# Insulating the Landman 38" wide



## lamar (Nov 1, 2013)

Decided to insulate my Landman 38" wide body  and get ready for Maine winters.

  Picked up a sheet of Fiberduct board at a refrigeration supply and a roll of aluminum tape.  The ductboard is rated R 4.3.  It is compressed fiberglass with an aluminum face.  Cuts easy with a knife.

Taping the lower vent opening.













ins1.jpg



__ lamar
__ Nov 1, 2013






One side and back













ins 2.jpg



__ lamar
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Side view showing vent cutout













ins 3.jpg



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Rack for thermometers













Thermometers.jpg



__ lamar
__ Nov 1, 2013






Rack for thermometers

The job took about four hours and materials cost 55 bucks.  I fired it up at the 225 setting I used last and it gained 30+ degrees!   I only insulated the sides,  back, and top.  May do the door sometime,  but right now,  it don't need it.  Very satisfied with the mod.  Gas savings alone should pay for it in a few months.

Ready for cold weather smoking.


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## backyardboss (Nov 12, 2013)

That looks pretty great!

Mainly interested in that thermometer rack, how'd you do that? Is the rack something you made yourself or a modified something from the store? How did you mount that?

I'm in central Va. and while it gets plenty cold from time to time, I'm not sure it's insulation worthy cold. Even when it drops it can often be for only a few days.


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## lamar (Nov 12, 2013)

The thermometer rack is simply a sheet  of steel attached to a small angle iron with bolts.  It is then bolted into the sides of the smoker through the insulation.  I used a steel sheet so the thermometers magnets would work.


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## backyardboss (Nov 13, 2013)

Very nice mod. I had forgotten about the magnets on the Therms, good thinking!

Thanks for the response.


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## bamofnh (Dec 24, 2013)

Great job and your Craftsmanship is superb.


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## lamar (May 12, 2014)

After using this mod a few months now,  I am very  pleased with it.  I have used it at temps from 10F to 65F  and never have to change the needle valve setting to maintain 230F.  I put one chunk of hickory in the pan and it usually lasts 4-5 hours. 

Works for me.


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## humdinger (Dec 9, 2014)

Looks like a smoker fit for the international space station now! 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





  Nice job. I may do this to the back and sides of mine. thanks.


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## lamar (Dec 9, 2014)

Thanks humdinger.......I appreciate that comment.


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## kfons (Aug 10, 2015)

Is there any issue with that insulation if the smoker is outdoors and semi exposed to the elements (rain & snow)?  Mine is on my deck and has a caver but I still get some moisture inside at times.


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## lamar (Aug 10, 2015)

Mine is in a open porch and is not in the rain at all.  The insulation is foil backed and seams sealed with aluminum tape so none of the actual insulation  is exposed.

Lamar


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## stjoeguy1122 (Oct 19, 2016)

I'm not sure how the the landman compares to a Masterbuilt, but I noticed you also put some skirting on your legs. Did you notice any change in the updraft through the burner?


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## lamar (Oct 19, 2016)

I did not see any change in the burner with the addition of  the skirt.  I only put them  on the sides and back.  I left the front  of the base open.


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## CDBsmoker (Dec 7, 2019)

Very helpful and thanks for posting. 
I have a small DynaGlo propane double door and will do the same. 

I found this below at Zoro.com cheap and rated to 1,200F:
1" x 48" x 24" Mineral Wool/Foil Backing High Temperature Insulation

I’ll likely insulate the doors also. Thin the insulation board a little, apply it to the Inside of the doors.  Then use small (countersunk?) pop rivets to attach a sheet metal panel over the insulation (sealed with high temp sealant).


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## lamar (Dec 7, 2019)

this mod has been working six years now and no problems.  I can smoke at zero degrees as easily as 60.   I really like this smoker.

lamar


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## CDBsmoker (Dec 15, 2019)

I insulted my DynaGlo smoker, thanks to Lamar’s tip.

- 1” foil faced mineral wool insulation board for sides and backs. I taped the backside to protect it better from errant smoke, etc.
- Doors insulated with the same (no taping of back here) but with a galvanized sheet making a double wall. I didn’t end up riveting the sheet- I used 600F silicone to glue it in (the slightly compressed insulation behind keeps the panel pretty firmly in place).  Easy. I’ll likely drill a small drain hole in case any moisture gets between the walls. 
-Roof edging attached around the outside perimeter to hold the board tight to the smoker
-Added a silicone grommet to feed probes for my Bluetooth thermometer through the side.
-Sealed the drippings deflector inside where it is spot welded to the sides and back. This 2” angled piece guides the grease from the sides into the drip/water pans. Gaps between it and the sides allowed grease to run down the sides and onto the ground.
-Added door gaskets

Results: Excellent!  For a 250F smoke on a 30F day, I went from almost all the way high, to almost all the way low. (And I still need to insulate and gasket the bottom door).
Now, I’ll need to research how to best throttle down the heat when summer comes as low won’t  be low enough for hot weather.

Now, a modestly priced thermostatic control and I’d really be set. Currently, it holds temperature pretty well,  but getting that to that setting takes a little fine tuning. And, as the day warms up 30F + degrees....


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## lamar (Dec 15, 2019)

that looks good CBD.
Controlling the temps in warmer weather is as simple as adding a needle valve in the supply line.  I turn the gas on with the smoker knob set on high,  set the flame with the needle valve and it stays amazingly stable once up to temp.  Very seldom have to change the needle valve due to outside temperature.  Enjoy your handywork.

Lamar


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## olecrosseyes (Dec 15, 2019)

I just curious of you using a galvanized sheet on the interior of the wall? Won't the galvanizing give off a bad gas?


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## CDBsmoker (Dec 15, 2019)

_"I just curious of you using a galvanized sheet on the interior of the wall? Won't the galvanizing give off a bad gas?" _

That's a great point and why  I didn't do the lower door (by the burner and wood box). 
The Continuous rating seems well above my max temps.  I'm looking for an ungalvanized piece for the lower door, and will likely replace the top, just for piece of mind.

_In long-term, continuous exposure, the recommended maximum temperature for hot-dip galvanized steel is 392 F (200 C), _


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## CDBsmoker (Dec 19, 2019)

Needle valve- OK, I just bought the Bayou Classics Needle Valve (valve only).  It has M&F NPT connections.
But, I see that  my gas hose is Crimped at both the regulator and burner end.  It appears to be one integrated unit from burner to propane tank attachment.

How have others with a crimped hose attached the needle valve?
Barbed fittings are not_ idiot proof, _so you would never see them OEM.  But, at 1/2psi on the hose vs 150psi working pressure on an air hose, are they really unsafe (practically speaking) for someone with some technical skills?
Searching, I found some talk of crimping, but we are pretty light on businesses here- not sure that we have access to that.


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## lamar (Dec 19, 2019)

I used barbed fittings and hose clamps on mine.   At that low pressure,  it will not be a problem.

Lamar


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## CDBsmoker (Dec 27, 2019)

Dampers-  I’ve done a few smokes, and going well. Beats any of the BBQ (sic) available locally here.
But, one thing I’m not very clear on are the Lower dampers. I’ve been leaving the top smokestack wide open for airflow (it’s not that large anyway). I understand the function of lower dampers for sick and charcoal burners- that’s pretty clear.

But, with propane, the whole bottom is already pretty well open (vented). The attached picture shows the two Adjustable bottom dampers, about level with the wood smoke box (water pan is above, burner below ). It doesn’t show all the open area on the bottom, however.

Any thoughts?    I couldn’t find much good info for us lowly propane burners.......


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## olecrosseyes (Dec 27, 2019)

I run a propane unit, I use the lower 2 dampers to fine tune the temps +/-


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## lamar (Dec 28, 2019)

I never move my lower dampers.  They were wide open the first time I ever used the GOSM and have remained open all these years.  Temperature is regulated by a needle valve as I stated before. 

Lamar


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## CDBsmoker (Dec 28, 2019)

olecrosseyes said:


> I run a propane unit, I use the lower 2 dampers to fine tune the temps +/-


With stick burners, that makes sense as you can't turn a knob to dial the flame down.  I just installed a needle valve, so can hopefully fine tune temps with that (the burner knob doesn't fine tune well).  I also have a cast iron skillet I leave on the top rack as a heat sink (and to put the beans on later on in the smoke).

Also, I'm still not clear how the side dampers interact with the wood chip box to produce "optimal" smoke (given all the large openings on the bottom of the smoker).  And, the proper quantities of chips and chunks (I cut my own wood). And, if I should turn the chip box lid sideways (or remove to start) to get more airflow to start (to get the TBS smoke going sooner).

And, if I need the side dampers open for "optimal" convection airflow through the cabinet.
It's a great (and fun) challenge trying for better and better BBQ.


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## CDBsmoker (Apr 21, 2020)

Update, I’ve been smoking away the last 4 months on the Dynaglow that I insulated (see prior post).  I’ve likely done 30 smokes. Everything is holding up great.

I did also add a cast iron pan for the smoke wood container (it came with a light sheet metal tray).  The handles were the perfect spacing to set on a couple of bricks cut in half. I had to move the wood tray closer to the burner as I run much less flame vs uninsulated. I wasn’t getting enough smoke with the heavier cast iron pan set on the higher factory location.

Im very happy with the smoker.  Although, next time I’d get a larger size.


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## BEFE (Feb 6, 2021)

Ive had my Landmann 38" for a few years now. From the midwest and winters can be brutal so I insulated during the first summer. I took it a step further and wrapped it in wood. Ive always wanted to post pics but never got to it til tonight while getting ready for a smoke tommorow, -10 and this thing wont flinch at holding 225 all day and night. I need to drill a hole for my probes but Im a lazy smoker and haven't done it lol. I also added latches to the side of the door. Love this thing picked it up on swap for 50$ in basically new shape.


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## lamar (Feb 7, 2021)

Now that's an interesting approach.  temps won't get hot enough to burn the wood.  Good thinking and it looks good too.
Mine has been chugging along 8 years now and insulation is as good as when first installed.
Welcome to this fine forum.


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## BEFE (Feb 7, 2021)

That pic above is from the first year after a few smokes. It now has a nice patina smoke stain on the wood. I also added the wind blocks around 3 sides of the legs which helps as it gets windy here in SD. -3 today and can open and close the chamber door with no worries of this thing catching back up to temps without cranking the gas. But....if your looking it aint cookin, so that only gets opened when needed. They built these things right with the separate wood and water doors. Bottom rack will get eggplant finger food 30 minutes before I pull everything.


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## lamar (Feb 7, 2021)

I especially like the separate wood and water trays.  I  line the water tray with foil and use it or a large drip pan.   2 or 3 chunks of wood lasts a long time.


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## BEFE (Feb 8, 2021)

Yep the tin foil makes cleaning up the water tray a breeze too.


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## lamar (Feb 9, 2021)

the only thing this smoker needed was a needle valve.  once I  added it,  temp stability was unreal.
the factory valve did not give fine   control on the flame. 
 I have used it at 5f  temps.


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## BEFE (Feb 9, 2021)

Yea the needle valve is on the list too. There a good write up to add that in? You have pics of yours? Is it as simple as just splicing in a needle valve with some hose clamps?


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## lamar (Feb 10, 2021)

it is actually that  simple.  the regulator puts out less  than 1 psi  so a clamp on a barbed  valve works very well.  I leave the control on the smoker full open and regulate the flame with the needle valve  only.


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