# Cook chamber gasket using caulking



## hotpit (Nov 19, 2012)

I'm on a Facebook page called fans of jambo pits and they are very secretive of many ideas.  They have mentioned the use of Hugh temp caulking to make gaskets for cook chamber.  Does anyone here have experience with this????


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## sqwib (Nov 19, 2012)

Yep
High temp silicone

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/518NN+SAXnL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Black-500 degrees
Red-650 degrees


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## s2k9k (Nov 19, 2012)

Permatex Ultra Black RTV


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## linguica (Nov 19, 2012)

S2K9K said:


> Permatex Ultra Black RTV


Could I use sodium silicate adhesive for wood stoves to put gasket material on my smoker?


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## hotpit (Nov 20, 2012)

But I guess my real question is exactly how do you do this without "glueing" the door shut.   My doors fit pretty darn good, but still need a thin gasket. Stove rope would be way too thick.


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## sparkypyro (Nov 20, 2012)

Place wax paper between the silicon bead around the smoker opening and the door. When dry open door and remove wax paper.


Sent from my iPhone using voodoo and smoke signals.


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## rbranstner (Nov 20, 2012)

I was able to find one store in town that has high temp food grade caulking but it took a lot of calling around to find it. Start with any of your food distribution stores first. That's where I got the lead on mine. Or you can find it on line.


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## rbranstner (Nov 20, 2012)

hotpit said:


> But I guess my real question is exactly how do you do this without "glueing" the door shut. My doors fit pretty darn good, but still need a thin gasket. Stove rope would be way too thick.


I'm guessing you would have your doors open and then put a bead of caulk around the door and smoker opening and then let it dry with the door still open and then once it's cured you can close the door and it should make a good seal. That's just me thinking out loud though.


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## chilefarmer (Nov 20, 2012)

Apply the high temp sealer, cover with scram wrap or wax paper. Close door over covered sealer. Let the sealer set up. Open door and remove scram wrap or wax paper. Worked for me. CF


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## jwbtulsa (Nov 20, 2012)

I found a 10oz. tube of Rutland brand black high heat fireplace silicone sealant at an ACE Hardware here in Tulsa. I applied it liberally with a standard caulking gun. Lots easier than those Permatex tubes. $10.00.  I even used it on my firebox. rated to 500 F and hasn't burned off yet.

I did make a mistake and forgot to remove the wax paper after the sealant cured. The paper had adhered badly to the sealant. I simply cut away the damaged area and then applied another load of sealant.  The second time I also managed to get the sealant all over the place. Good thing it was a black product! I figured who cares if it's not perfect, it stops the leaks! If it wears out, I can use a grinding wheel and remove it and then repaint and do it all over again. The old BellFab offset makes some good Q

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1445567&cagpspn=pla

View media item 152644


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## daveomak (Nov 20, 2012)

Linguica said:


> S2K9K said:
> 
> 
> > Permatex Ultra Black RTV
> ...


  Yes... that would work very well......  Dave


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## linguica (Nov 20, 2012)

Thank you for the info.....Paul


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## sqwib (Nov 20, 2012)

hotpit said:


> But I guess my real question is exactly how do you do this without "glueing" the door shut. My doors fit pretty darn good, but still need a thin gasket. Stove rope would be way too thick.


if its that tight leave it be.


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## linguica (Nov 20, 2012)

hotpit said:


> But I guess my real question is exactly how do you do this without "glueing" the door shut. My doors fit pretty darn good, but still need a thin gasket. Stove rope would be way too thick.


They make thin gasket material. Here is one of many sources, amazon, E_Bay.


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## garand555 (Nov 27, 2012)

chilefarmer said:


> Apply the high temp sealer, cover with scram wrap or wax paper. Close door over covered sealer. Let the sealer set up. Open door and remove scram wrap or wax paper. Worked for me. CF



This.  The door on mine is 1/4" steel that is slightly warped simply because I already had the steel and it was already slightly warped.  I used silicone that you can get from just about any hardware store, put a bead around the door, applied the plastic wrap, shut the door so it was almost but not quite latched down all the way (maybe 1/16" away from being fully clamped down,) and it has worked like a charm.  I did the same for my fire door and it is still good.  FYI, it's probably not necessary, but the stuff I used was listed as food safe, though it's been long enough I don't remember the brand.


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