# Smoke Proof Smoker Door



## smokin-aces

I'm beginning my third smoker build and I still haven't figured out how to effectively "smoke proof" the doors. The first two smokers I built were each made from two 55 gallon drums. However, this time I am stepping up my game and making one out of a 300 gallon tank on a trailer. So I am really wanting this one to function properly.

Can ya'll give me some ideas of how to seal smoker doors? I want it to be so that when I close the door, no smoke comes out around the door. I only want smoke to come out of the exhaust. Any ideas are welcomed. Thanks in advance!


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## smokeeater 18

The only think I can think of is add trim around the door and glue on fireplace rope to that so it seals up where you cut... Hope that helps


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## dirt guy

It's as much  about having the proper tools and techniques to do the work as it is finding a "trick". 

Use thick 3/16" to 3/8", quality metal to keep warping to a minimum
Use the least amount of heat you need to make your cuts.  Plasma cutters use the least, well-tuned torches next, cutting wheels last.
Make your doors as small as you can and still be functional to ensure structural integrity.
When welding, use tack welding technique to keep things straight and true.  There are other methods, but are more time consuming and would take too long to explain here.
If needed, use strapping to overlap your doors to cover the cracks.  Thin strapping can be manipulated to seal up cracks fairly easily.
Remember, if you have a lot of smoke due to less-than-dry wood, not enough heat, etc., all the "smoke proofing" will be to no avail.


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## smokin-aces

I tried this on my first smoker, but what happens is when you put the rope under the trim, the door won't shut all the way. The rope holds the door open about 1" at the bottom because the rope contacts at the top of the door first.


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## smokin-aces

Dirt Guy said:


> It's as much  about having the proper tools and techniques to do the work.
> 
> Use thick 3/16" to 3/8", quality metal to keep warping to a minimum
> Use the least amount of heat you need to make your cuts.  Plasma cutters use the least, well-tuned torches next, cutting wheels last.
> Make your doors as small as you can and still be functional to ensure structural integrity.
> When welding, use tack welding technique to keep things straight and true.  There are other methods, but are more time consuming and would take too long to explain here.
> If needed, use strapping to overlap your doors to cover the cracks.  Thin strapping can be manipulated to seal up cracks fairly easily.
> Remember, if you have a lot of smoke due to less-than-dry wood, not enough heat, etc., all the "smoke proofing" will be to no avail.


I have tried the strapping technique, but maybe I did it wrong. When done properly, how well does the strapping technique work?


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## smokin-aces

I have tried the strapping technique on the 55 gallon drum builds, but it didn't work. I think some of it is because the metal a 55 gallon drum is made of is so flimsy that the door warps easily.

When used on good heavy metal, how well does strapping the doors seal in smoke?


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## dirt guy

Here are two pics of how my brother did it on the "Legend".  It works very well.  If you notice, they are only tacked in several places and don't have a solid weld.  A solid weld might cause warpage.  It is important that the doors are fitted properly before the strapping is welded together.  The "chain link" hinges allow room for the strapping all the way across the top.













379365340.jpg



__ dirt guy
__ Dec 30, 2012


















379365563.jpg



__ dirt guy
__ Dec 30, 2012






The thermometer is placed as close to the cooking grates as possible for the truest temps in relation to the meat.  Temps in the top of the cooking chamber can be as much as 100 degrees hotter.  The hole below the thermometer are for the probe leads for the meat thermometer.


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## smokin-aces

That looks like a rather enormous smoker!

I suppose I will try this technique again and see how it works. I probably will use wider straps though, just to make sure there is enough overlap.

What is the best way to bend the straps before putting it on the door. I have noticed that if I tack the strap at the top of the door and tack it as I bend it down, it will put spring on the door and warp it.


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## dirt guy

The strapping is rather thin, so it molds to the door's form easily.  IIRC, he put a temporary handle on the door and welded a piece of angle iron on the bottom of the door to keep it flush (perhaps just a little below flush) with the smoker body.  He then welded the top strap in place, fitting it to where the door stayed in the same place in relation to the body.  He then used C-clamps to conform the strapping to the doors.  The straps were hand fitted and clamped before being first welded together and then to the door. 

The smoker is 18' in length and has two cooking chambers with the fire box in the middle.  We had in excess of 52 racks of St. Louis style ribs on it at one time a few weeks ago.













379365519.jpg



__ dirt guy
__ Dec 30, 2012






Here is the link to the entire photo album:

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22792150

The pics can be seen in slideshow mode if you wish, just look for the link.


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## smokin-aces

So it uses a the down draft technique. I was actually planning to use this 'down draft" technique but I wasn't sure how well it would work. My smoker is 7 ft long by 30 inches diameter. I am planning to designate about 30 inches of the right side to be the "firebox"/open flame grill and the remaining 54 inches to be the smoker area. The firebox/grill will have a fire grate for the wood to sit on and above that will be a rack to cook steaks, burgers, chickens, etc on. Then it will be separated by a sheet of metal with a slot cut out of the top to allow smoke through. 

Here is a link to the beginning stages of this build.

http://s1193.beta.photobucket.com/u...Mobile Uploads/1229121812.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


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## daveomak

aces, morning.... Plug weld the straps...  Use 20 ga so it can be manipulated to fit the smoker..... 













Plug and Slot Welds.gif



__ daveomak
__ Jan 1, 2013





                      

          Hinge pin locating so the seal/strap doesn't bind on the cook chamber.....  The dark, shaded spot is the strap "plug" weld...













Hinge and Pin (2).jpg



__ daveomak
__ Jan 1, 2013






Lastly, to smoke proof the doors, leave the exhaust stack wide open at all times.... If smoke still comes out the doors, make the stack bigger diameter and taller.... That will place the cook chamber under "negative pressure" and cold air will be sucked in all the cracks....  You will be trading a good condition, (smoking doors) for a not so good condition, (cold air being sucked in all the cracks)... 

Dave


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## smokin-aces

So are you saying that smoke coming around the doors is actually a desirable trait among smokers?

Also, what is a good way to reinforce a thin door to keep it true?

I have noticed that you like to draw your thoughts, it is very helpful.


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## daveomak

smokin-aces said:


> So are you saying that smoke coming around the doors is actually a desirable trait among smokers?
> 
> *It beats the alternative if it is just a little smoke.... lengthen the stack, 6 inches at a time, until smoke just trickles out... you can use thin wall stove pipe for that..*
> 
> Also, what is a good way to reinforce a thin door to keep it true?
> 
> *What is the thickness of the door ??  Cut ribs from 1/4" stock to the curvature of the cook chamber and plug weld the door to them...  *
> 
> I have noticed that you like to draw your thoughts, it is very helpful.
> 
> *I like pictures.... explains quite a bit that words can't describe very well..... *      Dave


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## smokin-aces

The thickness of the tank is a little less than 1/8". Maybe you could jump over to my buildup thread.... I have a few questions on there as well. I would appreciate it.


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