# Need help with a Masterbuilt 30" smoker, doesn't work!



## hikngruven

First post, forgive me if this one has already been beaten to death but I didn't find it after a search.  I have a 30" Masterbuilt Electric smoker, I believe model 20070910.  Solid black door, simple looking unit.  Two years old, never had an issue before and only used a dozen times.  I went to fire things up Christmas morning and got nothing on the digital display, no lights, no display, no button functionality and no heat below.  I normally use a 12/3 extension cord and have never had an issue.  Eliminated that and plugged in directly and still had nothing.  

I did hear a slight click coming from the top control unit while plugged in, a single click every two seconds or so.  Temp was about 5 degrees outside.

I did not move the unit in to warm it up but was under the impression that I would get an error code if that was the case and I had nothing.  I also have not done the connector repair to the elements but was under the impression that if that was the case I would have a working display on top but no heat below.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, my warranty is long gone and I would love to make this thing work again.  Thanks in advance!


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## garyinmd

Take the controller off and take it inside and warm it up, worth a try.  Some have had luck putting a pan of boiling water inside which warms it up enough to work.  I believe you are right when the connections on the element go bad the display still works.


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## hikngruven

All good!  Came home from work this morning to 40 degree temps and everything fired up as normal.  Masterbuilt oughta build these things for us northerners to be able to use.  5 degrees is barely sweatshirt weather!


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## tiffany186

I had a similar problem with my Masterbuilt 30", at only two months old. I called the company and the first thing she asked after I told her it was under cover, but outdoors, was, "What's the outdoor temperature?"  Well.....on the day I had trouble with it, it was in the teens...but without thinking I told her the temp at that moment, which was unseasonable warm (60*), so she just hmmmmmmmm'd.  As it was under warranty, she sent me a new control unit, and everything is working fine, albeit, I haven't used it on a frigid day.  I bet if I installed the old unit on a mild day, it would probably still work!


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## ernestwells

Morning,

Wass just up in Washington last October visiting a friend, their Masterbuilt unit was acting up. We took the display unit off, warmed it at 150 F in the oven for about 30 minutes then reinstalled the unit. That did the trick. We did experience an element failure also, had to drill out all the pop rivets and solder  one of the leads in the heating element. We used screws to reattach the back onto the unit, just incase of future failures.

Masterbuilt does have controller available should your's still not repond. They were not that expensive. Luckily, we were able to resurrect the one on my friend's unit.

Good Luck,

Newbie


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## lakesmoker

I have about a 2 + yearold 30" Masterbuilt.  And so far knock on Wood, its been working fine.  And I've used it below Zero in Minnesota.  I do store the unit in an indoor work area part of attached garage, that's not heated but it is insulated from the extremes.  Maybe Masterbuilt cut corners on newer units.


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## mossymo

In colder temps I lay a folded bath towel over the controller to keep the cold temps away from direct contact with the controller. This seems works well to insulate the warm temps coming from the cook chamber so the controller functions properly.


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## daricksta

hikngruven said:


> First post, forgive me if this one has already been beaten to death but I didn't find it after a search.  I have a 30" Masterbuilt Electric smoker, I believe model 20070910.  Solid black door, simple looking unit.  Two years old, never had an issue before and only used a dozen times.  I went to fire things up Christmas morning and got nothing on the digital display, no lights, no display, no button functionality and no heat below.  I normally use a 12/3 extension cord and have never had an issue.  Eliminated that and plugged in directly and still had nothing.
> 
> I did hear a slight click coming from the top control unit while plugged in, a single click every two seconds or so.  Temp was about 5 degrees outside.
> 
> I did not move the unit in to warm it up but was under the impression that I would get an error code if that was the case and I had nothing.  I also have not done the connector repair to the elements but was under the impression that if that was the case I would have a working display on top but no heat below.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated, my warranty is long gone and I would love to make this thing work again.  Thanks in advance!


Even though it's out of warranty I've heard about MB customer service agreeing to replace components for free. Some guys here (like me) have had good experience with their CS dept. and others haven't. I've had the same exact unit for about a year and a half and I'm going to fire it up in about a week to do some cold smoking. I hope it's still working; it did great over the summer.


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## texascoast

I have had my Masterbuilt 30" for about two years when the 1200watt element went out last week with a bang.

Luckliy I had ordered a replacement from MasterBuilt easier in 2013, they would only send me the 850watt based on the model #.

It looks like the heating element is not fully covered in the back of the unit so drippings from cooked food falls on it, this eats away at the metal. This is what seemed to cause the element failure, you may want to make a shield to cover it at the back of the unit.

When I replaced the element it would not heat up, I finally found the problem to be a dead, "*KSD301 Thermostat*". This is the dime size device on the left inside of the unit, it can only be accessed by taking off the back panel.

I temporarily  bypassed the switch just to test my theory!

I am in the process of acquiring a new one.

I will keep you posted!

Sorry for the Long First Post, but I thought this might save others from the time I have spent working on this one!

No cold weather problems with the Unit along the Texas Coast
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Enjoy the outdoors, Cook Something!!

John


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## daricksta

TexasCoast said:


> I have had my Masterbuilt 30" for about two years when the 1200watt element went out last week with a bang.
> 
> Luckliy I had ordered a replacement from MasterBuilt easier in 2013, they would only send me the 850watt based on the model #.
> 
> It looks like the heating element is not fully covered in the back of the unit so drippings from cooked food falls on it, this eats away at the metal. This is what seemed to cause the element failure, you may want to make a shield to cover it at the back of the unit.
> 
> When I replaced the element it would not heat up, I finally found the problem to be a dead, "*KSD301 Thermostat*". This is the dime size device on the left inside of the unit, it can only be accessed by taking off the back panel.
> 
> I temporarily  bypassed the switch just to test my theory!
> 
> I am in the process of acquiring a new one.
> 
> I will keep you posted!
> 
> Sorry for the Long First Post, but I thought this might save others from the time I have spent working on this one!
> 
> No cold weather problems with the Unit along the Texas Coast
> 
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> Enjoy the outdoors, Cook Something!!
> 
> John


Please follow up on this post, John. I'm very interested to find out if you're able to fix the problem yourself. Where are you attempting to get the new thermostat from and how much does it cost?


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## jted

.

~~My 910 model died after 7 months . I talked to Masterbuilt customer service, They shipped a new unit and I received it 30 minn. ago. I am very happy with the service since mine was 4 months out of warranty. They want me to send the power cord and ID plate back.


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## hahnyak

I just  seasoned my Masterbuilt 30 in propane smoke house, and I cant wait to  smoke up a storm. In the past I had our turkeys smoke at a smoke shop now I hop tyo smoke all thinks myself. I really want to do a Brisket but I thought I better try some chicken or something first. Any suggestions would be greatly appreaciated. Thanks Jim Mesa Arizona.


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## texascoast

I originally went to my local Air Conditioning & Heating supplier, he knew exactly what I was talking about.

These devices are used in things like home heaters and dryers to prevent overheating, they are meant to replaced, if needed.

He gave me an old one to test, just to see if it would work, I tried it, it worked fine.

The only problem was we did not know the tripping temperature of the item, but it proved my point.

Today, on Amazon.com, I found what looks to match the temperature range I think I need, below you will see what I ordered, cost is $6 for 5.
[h1]*Amico 5 Pcs KSD301 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat 150 Celsius N.C.*[/h1]
150 Celsius converts to *302 Fahrenheit*, the max. temp for the MasterBuilt Electric is 275deg. so I figured 302 would be safe.

The item comes in Jan. 2nd.

I will let you know how it goes!!

Happy New Year,

John


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## tiffany186

I had another thought on this...something I will try if I have another problem under cold weather conditions......I think I will just plug in my heating pad an lay it over the control unit for awhile.  If, in fact, cold weather is the problem, I don't see why this wouldn't work.


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## cuebiz

I have a 4 mo. old MES 40" gen 2. I live in WI where the winters are brutal sometimes.  I didn't want this to stop me, so after reading all the problems others are having, and reading information on this forum, I ordered the Auber Instruments P.I.D. controller to fit my element.  This is Great!!!  It bypasses all of the chinese controls, and operates only the element.  I can see where it is easier on the element, because after it gets close to set temp. it pulses the element.  The original controller is either on full blast or off completely (not cooking at all with big tempurature swings)  Also it is not using 100% power all the time when it is powering the element. This is truely a "set it and forget it" system. It also fires right up after warming the chamber probe to above 32* with your warm hand or a lighter.  Really worth it to me. The unit has 2 probes for meat and chamber. With a Maverick 732 it is a dream to use. + or - 3-5*.


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## jted

CueBiz, I checked out the Auber controllers, which one did you get? What do you do with the old controller just disconnect it? Thanks in advance for the info.JTED


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## dirtworldmike

jted said:


> CueBiz, I checked out the Auber controllers, which one did you get? What do you do with the old controller,jjust disconnect it? Thanks in advance for the info.JTED


I'd like to know also. Thanks


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## geerock

There's an access panel on the back of the mes that gets you to the slide connections at the element.  Cut the power cord where it goes into the mes and crimp on a couple of female slide connectors.  Connect the power cord to the two terminal and the ground to the ground terminal a few inches away.  This cord l













20130331_111433.jpg



__ geerock
__ Mar 31, 2013





plugs directly into the Auber controller and the Auber plugs into the wall outlet.  Rock solid temp control.  You can get the controller with or without programmable meat probe.


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## kjegner

I had the same problem put mine in the basement let it warm up then took it back out side worked fine. We now cover it with a tarp and not had any issues the last 3 years.


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## cuebiz

I bought the WSD 1503 CPH with dual probes.  1800 watt.  My element is 1200 watt, so this has more than enough power. You may be able to use a smaller one for your wattage.

Disconnect the 2 existing wires and ground wire from the element, and put wire nuts or black tape on them and just tuck them aside in the unit.

Get a short extention cord # 12 wire w/ ground, and cut the female end off. Connect the 2 power wires from the extention cord directly to the element, and connect the ground wire to where the original ground wire was.  My unit had spade connectors. Im not sure what you will be dealing with in your unit. It's as easy as that!   Plug the male end into the back of the Auber, and plug the Auber into a wall outlet. You will have to print out the directions from the website. It will tell you to do an "autotune" with a pan of water inside the unit. (I used hot water to save time) Take a piece of wood, and drill a couple of holes in it for the probes to stick in, and set it on top of the water pan so that the probe ENDS ONLY are sticking in the water without touching the metal pan. At this point let it go through the autotune process. Once the lights quit blinking your ready to get smoking!  Now the Auber knows what it needs to do (for your unit ) to keep the temperature at the set point. I had to have a tech friend help me get through the language barrier a little, but once he explained it to me it was pretty easy after that.  This unit has up to 6 programs that you can use for meat temps or time settings. The meat temp has a default setting that you will have to change. I set mine to the max default 299*, wich will never be used. (You never cook meat to that temp.) If you DON'T do that, the unit will shut off at the preset meat default temp. and won't let you get to your desired temp. ( such as pulled pork 200* ect.)  I hope this helps you make your decision. To me it was a "no brainer", instead of dealing with high temp swings. Be sure to use some sort of a wind breaker for your unit. It helps drastically!   Any more questions feel free to ask.  I also use the AMNPS, and a Maverick 732 thermometer.

Happy Smokin! Dave.


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## cuebiz

Also as Geerock said, you can get a unit with only a chamber probe, and use a remote therm such as a Maverick for your meat temp monitoring.


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## jted

Thank You Geerock and CueBiz, Even I can understand those instructions.


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## timsnewatsmokin

OH Great!!! I just ordered this same smoker


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## geerock

Not sure why you would stick the probes in the water except if you're doing sous vide PID control or something like a rice cooker.  If using a cooker for air temp then the probes need to be in the chamber reading the air temp differences during the auto tune.


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## cuebiz

Geerock you are exactly right. It's been a couple of months since I set this up and I remember now that AFTER the autotune, I put the food probes in the water for a dry run verifying the temp readings. Thankyou for correcting me.  I guess my memory isn't what it used to be!

During the autotune I had the probes in a block of wood setting on the grate. Sorry for the confusion jted and dirtworldmike.


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## texascoast

Happy New Year to everyone  from TexasCoast!

Well here is my report on replacing the Element in the MES 30.

I actually found Two problems, a Blown Electric Element and the Temperature Control Switch (TCO) was also blown! 

I replaced both of these items and the MES is up and working again.

The TCO is the small dime size sensor inside the back of the smoker, mine was located on the left side of the back panel.

You will need to take off the back of the unit to get to the TCO, it is contained in a small metal enclosure.

The TCO can be checked with a multimeter, it should show 0 ohms, if the meter shows infinity then the TCO is bad.

Below is what I ordered from Amazon.com to replace the TCO.
[h1]*Amico 5 Pcs KSD301 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat 150 Celsius N.C.*[/h1]
150 Celsius converts to *302 Fahrenheit*, the max. temp for the MasterBuilt Electric is 275deg. so I figured 302deg. F. would be safe.

I have had the unit running between 250 & 275 deg. for most of the day, No problems.

I hope this Post helps someone else. I thought my unit was DOA for sure!

I will be ordering another Element just to have in hand!

John


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## jted

John, Thanks for the update.


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## frank68

hi 

Where can i  bay one of them thing 

thanks 

            frank68


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## frank68

geerock said:


> There's an access panel on the back of the mes that gets you to the slide connections at the element. Cut the power cord where it goes into the mes and crimp on a couple of female slide connectors. Connect the power cord to the two terminal and the ground to the ground terminal a few inches away. This cord l
> 
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> 20130331_111433.jpg
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> __ geerock
> __ Mar 31, 2013


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## jted

Frank, Here is a link to the web site.

~http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_28

Look around for one that works for you and your unit.   Jted


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## frank68

thanks 

i have a 40 Mas what can i use not to good at this

thank   frank68


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## geerock

You can use the 1200cph (no meat probe), the 1204cph (with meat probe) or step to the 1500 ti use the full 1200 watts.  The 1200 needs to have the output reduced to under 90 percent as you are right on the edge for wattage.  But it takes a minute to .  No problem.  I suggest the meat probe models for a few bucks more.


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## cuebiz

I like the meat probe for the programming to turn off or hold temp when the meat has IT temperature for foiling etc. For me that comes in handy.


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## Victor

I'm going with the WSD-1503CPH Smoker Controller, Dual Probes 1800 Watts


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## frank68

hi 

     geerock

what smoker do you have ?

can,t figure how to make it work 

thanks frank 68


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## geerock

008.JPG



__ geerock
__ Feb 6, 2012






Modified MES 40 Gen 2, Traeger Texas Elite pellet smoker with another MES 40 attached, and home built smokehouse pictured here.


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## geerock

20140106_192132.jpg



__ geerock
__ Jan 6, 2014






Here's the Traeger / MES marriage.  Traeger has a smoke daddy installed behind the hopper and the MES is controlled by another Auber.  The mes can be used independent of the Traeger or use the heat and smoke generated by the pellets.


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## frank68

can you tell me how to put it on the MES so it will work

how high can you get the temp on the MES   

thank     frank 68


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## jted

~~~Frank, I don't know about your model but my 30" is suppose run at a high of 275 but that was with the original controller. I am sure with a Auber controller it would be higher but one of the other posters with a similar smoker and controller will chime in Jted


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## tjnamtiw

TexasCoast said:


> I originally went to my local Air Conditioning & Heating supplier, he knew exactly what I was talking about.
> 
> These devices are used in things like home heaters and dryers to prevent overheating, they are meant to replaced, if needed.
> 
> He gave me an old one to test, just to see if it would work, I tried it, it worked fine.
> 
> The only problem was we did not know the tripping temperature of the item, but it proved my point.
> 
> Today, on Amazon.com, I found what looks to match the temperature range I think I need, below you will see what I ordered, cost is $6 for 5.
> [h1]*Amico 5 Pcs KSD301 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat 150 Celsius N.C.*[/h1]
> 150 Celsius converts to *302 Fahrenheit*, the max. temp for the MasterBuilt Electric is 275deg. so I figured 302 would be safe.
> 
> The item comes in Jan. 2nd.
> 
> I will let you know how it goes!!
> 
> Happy New Year,
> 
> John


Those are what we pellet stove owners call snap disks.  They can be had for many temperature setpoints.  In fact, you can get an adjustable one from Grainger for a very modest price.


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## jted

~~~I received my new Auber PID controller. I went with the WS 1200 since I have several temp. gauges with probes and did not want to invest 180.00. I may be sorry later but right now I am very happy. We had a break in the weather last week and I cut my old cord(16/3) and removed my data plate for Masterbuilt. I found some high temp push on connectors at a local hardware store that sells a lot of heating elements. I happened to have a 1/2 " strain relief That is a conduit fitting that supports SO cord. I had a piece of 14/3 SO cord. I screwed the inspection plate to a scrap piece of wood to support it while I used a hole saw to cut the hole for the strain relief I used a existing interior screw to attach the ground and hooked up the hot and neutral wires(Black and white) I had run out of time and had to finish up quickly. Then the cold and snow returned so that cost me another week but yesterday It was 40+ so I hooked it up and it ran great. I think we will have another break in several days after the next cold spell in the 20's and lows in the low teens. That is about as cold as it gets in central VA. I will be smoking soon. I got to thinking that a little more information might be good to have. A good place to find amperage values of your wire and wire adaptors can be found at this link http://www.stayonline.com/nema-straight-15-amp-adapters.aspx Their prices look good but I don"t know about there shipping rates. The connectors and fittings can also be found at a electrical supply house. You will find a counter man that is willing to work with you. Jted


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## texascoast

MES 30”, Falling smoker Temp after 2hours of smoking!!!

  Last used MES April 2015, used again on May 25, Memorial Day!

Started smoking Chicken breasts and BB Ribs, about 1hr into the smoke the MES started loosing temp.

It was steadily dropping temp. Had to finish the food on the Gas Grill!

  Next day I started doing all of the standard MES problem checking, Checked Input Volts and Amps to unit all good.

Element checked out good!

    Took the back cover off the unit and I found one of the Female wiring connectors going to Temp. Limit Switch (KSD301) had major rust on it.

Upon closer inspection I found one of the Female wiring connectors had major rust on it, about 1.5mm of metal left connecting to Temp. Limit switch.

Yes, this was original MES wiring which also had a none conductive sleeve on the female connector.

  I cleaned the Temp. Limit Switch and temporarily replaced the Female wire connector and was back up smoking again.

   At this point I decided it was time to use the "Texacajun’s"  MES rewiring write up.

I ordered the 12gauge High Temp. wire and the 90deg High Temp Female Flag connectors.

When all items arrived I cleaned all contacts and new wiring, I then crimped the wire connectors and used High Temp. "No Lead" solder to make the connections to the 

Temp. Limit Switch and the Heating Element. Both of these connection points are now solidly connected together.

     After all was done I Fired up the unit and set it to 275deg. it came up to temp. and held with no problem.

For the next several days I tested the unit to 275deg. and had it hold temp. for a couple of hours, Still No problems.

    It may be my imagination but the unit seemed to reach and hold the set Temp. quicker then before wiring upgrade and soldered connections.

     All of the contacts on the bottom side of the unit have been cleaned, some were replaced, I then applied "Spark Plug High Temp. Boot Grease", 100% Silicone grease, to all connectors.

I am trying to prevent corrosion on any of the connectors since I live in a high humidity area.

I have also build a 2’L x 2’D x 1.5’H wooden stand that the MES 30” now sits on, yes I do have a cover on it also.

My MES does stay outside on a covered porch area.

I have used the unit several time since the Wiring Upgrade and all is good!!

I hope this write up helps fellow MES or other Electric Smoker users!

Later,

John


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## jted

John, You solved your problems the right way. You are good to go. Good luck.  Jted


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## daricksta

TexasCoast said:


> MES 30”, Falling smoker Temp after 2hours of smoking!!!
> 
> Last used MES April 2015, used again on May 25, Memorial Day!
> 
> Started smoking Chicken breasts and BB Ribs, about 1hr into the smoke the MES started loosing temp.
> 
> It was steadily dropping temp. Had to finish the food on the Gas Grill!
> 
> Next day I started doing all of the standard MES problem checking, Checked Input Volts and Amps to unit all good.
> 
> Element checked out good!
> 
> Took the back cover off the unit and I found one of the Female wiring connectors going to Temp. Limit Switch (KSD301) had major rust on it.
> 
> Upon closer inspection I found one of the Female wiring connectors had major rust on it, about 1.5mm of metal left connecting to Temp. Limit switch.
> 
> Yes, this was original MES wiring which also had a none conductive sleeve on the female connector.
> 
> I cleaned the Temp. Limit Switch and temporarily replaced the Female wire connector and was back up smoking again.
> 
> At this point I decided it was time to use the "Texacajun’s"  MES rewiring write up.
> 
> I ordered the 12gauge High Temp. wire and the 90deg High Temp Female Flag connectors.
> 
> When all items arrived I cleaned all contacts and new wiring, I then crimped the wire connectors and used High Temp. "No Lead" solder to make the connections to the
> 
> Temp. Limit Switch and the Heating Element. Both of these connection points are now solidly connected together.
> 
> After all was done I Fired up the unit and set it to 275deg. it came up to temp. and held with no problem.
> 
> For the next several days I tested the unit to 275deg. and had it hold temp. for a couple of hours, Still No problems.
> 
> It may be my imagination but the unit seemed to reach and hold the set Temp. quicker then before wiring upgrade and soldered connections.
> 
> All of the contacts on the bottom side of the unit have been cleaned, some were replaced, I then applied "Spark Plug High Temp. Boot Grease", 100% Silicone grease, to all connectors.
> 
> I am trying to prevent corrosion on any of the connectors since I live in a high humidity area.
> 
> I have also build a 2’L x 2’D x 1.5’H wooden stand that the MES 30” now sits on, yes I do have a cover on it also.
> 
> My MES does stay outside on a covered porch area.
> 
> I have used the unit several time since the Wiring Upgrade and all is good!!
> 
> I hope this write up helps fellow MES or other Electric Smoker users!
> 
> Later,
> 
> John


Great post. John. I may need to re-read this if my MES controller is starting to have problems.


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## wa0auu

THat heat control is called a clicks-on, that is what keep your smoker from going over 275, if you want it to get hotter just change that out to one say rated at 3oo, I did works fine


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## NewOrleanian

I just got off the phone with Masterbuilt.  Great people.  They originally told me my smoker needed a new element, even though I thought it had to be something else.  When I put the new element in and it still didn't work I did more digging and found the main relay board in a panel on the bottom of the smoker was what had failed.  They said, we should have looked deeper and we're sending you a new one at no charge.  
Great customer service!


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## texascoast

Hey New Orleanian,
    I ran into the same issue awhile back and it turned out to be the thermal override switch called, KSD301, it will cut the power to your heating element if it senses the internal temp of your unit is above about 300deg.
  To find out if your thermal override device is the problem you will need to remove the back of your smoker to get access to the sensor.
   The sensor can be seen from the inside of your unit, it is mounted on the upper left side, it is a dime sized disk that senses the internal temp. of your unit.
 To test your sensor you will need to disconnect the sensor and check the sensor with a multimeter.
The sensor should always read as On, it is a one use device.
   I purchased a package of 5 replacement KSD301s from Amazon for under $10.00

Good Luck on your repairs,

Texas Coast


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## NewOrleanian

Thanks, Texascoast.  I had already checked the KSD301 switch and it was fine.  When I powered it up both sides of the switch and both sides of the heating element were at 120V, so I knew there had to be a problem somewhere else.  When I flipped it on its face and opened the controller compartment on the bottom I found one of the pins for the heating element connector was discolored, and there was some brown schmoo and a burnt insulation smell.  After unplugging and reconnecting the plug it worked, but obviously the electronics were not happy.  

It's got to do 2 turkeys for Thanksgiving in 2 days, so we'll be watching it and if it goes awol again we are ready for plan B to finish the cooking.


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