# Making Biltong



## wors

Hey all,

I'm making a really crude biltong box out of cardboard. If it works out and I like the results I'll make a much bigger biltong cabinet out of wood.

I've basically finished my crappy cardboard box. It is about 2.5' tall and 1.5' wide & deep. It has two large vents at the bottom where the air will come in and a single vent on the top that exhausts the air with the use of a 12v computer fan. I decided NOT to use a lightbulb for this prototype because our apartment is quite warm and dry (~50-55% humidity, ~40-45% humidity when I put the dehumidifier on), and I just didn't really want to complicate things.

NOTE: Next year I won't be in such a dry apartment and will likely be dealing with ~75-85% humidity. This is what I will be building the wooden cabinet for.

So my questions are:

1) What is the ideal temperature and humidity range for making biltong?

2) Is it ok to do this without the lightbulb?

3) When I make the bigger cabinet should I have: a: Just a fan, b: Just a lightbulb, c: both fan & lightbulb?

4) Whats your biltong chamber look like? I'd love it if you could post a photo. Do you make biltong in some other kind of curing chamber? Please post details.

Thanks.


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## daveomak

Humidity around 80% is perfect for dry meats...   you avoid the case hardening problem...   too much air flow can cause case hardening...   Thickness of strips is probably a big deal on how it dries...    
Without temp and humidity control you probably will have to do a few tests to determine what adjustments you will have to make...

You probably know all this...  this link has a heat source (light bulb) but doesn't discuss temps or humidity..     Near as I can tell, the important ingredient is the vinegar...  keeps food borne pathogens from multiplying...  and/or kills them, along with the salt...

http://africhef.com/Biltong-Recipe.html


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## mummel

Subbing to this thread. I can't wait to make my own biltong. Waiting for my basement to cool down over the fall. Where do you live wors? Sounds like your a Saffer.


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## dirtsailor2003

Give this thread a look:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/89039/biltong-box


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## wors

DaveOmak said:


> Humidity around 80% is perfect for dry meats... you avoid the case hardening problem... too much air flow can cause case hardening... Thickness of strips is probably a big deal on how it dries...
> Without temp and humidity control you probably will have to do a few tests to determine what adjustments you will have to make...
> 
> You probably know all this... this link has a heat source (light bulb) but doesn't discuss temps or humidity.. Near as I can tell, the important ingredient is the vinegar... keeps food borne pathogens from multiplying... and/or kills them, along with the salt...
> 
> http://africhef.com/Biltong-Recipe.html


While I don't doubt that 80% humidity is perfect for drying and curing meats I've always considered biltong to be a bit of an outlier in this regard. You only have to consider where it originates from to realize that this is a little different to it's European cousins (humidity levels in the Karoo this week are fluctuating between 34% and 57%).

So I find it a little tough to accept that 80% humidity is ideal for biltong. I've even had the pleasure of visiting a professional biltong making butchery and it was no way that it was 80% humidity in there. I just wish I was paying more attention at the time, I should have asked them.

Unfortunately all of the biltong making resources I've read make no mention of what the ideal conditions are for making biltong.

Thanks for the link though, I've read dozens of recipes but had not come across that one and it looks very helpful!

I've also read the other threads on this forum which are all helpful. In fact I've read dozens of experiences by different people and what I can gather is that no matter what you do it'll probably come out right! ... There seems to be a huge margin of error in the right conditions for making biltong.

However, the scientist in me wants to persue those ideal conditions and how I might be able to achieve them in a semi-serious home made cabinet.


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## dingo007

Wors said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I'm making a really crude biltong box out of cardboard. If it works out and I like the results I'll make a much bigger biltong cabinet out of wood.
> 
> I've basically finished my crappy cardboard box. It is about 2.5' tall and 1.5' wide & deep. It has two large vents at the bottom where the air will come in and a single vent on the top that exhausts the air with the use of a 12v computer fan. I decided NOT to use a lightbulb for this prototype because our apartment is quite warm and dry (~50-55% humidity, ~40-45% humidity when I put the dehumidifier on), and I just didn't really want to complicate things.
> 
> NOTE: Next year I won't be in such a dry apartment and will likely be dealing with ~75-85% humidity. This is what I will be building the wooden cabinet for.
> 
> So my questions are:
> 
> 1) What is the ideal temperature and humidity range for making biltong?
> 
> 2) Is it ok to do this without the lightbulb?
> 
> 3) When I make the bigger cabinet should I have: a: Just a fan, b: Just a lightbulb, c: both fan & lightbulb?
> 
> 4) Whats your biltong chamber look like? I'd love it if you could post a photo. Do you make biltong in some other kind of curing chamber? Please post details.
> 
> Thanks.


Both DaveOmak and DirtSailors links are great references. There are as many recipes/techniques for biltong as there are South Africans...And the level of dryness is also a varied opinion..some like it like leather..I like it a lot softer. You just got to make it and see. Initially, weigh each piece ( a pain in the arse I know) and sample one at 30% weightloss and see i you like it. If not let the rest dry longer untill you find the % loss/feel you like. Eventually you'll be able to feel when it's ready.

In answer to your questions...my humble opinions;

(1) For dry curing meat I use 70% 60F as a base reference..but as Dave indicated some larger cuts/diameter sausages start out at 80% and get dropped as time goes on. For biltong, as it has a small diameter, I think anything in the 60-80% RH range would be fine. Using the upper end of this range would take longer to dry.

(2) Some people go this route and deliver good Biltong. When I was using a biltong dedicated box I preferred the light bulb approach as it developed heat and convection. My concerns are that a fan might be to much airflow, however I've never tried it.

(3) I'd go light bulb.

(4) You already got it.

Biltong is pretty forgiving due to t's short time to dry. However I strongly recommend the use of Cure #1. I used to do it the traditional way..Vinegar, Salt, BP and Coriander...but since learning more about curing the risk isn't worth it. So i use cure now.

HTH and post pics.


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## wors

Thanks heaps for the replies Dingo, very helpful. I can't wait to taste the first batch :)


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## wors

mummel said:


> Subbing to this thread. I can't wait to make my own biltong. Waiting for my basement to cool down over the fall. Where do you live wors? Sounds like your a Saffer.


Missed your question on the first read sorry. I grew up and currently live in New Zealand but was born in South Africa and have been on a number of visits back. I've found some interesting info that I hope to condense and post this weekend. Watch this space.


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## mummel

Ahh I've always wanted to go to New Zealand!

Biltong study: http://www.wholesalegroup.com.au/Benefits of Eating Meat Products Dried at Lower Temperatures.pdf

Getaway Magazine article: http://www.getaway.co.za/food/recipes-food/how-to-make-droewors/


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## 5pmbbq

Wors said:


> So my questions are:
> 
> 1) What is the ideal temperature and humidity range for making biltong?
> 
> 2) Is it ok to do this without the lightbulb?
> 
> 3) When I make the bigger cabinet should I have: a: Just a fan, b: Just a lightbulb, c: both fan & lightbulb?
> 
> 4) Whats your biltong chamber look like? I'd love it if you could post a photo. Do you make biltong in some other kind of curing chamber? Please post details.
> 
> Thanks.


Hi there,

We made a homemade biltong box for my SA-born significant other. I don't know the 'ideal' temp / humidity range but I would imagine you can start with the study mummel posted. We use a 40 watt light bulb and a computer fan hooked up to a double dimmer switch so that we can control both heat and circulation at different times and I find that what the biltong needs will depend on the time of year for us.

Here is our box:












IMG_20150810_195801_edit.jpg



__ 5pmbbq
__ Sep 4, 2015






Good luck!


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## wors

mummel said:


> Ahh I've always wanted to go to New Zealand!
> 
> Biltong study: http://www.wholesalegroup.com.au/Benefits of Eating Meat Products Dried at Lower Temperatures.pdf
> 
> Getaway Magazine article: http://www.getaway.co.za/food/recipes-food/how-to-make-droewors/


Come on over! :)

And thanks for the links.


5pmBBQ said:


> Hi there,
> 
> We made a homemade biltong box for my SA-born significant other. I don't know the 'ideal' temp / humidity range but I would imagine you can start with the study mummel posted. We use a 40 watt light bulb and a computer fan hooked up to a double dimmer switch so that we can control both heat and circulation at different times and I find that what the biltong needs will depend on the time of year for us.
> 
> Here is our box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20150810_195801_edit.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ 5pmbbq
> __ Sep 4, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck!


Appreciate the photo, thanks looks really good! I like how thick the strips are. Most photos I see of DIY biltong are of super thin jerky like strips.


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## wors

Here are the results of my research. Most of what is here is from an 88 page "Literature Review of Microbiological Hazards Associated with Biltong". One hundred and seventeen research papers and reports were used in the review although biltong is not the direct topic of many of the studies as there is not that much material on biltong. It was a quite long and dense read so I've just bullet pointed the good bits. Most of it is copy and paste but I've edited a lot of it to make it more readable. It is important to note that the focus of this study is on the food safety aspect of making biltong and covers small scale commercial production but makes mention of home made biltong. I've even done the temperature conversions for the fine folk of America. I did this for myself but hopefully someone else finds it useful.

*THE PUNCH LINE* (for those not interested in the wall of text)
The ideal conditions for making biltong in a 6 day period:
- *Temperature: 35°C* (95°F). Commonly used range: 22-35°C (72-95°F)
- *Humidity: 30%*. Commonly used range: 30-50%
- *Air speed: 3 m/s*. Commonly used range: 2.5 to 3 m/s
- Target water activity for safety relative shelf stability 0.7 to 0.75 (Actual values of sold product vary greatly depending on consumer preference)
- The composition of biltong after drying is typically: moisture content 20-30%; salt 3-8%; pH 5.6-5.9; water activity 0.7 to 0.75.
- Nitrite is sometimes used as a color fixer only.

*HISTORY*
- Biltong's origins anecdotally stem from the Dutch who, whilst escaping from British rule in South Africa some 200 years ago, preserved meat by adding vinegar and spices and hung it from the back of ox wagons where it dried over 3 to 4 days.
- In its very simplest form, biltong has been spiced only with salt, black pepper and brown sugar (i.e. no vinegar).
- Traditionally in South Africa, drying of biltong was achieved by hanging the strips of meat on hooks and leaving them to ambient dry.
- Johannesburg Temps: Day Average(morning.min-afternoon.max) 9.9-22.4°C (50-72°F). Relative Humidity: Average(morning-afternoon) 69.9-40.5%
- Bloemfontein Temps: Day Average(morning.min-afternoon.max) 8.6-23.6°C (47-75°F). Relative Humidity: Average(morning-afternoon) 64.4-32.8%

*THE MEAT*
- Most muscles in the carcass may be used but the large ones are most suitable.
- Both fresh and thawed meats can be used
- The meat strips cut from intact muscles are up to 400 mm long and 25 to 50 mm thick.
- The water activity of raw meat is around 0.98.

*MARINADES*
- Acidic marinades should used be at 0-4ºC (32-39°F)
- The air for drying biltong should be heated to around 35ºC (95°F)
- Drying to a water activity of 0.7 to 0.75 is advisable. Weight loss of the meat should be a good indicator of water activity.
- The meat is generally held in a marinade for 18 to 24 hours, traditionally at ambient temperature, but nowadays, this storage is more likely to be at 4ºC (39°F).
- One study found that pathogens were reduced by marination in vinegar for at least 7 hours.

*SEASONING*
- The use of nitrate or nitrite, often in the form of saltpetre is mentioned frequently as a source of colour enhancement.
- Important to note that spices are also a common form of pathogen introduction. Use good quality spices which have been stored properly.

*DRYING*
- Few pathogenic microorganisms grow below a water activity (aw) of 0.90 and few microorganisms grow below aw = 0.75.
- Yeasts and moulds do not grow below a water activity of 0.60.
- Effective drying, to reduce water activity, relies on drying time and three inter-related process factors: air temperature, relative humidity, and speed.
- No microbial growth, or spore germination, was detected on biltong samples with a water activity of 0.7 or less. Allowing for an arbitrary safety margin, a water activity of 0.68 was regarded as the critical moisture content at, or below, which biltong could be kept for long periods.
- 35ºC (39°F) will enable a microbiologically stable product to be produced in around 6 days (144 hours). A lower air temperature would require a longer drying time and increase the microbiological hazard due to the slower drying rate.
- Data reported suggest an air speed around 2.5 to 3 m/s.
- Drying with air at 35ºC (39°F), 30% relative humidity and 3 m/s is suitable for making biltong within 6 days.
- Relative Humidity levels during drying process reported from other studies: 30-50%
- Temperatures during drying process reported from other studies: 22-35°C (72-95°F).
- The composition of biltong after drying is typically: moisture content (20 to 30%); salt (3 to 8%); pH (5.6 to 5.9); water activity (0.7 to 0.75).
- The use of weight loss during the drying of biltong could provide a useful indicator of water activity. Raw meat has a water content of around 75%. Reducing the weight of the meat by a factor between 3.75 and 2.5 during drying will produce a product with the required moisture content of around 20 to 30% and corresponding water activity around 0.7 to 0.75. In addition, the drying process should designed to decrease the water activity quickly to prevent microbial growth but not so quickly that case hardening occurs.

*STORAGE*
- No definitive shelf life for biltong was identified in the literature although “several months”, “very long” and “indefinite” were noted in the literature, all without the need for refrigeration.

*SAFETY*
- Many microflora identified and studied. No mention of _Clostridium_.
- Study catalogues all reported outbreaks of food borne illnesses relating to biltong, not a single case of botulism mentioned.
- The presence of organic acids, salt, and a lowered water activity achieved by drying are all controlling factors in the potential destruction of pathogens and also important in preventing microbial growth.
- The reduction in pathogen level increases as the water activity decreases and therefore it is important that water activity is reduced quickly. Growth studies have demonstrated that salt, presence of organic acids and spices are not in themselves inhibitory and therefore a hurdles approach to biltong manufacture is important.

*REFERENCES*

Burfoot, D., Everis, L., Mulvey, L., Wood, A., & Campden, R. B. (2010). Literature Review of Microbiological Hazards Associated with Biltong and Similar Dried Meat Products. Food Standard Agency, London, 87.

Naidoo, K., & Lindsay, D. (2010). Survival of Listeria monocytogenes, and enterotoxin-producing Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus pasteuri, during two types of biltong-manufacturing processes. Food control, 21(7), 1042-1050.

Taylor, M.B. (1976) Changes in microbial flora during biltong production. South African Food Review, 3(2) 120-121, 123.

*IMAGES*

Changes in moisture content, water activity, and salt content during the manufacture of biltong. Air temperature = 35ºC; relative humidity = 30%; speed = 3 m/s.













Graph01_zpsbqfpegxi.gif~original



__ wors
__ Sep 4, 2015






Changes in bacterial numbers during the manufacture of biltong. Air temperature = 35ºC; relative humidity = 30%; speed = 3 m/s













Graph02_zpsgxzewl6v.gif~original



__ wors
__ Sep 4, 2015


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## 5pmbbq

Wors said:


> Come on over! :)
> 
> And thanks for the links.
> 
> Appreciate the photo, thanks looks really good! I like how thick the strips are. Most photos I see of DIY biltong are of super thin jerky like strips.



We find that cutting it into logs before drying and then slicing it afterwards when it is still a little wet is a lot closer to the biltong we get in SA. 

Thanks for sharing your research, we might have to do some measuring out of curiousity. 

Let us know how your first batch comes out!


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## wors

Test Batch 01 going down:

Spices include:

- Coriander

- Salt

- Black Pepper

- Brown Sugar













IMG_2877.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015






I used Topside and cut it into relatively thick slices approximately 3cm thick.













IMG_2887.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015






Equal weight spices and marinade are combined then rubbed on the meat which is put in a ziplock bag in the fridge for 8 hours













IMG_2905.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015






The Biltong box, cost me next to nothing. Comprised of:

- Cardboard box

- Wooden dowels to hang the meat from

- Fly screen mesh to cover the vent holes

- A light socket with 60W bulb

- My thermometer just to check the temps (out of curiosity more than anything)













IMG_2907.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015


















IMG_2925.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015






Inside:













IMG_2847.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015






Meat! Now comes the hard part.













IMG_2936.JPG



__ wors
__ Sep 7, 2015


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## dingo007

Looks good mate!


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## dirtsailor2003

Will be hanging around for the results!


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## mummel

This is fantastic!  Keep us posted.


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## wors

This is at 9 days. About 60% weight loss. Perfect for my tastes not too wet, not too dry. Could do with a touch more salt but otherwise perfect:













IMG_0300_zpskqjgx71e.jpg~original



__ wors
__ Sep 14, 2015


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## chef jimmyj

DARN IT!!! My Wife just tossed out my MES 40 Box, similar size. Been sitting in the garage, minding it's own business for 3 years...
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






That set up and finished product looks great...JJ


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## dirtsailor2003

Looks great! Points!


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## mummel

This looks like the real deal.  Wow guy, well done.  Do you have a step by step guide?  I really have to try this ASAP?

Did you use any curing salt like this stuff?  I posted in the other biltong thread and guys recommended I use this:













91Pg0M8GM%2BL._SX522_.jpg



__ mummel
__ Sep 15, 2015


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## mummel

Actually I just read your data summary.  I was very surprised to see this:

_35ºC will enable a microbiologically stable product to be produced in around 6 days (144 hours). A lower air temperature would require a longer drying time and increase the microbiological hazard due to the slower drying rate._

That's really hot!  My neighbor makes this stuff and insists on doing it during the winter in his basement.  That's why I was going to wait until the winter but it makes sense, South Africa is a hot place.

So I dont know now.  I guess I will have to build a biltong box now that the summer is over?


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## mummel

I wonder if I could use my MES 40 as a biltong box?  It should be easy enough to snake a lightbulb through the chip loader.  I also have the Cabelas sausage hanger or could use a grate with some paper clips to hang my strips.  Mmmmm.

Yeah I think this could work.  I could put the lightbulb under the drip pan on the bottom left, and snake the cable through the chiploader on the bottom right. 

I would only need a light bulb socket, bulb, and some sort of a cord.  What about mesh for the MES.  Anyone ever done something like this?


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## mummel

Also, "Topside", is the the equivalent of Top Round here in the USA.  Does anyone know?  I know my neighbor uses London Broil, which I think is the Flank, but I guess you could use either no?

Costco sells a whole Top Round which I have wanted to test out forever.  $4 / lb?  Cant remember exactly.


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## wors

mummel said:


> This looks like the real deal.  Wow guy, well done.  Do you have a step by step guide?  I really have to try this ASAP?
> 
> Did you use any curing salt like this stuff?  I posted in the other biltong thread and guys recommended I use this:


No I don't use any curing salt. I have it at home because I make my own bacon but it is simply not needed for biltong.

The recipe I used is roughly as follows:

SPICE MIX:
- 1/4 Cup Ground Coriander
- 1.5 Tbsp Brown Sugar
- 1 Tbsp Salt
- 1 Tbst Coarse Ground Black Pepper

MARINADE:
- 2 Parts: Cider Vinegar
- 2 Parts: Malt Vinegar
- 1 Part: Worchestershire Sauce

METHOD:
- Topside Roast cut into 3cm thick strips weighing approximately 400g each
- For each 400g piece mix 18g spice mix with 18g marinade then rub over meat.
- Seal meat in ziplock bag and refrigerate for 7-24 hours.
- Remove from bag and dry.

NOTES:

It could do with more salt!!! I like salty biltong personally so will be adding more salt next time. I might use less Worchestershire Sauce as well... maybe.


> Actually I just read your data summary.  I was very surprised to see this:
> 
> _35ºC will enable a microbiologically stable product to be produced in around 6 days (144 hours). A lower air temperature would require a longer drying time and increase the microbiological hazard due to the slower drying rate._
> 
> That's really hot!  My neighbor makes this stuff and insists on doing it during the winter in his basement.  That's why I was going to wait until the winter but it makes sense, South Africa is a hot place.
> 
> So I dont know now.  I guess I will have to build a biltong box now that the summer is over?


That is quite warm (not hot though). The literature on small scale commercial production reports a range between 22-35°C (72-95°F) which is a huge range. I read one report that compared the flavor of biltong made at 25°C to biltong made at 45°C (there was a slight preference for the biltong made at 25°C).

All that can really be said about this is that there is that you can make biltong in a very wide range of temperatures. I'm sure people even make it at lower temperatures without issue.

For a microbiological hazard point of view the quicker you dry it the safer it'll be.

Also some people make it in the winter because in many places it's dryer in the winter and more humid in the summer which makes sense.


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## mummel

Awesome thanks Wors.  Im definitely going to follow your lead.  Looks like you nailed it.

Do you think I could use my MES as a biltong box?  I was taking a look at it last night.  I wonder if there would be enough ventilation with just a light bulb?  Would I need a fan too?

There isnt much space under my water pan to put a light bulb and a fan.  Also, I could snake the wire through the chip loader, but I would also need to cover it with mesh.

Not sure if it's the best option.  Have any guys used their MES as a jerky/biltong hanger?













image.jpg



__ mummel
__ Jul 1, 2015


















51%2BCFzT2v6L._SX522_.jpg



__ mummel
__ Jul 1, 2015


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## wors

I think it would work fine if you get enough ventilation. There is plenty of room in there. You could put a lamp and maybe a small computer fan to move the air about.


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## mummel

Wors!  So I did a 24 hour test in my garage (where my smoker will be stored over the winter).  Darn its pretty humid down there.  Range was 71%-78% RH, with temps ranged from 66F-68F.  I'm not sure that's ideal.

My guess is I would need a fan and a bulb, and the air would come in through my chip loader and leave my top vent.  But wouldn't the airflow be too much/too fast with a fan?  I suspect the air coming in through the chip loader will be too humid for the light bulb to dehumidify in time before the air leaves the top vent.

And if I eliminate the fan, I dont know if the bulb would provide enough airflow for drying and things may get rancid in there as the biltong wont dry in time.

Mmmmm, I dont know, my gut says I need more planning before I dive in.  I dont want to buy a fan, cables, sockets, bulbs etc if this wont work.  But what do you think.  Could it be done?  If so I'll run out and get the stuff I need this weekend!


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## tropics

mummel said:


> Wors!  So I did a 24 hour test in my garage (where my smoker will be stored over the winter).  Darn its pretty humid down there.  Range was 71%-78% RH, with temps ranged from 66F-68F.  I'm not sure that's ideal.
> 
> My guess is I would need a fan and a bulb, and the air would come in through my chip loader and leave my top vent.  But wouldn't the airflow be too much/too fast with a fan?  I suspect the air coming in through the chip loader will be too humid for the light bulb to dehumidify in time before the air leaves the top vent.
> 
> And if I eliminate the fan, I dont know if the bulb would provide enough airflow for drying and things may get rancid in there as the biltong wont dry in time.
> 
> Mmmmm, I dont know, my gut says I need more planning before I dive in.  I dont want to buy a fan, cables, sockets, bulbs etc if this wont work.  But what do you think.  Could it be done?  If so I'll run out and get the stuff I need this weekend!


You can use a computer fan check these links

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/172462/first-go-at-cheese

Here is a box I sit my MES 40 on

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/177393/keeping-the-amnps-lit

The wallwart


Richie


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## mummel

You dont even need an adapter and all that stuff.  Just buy a fan that plugs into an outlet :)













61usJsKu10L._SL1000_.jpg



__ mummel
__ Sep 18, 2015


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## mummel

But guys, as a first step, shall I get a light bulb and do a humidity and temperature check?  See if I can get my heat to 72-95°F and my RH to 30-50%?

And Wors just to confirm, those humidity figures are RH right?


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## wors

mummel said:


> But guys, as a first step, shall I get a light bulb and do a humidity and temperature check?  See if I can get my heat to 72-95°F and my RH to 30-50%?
> 
> And Wors just to confirm, those humidity figures are RH right?


Yeah if you can get your humidity levels down to 30-50% at that temp then you will be alright. But if you can't it might not work


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## mummel

Already ordered some stuff at Home Depot.  Lock and load!  I will report back next week if I have time to test things out this weekend.


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## mummel

Also, Im going to try a batch with Prague Powder #1 and one without.  I want to see if there is a diffs in taste.


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## wors

Awesome, keep us updated :)

Out of all the reading and research I did I found this to be the most interesting:

Traditionally in South Africa, drying of biltong was achieved by hanging the strips of meat on hooks and leaving them to ambient dry.
- Johannesburg Temps: Day Average(morning.min-afternoon.max) 9.9-22.4°C (50-72°F). Relative Humidity: Average(morning-afternoon) 69.9-40.5%
- Bloemfontein Temps: Day Average(morning.min-afternoon.max) 8.6-23.6°C (47-75°F). Relative Humidity: Average(morning-afternoon) 64.4-32.8%

If you can manage to replicate these conditions I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. The only thing you then need to worry about is simply have some fresh air circulate through. The higher heat and lower humidity recommend by the paper is simply to dry the meat faster for safety reasons.


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## mummel

Hey Wors!  So I did a test with a light bulb in my MES 40.  Looks like it may work!

Temp after 24 hours = 105F (41C)

Ambient temp = 67F (19C)

Relative humidity after 24 hours = 15%

Ambient relative humidity = 64%

It looks like the MES has decent insulation and is relatively air tight.  I cant believe a single light bulb can make such a diffs!  So I wonder - I should now probably add a fan to see if 1) I can drop the temps a little by say ~21F and 2) if a fan will up the relative humidity a bit by say ~25%.

I can also play around with my chip loader to see how the airflow will affect the RH and temps too (it was fully closed for this test but my vent was wide open).  But would you recommend trying a fan first?

I wonder though, as temps drop in my basement in the winter, how I will need to adjust, because if ambient temps are 2C, Im not sure a 60W light bulb will work.  I will need to figure it out.  It's probably going to be a PITA to calibrate the smoker depending on external temps.  One idea I had was getting a dimmer so I can control the output of the lightbulb and the fan.  What do you think? 













FullSizeRender(2).jpg



__ mummel
__ Sep 22, 2015






And for the energy nuts, a 60W light bulb burns 1.33 KWH in 24 hours (equivalent to 1.4 cents per week).  Irrelevant. 













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__ mummel
__ Sep 22, 2015


----------



## mummel

Wors I found a 120mm fan that does 52 CFM, and a 80mm found that does 26 CFM.  How the heck do I translate CFM into m/s?

I did some searching and found this calculator but have NO IDEA if this is accurate of if 2 inches is the right input variable (i.e. my vent and chip loader or what?).

But going by this, it looks like a 120mm fan is the way to go: http://www.calculatoredge.com/optical engg/air flow.htm













Airflow.png



__ mummel
__ Sep 22, 2015


----------



## daveomak

26 CFM...  if it blows through a duct that is 12" x 12"..  that duct is one square foot...   one linear foot of that duct makes for 1 cubic foot...  

So, it will blow through 26 linear feet in one minute....    3.28 feet = 1 meter....  26 / 3.28 = 7.93 meters per minute / 60 =  0.132 meters per second...

The whole thing is converting a volume measure to linear measure...


----------



## mummel

DaveOmak said:


> 26 CFM... if it blows through a duct that is 12" x 12".. that duct is one square foot... one linear foot of that duct makes for 1 cubic foot...
> 
> So, it will blow through 26 linear feet in one minute.... 3.28 feet = 1 meter.... 26 / 3.28 = 7.93 meters per minute / 60 = 0.132 meters per second...
> 
> The whole thing is converting a volume measure to linear measure...


Dave the recommended air flow is 2.5 to 3 m/s.  How does this reconcile with your 0.132 m/s number?


----------



## crankybuzzard

Just WOW!

Great write up, excellent advice, and very nice end result!

points for sure!


----------



## mummel

Here, check this link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835220046

It says this fan offers 64.34 CFM at 12V, with 2.3m/s air speed (scroll down for the specs).


----------



## daveomak

mummel said:


> DaveOmak said:
> 
> 
> 
> 26 CFM... if it blows through a duct that is 12" x 12".. that duct is one square foot... one linear foot of that duct makes for 1 cubic foot...
> 
> 
> So, it will blow through 26 linear feet in one minute.... 3.28 feet = 1 meter.... 26 / 3.28 = 7.93 meters per minute / 60 = 0.132 meters per second...
> 
> 
> The whole thing is converting a volume measure to linear measure...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave the recommended air flow is 2.5 to 3 m/s.  How does this reconcile with your 0.132 m/s number?
Click to expand...


That all depends on the size of the curing chamber...  

Directly out of the fan, if it's a 4" x 4" fan,  4 x 4 = 16 sq. in...    144 sq. in. per sq. ft......  144 / 16 = 9...   Soooooooo, in a 4" x 4"  area, the velocity would be 9x's higher than a 12x12 area....   or, 0.132 m/s x 9 = 1.12 m/s


You need to start with the size of the chamber, and work backwards to determine the fan size...


Any small amount of air flow would be good....   Too much and case hardening will happen....   if the meat is thick, say 3/4" thick, that could be a problem....  especially if the humidity is low....


----------



## mummel

Well what if I put the fan inside my MES, let it circulate, and then let air escape naturally through the top vent (vs putting a fan on top of the vent to pull the air out)?

The MES 40 dimensions are 40.1"H x 19.7"W x 25.6"D (so say 660 sq inches).  I dont know what the diameter of the top vent is (waiting to hear from the BT thread).  But lets say an inch to account for the damper. 

Soooo in this case, would you put a 80mm or a 120mm fan inside the smoker? (and keep in mind the fan will go under my water pan, so the air will be deflected somewhat.


----------



## daveomak

Screwed that up...


----------



## daveomak

mummel said:


> _*Well what if I put the fan inside my MES, let it circulate, and then let air escape naturally through the top vent*_ (vs putting a fan on top of the vent to pull the air out)?
> 
> The MES 40 dimensions are 40.1"H x 19.7"W x 25.6"D (so say 660 sq inches).  I dont know what the diameter of the top vent is (waiting to hear from the BT thread).  But lets say an inch to account for the damper.
> 
> Soooo in this case, would you put a 80mm or a 120mm fan inside the smoker? (and keep in mind the fan will go under my water pan, so the air will be deflected somewhat.




That would be good.... as the meat dried the humidity would go up... and the meat would gradually dry as the moisture left the meat... That adjustable speed fan looked like the good one to get... makes up for odd size chambers....


----------



## mummel

I ordered the 120mm AC fan.  Only has one fan speed.  I will report back once I've tested it.  Thanks for your help!


----------



## 5pmbbq

Wors said:


> This is at 9 days. About 60% weight loss. Perfect for my tastes not too wet, not too dry. Could do with a touch more salt but otherwise perfect:


Looks great! We haven't tried topside, we usually use london broil or brisket, depending on price. We will have to give that a shot.


----------



## mummel

Wors!  Thanks for the inspiration.  I decided to finally make some droewors.  Here's my thread:

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/235700/droewors-south-african-dried-sausage

I have a question about when to pull the meat.  I havent thought far enough in the process to target water activity etc.  I dont really understand it either haha.  But I assume I should weigh the meat before hand, and then pull it when it weighs 70-75% of the original weight?  Is this correct?

I forgot to weigh this batch.  I will check on it on day 3 and test it, see if it breaks with pressure etc.  But are my weight targets correct?  TY!

UPDATE: here, this part:

_- The use of weight loss during the drying of biltong could provide a useful indicator of water activity. Raw meat has a water content of around 75%. Reducing the weight of the meat by a factor between 3.75 and 2.5 during drying will produce a product with the required moisture content of around 20 to 30% and corresponding water activity around 0.7 to 0.75. In addition, the drying process should designed to decrease the water activity quickly to prevent microbial growth but not so quickly that case hardening occurs._

*If my stick weighs 100 grams before hanging, what should it weigh when it's ready?  TY TY!*


----------



## daveomak

mummel said:


> Wors!  Thanks for the inspiration.  I decided to finally make some droewors.  Here's my thread:
> http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/235700/droewors-south-african-dried-sausage
> 
> I have a question about when to pull the meat.  I havent thought far enough in the process to target water activity etc.  I dont really understand it either haha.  But I assume I should weigh the meat before hand, and then pull it when it weighs 70-75% of the original weight?  Is this correct?
> 
> I forgot to weigh this batch.  I will check on it on day 3 and test it, see if it breaks with pressure etc.  But are my weight targets correct?  TY!




When determining weight loss, don't forget to subtract any water weight, to get the correct initial starting weight of the meat...


----------



## mummel

DaveOmak said:


> When determining weight loss, don't forget to subtract any water weight, to get the correct initial starting weight of the meat...


Why not just factor that in, weigh the meat as its being hanged, and then figure out what the end weight should be to get a dry exterior/moist interior product?


----------



## crankybuzzard

mummel said:


> Why not just factor that in, weigh the meat as its being hanged, and then figure out what the end weight should be to get a dry exterior/moist interior product?


I weigh the meat "hanger" before putting it up with all of the meat on it, and then start weighing after 3 days.  When I get a 50% (+/-) weight loss, I know it's done the way I like it.  Now, for this to really work well, your strips all need to be pretty close in size and thickness.  I used to weigh each piece, but since I went to using eye of round, I can get my sizes pretty close and do a hanger weight.

I have some drying now that was at a 44% loss as of yesterday.  Should be done today if it goes like it has been, but, just like cooking a pork butt, stalls occur...


----------



## mummel

Cool thanks.  That sounds like a much easier method.  Weigh the whole lot, target 50% weight loss, done!


----------



## mummel

One thing I dont get is that I can hang meat for a week and it wont spoil??  My mind has a tough time wrapping around that idea.


----------



## crankybuzzard

mummel said:


> One thing I dont get is that I can hang meat for a week and it wont spoil??  My mind has a tough time wrapping around that idea.


I now use cure #1 with mine, but prior to this year, I never did.

I soak my meat in ACV for a minimum of 1 hour, depending upon thickness.  Allegedly, that is supposed to assist in preventing spoilage along with the salt.  

The one time I did have a problem was when my meat was accidentally exposed to direct sunlight while drying outdoors.  I moved the hanger to do something and didn't realize that it would be in direct sun in Texas, during Summer temps above 100, for 3 days!!!  I ended up with case hardening and it got really nasty....


mummel said:


> Cool thanks.  That sounds like a much easier method.  Weigh the whole lot, target 50% weight loss, done!


As for the 50% weight loss, that's how I like it.  Some like it wetter and others dryer.  Sample a small slice at several different loss percentages and keep notes about them to see what you prefer.


----------



## daveomak

mummel said:


> DaveOmak said:
> 
> 
> 
> When determining weight loss, don't forget to subtract any water weight, to get the correct initial starting weight of the meat...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just factor that in, weigh the meat as its being hanged, and then figure out what the end weight should be to get a dry exterior/moist interior product?
Click to expand...



If you wet brine the meat, or somehow add water to it.... you need the original meat weight before you do that....    Example...    If you add 10% water to 500 grams of meat, you do not start the % weight loss from 550 grams....  you start from the original meat weight of 500 grams...


----------



## crankybuzzard

DaveOmak said:


> If you wet brine the meat, or somehow add water to it.... you need the original meat weight before you do that....    Example...    If you add 10% water to 500 grams of meat, you do not start the % weight loss from 550 grams....  you start from the original meat weight of 500 grams...



I've never wet brined my biltong, but I'm wondering if the vinegar adds much, if any, weight.  However, after pulling the meat from the vinegar, it gets dried, and then coated with the curing/seasoning mix.  Once coated, it's placed on racks to cure for a minimum of 24, preferably 36, hours.  During that time, I lose a LOT of water. 













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__ crankybuzzard
__ Sep 28, 2015


















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__ crankybuzzard
__ Sep 28, 2015


















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__ crankybuzzard
__ Sep 28, 2015






I'll make another batch this coming weekend and do the following weight checks:

Weight pre vinegar
Weight after vinegar
Weight after dry cure
Weight after drying


----------



## dirtsailor2003

CrankyBuzzard said:


> I'll make another batch this coming weekend and do the following weight checks:
> 
> Weight pre vinegar
> Weight after vinegar
> Weight after dry cure
> Weight after drying



Man that sounds like a lot of math! I do math all day long at work. I think I'll stick to jerky!


----------



## crankybuzzard

dirtsailor2003 said:


> Man that sounds like a lot of math! I do math all day long at work. I think I'll stick to jerky!



Ha!  I'm an Excel Workbook FREAK!  Workbooks for cooking, knife angle grind calculations, heat treat formulas, ham radio antenna length calculators, and one for my beer making!

I have workbooks for all my sausage, jerky, biltong, etc.,  recipes configured to where I can plug in the weight of the meat and it calculates the spices and cure required.  

I'll just add a section for the weights and have a formula to do the math for me.  Simple, right?  :biggrin:


----------



## mummel

I think we're all a little bit obsessive in some way. That's why we're on this forum lol!


----------



## crankybuzzard

mummel said:


> I think we're all a little bit obsessive in some way. That's why we're on this forum lol!



Obsessed?  Me?  Never!

I wouldn't argue over being under by .1 gram of sage, ever!   Well, maybe once, but after a while, he saw it my way!  :yahoo:

Yeah, when it comes to my hobbies, I tend to try and accomplish the best there is to do.  That's why I may go several months without posting here; I've accomplished something and moved over to a challenge in another hobby.  

But there's always something else to make, create or do!  Can we ever really perfect a recipe?  Nope!

Crap, you're right, I'm obsessed!


----------



## daveomak

I may be obsessive... NAH !!!  I just want to know the absolute correct way to do stuff.....  then alter the method to fit my needs....    I feel the members should have that choice also....   

Know how to do it correctly then  do what ever suits your fancy....     

Beats the dickens out of telling members how to do it half-assed and wrong....


----------



## crankybuzzard

DaveOmak said:


> I may be obsessive... NAH !!!  I just want to know the absolute correct way to do stuff.....  then alter the method to fit my needs....    I feel the members should have that choice also....
> 
> Know how to do it correctly then  do what ever suits your fancy....
> 
> Beats the dickens out of telling members how to do it half-assed and wrong....



Dave, you olde phart, I gotta give points for that!

Excellent post!  You're correct too!!

:points:


----------



## mummel

Hey Cranky - do you have a link to your biltong recipe / method?  Thanks.


----------



## crankybuzzard

Sure do.  It's nothing too special, but the SA gent here at work likes it.

The below is for 1 kilogram of meat (or close to it)

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) to cover meat in a glass dish

24 grams kosher salt

10 grams toasted and ground corriander seed

5 grams brown sugar

2.25 grams cure #1

.75 gram garlic powder

.5 grams black pepper (fresh ground)

.5 grams white pepper (fresh ground)

Slice meat to the size you prefer.  I do pieces about 1" thick x 2.5" wide
Place into a glass dish and cover with ACV.  Let sit a minimum of one hour, I do 2 usually.
Once meat is finished in the ACV, remove and pat dry with paper towels.
Mix all dry ingredients together very well and press into the meat slices on all side.
Place meat slices on a rack above a sheet pan in the refigerator and allow seasonings/cure to work their magic for a minimum of 24 hours, I do 36 at least.  The pan or a LOT of paper towels are required!  There will be quite a bit of water pulled from the meat at this point.
After sitting in the frig for the alloted amount of time, remove the meat and place on hangers.  you can also tie a string around the pieces to hang with.  
Weigh each hanger of meat, or each piece of meat, and mark the weights for later reference.
If you're not using a biltong box, and want to hang to air dry, loosely wrap the meat hanger with 2 layers of cheese cloth to prevent critters from blowing your meat.  Yeah, I said that.  
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Allow the meat to dry until you have approximately 50% weight loss.  That can be anywhere from 3-10 days depending upon your location and style of drying.  DO NOT HANG IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT!

I plan to slice and package my biltong tonight, so I'll either post pics here or start another thread...


----------



## mummel

Awesome thanks.  Do you have to toast the coriander?  Or what if I buy coriander powder?  Not the same?


----------



## crankybuzzard

I don't care for the flavor of the jarred powder.

I take the amount of seeds in weight, add about 10% or so more, then put them into a HOT cast iron skillet.  Shake them all the time they are in the pan and wait until you get a noticeable color change.  I keep a little pile of untoasted seeds by the stove so I can see.  If you burn them, toss em, no good no mo!

Once the color change happens, remove from the heat and immediately transfer into a cool bowl to stop the cooking process.

You can also use the ground seeds untoasted as well.  But, once you toast some, you'll love it.

I grind with a coffee grinder, but a blender, or a morter and pestle work too.

Will this be your first go at biltong?


----------



## mummel

Yes this is my first attempt at biltong.  Really excited to see how it turns out.  I need to slice up my top round this evening.  I already bought a coffee grinder for my coriander seeds, but I was wondering if I could skip the roasting step or if it makes a big diffs?

My droewors will be ready hopefully tomorrow night!













BiltongandDroeWors_zpsa620852e.jpg



__ mummel
__ Sep 28, 2015


----------



## mummel

Crank, how long do the roasted seeds keep.  If I make a batch, can I store them in a jar, or do they lose their flavor over time?


----------



## crankybuzzard

I buy the seed 5# at a time! and I only toast a bit more than I think I'll need, so I haven't kept any after toasting.  

Un toasted works fine, and that's how I did it when I started.  It's just a personal taste thing.  

I just sliced all of mine up.  Sliced at around 1/4".  I'll bet I snacked on a 1/4 pound!













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__ crankybuzzard
__ Sep 29, 2015


















image.jpg



__ crankybuzzard
__ Sep 29, 2015


















image.jpg



__ crankybuzzard
__ Sep 29, 2015






This was dried to just over a 50% loss in weight using the recipe and procedure above.


----------



## mummel

Looks amazing.  I went to work on my top round from Costco yesterday.  In all honestly, I had no idea HTF to cut the thing.  I just hacked away to get some strips.  Some pieces were with the grain, others were not.  I will have to find a tutorial on how to cut up a top round.

Nice looking meat though!  Im pretty excited.  I have my droewors drying at the moment.  Because of Jaquin, its like 100% humidity outside.  Unlikely it will be dried soon and I am on vacation next week.  I may have to hang some biltong when I get back. 

Where do you buy your coriander seeds?  It looks like about $10 / lb on Amazon, which seems expensive.


----------



## mummel

Here's the piece I hacked up last night.  Im trying to find a tutorial on how to cut this baby.













IMG_3031.JPG



__ mummel
__ Sep 30, 2015


----------



## crankybuzzard

That's a big chunk of meat!  Grain going every which way.

I normally only do the top round roast.  With that piece, I'd separate it at each muscle connection and then slice each individually.

I buy my corriander seeds at the feed and seed store, I tell them I need cilantro seeds!  Yep, corriander is the seed of cilantro.  5 pounds cost me 20 bucks.  I planted my cilantro and use the rest for biltong and other recipes.

Check out this tutorial

http://www.beefinnovationsgroup.com/ValueCuts/round/data_pdf/top-cutting_guide.pdf


----------



## mummel

Cranky do you cut against or with the grain for biltong?


----------



## mummel

That PDF is really helpful, thanks.


----------



## crankybuzzard

I cut with the grain to cure and dry, and then slice across the grain to eat.


----------



## mummel

But I think that PDF is saying cut against the grain when making the steaks?  So I essentially need to do it in reverse for biltong?


----------



## crankybuzzard

mummel said:


> But I think that PDF is saying cut against the grain when making the steaks?  So I essentially need to do it in reverse for biltong?


Correct!  Makes for a very tender chew.


----------



## mummel

So I checked my droewors last night.  Looks like its been hanging at around ~85F with ~41% RH for 2 days.  It was definitely not dry.  I went to bend it and it felt really tough, and did not break.  Any idea how long this stuff is supposed to hang for at these conditions?


----------



## crankybuzzard

mummel said:


> So I checked my droewors last night.  Looks like its been hanging at around ~85F with ~41% RH for 2 days.  It was definitely not dry.  I went to bend it and it felt really tough, and did not break.  Any idea how long this stuff is supposed to hang for at these conditions?


No help here...  Once yours were complete, I was going to ask how it went and how you would recommend doing it.


----------



## mummel

VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/235700/droewors-south-african-dried-sausage#post_1469044


----------



## the munt

Wors said:


> Here are the results of my research. Most of what is here is from an 88 page "Literature Review of Microbiological Hazards Associated with Biltong". One hundred and seventeen research papers and reports were used in the review although biltong is not the direct topic of many of the studies as there is not that much material on biltong. It was a quite long and dense read so I've just bullet pointed the good bits. Most of it is copy and paste but I've edited a lot of it to make it more readable. It is important to note that the focus of this study is on the food safety aspect of making biltong and covers small scale commercial production but makes mention of home made biltong. I've even done the temperature conversions for the fine folk of America. I did this for myself but hopefully someone else finds it useful.
> 
> *THE PUNCH LINE* (for those not interested in the wall of text)
> The ideal conditions for making biltong in a 6 day period:
> - *Temperature: 35°C* (95°F). Commonly used range: 22-35°C (72-95°F)
> - *Humidity: 30%*. Commonly used range: 30-50%
> - *Air speed: 3 m/s*. Commonly used range: 2.5 to 3 m/s
> - Target water activity for safety relative shelf stability 0.7 to 0.75 (Actual values of sold product vary greatly depending on consumer preference)
> - The composition of biltong after drying is typically: moisture content 20-30%; salt 3-8%; pH 5.6-5.9; water activity 0.7 to 0.75.
> - Nitrite is sometimes used as a color fixer only.
> 
> *HISTORY*
> - Biltong's origins anecdotally stem from the Dutch who, whilst escaping from British rule in South Africa some 200 years ago, preserved meat by adding vinegar and spices and hung it from the back of ox wagons where it dried over 3 to 4 days.
> - In its very simplest form, biltong has been spiced only with salt, black pepper and brown sugar (i.e. no vinegar).
> - Traditionally in South Africa, drying of biltong was achieved by hanging the strips of meat on hooks and leaving them to ambient dry.
> - Johannesburg Temps: Day Average(morning.min-afternoon.max) 9.9-22.4°C (50-72°F). Relative Humidity: Average(morning-afternoon) 69.9-40.5%
> - Bloemfontein Temps: Day Average(morning.min-afternoon.max) 8.6-23.6°C (47-75°F). Relative Humidity: Average(morning-afternoon) 64.4-32.8%
> 
> *THE MEAT*
> - Most muscles in the carcass may be used but the large ones are most suitable.
> - Both fresh and thawed meats can be used
> - The meat strips cut from intact muscles are up to 400 mm long and 25 to 50 mm thick.
> - The water activity of raw meat is around 0.98.
> 
> *MARINADES*
> - Acidic marinades should used be at 0-4ºC (32-39°F)
> - The air for drying biltong should be heated to around 35ºC (95°F)
> - Drying to a water activity of 0.7 to 0.75 is advisable. Weight loss of the meat should be a good indicator of water activity.
> - The meat is generally held in a marinade for 18 to 24 hours, traditionally at ambient temperature, but nowadays, this storage is more likely to be at 4ºC (39°F).
> - One study found that pathogens were reduced by marination in vinegar for at least 7 hours.
> 
> *SEASONING*
> - The use of nitrate or nitrite, often in the form of saltpetre is mentioned frequently as a source of colour enhancement.
> - Important to note that spices are also a common form of pathogen introduction. Use good quality spices which have been stored properly.
> 
> *DRYING*
> - Few pathogenic microorganisms grow below a water activity (aw) of 0.90 and few microorganisms grow below aw = 0.75.
> - Yeasts and moulds do not grow below a water activity of 0.60.
> - Effective drying, to reduce water activity, relies on drying time and three inter-related process factors: air temperature, relative humidity, and speed.
> - No microbial growth, or spore germination, was detected on biltong samples with a water activity of 0.7 or less. Allowing for an arbitrary safety margin, a water activity of 0.68 was regarded as the critical moisture content at, or below, which biltong could be kept for long periods.
> - 35ºC (39°F) will enable a microbiologically stable product to be produced in around 6 days (144 hours). A lower air temperature would require a longer drying time and increase the microbiological hazard due to the slower drying rate.
> - Data reported suggest an air speed around 2.5 to 3 m/s.
> - Drying with air at 35ºC (39°F), 30% relative humidity and 3 m/s is suitable for making biltong within 6 days.
> - Relative Humidity levels during drying process reported from other studies: 30-50%
> - Temperatures during drying process reported from other studies: 22-35°C (72-95°F).
> - The composition of biltong after drying is typically: moisture content (20 to 30%); salt (3 to 8%); pH (5.6 to 5.9); water activity (0.7 to 0.75).
> - The use of weight loss during the drying of biltong could provide a useful indicator of water activity. Raw meat has a water content of around 75%. Reducing the weight of the meat by a factor between 3.75 and 2.5 during drying will produce a product with the required moisture content of around 20 to 30% and corresponding water activity around 0.7 to 0.75. In addition, the drying process should designed to decrease the water activity quickly to prevent microbial growth but not so quickly that case hardening occurs.
> 
> *STORAGE*
> - No definitive shelf life for biltong was identified in the literature although “several months”, “very long” and “indefinite” were noted in the literature, all without the need for refrigeration.
> 
> *SAFETY*
> - Many microflora identified and studied. No mention of _Clostridium_.
> - Study catalogues all reported outbreaks of food borne illnesses relating to biltong, not a single case of botulism mentioned.
> - The presence of organic acids, salt, and a lowered water activity achieved by drying are all controlling factors in the potential destruction of pathogens and also important in preventing microbial growth.
> - The reduction in pathogen level increases as the water activity decreases and therefore it is important that water activity is reduced quickly. Growth studies have demonstrated that salt, presence of organic acids and spices are not in themselves inhibitory and therefore a hurdles approach to biltong manufacture is important.
> 
> *REFERENCES*
> 
> Burfoot, D., Everis, L., Mulvey, L., Wood, A., & Campden, R. B. (2010). Literature Review of Microbiological Hazards Associated with Biltong and Similar Dried Meat Products. Food Standard Agency, London, 87.
> 
> Naidoo, K., & Lindsay, D. (2010). Survival of Listeria monocytogenes, and enterotoxin-producing Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus pasteuri, during two types of biltong-manufacturing processes. Food control, 21(7), 1042-1050.
> 
> Taylor, M.B. (1976) Changes in microbial flora during biltong production. South African Food Review, 3(2) 120-121, 123.
> 
> *IMAGES*
> 
> Changes in moisture content, water activity, and salt content during the manufacture of biltong. Air temperature = 35ºC; relative humidity = 30%; speed = 3 m/s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Graph01_zpsbqfpegxi.gif~original
> 
> 
> 
> __ wors
> __ Sep 4, 2015
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> Changes in bacterial numbers during the manufacture of biltong. Air temperature = 35ºC; relative humidity = 30%; speed = 3 m/s
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> Graph02_zpsgxzewl6v.gif~original
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> __ wors
> __ Sep 4, 2015


That is great information!

And thank you for posting, I keep reading about safe conditions, temps humidity etc... and they are always way off what I do.

It's great to see the truth about how Biltong has been made typically, the true hot temp ranges and fluctuating humidity, as this is more realistic and goes to show it's the Vinegar that keeps the bacteria at bay, not the conditions!


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## the munt

First batch with the new box is on.. 4.5kg of Silverside.













20170124_050525.jpg



__ the munt
__ Jan 23, 2017


















20170124_050725.jpg



__ the munt
__ Jan 23, 2017






Here's hoping it turns out good and the setup works well.


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