# 30" Master Built electric smoker



## dlake (Feb 2, 2017)

This is my first I need help Temp. Keeps rising in smoker. I can set the temp on the digital display @225 then time. When smoker reaches 225 the light will go off but heating element never cuts off. Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be?


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## goldmine1965 (Feb 3, 2017)

I wonder if it is a defective controller. Not sending the signal to the element to shut down. I know the temps will continue to coast for a time, but have not heard of never shutting off. I would call Masterbuilt, I hear they have excellent customer service. And they promptly send out replacement parts.


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## stovebolt (Feb 3, 2017)

The element is switched by a relay. Most likely the relay points have stuck together so it keeps the element on even with no switching power being sent. Cool the unit off, plug it in and press the on button without setting temp or time. If it heats up the relay should be the problem.

  They would likely replace the whole box if that is the case.

Chuck


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## dlake (Feb 3, 2017)

Thanks Chuck I have already called MB customer service talked to a nice young lady which seem to think that I needed a new controller, and although it was 13 months old they would send me one for free of charge. It came in a couple days ago plugged it in unit did same thing. I am about to try what you suggested to see if the relay is stuck. But as far as MB sending new cabinet that is out of the question they wanted to charge me more than what I paid for it new from Gander Mountain, also I would have to transfer several parts from the old one. If the relay is stuck is there any other fix that I could do and not have to go through MB?


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## dlake (Feb 3, 2017)

Chuck tried your suggestion of just turning the unit on and see if the temp would rise with out setting, it did not so I guess that clears relay. Guess it could still be the main box on bottom.

 Berefood I may have to get PID controller.


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## dlake (Feb 3, 2017)

Chuck tried your suggestion of just turning the unit on and see if the temp would rise with out setting, it did not so I guess that clears relay. Guess it could still be the main box on bottom.

May have to get PID


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## dlake (Feb 3, 2017)

Tried setting it at 200 let it reach temp heard the relay click red heat light went off. I unplugged it let it cool then plugged back up no heat so do you think it is the relay? Another question when the door is open on the right side 3/4 up from floor there is a probe what is this and could it be bad?


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## dlake (Feb 3, 2017)

The heating element must cutback but never completely off because the temp in the cabinet never stops rising. The temp has been as high as 300 when I cut it off. The heating element has easy access with the chip tray pulled out and I think the relay is in a box on the bottom of the unit. The last test was with the new controller.


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## dlake (Feb 3, 2017)

I will check the box out on the bottom of the unit and see if there is a relay visible. By the way do you have any idea what the probe is 3/4  up from the bottom on the inside right of the unit?


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## dr k (Feb 4, 2017)

berefood said:


> The relay is what lets electricity pass thru to the heating element.  It sounds like it is malfunctioning at some point in the heating process but not all the time. You did get a free controller so the cost of a relay might not be a bad investment.  If you liked the way the smoker worked prior to the problem I would look into a new relay. Cost being the main factor.  Factor the cost vs a PID. The PID is far superior and will last much longer but you loose some of the functions of the smoker.


After I replaced my heating element lugs I plugged in the smoker, turned it on so the green power light is on but did not program it to call for heat.  With the 120VAC meter on one lug and the other on the chasis I was reading 120VAC to ground. The other lug to chasis was oVAC. So the controller relay switch would be on the negative lead?  If there is a short between the negativer lug and switch on a non gfci outlet then the heating element would stay on without being programed to heat?
-Kurt


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## dlake (Feb 4, 2017)

Thanks Kurt I will check that in the morning.


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## dr k (Feb 4, 2017)

dlake said:


> Thanks Kurt I will check that in the morning.


I don't t know if this would be your problem but shouldn't the relay switch be on the hot lead?  I don't have a problem with my smoker but the hot lug attached to the heating element leg when just powered on and being energized sounds dangerous. I wonder if others have checked each lug to ground when only powered on?
-Kurt


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## dlake (Feb 4, 2017)

Checked it this morning same as yours one leg had 120V to ground the other 0 VAC. That wire goes to a box on the bottom side of the cabinet where I would guess the relay would be.


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## dr k (Feb 4, 2017)

dlake said:


> Checked it this morning same as yours one leg had 120V to ground the other 0 VAC. That wire goes to a box on the bottom side of the cabinet where I would guess the relay would be.


That's probably why the entire junction box/cover plate interior is insulated with rubber. With the lousy flag connectors that come with the mes and the rate that they disintegrate, leaving a bare wire sticking up in that junction box like mine was that could be a bad design. I unplug when done smoking but a controller left on from an expired timer that has a failed connector and bare wire finding it's way to ground is an energized chassis. I guess a gfci would trip but unnerving. A buddy of mine that's an electrical engineer tested for this and had concerns. 
-Kurt


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## dlake (Feb 4, 2017)

Tried all I know took the cover off the small box located on the bottom of the unit found small relay was able to read the values. placed an order for one a few min. ago.


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## dlake (Feb 4, 2017)

Update I forgot to check the relay to see if it was bad or not. It is a normally open relay, when I checked It was open. Does this mean my problem could still be the relay. all the help. I will post an update I will post an up date when I get the new one installed.


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## johnmeyer (Feb 5, 2017)

Masterbuilt just sent me a new controller for a 30" gen-2 MES. I had several problems, one of which was the heating element not shutting off.

The new controller seems to have fixed everything.

However, I have read a LOT of the posts about problems with the MES, and when Masterbuilt sends a new controller, it seems to fix the problem for about 3/4 of the people, meaning that about a quarter still have a problem.

I'd wait until the controller arrives and see if you are one of the lucky 75%. I was in that group and am up and smoking again.


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## dlake (Feb 5, 2017)

I looked at the relay wrong it is a N/O and it read ok. Confused

John I installed the new controller hasn't helped.


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## johnmeyer (Feb 6, 2017)

dlake said:


> John I installed the new controller hasn't helped.


Oops, I missed that. Sorry.


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## dlake (Feb 17, 2017)

The new relay came in, just installed it no change set temp at 200 never stopped rising unplugged unit at 300. Don't know what to do now. HELP


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## browneyesvictim (Feb 17, 2017)

If it were me, I would be getting out my multi-meter and a schematic. If the red light on the panel is going out when it is supposed it seems the controller is working as it should and it should cut power to the relay for the heating element. Test this signal wire from the control board to the relay FIRST. Then  I would definitely check the wires are on the correct terminals of the relay and that is working/switching correctly. Since you say you have already replaced the control board, the relay and/or connections seem suspicious and the most likely to me. Really there is nothing else left.


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## johnmeyer (Feb 17, 2017)

I agree with Browneyesvictim.


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## browneyesvictim (Feb 17, 2017)

I would like to add... CHECK ALL YOUR GROUND WIRES also, and they are tight, not corroded, or not otherwise a good connection to BARE metal. I know there is one for the element itself, but there is probably one for the relay also. There will definitely be one for the control board. The terminals and terminations can fail because of heat, corrosion, vibration, etc. check them all carefully.


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## dlake (Feb 17, 2017)

Thanks I will check it tomorrow and let you know what I find.


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## Bearcarver (Feb 19, 2017)

After all this Headache, I would call Masterbuilt again.

Be nice, but tell them the whole story. I've seen them send out a new unit, and then have you cut the cord off your old one & send them a pic of it.

Worth a Try.

Bear


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## dlake (Mar 1, 2017)

Well I made it back. The new relay finally come in installed it a couple days ago no change. I checked again to see if the element would get hot when you just plugged the unit in and it does, took the cover off over the element so it could be seen and right off I thought I found the problem the element was laying on the chip tray support so I found a small piece of ceramic placed It between the support and the element plugged unit into 120 it heat up without turning unit on. A while back we checked with the volt meter on the connections to the element one side has 120 volts to ground the other side reads 0 volts, as I was doing this I looked inside the unit the element was red hot for about 1/2 in. on the lead that checked 0 volts to ground, also there was a small hole in that 1/2in circle. Could the element be the problem??????????????


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## browneyesvictim (Mar 1, 2017)

_  I checked again to see if the element would get hot when you just plugged the unit in and it does, _

     How hot will it get? Will it come up to full temp? over temp? If you just plugged it in without turning it on, obviously something is still amiss. *Again- Test this signal wire from the control board to the relay FIRST!*

_took the cover off over the element so it could be seen and right off I thought I found the problem the element was laying on the chip tray support so I found a small piece of ceramic placed It between the support and the element _

     It is normal for the element to touch what you are calling the chip tray support. You shouldn't need that ceramic, but not sure if it would hurt anything either. I would leave it out myself

_plugged unit into 120 it heat up without turning unit on. _

     Something is still not right.

_A while back we checked with the volt meter on the connections to the element one side has 120 volts to ground the other side reads 0 volts, _

     This would be correct depending on how you had your leads. With the terminals to the element disconnected, check Ohms (continuity) through the element.

_as I was doing this I looked inside the unit the element was red hot for about 1/2 in. on the lead that checked 0 volts to ground, also there was a small hole in that 1/2in circle. Could the element be the problem??????????????_

     Possibly. It is possible you have more than one issue. If there is a small hole in the element, I would replace it. That little hole is what it looked like on the bad element I just changed this week. BUT. If the element is heating and getting to full temp, then it is working . It either is, or it isn't.

dlake- I don't mean to insult you and I hope I don't sound condescending, but do you have a buddy or someone you can call that understands electronics and electricity a little better? You know what you are working with can kill you, right?


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## dr k (Mar 1, 2017)

I think you may have two different problems as well. The element is deteriorating and when the unit is plugged in or just the power light is on there is a closed circuit through the heating element. Something is shorted out or electricity isn't taking the intended path it's designed to take through the controller/circuit boards/wiring. 
-Kurt


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## tallbm (Mar 1, 2017)

Sounds like time to rewire and use a PID controller.  It actually isn't that complicated but takes some tinkering, tools, and some time.

If you use an AMNPS for smoke generation and add a PID controller (with the rewire job) you have basically eliminated the major issues the MES comes with.

It sounds to me like you are going to need to take the back off and inspect wiring, connections, and the element anyhow.  That is half the work of the rewire job. 

In any case best of luck with the fix of your MES :)


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## dlake (Mar 1, 2017)

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions Browneye I may not be able to express my knowledge into writing but I was a telephone man for 38 years I know a little about electricity and how to read a volt meter not being disrespectful and 90volts dc ringing current will kill also.

One more question since this is ac that we are working with does it matter which side the leads are plugged to on the element just asking.


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## dr k (Mar 1, 2017)

dlake said:


> Thanks for all the comments and suggestions Browneye I may not be able to express my knowledge into writing but I was a telephone man for 38 years I know a little about electricity and how to read a volt meter not being disrespectful and 90volts dc ringing current will kill also.
> One more question since this is ac that we are working with does it matter which side the leads are plugged to on the element just asking.


I have two identical smokers and the elements are wired opposite from the other so it doesn't matter. 
-Kurt


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## dlake (Mar 1, 2017)

Dr K when I switched the leads and plugged unit into 120 it tripped the breaker on the wall. I believe the element is shorted out.


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## dlake (Mar 4, 2017)

Problem solved element was bad. Thanks for all the help.


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## Bearcarver (Mar 4, 2017)

dlake said:


> Problem solved element was bad. Thanks for all the help.


Glad you found the Problem---The rest should be easy. 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Bear


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## tallbm (Mar 6, 2017)

Glad to hear it was fixed.  Can't wait to see what gets smoked :)


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