# Masterbuilt Vertical 2 door Smoker Mods



## chadnicoletti (Jan 18, 2021)

Hello all,
I've had this smoker for a little over a year now. Thanks to all of the various tips on modding the Masterbuilt propane units! First mod I did was the cast iron pan replacing the hardly useful chip tray the unit came with. I place the 8" cast iron directly on the burner ring, and have excellent results. Second mod I did was install a needle valve in line, which really helps to control temperature as well as keep it consistent.  I have smoked all kind of meats with this very budget friendly unit, with awesome results. Last time I smoked with it was Christmas Eve and being in NE Ohio, we had snow falling and pretty consistent winds. My unit has no good flame protection, and with the winds I had to go ignite the flame 10+ times throughout the 8 hr smoke.  To fix this today I welded on skirts using scrap sheet metal , which I really think will make a difference. I do find this unit to be very needy, and sort of wish I had an electric unit for consistency.  

What other mods do you all suggest to make this unit the absolute most consistent?


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## cmayna (Jan 18, 2021)

How do you supply wood to the smoker?  I use an Amazen tube  with pellets right inside the lower door.   This places the tube above the burner which gives the tube a good chance in producing smoke.   I also added a small smoke stack on top to help produce a better vent than my old original vent in back.


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## chadnicoletti (Jan 18, 2021)

cmayna said:


> How do you supply wood to the smoker?  I use an Amazen tube  with pellets right inside the lower door.   This places the tube above the burner which gives the tube a good chance in producing smoke.   I also added a small smoke stack on top to help produce a better vent than my old original vent in back.


I use large chunks of wood. Usually 2-3 large pieces.


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## ChuxPick (Jan 18, 2021)

Have you thought of using a welding blanket to insulate it and keep the wind at bay. If you do, you  will need to modify it so you can use your vents. 
I also use an Amazen tube like 

 cmayna
 suggested as well.  When I use the tube I place it above one of the lower vent holes on the lowest rack, I also elevate the open end of the tube slightly. Also at times I use the ci with chunks and the tube at the same time. I have set the tube on the chip tray rack but I did not like the results, it had a very noticeable lack of smoke.


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## chadnicoletti (Jan 18, 2021)

ChuxPick said:


> Have you thought of using a welding blanket to insulate it and keep the wind at bay. If you do, you  will need to modify it so you can use your vents.
> I also use an Amazen tube like
> 
> cmayna
> suggested as well.  When I use the tube I place it above one of the lower vent holes on the lowest rack, I also elevate the open end of the tube slightly. Also at times I use the ci with chunks and the tube at the same time. I have set the tube on the chip tray rack but I did not like the results, it had a very noticeable lack of smoke.


I have thought of using a welding blanket, but as I said earlier, I welded the openings on the base shut today. There is a small vent window for the hose out of the front lower side beneath the flame adjuster. I think this will greatly help reduce the issues I've had with wind. 

These Amazen tubes seem to be the cat's meow. I may have to give it a shot.

Thanks!


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## ChuxPick (Jan 18, 2021)

Must have miss read the part about welding lower vents shut, in my head I thought I read that you had welded a skirt on it. Thinking you had welded it on the stand legs along the sides and back to block the wind.


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## chadnicoletti (Jan 19, 2021)

ChuxPick said:


> Must have miss read the part about welding lower vents shut, in my head I thought I read that you had welded a skirt on it. Thinking you had welded it on the stand legs along the sides and back to block the wind.


ChuxPix, you were correct in your thinking. My unit is the Masterbuilt 2 door vertical propane smoker, which has only 1 vent at the very top of the rear. I welded the bottom areas in yesterday to block the wind. 

Masterbuilt 2 Door Propane Vertical Smoker


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## OldSmoke (Jan 24, 2021)

This is my design to block wind. It has a baffle over the vents to create a dead air plenum. I live at the west end of the Columbia Gorge so wind is a constant. I have smoked salmon at 145 degrees in 25+ mph winds successfully with no relights. I added a needle valve and screens to keep out insects. I also replaced the regulator with a two-stage propane regulator. Putting a gasket on the door really helps.

Using a smoking tube is a good move. Even with a cast iron pan I could not get consistent smoke with different woods. Hickory was the most difficult. I have since filled the pan with sand to act as a heat sink. I have two tubes, one in the cabinet and one in reserve for long smokes.

I cut in a butterfly vent in the lower portion of the smoking box to increase air flow and control it.

I am very pleased with the modifications. Next up is to move the smoking tubes and/or tray outside of the cabinet. This should stabilize temperature control even further.

The shelf and wheels are also nice additions.


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## chadnicoletti (Jan 25, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> This is my design to block wind. It has a baffle over the vents to create a dead air plenum. I live at the west end of the Columbia Gorge so wind is a constant. I have smoked salmon at 145 degrees in 25+ mph winds successfully with no relights. I added a needle valve and screens to keep out insects. I also replaced the regulator with a two-stage propane regulator. Putting a gasket on the door really helps.
> 
> Using a smoking tube is a good move. Even with a cast iron pan I could not get consistent smoke with different woods. Hickory was the most difficult. I have since filled the pan with sand to act as a heat sink. I have two tubes, one in the cabinet and one in reserve for long smokes.
> 
> ...




 OldSmoke
, your mods are really nice!! I too added a needle valve and felt gasket around all doors. I smoked a pork shoulder on Saturday with the new skirts welded in ( I know the welds aren't pretty, but I'm working with a HFT flux core unit) and with the 25 degree temp and 10-15 mph winds I had 0 relights and meat came out awesome!! I think my next move is casters like yours. The unit is awkward to move , and I know will be way better with wheels. I will also explore your suggestions surrounding the cast iron. My temps are inconsistent and I have to mess with the heat source several times each smoke.

Thank you all for your suggestions and help!!


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## BJMRamage (Jan 25, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> Hello all,
> Second mod I did was install a needle valve in line, which really helps to control temperature as well as keep it consistent.



Hello, I have this same smoker Masterbuilt Propane 230S or something. My first time using it was this past Saturday for a Pork Butt in 25-35º weather with winds 15-25 MPH...so it was hard to keep a constant temp.

What is the needle vavle in line and where does this go?
I assume this helps fine tune the propane output?

I noticed it was hard for me to keep it almost vertical in the Minimum range for 225-250-275...I put felt gasket around the doors so maybe it is too sealed off and warm inside but I didn't have t relight the flame.

Thanks in advance


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## chadnicoletti (Jan 25, 2021)

BJMRamage
 the Needle Valve I installed is in line halfway to the stock valve/heat adjuster. I bought this one, but I am sure anything similar will work. I have read on this forum that the regulator on these units are low pressure, so search for the proper Needle valve on this forum.  

You are correct, the purpose of the needle valve is to lower the output of propane in order to achieve lower temps and add consistency. Just do a quick search on Needle valves and I'm sure you'll find a good setup. I have seen guys replace the stock adjuster with the needle valve itself, so there are a variety of ways to do this. I did what made sense to me at the time, which may or may not be optimal, but works for me. 

The felt gasket is not affecting your inability to maintain consistent temps. These units come from the factory with less than stellar parts that make it difficult to maintain consistent temps. I would scrap the shitbox chip tray and get a cast iron pan 8-10" and burn chunks on it. The skirts I added helped a ton this weekend, but I still had to mess with the heat every hour or so to maintain somewhat consistent temps. Half of me wants to scrap this smoker while I'm in the middle of a long smoke, but the other half of me loves messing with it and modifying it. It's a cheap smoker that can produce delicious meats. For me all of the tuning is half the fun. A true set it and forget it smoker is probably down the line for me, but for the $150.00 I have into my unit, I'll keep er for a few more years.

Good luck!


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## BJMRamage (Jan 26, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> BJMRamage
> the Needle Valve I installed is in line halfway to the stock valve/heat adjuster. I bought this one, but I am sure anything similar will work. I have read on this forum that the regulator on these units are low pressure, so search for the proper Needle valve on this forum.
> 
> You are correct, the purpose of the needle valve is to lower the output of propane in order to achieve lower temps and add consistency. Just do a quick search on Needle valves and I'm sure you'll find a good setup. I have seen guys replace the stock adjuster with the needle valve itself, so there are a variety of ways to do this. I did what made sense to me at the time, which may or may not be optimal, but works for me.
> ...



Thank you. I already purchased the cast iron pan 10" I think to use as my chip/chunk tray.

For the needle valve inline thing...can you post a photo? Did you cut the existing line and add this or buy another hose line to attach? I'll look into it on google as well. It looks like I may need the valve and another hose line (possibly added gas line tape to ensure a tight fit).I was looking to see if there was a single hose from Propane Tank to Smoker that would include a separate valve - I found some but looks like they have a 5/8 not a 3/8 in female end 

The part about the felt gasket was me thinking maybe Masterbuilt knew the doors wont retain as much heat (gaps) and took that into consideration with the valve thinking more heat will escape so you'd need to turn it up...but when I/we helped seal with the gasket it kept heat inside more.


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## cmayna (Jan 26, 2021)

Here's my poor man's smoker skirt in action.  3 pieces of cardboard covering the sides and back of the lower section.  Used it yesterday only because I was cold smoking with one of my AMNPS trays and it was very windy.    Wanted to block some of the winds from nailing the pellet tray.

Oh and you will need to squint your eyes to see it, but the needle valve is up against the propane tank connector.

This smoker is actually used more now for cold smoking my Salmon and Albacore Lox as well as cheese during the cooler months.  

As far as a door gasket, I use automotive high temp gasket goop.  Ran a bead on the cabinet's door openings a few years ago.  Still livin' strong.


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## OldSmoke (Jan 26, 2021)

These are the parts I used:


Missing is a 1/4 x 3/8 reducer that I sourced locally. You also need yellow, not white teflon tape (gas). If you have a good hardware store or propane supplier, they should have everything in stock. At the time in the pandemic, I was ordering everything online. The picture gives you some idea of how I plumbed it together.







The needle valve is not high pressure or low pressure. the output of the regulator and the type of burner you have is, and yours is low pressure.


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## OldSmoke (Jan 26, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> I have read on this forum that the regulator on these units are low pressure, so search for the proper Needle valve on this forum.



I apologize, if you are going to use a regulator and needle valve combination, 

 chadnicoletti
 is correct, use the low pressure version. I mounted mine on the smoker. Putting it on the tank is the easier way to go.


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## FatCat55 (Feb 20, 2021)

I'm a long time smoker, but just got a Masterbuilt 30" propane smoker. While seasoning it, it seemed to reach high temps, but within the hour seasoning, I could never get it below 330. After reading this forum, I realized that I should change my regulator to one with a needle valve (?) inline.

I set the smoker to lowest, the valve to almost off and the cylinder about  1/4 on. I'm using a 10" cast iron skillet.

The only thing I didn't do was adding a gasket to the doors.  Any suggestions?


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## OldSmoke (Feb 21, 2021)

Welcome!

I feel that a needle valve is a must with these, especially if you want to smoke salmon or jerky at low temps. When you look for a reg and needle valve combo, look for the low pressure variety. Otherwise your smoker cabinet will be performing a SpaceX Starship imitation.

Installing a door gasket should also be high on the list of projects. It is important to be able to control the air going in and out of the cabinet rather than just uncontrolled leaking. The gasket can be found at good BBQ stores or Amazon. Hint: put the gasket on the door rather than the cabinet. It will stay cleaner as you move dripping meat in and out.







By adding the gasket, you have cut the air entering the cabinet. I added an extra vent in the upper cabinet (mine is split) and sometimes crack the lower door when I need more air (like when smoking jerky).







I have also decided that the next best thing is an external smoke generator like a mailbox or Smoke Daddy or similar. Burning the wood in the cabinet adds temperature that is uneven and difficult to control. And it changes depending on the type of wood you use. I built one that uses a smoking tube and pellets and works really  well. It really shines when smoking cheese. No heat added to the cabinet at all.

I kind of look at the the small cabinets as a start that requires some fun projects to get right. I am very happy with mine now. Being vertical, it requires very little space which is important to Mrs. Smoke.

Have fun!


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 21, 2021)

Hi old smoke, i just got my Masterbuilt 230S adventure series for xmas gift to me. First smoker for me. Looked up and did some mods on it. Gaskets, drilled in gasket nuts on side to have places for my 4 probes so very little air leaks. Cast frying pan. To stop the wind problem i built a shack....i know extreme but thats what i do. Picked up longer gas line and 100lb adapter for large tank, so back up tank 30lb + 100lb
I have been wanting to get the right needle valve  so thank you for this post , started by" chadnicoletti " thanks for the path to buy on amazon
David


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## OldSmoke (Feb 21, 2021)

DRKsmoking
 that is a really nice little shed. No beer cooler?


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 22, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> DRKsmoking
> that is a really nice little shed. No beer cooler?


OldSmoke
Thanks for the like and about the shed. Now for the cooler, i have a fridge that is in the shop right next to shed . That is where the shed is plugged into. And it just happens to fit under the chopping block counter where the stool is now. Not the reason for the height, just lucky planning :)
David


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## OldSmoke (Feb 22, 2021)

A fine example of advanced planning!

What is the pulley system?


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 22, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> A fine example of advanced planning!
> 
> What is the pulley system?


Thats the front cloths line that we never use , except to feed the wood peckers suet, you can just see the 3 little cage holders. It was there when we bought the house
But i should have said that is how "lovey" sends me my drinks when i run low
David


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 22, 2021)

Hi Chadnicoletti for the likes and also for starting this thread , as it gave me the info i needed for the needle valve

David


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## chadnicoletti (Feb 22, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Hi Chadnicoletti for the likes and also for starting this thread , as it gave me the info i needed for the needle valve
> 
> David


Hey DRKsmoking, I honestly can't take any credit for these mods, less the welded skirts. This forum is a wealth of information, and seriously awesome. I've been a tinkerer for a long time, and can't leave anything stock. Thankfully with a little elbow grease and some time, one can take a pretty poorly designed smoker for a great price and make a damn good smoker out of it! I have yet to try the tube deal that most on this forum speak of. I will get to that this summer.

Thanks!


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## OldSmoke (Feb 23, 2021)

The tube seems to be a good match for these smokers. I had difficulty using a pan. The harder woods like hickory had trouble staying lit at lower temps. I had trouble with a tray as well. Also check out an external smoke generator or mailbox. It really helps you get smoke and temperature  consistency.


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 24, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> The tube seems to be a good match for these smokers. I had difficulty using a pan. The harder woods like hickory had trouble staying lit at lower temps. I had trouble with a tray as well. Also check out an external smoke generator or mailbox. It really helps you get smoke and temperature  consistency.


Hi OldSmoke, thanks for the like
Would you have a picture of your external smoke generator on your Masterbuilt. just so i can see . I do not seem to have a problem with my wood chunks staying lit ....so far but have only done a few smokes so fat, thanks
David


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## OldSmoke (Feb 24, 2021)

It is my own invention. It is what happens when it is cold and rainy outside and the garage is warm.


























I use an air pump through a venturi to move the smoke. I can control the amount of smoke by adjusting the door and a valve on the compressed air. I’m getting consistent, clean smoke with zero temperature rise in the cabinet. I have two smoking tubes so it is easy and quick to reload on long smokes. It is one of those hair-brained ideas that actually works. I’m very happy with it.


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 24, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> It is my own invention. It is what happens when it is cold and rainy outside and the garage is warm.
> 
> View attachment 486651
> 
> ...



WOW
that is very cool, fantastic work. And it does not raise the inside temp in the smoker?
 That is one of the best mods to the Masterbuilt i have seen yet.
My hat is off to you sir. If it was made out of wood i could probably make it....LOL

David


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 24, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> These are the parts I used:
> 
> 
> Missing is a 1/4 x 3/8 reducer that I sourced locally. You also need yellow, not white teflon tape (gas). If you have a good hardware store or propane supplier, they should have everything in stock. At the time in the pandemic, I was ordering everything online. The picture gives you some idea of how I plumbed it together.
> ...


Hi OldSmoke
When you put all your needle valve parts together do you use any tape at all. I was using the pink teflon tape to put the adapter on my 100lb tank and one of my neighbor said you dont need any tape or putty on any gas lines
am i wrong in doing so, thanks in advance
David


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## OldSmoke (Feb 24, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Hi OldSmoke
> When you put all your needle valve parts together do you use any tape at all. I was using the pink teflon tape to put the adapter on my 100lb tank and one of my neighbor said you dont need any tape or putty on any gas lines
> am i wrong in doing so, thanks in advance
> David



Yes, with tapered pipe threads, you need a sealant. Yellow Teflon tape is used for natural gas and propane. If you are using flared fittings, you don’t use sealant.


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 25, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> Yes, with tapered pipe threads, you need a sealant. Yellow Teflon tape is used for natural gas and propane. If you are using flared fittings, you don’t use sealant.


Thank you. OldSmoke. 
David


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## OldSmoke (Feb 26, 2021)

After you have it assembled, spray some 409 or simple green on the joints to test for leaks. If you see any little bubbles, you have a leak.


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 26, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> After you have it assembled, spray some 409 or simple green on the joints to test for leaks. If you see any little bubbles, you have a leak.





OldSmoke said:


> After you have it assembled, spray some 409 or simple green on the joints to test for leaks. If you see any little bubbles, you have a leak.


Thank you, i normally always use soapy water spray on all my connections . did this for years in restaurants.
When i first started in the restaurants i was showed to use a bic lighter to test the line and connections. I would love to meet that person that showed us that F**#ing fool.
And i was stupid enough to do what i was told. Many years ago, its a wonder i made it this far.
David


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## chadnicoletti (Feb 28, 2021)

Hey guys, I wanted to make an update. I know this is not specifically related to mods for our Masterbuilt smokers, but I think it's good info. I bought a smoke tube off of Amazon last week and gave it a try yesterday when I smoked a 4lb pork shoulder.  Prior to using this tube I used an 8" cast iron which sat on the burner, with 2-3 large wood chunks for smoke. I used the stock water pan lined with aluminum foil full with water, meat placed on rack 2nd from the top, and smoker temp thermometer on same rack.  I used this method for 2 years, and although it requires a ton of fiddling with needle valve and babysitting the smoker, i maintained temps from 215-235 for hours at a time. Yesterday I used the cast iron on the burner but with no chunks in it. I figured cast iron is very good for heat retention, and will allow consistent temps. I filled water pan and warmed her up to 225. Once at 225, I followed the instructions from the tube and filled it with pellets and lit vertically, and let burn for 10 minutes. I then placed it in the smoker as well as the meat. For the first 2.5 hours I had very consistent temp of 220-235, but at the 2.5 hr mark my water had completely boiled away. Instead of replacing it I mistakingly removed it based on thinking I'd be able to let er roll without having to add water every 2.5 hrs. Big mistake, lol. I had a hell of a time keeping the temp consistent, and from hour 4 on had to fiddle with it until 9.5 hrs when I took it off.  This is all unrelated to the tube, which did perform well and lasted about 4 hrs . The key is to let it burn for the 10 minutes before laying it flat. I didn't do this the second fill, and it didn't smoke well. So, I am a believer in the tube, but would like to know the setups of  you guys who use the tube with these smokers. Are you guys using cast iron still for radiant heat? I know I messed up removing water pan, but what other things are you doing to achieve consistent temp?

Thanks!


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 28, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> Hey guys, I wanted to make an update. I know this is not specifically related to mods for our Masterbuilt smokers, but I think it's good info. I bought a smoke tube off of Amazon last week and gave it a try yesterday when I smoked a 4lb pork shoulder.  Prior to using this tube I used an 8" cast iron which sat on the burner, with 2-3 large wood chunks for smoke. I used the stock water pan lined with aluminum foil full with water, meat placed on rack 2nd from the top, and smoker temp thermometer on same rack.  I used this method for 2 years, and although it requires a ton of fiddling with needle valve and babysitting the smoker, i maintained temps from 215-235 for hours at a time. Yesterday I used the cast iron on the burner but with no chunks in it. I figured cast iron is very good for heat retention, and will allow consistent temps. I filled water pan and warmed her up to 225. Once at 225, I followed the instructions from the tube and filled it with pellets and lit vertically, and let burn for 10 minutes. I then placed it in the smoker as well as the meat. For the first 2.5 hours I had very consistent temp of 220-235, but at the 2.5 hr mark my water had completely boiled away. Instead of replacing it I mistakingly removed it based on thinking I'd be able to let er roll without having to add water every 2.5 hrs. Big mistake, lol. I had a hell of a time keeping the temp consistent, and from hour 4 on had to fiddle with it until 9.5 hrs when I took it off.  This is all unrelated to the tube, which did perform well and lasted about 4 hrs . The key is to let it burn for the 10 minutes before laying it flat. I didn't do this the second fill, and it didn't smoke well. So, I am a believer in the tube, but would like to know the setups of  you guys who use the tube with these smokers. Are you guys using cast iron still for radiant heat? I know I messed up removing water pan, but what other things are you doing to achieve consistent temp?
> 
> Thanks!


Which tube did you buy off Amazon, that works for you in our smokers, the link in your post is just to amazon
thanks 
David


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## chadnicoletti (Feb 28, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Which tube did you buy off Amazon, that works for you in our smokers, the link in your post is just to amazon
> thanks
> David


Smoke Tube I bought


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 28, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> Smoke Tube I bought


thank you


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## OldSmoke (Feb 28, 2021)

I have the same tube and it works well. The best thing you can do is a mailbox setup. The tube generates over 20 degrees of heat that is variable and cannot be controlled. Put it outside of the cabinet and you will get better temperature consistency, and better smoke.


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## OldSmoke (Feb 28, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> When i first started in the restaurants i was showed to use a bic lighter to test the line and connections. I would love to meet that person that showed us that F**#ing fool.



Oh my.  After 35 years in the natural gas distribution industry, I can personally verify, this is not the best way to find a leak. Well, you will find the leak, but...


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## chadnicoletti (Feb 28, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> I have the same tube and it works well. The best thing you can do is a mailbox setup. The tube generates over 20 degrees of heat that is variable and cannot be controlled. Put it outside of the cabinet and you will get better consistency, and better smoke.




 OldSmoke
 Roger that. Looks like I have a new project for next weekend.  Are you using the stock water pan? Anything on the burner?


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## cmayna (Feb 28, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> Hey guys, I wanted to make an update. I know this is not specifically related to mods for our Masterbuilt smokers, but I think it's good info. I bought a smoke tube off of Amazon last week and gave it a try yesterday when I smoked a 4lb pork shoulder.  Prior to using this tube I used an 8" cast iron which sat on the burner, with 2-3 large wood chunks for smoke. I used the stock water pan lined with aluminum foil full with water, meat placed on rack 2nd from the top, and smoker temp thermometer on same rack.  I used this method for 2 years, and although it requires a ton of fiddling with needle valve and babysitting the smoker, i maintained temps from 215-235 for hours at a time. Yesterday I used the cast iron on the burner but with no chunks in it. I figured cast iron is very good for heat retention, and will allow consistent temps. I filled water pan and warmed her up to 225. Once at 225, I followed the instructions from the tube and filled it with pellets and lit vertically, and let burn for 10 minutes. I then placed it in the smoker as well as the meat. For the first 2.5 hours I had very consistent temp of 220-235, but at the 2.5 hr mark my water had completely boiled away. Instead of replacing it I mistakingly removed it based on thinking I'd be able to let er roll without having to add water every 2.5 hrs. Big mistake, lol. I had a hell of a time keeping the temp consistent, and from hour 4 on had to fiddle with it until 9.5 hrs when I took it off.  This is all unrelated to the tube, which did perform well and lasted about 4 hrs . The key is to let it burn for the 10 minutes before laying it flat. I didn't do this the second fill, and it didn't smoke well. So, I am a believer in the tube, but would like to know the setups of  you guys who use the tube with these smokers. Are you guys using cast iron still for radiant heat? I know I messed up removing water pan, but what other things are you doing to achieve consistent temp?
> 
> Thanks!



Where in the smoker did you place the tube?  The tube needs to be above the flame.


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## DRKsmoking (Feb 28, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> Oh my.  After 35 years in the natural gas distribution industry, I can personally verify, this is not the best way to find a leak. Well, you will find the leak, but...


I know what you mean, scares me to think what could have happened


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## OldSmoke (Mar 1, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> OldSmoke
> Roger that. Looks like I have a new project for next weekend.  Are you using the stock water pan? Anything on the burner?



I use the stock water pan. I filled my cast iron pan with sand and covered it with foil to act as a heat sink.


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## DRKsmoking (Mar 13, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Hi OldSmoke


 Hi Old smoke about the 3 parts to install on the smoker. Well i have all the parts put them together , No problem so far. Removed the propane line from the smoker 
and than about to hook up the 3" pipe to where the propane line was. Did you have to add something else as what i need on the end of my 3" pipe would have to be the same as my propane nut.
Sorry i hope this makes sense
Thanks in advance
David


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## omar1951 (Mar 14, 2021)

chadnicoletti said:


> Hello all,
> I've had this smoker for a little over a year now. Thanks to all of the various tips on modding the Masterbuilt propane units! First mod I did was the cast iron pan replacing the hardly useful chip tray the unit came with. I place the 8" cast iron directly on the burner ring, and have excellent results. Second mod I did was install a needle valve in line, which really helps to control temperature as well as keep it consistent.  I have smoked all kind of meats with this very budget friendly unit, with awesome results. Last time I smoked with it was Christmas Eve and being in NE Ohio, we had snow falling and pretty consistent winds. My unit has no good flame protection, and with the winds I had to go ignite the flame 10+ times throughout the 8 hr smoke.  To fix this today I welded on skirts using scrap sheet metal , which I really think will make a difference. I do find this unit to be very needy, and sort of wish I had an electric unit for consistency.
> 
> What other mods do you all suggest to make this unit the absolute most consistent?


I wonder if you could show a pic of the cast iron tray and how you install it. You say you put it right over the fire ring. Does that mean you remove the diffuser?


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## DRKsmoking (Mar 14, 2021)

omar1951 said:


> I wonder if you could show a pic of the cast iron tray and how you install it. You say you put it right over the fire ring. Does that mean you remove the diffuser?


I think chad does what me and others are doing , cast iron frying pan right on the ring over the flames. Chad should get back to you to say what he does for sure

David


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## OldSmoke (Mar 27, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Did you have to add something else as what i need on the end of my 3" pipe would have to be the same as my propane nut



I am very sorry for being late to respond. Does this help?


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## DRKsmoking (Mar 27, 2021)

OldSmoke said:


> I am very sorry for being late to respond. Does this help?


Never a problem about that. I did find a coupling and a female end at a propane supply shop here in Metro. I chanced the 3" to a 2" so everything still fit under the smoker. I just did not know what you had the 3" screwed into as mine needed a female end to connect to the smoker. The needle valve works great . Much easier to adjust the temps now. Thanks,
David






I also added heat shields to the Smoker Shack, don't really need them until I do. Hopefully I never do






Thanks for the help
David


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## OldSmoke (Mar 27, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Never a problem about that. I did find a coupling and a female end at a propane supply shop here in Metro. I chanced the 3" to a 2" so everything still fit under the smoker. I just did not know what you had the 3" screwed into as mine needed a female end to connect to the smoker. The needle valve works great . Much easier to adjust the temps now. Thanks,
> David
> 
> View attachment 490848
> ...


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## OldSmoke (Mar 27, 2021)

Looks like you did a nice job. I bet you like like that needle valve.


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## DRKsmoking (Mar 27, 2021)

Yes the needle valve makes it much easier to regulate the temp now. I am not running back and forth to the shack to adjust
David
ps: just noticed your other post about your hobbies very nice bike build


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## maevansvh (Apr 2, 2021)

Might be a dumb question... but for those that use a cast iron skillet for the wood burning tray (instead of the OEM one), do you use 8Inch? 10inch?  Will the skillets handle fit?


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## DRKsmoking (Apr 2, 2021)

I will check what size i use , but i cut about 2" off of my handle so it sits in the center.
David
 Sorry , also welcome to the group


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## DRKsmoking (Apr 2, 2021)

maevansvh said:


> do you use 8Inch? 10inch? Will the skillets handle fit?


Hi maevansvh, first off never dumb questions,   I just checked  and mine is 10" and like I said I removed about 2" off the handle so i could still pick up with gloves on and put in or out as needed easier while hot. It sets in/on the original ring pan










Hope this helps
David


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## omar1951 (Apr 12, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> I think chad does what me and others are doing , cast iron frying pan right on the ring over the flames. Chad should get back to you to say what he does for sure
> 
> David


Working on sheet metal covers for the bottom of the smoker to prevent the wind from extinguishing the burner. Will probably cut some sheet metal to suit and attach with piano hinge. More on that later. Curious as to the needle valve installation. Seems as though the rigs pictured don't have a temp-specific range . Mine does, and it's pretty accurate from what I can see by placing a thermometer in the rig and setting the temp with the big dial out front, so I'm gonna pass on that part of the mod. Here are some pics and what my intentions are.














Bought the 8" frypan. Fits perfect in the stock smoke pan cradle. 2nd pic shows the arrows pointing to the heat diffuser. Wondering if I should remove that. If I do, I will be able to lower the frypan by cutting into the channels that are pointed to in the 3rd pic. Do I need to worry about heat distribution in the smoker if I remove the diffuser? Do I actually need to in order to get good enough heat on the frypan to ignite the wood chunks and keep them burning while smoking? Any thoughts on the subject greatly appreciated!!!


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## omar1951 (Apr 12, 2021)

I posted pics and descriptions, but they are awaiting moderator approval. I'll return later to see if it posted.


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## maevansvh (Apr 12, 2021)

Thanks for the replies.  Now that the forum is back online :-).   I purchased an 8 inch pan and hope to use it this weekend.


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## DRKsmoking (Apr 12, 2021)

omar1951 said:


> 2nd pic shows the arrows pointing to the heat diffuser. Wondering if I should remove that. If I do, I will be able to lower the frypan


Hi Omar, I am not sure about your smoker. Have you tried to use the frying pan now with where it sits. I would try that first if you have not. Just to see how your wood chunks smoke, you don't want to get them too close that they burn up instead of just smolder. With my frying pan on the ring that came with my smoker it is a good height, but if i have the heat up high when doing something that needs high temp even my chunks will catch fire. So i try to have the smoking finished before i raise the temp.

  As for the needle valve , I installed on mine because the dial that is on the smoker is hard to adjust real accurate, but now i can almost keep it right to the exact Deg. i want I have much better control now.

Hope this helps a little
David


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## DRKsmoking (Apr 12, 2021)

maevansvh said:


> Thanks for the replies.  Now that the forum is back online :-).   I purchased an 8 inch pan and hope to use it this weekend.


That's good , did you have to cut the handle or does it fit good for you, let us know how it went ,when you use it

David


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## omar1951 (Apr 13, 2021)

DRKsmoking said:


> Hi Omar, I am not sure about your smoker. Have you tried to use the frying pan now with where it sits. I would try that first if you have not. Just to see how your wood chunks smoke, you don't want to get them too close that they burn up instead of just smolder. With my frying pan on the ring that came with my smoker it is a good height, but if i have the heat up high when doing something that needs high temp even my chunks will catch fire. So i try to have the smoking finished before i raise the temp.
> 
> As for the needle valve , I installed on mine because the dial that is on the smoker is hard to adjust real accurate, but now i can almost keep it right to the exact Deg. i want I have much better control now.
> 
> ...


A great help. I'll give it a whirl soon and report on my findings.


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## OldSmoke (Apr 15, 2021)

I found a square cast iron pan on Amazon that fits perfectly. Except, I switched to a tube smoker. I found that I had a hard time keeping the wood smoking at lower temps for salmon and cheese. Additionally, the chunks don’t burn consistently, causing your temps to fluctuate. I filled my pan with sand and moved the tube outside the cabinet. Things are more stable now.


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## omar1951 (Apr 16, 2021)

Here's the wind blockers. Came out way better than I expected! Think I'll make a cover for the frypan to prohibit the wood chunks from catching fire at high heat. I think I'll wanna start off on high to get the chunks lit, then turn the heat down to the smoking temp i need depending on the goods I put in to smoke. Thanks to all for your pics and advice. C'mon summer!!!!!


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## omar1951 (Apr 17, 2021)

omar1951 said:


> View attachment 492946
> View attachment 492947
> 
> Here's the wind blockers. Came out way better than I expected! Think I'll make a cover for the frypan to prohibit the wood chunks from catching fire at high heat. I think I'll wanna start off on high to get the chunks lit, then turn the heat down to the smoking temp i need depending on the goods I put in to smoke. Thanks to all for your pics and advice. C'mon summer!!!!!




















Here's what I came up with for a top to the frypan/wood chunk holder. I used the tray that came with the rig, just flipped it upside down and attached it with a store-bought hinge, and one of my own design. The round piece is aluminum bar stock, split lengthwise with a hole thru it to wrap around the crossbar, held on with 2 hose clamps. Used the pan because it's taller, can get some bigger chunks in the pan. Plus I can adjust the pan to either close the top completely (pic 3), or turn the pan a bit so that I can set the propping-open tab on the pour spout of the frypan.


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## boomerpusher (Apr 28, 2021)

A newbie question:  With the smoke tube inside the smoker, what happens to the ash from the pellets?  What about using 1/8" hardware cloth to make a smoke tube?  Not cheap but I have the hardware cloth on hand and could roll my own.

Question for Omar1951, That looks like your wife's pie pan?  How has it worked for you and do you get enough smoke wihout extra holes for air?


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## omar1951 (Apr 28, 2021)

boomerpusher said:


> A newbie question:  With the smoke tube inside the smoker, what happens to the ash from the pellets?  What about using 1/8" hardware cloth to make a smoke tube?  Not cheap but I have the hardware cloth on hand and could roll my own.
> 
> Question for Omar1951, That looks like your wife's pie pan?  How has it worked for you and do you get enough smoke wihout extra holes for air?


Haven't tried it yet. Like I mentioned, the top is actually the bottom of the original chip/chunk pan. And if you notice, I can prop the top open a bit if I find I'm not getting enough air to keep the chips/chunks lit. If they do go out, even with the top propped open, I'll put some holes in the top to allow for more air.


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## OldSmoke (Apr 28, 2021)

boomerpusher said:


> A newbie question:  With the smoke tube inside the smoker, what happens to the ash from the pellets?  What about using 1/8" hardware cloth to make a smoke tube?  Not cheap but I have the hardware cloth on hand and could roll my own.



The ash stays in the tube, until you move it…

They are pretty inexpensive on Amazon or your local BBQ shop. Not worth building one. I have two for long smokes. One burning, one loaded and ready.


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## larry-B (May 25, 2021)

omar1951 said:


> View attachment 492946
> View attachment 492947
> 
> Here's the wind blockers. Came out way better than I expected! Think I'll make a cover for the frypan to prohibit the wood chunks from catching fire at high heat. I think I'll wanna start off on high to get the chunks lit, then turn the heat down to the smoking temp i need depending on the goods I put in to smoke. Thanks to all for your pics and advice. C'mon summer!!!!!


I have an 8" :Lodge CI pan which fits perfectly in the ring that held the chip pan.  I use the cover from the chip pan on top of the CI skillet.  I also use chips and chunks in the skillet.  This works out very well on longer low temp <250* cooks.  The chips start producing smoke first and by the time they are finished  the chunks kick in.


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## DRKsmoking (Jun 29, 2021)

Thank you 

 HoughtonLakeSmoker
 for the like

David


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## chadnicoletti (Jun 30, 2021)

All,

I put the cast iron right on top of the burner.

Thank you


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## Octaviousmonk (Nov 24, 2022)

OldSmoke said:


> I am very sorry for being late to respond. Does this help?
> 
> View attachment 490785





OldSmoke said:


> I am very sorry for being late to respond. Does this help?
> 
> View attachment 490785


Any chance you could give me a parts list to setup a needle valve like this to save me some time? Thanks


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## OldSmoke (Nov 27, 2022)

The easiest way is to mount a needle valve at the tank. You might find a pre-made assembly with some searching. You want a LOW PRESSURE assembly, not high pressure! 

For DIY, this is just to give you an idea, and you need to make sure the parts will fit your smoker and are the correct size. If you have a good propane dealer, they should have all the fittings or a pre-made assembly. They can probably build it for you. 

You will also need yellow teflon tape or other sealant for the fittings. After putting it together, turn on the propane and use 409 or other spray cleaner on the threads to check for bubbles that indicate you have a leak. If you have not done this kind of work, I can't recommend it. Propane is very dangerous.

The basics:

A regulator. A two-stage will give you consistent output as the tank pressure varies. This one also uses threads to attach a hose so you can insert the needle valve at the tank:



			https://www.amazon.com/Flame-King-Horizontal-Generators-G2R150B-POLa/dp/B09437RMYS/ref=pd_day0fbt_sccl_1/143-0217637-7108628?pd_rd_w=A0MaZ&content-id=amzn1.sym.225af909-a644-4665-9f15-c780ebd0c7cb&pf_rd_p=225af909-a644-4665-9f15-c780ebd0c7cb&pf_rd_r=4D9BT6WAMZVKFB55V979&pd_rd_wg=CW50V&pd_rd_r=88935312-4984-40f5-a551-874262d7cb6a&pd_rd_i=B09437RMYS&psc=1
		


A needle valve:



			https://www.amazon.com/HongBoW-Instrument-Needle-Handle-Female/dp/B08G4H9L8R/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1WU0U5LNSKTO3&keywords=needle+valve+with+3%2F8+Female+npt&qid=1669579091&sprefix=needle+valve+with+3%2F8+female+npt%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE4VUREWDVESzJMWE0mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2ODE3NzQySzNGOVdXNDkyUlZLJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTg0MjEzQlJaWEhQUzM5UkdYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
		


A hose to go between the valve and the smoker. The smoker may already have a 3/8" flare for the original hose:



			https://www.amazon.com/DOZYANT-Feet-Propane-Flexible-Assembly/dp/B075WF6VRG/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3R3W1YJEDF86Z&keywords=propane+hose&qid=1669579311&sprefix=propane+hose%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-16
		


You will also need a brass 3/8" nipple, and probably a brass 3/8" FNPT to 3/8" flare adapter to attach the hose to the reg.

I hope this helps!


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## Octaviousmonk (Nov 27, 2022)

OldSmoke said:


> The easiest way is to mount a needle valve at the tank. You might find a pre-made assembly with some searching. You want a LOW PRESSURE assembly, not high pressure!
> 
> For DIY, this is just to give you an idea, and you need to make sure the parts will fit your smoker and are the correct size. If you have a good propane dealer, they should have all the fittings or a pre-made assembly. They can probably build it for you.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply. I actually converted mine to run on natural gas, so I get to skip the regulator etc. I am going to copy your set up and put the needle valve right below the factory valve. I dismantled mine and figured out the one part I was unsure of. The reducer needed to attach to my valve is 1/8” so I found a 1/8”-3/8” reducer online because in store options didn’t go smaller than 1/4”. I’ll post up pictures when I’m done. Thanks again.


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## Octaviousmonk (Dec 2, 2022)

Needle valve install complete and leak tested. I’m very happy with the fine tuning capabilities of it. Parts list: 1/8 MIP to 3/8 FIP reducer, 2 inch nipple, needle valve, 90 degree 3/8 mip to 3/8 flare.


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## OldSmoke (Dec 5, 2022)

Looks great. It’s the best mod you can make for these smokers. Which in turn leads to more mods…


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