# I did it!  I built my curing chamber! (Massive amounts of Build-View)



## xutfuzzy

Bacon got me hooked, corned beef and pastrami sealed the deal.  Next, I wanted to get into long-term cured meats, which would require a lot more work and a curing chamber.  After ample research, I finally bit the bullet and just dove right in.  Here is how I did it:

The first step was to acquire a fridge.  I scoured Craigslist for months.  What I really wanted to avoid was having to "cut out" the freezer portion, so I refined my searches to things like "full sized fridge" or "all refrigerator" or things of that nature.  I finally found a couple, and this one was closest to my budget.  I really only wanted to spend $150 or less, but when I saw this guy I knew I would be willing to go up to $200.  The glass door was the clincher.













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__ xutfuzzy
__ Jan 27, 2013






It would need some (read: a LOT, it had been in some guy's garage for a number of years, unused) of cleaning up but I wanted it.

There were three things that I wanted to control:

(1) temperature - most curing would be done around 55 degrees, so I needed to bypass the fridge's thermostat

(2) humidity - fridges are notoriously dry, so that would need to be amped up

(3) air flow - from what I read while doing research, you want SOME airflow

Let's begin with air flow.  For about $15, I purchased a computer cooling fan.  Wanting to keep in air while the fan was off, I also purchased a dryer vent with flaps because it was about the same size.













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I used some old scrap lumber from a previous project.  It happened to be walnut, but cheap wood is just as nice.  I started by framing the dryer vent.  This would be on the outside of the fridge as my exhaust.













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See?  It secures right on!













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The cooling fan had screws in odd places and didn't exactly match up with the back of the dryer vent.  I built myself a spacer using 1/4" plywood and a bandsaw (my jigsaw recently broke).













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There, much better.  Now air wouldn't leak out the sides.













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Here's the same thing, but from a different angle.













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Next I mounted the fan to my exhaust port.













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Then I framed it out so that airflow wouldn't be so bad.  Looking back, I might have been able to just place this inside the side of the fridge, but hey, I've never done this before.   I was smart enough, however, to predrill a hole for the wiring.













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__ xutfuzzy
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The problem with the computer fan is that it runs on 12 volts.  If I wired it straight to a 110v outlet, some interesting things might have happened.  I needed to step down the voltage.  Luckily, I had never thrown away my really old cell phone charger that was about a decade old.  It just so happened to have a 12v output!













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I snipped the end, wired them together and plugged it it.  If you look at the picture below, you can see the flaps blowing out!  It worked!













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While building this, I was simultaneously Cloroxing the heck out of the fridge. 













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During all this, by temperature controller arrived in the mail!













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I also went to Home Depot and picked up my humidifier.  I kept reading in my research how "sonic" humidifiers were the best for this situation, so I made sure it was one of those.













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The fridge came with a couple of racks, but I only used one at the very top.  This is where I would hang my treasures from.  In a couple of builds I came across, most were using L-irons and dowel rods, but I figured this would work just as well, and I would use S-hooks to hang from the rack.













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I installed a 2x4 between two joists in my basement.  I wanted the power strip off the floor and away from walls, as I live in a 100 year old house with a stone foundation that has random leaks.













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I glued the powerstrip to this using construction adhesive.













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Next, I wanted to build my intake vent and interior frames.  I framed them out using the same dimensions as my exhaust.













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Okay...it was time to do the part I was dreading...cutting the hole in the side of the fridge.  I was nervous about this.













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This would be easy with a reciprocating saw, but the question was, how do you get your blade in there in the first place?  I first tried using a hole saw bit.













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Let's just say that didn't work so great.  It dulled instantly.  I then tried using 3/8" drill bits to drill out the corners and get my blade in once the holes were big enough.  It was a pain, it ended up being super ugly (serious dents from my drill slipping can be seen in the top left of the hole) but hey, I finally got what I needed.  I wasn't too worried about neatness because I would be masking both sides with my frames.













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Here is the intake vent on the other side of the fridge.  I place it at the bottom from maximum air exchange.













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If you look closely, the exhaust is in the top left and the intake is on the bottom right. When the fan kicked on, the old air would be taken out the top left and new air would come in on the bottom right for better air flow and changing of air in the chamber.













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I didn't want the air on the WHOLE time, so I hooked it up to an automatic timer.  I would set it to run for 15 minutes once a day, every day.  The fan's specs said that it would move 85 cubic feet per minute, so the 15 minutes seemed MORE than appropriate. 













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To help keep the exhaust fan in place, I screwed on a strip of wood that would help support the weight.













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Attached and glued using the construction adhesive.













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Same thing, from another angle.  The awful-looking hole I cut is now hidden on the outside.













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I stapled a piece of window screen to the frame to keep creatures from traveling through, and screwed this frame to the inside of the exhaust port.  Now the terrible-looking hole looked much classier and would keep "guests" from visiting my treasures.













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I had to do the same thing for the intake port, with the exception that it would not have a fan.  The frame would have window screen and a dryer vent.













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Ready to go!













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I used 2.5" screws that both held the dryer vent to the frame and the frame to the interior wall.













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Installed and ready. 













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On the exterior side of the intake, I wanted to use an air filter to prevent the bad things in basement air from getting in.













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I made sure that it was rated for molds.













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For the exterior frame, I needed to build a pocket for the air filter.













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I cut the air filter to size.













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The frame was attached and ready for the filter.













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If I wanted, I could have built a fancy hinged cap, but I wasn't feeling up to it.  Perhaps later.













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I plugged it in to test out the air flow.  I grabbed a sheet of paper and placed it against the interior wall of the exhaust port.  The air flow was strong enough to hold the piece of paper on its own!













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Although it's not too noticeable, the flaps on the intake side on lower right of the fridge were sticking out, indicating that air was moving into the chamber when the exhaust fan was on.  It worked!  The picture was taken through the glass door, so in the sealed environment my plan had actually come together!  I was quite pleased, as this was probably the most difficult aspect of this whole thing.













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I drilled a hole for the hygrostat (humidity controller) and thermostat.













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The plug for the extension cord for the hygrostat wouldn't fit through the hole, so it would need to be snipped and have a replacement plug put on.













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Snipped and ready, but you can't put it on yet!













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First, feed it through the wall!













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Much better.













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Here is the temperature probe.













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This would need to be "dressed" later, I can't stand loose cords like this.













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I ran the temperature probe through the wire rack so that it would be suspended near the meat.













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Next, I wanted my hygrostat near the same place.  I figured I could built a ledge inside the fridge.  I measured the skinny part of the hourglass-shaped device.













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Here is my idea for the ledge.













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I would then cut a groove and slide the hygrostat in the groove to hold it in place.













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Done...now let's see if it worked.













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Perfect!  The control is still accessible, as well as the plug!













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Let's install it so that, like the temperature probe, it is near the the middle of the chamber.













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Looks good so far.













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Nice!













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Cords inside chamber were now made pretty.  Also, I placed in a second (backup) meter that measured both temperature and humidity.













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Now to deal with that hold I drilled...I didn't want air escaping.













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This really IS great stuff.













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No more unwanted airflow!













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Same thing, but from the inside.













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Wow...27% humidity in my basement...must be January in Cincinnati.













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I plugged in the hygrostat to compare it to the backup reader.  They were close, and since this picture was taken (last night) they are now only about 3% different.  The temperature (compare to the picture above) shows that the temperature probe is working perfectly.  The fridge cooled it down from 61 to 55 and then shut off!













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Here is the mess of cords and cables that I wanted away from walls and floors.













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All done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!













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I can't wait!

Parts:

(1) Fridge - $200 from Craigslist

(2) Temperature controller - $50 from Amazon 
(3) Hygrostat - $50 from Amazon 
(4) Humidifier - $40 - $50 (can't remember) Home Depot

(5) Junk laying around in basement that was free: scrap wood, scrap window screen, 12v DC converter

(6) Fan - $15 at Radioshack

(7) Dryer vents - $4 each at Home Depot

(8) Backup climate reader - $10 - $15 at Home Depot


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## daveomak

Corey, morning..... Nice build.... Now we get to see more aged food being made....  I have to build one of them some day....   Dave


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## BGKYSmoker

Nice build.

Watch the fan, it can make for some fast case hardening and the draw from the back can introduce bacteria and dirt into the cure area.

Whacha going to dry 1st


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## diggingdogfarm

nepas said:


> Watch the fan, it can make for some fast case hardening.



X2

You may want to consider a speed controller for the fan.

Very nice build!


~Martin


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## fpnmf

Looks great!!

  Craig


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## pgsmoker64

Nice job Corey!

So, what's up first for the new curing chamber?

Bill


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## xutfuzzy

PGSmoker64 said:


> Nice job Corey!
> 
> So, what's up first for the new curing chamber?
> 
> Bill


I figured I would start off with something "quick" and easy to see how my chamber works and what needed tweaking, so I am going with guanciale (cured pig jowl) and duck prosciutto.  I will, of course, document and post!


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## kingfishcam

Very cool!  Can't wait to see this full!


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## krazy4bakon

Very nice build! I wish I had a glass front cooler like yours! I just built one too and I can't wait to make something! I had to giggle when I read your opening line "Bacon got me hooked, pastrami sealed the deal!"
Me too...


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## mr t 59874

Yep, your hooked.  Will look forward to some results.

Tom


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## xutfuzzy

Just a teaser for some posts I will have soon. 













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__ Feb 25, 2013


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## kingfishcam

Looking very good to me!


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## frosty

This curing chamber is a thing of BEAUTY!  What a great primer on how to do it, and great photos.  I only wish I had room for a curing chamber, but, alas, no room at the inn.

Congratulations!


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## bluebombersfan

Great job!  Very detailed pics are great!  I am working on one too and will post soon.  Can't wait to see how those first goodies turn out!!!


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## fagesbp

Inspiring build. I'd love to make 1 nearly identical. Something else to keep a look out for on craigslist.


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## squirrel

What a fantastic tutorial! I'll keep an eye on you! I've been searching CL for something like what you have. Thanks for sharing all the details. It sure helps out when you're researching like I am. Great job!!!


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## BGKYSmoker

Squirrel said:


> What a fantastic tutorial! I'll keep an eye on you! I've been searching CL for something like what you have. Thanks for sharing all the details. It sure helps out when you're researching like I am. Great job!!!


Craigslist

Merchandiser

Thats where i bought my Sobe.













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__ Feb 26, 2013


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## zahlgren




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## trizzuth

This build as well as the SOBE one are just amazing! 

I'd love to have a see-through curing chamber, or smoker even, that would be the freshness.


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## jarjarchef

Looks great....now I want one.....just need somewhere to put it.....


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## fagesbp

jarjarchef said:


> Looks great....now I want one.....just need somewhere to put it.....



When you're done you can put it at my house :sausage:


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## tennsmoker

Hey Xutfuzzy,

Great drying curing chamber,

you done an excellent job on the Q-View pictorial for any SMF member to follow in your footstep and build one,

thanx for sharing your time and patience, 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






al


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## got grits

Real nice. Good work, looks like you plain a long time to make it. That is my next project building one in a year. First I have to learn how to cure before starting on one.

Glyn


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## goingcamping

fagesbp said:


> Inspiring build. I'd love to make 1 nearly identical. Something else to keep a look out for on craigslist.



fagesbp...here's a nice unit up for auction...it's a bit of a drive, but these typically sell for less than $100.00. LINK

I didn't want a curing cabinet until I saw this post! Badazz!

~Brett


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## fagesbp

Yeah san antonio is a pretty good ways from here, like an 8 hour drive.


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## roller

Outstanding build...


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## pops6927

Great build and excellent tutorial!  It's going to convince me to clean out the other half of the garage! lol!


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## johgre078

Great build and very good job.  Congrats!


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## spartan1967

Looking good now , now it time to put it to test , let us know how it works


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## BGKYSmoker




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## michael ark

Looks great!


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## spartan1967

looking good buddy keep up the good work


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## vecchiobob

Thanks xutfuzzy for the photos.
I have my fridge and my shopping list ready.....just need a few euros to get started 
I have made salami and chorizio in the past but my last batch the cases hardened and I had to throw away 5 kg of salami...
So I decided its time for a curing chamber.


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## bear55

What an amazing build.


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## greg g

Great job, my one questions is about the temperature controller:  Do you plug (or hardwire) the frig to the temp controller?


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## xutfuzzy

Greg G said:


> Great job, my one questions is about the temperature controller:  Do you plug (or hardwire) the frig to the temp controller?


The fridge plugs into the controller which plugs into the wall.  Here is a picture of the setup. 













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__ xutfuzzy
__ Oct 31, 2013






The grey power cord is the fridge, which is plugged into the black cord which is the temperature controller.  The copper wire you see is the long wire that is the thermometer wire that runs into the fridge.


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## pblrdom

Question regarding your chamber.

Is there an excessive amount of airflow with the two fans?  I have a smaller Fogel CC-7 21" fridge that I am just gearing up to convert into a chamber.  In your opinion would you recommend multiple fans like you did in your display case, one in and one out?  I have a few fans exactly like yours and don't mind putting holes in the fridge to install in a similar fashion.  My hesitation is that the cooler is much smaller and i don't know if it will cause too much airflow.

here is a pic of the cooler.













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## xutfuzzy

My build actually has only one fan, just two holes.  The hole in the top left has the fan that removes air from the chamber, and the second hole in the lower right just has a screen and filter, but no fan.  I did the math and calculated that the fan would could completely exchange the air in the chamber in 10 minutes, so I set it to a timer to run for 15 minutes twice a day.  That seemed to work, even for long term cures like my salamis.  

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/159228/4-salamis-with-pics-and-charts

Other members have suggested purchasing a voltage regulator and having the fan run at lower r.p.m.s for a longer duration, or even constantly.  That might work as well, and the lower r.p.m.s would help prevent drying out the surface of the meat too quickly, even though I haven't had that issue.  The humidifier seems to kick on right away whenever the fan does its thing.  

But to answer your question, I think 1 fan with two holes seems to work great.


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## pblrdom

xutfuzzy said:


> My build actually has only one fan, just two holes.  The hole in the top left has the fan that removes air from the chamber, and the second hole in the lower right just has a screen and filter, but no fan.  I did the math and calculated that the fan would could completely exchange the air in the chamber in 10 minutes, so I set it to a timer to run for 15 minutes twice a day.  That seemed to work, even for long term cures like my salamis.
> 
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/159228/4-salamis-with-pics-and-charts
> 
> Other members have suggested purchasing a voltage regulator and having the fan run at lower r.p.m.s for a longer duration, or even constantly.  That might work as well, and the lower r.p.m.s would help prevent drying out the surface of the meat too quickly, even though I haven't had that issue.  The humidifier seems to kick on right away whenever the fan does its thing.
> 
> But to answer your question, I think 1 fan with two holes seems to work great.



Thanks so much for the reply. I'm curious how you calculated the timing at 10 mins a day. I'm not a math guru :-(
In my scenario I just don't know about cutting the holes in the cooler because of how much smaller my cooler is than yours. Any suggestions?


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## xutfuzzy

PBLRDom said:


> Thanks so much for the reply. I'm curious how you calculated the timing at 10 mins a day. I'm not a math guru :-(
> In my scenario I just don't know about cutting the holes in the cooler because of how much smaller my cooler is than yours. Any suggestions?


Thankfully, when I purchased the fan it stated on the box how many cubic feet of air it moved per minute.   That was helpful.  From there, all I had to do was calculate the interior of my chamber (length x width x height) and then divide.  

For your sized cooler, the simple answer is to just open the door every day or two.  However, that doesn't lend itself to being as low-maintenance as you might prefer.  You may not have to cut large holes, just drill a couple of 1/8 or 1/4 inch holes with a drill, and then mount the fan on the outside.  It will draw the air through the small holes.  Drill some small holes on the other side, cover them with a screen or filter, and you are good to go.  If they don't work out, they would be easier to fill than a large hole.


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## palladini

nepas said:


> Nice build.
> 
> Watch the fan, it can make for some fast case hardening and the draw from the back can introduce bacteria and dirt into the cure area.


He should have the intake on the top and the exhaust on the bottom, that way his intake is above the dust level.  He should use the same filters and screens though.


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## jmay

I have a similar style fridge. The issue is if I turn my fan off it just gets to humid. It's the only thing that seems to reduce the accumulation of condensation water on the bottom. I found by leaving the door open a crack (1/2 inch) and the fan on I am able to maintain around 70% humidity and around 14 Deg C.

You warn that the fan will cause case hardening? Is this the case even with the fan below the sausages blowing out towards the cracked open door?


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## rob sicc

This is truely a work or art.  When will you begin taking orders?  lol  I iwsh I had the room for this.

Nice work.


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## jerrold cavasin

Greetings 

I just read your article and it mirrored my efforts on a smaller scale. I used a no defrost 10 cu ft fridge and cut out the top freezer floor. I used the same temp controller as you did and an ultrasonic mister for humidity with a commercial humidity controler (for a green house). Here is my observations:

The temp controller keeps the range within 10 degrees and the humidity can't recover fast enough to keep it any closer than 30%. It runs from 67% to 99%. I would like to keep it at 70-80% but can't hone it any closer. 

Any suggestions? It's been turning out great meats for the last 18 months but now and then I get a little case hardening and I know it's from irregular rh. I also have a computer fan in the fridge but no exhaust or inlet. It just runs all the time. Good or bad idea? I do develop a good mold fairly quickly but I wash it off with wine vinegar so I can see the meat drying. 

Since my wife and I started we have done about 160 lbs of capicolla (raw), 200 + lbs of salami/pepperoni and some spalla. Right now we have 33 lbs in the drier: 11 lbs of pepperoni (old trad.), 11 lbs of brisket salami, 11 lbs of venison salami, and an 11 lb spalla. All these are drying down to  a loss of 40% before it's harvested but we like our salami's at 50% weight loss. Our capicollo's are cut at 60 days (about 30% loss).  

Here are some pis of the past and present products.













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## gibsorz

This is a sweet build. Exactly what I was planning on building, with the same amazon products I've been looking at.  except I am planning on getting a frost free freezer to do it with...no glass door sadly (that is really cool with the glass door). But from what I have seen is the Frost free freezers do have a small built in fan. So with a hole punched in for wiring, it should be enough to provide the required airflow, just have to disconnect the defroster disconnect because it would steal away humidity.


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## xutfuzzy

Good suggestions...I won't be making any changes right now because it's working and I don't want to mess with that.  Temperature and humidity are stable now, so why mess with a good thing?  Here is the one MAJOR suggestion that I will make:  Get a humidifier that doesn't have a push-button on/off switch.  The problem I found with my original model is that I had to press a button to turn it on, and it created humidity until the external controller turned it off by cutting off the electricity.  Then, when the humidity eventually dropped, the external controller would let the electricity flow again, but the humidifier needed to have the button pushed again to turn it on.  I tried various ways of taping it down with mixed results.  After enough times of going downstairs to check on it only to see that the tape job had failed and the humidifier wasn't working, I went out and bought a new unit that had a permanent switch to turn it on.   So, as electricity is cut off and resupplied, the unit is always in the "on" position and will start working again.

Otherwise, keep the suggestions coming!  Let others benefit from your knowledge!


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## gibsorz

There are more than two ways to skin a cat. The most important part is that it works.


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## alan warfield

xutfuzzy said:


> Good suggestions...I won't be making any changes right now because it's working and I don't want to mess with that.  Temperature and humidity are stable now, so why mess with a good thing?  Here is the one MAJOR suggestion that I will make:  Get a humidifier that doesn't have a push-button on/off switch.  The problem I found with my original model is that I had to press a button to turn it on, and it created humidity until the external controller turned it off by cutting off the electricity.  Then, when the humidity eventually dropped, the external controller would let the electricity flow again, but the humidifier needed to have the button pushed again to turn it on.  I tried various ways of taping it down with mixed results.  After enough times of going downstairs to check on it only to see that the tape job had failed and the humidifier wasn't working, I went out and bought a new unit that had a permanent switch to turn it on.   So, as electricity is cut off and resupplied, the unit is always in the "on" position and will start working again.
> 
> Otherwise, keep the suggestions coming!  Let others benefit from your knowledge!


What model humidifier did you replace the home depot one with?


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## quantri

I have 1 question, seems to me that by using the fan for your air exchange

you are losing your desired Humidity and Temperature making your compressor

and humidifier work overtime. I have been making sausage and pepperoni (both

fresh and dry cured) for 18 years and it seems to come out perfectly all the

time. Once the product has gone thru the initial temp./humidity phase of about

48 hours (depending on the product) there is absolutely no need for air exchange.

During that initial 48 hours, I just put a piece of 1/4 " dowel between the door and

the box and my humidifier and compressor hardly ever run.

My set points are 70 deg. F and 70% R.H.

From there I go to the final stage of just cooling for approx. 30 days.

Just my thoughts.


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## mendozer

this is awesome! I've been wanting to do this for so long, but haven't found a beverage cooler cheap enough. Numerous controlling items are out there now and would work great. I plan to use this hopefully for dry curing meats too.


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## mendozer

I also meant to ask, how often do you need to clean it? I was planning on putting UV lights in there for improved sanitation. But I don't know how that would affect the mold growth we want.


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## franklin3

Thanks for sharing, I’ve been wanting to try this.


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## Swine Savvy

Great looking stuff guys, i kniw this thread was started some time ago but i have some air flow questions. I have a large double door True glass door cooler. When it is in cooling mode, there is a large internal fan that is quite powerful, i havemt hooked everything up yet but im wondering if this fan will be on enough throughout the day to give me case hardening issues ? Also is the exchange of air as important as air circulation ? Pease help.


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## airmec

Swine Savvy said:


> Great looking stuff guys, i kniw this thread was started some time ago but i have some air flow questions. I have a large double door True glass door cooler. When it is in cooling mode, there is a large internal fan that is quite powerful, i havemt hooked everything up yet but im wondering if this fan will be on enough throughout the day to give me case hardening issues ? Also is the exchange of air as important as air circulation ? Pease help.


I placed a sheet of plexi about 2in larger in dia and about 2in lower (used the four mounting screws) to make the air move around the sides not straight down


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## Swine Savvy

So you think im safe with merely a deflector, to prevent case hardening ?


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## joseph blessing

you can also find coolers like that at PCI auctions.com I just bought a 3 glass door for 1.00 they are not all cheap like that but if your patient you can
buy between 1.00 and 200.00


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## daveomak

If you want to slow the fan speed down, you can always install one of these...  about $15...  they are about 2x3" ..






Yeeco AC 110V 4000W SCR Voltage Regulator Speed Control Driver Dimming Dimmer Thermostat Governing Temperature Governor Fan Motor Controller


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## 4EvrDude

DaveOmak, my neighbor and I are building our own Drying and Curing Chamber. We’re in Manson. We may have to draw on your expertise....:-) ???

One question I have is do you need a separate fermentation chamber? 

How do you introduce new product? What happens when you already have a lot of product into the chamber  which has already been through the fermentation process?  Thanks!!!


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## daveomak

Holly has more experience than I...  He could answer your question mobetta than I.....


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## 4EvrDude

Thanks!!!


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## 4EvrDude

Thanks. I understand your curing explanation as the first step.

My question is if you have product in the drying/aging chamber that has already been fermented and/or inoculated, how can you add new product that requires fermentation at higher temps and RH?

It seems to me that you would have to have a separate chamber solely for fermentation and inoculation. Or, alternately, plan your product accordingly so you will not be adding product to your batch of meats.


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## 4EvrDude

Holly2015 said:


> You cannot. Each step is a sperate environment with the exception when these separate environment are close. Like when I add freshly mold inoculated meats to the drying/aging chamber.
> 
> Fermentation is in my belief too different a temperature setting verses drying/aging. Fermenting is done around 80 degrees and drying/aging is around 57 degrees.
> 
> Meats may ferment at 57 +/- but it may be too slow. Fermenting is supposed to be a fairly fast process to get the pH to the point where its inhospitable to certain bacteria and the added benefit of a different taste to us. While meats may ferment in 57 degree temp it would probably happen too slowly to be effective.
> 
> So you will have to ferment if and when the outside air conditions are right or build a small fermentation chamber. The good news is since fermentation usually happens at temperatures (80/85) higher than what is generally comfortable (70/75) most of the time a chamber can be a container w/o mechanical refrigeration. A big new Sertite plastic container or trash can with the addition of heat and humidity will work. When I built an inoculation chamber I used a new trash can setting on a heating pad with distilled water in the bottom covered the opening with cheese cloth and then a clean tea towel over the top as a baffle/thermometer. It took some adjusting but I ended up leaving about 1/3 of opening uncovered and the heating pad on low it held perfect temp humidity until mold established about 48 hours later.
> 
> I did a DIY pictorial and posted it here a year or so ago. If I find it I'll post a link.


Ok, I got it. I think our DIY built out may turn out to be the easy part....making product should be a real challenge. Gotta get my newbie head wrapped around that.

Thanks again!!!


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## 4EvrDude

Holly2015 said:


> The hardest part is not the build or the recipe its waiting for the meats to dry and age.


You betcha!!! Now I have figure out a starting point. Namely what salumi to make. And understand what starting culture I need, casings as well as any netting. Moreovercwhat spray to use to get that white color.

Thoughts???


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## 4EvrDude

I think I understand. You inoculate before fermentation. Next comes the drying stage???

Btw, we completed our chamber based on your tutorial. Everything is working. Now we just have to find a Salumi recipe as a beta test.


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## indaswamp

Swine Savvy said:


> Great looking stuff guys, i kniw this thread was started some time ago but i have some air flow questions. I have a large double door True glass door cooler. When it is in cooling mode, there is a large internal fan that is quite powerful, i havemt hooked everything up yet but im wondering if this fan will be on enough throughout the day to give me case hardening issues ? Also is the exchange of air as important as air circulation ? Pease help.


I just obtained a True double door cooler with glass doors. I have been researching online and reading a ton of info on the project. Thanks to Al, I found this youtube:

and he addresses the large fan issue in true coolers by removing the large fan and replacing it with a computer fan and a rheostat controller. Which is direction I think I will go on my build.


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