# Is this a WSM?  Need answers fast!



## dml85 (Oct 1, 2012)

Is this a WSM?  It looks like ones to me but i'm not 100%.  I found a very good deal for it, just want to make sure.













5H45Je5M53G13K63J2ca1c5db33c1ff041d04.jpg



__ dml85
__ Oct 1, 2012


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## tdwester (Oct 1, 2012)

Sure looks like a WSM.


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## dml85 (Oct 1, 2012)

That's what I'm thinking, I found a craigslist ad for it for $10............

Trying to hop on it like right now!!!!!!!


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## meatinc (Oct 1, 2012)

Looks like a WSM to me.  The legs are a little different - like maybe they pinched them together - but for $10 is looks worth it to me.


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## BGKYSmoker (Oct 1, 2012)

yes it is


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## smokinhusker (Oct 1, 2012)

It does look like one...good luck!


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## dml85 (Oct 1, 2012)

Picked it up tonight for $10.  Definitely looks like its   
been sitting in someones garage for a while.  I need to replace the bottom dampers, the door on the dude whatever that is called and new grates.  Anyone know a good place to buy online?  Also, are both grates inside the same size?  In my case this is the 18.5 model.  Would the 22.5 damper kits work on mine?

I'm so ready to smoke in this thing


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## scarbelly (Oct 1, 2012)

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+
Show map of 7851 Clairemont Mesa Blvd

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## roller (Oct 1, 2012)

It looks like the one Craig used to have...Lol


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## fpnmf (Oct 1, 2012)

Roller said:


> It looks like the one Craig used to have...Lol















big butt  9-12--12 007.JPG



__ fpnmf
__ Sep 30, 2012






Hahahahahahahahaha!!!













clean  wsm 001.JPG



__ fpnmf
__ Sep 30, 2012


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## dml85 (Oct 1, 2012)

Can someone tell me if the damper kits and door assembly are universal between the 22.5 and 18.5?  I can't find anyone with 18.5 parts in stock, but can find the 22.5 easily... Does Lowes/Home Depot sell this stuff in store? 

Well I just answered my own question, the door is a different size.  How about the damper kits?


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## JckDanls 07 (Oct 1, 2012)

No..  I don't believe Lowes or Home Depot sells those kind of parts..  They might have the grates tho


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## fpnmf (Oct 1, 2012)

A great forum...

http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/


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## dml85 (Oct 1, 2012)

Well I hope the parts I bought fit.  I just spent 15 minutes looking on my grill for some number that Weber support says should be there, but wasn't.  Maybe mine is so old that the number wore off or something.  I just know it's the 18.5 model, so I ordered the parts that would fit the 18.5 model.  $52 in parts and $10 for the smoker.  $62 total for my WSM, as long as these parts work!!


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## linguica (Oct 1, 2012)

fpnmf said:


> A great forum...
> 
> http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/


A great site for cooking consistently good ribs


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## dward51 (Oct 1, 2012)

No, the dampers for the 22" and 18" are different.  4 holes vs 3 holes on the 18".  Why do you need new dampers?  The two I can see look just fine (after cleaning) and I would suspect the other two on the bottom section are in the same shape as the one I can see.    Looks to be the "Old" style WSM (before they changed the design and added the heat deflector under the charcoal bowl a few years ago).   Parts should be available from Weber at their customer service line as I see you already found out.  

The number Weber is asking for should be stamped on the top vent and is a very short code indicating date of manufacturer.  The WSM has no serial number per se, only a manufacturer date stamp.  Here is an example of a "EE" date code for a 1999 model.  If it has no date code it is pre-1979 (ie a rare WSM for sure, but yours has the grey handle and the oldest models have wood, so it's probably a 2000 to 2008 model).   Find your date code and then you can go to the Virtual Weber Bulletin Board site and download the parts schematic and owners manual for the right design (the "old style" was made through 2008 and the new style came out in 2009).  I would suggest you browse that site also as they are heavily dedicated to the WSM smokers and have a lot of info on modifications, tips and different smoking techniques geared specifically for the WSM.  Just make sure not to forget about your buddies back here at SMF though!

[font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]A: 1979
B: 1980
C: 1981
D: 1982
 [/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]E: 1983
F: 1984
G: 1985
H: 1986[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]J: 1987
K: 1988
L: 1989
M: 1990[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]N: 1991
O: 1992
P: 1993
EH: 1994[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]EO: 1995
ER: 1996
EI: 1997
EZ: 1998[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]EE: 1999
DD: 2000
DA: 2001
DU: 2002[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]DT: 2003
DH: 2004
DO: 2005
DR: 2006[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]DI: 2007
DZ: 2008
DE: 2009
AD: 2010[/font][font=Arial,Verdana,Helvetica,sans-serif]AA: 2011
AU: 2012[/font]
*$62 out the door for a WSM is a steal of a deal - sharp eye on a great craigslist find.*

Parts schematics (all years & models)

http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/partschematic.html

Owners manuals

http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/ownersmanual.html

Date code example ("EE" for 1999)













vent.jpg



__ dward51
__ Oct 1, 2012






Oh, and the first thing I would do with a Pre-2009 WSM is head on over to your local Academy Sports and pick up a Brinkman CHARCOAL pan.  It's the same diameter as the original shallow pre-2009 WSM water pan and holds about 3 times as much water so you don't have to fill it as often in a long smoke such as when doing pork shoulders.  Should be about $7.  I bought two and stacked them as the metal is thin in the Brinkman pans (they don't call them ECB or "El Cheapo Brinkman" for nothing).  Once you have traditional smoking in a WSM with the water pan figured out get a #14 clay flower pot base from Walmart or Home Depot (usually just stamped "14") and wrap it with foil to use in a dry water pan (I would use the shallow WSM pan for this).  It replaces the water as a heat sink and temp regulator and you get longer smokes using less charcoal.  But figure out the traditional water pan method first.


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## dml85 (Oct 1, 2012)

Just an fyi, my handle is wooden

The bottom dampers are stuck in place and the ones you can't see are bent to hell

Just curious, do I need a water tray? Does how does it mount?


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## dward51 (Oct 1, 2012)

Oh wow!!! I thought it was the grey nylon handle in the photo, but after another closer look it is wood.  You have an older model as they went to the grey nylon starting in the 2000 year model.  What's the date code stamped in the top vent?  Also if you replace the top vent, make sure you keep that date code as Weber will ask you for it and that is how they determine what series of parts to send if you order more (plus warranty info, if any still applies).  It should be either a single or double letter code stamped in the silver metal of the vent (may be faint).

I'm not sure exactly what is involved in riveting in the replacement vents but I'm sure it can be done.  As to the water pan, it fits in the bottom of the smoking chamber below the bottom rack but above the charcoal ring.  Should be some little stepped tabs on the inside of the mid section, water pan goes on the bottom step and bottom food grate goes on the one above it.  Traditionally you fill it with water to help moderate the temp swings and some would argue to add moisture to the smoke.  Remember it takes a good bit of energy to flash water to steam so it helps to keep the temps from spiking like it would without the water or some other mass to "moderate" the swings.  You can cook without a water pan, and if you are doing a higher temp cook at say 375* for chicken, you would leave it out anyway.  That's the beauty of a WSM they are very versatile and can be configured different ways.

Did you get all the parts?  Should have the following:

Base (clearly visible in the photo so you have it)

Mid section (same here)

Dome top (ditto)

Mid section door

Top cooking grate (goes in mid-section)

Bottom cooking grate (goes in mid-section)

Charcoal grate (smaller than the two listed above and goes in the base)

Charcoal or fire ring (round thing with holes in it that sits on the charcoal grate)

Water pan

I think that's all the main components.  If you are missing any parts, post here before ordering from Weber, as there are usually local alternative sources for most of the parts except for the body parts.  Grates, water pans, etc... can usually be found locally or a local substitute such as making a fire ring out of expanded metal sheet will work just fine (a home depot stock item).

I added a 2nd charcoal grate turned 90* to my original one and wired the two grates and the fire ring in place to the two charcoal grates.  Turning the two at 90* gives you a smaller space between the grates and you have less trouble with small pieces of charcoal that might still be good and lit falling through the grate.  I also added a BBQ Guru DigiQ2 power draft, but there is no need to spend that sort of money up front and it's probably better you learn the smoker without a digital controlled power draft (it makes the WSM into the Cadillac model and as close to set and forget as you can be with a charcoal smoker).

Man I could ramble on for days about a WSM and there are a lot of us here that swear by them.  The WSM is a sweat smoker and is somewhat forgiving due to the design. Again, I strongly recommend spending several hours browsing the TVWBB website as it's mainly dedicated to the WSM smoker and other stuff is secondary there.   Lots of photos, videos, etc...  info on basic intro smokes for the first time and it just goes on from there.  The owner of that site is tied in with Amazon and well known at Weber.  The Weber customer service folks will also suggest you visit the TVWBB site.

Start at this page as it has cut-a-way photos.  Just start reading, follow the links, look at the assembly instructions section (to make sure you have all the parts, what they look like, and how they fit together, etc....)

http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/tour.html

And when you are ready, go to this page and start smoking.  You can go with a beginner smoke, or if you are feeling froggy, just jump right in where you feel comfortable.  Once you have graduated to the 18-20 hour pork shoulder overnight smoke, you are ready for just about anything.

http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/cook.html

You are going to love the WSM though........   And like I said there are plenty of us in here that love them too and can give advice specific to the WSM.  Just remember - post often, and include photos!!!!


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## dml85 (Oct 2, 2012)

Everything looks like it was there, albeit some of it I didn't plan to use like the grates due to rust.  But the exterior shell is in good shape.  The bottom dampers are in bad shape and won't move.  I'm hoping I can just drill out the rivets and put in the new ones that i believe will just come with screws.  The door assembly didn't fit very well at all either so I ordered one of those.   Then of course new cooking grates.  The water pan is in bad shape, but I'll probably end up doing the brinkmann charcoal pan replacement.I was unable to see any sort of markings on my vent on the top at all.  I'll try and take a picture tonight. 

Like I said I sprayed off and washed the outside and just sprayed out the inside, then lit a full chimney and just let it burn last night since it had been sitting for a while.  

Now I gotta get to reading on TVWBB site!


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## jirodriguez (Oct 2, 2012)

Yes... that is one of the older WSM's. As for parts just buy them direct from Weber, you can call customer service and they will help you identify what parts to buy. The 22.5" # 18.5" doors are not interchangeable, but the dampers may be... not 100% sure on that one.


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## dward51 (Oct 2, 2012)

Not sure how badly bent the vents are, but if it's stuck they probably have some smoking grease on them that has set up.  I went out to look at my top vent date stamp last night when I let the dog out for her last chipmunk patrol of the yard and noticed my top vent is stuck.  Well duh, I think I've only closed it one time since 2005 and that was to quench a grease fire (don't ask - my bad).   I suspect that if it was heated up the grease/gunk would be loose enough to slide the vent, and suspect the same would true of yours as well.  So before you do the drill and replace thing, you might try some heat or even a little WD40 to soak in overnight.

Your call as we have not seen the vents and you have.


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## fpnmf (Oct 2, 2012)

>>>[color= rgb(24, 24, 24)]  a little WD40 to soak in overnight.[/color]

[color= rgb(24, 24, 24)]wd40 is 99% kerosene..use PB Blaster..works great!![/color]


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## dward51 (Oct 2, 2012)

Yep, good stuff too. 

I just kind of hate to see an old WSM (especially if it's a very old no date stamp model) be modified if the original parts can be salvaged and bent back into alignment.


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## dml85 (Oct 3, 2012)

I'll give it a shot to loosen up the dampers.  A couple were bent pretty bad, but if I can just bend them back and still get good seals when closing then I'll just stick with them.  I put some PB Blaster on the dampers the first night but didn't put much on, so I make go a little heavy and just let it sit.


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## linguica (Oct 3, 2012)

When the dampers on my Weber locked up, I drilled out the rivets, wire brushed the metal and replaced it with small nut and bolt secured with a jam nut.


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## dml85 (Oct 3, 2012)

That's what I was thinking to do.  I'll see if i can make the originals work, if not i'll replace them.  I bought another set, only $6.


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## JckDanls 07 (Oct 3, 2012)

try a torch just to heat em up a little and see if they will break loose...


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## linguica (Oct 3, 2012)

JckDanls 07 said:


> try a torch just to heat em up a little and see if they will break loose...


With care..........aluminum melts at 1221 deg F


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## JckDanls 07 (Oct 4, 2012)

Linguica said:


> With care..........aluminum melts at 1221 deg F



Yea..  I only meant a butane (map) torch..  not oxy-acetylene


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## linguica (Oct 4, 2012)

JckDanls 07 said:


> Yea.. I only meant a butane (map) torch.. not oxy-acetylene


A *propane torch* is a tool for burning the flammable gas propane (C[sub]3[/sub]H[sub]8[/sub]). The maximum adiabatic flame temperature a propane torch can achieve with air is 2,268 kelvins (1,995 °C/3,623 °F). Some propane torches are also used with a tank of pure oxygen to achieve a flame temperature nearing 3,095 kelvins (2,820 °C/5,110 °F).

The maximum adiabatic _flame temperature of butane_ with air is 2,243 K (1,970 °C; 3,578 °F).

Work heat transfer temperature will be sustainably lower but still above 1200 deg F.

  A lot of fancy words, yes. A few years ago I was using a mapp tourch on a piece of aluminum. One moment it's on my bike, the next it's a puddle on mt shoe. It melted really fast.


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