I've done.
> 
> As far as water pan, just get a big aluminum turkey roaster pan at the supermarket (About $2.00).  Place in on top of the water tray rack.  The only reason I can see doing this is to catch more drippings and not get the bottom of the smoker so dirty.  *The best "mod" I can recommend is the Maverick et73 dual sensor thermometer .. it has two probes .. one for the meat and the other clips on to the smoker rack so you know EXACTLY what your smoking temperature is.  It has a remote sending unit so you can monitor from your recliner, and you can set it to alarm when smoker temperature goes above or below specific temperatures.  Also, will alarm when meat reaches a set temperature. * Pretty nice piece of gear for around $35.00.


Best tool for smoking, grilling and general cooking


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## tlzimmerman

Just an FYI for anyone, tried to order the smokestack today for the masterforge posted above, they are currently out.


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## frank4820

Hi I just got a Masterbuilt XL gas smoker for Father's Day. I have done a few thing, went to stove shop put seal around door work grate ,replace smoke box with a cast  iron pan. Put two quater inch  thick metal on rim and iron pan on top. Now the lowest temp. I can get is 246 f. Is there any way to get lower temp. And not getting smoke I want any help 

                Frank4820


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## tlzimmerman

Can you describe more specifically what type of smoke you are getting?  Not enough, too cloudy and white?  What are you using 

As far as lower temps, I think the best thing you can do is increase the draft with a chimney on top, if you take the flame much lower I think I would have a problem getting the smoke I want especially with a big cast iron pan. Those are both mods that will be going on my new one when I can figure out how to cobble it together.  Until I get it running perfect I will keep using my regular size GOSM.  

Also a larger water pan should help bring temps down a bit, I know alot of people use gravel but I like to run water, the fact that it won't get hotter than 212 degrees is a big factor to me.


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## frank4820

I have a twelve inch cast iron pan I'll go after the water pan, the smoke is lite white now if I take it over 250 I get a bit more. Write now I used a egg smoker get nice smoke, maybe looking for more than I should in the smoke! One more thing I found a cover call Masterbuilt told them were dumb not to have a cover for this unit,like talking to a wall.went to LOWS the cover is called Patio Armor stack chairs cover. 30" L x27"w x48"h nice fit $20.00 check it out

           Frank4820


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## tlzimmerman

What are you using to generate you smoke?  I get white smoke when using chips in my propane smokers like this, I have great luck with larger chunks.

Also are you soaking your wood?


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## frank4820

The gasket for the door I went to a place that sells fireplaces thay have all kinds of gasket and cement


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## aztexkid

How close is the bottom of your skillet/chip pan to the black metal cylinder that the burner is mounted in ?  If it is too close it can hamper draft and affect temps.


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## ps0303

I went from chips to chunks to now pellets in a 12" tube smoker.  The tube smoker was the best investment as I can fill it, light it, and smoke for almost 4 hours before having to refill. Still a great smoke and great flavor.

However, I am now looking to upgrade to a larger smoker that can accommadate a full rack of ribs without having to cut or stand on their side.


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## jrstout55

The maserbuilt XL is the one you want.... does a great job.


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## 1bigken

I keep it simple. I used the stock water pan as my chip holder and place right on top of one it comes with. I use a full length tin for my water pan. Yes, I too have smoke coming from the door but oh well.


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## lowpro192000

I was wondering what kind of aftermarket temp gauge yall were putting in the front to replace the stock piece? also if theres any modifications I would have to do to put a aftermarket gauge in?


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## shinny

lowpro192000 said:


> I was wondering what kind of aftermarket temp gauge yall were putting in the front to replace the stock piece? also if theres any modifications I would have to do to put a aftermarket gauge in?


I use the Maverick E-732. It has two probes, one for the smoker temp and one for the meat temp. I left the stock gauge in and don't pay any attention to it. The Maverick has a remote that you can carry around with you.


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## lowpro192000

I just ordered that 2" gauge that with the red white and blue face. I plan on getting the maverick but I was just trying to find a reliable gauge I could put In the door for the time being


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## ps0303

Try the bluetooth one.  Then you can use your phone instead.


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## dslunceford

jrstout55 said:


> I have this smoker also and use the original chip pan with a stainless steel pet watering bowl in it and it works just fine. I have used the wok also without elevating it and it also works well.


Do you cover the original chip pan or vents at all when using this? I prefer chunks of wood vs chips. During seasoning, the chunks burned fast (understanding that the XL heat was cranked to 400+). During my first smoke, I covered the chip pan with foil, putting rolled foil "cigars" over the chip pan vents to block, and the chunks really didn't get a lot of smoke going at all.

Also, for those using the Maverick thermometers...are you just routing the probe wires out the door frame (it doesn't seem to pinch)?


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## jbomx363

dslunceford said:


> Do you cover the original chip pan or vents at all when using this? I prefer chunks of wood vs chips. During seasoning, the chunks burned fast (understanding that the XL heat was cranked to 400+). During my first smoke, I covered the chip pan with foil, putting rolled foil "cigars" over the chip pan vents to block, and the chunks really didn't get a lot of smoke going at all.
> 
> Also, for those using the Maverick thermometers...are you just routing the probe wires out the door frame (it doesn't seem to pinch)?


IMHO..Toss the original pan, seems a pain to keep foiling it. Just pop the wok over the burner hole and put a skillet on it. Works fine for me and no headaches to worry about. I use chunks and get good smoke.

*I* route my maverick wires out the door frame. Of course, I see some run them out the back and some take off the handle of one side and run through those holes, and some drill holes specifically for them.


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## dewetha

the stock chip pan and water pan are worthless and a big waste of time. do yourself a favor and follow the path others have tread.  there are three, at least, successful mods in this thread. i use a rectangular skillet vs the round but i'm sure they all work great

as for the wires, i plan on doing a typical mod i saw in the WSM mod threads next weekend

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/94076/wsm-mods


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## jd2220

I have used this smoker for over 2 years with wood chunks in a cast iron pan and now want to buy a tube pellet smoker from A Mazen products. 

My question is where to place the tube  pellet smoker. 

Do I put it to either side of the burner at the bottom of the smoker and if so does the tube pellet smoker need to be raised?

Look forward to any and all input.


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## ps0303

I don't have the same smoker as you but mine is propane.  I placed mine on the bottom of the smoker to the left of the burner. It is sort of propped up off of the bottom a bit to allow for air flow all the way around.  I do use a water pan which the folks at A-Mazen- say to put it somewhere below the water pan.  If no water pan I would put the tube on the bottom most rack if available.


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## frank68

Hi All

i had my chip pan welded it 













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__ Jun 25, 2013


















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__ Jun 25, 2013


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## dslunceford

jbomx363 said:


> IMHO..Toss the original pan, seems a pain to keep foiling it. Just pop the wok over the burner hole and put a skillet on it. Works fine for me and no headaches to worry about. I use chunks and get good smoke.
> 
> *I* route my maverick wires out the door frame. Of course, I see some run them out the back and some take off the handle of one side and run through those holes, and some drill holes specifically for them.





dewetha said:


> the stock chip pan and water pan are worthless and a big waste of time. do yourself a favor and follow the path others have tread.  there are three, at least, successful mods in this thread. i use a rectangular skillet vs the round but i'm sure they all work great
> 
> as for the wires, i plan on doing a typical mod i saw in the WSM mod threads next weekend
> 
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/94076/wsm-mods


So I put a bead of high heat silicone  around the door frame (had to get from Amazon because it was considered a seasonal item at HD/Lowes and other local hardware stores). Like that it's black and figured withstanding to 500 degrees is fine.

Leaning toward the wok/cast iron pan method for smoker, but going to try one thing first. Found an old 5" x 10" cast iron smoke box for my gas grill that I hadn't been using. Little rusty, so knocked off the loose rust a bit and have propped it up on the stock chip pan prongs, using foil cigars to block the vents on the pan. Will see how that runs before buying the wok.


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## no peek n

IT is real easy, why does every body over engineer the MB XL, (1) keep the wood chip pan where it is ,over the flame,(2) get a 8-10" cast iron pan at Wally World, set it on top of the wood chip pan, with a Chunk of wood,(3) leave the door Therm alone, and get the Mav ET-732, (4) feed the probes through the back of the smoke vent, put the BBQ probe off to the side on the very top rack, (heat rises) and the FOOD probe in the Meat and shut the door and STARE at the Remote MAV unit ,open a BEER and go watch TV.......KISS.













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## lowpro192000

when running the wires through the back, is it ok to sit the deal the wires plug into on top of the smoker or will the heat mess it up?


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## dustem88

hey jd2220,raise tube if u can for better oxygen flow around tube so it burns more efficient, which size tube did u get ?


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## no peek n

lowpro192000 said:


> when running the wires through the back, is it ok to sit the deal the wires plug into on top of the smoker or will the heat mess it up?


Sorry but your ??'s are unclear, If you are saying to set the Transmitter on top of the MB, the answer is yes, Mine hangs on the fence in the back. away from the heat and smoke..


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## lowpro192000

That's what I meant, the transmitter. I wasn't sure how long the wires where and didn't know how far way u could get it from the smoker. I didn't know if u could just put the transmitter on top of the smoker itself or would the heat mess it up?


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## jbomx363

I wouldn't place it on the smoker itself, too hot IMO.


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## dewetha

i hang my transmitter off the handle and it been fine.


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## no peek n

Yes way to hot, the probes are about 3' long maybe less, I even put my Transmitter & receiver in a quart ziploc so My greasy fingers and bbq smoke don't Muck them up, 













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__ Feb 27, 2012


















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## dslunceford

For those that prefer a dry cook (empty or sand filled water pan), are you using a regulator to get the heat down? Just put some halfed chickens on and wanted to keep it around 275 for a couple of hours, as I'll be taking to a party and finishing off on the grill. At 10:30 a.m. it was already 100 degrees outside and inside of smoker was 106.

Took it up to 350 before putting the birds in to get smoke going. Was at 250 when I closed her up. At the lowest level of gas, it was still climbing to 320+, so I added some water to the pan (using 20x12 disposable catering pans) and was able to get it where I needed. I wasn't planning to mess with the valve, but wonder if I'm going to have to, or go with some water in the pan when outside temps are higher.


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## jbomx363

dslunceford said:


> For those that prefer a dry cook (empty or sand filled water pan), are you using a regulator to get the heat down? Just put some halfed chickens on and wanted to keep it around 275 for a couple of hours, as I'll be taking to a party and finishing off on the grill. At 10:30 a.m. it was already 100 degrees outside and inside of smoker was 106.
> 
> Took it up to 350 before putting the birds in to get smoke going. Was at 250 when I closed her up. At the lowest level of gas, it was still climbing to 320+, so I added some water to the pan (using 20x12 disposable catering pans) and was able to get it where I needed. I wasn't planning to mess with the valve, but wonder if I'm going to have to, or go with some water in the pan when outside temps are higher.


Your rear vent was open right? (I forgot one time I closed the vent and put the cover on, took cover off, but forgot to open rear vent) I have no problem running mine at low temps, and it's 100 plus 100% humidity here. For chickens at 275 or 300 with an empty pan, if I look at the knob from the halfway point of low/medium point (arrow on know points straight down), a turn it just about a 1/4" or so towards the medium setting.


----------



## schmitzmoke

dslunceford said:


> For those that prefer a dry cook (empty or sand filled water pan), are you using a regulator to get the heat down? Just put some halfed chickens on and wanted to keep it around 275 for a couple of hours, as I'll be taking to a party and finishing off on the grill. At 10:30 a.m. it was already 100 degrees outside and inside of smoker was 106.
> 
> Took it up to 350 before putting the birds in to get smoke going. Was at 250 when I closed her up. At the lowest level of gas, it was still climbing to 320+, so I added some water to the pan (using 20x12 disposable catering pans) and was able to get it where I needed. I wasn't planning to mess with the valve, but wonder if I'm going to have to, or go with some water in the pan when outside temps are higher.


I've never had that problem,,, I can consistently run 200 to 375+ with out any problems. I filled my original water pan with sand and rock and covered it with foil to use as a heat mass. I use a disposable foil pan as a drip'ins catcher placed on top of it, If I want water (steam) then I fill the pan with 1-2" of water,,, other wise I leave it dry.


----------



## jrstout55

I don't cover the vents in the original chip pan, no need to do that. I don't use wood chips I use wood chunks and they do very well.


----------



## jrstout55

dslunceford said:


> Do you cover the original chip pan or vents at all when using this? I prefer chunks of wood vs chips. During seasoning, the chunks burned fast (understanding that the XL heat was cranked to 400+). During my first smoke, I covered the chip pan with foil, putting rolled foil "cigars" over the chip pan vents to block, and the chunks really didn't get a lot of smoke going at all.
> 
> Also, for those using the Maverick thermometers...are you just routing the probe wires out the door frame (it doesn't seem to pinch)?


I don't cover the vents in the original chip pan, no need to do that. I don't use wood chips I use wood chunks and they do very well.


----------



## mangledremainz

53rdcard said:


> I ended up getting the charbroil cover that others on this site have said fit the smoker perfectly, and here is what it looks like fitting over the stack
> 
> I also included a photo of the stack so you can see it up close, mine came pretty quick, i ordered it on a Tuesday and it arrived on a Friday. the screws that held the handle to the baffle adjuster and the screw that sets the tension for the adjuster were loose, but after tightening them, it works great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> IMAG0021.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ 53rdcard
> __ Jun 19, 2012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> IMAG0020.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ 53rdcard
> __ Jun 19, 2012



Just ordered my smokestack today and the total with shipping is now a little over $13. Just heads up on price change. Told the rep I damaged mine when moving. :D


----------



## mangledremainz

Ordered my smoke stack from Master Forge on Monday got it today (Thursday). Total was $13.16.













image.jpg



__ mangledremainz
__ Jul 11, 2013


----------



## tamarockstar88

My MBXL has been running great since the mods, still needs some small tweaking. I tossed the original chip pan and water pan. For the water pan I bought a full sized hotel pan - 
It fits great and holds a lot of water, I also use it a lot in an out of the smoker when I don't need a water pan.

For the chip pan I use a 12" iron skillet that I rest on top of a grill wok. The chips still burn kind of fast so I think I need a little more height, I'm just going to put a couple nuts and bolts in the middle of the grill wok to raise it up a little more. I replaced the bolts for the burner in the bottom of the smoker, I think they originally screwed in through the bottom into the threaded nubs. Poor design, they rusted solid.

I put in the master forge chimney and it works great! better air flow and I think it helps regulate the temp better. Sealed the door with some red RTV, the door seals nice and tight and doesn't leak nearly as bad.

I did re paint the whole smoker. I gave it a good work over with the wire brush wheel and used high temp grill paint. The paints holding up a lot better inside and outside of the smoker than the original paint, however it's already cracked off the bottom again but everywhere else looks great. I also got a cover and it's helped a lot keeping the moisture out.

I plan on attaching a charcoal firebox this year like someone else did on this post. I like the idea of being able to use both charcoal or propane and need more practice with the charcoal. Also thought it would be good to put my amnps inside for cold smokes. I plan on putting in some sort of damper so I can close off the firebox when not in use. Then if I can just build a sweet cart I'll be set!


----------



## jbomx363

Why spend so much on a water pan?

Wally world..mainstays lasagna pan..$4.86.


----------



## jonny smoker

Mangled,

Did you order your smoke stack online? can't seem to find it, can you post the link? Thanks


----------



## mangledremainz

This is the order info from a earlier post that I used to order.

Ordering information for the stack
Service Dept # (800) 963-0211 hrs 8am-6pm M-T 8am-5pm F EST
The lowes model number is 0190449
They said that they didnt use the model number for the part but used the item description but here are both
Smoker Stack - 302-02009-00
On the assembly instructions its reference id is H


----------



## schmitzmoke

TamaRockstar88 said:


> My MBXL has been running great since the mods, still needs some small tweaking. I tossed the original chip pan and water pan. For the water pan I bought a full sized hotel pan -
> It fits great and holds a lot of water, I also use it a lot in an out of the smoker when I don't need a water pan.
> 
> For the chip pan I use a 12" iron skillet that I rest on top of a grill wok. The chips still burn kind of fast so I think I need a little more height, I'm just going to put a couple nuts and bolts in the middle of the grill wok to raise it up a little more. I replaced the bolts for the burner in the bottom of the smoker, I think they originally screwed in through the bottom into the threaded nubs. Poor design, they rusted solid.
> 
> I put in the master forge chimney and it works great! better air flow and I think it helps regulate the temp better. Sealed the door with some red RTV, the door seals nice and tight and doesn't leak nearly as bad.
> 
> I did re paint the whole smoker. I gave it a good work over with the wire brush wheel and used high temp grill paint. The paints holding up a lot better inside and outside of the smoker than the original paint, however it's already cracked off the bottom again but everywhere else looks great. I also got a cover and it's helped a lot keeping the moisture out.
> 
> I plan on attaching a charcoal firebox this year like someone else did on this post. I like the idea of being able to use both charcoal or propane and need more practice with the charcoal. Also thought it would be good to put my amnps inside for cold smokes. I plan on putting in some sort of damper so I can close off the firebox when not in use. Then if I can just build a sweet cart I'll be set!


I like your idea about the external fire box, I was also thinking about this for an amnps to rest in for a cold smoke or even in place or to supplement the wood chunks in my Cast pan. I would love to see pics or a list of the materials that you use to do this. I also like the idea of the stack,,, I just may do this,,,,,,

Check out my wheels that I built, cheap wheels from Harbor Freight, Lowes has some also. It works great!! Best thing I did,,, its so easy to move and store, even when its hot and smoking.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/products/masterbuilt-gas-smoker-xl/reviews/4263


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## 42wla

I have done some modifications to my XL. I need to keep the temps around 170 for smoking some sausage. Not possible with propane. I even have added the needle valve to the gas line. So I picked up a cheap single burner hot plate. After some experiments one burner will only get the internal temp up to 150. Added one more hot plate and now with both set to medium I can maintain 170 all day. I can move it to High and get up to about 200. My AMPS is sitting on a gas stove grate. The cast iron frying pan hold and disburses some of the heat.

My other mods...

1. Welded on all four legs. They had been knocked loose a couple times moving the unit.

2. Added a wheeled base

3. For hot smoking I took a piece of copper tubing drilled multiple tiny holes in it ran it though the grease hole and out to an double aquarium air pump. The AMPS sits on the copper tubing bent into a 'U" shape on the floor next to the burner.

4. Added the gas stove grate to top of burner. I will use the cast iron frying pan occasionally but the grate has a ceramic tile clamped to it the shield the AMPS from direct heat. I would sometimes get flare-ups.

5. Added wool felt tape gasket to doors and frame to seal the unit. I got a huge roll on EBay for cheap.

6. Cut and reweld the water pan frame to accommodate a Stainless hotel pan. The pan is filled with lava rocks I had onhand and is covered. It holds the heat really well and I set a drip pan on top to catch juices.

7. Added the needle valve to the gas line. IMHO this was not really needed. I can adjust the flame with the regular knob by turning it back towards OFF position.













IMG_20130715_093340_244_zps4dc9c798.jpg



__ 42wla
__ Jul 15, 2013


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## afish70

what are the dimensions of your stand?  what did you use to build it?  I am 6' 5" and want to make a stand so mine is a little higher up than it is at stock height.


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## toolmaker1045

IMG_0030[1].JPG



__ toolmaker1045
__ Aug 8, 2013





          I did this to mine closed the vent slots its aluminum I am a toolmaker so i made it at work.

toolmaker1045


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## toolmaker1045

Can you  give me info where you bought it and does it have a part number

toolmaker1045

Normand


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## bigred7469

I just transferred to Japan.  And I fired up the smoker and I now can't get it above 200*F.  Has anybody ever had this issue?


----------



## dewetha

bigred7469 said:


> I just transferred to Japan. And I fired up the smoker and I now can't get it above 200*F. Has anybody ever had this issue?


yes. you have to rest your pressure valve. google may help you  as i can't recall the steps. it easy just disconnecting and re-pressurizing it.

some thing like open the valve to full, open you burners up, close the burners. shit off the tank. disconnect the tank. reconnect the tank, burners off. open Valve to full(should always be open to all the way) open burner to full. light.

just double check those steps.


----------



## bigred7469

Thanks I'll give that a try.


----------



## bigboysgourmet

Anyone know how to convert this puppy to NG?


----------



## spoolinaz

Easy Peasy. Remove the propane hose from the valve assembly and hook it up to a flexible 3/8 flare gas line IIRC(I used a NG grill kit from Home Depot). Hook it all up safe like. Then fire up the smoker and enjoy! You can go through the hassle of removing the gas jet and drilling it out to 1/16 like most would suggest based on the LP to NG gas charts. But unless you need 500 degrees, don't bother. I speak from experience there.


----------



## axlebraker

Meat prob says 180 after 1 hour for my chicken cant be right


----------



## ben paquette

Good ideas everyone, I am going to mod mine tomorrow. I seasoned it today and had the same issue... flare ups. Any way, I will get the parts and get a 12 in cast iron pan.

I was wanting to know what peoples thoughts are on the thermometer. I got it up to 400 or so in the seasoning process( no water pan) and When i put the temp knob back down to low to try and find 250 it stayed much hotter. I am thinking that the temp never went down because I essentially had a fire above the burner that did not go out  due to the wood chips being on fire. I am hoping that after I mod it the flames will dissapear and the temp will be much easier to regulate.

Also, with a 12 inch iron skillet for the wood chips, what is the accurate amount of chips,  and is foil with a few holes necessary?

Any tips on thermometer mods or temp control would be great!

Looking to do some ribs tomorrow for the first time and was going to shoot for 225 or 250 for  3-4 hours with some water or apple juice in a disposable foil pan on the lowest meat rack, ( I have heard the water pan sucks so I was just going to take it out...

Once again I am very greatful for all the info and I can not wait to become a better smoker!


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## mangledremainz

Get the bigger water pan for water and just use the 12" cast iron with no foil. With the bigger water pan the grease will not hit the flame but will fall in the pan. Also when you add the water it will keep the temps lower as well. I would recommend the 3-2-1 method for the ribs as well. Works great! Good luck and happy smoking!


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## ben paquette

Thx Mangled!

I will definitely try the 3-2-1 method on the spare ribs next time.

Today I did 2 racks of spar ribs, one rack of Baby backs  (all three racks smoked for 4 hours at 225-250) 

smoked two potatoes  for last two hours

for my first  attempt with the MBXL.

SET UP:

1. 12 " cast iron over chip pan, 

2. substituted a very large foil pan for the small water pan but I put it on the bottom smoking rack do to its size so I only had three racks to work with, but I could have used four if i put the pan on the black rack. I put quite a bit of water in it and am not sure how much is good...

3. 4-5 chunks of wood chips (60% hickory 40% cherry)  for first 2-3 hours and then replaced two of them at 3rd hour ( I  had just added the two in, but noticed that the heat increased so I took the two that were the most burned out at this time and heat went down.

4. I put the two spare rib racks on the top rack , the Baby backs on the second from the top rack 

5. I added two Large potatoes after two hours (on the third rack form the top, hoping some meat juice and flavor would fall on them ), covered in olive oil, sea salt, and pepper.

Results:

Good

1. Maintaining temp of 225-250 was not a problem tonight at all ( well at least the thermometer said so)

2. smoke looked to be TBS the whole time. chunks of wood did well, no flare ups

3. Baby backs were great in texture and doneness, but I will go back to my Rub that I used before( tried a new rub I got for Christmas)

Needs Work

1. The two spare rib racks that were on the top rack seemed to be  tougher than I wanted.. I think I am going to try the 3-2-1 method I saw above this post.

2. The potatoes were NOT done after two hours on the third rack...  I read around and it seemed that two hours would be plenty 

Over all it was not a bad attempt for my first time. I would give it a c+ and just be happy nothing was ruined and I learned lol

Here are some questions if you all can help..

1.  What racks are best , I was thinking after I cooked that since heat rises, maybe I should have put the potatoes in the top rack and the spare ribs on the lowest rack since they were so thin.. 

2. How much water do u put in a large pan for a once and done method

3. Are there any good thermometers that screw in to where the factory one goes?

4, any good rib rubs tips, ( Mine is basically brown sugar, kosher salt garlic powder paprika and pepper)

5. what did I do wrong with the potatoes, should I bake them first and then just smoke them for an hour or so at the end?

Any tips are greatly appreciated!!!

Lastly what are some good ideas for left over ribs or is just wrapping them in foil with a little sauce in the oven or 200 the best thing to do.


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## mangledremainz

1. I always fill my racks from top down. As you stated heat rises so I put the meat near the top. I haven't tried Potatoes yet. 

2. I put water to about 3-4" deep.

3. Since I seeing all the responses about the door thermometer being off I ended up getting one of these Wireless BBQ thermometers and couldn't be happier.













image.jpg



__ mangledremainz
__ Jan 12, 2014






4. Since my iPod touch likes to log me out when I back out I'll post the recipes I use. Ones a spicy Carolina rub and one is a sweeter rub.

5. I haven't done potatoes yet but think cooking them first then smoking them is a great idea.


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## mangledremainz

I mix mine in double batches so I can put them in a big shaker containers. Hope this helps! :)













image.jpg



__ mangledremainz
__ Jan 12, 2014






Sweeter Rib Rub












image.jpg



__ mangledremainz
__ Jan 12, 2014


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## ben paquette

Perfect man! Thx for the tips.. I have too much cooked meat right now to Try again today but I will go for that 3-2-1 method in the next week or so! My rub is alot like yous and I should have done it by I had to try the one I got for Christmas... At least now I know home made run is always the way to go!


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## ben paquette

Thx for all the tips guys! the 3-2-1 method was a cinch and Ribs were great! On to new adventures and ways to smoke!


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## ncvinny

Thanks to everyone on posting their mods, I have done a lot of them and added some of my own.  They are:

1) Put the gasket around the door

2) Bought a 12" cast iron skillet and filled it with ceramic briquettes

3) Filled the water pan with Ceramic briquettes also 

4) replaced the chip pan with the basket (I still put the cast iron skillet on top)

5) Added the masterforge chimney

6) Add a air damper on the bottom

7) Use 18" amps tube  for smoke ( I use pecan)

8) Bought a 4' x 6' welders blanket and draped it over the smoker

After making mods 1, 2, 3, and 8 the temperatures really stabilized.  It can go for hours without having to tweak the temperature knob. When I used the water pan and the water started to evaporate, the temp would spike

So here is my question to you guys, the reason why I did mods 5 -7 was because after I would smoke ribs or boston butt for 3 hours or or longer the bark would taste bitter (not a good smoke taste).  Of course I did a Google search and it told me it was the air flow, etc.  I first changed to the AMPS and was looking for thin blue smoke (my smoke from the chunks in the skillet was thick white).  The AMPS did produce less smoke and it looked lighter maybe blue, but I still had the bitter taste.

I then added the chimney and still had bitter taste.  I did notice better looking smoke after I added the damper on the bottom but I am still getting bitter bark.  I changed rubs and even made my own.  Do you guys have any suggestions?


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## jay1340

Very Possible. I had an old offset that i converted to propane. Going from stick burner to propane reduced cooking times by a 1/4th or a 1/3rd!

Converted that one back to stick burner & gave to my Brother.

Got one of these, see how it goes.


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## jay1340

Just bought this about 2 months ago. Just assembled yesterday.

I was running a New Braunfels offset that i had converted to propane with a turkey fryer burner due to my city burn ban restrictions, No wood, charcoal for fuel. My Brother needed a stick burner, so I broke out the welder and converted it back, gave it a new paint job and he's HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY!

I got this new Smoker! HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY>

I've read all through here several times over the last couple months and thought WOW, I got some work to do on this thing.

Threw it together yesterday, had a BUNCH of extras in the box; thermometer x2, side handles x2, door spring handle x2, screw kit x2, an extra cooking rack!! The handles already went on another project! Never have too many screws & the extra cooking rack well, White bass season is upon us, so that'll come in handy smoking 50 fillets!!

Put it together-easy. Carried it upstairs from the garage-glad my brother was here or I'd have removed the legs and used my dolly. Had taken my 100lb propane tank to be refilled=$56 (still had 10lbs of propane in it and I've been smoking off of it for 2 or 3 years)!!! Paid $95 originally for the tank!! WELL WORTH THE MONEY, not to fight with those little grill tanks!! Also got a 4' hose extension for my 0-40 psi adjustable regulator with needle valve, that was on the old stick burner to run on this!

Hooked it up, fired it up and couldn't get steady adjustments??? HMM??? Soapy water test revealed a line leak, did a little R&R, more soapy water, NO LEAKS!!

Threw my big cast iron skillet (12") on top of the original chip pan, threw in a fist size chunk of mesquite that I get from the local firewood guy on the cheap (He's another Brother that does logging, free oak, pecan and mesquite)!

Turned the valve on the smoker to high, played with the adjustable regulator and needle vale and my maverick 732 read a consistent 500*! Never need to smoke something that hot, but I could put a sear on something!!!

Turned the valve on the smoker to low, played with the regulator and needle valve again and got down to 175* on the Maverick! I can definitely slow smoke with that!

Found I'm going to use the needle valve which is up on the tank for adjustment instead of bending over to reach the one on the smoker. Played with the valve and had any consistent temp that I can desire, between the 175*-500*! Even had some wind going on, didn't seem to matter. Maybe it's because I can dial the pressure up a little.

For all the naysayers, I took the front panel and burner when I went to the propane store. The tech said, "Nope not a problem with the adjustable regulator just don't crank it up to high". Well, what's too high? I asked. He told me "Ever heard a turkey fryer or mudbug boil going on by a cajun?" Yuup sure have. "Well, that's about as high as you want to go with the pressure!!"

The door was leaking a lot on the hinge side, took a look and there was a little too much gap, so I used a handheld sledge and a block of wood to massage it into alignment where it should be, also tapped on the hinges a little to get the gap down!! No dents and solved the problem!

Thermometer seems to be close, plenty of draft, no need for an exhaust stack or additional intake.

Yeah the door still leaks a little, SO WHAT!! It's a smoker, it's supposed to smoke!! I'm in Texas I see and know all kinds of folks with small to huge smokers! Been to Rudy's, Ruby's, Smitty's, Kreuz, Salt Lick, Aaron Franklin's, Mueller's, etc.... Know what? ALL THEIR SMOKERS LEAK SMOKE!!! No gaskets, no silicone, no wedging the door, etc..... Let the crust build up a little, it'll leak less.

The thing works great, holds consistent heat and if it gets a little cold in the winter, I'll throw my old wool army blanket over it!!!

Here's a picture of my setup!













Masterbuilt.jpg



__ jay1340
__ Feb 21, 2014






Yes, it's smoking right there out the original back exhaust! No you can't see it.

We here in Texas love good barbque!

Don't over power your meat!!!  With Coverup sauce, spices or smoke!!

Olive oil or mustard with S&P is the ticket!!! Maybe a little sauce on the side to compliment the meat, but I don't want to have to go down to the boat to get my Personal Floatation Device, for my meat, because it's swimming or drowning!

A lot of sauce around here, means you're just bad barbque'r and covering up a lack of skills! Kind of like My Cherokee Brother says a Vegetarian is just a sad Hunter or Fisherman!


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## jay1340

Maiden smoke on the MB XL propane going in another thread

Here's my thought and findings from that;

*As for everyone saying the top shelf runs hotter than the bottom one, NOPE! I just moved the temp probe=20-25* hotter at the bottom shelf than the top!

I really didn't think that made any sense, it's farther away from the flame, the 12" cast iron skillet (which is a heat sink) and the water pan (also a heat sink).

So I moved the probe back to the middle rack and moved the ribs to the middle and top shelf. After I removed the Tri-tip when it was done.













Feb 23.jpg



__ jay1340
__ Feb 23, 2014






*Sure do like those pull out shelves, except for the drips on the balcony.

*I use a LOT less wood chunks in this than I did in my New Braunfels, which I had modified with a turkey fryer burner. Less than half as much wood!!! Which is fine by me, less wood to get from my logging Brother and less chopping it up on my miter saw!! I originally put in 6-7 chunks, had to pull 3 out! They went back in after the 1st ones burnt down.













Feb 23b.jpg



__ jay1340
__ Feb 23, 2014






*I just run the Maverick probe wires through the hinge side of the door and hang the transmitter on a right side handle! WORKS GREAT! No need for holes. You can see that in one of the above pictures

*Yeah the door leaks at the top some, so what! It's a smoker, that's what it does smoke!! As long as it doesn't affect draft, it doesn't matter!!

*I'll have to reposition my grill pad under my smoker for the future. Run it front to back, extra in the front, instead of side to side! To deal with those drips on my old balcony. I may also add a piece of sheet metal just over the front panel on the bottom, so it doesn't drip on that also. Be no Problem with my riveter. You can see that in the picture below.













Feb 23a.jpg



__ jay1340
__ Feb 23, 2014






*I moved my footlocker which is my BBQ supply holder; wood chunks, wood chips, welding converted BBQ gloves, lighter, extra racks, grill brushes, etc... to the left side instead of on the right.

*I'll fab a door stop for the smoker so it doesn't swing so far open, just enough to allow the racks to slide out. I've a welder and a full fab shop so that'll be easy peasy!

Biggest thing which I already knew since I'm from Texas! It's a smoker, let it smoke! Not that I'm a door opener, peeking kind of guy. If you're looking, you ain't cooking!! Been to many a BBQ joint in Texas, KC, Memphis, SC, NC, Germany, etc.... And there's one thing that always happens, the door or lid leaks! So what, as long as it drafts correctly from intake to exhaust, pulls the heat and smoke across the meat so you don't end up with the creosote taste or your draft going from exhaust to intake!

**It works fine, of course there's no wind today! With the design of the bottom I could see a need for a wind break, due to flame blowout. I'll see how it goes when that happens.


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## markusm

dbarnett66 said:


> I have been looking for a used stove grate to no avail when I saw my stock wood chunk pan and had a simple revelation. Wouldn't the cast iron frying pan just sit fine on top of the wood chip pan? Sometimes solutions are to simple to see clearly...LOL.


That's how I've been doing it, but I've changed it up. The reason is... when I 1st started smoking with mine (coming from smoking on propane grill), I started out smoking chicken breasts and burgers to "get to know" my 1st real smoker. I smoked these around 325 (chicken breasts approx, 1 hour, burgers approx 30 minutes. I had to replace the chips frequently because they'd smoke like crazy at 1st and burn out quickly. This led me to believe I should switch to chunks, which worked great the 1st time smoking the chicken breasts, but I dried them out (never had to open the door with the chunks giving a nice light smoke for the duration.)

Finally I decided I knew the smoker well enough to take a stab at a couple of racks of loin back ribs (all the store had). This introduced a new problem... with the heat all the way down at 225 I couldn't keep the chunks smoking. I recently followed another "modder's" advice on this forum, and made 3 adjustable legs on my skillet by drilling holes at the outer edge and using bolts and nuts for the legs, and taking the stock chip pan out of the picture in order to get the skillet closer to the flame. I haven't tried it out yet because I just made it the other day, and didn;t have time to smoke anything over this last weekend. 

I also saw some pictures of another person's smoker on here that modified the stock chip pan by flatting out, and from what it looked like, spot welding the 3 "stands" to cover the 3 slots in the chip pan. I'm thinking about trying this out as well if the skillet with the legs I added doesn't turn out to be satisfactory.


----------



## jay1340

markusm said:


> I also saw some pictures of another person's smoker on here that modified the stock chip pan by flatting out, and from what it looked like, spot welding the 3 "stands" to cover the 3 slots in the chip pan. I'm thinking about trying this out as well if the skillet with the legs I added doesn't turn out to be satisfactory.


Hammering the flats down, then welding them, closing the opening would make more heat shield. Probably better for higher temps. It's adding another layer between the heat and the chunks, which should cause them NOT to receive as much heat at a lower temp.

For lower temps and you can't get the skillet to smoke, just remove the original chip pan and try sitting it right on top of the ring in the bottom of the smoker. Direct flame to the skillet......


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## dilligaf850




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## markusm

> For lower temps and you can't get the skillet to smoke, just remove the original chip pan and try sitting it right on top of the ring in the bottom of the smoker. Direct flame to the skillet......


That's basically what I have done, except I have it sitting about 1/2" above the ring at the bottom of the smoker, I don't know if it's necessary, but I thought It might be better to allow airflow below it. 


> Hammering the flats down, then welding them, closing the opening would make more heat shield. Probably better for higher temps. It's adding another layer between the heat and the chunks, which should cause them NOT to receive as much heat at a lower temp.


It seems to me this would be about the same thing as using a skillet, but I thought the thinner metal would get hotter than the cast iron skillet at lower temps. Plus I believe part of the problem with sitting the skillet on the chip pan is that regardless of height above the flame, the chip pan is blocking the majority of the flame. 

*Edit* 

In case I didn't explain it clearly, when I mentioned modifying the stock chip pan, I meant to use it instead of the skillet, not flatten out the "stands" over the slots and still use the skillet.


----------



## jay1340

dilligaf850 said:


>


Don't ask me!!

As long as the door leak isn't affecting fresh air intake and exhaust it doesn't matter. So the smoke escapes out the top of the door or the vent in the back or a stack someone puts on top. It's all coming out the top!!!

Over engineering of a simple device, is my assertion.

I also smoked for 6 hours and 50 minutes with the provided water pan. I placed the meat directly over it so yeah I got a little drippage in the pan. I started with it full and never filled it. It DIDN'T run dry & I didn't fill it. There wasn't much left when I was done, but it wasn't empty. So I'm thingking i may have wasted money ordering a big ole stainless steel pan. Other than it'll contain some drips when I have more meat in the smoker!

How people are running out of water is beyond me. The very nature of propane burning condenses moisture anyway!

Maybe it's due to them sealing the door!!


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## jeff myers

dbarnett66 said:


> I have been looking for a used stove grate to no avail when I saw my stock wood chunk pan and had a simple revelation. Wouldn't the cast iron frying pan just sit fine on top of the wood chip pan? Sometimes solutions are to simple to see clearly...LOL.


That is what i have been using for a few years now with much success. i do like the old stove burner idea as well


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## mikemav

Hi everyone. Great forum! I just wanted to share my experience trying to order the smoker stack listed earlier by several who have used this to mod the Masterbuild XL. I called Master Forge support line listed near the beginning of this thread with that part# in had. First, it takes about 30 minutes of patience on hold to get through to someone. Then I about lost it when the only thing she would use to look this up was the LOWES item # for that smoker. The Smoker Stack  part# 302-02009-00 did nothing for them. Said she could not look it up that way. So while still on the phone, I scrambled to the Lowes website and found they still sell a Master Forge 50.15-in 20-lb Cylinder Piezo Ignition Gas Vertical Smoker and the picture looks to have this same nice smoke stack I wanted. So I read her that Item # from Lowes website: it is # 411913. Then with the description of smoke stack she found what I needed. $15 later it's on the way. Hope this helps anyone else who might want to add one to their XL.


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## jftx

I too added a stack to mine but I went with the Landmann stack instead of the Masterforge.  I like the overall design for a couple of reasons.  As you can see in the picture below, the rain cap is domed instead of pointy.  I think that it will wear easier on my cover.  I also like the fact that it is short but almost 3" in diameter.  I also like the novelty of the design.   It's not something you see everyday. 













photo 1.JPG



__ jftx
__ Apr 8, 2014






I used a 3" metal hole-saw on the top of the XL.  Like I said, the stack is a little larger than 3" so it sat very well on top of the smoker after cutting the hole in it.  I wasn't sure how the stack attached to the smoker before I received it and I wasn't able to figure it out from looking at the pictures.  I guessed that there would be tabs involved and I ended up being right...there's a first time for everything...













photo 2.JPG



__ jftx
__ Apr 8, 2014






While I was waiting "patiently" for the stack, I thought it would be a good idea to reinforce the hole that I cut in the smoker with a plate of some sort and after seeing that it had tabs, it made it easy for me to go that route.  My father-in-law used a plasma cutter to cut an adapter/reinforcing plate out of 10 gauge steel.  I drilled 1/4' holes in the adapter to accommodate the fasteners. 













photo 3.JPG



__ jftx
__ Apr 8, 2014






I shot the adapter with some high heat paint and went to putting it all together. 













photo 4.JPG



__ jftx
__ Apr 8, 2014






I had considered mounting the adapter to the smoker with fasteners of some sort but didn't worry about it after seeing the fit and finish when I joined the stack to the adapter.  I was happy with how well it "sandwiched" the smoker between the adapter and stack.  Overall, I am very happy with the way it came out.  I haven't fired it up yet because I want to give the paint a chance to dry really well.   I may end up adding some high heat silicone to the base of the stack, but I'll make that decision when I am able to see how much, if any, smoke leaks around the base.  Hell, nothing else is sealed on it so I may not worry about.  The CharBroil cover still fits nicely over the entire unit. The stack was 6 bucks and it cost 9 to ship it. 













photo 5.JPG



__ jftx
__ Apr 8, 2014


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## escher123

Holy hell their website is a disaster. How'd you order that stack? I'm having a hell of a time finding anything about it.


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## jftx

I just called their customer service department and asked them if I could order one. They were very helpful. The number is on the website.


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## mikemav

Okay the Master Forge $15 smoker stack chimney I mentioned earlier arrived, but looks different than the pictures others have posted. This one is square. Opening is only about 2"x2" so I hope that has enough draw to pull the air through better than the stock rear sliding vent. I suppose it might be easier to cut a square opening if you don't want to purchase a large hole saw for the round ones? Personally I think I'm just going to use a big 1/2" titanium bit I have and drill several holes where I'm going to mount it through the top of the smoker within the 2"x2" chimney opening area. Will let you know how it works out...













photo 1.JPG



__ mikemav
__ Apr 13, 2014


















photo 2.JPG



__ mikemav
__ Apr 13, 2014


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## jay1340

This modification thread reminds me of a Billy Connolly video about house potential!!!



Why not just buy the smoker that is the smoker you're going to have when you're done? By the time ya invest the parts, shipping and your time, you could have already afforded the potential smoker!!


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## bachande

022.JPG



__ bachande
__ Apr 20, 2014






Heres my upgrade needed to be a little bigger so i stacked two and cut the top out of one and bottom out of the other. Also close the bottom vent off and added smoke daddy to the side which works great. I sealed all around the doors and inbetween the two boxes.

.


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## oldeboone

What do you burn in the Smoke Daddy ??  I have been using chunks in mine. Am well satisfied with the smoke, but it requires a lot of baby sitting. Ernie


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## bachande

I use both pellet and chunk. Start with pellet at bottom and chunk on top of that. Yea i check it every hour or so seems needs to be bigger around maybe or longer. Seems like i need to poke at it the add pellets on top of chunks and i switch like that on and off. Whats your opion?


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## jftx

Mikemav said:


> Okay the Master Forge $15 smoker stack chimney I mentioned earlier arrived, but looks different than the pictures others have posted. This one is square. Opening is only about 2"x2" so I hope that has enough draw to pull the air through better than the stock rear sliding vent. I suppose it might be easier to cut a square opening if you don't want to purchase a large hole saw for the round ones? Personally I think I'm just going to use a big 1/2" titanium bit I have and drill several holes where I'm going to mount it through the top of the smoker within the 2"x2" chimney opening area. Will let you know how it works out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> photo 1.JPG
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> __ mikemav
> __ Apr 13, 2014
> 
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> photo 2.JPG
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> __ mikemav
> __ Apr 13, 2014


How did it end up working for you, Mikemav?


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## mikemav

JFTX said:


> How did it end up working for you, Mikemav?


I just got around to installing it today. Have not had time to try it yet, but it looks like it'll do the trick. Not wanting to try to cut out a 2" square, I simply drilled nine holes in that opening space w/ my 1/2" titanium bit without issue. Seal w/ a little food-safe red RTV and bolt it through, simple.

I also had this idea to try to make a removable 4" aluminum flex duct which would at times connect to my Weber kettle grill's top vent and run over to the smoker adjacent to it. I noticed that my A-MAZ-N pellet AMNPS box burns perfectly in the Weber (I've used it in cool grill for cold-smoking, for example.) I noticed the XL smoker tended to stifle out the AMNPS when the door is closed (or catch it on fire when too close to the burner.) However, this was before I installed the top chimney today, so maybe that alone would increase airflow enough to work w/ the AMNPS?

Regardess, I had this idea to pipe the smoke over from the AMNPS in the Weber to the smoker. Kind of like the mailbox mod, except with the Weber kettle being "the mailbox", and it's stock vent being the exhaust outlet to the removable duct. I plan to use my new 4" Polar Array BBQ vent I also installed in the smoker today as the inlet to get more air (or smoke from the Weber via the duct) into the smoker towards.  

I am using small strong magnets on each end of the duct (cut and bent back to form a makeshift flange.) Used RTV to secure the magnets to the flange. Once it sets up, I will give it a try and take some more pics. Meanwhile here is the chimney (pre-install, after drilling) and the rotating BBQ vent installed on the bottom side. The 4" duct will attach here via magnets when needed if my idea works.  

 













IMG_1253 copy.JPG



__ mikemav
__ Apr 20, 2014


















IMG_1251 copy.JPG



__ mikemav
__ Apr 20, 2014


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## jftx

It would be pretty easy to cut that square out now that you have those 1/2" holes in the top.  Also, I have an AMTS and I've found that it's All about placement. I moved my water pan up a little bit and placed one of the racks  as low as possible.  I place the tube smoker on the left hand side on that bottom rack and it works like a champ. I didn't get good smoke above or next to the water pan but I do now. Good luck with the mods. Hope it works the way you want it to.


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## bachande

Sorry olebones i misread your question. It does put out enough smoke with chunks, but i do alot of kielbasa and bacon and that low of temp i cant get it hot enough to burn chunks right. I been keeping the door open and turning it up to get the chunks burning 













034.JPG



__ bachande
__ Apr 21, 2014






but is a pain so i came up with this i set it on 110-130 on the dial and then let that smoke daddy eat for the smoke.Yum!













003.JPG



__ bachande
__ Apr 21, 2014


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## bachande

Put new 30k burning in smoker works good. Put the stock smoker plate with the holes in it on that with a cast iron pan on that.













001.JPG



__ bachande
__ May 20, 2014


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## frank68

where did you get it or where can i bay it

frank68


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## bachande

Got of ebay was like $38 their are few differant ones. I got the 30k btu it plenty.


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## mikemav

Now I've gone and done it, lol! Converting my 40" Masterbuilt into a true wood fired pellet burner with the Smoke Daddy Pellet Pro hopper assembly/burn pot, which is due to arrive later this week. Will be making a heat deflector and drip shield and basically just using this XL40 for a cabinet and slide-out racks at this point to make my poor-mans version of a Cookshack Fast Eddie FEC100. I may even upgrade the Pellet Pro electronic auger/burner/fan controller with a more sophisticated PID down the line.

If there is room I plan to leave the gas burner in the bottom. Will not be used with the pellet pro obviously, but I did try it out last week adapted to NG instead of propane, It would not go above around 210 degrees since I didn't drill out the propane burner orafice for NG, but I figure since at the low setting on NG it may hold steady at 130-160, this might come in handy one day if the pellets don't burn that low, for smoking sausages with the AMZNPS, etc... Anyway, also probably getting some ROXUL high temp insulation batts for the inside walls, and maybe Durock panels for the exterior to insulate the cabinet well also. Will be sure to post pics of the mods once I have them underway.

Now anyone have any ideas what to do about a cover once I frankenstein this hopper onto the side? I thought about covers made for the Bradley but none of their cabinets are big enough. Don't know of other off-the-shelf vertical cabinet smokers I could source a cover from with this "lump" off to one side (except the Fast Eddie, but their covers, though I'm sure awesome, cost almost as much as the pellet pro!) Should probably look similar to this general idea:

 













pellet pro pic.jpg



__ mikemav
__ May 20, 2014






One other question, calling all those who know there way around a tool box: need to cut a rectangular hole in the side for the auger/burn pot, about 4"x 5". I have some titanium tipped hole saw blades that work well on this steel, so could cut out the corners to get a saw blade in there to cut along the template lines. Is my best bet a jigsaw with metal cutting blade (I only have an 18V cordless however), or cut a bit wider corner hole and fit a sawzall metal blade in there? (When plasma cutters and/or water jets are portable and $199 in the future, be sure to let me know, I'm SO IN on that lol!)


----------



## mikemav

Jay1340 said:


> This modification thread reminds me of a Billy Connolly video about house potential!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just buy the smoker that is the smoker you're going to have when you're done? By the time ya invest the parts, shipping and your time, you could have already afforded the potential smoker!!



I see where you're coming from (says the guy who just spent $325 to convert a $199 smoker to an automated pellet burner, lol!) Still, from this relative newb's perspective, I think there is a big price cliff between really pro-sumer/semi-pro and "competition" or small restaurant/catering setups and something like the XL with great capacity and square-foot friendly design for the home smoker. For instance, my ideal setup (from what I know so far) were I to hit the lotto would be a Cookshack Fast Eddie's FEC100, which is a few inches larger than the XL, in a similar design of cabinet, size-wise. Then factor the auto-pellet auger/burner and real wood smoke/heat (and much better insulation) of course; I'm hoping to achieve an acceptable substitute of what they accomplish for north of $4k for much, much less.

I don't want a $500-$800 smoker from what I've seen. Personally, I won't buy my $4200 "dream" smoker, or a $1000-$1800 pellet grill (with less capacity than my Masterbuilt XL) for that matter, as nice as they look. I have a Weber performer charcoal kettle/cart I'm happy with for grilling hotter. I want a $199 smoker, which maybe I spend $500 more and some DIY time on, and hope to get 75% of the way to a $4k dream. I'm sure a Cookshack anything is WAY better build quality and probably in performance, but it's also likely overkill for this small family weekend chef... Plus I figure I'll try the stock Pellet Pro controller, and could always upgrade to one of the newer intelligent PID ones ($100-$200) with meat probe and grill probe that can automatically drop pellet consumption/fans, to get the smoker quickly to 160 to hold when done, etc... I have to admit that does sound like a very desirable feature on something which keep in mind is sourcing the heat and smoke from real wood pellets. It sure sounds like what I'm after, we'll see if all goes according to plan or what speed bumps I encounter.


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## smokin joker

Quick question...

Hopefully I haven't missed this in the thread somewhere...

If given the choice between setting a cast iron skillet directly on the circular housing or setting it on top of the old flimsy wood tray, which is the better option?

Obviously, setting it directly over the flame gives it more direct fire, but it seems to me it would seal out the flame and oxygen getting to the flame.

I know the best option is to make a new stand for the skillet, but I only have the two options at this point.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## irbanite

Smokin Joker,

I, like most people, just put the skillet on top of the "old flimsy wood tray". Some people have said that putting it directly on top of the burner does snuff out the flame. I've got a 12" skillet and it covers the entire tray.  I really like what Grinder did for his skillet on post #70  and will be doing that soon.  He also explained what hardware he used in post #73.

Hope this helped.


----------



## mearm

IRBanite said:


> Smokin Joker,
> 
> I, like most people, just put the skillet on top of the "old flimsy wood tray". Some people have said that putting it directly on top of the burner does snuff out the flame. I've got a 12" skillet and it covers the entire tray.  I really like what Grinder did for his skillet on post #70  and will be doing that soon.  He also explained what hardware he used in post #73.
> 
> Hope this helped.


What I did was take an old bowl from my dads unused smoker and set it on top of the wood tray. I tried it without the tray first, but it suppressed the fire. It works great now.


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## smokin joker

Cast iron on top of the OEM tray really seems like the way to go. It's been working well for me.

One more question...

Has anyone tried putting wood AND charcoal in the pan to start off the cook before switching to gas to impart a little extra flavor and char?


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## steve g

Hey fellow smokers!! I just purchased my new Master built XL. I have been reading about all the mods so there for I'm doing all of them!! I'm replacing the chip pan with a 12" skillet, replacing the water pan. I'm gonna use the door handle mod. Also gonna seal the door and install a smoke stack. All while putting it together!! My questions are is there a preferred location for the smoke stack and also has anyone put vents at the bottom? If so how many and it what location? Thanks for any help.


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## gary s

Pretty Neat


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## steve g

What size rope gasket should I use for the door?


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## irbanite

For the gasket, I used this stuff.  http://www.bbqgaskets.com/catalog_2.html   

I used the 450* wool(grey).  So far, I have no complaints.


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## steve g

That looks like the ticket...thanks so much. Quick question..Does it come with some with some kind of adhesive or what did you use?


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## irbanite

There's adhesive on the back of it.  It's a little wider than the frame so I just took a razor blade and trimmed it after it was installed.


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## smoke n brew

I have had my XL Smoker for a couple of years at least, and tried some of the various mods suggested here. I ended up using a 9x13x2 baking pan for a water pan set into the unmodified water pan holder frame, and a dollar store cake pan covered with perforated foil for my wood chunks. I can slide my smoke pan on or off the burner as much as I need to based on my fire/heat setting by using a fire brick on the side of the burner to hold the pan fairly level. I keep the factory vent set at 50% open summer or winter, and can stay between 250*F and 275*F from start to finish w/o resetting the burner. My smoker is in a semi enclosed area, but it always seems right after I light the smoker, the wind starts blowing.I would say the best mod I ever did to my XL, was blocking the back and the two sides at the bottom to keep the wind out. I found out the hard way, a little wind will blow the heat right out of my smoker.


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## steve g

Thanks so much Smoke N Brew the info is much appreciated!


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## steve g

Thanks for the link IRBanite!


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## 53rdcard

Made a minor mod to how mine is set up, mine is now a pellet smoker only, using one of the amazing tube smokers, with some of what i have i could easily still make it a chunks or chips burner, i even have the iron skillet, but for the most part i prefer the pellets.

The sand is to help maintain heat once it gets going, as when the door is opened pretty much everything goes out, and the pan above it is for water, and drippings. i tried it without the sand, and the water boiled away far to fast, this way it is more controlled. I should also note i lowered the rack that holds the water pan, and probably will lower it some more, might get some chain to hold the sand pan, and get it right up under the water one, then lower it as low as i can and still use the tube smoker, but right now this works great.

The thing that the tube smoker is setting on is one of these


i drilled some holes under it for air, and the combination works fantastic, once i did that i have never had the pellets go out.













20141121_114525.jpg



__ 53rdcard
__ Nov 21, 2014


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## chopjaw

So for x-mas this year the I heard the wife asking my 13yr daughter if she knows what daddy wants for xmas?  So knowing this I laid the trap or hint.. I have been wanting a new smoker for awhile now and I just could not bring myself to spend $$$$ on a really nice one.  WHY?  Because I'm not doing any comps and it's just 3 of us.  So If I get the right one then I can mod it and get the felling of "WoW I made this"  So I started researching smokers and the kind I wanted.  I've had 3 different styles of smokers and all have one thing in common, they were stick burners.  Couple of weeks ago I was at a friends house to help him for his work party (BBQ) at his house.  He was using my smoker and his brand new one that was not big enough to fit all of his meat.  I was skeptical at first about his smoker, I've never used one or had any food off of one (that I know of.)  So I took the brisket and did it on my smoker and he did all the other meat(s).  After his bbq party was over and I had a chance to think about it, I made the decision to get a new smoker like his.  

The ease of watching him smoke (which he's a freakin beginner) and act like he is a seasoned pro and what I had to go thru to make his brisket (which was "freakin good" judged by everybody at the party) and what I have gone thru in the past blew me away.  I didn't realize it but I was not smoking or using my smoker at all over the past year which is odd for me cause I'm always trying new things... I think I was just tired of the hassle of smoking, getting the smoker up to temp, keeping it there and so on has become a chore.  YES I do know how to use a smoker, I've been doing it for 20+ years so stop judging.....   (had to say that)  

(back to the story)  SO I left open my browser on the smoker that I wanted and made sure that both wife and daughter saw what I was looking at.  I did my research on the smoker, went and looked at it and 2 days ago the UPS man dropped it off at the house.  It's a win - win for everybody.  

Oh by the way, I chose a Masterbuilt XL Vertical Propane smoker.

The mods will be as follows:

1.    Smoke Daddy Cold Smoke Generator 

2.    1” Nomex High Temp BBQ Gasket (self stick) around the door.

3.    Bayou Classic High Pressure 0-30psi Adjustable Regulator (Needle Valve) to control the temp to allow to go to 200° and keep it there.

4.    Stainless Steel basket to rest the Cast Iron pan on for the wood chips.

5.    Casters to wheel this sucker around if needed.

6.    60lb propane tank.

I have all of the gear now for the fun part...

Please offer any suggestions or comment, I'd like to hear them.

Thanks


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## steve g

I also added a bigger water pan A's smoke stack out the top as well as a"skirt" around the bottom to keep wind from blowing the flame out. Let's see a picture of that beauty!!


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## chopjaw

Photos?


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## chopjaw

Steve G said:


> I also added a bigger water pan A's smoke stack out the top as well as a"skirt" around the bottom to keep wind from blowing the flame out. Let's see a picture of that beauty!!


I have decided to nix the Smoke Daddy.  Going to use the AMNPS 5x8 and 12" tube instead.  I have just read too many good things about the AMNPS to not use it.  

Question to you propane experts;  Now that I have the Bayou Classic High Pressure 0-30psi Adjustable Regulator (Needle Valve),  Do I need to change the burner also.  That thing looks pretty flimsy?  Should I get something else, who has done this?  Got Pics?

I just ordered the top vent chimney from Master Forge and I also got some other things up my sleeve that I'll have to show in Pics once I get them finished...

BTW, this place rocks!!!

Thanks Chop!


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## jamesfbc

10906262_10203134785758347_77440840135116521_n.jpg



__ jamesfbc
__ Jan 11, 2015


















1506839_10203134786278360_2033157606545281682_n.jp



__ jamesfbc
__ Jan 11, 2015






I drilled holes in the legs and puts some lawnmower wheels on it. 1000 times easier to move it now, its a must.


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## old fart

I love my smoker,I've had the fire issue before. I started using less chips,just need to refill more often. But after seeing these mods,I have a project for tomorrow when my weekend starts.just hoping the wife doesn't have a long honeydo list.


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## msuiceman

Chopjaw said:


> I have decided to nix the Smoke Daddy.  Going to use the AMNPS 5x8 and 12" tube instead.  I have just read too many good things about the AMNPS to not use it.
> 
> Question to you propane experts;  Now that I have the Bayou Classic High Pressure 0-30psi Adjustable Regulator (Needle Valve),  Do I need to change the burner also.  That thing looks pretty flimsy?  Should I get something else, who has done this?  Got Pics?
> 
> I just ordered the top vent chimney from Master Forge and I also got some other things up my sleeve that I'll have to show in Pics once I get them finished...
> 
> BTW, this place rocks!!!
> 
> Thanks Chop!


I have an XL, I use the tubes.... I can't really get the amnps to stay lit unless I leave the burner completely off. No change of the burner, I have a needle valve and can go from insanely low (as long as there is no wind, I really need to build a shield, I have a redneck fix right now) to an absolute inferno.


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## wa0auu

My brother and I added a rotisserie !  And made some electronic mods so it can cook by time as masterbuilt made it or with the flip of a switch we can cook by > internal temp< which to me is much more important !  With our mods we can get the internal temp up to 350. (if we ever need it)


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## msuiceman

this is for the masterbuilt xl propane smoker... if you converted it electric and put a rotisserie in it, I'd be interested in seeing it.

I did think about putting a controller plus a heating element in it that is removable just to have the option and possibly get more consistent lower temps. I decided to go needle valve instead, but the option is still there.


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## old fart

GChild said:


> Having the XL since Xmas, I have found the problems that everyone else has. I sealed the door with wood stove gasket from Lowes, added a bent plate to the door to keep the drippings from dripping out the bottom all over the deck, added a 4" steamer tray (hotel pan) for a water pan/drip tray and replaced the chip pan with a cast iron frying pan sitting on a gas range burner grate. The other thing that was bothering me was the height that the unit was sitting. I built a stand with side tables to make it more accessable, more mobile and more usable. The other thing is I connected it to our buried propane tank for the house, so I didnt have to worry about running out of gas during a smoke.
> I have done several sets of ribs, chuckies, butts and a few chickens and all came out good.
> Over all I think it is a good smoker for the money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> My Smoker 1.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ gchild
> __ Feb 22, 2011


I love this idea,I'm going to get with a friend of mine and see if we can come up with something similar.


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## petehalsted

I am in the process of seasoning my XL right now. And have an issue with the temp being to high, please see my separate thread  

The mods I have done.

1. 12 inch Cast Iron skillet sitting directly on the stock chip pan. I did not mod the stock chip pan at all

2. Waterpan is restraunt style steam table pan. Has about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of clearance on each side.

3. Mounted it on a Harbor freight furniture mover. with a couple of 2 x 4's

In the photos you can see my ivation wireless thermometer and the sensor mounted on the 2nd shelf from the top.

I live in Biloxi, MS. So at sea level, and damn hot!!! 

Anyone got a cool holder or something for the transmitter? My leads are not long enough to feed through the back vent and reach over to side handle so that I could hang it off the side. What I am doing right now is I have it setting on a silicon pot holder.













smoker1.jpg



__ petehalsted
__ Jun 28, 2015


















smoker2.jpg



__ petehalsted
__ Jun 28, 2015


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## mcmillenjg

Did you manufacture stand yourself or use an existing shelving unit?  Great mod!  Thanks!


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## wa0auu

WE did put a rotisserie in our masterbuilt electric smoker and we love it.  Just did a 12 pound prime rib on it and it was the best prime rib we have ever done !  WE did a 4 pound whole chicken on the rotisserie and mom said it was the best chicken she ever ate.

now let me see if I can remember how to put photos in here.......I am an old guy













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__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015


















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__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015





WE used a rotisserie made by GRILLPRO ( wow are they ever good !)

their model 60090   www.grillpor.com













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__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015


















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__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015


















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__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015


















LEW_2970 - Version 2.jpg



__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015





  I am an electronic engineer, this is the new electronic control i built for our Masterbuilt smoker.  The only change we made is I changed the 145 temp to 250.  SUre is handy to have some PRE SET temps !

If you have questions about doing this you may email me direct at   [email protected]

WIth the switch set to smoker,  the smoker works just like it came from the factory but flip the switch to modified and that is where the magic happens.  There is a lot of electronics in that box.  The new control box cost me more than the new smoker did !


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## wa0auu

LEW_2985.JPG



__ wa0auu
__ Sep 17, 2015






THe stand is a 6 foot long model made by Gorilla rack and is sold at places like...Home Depot, Menards and Lowes I think.   We did put castors under it.  The stand has no bolts !  it just taps together with a hammer.  IF we can do it anyone can, that easy.  We are going to add a " dorm room" size frig next to it to keep the beer cold


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## chopjaw

It's official.  You SUCK!     :)

Dude that is super cool.  I'll take the controller please.  Just tell me how much!


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## wa0auu

IF you really want a replacement control box like I built, I need to know if you are really interested because of the cost.  If yo u want one I suggest you email me direct at    [email protected]  There will be a little work you need to do when you get it because the output of the new control box gets wired direct to the heating element.  Or you can bring your smoker to Cresco iowa and we will be glad to do it all for you

I built the box with all number 10 wire, hard to work with but used it because there is around 10 amps current being used.  The wire that goes from the output of the control box to the heating element is number 10 >>teflon insulated because of the heat.

I was an electronic engineer in the Navy for 25 years, I know a little about it


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## dwhite1031

PeteHalsted
I dont have the Masterbuilt but I have the Char-Broil vertical LP smoker.  I used one of those all-thread nipples used for table lamps from Home Depot.  Package came with different lengths and got a package of the hex nuts for them too all for about 7 bucks.  Drilled a hole in the side, installed the all thread nipple and I run my thermometer probes thru there.  I also added a small expanded metal shelf on the same side and sit my transmitter there.


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## fishorelse

The best modification for my master bill was selling it


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## wa0auu

THis is what our 12 pound prime rib looked like when done













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__ wa0auu
__ Sep 18, 2015


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## sbpaducah

I have had 2 MB 40's for over a year and I still have the same problem with both of them.  Tell me, in the new ones, will the temp get up to set temp and hold it within 5-10 degrees of set or like both of mine that fluctuate 30 degrees on either side?  This means if you set the temp on 225 that you get 195 degrees on the low side and then 155 on the high side.  It's hard for me to cook like this when the low side seems to creosote up the meat.  I have recently bought a Kamado style grill and the results seem to be far superior to my MB's.  I would be interested to hear if MB has fixed this problem.  I saw them being sold on some TV channel yesterday and they reported selling around 30,000 of these 30 inch units.  I would hate to be on the phone with them trying to resolve warranty problems during the next few months!


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## wa0auu

You are right, we set ours for 250 and it never gets there even on a warm day.  About the best it can do is 245.  i think the heating element is a little small.  That will be the next thing I work on

WAØAUU in iowa


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## msuiceman

mine is propane, so it gets to whatever I set it. fluctuations in ambient air temp/sunlight/wind will affect temp as well as the meat heating. I have put sand in the water pan to gain a larger heat sink, but I think I may need more thermal mass to really help with the temp. its not a huge problem, but it will help when I have to open the door to do something.


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## j4165y

Unfortunately the XL Masterbuilt after 3 years becomes a complete throwaway piece of junk. I truly enjoyed the first two years of service it performed very well. But after the second season it started to rust severely and needed a new burner. Also the door warped to where I had to remove and have repent and weld stiffeners. Yes the smoker is very cheap but only expect three years of service maximum. Don't get me wrong it worked perfectly fine for 2 solid years but going into 3 years it started having issues.. now also take into consideration I used it roughly about 125 times


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## msuiceman

j4165y said:


> Unfortunately the XL Masterbuilt after 3 years becomes a complete throwaway piece of junk. I truly enjoyed the first two years of service it performed very well. But after the second season it started to rust severely and needed a new burner. Also the door warped to where I had to remove and have repent and weld stiffeners. Yes the smoker is very cheap but only expect three years of service maximum. Don't get me wrong it worked perfectly fine for 2 solid years but going into 3 years it started having issues.. now also take into consideration I used it roughly about 125 times


did you keep a cover on it? I've had mine for 4 years I think now, keep it outside, and so far so good (though I had a hose go bad, but replaced it when I added the needle valve). burner is still original, cabinet is not rusting nearly at all anywhere. I keep mine under the charbroil vinyl cover when not in use.


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## wa0auu

Our next mod is to put in an infra red LP gas burner behind the rotisserie.  We will only use it about 15 or 20 minutes to get the outside of a prime rib a little more crisp.  Has anyone ever put an IR burner in a masterbuilt ?  If you have all ready done this please email me photos and your ideas to    [email protected]

thanks

WAØAUU


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## wa0auu

The novice guys in north east iowa are working on their next mod, I have a LP gas infra red burner on order and will put it in right behind the rotisserie.  plan to use it only about 15 minutes at the start.  We removed the drip tray and water pan and tossed it out in the trash and now have installed the new control box we built for it.  Works GREAT !  No more ditzen around with pushing buttons, just flip one switch and done

WAØAUU


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## krazykanuck

This is going to probably sound like a silly question - but with the needle valve, where did you guys find the necessary fittings to adapt it onto your existing regulators?


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## msuiceman

KrazyKanuck said:


> This is going to probably sound like a silly question - but with the needle valve, where did you guys find the necessary fittings to adapt it onto your existing regulators?


I used a complete replacement. it was as simple as taking off the original hose assembly and regulator, and replace it with this. they both screwed onto the same fitting behind the front/bottom panel.


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## jamesfbc

image.jpeg



__ jamesfbc
__ Dec 3, 2015





The newest mod I've done was put a side smoker on my box. Went one really easy. Had to cut the side holes and custom make some brackets to handle the weight but it came out good. Total it all cost me about 45 bucks. Having a little bit of a problem getting it over 250. Tried chunks and charcoal going for logs next and putting on a chimney vent to try to get more air movement.  













image.jpeg



__ jamesfbc
__ Dec 3, 2015


















image.jpeg



__ jamesfbc
__ Dec 3, 2015


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## solidbob

Hi all,

Reviving a slightly older thread. I have a 30" MES Analog but thinking about purchasing the XL Propane. I did the mailbox mod on my MES, using the Amaz-n tube smoker and/or the other amaz-n pellet/dust smoker. It all works great. Has anyone done the mailbox mod on the propane smoker? Went all through this thread and didn't see any.

Thanks!


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## zamazoz

https://statich.smokingmeatforums.com/b/bc/bc21eb36_Copy1Tbstsptograms.vnd.ms-excel  
I have a Masterbuilt Sportsman Elite Propane smoker and I did the mailbox mod. I followed other peoples information and it works great.


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## philh

Solidbob said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Reviving a slightly older thread. I have a 30" MES Analog but thinking about purchasing the XL Propane. I did the mailbox mod on my MES, using the Amaz-n tube smoker and/or the other amaz-n pellet/dust smoker. It all works great. Has anyone done the mailbox mod on the propane smoker? Went all through this thread and didn't see any.
> 
> Thanks!


I have the XL Propane. I did the mailbox mod.

Here is my write up: http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/...ropane-mailbox-mod-heavy-qview-need-some-help

Phil


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## snaggletoe

You might want to try it without the Mod first. I bought mine about a year ago. I did not have any problems with getting the temp below 100 degrees with the stock propane valve on the unit. Mine is very stable on temps and required no Mods to get stable temps at 225 or even down below 100 degrees F. I would hate to see you do a Mod when it is not needed.

UD


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## irbanite

That is really weird.  I've had mine for a couple years now and have always struggled to keep the temp below 270*.  I just installed the Bayou Classic regulator hose with the valve to try and get lower temps but haven't had a chance to try it out yet.


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## snaggletoe

After reading all the posts about challenges with the propane valve,  I too was amazed that mine would go so low and maintain temp accurately and repeatably. I measure the temp with external probes. I do have the stock chip replaced with a cast iron chip box that I had laying around. It would have the same effect as a cast iron fry pan I would assume. But no Mods needed for temp adjustments on my Masterbuilt Sportsman Elite Propane. Maybe I just lucky????

Sometimes better to be lucky than good I suppose.


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## jimmy1957

Are we talking about the 40 or 44 gas model when we say XL?


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## snaggletoe

This is the one I have.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/777254/masterbuilt-sportsman-elite-gs30d-2-door-propane-smoker


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## jimmy1957

This is the one I just got, It is a 44 inch 2 door so I would consider this too be XL,


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## idsmokethat

Has anybody done anything about building a wind break?  I'm considering buying some sheet metal and attaching to the side legs and across the back.  I'll leave the front untouched.  Any thoughts?


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## jimmy1957

Welcome to the site, I have not done anything like that but it does sound like it could easily be done, I think it would work as long as you have the smoker facing with the wind blowing against the sheet metal barrier that you build, let us know how you make out.


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## irbanite

IdSmokeThat said:


> Has anybody done anything about building a wind break?  I'm considering buying some sheet metal and attaching to the side legs and across the back.  I'll leave the front untouched.  Any thoughts?



I think this would work well. I'm thinking of riveting some sheet metal to mine also.   Post pics if you do. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wa0auu

We have made two big improvements to our Masterbuilt smoker, first, I am an electronic engineer so i built a NEW controller for it, one that works the way I want it to work.  and next we put a rotisserie in it !  They should come like that !













LEW_2973.jpg



__ wa0auu
__ Jul 1, 2016





t     The new control box will let me select 2 pre set temps or with the new                         

                                                                                                      PID control I can select the temp I want.  We now have a probe that we

                                                                                                     put in the meat and we can read its internal temp.  VERY HANDY !













LEW_3097.jpg



__ wa0auu
__ Jul 1, 2016





       Any questions you may email me at       [email protected]













LEW_2986.JPG



__ wa0auu
__ Nov 10, 2015


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## zamazoz

IdSmokeThat said:


> Has anybody done anything about building a wind break?  I'm considering buying some sheet metal and attaching to the side legs and across the back.  I'll leave the front untouched.  Any thoughts?


I have done this to my Smoker... It does help when it's windy.


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## stubster

Masterbuilt Pro 30" digital and Bluetooth. I bought the aux side box smoker for doing cheese. Seeing how the smoker keeps great temp the heater runs very little while doing meat. So I use the aux a lot.anywhere from room temp up to 275°. And as much smoke as you desire. Got two chuck roasts in it now doing the burnt tip recipe [emoji]128523[/emoji]


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## jokensmoken

I put a needle valve on my 20# tank that allows me to control lower temps... I've been able to maintain 100°F with this inexpensive mod, however you'll need a smoke source such as a tube or a mailbox mod as 100° isn't hot enough to get anything to smolder/smoke on its own.

Walt


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## jokensmoken

Great rotisserie mod[emoji]128077[/emoji][emoji]128077[/emoji][emoji]128077[/emoji]


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## fishwater

Was gifted a Masterbuilt 40 in. XL Propane Smoker recently.  I smoked my first butt on the 4th and the smoker held temps in the 225-250 range consistently for 6+ hrs.  I foiled the chip pan per suggestions. However, the foil is now stuck to the pan (not a big deal as im planning on setting cast iron skillet on top of pan from here on out).   

First smoke made one thing readily apparent - I need to seal the door. Ive been looking at the BBQ gasket website.  Can anyone give me the correct dimensions for the gasket to seal the door? I am hesitant to order off whim as I know the welds on the door hinge are not that strong and I don't want to pop them by adding too thick of a gasket and closing the latch too tight.


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## jimmy1957

This is the gasket I used,


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## smoker21

I used the same gasket. Put it on in  February and it's helped a lot.

JD


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## jimmy1957

If I remember correctly Smoker21, You are the one who gave me the recommendation for the seal.


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## smoker21

LOL 

JD


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## jokensmoken

I used the same gasket also worked great...


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## jokensmoken

Again, same here...lol.


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## fishwater

Thanks for the rec. I received gasket in the mail.  Im going to clean the edges of door and apply.


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## Kevin Underwood

I know this is an old post but here are the mods I’ve done based on the recommendations from this forum. This is a 30” not an XL by the way.


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## jimmy1957

on the bottom picture on the right, what is the little round knob above the handle?


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## Kevin Underwood

It’s an adjustable cable gland for the probes

Huahuiyuan Stainless Steel PG7...


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## ponzLL

Hi all, just registered to ask what everyone is putting the smoke stack on the top for? If I open my back vent all the way I find the thing runs cooler than I really need it to. What's the reason to add the stack? I've been itching to mod my MB smoker but don't quite get this one. 

Really love the mod someone did by adding bolts to the bottom of their skillet though. I'm gonna do that one this week!


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