# Bob's MES 30 Analog build



## hondo (Sep 20, 2017)

I made a mistake when I bought my MES 30. I thought all MES 30 smokers could work with the external "Cold Smoker" but I was incorrect. So I am starting off with a MES 30 Analog and a Cold Smoker that will not attache to my smoker. Rather than send the smoker or the Cold Smoker back I just decide to make it all work. This is the build as it happens. Since my divorce I live in a small apartment and don't have easy access to my two workshops at my old house. I will do what I can here and go to the welding and Knife making shops only if I can't do something here. Should be a good reference for anyone else in an apartment without ready access to lots of tools and welders.

So, here we go.

Here is what I wanted, the Cold Smoker (Smoke Generator) to be able to mount to the analog MES 30.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 19, 2017






So now we begin with INSTALLMENT #1

I did not take a photo but I cut a hole in the side of the smoker to accomodate the Cold Smoker pipe.Then I put high temp RTV around the pipe and inserted it into the MES 30.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 19, 2017


















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__ hondo
__ Sep 19, 2017






I mounted the Cold Smoker permanently to the MES 30 by attaching with screws at the top of the Cold Smoker into the side of the MES 30.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 19, 2017






Then I used a bracket from Lowe's, you can find it where the brackets are for hanging trusses and other methods of attaching wood together. I just got a 1" wide X 8" long flat strap for under $2 and modified it by bending it until it broke and filing the edges. It had two large holes and these were perfect for mounting to the foot locations on the Cold Smoker. Then I drilled and screwed the other side to the lip on the bottom of the smoker.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 19, 2017





View media item 552192
On the inside of the smoker I sealed the pipe with the high temp RTV.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017






Now the "Smoke Generator is permanently installed and sealed.

That is it for INSTALLMENT #1

Stay Tuned for the next part of this build. I have other mods I plan on doing.


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## tallbm (Sep 20, 2017)

Nice job!  It looks like it is going to work out for you.  Let us know how it smokes once you get it seasoned and perform you first smoke :)


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## hondo (Sep 20, 2017)

INSTALLMENT #2

As others have done I added a rack for hanging snack sticks and sausages.

These were purchased from Lowe's. They are paint sticks for stirring 5 gallon buckets of paint. They also have a ruler on them which came in handy for cutting and spacing of the dowels. A three pack was 95¢. I also bought 3 dowels that are 1/2" in diameter.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017


















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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017






I cut them off at 13".













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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017






Taped them together.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017






Drilled 1/2" Holes to make the half moons to hang the rods on. I did not take a photo but others have shown this and that is where I got the idea for mine. I used a nickle as a spacer to get them even from the roof of the smoker and drilled holes for mounting. Here they are mounted.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017






Here it is complete.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 20, 2017






End of INSTALLMENT #2


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## hondo (Sep 20, 2017)

INSTALLMENT #3

I got this idea from dward51.

Insulating the door of the smoker. I ordered off ebay and got the brand fireblack 1/2"X1/8"X15' with High Temp adhesive. I got 1/2" because I ordered the wrong one. I wanted 3/4" like he used but the 1/2" works just fine.

I just cut four pieces, two for the sides and two for the top and bottom, peel the paper off and stick it in place. The door did not even need adjusting. I will see how well it does when I do the seasoning smoke.

End of INSTALLMENT #3


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## daveomak (Sep 20, 2017)

Looking good so far...    Have you thought about a bigger exhaust ??  Could help with the smoke flavor and venting moisture...


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## hondo (Sep 20, 2017)

Yes I have and have scoured the web for a small chimney. Looks like I may have to drive to my shop and make one. Trying to figure out what else I need while I am there. Don't want to drive that far for only one little job.

Anyone have suggestions on where to get a chimney that I can open and close? There was a nice one recommended in another post from Lowe's but they don't make them anymore.

The guy at Lowe's suggested PVC, they have no clue. Plus I want it to look good, the rest of the setup will look good.

Thanks for the suggestion.


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## daveomak (Sep 20, 2017)

Considering the height of the smoker body, you don't need a chimney  ....


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## hondo (Sep 21, 2017)

Maybe so Dave but I would have to enlarge what is there and plan on using that hole for thermocouple entrance. I want to exhaust to exit at the top left of the smoker forcing the smoke across the box.


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## daricksta (Sep 21, 2017)

Hondo said:


> I made a mistake when I bought my MES 30. I thought all MES 30 smokers could work with the external "Cold Smoker" but I was incorrect. So I am starting off with a MES 30 Analog and a Cold Smoker that will not attache to my smoker. Rather than send the smoker or the Cold Smoker back I just decide to make it all work. This is the build as it happens. Since my divorce I live in a small apartment and don't have easy access to my two workshops at my old house. I will do what I can here and go to the welding and Knife making shops only if I can't do something here. Should be a good reference for anyone else in an apartment without ready access to lots of tools and welders.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> ...


The creativity and ingenuity of some of you SMF members continues to amaze and impress me.


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## hondo (Sep 21, 2017)

Thanks daRicksta. I'm not done yet. Hopefully the rest will assist someone else.


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## hondo (Sep 21, 2017)

INSTALLMENT #4

I made some progress on the smoker today.

First, the replacement heating element came in so I tackled it first. It did not fit as is so I had to modify the mounting. I cut off the surrounding metal from the leads and adapted it to fit into the housing left behind by the old element. A bit of a pain without all my tools but and angle grinder is a wonderful thing sometimes. I also removed the legs supplied to hold the element off the floor and am using the bars built into the smoker. Well not really using them as the element holds itself straight out and about 1/4" above the bars.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017


















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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






On to the next project.

My son called and said he was heading over to pick something up he left here so I asked him to stop by the shop and do me a favor. Cut a 3/16" piece of steel I have that has holes in it to the size of 13X14 7/8". I also asked him to bring a metal stand I have out back and a piece of wood that is a shelf for inside a lower kitchen cabinet.

Here is an overall shot of how I plan on using the tool stand and the cabinet shelf.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






I used these brackets to secure the smoker to the table. I'll cut the parts off that are not doing anything for a cleaner look and screw them more securely after I am done with the build and get it all outside.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






Here is the steel as I got it.

.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






Since I did not have a wire brush for the angle grinder I had to find another way to knock off some of the rust. A vinegar bath to the rescue.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






I raised the shelf brackets up because that bottom shelf would be pretty much worthless anyway and put the steel plate where the mounting screws were and used them to put those little "L" brackets to hold it. After a couple hours in the vinegar and some scrubbing with a Scotchbright Pad, here is the result installed in the smoker.  Not perfect but no loose rust. I see this as dual functional. First I hope it evens out the heat even more than just changing the heating element and second it is a sturdy shelf for a dutch oven of beans or, if I wanted to, make toast on it.













20170921_160540 (Medium).jpg



__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






On to next project.

I am a nut about wires. I hate having wires dangle all over the place so I decided to add some cable management. I will be adding some temp control stuff so will have powered items on the top of the smoker. I added a 2" PVC pipe to the back so I can take all dangling wires and push them down into the tube and they will be out of the way. The power cords for the temp control stuff will feed down through this tube as well. Everything will be neat and tidy.













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






Last for today I think is a VERY simple thing but something easy to do.

I plan on adding a chimney on the top of the smoker on the left side. Therefore I don't need the hole at the top right so may as well use it for inserting thermocouple wires into the interior of the smoker. To do that I wanted to make the hole smaller so I bought the following:













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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017


















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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017


















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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017


















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__ hondo
__ Sep 21, 2017






That is all for INSTALLMENT 4


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## hondo (Sep 23, 2017)

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Got it all cleaned up and painted the stand and cabinet shelf. Did my seasoning run. Got it up to 350 and that was all it has. I expected more from a 1200W element but don't think I will need to go that high anyway.

Been messing with the PID controller that I have but I don't like it. It is a REX-c100 and only reports in Celsius and is flaky to figure out. I did set it at 100 Celsius (212 degrees) and it stayed there with virtually no deviation for over an hour.

The PID reads zero with the thermocouple in the freezer and 100 in boiling water so things look right on. However I used two other methods (that can't be calibrated) to measure at the same time and these were not even close. Not sure what is up with them. The analog dial on the front read 200.

Can anyone recommend a PID that works well and reports in Fahrenheit that has a decent manual and will not break the bank? Already have a few bucks into this thing. Ideally I would like a two probe PID that allows one probe to provide the input the pid need to maintain the temperature and the second to monitor the temp at another level in the smoker. If I could find a fairly inexpensive unit like that I would buy it. I would then also need meat thermometer that would monitor two pieces of meat. I'm going to have to research this a bit but look forward to any suggestions anyone has.

Here is the smoker as it sits now.













20170923_112923 (Medium).jpg



__ hondo
__ Sep 23, 2017






And in place with my grill and a security cable locking both together and to the fence.













20170923_175030 (Medium).jpg



__ hondo
__ Sep 23, 2017






Thanks for looking.


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## dward51 (Sep 23, 2017)

Nice mods!!!!!

This is the smokestack I used on my mod. I ordered it from Lowes as it's a replacement for one of their smoker/grills.  I think it was like $19 shipped and is stainless (ordering info is below).  I made a spacer ring out of sheet aluminum that is friction fit in the hole between the inner liner and outer shell of the smoker body (I insulated 100% of mine though).  I also used 3/4" steel spacers to prevent the bolts from crushing the inner liner against the outer as I tightened them (the air gap between the inner and outer liners is approx 3/4").

Here is the info on the smoke stack I ordered from Lowes....


> After some google searching and finding a different model grill/smoker with the same style smoke stack, I found something that will work. They have the stainless version of that same smoke stack still in stock if you use the following grill/smoker info when you order.  They did ask me when I bought my smoker (I presume it's an older model?), and I told her I bought it from a co-worker and just needed to replace a part I damaged and it was not a warranty part.  Lowe's phone number to call is 800-963-0211
> 
> Master Forge 32" Charcoal Grill
> 
> ...















20170621_001137.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 24, 2017


















20170617_234530a.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 18, 2017


















20170617_232132a.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 18, 2017


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## dward51 (Sep 23, 2017)

PS - you might as well go ahead and order a Auber Instruments "plug-n-play" PID box to control the temps.  The swings on the analog dial are pretty wide and hard to set with any accuracy.  This is the current version of the one I have (I've had it a few years).  Single temp/probe model but it has 6 programmable steps which is perfect for sausage & sticks.  I can set each temp change and time at each step.  The analog element just plugs into the back of the PID box and you turn then analog temp setting dial to full on and let the PID run the show:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=110













1500Efronta.jpg



__ dward51
__ Sep 23, 2017






They also have it in a dual probe, dual temp model, but it is more expensive (pit & meat temp in one):

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_28&products_id=381













WSD-1500A_a.jpg



__ dward51
__ Sep 23, 2017


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## hondo (Sep 23, 2017)

I tried to get that smokestack after reading your thread, it is out of production. I talked to Lowe's and they have no idea what else to use but; "How about PVC?"

I like the dual probe Auber but will need to wait a bit. Got crap to spend cash on first. I'll make due with the cheap REX for a while until other crap goes away and the will pony up for the Auber 2 probe.

Thanks for jumping in and pointing me in a good direction.


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## tallbm (Sep 23, 2017)

Hondo said:


> I tried to get that smokestack after reading your thread, it is out of production. I talked to Lowe's and they have no idea what else to use but; "How about PVC?"
> 
> I like the dual probe Auber but will need to wait a bit. Got crap to spend cash on first. I'll make due with the cheap REX for a while until other crap goes away and the will pony up for the Auber 2 probe.
> 
> Thanks for jumping in and pointing me in a good direction.


Maybe this inexpensive chargrill replacement stack will work

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/267069/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed


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## dward51 (Sep 23, 2017)

If you have a local Lowes, Home Depot, Academy Sports or other store that sells smokers and grills, I would go by there and see if they have a floor model with the type of smoke stack you think would work.  Copy down the make and model number and then call about a replacement part.  Lowes asked when I bought my smoker (I presume for warranty), but I just told them I bought it from a buddy at work and damaged my smoke stack when we moved it and it would not be under warranty.     Also some models are specific to certain stores, so try a little google research to see if it's at another store under a slightly different model number.


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## hondo (Sep 24, 2017)

I ordered a 1-1/2"ball valve and will use a nipple and a ring or something to hold in place. The reason I say a ring or something is because I read somewhere here that some people have extended the chimney on the inside of the smoker. Can anyone talk about that? Is there really any benefit to it? It seems to me that the smoke would rise to the top of the smoker and fill it up until it gets low enough to escape through the exhaust. I can see that putting the top shelf in smoke longer but is it stale smoke?

Does anyone think this is a good idea? If so can you explain why?

I also think that if this is beneficial, maybe it should be extended to the bottom of the smoker. If the smoke has to build up until it completely fills the inside of the smoker and then exit from the floor, it would kinda be acting like a reverse flow offset, right? This could help keep everything at the same temp.

Opinions?

Thanks


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## hondo (Sep 24, 2017)

TallBM,

I think that was the wrong link.


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## tallbm (Sep 24, 2017)

Hondo said:


> TallBM,
> 
> I think that was the wrong link.


Weird, lets try again.

https://www.charbroil.com/smoke-stack-for-charcoal-side-1767060


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## dward51 (Sep 24, 2017)

In my original plans for my MES Custom SS mod, I was going to install a round "dispersion" plate centered below the smoke stack inlet and spaced about 1" below the top of the inner liner.  My thoughts were it would help to keep the heat more even from the center of the smoker to the edges.  Before I installed it, I figured I would run the MES Custom with just the smoke stack (which has a 2 1/4" diameter).  I did not notice any real heat differences across the racks so I left it as is.  I've thought about using a piece of scrap poster board on a snack stick smoke (170* tops, the poster board should hand that OK) and just let the bolts friction fit through holes and see if it makes any difference.

If  you are going to use a ball valve through the body as your smoke stack (which is a novel idea and a good one IMO), I would up it to 2" or even 2 1/2" and just use short lengths of black steel pipe to complete the stack.  Should be fairly inexpensive and give total control over air flow.   I also enlarged the hole over the drip tray for more inflow of air when I modified my MES. I used the same 2 1/4" size hole as the smokestack.  I did not use the existing hole as the center as I wanted to ensure the entire hole was over the drip pan so it will still function as a drip pan.  I made the back edge of the existing hole along the back edge of the enlarged hole as the drip pan does not go the entire length of the body of the smoker (front to back), but it does extend all the way from just past the hole in the back to the front edge of the smoker.  The drip pan sits about 3/8" below the bottom so there is plenty of air flow into towards that intake hole.

Probably makes more sense in photos....













20170620_133921.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 20, 2017


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## hondo (Sep 25, 2017)

I think that having the external smoke generator would add additional air accomplishing the same thing as your enlarged opening at the bottom.

The ball valve is a good idea in my opinion as well it is infinitely adjustable and all brass so nothing to melt. The only real problem with ball valves is that they are expensive. A 2" ball valve is $52. I bought a 1.5" at HomeDepot.com for #18.33. If I need more airflow I can add a second 1.5" somewhere else to spread out the exhaust and still be cheaper than the 2".

Adding a second 1.5" may be a good idea just for the option of forcing two exhausts.

My ultimate goal here is snack sticks. I want them to cook/dry evenly. I have seen people hang them from the rods at the top to the bottom rack and they appear to come out great but I worry about the bottom being over done and the tops being raw. Therefore even temp as possible is the objective.

If I can get things right for snack sticks then all other smoking operations would work out fine.


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## dr k (Sep 25, 2017)

An exhaust ball valve sounds great but being such a tight fit to regulate water, oil or gas it may seize with sticky smoke reidue when the smoker cools when not being used. On my mes 40 when cool the top vent is locked into it's last set position so I loosened the nut for more play so I can break it loose when cool. Since it sits in the recessed opening and is only closed on preheating and when done applying smoke it probably doesn't need a nut and bolt. It's easy to move when hot. I was just wondering if the tight ball valve would be more maintenance. 
-Kurt


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## daveomak (Sep 25, 2017)

Hondo....    To get a uniform heat supply in your electric smoker, get something to cut down the wattage so the element stays on all the time... 

I have done that with my electric smoker...  I adjust the wattage and control the temp with the controller....  

I used a dimmer switch BUT in the last few years electronics has improved...  Now I have 2 SCR's for controlling other electric stuff and they are cheap and work awesome....


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## hondo (Sep 25, 2017)

I have used ball valves on other smokers and the sticky residu has not been an issue. I think it just rubs off as you turn the vale due to the tight tolerance.

I have used ball valves for both incoming air and exhaust air control. About the best thing I can think of for this. I have been using them for many years on all of the 20+ smokers I have built over the years.

Dave,

Keeping the heat consistent is not my problem using a PID, getting the entire inside of the smoker to be at the same heat is my goal. I want to eliminate hot and cold spots as much as possible.


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## daveomak (Sep 25, 2017)

The heating element turning on and off creates a very hot spot when it turns on...  and a cold spot when it's off...  Having it on continually at a reduced wattage evens out the heat in the smoking cabinet....   It's like turning down the flame on a gas burner.....

My ultimate goal here is snack sticks. I want them to cook/dry evenly. I have seen people hang them from the rods at the top to the bottom rack and they appear to come out great but I worry about the bottom being over done and the tops being raw. 

Reducing the wattage will solve the problem you describe....


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## dward51 (Sep 25, 2017)

Dave,

The PID pulses the power to the element.  It is not a full on / full off type situation as the element never gets fully heated when it's close to the set point due to the pulsing.  I have not seen any issues of a hot spot in my modded MES on a PID.  Also as temps start to fall of it pulses the element to gently bump the chamber temp back up to the set point.   That is how PID's hold such tight temp tolerances, and I generally see only a 2 degree swing at the most.

The only time the PID has the element "full on" is after I've had the door open moving the grates around to deal with the heat distribution in the MES.

Hondo,

Unless you are using 1 or 2 grates, there is going to be some heat difference on the levels.  It's just a fact caused by the rising heat column.  At the lower levels there is more heat/energy in the air. Part of this is sucked up by the meat being smoked so there is less energy/heat at the next grate up, and so forth.   I don't really notice it until I start putting 4 or 5 grates in mine.  It's easy to deal with.  At about the 2/3 time mark I swap the grate order moving the top to bottom, 2nd from to to 2nd from bottom, etc...   I can run up to 8 grates in my modded MES, but the most I have run is 5 at one time.  I smoke my sticks laying flat on a PTFE coated fiberglass mesh mat on top of each grate.  Same for cut whole meat jerky.  I have figured out that at about the 2/3 time mark if I do the grate rotation, that is the only time I need to fiddle with the grates in mine on a snack stick smoke (top temp set for 170* in the final stage).


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## hondo (Sep 25, 2017)

Tonight I decided to do a test for maximum heat. I turned the smoker on full blast to see how hot it would go. It went to 250 at the one hour mark. At two hours it was still at 250.  I had it to 350 for the seasoning run but that was with a really old thermocouple so now with new one I only get 250. I used two meters, mine with a new thermocouple and the neighbors. Both read 250. That is not going to do it for me. I now there are times I will want to raise the temp over 250 for crisping chicken skin or other things.

The one thing I have not done is eliminate the "Controller" that is used for temp control. I know it is limiting the wattage to the element and removing it and wiring direct with PID control will probably get me the ability to go a lot higher. Anyone here already eliminate the control pot and if so how is it working out?


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## tallbm (Sep 25, 2017)

Hondo said:


> Tonight I decided to do a test for maximum heat. I turned the smoker on full blast to see how got it would go. It went to 250 at the one hour mark. At two hours it was still at 250.  I had it to 350 for the seasoning run but that was with a really old thermocouple so now with new one I only get 250. I used two meters, mine with a new thermocouple and the neighbors. Both read 250. That is not going to do it for me. I now there are times I will want to raise the temp over 250 for crisping chicken skin or other things.
> 
> The one thing I have not done is eliminate the "Controller" that is used for temp control. I know it is limiting the wattage to the element and removing it and wiring direct with PID control will probably get me the ability to go a lot higher. Anyone here already eliminate the control pot and if so how is it working out?


I only have for digital MES40's never an analogue version but it is the same principle.  It is pretty easy you just need the wire from the cable to connect to the heating element. 

Best of luck :)


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## hondo (Sep 25, 2017)

The mod is easy. I was looking for the RESULTS others have had by doing the mod. If I had the connectors I would have already done the mod.

I have a 1250 watt element and am curious how it will do when supplied with full power compared to the limited power the provided Potentiometer allows. I would love the ability to get over 400 degrees, not that I would ever need it but having that flexibility to go to any level I want is the goal.

I am sure someone here has done it and I would like to hear how it worked. There is always the possibility that it won't help at all and there is no point doing the mod.


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## dward51 (Sep 25, 2017)

I did not eliminate the analog temp control when I added a PID to mine.  I just crank it to full on and let the PID run the show (the analog control plugs into the back of the PID box).  I want to say mine is a 1500 watt element and I saw yours is 1200w.  I know mine topped out at around 375* during seasoning and with a full load of meat about 290* is the best I can do.  Also mine is fully insulated with roxul mineral wool.

I've just recently started using mine for stuff other than sticks and jerky and it sits right next to my big Weber S670 gasser so I can crisp/sear to finish on that.   Since I'm using a pellet tray for smoke, I keep mine at around 225* and just finish on the gas grill if needed.  I really like just flipping on the PID, and starting a 3" line of pellets and by the time I get the meat prepped, the pit is at 225* and the pellets are ready to be blown out and put in for smoke.  I built mine for sticks and jerky but it's seeing a lot of other uses now.


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## hondo (Sep 25, 2017)

Your 1500 watt is the one that came with it? I replaced mine with another shape for even heating. Seems to me 1250 should be fine for such a small volume.

I will make a temp cord and test it with straight full power and see how it goes. If it gets considerably hotter, I'll make the change permanent and add the PID.


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## dward51 (Sep 25, 2017)

No, the MES analog comes with a 1200 watt stock element.  I put in a 1500 watt element I had used for my e-WSM mod.  The stock MES element ran way too hot on the right side as I was pulling the chip tray out in my mods.  They concentrate the element on that side to keep the chips lit.  I wanted a more even heat distribution.  Here is the original MES element and the one I put in when I did the mods.  MES stock is on the left in the first photo (and the other element is still mounted in my extra WSM door).  Middle photo is the stock MES element as it came installed, and bottom photo is my 1500 watt element slid in the stock mounting hole (tight fit on the right side, but it did fit).  The modded element has two legs on the far side to keep the element from sagging so I could pull the MES element support bars out, just never got around to it.

I still don't know if my element will crisp chicken like you described wanting to do.  I built mine for sticks and jerky and doing other things in there is a bonus for me as I have other smokers for chicken and higher temp cooks/smokes.













20170620_131240.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 20, 2017


















20170620_131152.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 20, 2017


















20170620_133921.jpg



__ dward51
__ Jun 20, 2017


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## hondo (Oct 6, 2017)

Added another change to the smoker. Added the smoke stack.
Parts include a 1.5" ball valve and a 1.5" closed nipple and a locking ring.

Here are the photos

Inside, outside and a wisp of smoke


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## tallbm (Oct 6, 2017)

looks good!


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## dward51 (Oct 6, 2017)

Time to make a test run!!!!


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