# New - Oklahoma Joe's Highland Smoker



## fastback

Hey guys -

I feel really fortunate that I was properly able to research and read many forum posts prior to my first smoker purchase.

I have an old, original Traeger that's been bulletproof in use for many years, but I recently battled with it when cooking a whole packer and a few pork shoulders. Even with the digital temp control and fiddling with the 'P Settings'  I couldn't get good, consistent temps throughout my cook. No issues with burgers & steaks, but low & slow wasn't happening.

That's when my research on a new smoker started. The plan was, and still is to sell the Traeger to fund the new purchase so funds out of pocket will be minimal.

Looking in the $500 range I found only a few models that looked like they would work well. The OK Joe's is one that kept popping up on forums at under the $500 price point and seemed to perform well with some easy modifications.

Wal Mart has these units regularly priced at $268 which seemed fair, but I'd never seen one of these in person. Last Saturday I drove down to check one out in person. I was lucky in more than one way... They not only had a display unit setup, but they were closing them out at a further discounted price. The display unit was the last one in stock and I had them pull it down and wheel it up front for me. They even partially disassembled it and loaded me up after checking out.

Anyway - I knew what was in front of me so I started collecting the misc. parts and pieces I'd need to help this smoker morph into the lean, mean, cooking machine I know it will be.

Sealed exhaust pipe & joint between firebox & cooking chamber
Built up a basket for briquettes and wood
Added some sheet metal to reduce the intake from the firebox
A friend built & just dropped off the tuning\convection plate - an unexpected gift!
Extended exhaust down to the cooking surface
Added conduit below cooking surface for temp probes to pass-thru
I have a pair of 2-inch Tel-Tru's on the way for the left & right side of the pit. Holes are drilled and I'm just waiting on the parts.

The larger 3-inch stock thermometer that will go back in the top-left factory hole was in the house - it just nailed the boiling water temp test so I figure I'll drop it back in the hole (even though it's not the best placement to gather temp info from...)

Once everything rolls in I'll get it seasoned and tested out. I never fired the unit stock, and expect I'll still have some tuning to do.

I believe this is a fantastic head start though.

Enough with my rambling - photos below.













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## smokeburns

Wow! This looks like I'm looking at mine! I have the exact same model. I ordered from site to store at Walmart. I like the tuning plates you got . did you buy those or make them yourself? Check out my pictures on my profile. You will be surprised at the similarities .  And where did you get the expanded metal for your basket? I'm looking to make one myself.


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## fastback

The tuning plate was made by a friend and he just dropped it off today.

I sent him photos and measurements on the off chance he could find some scrap at his work.

Apparently he had everything to bend and punch the holes as well as having the scrap avaiable.

This plate ended up being 16.25 inches deep and 22 inches long. It rests solidly against the bottom\sides and just under a pair of bolts that hold on the fire box.

How consistent the temps will be is still up in the air - I'm hoping for the best.

The expanded metal was an off-the-shelf buy from Home Depot. I was expecting to spend some cash on the upgrades and at $20 it was a simple decision.

I was able to use snips, pliers, and a hammer to make the cuts and tap it into shape. There's one video out there that I've seen, as well as a detailed post that outlines the cuts and bends.

It's not tough at all and it may take you all of 20 minutes to complete. Here's a link to the tutorial I used.


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## smokeburns

Very nice. I checked it out. Going to do that this week. Now since we ave the same model , did you use the same dimensions as he used on the link to fit the fire pit ?


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## oldschoolbbq

Hello and welcome , fastback . Hope you enjoy our Forum . Lots of great stuff here and folks too . We are always happy to share .

Have a nice smoker , are you a Charcoal man or Wood 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






Have fun and . . .


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## 5oclocksomewher

That's a beauty.  Great job on the mods.  Looks like a lot of nice smokes are in your future.  Good Luck.     :sausage::yahoo:


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## remmy700p

Looks great!  If I'd make any suggestions it would be to open up the inlet to the cook chamber more. It's kinda closed off and you're looking for better heat flow.

If I asked your buddy to make me one of those diffuser plates, what would he charge me shipped to So Cal??


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## fastback

Remmy700P said:


> Looks great!  If I'd make any suggestions it would be to open up the inlet to the cook chamber more. It's kinda closed off and you're looking for better heat flow.
> 
> If I asked your buddy to make me one of those diffuser plates, what would he charge me shipped to So Cal??


The cost of the units online I've seen were fairly high - that's why I was hoping to get something made local

I'd be happy to ask him & put you two in touch if it sounds like he can help out at a fair cost.

As for the intake baffle... It may need to be bent a little, I agree. I figure I can just add to the existing bend (highlighted) if I need to.

The plate is 22 gauge so it'll move pretty easy even when installed.













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oldschoolbbq said:


> ...are you a Charcoal man or Wood


Up to this point I've kept the charcoal in the Weber and the wood (pellets) in the Traeger.

I'm sure I'll try both on various future smokes, and it sounds like mixing wood with charcoal is a good all-around way to add smoke flavor and keep the burn times high.


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## remmy700p

fastback said:


> I'd be happy to ask him & put you two in touch if it sounds like he can help out at a fair cost.


I'd appreciate that!


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## fastback

Smokeburns said:


> Very nice. I checked it out. Going to do that this week. Now since we ave the same model , did you use the same dimensions as he used on the link to fit the fire pit ?


Yes. I purchased the same sheet of metal referenced in the thread. I made the same cuts and bends but secured it together differently.

The finished charcoal basket wasn't perfectly square - it fits in my fire box fine one way but not the other.

It's not a super tight fit though, it goes in fine and I'm not anticipating any issues.

Is there a spare parts vendor for these smokers? That was one item I didn't get with my unit was the directions.

I ordered two 2 inch thermometers for my unit that I'll mount near food level so I was thinking I'd plug both threaded thermometer holes up above... I wanted to look into grabbing another plug.


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## fastback

Planning to test everything out today and get this unit seasoned. My 2 inch therms came in, as did a 1/2 inch gasket kit for the cooker lid.

When I built the baffle to limit the intake from the fire box I estimated the restriction based on a calculation made when I used an on-line smoker calculator.

This tool provides a lot of info once you plug in your existing cooker and fire box sizes.  The tool suggested 26.5 sq inches (or slightly more) area for the heat intake.

I measured my opening again last night and it was close to 9x3  (9.5 at the top and 8.5 at the bottom of the curve...)

We'll see how it does today I guess. The numbers match up and if I need more air & heat I'll add it.


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## grillmonkey

Are you going to boil test your therms? Did you seal the lid?


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## fastback

Grillmonkey said:


> Are you going to boil test your therms? Did you seal the lid?


Yep, I did both. All therms came up at 210 and the cook chamber lid got a new high heat 1/2 x1/8 gasket installed yesterday


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## grillmonkey

I have an ECB (electric mod) and an offset smoker similar to the Smokey Joe. You just can't beat the offset for flavor and texture of the meat. I don't know why it's different, but it is. I started out using mostly charcoal with chunks for flavor, but now I just use 1/2 can of charcoal to start my splits then use wood only. Seems like wood always comes out perfectly smoked every time, as long as you're getting TBS.


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## smokeburns

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Finally  Success with the IQ 110.  My BB ribs came out the best yet. As able to keep temps at 240 for the whole 5.5 hour smoke. It turns out my baffle was covering too much of the opening so I adjusted it by raising baffle to where it just closed off .25 of the opening instead of .5. I also removed one diffuser plate and evenly spreads the rest of them. I also constructed a charcoal basket from that linc , and I was so amazed!! I did my entire smoke off one basket full. With a mixture of royal oak and apple wood chunks with a couple of of hickory chunks mixed in.  Also was able to try out my thermoworks pocket pen I decided to get instead of the thermopop. I checked it out in boiling water , got 212 in exactly 4 seconds. Very impressive for $16.


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## fastback

I got things fired up today and it was nice to see this unit in action.

A full basket of Kingsford Blue and a volcano 1/2 full of burning charcoal got things started.

It took about 25 minutes to get to 250F, and with a couple of splits it hit 400F about 15 minutes later.

I kept it at 350-450 for a few hours and then let it coast for a few hours as the fire box burned out.

The temps across the cooking chamber were very good. The right side would spike when fresh wood was burning but it evened out to +/- 10 degrees.

Since the unit was hot and we had no dinner plans I grabbed some pork back ribs and got them started about 1pm.

I went with the 3-2-1 method and when I was pulling the rib racks out of the foil at 5 hrs they were falling apart on me.

I coated all of them with some spicy sauce and butcher block black pepper and let them go for another 30 minutes.

My dad & wife were both amazed at how good these turned out. Soft, juicy, and the pockets of fat across all three racks were so minimal people even commented on how little fat there was.

Overall... a great end to the weekend and a successful trial run of the new smoker.

I'll try and get a shot or two posted - as many of you know, the photos may not do the cook justice...


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## smokeburns

Congrats on your  1st smoke. Glad everything was an success . And thank you or that linc on charcoal basket. Worked awesome for me!


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## grillmonkey

You know you did your mods right when you can crank it up over 400 degrees.


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## fastback

I noticed a few new threads from guys who were working on this same unit.

Just poking the thread in case suggestions documented here may help out...


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## todd405

I recently purchased this smoker. I have sealed it up and I have some Lavalock coming soon for the doors. 

What kind of metal do you suggest for the plating on the bottom for distributing the heat?


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## lsujeepguy

I found some 1/8" metal here at my shop. Will that be thick enough for the diverter and tuning plate?


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## burlesonbill

Fastback - Cool topic and great details and pics! I just picked-up my OK Joe's Highland from Wally World yesterday and am getting my list together for mods. That tuning/convection plate is the bomb dude! Did your friend ever get back to you with a price for something like that? I would definitely be interested in getting one to Tejas. If he isn't interested, then a couple of questions: How thick is the metal he used? How exactly do you use it to fine tune the process? Slide it to tune the dispersal or just leave it in place?

As to sealing the thing, I have the 1/2" by 1/8" gasket material on my list. What about the red sealant that you used for the joins and seams? What particular product is that, and I assume that its high heat rated? I already picked-up a 2nd thermometer for the available fitting on the top, so I now have left and right gauges, but still up top. Do you feel that the additional gauges at surface level add that much to the process for an average smokeaholic?

I'm really looking forward to using mine and trying out some of my old recipes on the new platform. I do all of the usual pork, beef, chicken and turkey and also do a couple of more esoteric items like smoked fresh-caught fish and smoked chicken livers for a smoky paté and some smoked veggies. My Son also makes some homemade venison and pork sausage that I want to smoke.

Please keep adding tips and tricks, they are much appreciated.

Bill Mac in Tejas

aka "burlesonbill"


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## todd405

So I was thinking about putting some sheet metal in the bottom of my smoker to distribute the heat. Any suggestions on the type of metal you guys are using?


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## fastback

burlesonbill said:


> Fastback - Cool topic and great details and pics! I just picked-up my OK Joe's Highland from Wally World yesterday and am getting my list together for mods. That tuning/convection plate is the bomb dude! Did your friend ever get back to you with a price for something like that? I would definitely be interested in getting one to Tejas. If he isn't interested, then a couple of questions: How thick is the metal he used? How exactly do you use it to fine tune the process? Slide it to tune the dispersal or just leave it in place?
> 
> As to sealing the thing, I have the 1/2" by 1/8" gasket material on my list. What about the red sealant that you used for the joins and seams? What particular product is that, and I assume that its high heat rated? I already picked-up a 2nd thermometer for the available fitting on the top, so I now have left and right gauges, but still up top. Do you feel that the additional gauges at surface level add that much to the process for an average smokeaholic?
> 
> I'm really looking forward to using mine and trying out some of my old recipes on the new platform. I do all of the usual pork, beef, chicken and turkey and also do a couple of more esoteric items like smoked fresh-caught fish and smoked chicken livers for a smoky paté and some smoked veggies. My Son also makes some homemade venison and pork sausage that I want to smoke.
> 
> Please keep adding tips and tricks, they are much appreciated.
> 
> Bill Mac in Tejas
> 
> aka "burlesonbill"


My friend that build me the heat plate is no longer working at the same place, so no access to materials and tools... The sheet he built me is a little thicker than 1/8 inch aluminum. Stainless would have been nice but this one is working out just fine. My plate has a bend in it nearest the firebox and it sits flush against the right side of the cooking chamber - there is no gap on the right side and all heat is forced under the plate and down the cooking chamber as it enters from the firebox.

It's not perfect, but a 10F degree differential between either side for me is very manageable.

The red sealant I used was high-heat Permatex. I disassembled the entire cooker and gooped it on every joint where heat & smoke could escape. It's holding up better than the lava lock gasket material I purchased for the firebox and cook chamber lids. Looks like I'll be buying something similar and different to replace those seals this year.

The top thermometers are nice to have, but consistently run 20F hotter than the gages I placed at food/grate level - which is the air temp I mostly use when setting the dampers. If I ever add a shelf to my unit the top therms will hold more value when cooking.

I've found this unit turns out a great meal, time after time. I have a few others for grilling and cooking, but for the serious smoke and long cooks this is my favorite.


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## thood

I have a question, about sealing the firebox on the OKJ Highlander.   I first tried the felt gasket but it was burning out in spots during my initial run.  The temps held good but smoke was escaping out of some spots on the cover.  I scraped off the felt and put a bead of hi-temp silicone gasket sealer around it.  But the lid doesn't fit tight against the silicone.  What's the right way to apply the gasket material to get an even seal?  

Also another question, how important is it to seal the exhaust tube?  At that point the heat and smoke has already made its way through the chamber.  Other than the looks what does it matter if some of the smoke and heat escapes though the joint instead of out the end?  

Thanks to everyone on this forum for sharing their ideas.  It made things easy to follow to modify mr smoker. 

Tony


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## adamstonad

Here's a mod video that I made. Check it out.


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## valleypoboy

THood said:


> I have a question, about sealing the firebox on the OKJ Highlander.   I first tried the felt gasket but it was burning out in spots during my initial run.  The temps held good but smoke was escaping out of some spots on the cover.  I scraped off the felt and put a bead of hi-temp silicone gasket sealer around it.  But the lid doesn't fit tight against the silicone.  What's the right way to apply the gasket material to get an even seal?
> 
> 
> Also another question, how important is it to seal the exhaust tube?  At that point the heat and smoke has already made its way through the chamber.  Other than the looks what does it matter if some of the smoke and heat escapes though the joint instead of out the end?
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone on this forum for sharing their ideas.  It made things easy to follow to modify mr smoker.
> 
> 
> Tony



For applying silicone sealant to a door there's a few methods I read about.  One is to tape one side then apply vaseline (though I think any cooking oil or grease or lard would work just as well) and clean the other side.  Apply the silicone to the clean side then close the door.  Let the silicone cure before you open it back up.  Once cured, open the door and remove the tape, you should now be able to close the door and it should seal tight.  If you use vaseline, you'll probably want to clean that off the silicone now.
I see what you're saying about the exhaust tube leaking, it should really have very little effect.  My thought though is that the better you seal the entire unit up the better you can control temperature.


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## thood

Thanks for the input.  That actually sounds like it might work.   Although I did my first long smoke last weekend using the copper silicone on the firebox and it still burned out.   I've ordered some insulation rope for a woodstove and I'm going to try that.


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## coyoteq

Did you make a diffuser plate and basket? Do you know the dimensions you used?


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## smokeburns

In regards to charcoal basket there is a great thread on here called the 20/20 basket. And it fits my Oklahoma joe perfect. Only thing was that I used a grinder with metal cutting blade to cut my expanded metal rather than tin snips shown on the step by step illustration.


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## smokeburns

THood said:


> Thanks for the input.  That actually sounds like it might work.   Although I did my first long smoke last weekend using the copper silicone on the firebox and it still burned out.   I've ordered some insulation rope for a woodstove and I'm going to try that.


The insulation fire rope works great. I just bought some from Amazon last weekend with the high temperature cement adhesive. NO MORE LEAKS,!!!


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## coyoteq

I BOUGHT THE COPPER HIGH TEMP SILICONE BUT HAVE YET TO USE IT, WAITING FOR A FRIEND TO MAKE MY CONVECTION/DIFFUSER PLATE. ARE YOU SAYING THE COPPER SILICONE DOESN'T WORK??? if SO I WILL TAKE IT BACK  AND GET THE ROPE.

COYOTE'Q'


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## thood

Yeah even the copper silicone RTV didn't work for me.  I think it said it was good for 700*F but the firebox gets hotter than that.  And the RTV just kind of melted and peeled.  More bad news, the 1/2" fireplace rope was way too big around.  The lid on the box wouldn't shut with that rope around it.  Another FAIL!  Now I'm back to the original felt material. It worked fairly well except in a couple of hot spots, which I think I've figured out by tapping and shaping the metal around the opening of the door.  

Still looking for some input from those guys who have figured this out.  Send some pics!  (After the cookin).


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## valleypoboy

coyoteQ said:


> Did you make a diffuser plate and basket? Do you know the dimensions you used?



The basket can be made pretty easy from expanded steel.  Look for a big 24"x24" cut of it at your local home depot or lowes.  Mine came with cardboard around it showing pictures of it being used as a BBQ grate and a screen door protector.  I think I found it in the section where they sell all the other steel rods and plates, but it was pretty well hidden.  I measured out 12"x12" in the center then cut the corners and folded up the sides, luckily I made one side closer to 11" because 12" wide would not fit through the fire box door.  I also cut 1 ring off the top all the way around thinking I wanted it lower so I could still fit the cooking grate into the fire box.  So mine is 12"x11" and about 5" tall.  Once I placed it I realized how low it sits and wanted to try to lift it.  After thinking about several other more complicated ways I realized by turning the included bottom grate 90* the basket sits exactly where I want it.
I made a diffuser this weekend out of a 12"x18" plate steel.  Thin stuff from home depot.  I cut about 2" from the 18" side and it fits very nicely about 3" below the grilling surface.  It did NOT help my heat difference from side to side side though.  I was getting around 100* difference from left to right.  Back to the drawing board for me.



Smokeburns said:


> In regards to charcoal basket there is a great thread on here called the 20/20 basket. And it fits my Oklahoma joe perfect. Only thing was that I used a grinder with metal cutting blade to cut my expanded metal rather than tin snips shown on the step by step illustration.



I read about using snips, but I too used a grinder with a cut off wheel.



THood said:


> Yeah even the copper silicone RTV didn't work for me.  I think it said it was good for 700*F but the firebox gets hotter than that.  And the RTV just kind of melted and peeled.  More bad news, the 1/2" fireplace rope was way too big around.  The lid on the box wouldn't shut with that rope around it.  Another FAIL!  Now I'm back to the original felt material. It worked fairly well except in a couple of hot spots, which I think I've figured out by tapping and shaping the metal around the opening of the door.
> 
> 
> Still looking for some input from those guys who have figured this out.  Send some pics!  (After the cookin).



Is it only the door RTV that failed?  Do you have RTV between the FB and CC?  Did it fail also?  Also, did you seal between top and bottom halves of your FB?  How is that RTV holding up?
I have not sealed up either door yet, but I used orange RTV in the other locations and I have no leaks in any of those locations.

Here are some pictures of my basket and the box I made to bring the exhaust down to the grill:


























The exhaust box looks a lot nicer now, I washed it, scrubbed out the rust, coated it in oil and baked the oil in (same way one would season a cast iron pan).


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## smokeburns

That's kick butt! I used a B vent elbow. But I like that Steele box concept better


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## coyoteq

I have a friend building me a diffuser plate and a basket, valleypoboy you say your diffuser plate didn't work! Did you make one with graduated holes that get larger away from the firebox? And did you cover up the top of the hole between the Firebox and cooking chamber to make the heat inlet smaller and force it down under the diffuser plate. Has anyone else used the copper high temp RTV and had problems like THOOD, I bought that kind but haven't used it yet, wondering if I should use the red/orange high temp, it says good to 600 degrees and the Copper is rated for 700 degrees so something doesn't make sense.


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## thood

Yes I did use the copper RTV between the two halves of the firebox and the connection to the smoke chamber.  No problems there.  But sealing the cover door seems to be the problem.  Neither of the hi temp RTV's held up at all on the door.  I don't have a probe that goes higher than 600*F but I'm sure that the heat under that cover lid is much higher than 700*F.  I wanted to try the woodstove rope but the 1/2" was way too thick to let the door close and seal.   So I'm back to the felt for now.  But I have ordered some 1/4" graphite rope and that's my next fix.  I'll let you know how that comes out.  

Regarding the diffuser plate, I took a different route from a video I saw on YouTube.  Instead of a single plate with holes, I used 4 sheets of 5" wide x 15" long that you can simply space out the air gaps by placement of each of the sheets.   Smaller gaps toward the firebox gradually widening toward the chimney.  I also closed up almost 50% of the opening from the firebox to the smoke chamber with an adjustable "flapper" so I can control the amount of heat going into the smoke chamber.  This system works well.  I have 4 thermostats upper and grate level front and back and I can balance the total heat in the cook area within 10*F front to back.  I'll try and post some pics later.


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## coyoteq

Thanks for the info, would like to see your adjustable plate from the FB to CC.

Coyote'Q'


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## smokeburns

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This is the fire sealant I used for my Oklahoma joe and this has worked great! As for door seals on pit and smoke chamber I did have the self adhesive felt but it has deteriorated over time so I have replaced it with the fire rope you discussed. And ran into the problem of door not wanting to shut tight. I went to Amazon and ordered some latches and retrofitted them on fire pit and smoker. And so far I have done two smokes and my seal is TIGHT, not even a peek of smoke. Only where I'm getting leeks is from a tiny hole I had drilled to run my IQ 110 pit master and Maverick wires through. But that's ok. I will send picture of the smoker latches installed.


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## smokeburns

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__ Apr 15, 2015






As you can see had to do modification to smoke box by putting a piece of angle on side to mount the latches. As for diffuser plates. I used ceramic tile and cut it in 5" pieces and spread them out through the length of chamber. It takes awhile for these to heat up. But once they get warm they they tend to hold heat well. Great for long smokes!












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__ Apr 15, 2015


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## valleypoboy

Smokeburns said:


> That's kick butt! I used a B vent elbow. But I like that Steele box concept better



I figured with it designed like this, I could save space on my grilling surface, since it only comes out 3" from the inside wall.  I couldn't tell you it works better or worse than a the common 90* vent elbow.



coyoteQ said:


> I have a friend building me a diffuser plate and a basket, valleypoboy you say your diffuser plate didn't work! Did you make one with graduated holes that get larger away from the firebox? And did you cover up the top of the hole between the Firebox and cooking chamber to make the heat inlet smaller and force it down under the diffuser plate. Has anyone else used the copper high temp RTV and had problems like THOOD, I bought that kind but haven't used it yet, wondering if I should use the red/orange high temp, it says good to 600 degrees and the Copper is rated for 700 degrees so something doesn't make sense.



My diffuser right now is thin sheet steel approximately 16" x 12".  I did bend it up on about a 45* angle for the last few inches and it sits perfect, meeting up with the right side wall of the CC just above the FB hole and just below the 2 bolts that hold the FB and CC together.  It does not have any holes in it right now and left NO gap between it and the CC wall.  It sits flush, but it is NOT bolted in.

I have nothing on mine right now for sealing the top lids.  Mine has several areas where some smoke gets through, but I've been hesitant to seal it.  I did a temporary seal on the side door of the FB... I just folded aluminum foil down to about a 2" to 3" wide strip and folded it over edge of the door all the way around then closed the door.  It doesn't look great, but it sealed the heck out of the door and has stood up to 3 cooks so far.  If I could find an adhesive that could take the heat, I could do the same for the 2 top doors, but keep it nearly invisible because I'd just be covering the inside lip.


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## thood

Finally got around to getting some pics posted. 













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Outside pic with 4 thermos to monitor heat at the grill plate and the top of the chamber, and front to back. 













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The wire basket bent from a single 24 x 24 sheet, bent corners, no welding...as described in this forum.  (Thanks)













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Inside the firebox, coal basket showing the opening with the variable damper to the smoke chamber (wide open).













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Instead of the diffuser plate with holes, I used this method.  Much less expensive, and easily adjustable.  Seems to work really good, can balance out the heat flow from end to end within 10*F.













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The deflector plate covering the variable damper and directing the heat in the firebox to the smoke chamber.













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Variable damper plate.  Pic from the smoke chamber side.













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Variable damper plate.  (pic from the firebox side)













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__ Apr 23, 2015






Variable damper plate with the damper flapper closed almost completely, except for about an inch at the bottom.  (pic from smoke chamber side)

More pics to come on the firebox door as I work through that adventure.  As you can see from these other pics, I have sealed everything with the copper RTV gasket material and it's worked ok everywhere except the firebox door.   I used felt on the smoke chamber door and it seals completely, no smoke coming out that door.  Right now, I've got felt again on the firebox door but I'm sure it will burn out during the next fire.  I've got some 1/4" wood stove graphite rope to try next time.  Pics once I get there.  I've also adapted a simple furnace fan to fit my firebox air inlet so I can build a fire really quickly, and re-fire if the heat drops too low.  Kind of a poor mans pit fan, without the automation.  The fan was a throw away and the vent tube material was about $3.  Works like a champ.


----------



## remmy700p

Very nice mods.

Q: Can you explain what the "variable damper" would be used for?


----------



## valleypoboy

THood,

Have any pictures of your furnace fan adapter?


----------



## thood

The variable damper is just another way of controlling how much heat gets from the firebox into the smoke chamber.  There seemed to be a lot of discussion about how much area to block off from the firebox to the cook chamber.  There are some websites showing the flow calculations of the opening and such, so I just decided to make mine variable.  Seems to work out very well, especially on longer smoke times.


----------



## thood

Yeah, here are a couple.  I still need to make one more mod on the fan.  The side with all the holes is the air inlet side, but it needs a damper to control the air intake.  right now it just blows full on.  Since I'm not using it with a digitial feedback contoller the volume of the fan isn't so important.  I mainly just use it when I start the fire, and if I have to feed any additional fuel along the way.  It can raise the temperature in the cook chamber by 20* in just a couple of minutes. 













IMG_0587.JPG



__ thood
__ Apr 24, 2015






The firebox with the felt seal (that I'm sure will burn out again on the next cook)













IMG_0588.JPG



__ thood
__ Apr 24, 2015






The fan from the air intake side.  This still needs a damper plate to control the air intake to the fan.













IMG_0589.JPG



__ thood
__ Apr 24, 2015






This is the fan coupled with the adapter I got at Home Depot.  The tricky part was cutting and shaping the adjustable vent pipe to be square on the fan end and round on the flared end.  Used snap rivets to hold it all together, and covered it with duct tape.


----------



## wishicouldplay

Im glad I found this feed. I just purchased the ok highland last week. I ran it dry to burn off any oil and paint smell. Then I ran again with peanut oil all in the inside to season it. Saturday I smoked a 18 lb turkey, which took 7-1/2 hrs. Hard to keep the temp at 325 using charcoal and cherry chunks. I will need to get ahold of split wood using thd chunks for flavor. I was going back and forth on what to seal the doors with, but mainly that Fire box. I was thinking between the green egg felt stuff, but figured it would be fine for doors not the firebox. I seen they had I believe 1/8" rope gaskget for wood stoves. It has adhesive already on it like the green egg felt. Im not to fond of the caulk sealent for me. Hopefully i can take the box apart and apply the rutland grapho-glas to the lower half and drill holes were the bolts go. I already have some SS bolts that are longer to compensate the added thickness of the rope. I like the locks you put on the doors to help hold it down because of the gasket.


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## wishicouldplay

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__ Apr 28, 2015


















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__ Apr 28, 2015





 great way to one man job this thing.


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## wishicouldplay

Ok I decided to go with the rutland grapho-glas to fix the gap between the firebox on my oklahoma joe highland. It worked out great if it holds up to the heat(which it should) of the firebox. 













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__ Apr 30, 2015


















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__ Apr 30, 2015


----------



## valleypoboy

Wishicouldplay,
Your Grapho Glas sure looks a LOT better than ugly orange RTV poking out my cracks.
Are you able to close up any gaps you have between the FB and CC with it also?

If you have slight gaps at the door cracks, some folded heavy duty aluminum foil works wonders.  I had a crack at the top of my FB door where the lip had a slight bend for some odd reason.  I folded a strip of heavy duty aluminum foil into about a 12" by 3" strip then taco'd it over and under the lip.  It's REALLY not pretty because I wasn't sure how it would work, but it's worked so well I haven't had to replace it since I put it in several weeks ago.  No glue is necessary to hold it in place.  If/when I redo it, I'll take my time and fold the aluminum all nice and make it fit perfect.

Thood,
I'm debating building a wind blocker for the intake, or going all out and building a PID with fan for it.  I already know I'd have to drill the inside of the FB to avoid possible ash problems when blowing from left to right, so that in itself would cut my wind problem, as the wind comes in from the left side.

4 day weekend coming up, so I'll have to do something!

Oh, FYI everyone, Lowe's has the 2 19lb bags of charcoal on sale now and I read HD will have 2 18.6lb bags on sale starting tomorrow?


----------



## thood

Hey VPB,

Yeah that was a little item I missed in my fan system, blowing the ashes up in the cook chamber.  But since then I took a frying splatter screen that fits right in front of the opening and that seems to have solved the ash blowing problem.   I still need to damper the fan though.  This fan blows way too hard for what I need.  Got to throttle it down so it just "fans the fire" when I need it. 

BTW, I haven't used my smaller graphite rope yet on the firebox door.  The felt gasket held up better than I thought.  I'll run with that until it burns out.  

On another note, I was never really able to use my Vision Kamado cooker (ie:big Green Egg) as a smoker because I could never control the temperature low enough.  But since all the talk of sealing things, I re-sealed if with new felt, sealed the air door and the vent damper and now it's like a whole different cooker.  I can control within a degrees.   What a difference.  [emoji]128077[/emoji]


----------



## grillmonkey

THood said:


> Hey VPB,
> 
> Yeah that was a little item I missed in my fan system, blowing the ashes up in the cook chamber. But since then I took a frying splatter screen that fits right in front of the opening and that seems to have solved the ash blowing problem. I still need to damper the fan though. This fan blows way too hard for what I need. Got to throttle it down so it just "fans the fire" when I need it.
> 
> BTW, I haven't used my smaller graphite rope yet on the firebox door. The felt gasket held up better than I thought. I'll run with that until it burns out.
> 
> On another note, I was never really able to use my Vision Kamado cooker (ie:big Green Egg) as a smoker because I could never control the temperature low enough. But since all the talk of sealing things, I re-sealed if with new felt, sealed the air door and the vent damper and now it's like a whole different cooker. I can control within a degrees. What a difference. [emoji]128077[/emoji]


The easiest way to control fan speed is to use a variable fan speed controller. All you do is plug your fan into the controller, and plug the controller into a wall socket. They're cheap and easy to use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-Fa...627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3e06d9b3


----------



## wishicouldplay

Valleypoboy I have not yet put between the firebox and the smoke chamber. I do plan on doing that though, just wanted to see if it would actually hold up: so far it seems stout enough. Before I did this I could feel the heat coming out of the gap, so much in fact it was heating up my siding more than I wanted. Now I cant feel anyheat. You probably seen my pic I took at njght with the light in there. No light means no air. Im still learning how to control the temp, but this did seem to help out. The bolts on the smoke chamber seem to be long enough for me to put that grapho glas all the way around. I havent noticed any of it burning off. I dont recomend using it to "seal" the door, because it created a big gap. On my OK Joe there is not much of a gap on the doors, but I do like the idea of using foil. If you have any more questions or want close up pics dont hesitate to ask. It may be a few days before I reply back though.


----------



## smokenbones

I am looking for the link to give me the dimensions and type of material for the charcoal basket that will fit in my firebox for the Oklahoma Joe Highland.   Please help.

Also What is the dimensions for the extended tube from inside of food chamber.

Thanks for your help

Rod Young


----------



## smokenbones

I purchased a Oklahoma Joe Highland and have been going by other peoples suggestions on sealing this bad boy up.  Now I need help on getting a charcoal basket for the off set wood box and what size of extended tub that I see people putting inside the food cambers.

Thanks for Your Help

smokenbones


----------



## valleypoboy

Smokenbones:   http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/89796/i-call-it-the-20-20-charcoal-basket


----------



## vslvsl

Hey User " fastback " that was an Awesome Post about OJ Highland Smoker~!   Thanks.   

I had some questions:

1)  What Kind "Brand"  "Designation" etc...   sealant did you utilize that will adhear and stand up to the HEAT on the smoker.

2) It appears that the infared? or Convection??? plates are below the cooking grate... what is the thinking on that?

3) What is the purpose in extending the Chimney Vent down to the surface of the Cooking Grate?

4) what is the advantage or purpose of the fire basket?

5) What is the purpose of reducing the opening between the fire box and the cooking/smoking chamber?

Thank you so much for your post AND for your personal reply to me.

                          ~VSLVSL


----------



## vslvsl

Hey Fastback

I am trying to figure out how much of the opening between the fire chamber and the main chamber to 

block off on MY Oklahoma Joe's Highlander (Identical to yours) (the formulas you shared were

very helpful but I was also trying to gauge some of my ideas from your ...  so,   in your post of 9/314 where you

describe and show your modifications to your smoker is photo #7 down from the top the Fire Chamber 

or the main chamber and likewise is Photo #8 the Main chamber or the Fire Chamber?   Thanks

      ~anthony


----------



## fastback

VSLVSL said:


> Hey Fastback
> 
> I am trying to figure out how much of the opening between the fire chamber and the main chamber to
> 
> block off on MY Oklahoma Joe's Highlander (Identical to yours) (the formulas you shared were
> 
> very helpful but I was also trying to gauge some of my ideas from your ...  so,   in your post of 9/314 where you
> 
> describe and show your modifications to your smoker is photo #7 down from the top the Fire Chamber
> 
> or the main chamber and likewise is Photo #8 the Main chamber or the Fire Chamber?   Thanks
> 
> ~anthony


Photo 7 shows the opening view from the fire box - 

Photo 8 is within the cooking chamber where I bolted on the sheet metal.

Hope that helps.


----------



## vslvsl

2015Nov28, S

Thanks Fastback,

Yes that is what I needed to know... I thought that was the vantage point, but 

there were just a couple things that made me wonder.  
Thanks Again and Happy Thanksgiving Weekend...   

           We are not finished tuning up our Smoker but already,   Wowza~!  NumYummie~!!!

                         ~anthony


----------



## valleypoboy

Vslvsl,
#2 and #3 are related. The goal is to keep the airflow of heat coming out the FP from following path of least resistance. Heat rises, so it will exit the FP and go UP to the lid riding the lid until it exits at the top of the left side. The plates help direct the airflow. Moving the exhaust lower also does this.
#4 The fire basket allows you to put a lot more charcoal in, also keeps it from rolling out the vent, also maintains an air vent beneath the lit charcoal.


----------



## vslvsl

Yes, that makes sense,  Thanks for your help~!


----------



## rhaugle

> The exhaust box looks a lot nicer now, I washed it, scrubbed out the rust, coated it in oil and baked the oil in (same way one would season a cast iron pan).


How do you like the box exhaust? I currently am using the dryer elbow method but like the look of the box better...


----------



## rhaugle

THood said:


> IMG_0854.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ thood
> __ Apr 23, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of the diffuser plate with holes, I used this method.  Much less expensive, and easily adjustable.  Seems to work really good, can balance out the heat flow from end to end within 10*F.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0855.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ thood
> __ Apr 23, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deflector plate covering the variable damper and directing the heat in the firebox to the smoke chamber.


THood, also curious about your tuning plates... How think are they? your baffle also, how think? Did this one work well? I know you changed it for the variable one, but did this one work?


----------



## thood

Sorry for the delay in responding.  Hectic holidays.  Regarding my baffle and diffuser plates...  I'm not positive but I think the main baffle was 12ga, and the baffles were 14ga.  I just bought these at Home Depot in the same area with the expanded metal I used to make the fuel storage box.  It all seems to work very well.  Keeps a nice even cooking temperature all the way down the cook chamber.


----------



## thood

This post (and question) was quite a while ago, but a good question about "why the variable damper".   When I put all this together I thought it was going to be necessary to limit the heat going into the cook chamber so I made this plate on a hinge so that I could control that opening.  But after 4 or 5 long cooks on this rig I'm finding that the variable damper isn't necessary at all.  I can control the temperature from the firebox using the damper and variable speed/flow blower system.  So I'm removing the variable damper.  It was a cheap experiment.


----------



## rhaugle

THood said:


> This post (and question) was quite a while ago, but a good question about "why the variable damper".   When I put all this together I thought it was going to be necessary to limit the heat going into the cook chamber so I made this plate on a hinge so that I could control that opening.  But after 4 or 5 long cooks on this rig I'm finding that the variable damper isn't necessary at all.  I can control the temperature from the firebox using the damper and variable speed/flow blower system.  So I'm removing the variable damper.  It was a cheap experiment.


Will you be going back to the previous set up with the 14ga steel bolted into the side?
 


THood said:


> Sorry for the delay in responding.  Hectic holidays.  Regarding my baffle and diffuser plates...  I'm not positive but I think the main baffle was 12ga, and the baffles were 14ga.  I just bought these at Home Depot in the same area with the expanded metal I used to make the fuel storage box.  It all seems to work very well.  Keeps a nice even cooking temperature all the way down the cook chamber.


I've been trying to find everything I can in regards to the tuning plates and baffles. Seems for the plates people are going with thicker stuff, 1/4" - 1/2" steel. Not sure how thick on the baffles though.... But you said you have just as good control with the thinner stuff? Have you changed up your setup at all since this you posted the pictures ?


----------



## valleypoboy

Rhaugle said:


> How do you like the box exhaust? I currently am using the dryer elbow method but like the look of the box better...


I like it because it takes up so little space.  I'm losing 4" (Maybe it's 3", I'll have to go back and check) into my cooking surface, the dry elbow goes a lot further in.  If you have a cut off wheel or other way to cut sheet steel and a way to bend sheet steel it can be made out of much thinner steel than the stuff I used... it could even be made from aluminum and it would bend easier too.  I was thinking of making something a lot narrower, like maybe only 1" deep, but open it up on the bottom so it runs the entire front to back... More ideas for another time.


----------



## thood

Something doesn't sound right here... 1/4" to 1/2" steel?  1/2" would be like armor plating for a tank.  Most smokers are somewhere around 10 gauge material.  The internal baffles we are talking about, I don't see any reason to use very heavy gauge material.  They are simply in place to diffuse the heat.  Here's a link to the ones I bought at Home Depot.  They are 16 gauge and they seem to work fine.  The heat is very evenly distributed across the entire cook surface when I space them out. Good luck.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-in-x-18-in-16-Gauge-Plain-Steel-Sheet-Metal-801467/204225705


----------



## kjolly

A well proven design and it looks well built. Like your adds.


----------



## rhaugle

THood said:


> Something doesn't sound right here... 1/4" to 1/2" steel?  1/2" would be like armor plating for a tank.  Most smokers are somewhere around 10 gauge material.  The internal baffles we are talking about, I don't see any reason to use very heavy gauge material.  They are simply in place to diffuse the heat.  Here's a link to the ones I bought at Home Depot.  They are 16 gauge and they seem to work fine.  The heat is very evenly distributed across the entire cook surface when I space them out. Good luck.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-in-x-18-in-16-Gauge-Plain-Steel-Sheet-Metal-801467/204225705


The Tuning plates are what I have been reading are a thicker metal. I think the Idea behind that is that they are able to distribute the heat better due to radiant heat coming off the plates as well as going around them.. I will try it first with the thin stuff.. no need to drop a bunch of money on 1/4" steel if the cheap stuff will work! Thanks for the info.


----------



## rhaugle

THood said:


> Finally got around to getting some pics posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0862.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ thood
> __ Apr 23, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outside pic with 4 thermos to monitor heat at the grill plate and the top of the chamber, and front to back.


Another question for you,

When you installed the extra thermometers, did you have to do any sort of RTV on the inside? Or were the holes you driller tight enough that no smoke leaks out?


----------



## thood

The holes were tight, but I used o'rings too.  I had a Greenlee punch that was the exact size of the hole so that made a nice fit.


----------



## hardcookin

Just a few thoughts. To me 4 gauges is a little bit of overkill. Use a Maverick with a portable probe to check the grate temps.
My gauges run 30 degrees hotter than the grate temp. That has always stayed pretty consistent. So I just figure my gauges minus 30 degrees for grate temp.

I used this gasket to seal my cooking chamber door.
1/2" x 1/8" Nomex High Temp BBQ gasket smoker pit seal, self stick I don't worry about sealing anything else.

I made a baffle plate out of 1/4 steel for under 20.00 I did weld it. You can buy convection plates made to fit for your smoker. You will just have to do a search.
The only difference is, I had a longhorn.


----------



## rarebear

Question Opinion..
I had LPG Dynaglow delivered Thursday and going back to Amazon because of damage.. 
I'm having second thoughts.
I need an opinion on a charcoal or LPG.

Do LPGs smokers guzzle gas?
Is the OK Joe flavor worth the extra work watching  it..
Seems like it would last longer than most smokers..

I owned a  Brinkman for ten years and hated feeding it charcoal all the time..
I guess they were unsealed and the bottom coal pan was wide open to air..
I'm guessing the OK Joe would be efficient on using charcoal because of good sealing and dampers..


----------



## thood

hardcookin said:


> Just a few thoughts. To me 4 gauges is a little bit of overkill. Use a Maverick with a portable probe to check the grate temps.
> My gauges run 30 degrees hotter than the grate temp. That has always stayed pretty consistent. So I just figure my gauges minus 30 degrees for grate temp.
> 
> I used this gasket to seal my cooking chamber door.
> 1/2" x 1/8" Nomex High Temp BBQ gasket smoker pit seal, self stick I don't worry about sealing anything else.
> 
> I made a baffle plate out of 1/4 steel for under 20.00 I did weld it. You can buy convection plates made to fit for your smoker. You will just have to do a search.
> The only difference is, I had a longhorn.



The 4 gauges could be overkill however it gives you the cooking temps at the grate level on the hot end and the cool end so you can see how the heat is diffusing.   With the multiple moveable plate setup it's easy to redirect some more heat where you need it.  And the 16 ga plates are plenty thick enough to redirect the heat.   No doubt the top end of the cook chamber will run 20-30* hotter than the cook surface.  I too use the remote temp probes to monitor the meat temps but the big gauges are easy to see from across the yard to monitor that the cook temps are staying where they're supposed to.  And that's the idea behind sealing the firebox, not just the cook chamber. The escaping smoke from the cook chamber is a visual where the sealing isn't working but that's not really much of a big issue, unless all of your heat and smoke is escaping.  However if there are air leaks on the firebox side it makes it difficult to control the fire temperature and those air leaks let it burn hotter and burn up your fuel faster.


----------



## txsmokin

Hey guys new to this site. I just have a few questions about the OK joe. Looking into getting one myself. Why does everyone move the exhaust pipe lower to the grates. And what do yall use to seal up some of the leaky connections. Why do yall close off some of the inlet flow? Any info will helo thanks guys.


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## wishicouldplay

TXsmokin I've tried the whole vent lower thing and I didn't like how it performed. I sealed my hot box with rope gasket. It should be on here in the previous posts somewhere. It has worked out great and I love my Oklahoma Joe.If it's not on this one it's in one of my posts if you want to check it out.


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## txsmokin

Wishicouldplay thanks


----------



## wishicouldplay

No problem TXsmokin. Feel free to ask anything and I'll get back with you. 













IMAG0419.jpg



__ wishicouldplay
__ Apr 25, 2016


----------



## cid79

Fastback,

I just picked up my new Oklahoma Joe last night still in the box, and I want to get a tuning\convection plate built for it, I haven't opened the box yet as I want to get everything around before assembly it, anyways can you help me out and tell me the dimensions of your  tuning\convection plate please.

Thank you.

Cid


----------



## fastback

The aluminum plate I have is 16.25 X 22.


----------



## txsmokin

How much meat have yall fit onto the OK joe at one time?


----------



## david flanagan

when you apply the high heat sealant to the firebox, do you need to do that during assebly or can it be done after.  i just got mine the other day and was going to seal it pretty soon and wasnt sure if i needed to take it apart to do it or if i could just fill in the seams.

thanks


----------



## stevess

How did you adapt your OK Joe's smoker to receive the IQ110? I allied the BBQGUYS and they didn't have any info to impart.
Thx,
Stevess


----------



## mjschuette

Do you have the link on where to buy the gasket? Need to do everything on your list yet. Just got it last week and trying it out as is now. But can tell I need to do the upgrades.


----------



## gotalotgoingon

http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/  That's where I got all my mods including the seal kit.


----------



## mjschuette

Perfect! Thanks


----------



## ryan johnson

following this thread.  I have just purchased the ok joe highlander


----------



## mjschuette

TXsmokin said:


> Hey guys new to this site. I just have a few questions about the OK joe. Looking into getting one myself. Why does everyone move the exhaust pipe lower to the grates. And what do yall use to seal up some of the leaky connections. Why do yall close off some of the inlet flow? Any info will helo thanks guys.



As to the lower vent pipe.... It's to keep the heat/smoke from just going out the pipe and makes it a more even temp. I used Mr gasket high heat to seal it all up.


----------



## terryd

Finally picked one of these up!  Tractor Supply had it for $168 last week do I decided to grab one.  Friday it was listed at $104 but rang up as $84 and I had a 10% coupon on top of that!!  Hoping to get it put together tomorrow and start a few mods.  Going to do a full length plate instead of a deflector and a charcoal basket.


----------



## hardcookin

TerryD said:


> Finally picked one of these up!  Tractor Supply had it for $168 last week do I decided to grab one.  Friday it was listed at $104 but rang up as $84 and I had a 10% coupon on top of that!!  Hoping to get it put together tomorrow and start a few mods.  Going to do a full length plate instead of a deflector and a charcoal basket.




Congrats with the new smoker.
I don't think you want a full length plate. As it would restrict the air flow to your exhaust.


----------



## terryd

hardcookin said:


> Congrats with the new smoker.
> I don't think you want a full length plate. As it would restrict the air flow to your exhaust.



Thanks!  I'm excited to get it together and try it out.

I'm going to build it similar to the charcoal pan in my American Gourmet where it is about 1.5" away from all the sides and suspended just below the grates.  I've had the best luck using the charcoal pan flipped in it vs a deflector and tuning plates.  Much more stable and even temperatures.  I can get it made from 1/8 SS at work and build the hangers from TIG rod.  The charcoal basket I've probably build from the expanded metal from Lowe's.


----------



## gotalotgoingon

I can say that I have never used my charcoal basket. I start with half a chimney of lump charcoal just to get my wood started and then it's all splits from there but I also have a free wood source.


----------



## terryd

If I had a source for wood I would do that too. I've don't it before but it used a bunch of wood and I've had a hard time finding more affordably.


----------



## sauced

I use charcoal with chunks in my OJ. Don't have a plate yet, been using aluminum pans.


----------



## tank19

I just got a OK highland and did some mods would greatly appreciate any advise you all could give I welded the burn chamber to the cook chamber built a ash  pan and added baffles. made a turning plate and extended the stack down I made the baffles and turning plates out of 3/16 stainless it was what I had laying around. Also ordered the gasket for the doors thanks


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## valleypoboy

Sounds like you just need to get your smoker dirty now.


----------



## tank19

Did a second dry run got it to 240 in 45 min I have a 10 degree split from left to right and it has been going for 4 hrs and is holding steady at 240 I am very happy with the results I only paid $100 for it at Walmart on clearance and put another  $120 in it for mods if anybody has any other suggestions please don't hesitate as I am smoking some ribs and a pork but tomorrow thanks


----------



## trailblazin02

I picked one up a few weeks ago and Def plan on doing mods. I'm having a hell of a time getting a good clean smoke. I'm struggling through it to cook some pork butts this evening. I've got a decent bed of hickory and maple coals with exhaust wide open and intake maybe 1/2"


----------



## tank19

I never ran mine without mods but with them this is the easiest pit I have run into leave the stack wide open I had the vent on the burn box wide open till it got to 240 then went to 1/2 I use charcoal and haven't added any since the start up and it's been 6hrs or so I think the ash box I built is the reason it works so well with long burn times


----------



## minnsmoker

I just bought a new OJ Highland. Planning to seal both doors, elbow on stack, put firebox deflector in and plates. I have a question on sealing the fire box to cooking chamber. 

I bought the display model so it was already assembled so I was wondering if over time and with use would that joint seal itself with natural build up?


----------



## hardcookin

It could maybe over time, but make sure your nuts and bolts are tight joining the cook chamber and fire box together. Recheck them after a few smokes.


----------



## mike3ga88

Has anyone made or bought a heat plate for their highland? I made my own out of 1/8" steel and drilled holes in it from 3/8 up to 
1 1/4" holes. The dimensions are 16x32. When I first fired it up I still had temp differences of up to 40-50 degrees, so I covered the first row of holes with foil and temps stabilized within 10 degrees so I thought I was set until I did my first full cook last week. I loaded the smoker down with 40 lbs of butt and it completely covered the cooking grates. I fought with my fire for almost the whole cook, just didn't seem like I had a good draft. I'm wondering if I have made my plate to long as the cooking chamber is I think close to 34-36"? With my baffle and the plate I am essentially covering the whole opening. I also had a bowl under my wood grate in the firebox to collect the ash and that may have restricted airflow under the fire. I have no other mods like the exhaust elbow, sorry about the long post just trying to figure out if I should maybe cut 3-4" off the end of my plate. Here's a picture of my plate 













IMG_2413.JPG



__ mike3ga88
__ Oct 24, 2016


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## ozsmoker

just picked one up at walmart (las vegas) for $150, brickseek helped me track one down, 3 left at that store... i had to remove the firebox and smoke stack (the chimney thing) so it could fit in the compact suv, and with the help of a passer by, it was loaded!

now......... my plans for modding are:

- 3" elbow duct down to grate level

- 1/2" x 1/8" High Temp Nomex around CC and FB

- DIY firebox basket upgrade

- tuning plates and convection/baffle mod

**tuning plates and convection/baffle mod**

i'm either going to bite the bullet and buy the premade ones for around $100 or try to redneck a solution. i have a jigsaw and a 4" angle grinder, but not sure they would be sufficient to do what i want

i was considering these cutting these down to 16 inches or so: 6 in. x 18 in. 16-Gauge Sheet Metal - but that sounds too thin at 16 gauge (1/16in thick)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-in-x-18-in-16-Gauge-Plain-Steel-Sheet-Metal-801467/204225705

I've read some people use cookie sheets for a baffle, angled at 45 degrees and supported by the top bolts (used to secure the firebox), then another cookie sheet with holes drilled in as a tuning plate

I've been reading the forums (and other sites) about baffles and convection plates and what not for days and days, and the more I read the less certain I am with what I'm going to do

There's also a convection plate made by horizon, but i've read they take forever to ship

Any advice on what I should consider for the baffle would be welcome

One last thing, I did see a cool mod on youtube where a guy custom cut and fixed a welding blanket on the lid for heat retention. i wonder if it helps.


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## gr0uch0

ozsmoker said:


> just picked one up at walmart (las vegas) for $150, brickseek helped me track one down, 3 left at that store... i had to remove the firebox and smoke stack (the chimney thing) so it could fit in the compact suv, and with the help of a passer by, it was loaded!
> 
> now......... my plans for modding are:
> 
> - 3" elbow duct down to grate level
> 
> - 1/2" x 1/8" High Temp Nomex around CC and FB
> 
> - DIY firebox basket upgrade
> 
> - tuning plates and convection/baffle mod
> 
> **tuning plates and convection/baffle mod**
> 
> i'm either going to bite the bullet and buy the premade ones for around $100 or try to redneck a solution. i have a jigsaw and a 4" angle grinder, but not sure they would be sufficient to do what i want
> 
> i was considering these cutting these down to 16 inches or so: 6 in. x 18 in. 16-Gauge Sheet Metal - but that sounds too thin at 16 gauge (1/16in thick)
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-in-x-18-in-16-Gauge-Plain-Steel-Sheet-Metal-801467/204225705
> 
> I've read some people use cookie sheets for a baffle, angled at 45 degrees and supported by the top bolts (used to secure the firebox), then another cookie sheet with holes drilled in as a tuning plate
> 
> I've been reading the forums (and other sites) about baffles and convection plates and what not for days and days, and the more I read the less certain I am with what I'm going to do
> 
> There's also a convection plate made by horizon, but i've read they take forever to ship
> 
> Any advice on what I should consider for the baffle would be welcome
> 
> One last thing, I did see a cool mod on youtube where a guy custom cut and fixed a welding blanket on the lid for heat retention. i wonder if it helps.


Here's some advice, in no particular order.

1.  You're going to have a battle keeping a constant heat on this rig--I've already said enough about current OJ vs. old school, and you've heard me preach.  Your baffle with the cookie sheet is fine.

2.  Pre-made plate --now you're up to $250 all in

3.  Welding blanket.  Umm...okay?  I'd rather not look like amateur hour, but that's me.  Another $60

4.  Charcoal basket.  Call it $75

5.  Etc.

6.  Etc.

7.  Etc.

In summary, you've bought a smoker, and that's great.  However, you brought up several units a few weeks back--this being one of them--and consensus from many at that time--myself included--was to go to a higher grade smoker for many reasons, not the least of which being that you'd spend what a better rig would run you on countless modifications and still not have near the quality. You state above that you could "...try a redneck solution":  really?  Out of the box, brand new, and going straight to redneck repairs?  I really hate to be preachy, Oz, but you were give some really good advice a few weeks ago about steering clear of something where you'd have to spend as much (if not more than) the unit cost on mods, save up for a few weeks/months for a better quality unit (remember:  buy quality, buy once??) and you chose not to heed any of it.  Best of luck to you, sir.


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## sauced

gr0uch0 said:


> Here's some advice, in no particular order.
> 
> 1.  You're going to have a battle keeping a constant heat on this rig--I've already said enough about current OJ vs. old school, and you've heard me preach.  Your baffle with the cookie sheet is fine.
> 2.  Pre-made plate --now you're up to $250 all in
> 3.  Welding blanket.  Umm...okay?  I'd rather not look like amateur hour, but that's me.  Another $60
> 4.  Charcoal basket.  Call it $75
> 5.  Etc.
> 6.  Etc.
> 7.  Etc.
> 
> In summary, you've bought a smoker, and that's great.  However, you brought up several units a few weeks back--this being one of them--and consensus from many at that time--myself included--was to go to a higher grade smoker for many reasons, not the least of which being that you'd spend what a better rig would run you on countless modifications and still not have near the quality. You state above that you could "...try a redneck solution":  really?  Out of the box, brand new, and going straight to redneck repairs?  I really hate to be preachy, Oz, but you were give some really good advice a few weeks ago about steering clear of something where you'd have to spend as much (if not more than) the unit cost on mods, save up for a few weeks/months for a better quality unit (remember:  buy quality, buy once??) and you chose not to heed any of it.  Best of luck to you, sir.



Hey grouchy....maybe the op could not afford to spend over $1000, ever think of that? I am sure everyone here wants a $1000+ smoker, but funds are limited.


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## gr0uch0

Sauced said:


> Hey grouchy....maybe the op could not afford to spend over $1000, ever think of that? I am sure everyone here wants a $1000+ smoker, but funds are limited.


No, Sauced, north of a grand was never the issue at all, nor did I ever even put that in play:  there were sub-$500 options and reviews provided that would have alleviated a lot of the "redneck fixes" that were just mentioned, not the least of which being something that was a thicker gauge steel that would hold heat better and stand the test of time.  He stated then that he was going to hold out and save up for higher quality, instead of an immediate knee-jerk purchase.  Go take a look before diving blindly into a 6" puddle of water.


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## ozsmoker

gr0uch0 said:


> Sauced said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey grouchy....maybe the op could not afford to spend over $1000, ever think of that? I am sure everyone here wants a $1000+ smoker, but funds are limited.
> 
> 
> 
> No, Sauced, north of a grand was never the issue at all, nor did I ever even put that in play:  there were sub-$500 options and reviews provided that would have alleviated a lot of the "redneck fixes" that were just mentioned, not the least of which being something that was a thicker gauge steel that would hold heat better and stand the test of time.  He stated then that he was going to hold out and save up for higher quality, instead of an immediate knee-jerk purchase.  Go take a look before diving blindly into a 6" puddle of water.
Click to expand...


Except it wasn't knee jerk. I've been reading these forums for weeks and read this entire thread over and over again

I concluded that spending $150 for the smoker and another $100 for the baffle plate and maybe another $50 for other mods would give me a smoker that would rival those in the $500-$1000 range for much less

If I can fabricate a baffle plate myself the costs will be much less. The diy firebox grate is under $20. That's easy to do.

The smoker I bought was preassembled, the lids on CC and FB close and line up perfectly without any adjustments. Others in the store did not

This isn't some flimsy piece of metal, it is very very heavy

I live in Las Vegas, there is no rust issue


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## gr0uch0

2/4/17--"thanks for the suggestions, i will give these models a miss for now and save up for something better.

in the meantime, i will keep trying to improve with my kamado"  Ozsmoker.


ozsmoker said:


> Except it wasn't knee jerk. I've been reading these forums for weeks and read this entire thread over and over again
> 
> I concluded that spending $150 for the smoker and another $100 for the baffle plate and maybe another $50 for other mods would give me a smoker that would rival those in the $500-$1000 range for much less
> 
> If I can fabricate a baffle plate myself the costs will be much less. The diy firebox grate is under $20. That's easy to do.
> 
> The smoker I bought was preassembled, the lids on CC and FB close and line up perfectly without any adjustments. Others in the store did not
> 
> This isn't some flimsy piece of metal, it is very very heavy
> 
> I live in Las Vegas, there is no rust issue


OK, Oz.  Enjoy.  Have a good day, sir.


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## ozsmoker

gr0uch0 said:


> 2/4/17--"thanks for the suggestions, i will give these models a miss for now and save up for something better.
> 
> 
> in the meantime, i will keep trying to improve with my kamado"  Ozsmoker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, Oz.  Enjoy.  Have a good day, sir.



Thank you, you too


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## ozsmoker

THood said:


> Instead of the diffuser plate with holes, I used this method.  Much less expensive, and easily adjustable.  Seems to work really good, can balance out the heat flow from end to end within 10*F.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0855.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ thood
> __ Apr 23, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deflector plate covering the variable damper and directing the heat in the firebox to the smoke chamber.


How many tuning plates are people using for their Highland?

I was thinking 4 of 6"x16" plates and using one of those angled up insider the cooking chambing up toward the firebox opening as a difuser/baffle


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## ammaturesmoker

My wife wanted to know why I still have this smoker when I have two other offsets that are better. My response was because the Newer OKJ is much lighter than the original unit and the Old Country. And only after it was welded together, did the performance increase and has been fantastic. It's also light enough to take places like camping and such. I have turned it into a gas unit for the most part. But still does great burning wood and charcoal as well. She wanted to know why I do not take the other units so I had her lift the 3/16 and 1/4 inch units and that was all she needed. Storing firewood is becoming a pain the rear, keeps getting rained on and snowed on. tarps only seem to last a litttle while. But here is the sad part. I have been using the OKJ more and more than my nicer units. With a few mods done prefessionally by a metel guy, it has been great. I had the lids re-bent and the whole unit welded together. I bought a baffle tuning plate and some heat bricks to maintain temps. Those provide enough compensation to odd set the thin metal.  Sadly though last two weekends I have been using the slow and sear for my Weber and it has been so dang efficient that it's hard for me to justify burning wood.a













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__ ammaturesmoker
__ Jul 12, 2016


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## thood

Sorry for the late reply.  I just saw this.  I think I bought 5 of these.  They were a standard size at Home Depot and didn't require a of cutting, etc.  I noticed on another similar smoker last week that the angled diffuser plate from the firebox is a standard item.


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## thood

Mike3ga88 said:


> Has anyone made or bought a heat plate for their highland? I made my own out of 1/8" steel and drilled holes in it from 3/8 up to
> 1 1/4" holes. The dimensions are 16x32. When I first fired it up I still had temp differences of up to 40-50 degrees, so I covered the first row of holes with foil and temps stabilized within 10 degrees so I thought I was set until I did my first full cook last week. I loaded the smoker down with 40 lbs of butt and it completely covered the cooking grates. I fought with my fire for almost the whole cook, just didn't seem like I had a good draft. I'm wondering if I have made my plate to long as the cooking chamber is I think close to 34-36"? With my baffle and the plate I am essentially covering the whole opening. I also had a bowl under my wood grate in the firebox to collect the ash and that may have restricted airflow under the fire. I have no other mods like the exhaust elbow, sorry about the long post just trying to figure out if I should maybe cut 3-4" off the end of my plate. Here's a picture of my plate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_2413.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ mike3ga88
> __ Oct 24, 2016


This is a very impressive looking plate, and I'm sure you invested a lot of time.  Looks great.  However, kind of defeats the purpose if you still had to cover some of the holes to balance out the heat. Pretty much the same as using the multiple 4 x 16 steel sheets and spacing them like you want them.  Lot less work and probably less money.  Just my 2 cents.


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## thood

ozsmoker said:


> How many tuning plates are people using for their Highland?
> 
> I was thinking 4 of 6"x16" plates and using one of those angled up insider the cooking chambing up toward the firebox opening as a difuser/baffle


By the way, I scrapped that variable deflector from the firebox to the cook chamber.  I found I was just leaving it wide open all the time so it really wasn't doing much.  The angled deflector plate in the pic though is definitely a good idea.


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## thood

ozsmoker said:


> How many tuning plates are people using for their Highland?
> 
> I was thinking 4 of 6"x16" plates and using one of those angled up insider the cooking chambing up toward the firebox opening as a difuser/baffle















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__ Apr 23, 2015


















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__ thood
__ Apr 23, 2015
__ 3






Oz, it's been a while since I posted these original pics of the mods.  Here's a good pic of the multiple rectangular sheets I use for dispersing the heat.  These are just laid in there for the pic but you can be very creative in how you space them to get the effect you want.  The other pic is the wire basket to keep the wood or charcoal from clogging up the inlet air path.  Maybe my best mod was the little blower that hangs on the air inlet with a variable speed control for the blower.  I can get the fire up to temp very quickly and I use that blower to control the temp til I get it where I want it.  Be careful though, it will blow ashes into the cook chamber.  I use a little section of screen to keep that from happening, and just throw it away each time.  The 4 temp gauges may be overkill but it does given a good indication of the heat from the grate to the top of the chamber.  You really only need to know this once.  You can get a grate temp from your Maverick or iGrill thermal probes.  Final note on sealing things up.  I used a felt seal to seal the main cook chamber.  However, I was never able to get anything to seal the firebox door.  Just too hot.  It burned up everything I used.  I finally gave up and frankly I don't see any difference in how it cooks.  Hope this all helps somebody.  It's almost smoking season again!


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## mike3ga88

THood said:


> This is a very impressive looking plate, and I'm sure you invested a lot of time.  Looks great.  However, kind of defeats the purpose if you still had to cover some of the holes to balance out the heat. Pretty much the same as using the multiple 4 x 16 steel sheets and spacing them like you want them.  Lot less work and probably less money.  Just my 2 cents.
> 
> The plate works great after I figured out what I did wrong. I essentially started the first 2 rows of holes closest to the firebox to soon. When I covered them it evened out my temps, with the plate already made there isn't anything else I can do. Plus I can remove the foil and get the area closest to the firebox hotter if I need to during cooking time without any major adjustments, works out nice now that I got it figured out


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## thood

Mike3ga88 said:


>


Mike, please note I wasn't being critical.  I think that plate looks great and I know you put a lot of work in it.  Glad to hear your figuring out how to tune it.  I've played around a lot with my multiple plate tuning method depending on what and how much meat is on the grate.  One thing I've learned about cooking Q, it doesn't matter how you do it or what you do it on, it's all about what it tastes like at the table.  I've seen people cook in a metal trash can (tailgating at Arrowhead) and make some great BBQ.  Smoke 'em if you got em!


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## mike3ga88

Oh absolutely understand what your saying, one great thing about the plate I made is that only thing I have in it is the step down bits and the time. I had a guy from my church cut the steel to size and just gave it to me, I made sure I got him some que in return. Each time I fire my smoker up I learn something new and that makes it fun, I just made me one of the 20/20 coal baskets that I found the how to on this site. It helped my fire control incredibly. Cant wait for my next smoke, we have had absolutely no winter at all here in Georgia and I've been taking advantage of that. Happy Smoking


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## ammaturesmoker

I have been told by the people at bbq smoker mods .com to NOT redirect the exhaust lower with elbows if you are using a tuning plate.


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## ozsmoker

THood said:


> using the multiple 4 x 16 steel sheets and spacing them like you want them.  Lot less work and probably less money



did the sheet come in that size or did you have to trim off 2 inches from an 18in sheet?

i'm using some cookie sheets for now and will be adding a water pan right near the baffle (bent cookie sheet)


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## thood

ozsmoker said:


> did the sheet come in that size or did you have to trim off 2 inches from an 18in sheet?
> 
> i'm using some cookie sheets for now and will be adding a water pan right near the baffle (bent cookie sheet)



It's been a couple of years now but I'm pretty sure they came in that length.


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## thood

ammaturesmoker said:


> I have been told by the people at bbq smoker mods .com to NOT redirect the exhaust lower with elbows if you are using a tuning plate.



I think this is probably right.  I wasnt really confident this was a good idea but I went along with the crowd and put one in.  It actually takes up some cooking space if your doing a couple more f briskets or butts.


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## ozsmoker

THood said:


> It's been a couple of years now but I'm pretty sure they came in that length.



Did you buy from home depot or lowes? None of my stores seem to have that size unfortunately


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## ozsmoker

had a hard time keeping temps up... i averaged about 200 on some beef ribs, so after 3 hours i moved them to the oven and foiled for another 5 hours.. they came out great but it looks like i have some studying to do on fire management

i used about 7lbs of charcoal and then added some more along with oak wood chunks (small ones,specifically for smoking)

i know this is a stick burner so i will look into logs of wood and also check out methods with briquettes


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## sauced

I start off with charcoal then add splits of wood as needed. If temp drops too low, I will add some more lit charcoal, but adding the wood usually works. Temps range from 225 -260 or so. BTW.....I did not put in an extender for the exhaust and I did add the convection plate from bbq mods.


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## thood

ozsmoker said:


> Did you buy from home depot or lowes? None of my stores seem to have that size unfortunately


Pretty sure it was Home Depot


ozsmoker said:


> had a hard time keeping temps up... i averaged about 200 on some beef ribs, so after 3 hours i moved them to the oven and foiled for another 5 hours.. they came out great but it looks like i have some studying to do on fire management
> 
> i used about 7lbs of charcoal and then added some more along with oak wood chunks (small ones,specifically for smoking)
> 
> i know this is a stick burner so i will look into logs of wood and also check out methods with briquettes


I saw that Sauced has responded and I do very similar to what he described.  I use a mix of charcoal and wood.  The charcoal seems to last longer and keep the heat more even.  I do use the split wood sticks (about 12" long) rather than chunks.  But for me the key is the blower that I attach to the air intake.  I can just turn up the fan a bit and get the temp to whatever I want it to be.  The trick seems to be getting the temp up to where you want it and then you can back off and it will stay there for a long time.  But sometimes getting that temp up to 235-250 at the grate can be a little tough.  Could be just the design of the Longhorn, lot of open cooking area for that size of fire box.  With this method I can usually go 10-12 hours by just adding some charcoal or wood every 3-4 hours. 

I'm not sure where you live, but if there is an Academy Sports, they stock and sell this B&B Charcoal stuff.  Otherwise you can look at their website and buy direct from them.  This stuff is GREAT!  These logs last a long time compared to briquettes or lump.

http://www.bbcharcoalproducts.com/product-page/competition-char-logs-30-lbs













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__ thood
__ Mar 3, 2017


















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__ thood
__ Mar 3, 2017


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## ozsmoker

I wish we had academy sports in Las Vegas, those logs look like they work well

I took out my baffle and tuning plate that I made out of cookie sheets and I could easily get temps to 280 and control them easier...

I also have the dryer elbow vent mod, so I'm just going to stick with that on my next cook, no plates

I smoked a pork roast at 200-210 for 3 hrs and then finished it in an oven for another 3 at 275. It came out perfect, which was a welcome surprise since I thought I completely screwed it up

So far 2 experiments with 2 excellent results. 

I'm learning a lot and I get to eat delicious food. No complaints here


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## comer4tide

I use a full chimney of lit briquets in to start things off and add a split or 2 of hickory typically (i use hickory for almost all my meats and cooks) and usually run temps wide open well over 300 if I want to cook hot and fast or damp back can keep it anywhere from 230-260 across the pit. The only mod I did on my highland was a cookie sheet over the firebox opening just to deflect heat down and around, no tuning plates or exhaust lowered, I actually didnt even seal the gaps up around the lid or firebox or exhaust. I have always found that those things need to breathe to run


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## ozsmoker

i posted a thread on my first brisket cook in the highland, no pics however.... didn't go too well... going to try again some other day

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/259910/prime-brisket-attempt-on-ok-joe-highland-offset


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## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> I wish we had academy sports in Las Vegas, those logs look like they work well
> 
> I took out my baffle and tuning plate that I made out of cookie sheets and I could easily get temps to 280 and control them easier...
> 
> I also have the dryer elbow vent mod, so I'm just going to stick with that on my next cook, no plates
> 
> I smoked a pork roast at 200-210 for 3 hrs and then finished it in an oven for another 3 at 275. It came out perfect, which was a welcome surprise since I thought I completely screwed it up
> 
> So far 2 experiments with 2 excellent results.
> 
> I'm learning a lot and I get to eat delicious food. No complaints here


Unless your convection/tuning plate is of good quality with proper hole alignment, you will have issues....cookie sheets are not the way to go.


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## ammaturesmoker

comer4tide said:


> I use a full chimney of lit briquets in to start things off and add a split or 2 of hickory typically (i use hickory for almost all my meats and cooks) and usually run temps wide open well over 300 if I want to cook hot and fast or damp back can keep it anywhere from 230-260 across the pit. The only mod I did on my highland was a cookie sheet over the firebox opening just to deflect heat down and around, no tuning plates or exhaust lowered, I actually didnt even seal the gaps up around the lid or firebox or exhaust. I have always found that those things need to breathe to run


Do not do this if you have the orange 650 degree RTV in or around the firebox


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## comer4tide

ammaturesmoker said:


> Do not do this if you have the orange 650 degree RTV in or around the firebox


correct. i have no seals around the firebox so i can vent out excess heat. the hickory sticks im burning are also a little green still and it takes a hot fire to get them going


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## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> Unless your convection/tuning plate is of good quality with proper hole alignment, you will have issues....cookie sheets are not the way to go.


i removed the cookie sheet, it did nothing for me.... without it, i was getting a 6-10 degree difference at the grate level end to end

the only reason i would buy a convection plate is for heat retention purposes. i would think that adding such a thick chunk of steel in the CC can only be beneficial.

my issue now is that i burn too much fuel. i am using charcoal and briquettes....i will switch over from using just charcoal and briquettes, to wood splits also.


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## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> Do not do this if you have the orange 650 degree RTV in or around the firebox


do not do what exactly?

i sealed the firebox and would like to know specifics on what not to do as i'm not clear on what you are saying


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## gr0uch0

ozsmoker said:


> i removed the cookie sheet, it did nothing for me.... without it, i was getting a 6-10 degree difference at the grate level end to end
> 
> the only reason i would buy a convection plate is for heat retention purposes. i would think that adding such a thick chunk of steel in the CC can only be beneficial.
> 
> my issue now is that i burn too much fuel. i am using charcoal and briquettes....i will switch over from using just charcoal and briquettes, to wood splits also.


Thicker gauge CC would have cured that issue, oz....


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## dugzy33

Just got a new OKJoe's Highland Smoker.

Thought I should become a member here.

I have been using a brinkman smoke n pit.

Worked OK until I tried to do a brisket in the rain at 45 degrees!  

I first started smoking/grilling on a Weber kettle grill.

Had good success doing chicken, pork,ribs indirect.

I have probably a dozen briskets under my belt with the brinkman and also tried a few on a pellet smoker.

I am back to wanting to smoke on an offset as the pellet smoker is basically a convection oven imo.

So this is what I have smoker/grill wise now.

2 Weber kettle grills

1 smoke chef pellet smoker

1 Oklahoma Joe's highland offset smoker













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## sauced

Welcome dugzy33......looks like you followed the same path as me, lol. Lots of great information here and some really amazing, helpful people all willing to help!

I also have the Weber Kettle and added my Oklahoma Joe in the fall. I use the kettle for small smokes and the OKJ for larger ones. Sometimes I have had both going at the same time, the Mrs. thinks I'm crazy, until she is eating!!


----------



## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> do not do what exactly?
> 
> i sealed the firebox and would like to know specifics on what not to do as i'm not clear on what you are saying


I used to have this smoker. I used the food safe RTV with the stuff in between the two clam shells on the firebox and between the firebox and the cook chamber. One day I was bringing it up to temp and poured in an entire chimney of briquettes which is something I had always done on my Weber's. I put in the chicken meat and I then smelled this chemical. Come to find out the RTV which I had set a few weeks higher was melting. I wanted the cook chamber @ 275. Well doing that required to go above the 650 for the food safe RTV for the temp in the firebox. I later found some RTV that could go higher in temp but could not find any that was food safe. So I paid to have it welded. There have been other that have had this happen as I found out I was not along on poisoning food with melting RTV. If you don't weld, use either a rope kits for stoves, or a new product I found at Autozone. I forget the name but it's a 1200 degree food safe metal filler. Stuff is great but messy.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> i removed the cookie sheet, it did nothing for me.... without it, i was getting a 6-10 degree difference at the grate level end to end
> 
> the only reason i would buy a convection plate is for heat retention purposes. i would think that adding such a thick chunk of steel in the CC can only be beneficial.
> 
> my issue now is that i burn too much fuel. i am using charcoal and briquettes....i will switch over from using just charcoal and briquettes, to wood splits also.


What you can do is get food safe heat retention bricks. I had those and worked great. I sold them a while back. Also if you are wanting to get a thick steel plate, the convection plate from Horizon is way heavier duty than the one found at bbq mods .com .....3/16 thickness


----------



## ammaturesmoker

dugzy33 said:


> 2 Weber kettle grills
> 
> 1 smoke chef pellet smoker
> 
> 1 Oklahoma Joe's highland offset smoker


That's it?!?! 













IMG_2780.JPG



__ ammaturesmoker
__ Mar 21, 2017


----------



## gr0uch0

ammaturesmoker said:


> That's it?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_2780.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ ammaturesmoker
> __ Mar 21, 2017


Don't let Mamma see that, else she'll go on another of her purging expeditions.


----------



## comer4tide

gr0uch0 said:


> Don't let Mamma see that, else she'll go on another of her purging expeditions.


Im in the process of buying a towable smoker 72" cooking chamber with a charcoal grill and rib box on it. My dad informed me last night he has some extra space hes freed up in his basement i could park it in so my wife doesnt see it (of course i think my dad is trying to get some free use out of the unit as well!)


----------



## saltydad

Need some advice. Gettin ready to put together Oklahoma joe Highlander. Bought the Baffle plate Heat from BBQ Smoker Mods. How about a meat thermometer recommendation two 1/2" Npt Threaded ports are standard on the cooker.

SaltyDAD


----------



## comer4tide

wont hurt a thing having two thermometers


----------



## sauced

I did not bother with those, I use a Maverick for my temps.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

saltyDAD said:


> Need some advice. Gettin ready to put together Oklahoma joe Highlander. Bought the Baffle plate Heat from BBQ Smoker Mods. How about a meat thermometer recommendation two 1/2" Npt Threaded ports are standard on the cooker.
> 
> SaltyDAD


Any chance you can cancel that baffle plate order? Horizon makes a 3/16 thick version for the highland.


----------



## sauced

That's where I got my plate from.....works fine


----------



## ozsmoker

Sauced said:


> That's where I got my plate from.....works fine


can you run us through an example of how much fuel you use, e.g. what you start off with and how you proceed on a typical day


----------



## sauced

I start off with about 1/2 chimney of lit charcoal, then add small splits ow wood. Once up to temperature, I add another split probably every 20-30 minutes. Temperature in CC runs around 225-250.


----------



## comer4tide

I like to start with a full chimney and a split. Ill let it get hot then dampin back down after it hits 275-300.  Few pieces of lump charcoal and 1-2 splits ever 1-2 hours is all it takes to hold 250-300 temp


----------



## ammaturesmoker

comer4tide said:


> I like to start with a full chimney and a split. Ill let it get hot then dampin back down after it hits 275-300.  Few pieces of lump charcoal and 1-2 splits ever 1-2 hours is all it takes to hold 250-300 temp


This is where it's hard for me to comment as I no longer have this smoker. I used to start with a full chimney of lump coal and open everything up. Once temp was there, I'd back down the air flow. but would soon have to open everything up. The issue I had all of the time was air getting into the unit properly. I stuck a tiny fan on the outside and it had air blowing into it to keep up the temps and a burn instead of a smolder. I probably would not have needed the fan had the fire box contained a full vent. However since the morons in china decided to go two piece, it is no longer possible. As for playing with temps on an original OKJ and Old Country units, It holds heat well due to the thicker metal. I really has been a night and day difference. Air flow is constant and the temps to not give way to much in variation.


----------



## ozsmoker

dugzy33 said:


> Just got a new OKJoe's Highland Smoker.
> Thought I should become a member here.
> 
> I have been using a brinkman smoke n pit.
> Worked OK until I tried to do a brisket in the rain at 45 degrees!
> 
> I first started smoking/grilling on a Weber kettle grill.
> Had good success doing chicken, pork,ribs indirect.
> I have probably a dozen briskets under my belt with the brinkman and also tried a few on a pellet smoker.
> I am back to wanting to smoke on an offset as the pellet smoker is basically a convection oven imo.
> So this is what I have smoker/grill wise now.
> 
> 2 Weber kettle grills
> 1 smoke chef pellet smoker
> 1 Oklahoma Joe's highland offset smoker



What baffle are you using for the Highland and how's it all going?


----------



## ozsmoker

comer4tide said:


> I like to start with a full chimney and a split. Ill let it get hot then dampin back down after it hits 275-300.  Few pieces of lump charcoal and 1-2 splits ever 1-2 hours is all it takes to hold 250-300 temp



When you add splits and charcoal, is the charcoal unlit?


----------



## comer4tide

ozsmoker said:


> When you add splits and charcoal, is the charcoal unlit?


yes it is, i typically add lump and splits. I like the flavor the lump gives and it burns longer than briquets


----------



## dugzy33

ozsmoker said:


> What baffle are you using for the Highland and how's it all going?




It's been cold and rainy here lately. 
Had one nice day and all I got to do was season the smoker for a few hours.  I think it needs a bit more seasoning 

This weekend is supposed to be nice so I'll report back after then. 

I'll also use my maverick to check the temps on both sides of the smoker. At grate level. 

Oh I'm using an old aluminum cookie sheet my wife had for the diverter/baffle plate. 
It's not my ideal solution  but it was handy and free so I'll try it.  If it doesn't work I'll Fab something up. 
Doug


----------



## ozsmoker

THood said:


> I saw that Sauced has responded and I do very similar to what he described.  I use a mix of charcoal and wood.  The charcoal seems to last longer and keep the heat more even.  I do use the split wood sticks (about 12" long) rather than chunks.  But for me the key is the blower that I attach to the air intake.  I can just turn up the fan a bit and get the temp to whatever I want it to be.  The trick seems to be getting the temp up to where you want it and then you can back off and it will stay there for a long time.  But sometimes getting that temp up to 235-250 at the grate can be a little tough.  Could be just the design of the Longhorn, lot of open cooking area for that size of fire box.  With this method I can usually go 10-12 hours by just adding some charcoal or wood every 3-4 hours.



I have the highland, but I'm absolutely sure I need a fan blower. I have a 20x20 basket, and have tried the different orientation of the firebox grate for more air flow, but it was worse... I also have the elbow vent mod, the felt gasket and the rtv sealant

I am using wood splits now, I preheat them on top of the firebox, they light up pretty quickly, but as soon as I close the door, or leave it open a couple inches, the flame goes out and they just smolder. Then the temps slowly drop (too quickly if that makes sense). They smolder even after i let them burning nicely with the door open.

I understand I'm supposed to keep a nice small fire going to get the thin blue smoke, but that wasn't happening. I feel for sure there needs to be more air being pushed/pulled through

Also, I think I should just get a convection plate, especially if people are very happy with theirs


----------



## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> This is where it's hard for me to comment as I no longer have this smoker. I used to start with a full chimney of lump coal and open everything up. Once temp was there, I'd back down the air flow. but would soon have to open everything up. The issue I had all of the time was air getting into the unit properly. I stuck a tiny fan on the outside and it had air blowing into it to keep up the temps and a burn instead of a smolder. I probably would not have needed the fan had the fire box contained a full vent. However since the morons in china decided to go two piece, it is no longer possible. As for playing with temps on an original OKJ and Old Country units, It holds heat well due to the thicker metal. I really has been a night and day difference. Air flow is constant and the temps to not give way to much in variation.



This is my exact problem. What fan did you use?

So even after adding the fan you still weren't happy with the unit?


----------



## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> This is my exact problem. What fan did you use?
> 
> So even after adding the fan you still weren't happy with the unit?


You know what? It was a simple 4 inch desk fan that I put on top of a standing up cinder block. Had it about 4 inches away. The problem is you need air to get into that thing. When they decided to go 2 piece design on the firebox, they had to to get rid of top vent hole. Charbroil doesn't know shit about air flow when they did this. All they saw was dollars saved as they could fit more in a small space for shipping. I hope those fuckers croak!!! In all honesty, It was simply too big. The problem is with these guys is you burn through a lot of fuel for say a simple pork butt. Going with a shorter length and small diameter burns half of the fuel.


----------



## gr0uch0

ammaturesmoker said:


> You know what? It was a simple 4 inch desk fan that I put on top of a standing up cinder block. Had it about 4 inches away. The problem is you need air to get into that thing. When they decided to go 2 peice design on the firebox, they had to to get rid of top and bottom vent holes. _*Charbroil doesn't know shit about air flow when they did this. All they saw was dollars saved as they could fit more in a small space for shipping. I hope those fuckers croak!!!*_


Pretty well sums it up, I'd say.


----------



## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> You know what? It was a simple 4 inch desk fan that I put on top of a standing up cinder block. Had it about 4 inches away. The problem is you need air to get into that thing. When they decided to go 2 piece design on the firebox, they had to to get rid of top vent hole. Charbroil doesn't know shit about air flow when they did this. All they saw was dollars saved as they could fit more in a small space for shipping. I hope those fuckers croak!!! In all honesty, It was simply too big. The problem is with these guys is you burn through a lot of fuel for say a simple pork butt. Going with a shorter length and small diameter burns half of the fuel.


sweet that's my kind of mod

yeah, i kind of regret buying this thing now, as it will cost me a lot in the long run. but you live and learn


----------



## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> sweet that's my kind of mod
> 
> yeah, i kind of regret buying this thing now, as it will cost me a lot in the long run. but you live and learn


I did not get real performance out of it until I had a metal guy weld it all up and re-bend the lids to where they fit. That ran me 50 dollars but it was far better than failed RTV and lavalock gaskets. I mean my first cook half of the paint flaked off on the firebox. But if this is all that is available for you to purchase for the price than you learn to deal with things. My take is how much in cost of meat are you going to ruin by the time it takes you to figure everything out that you need to mod each time. I was tired of modding and just wanted to cook.


----------



## comer4tide

ammaturesmoker said:


> I did not get real performance out of it until I had a metal guy weld it all up and re-bend the lids to where they fit. That ran me 50 dollars but it was far better than failed RTV and lavalock gaskets. I mean my first cook half of the paint flaked off on the firebox. But if this is all that is available for you to purchase for the price than you learn to deal with things. My take is how much in cost of meat are you going to ruin by the time it takes you to figure everything out that you need to mod each time. I was tired of modding and just wanted to cook.


This right here, esp your last line about "I was tired of modding and just wanted to cook" is exactly why im looking at the lang 48 hybrid patio and the black warrior comanche warrior


----------



## ammaturesmoker

comer4tide said:


> This right here, esp your last line about "I was tired of modding and just wanted to cook" is exactly why im looking at the lang 48 hybrid patio and the black warrior comanche warrior


it's like washing and waxing a fastback mustang 6 times a week and never turning over the engine.


----------



## gr0uch0

ammaturesmoker said:


> it's like washing and waxing a fastback mustang 6 times a week and never turning over the engine.


I'd liken it more to putting spinners, Bang & Olufsen sound, and K&N filters on a two-tone--Bondo & rust--'78 Pacer.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

gr0uch0 said:


> I'd liken it more to putting spinners, Bang & Olufsen sound, and K&N filters on a two-tone--Bondo & rust--'78 Pacer.


lol...."polishing shit?!"


----------



## gr0uch0

ammaturesmoker said:


> lol...."polishing shit?!"


There you go, amigo.













BB.jpg



__ gr0uch0
__ Apr 3, 2017


----------



## hardcookin

ozsmoker said:


> sweet that's my kind of mod
> 
> yeah, i kind of regret buying this thing now, as it will cost me a lot in the long run. but you live and learn


You just need to figure your smoker out and experiment with some things. 
I have seen them cook nearly every cut of meat you can imagine.  With little problems of any kind.  In my opinion its not a bad entry level smoker.
Lets figure it out..


----------



## ozsmoker

hardcookin said:


> You just need to figure your smoker out and experiment with some things.
> I have seen them cook nearly every cut of meat you can imagine. With little problems of any kind. In my opinion its not a bad entry level smoker.
> Lets figure it out..


so what about a convection plate, what's the verdict on those?


----------



## hardcookin

ozsmoker said:


> so what about a convection plate, what's the verdict on those?


Convection plate or tuning plates should even temps out. How even is your temps without one?


----------



## sauced

Yes...add the convection plate. I added one to mine, now it gets up to temp quicker and holds temps pretty steady.


----------



## thood

This is the blower that I'm using, came from an old furnace.  I see a new one like it costs around $65.  The V/S control below is about $15 on ebay. I had to fabricate the connection from some dryer vent pipe.  That gets really hot around the firebox opening so plan accordingly for that.  If you zoon in on the pic you can see that I just have one screw with a wing nut attaching the blower face piece to firebox door.  I use the variable speed control to get the fan speed where I want it.  You can get the temps up FAST using this system.  Once they're going the fan can usually be turned down very low or even take it off.  

One thing to watch for, when you turn the fan on it blows ashes up into the cook chamber.  I usually put a piece of screen wire in there to block the ashes.  It burns up during the cook but it's cheap and easy and does the job.  Hope this helps you.  Good luck.













IMG_0589.JPG



__ thood
__ Apr 24, 2015





  

 













blowercontrol.jpg



__ thood
__ Apr 4, 2017


----------



## ozsmoker

looks very fancy thood ^^^

i'm trying to decide between the horizon convection plate (thicker steel) or the bbqsmokermods version (thinner steel)

it seems like the bbqsmokermods version has good reviews and is a better design. i've read some people have issues with the horizon one not being flush up against the cooking chamber on the firebox side, but it is a thicker steel 

decisions, decisions.


----------



## sauced

I got mine from bbqsmokermods. It fit perfectly and I did not bolt the two sections together. The top of the baffle fit flush against the fire box, no need to bolt it on. I also have seen that the Horizon plate takes 6 - 8 weeks to get, the bbqsmokermods sent it right out, had it in 1 week. Works great!!


----------



## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> looks very fancy thood ^^^
> 
> i'm trying to decide between the horizon convection plate (thicker steel) or the bbqsmokermods version (thinner steel)
> 
> it seems like the bbqsmokermods version has good reviews and is a better design. i've read some people have issues with the horizon one not being flush up against the cooking chamber on the firebox side, but it is a thicker steel
> 
> decisions, decisions.


I have now had both....the one from smoker mods was ok but I had to make some of the holes on the right side bigger


----------



## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> I have now had both....the one from smoker mods was ok but I had to make some of the holes on the right side bigger



So both work well then?


----------



## ammaturesmoker

ozsmoker said:


> So both work well then?


Well this for me is more of a personal touch in preference. If it sounds biased, let me explain why. When I first got my plates from BBQSmoker mods.com, the right side near the firebox kept getting as much as 45 degrees cooler. And going all of the way down, the temps were still not even. I contacted the company and they acted like since it is new there will be some trial and error. However they wanted my input as to my methods. Mine was one of the first ones made....intro price was only 69 bucks. I found out I needed to not only make some of the small holes larger, but I needed to disconnect the two pieces to add a gap and move the whole thing 1 inch to the left. But all of this convinced me they did not do much in terms of testing on their own. Now as for Horizon.....those guys had made tons of them until they found the correct ones from the way Steve explained to me. He said if I have any issues, call him and they will make it right. The other guys I got the feeling of its new so you should give us a break if something is not right and we are keeping your money.


----------



## simko

Hi Everyone

Ive been following this thread for a while, and replied to the wrong thread htris morning. Im going to ask some questions here which i brought up in another thread, but i feel as if the questions are better asked here....

I just purchased a second hand (used once?) OKJ Highland smoker. For the price point (i paid 100 cad) I feel as if this was my best buy, I plan on building a horizontal offset smoker in the future, no time for that now.

Before i start using this thing, i plan on taking some of it apart, cleaning it down and doing a few simple modifications. I was hoping i could list a few things, and hopefully someone will chime in if theres a better option , I tried reading through this thread but i see that different people have results with different methods.

1. Sealing cracks, some are using high heat RTV (red stuff) whereas others are using some kind of fiberglass ? (is that correct?) Is one better than the other?

2.  A plate on the bottom? Is this to reflect heat from the bottom to raise the internal temperature towards the cooking surface? Not sure I understand the purpose of this

3. A plate that closes the opening between the firebox and cook chamber? Again, I dont understand the purpose

4. Adding thermometers at the cooking rack level, makes sense, what are good thermometers to get for this?

5. a bit of ductwork to stop smoke from escaping the cook chamber so quickly

6. expanded metal basket for wood and charcoal

7. Sealing the doors, looks like felt gaskets burn out, 1/2" stove rope is too big,  does anyone have success with anything that doesnt burn out?

8. Adding latches to keep the doors clamped shut (can someone let me know what these latches are called?)

Am i missing anything else? thanks in advance everyone, looking forward to setting this thing up :)


----------



## ammaturesmoker

simko said:


> Hi Everyone
> 
> Ive been following this thread for a while, and replied to the wrong thread htris morning. Im going to ask some questions here which i brought up in another thread, but i feel as if the questions are better asked here....
> 
> I just purchased a second hand (used once?) OKJ Highland smoker. For the price point (i paid 100 cad) I feel as if this was my best buy, I plan on building a horizontal offset smoker in the future, no time for that now.
> 
> Before i start using this thing, i plan on taking some of it apart, cleaning it down and doing a few simple modifications. I was hoping i could list a few things, and hopefully someone will chime in if theres a better option , I tried reading through this thread but i see that different people have results with different methods.
> 
> 1. Sealing cracks, some are using high heat RTV (red stuff) whereas others are using some kind of fiberglass ? (is that correct?) Is one better than the other?
> 
> 2.  A plate on the bottom? Is this to reflect heat from the bottom to raise the internal temperature towards the cooking surface? Not sure I understand the purpose of this
> 
> 3. A plate that closes the opening between the firebox and cook chamber? Again, I dont understand the purpose
> 
> 4. Adding thermometers at the cooking rack level, makes sense, what are good thermometers to get for this?
> 
> 5. a bit of ductwork to stop smoke from escaping the cook chamber so quickly
> 
> 6. expanded metal basket for wood and charcoal
> 
> 7. Sealing the doors, looks like felt gaskets burn out, 1/2" stove rope is too big,  does anyone have success with anything that doesnt burn out?
> 
> 8. Adding latches to keep the doors clamped shut (can someone let me know what these latches are called?)
> 
> Am i missing anything else? thanks in advance everyone, looking forward to setting this thing up :)


Lets break this down....

1:

the RTV and "fibergrass" people use are different products. If you have to choose between one and not have the unit welded all together buy a welder, I would choose the fiberglass looking option. That is a stove rope kit found at many hardware stores. Seals pretty good but looks like hell.

2:

The plate you are seeing are tuning plates or sometimes called convection plates. Some are metal slats and some are large ones with holes. This is to even out the heat. The firebox is on the side so these plates make the left side as even as the side with the firebox.

3:

These are called baffle plates. It just direct the smoke to be lowered coming out. Some have these already built into their tuning plates.

4:

Good thermometers are easy to come by. Look up Lava lock

5:

The ductwork thing is to lower where the heat will exhaust and help fix an issue called "cold spotting". If you have a tuning plate, this is not needed. Personally it's not really needed at all in my opinion.

6:

Charcoal baskets are a great way to optimize your fuels. Keeps the burn in one area. Recommend you spend you money on this and a convection plate.

7:

Many are using the felt stuff by Lava Lock. It's a gasket. 

8:

latches don't really have a name since they are used in may industries and are what they are....latches. you can find many of these things at bbqsmokermods.com


----------



## simko

ammaturesmoker said:


> Lets break this down....
> 
> 1:
> 
> the RTV and "fibergrass" people use are different products. If you have to choose between one and not have the unit welded all together buy a welder, I would choose the fiberglass looking option. That is a stove rope kit found at many hardware stores. Seals pretty good but looks like hell.
> 
> 2:
> 
> The plate you are seeing are tuning plates or sometimes called convection plates. Some are metal slats and some are large ones with holes. This is to even out the heat. The firebox is on the side so these plates make the left side as even as the side with the firebox.
> 
> 3:
> 
> These are called baffle plates. It just direct the smoke to be lowered coming out. Some have these already built into their tuning plates.
> 
> 4:
> 
> Good thermometers are easy to come by. Look up Lava lock
> 
> 5:
> 
> The ductwork thing is to lower where the heat will exhaust and help fix an issue called "cold spotting". If you have a tuning plate, this is not needed. Personally it's not really needed at all in my opinion.
> 
> 6:
> 
> Charcoal baskets are a great way to optimize your fuels. Keeps the burn in one area. Recommend you spend you money on this and a convection plate.
> 
> 7:
> 
> Many are using the felt stuff by Lava Lock. It's a gasket.
> 
> 8:
> 
> latches don't really have a name since they are used in may industries and are what they are....latches. you can find many of these things at bbqsmokermods.com


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Hey Ammmature, thanks for taking the time to answer/explain all my questions, I have a few more

1: Yes, I want to keep costs down and don’t want to weld everything together, any chance you (or someone here) knows the name of the fiberglass product? I’ll google things like wood stove fiberglass etc.

2:The plate you are seeing are tuning plates or sometimes called convection plates. Some are metal slats and some are large ones with holes. This is to even out the heat. The firebox is on the side so these plates make the left side as even as the side with the firebox.

OK, does this plate have an angle at one end (near the firebox) that slopes down to the bottom then levels out and goes to the other end of the ccook box? Smoke travels under this plate over the entire length of the cook box?

3: These are called baffle plates. It just direct the smoke to be lowered coming out. Some have these already built into their tuning plates.

I guess the tuning plate I just described is a baffle/tuning plate combo?

4:

Good thermometers are easy to come by. Look up Lava lock

Will do, thankyou!

5:

The ductwork thing is to lower where the heat will exhaust and help fix an issue called "cold spotting". If you have a tuning plate, this is not needed. Personally it's not really needed at all in my opinion.

Fair enough, if I build a tning plate I will start without this, and I could always add it and see if I like it, looks like a quick simple add-on

6:

I think im going to build the 20-20 basket I saw online

7:

Many are using the felt stuff by Lava Lock. It's a gasket.  I’ll look into this, or the rope. I was thinking of the fiberglass isn’t too rigid (or if it has really high heat tolerance) I may spray the box with a release agent, put the fiberglass on the lid, let it cure and that should form somewhat of a rigid seal…sortof like bedding a rifle (not sure if that resonates with many members here)

8:

just ordered some push toggle latches, 2 on the cook box, 2 on the firebox

Again, thanks very much for your response, greatly appreciated


----------



## ozsmoker

> 6:
> 
> I think im going to build the 20-20 basket I saw online
> 
> 7:
> 
> Many are using the felt stuff by Lava Lock. It's a gasket.  I’ll look into this, or the rope. I was thinking of the fiberglass isn’t too rigid (or if it has really high heat tolerance) I may spray the box with a release agent, put the fiberglass on the lid, let it cure and that should form somewhat of a rigid seal…sortof like bedding a rifle (not sure if that resonates with many members here)
> 
> 8:
> 
> just ordered some push toggle latches, 2 on the cook box, 2 on the firebox
> 
> Again, thanks very much for your response, greatly appreciated


6. I built the 20x20, if i can do it anyone can. there's a thread on it in these forums with instructions

7. i use the lavalock felt on both cook chamber and firebox, no problems yet, but i know i will will have to be replaced regularly in the firebox

8. i bought some latches for a different purpose but haven't used them yet... as for keep the cooking chamber closed better, i use two bungee cords, connected at the back end of the smoker's bottom tray then to the handle of the cooking chamber in an "X" formation. pretty easy to release and re-connect when i need to open/close the cook chamber lid


----------



## comer4tide

I like the bunjee cord idea, cheap and effective! I am torn on getting a baffle plate for this. I am currently looking at getting a lang patio or a black warrior patio model but, until then, this bad boy will have to do me and im tired of only being able to cook on 50-60% of the surface. 

BTW, does anyone know the actual measurement on the cooking chamber itself (length and diameter). I keep meaning to measure mine but forget when i get home


----------



## ammaturesmoker

simko said:


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> 
> Hey Ammmature, thanks for taking the time to answer/explain all my questions, I have a few more
> 
> 1: Yes, I want to keep costs down and don’t want to weld everything together, any chance you (or someone here) knows the name of the fiberglass product? I’ll google things like wood stove fiberglass etc.
> 
> 2:The plate you are seeing are tuning plates or sometimes called convection plates. Some are metal slats and some are large ones with holes. This is to even out the heat. The firebox is on the side so these plates make the left side as even as the side with the firebox.
> 
> OK, does this plate have an angle at one end (near the firebox) that slopes down to the bottom then levels out and goes to the other end of the ccook box? Smoke travels under this plate over the entire length of the cook box?
> 
> 3: These are called baffle plates. It just direct the smoke to be lowered coming out. Some have these already built into their tuning plates.
> 
> I guess the tuning plate I just described is a baffle/tuning plate combo?
> 
> 4:
> 
> Good thermometers are easy to come by. Look up Lava lock
> 
> Will do, thankyou!
> 
> 5:
> 
> The ductwork thing is to lower where the heat will exhaust and help fix an issue called "cold spotting". If you have a tuning plate, this is not needed. Personally it's not really needed at all in my opinion.
> 
> Fair enough, if I build a tning plate I will start without this, and I could always add it and see if I like it, looks like a quick simple add-on
> 
> 6:
> 
> I think im going to build the 20-20 basket I saw online
> 
> 7:
> 
> Many are using the felt stuff by Lava Lock. It's a gasket.  I’ll look into this, or the rope. I was thinking of the fiberglass isn’t too rigid (or if it has really high heat tolerance) I may spray the box with a release agent, put the fiberglass on the lid, let it cure and that should form somewhat of a rigid seal…sortof like bedding a rifle (not sure if that resonates with many members here)
> 
> 8:
> 
> just ordered some push toggle latches, 2 on the cook box, 2 on the firebox
> 
> Again, thanks very much for your response, greatly appreciated


The welding cost me 30 dollars from a friend to do it....everyone knows a welder....LOL.....as for the convection plate, It's up to you. To me it sounds like you are spending more time modding than cooking. This is why I have opted to use more expensive cookers and have sold the highland unit. And I never even got close to the results I now get. Good air flow....even temps....quality may be a cost but I am cooking and not modding. Seemed like I was always modding to counter a poorly manufactured product. You can only take that so far.


----------



## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> The welding cost me 30 dollars from a friend to do it....everyone knows a welder....LOL.....as for the convection plate, It's up to you. To me it sounds like you are spending more time modding than cooking. This is why I have opted to use more expensive cookers and have sold the highland unit. And I never even got close to the results I now get. Good air flow....even temps....quality may be a cost but I am cooking and not modding. Seemed like I was always modding to counter a poorly manufactured product. You can only take that so far.


what are you cooking on now?


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## sauced

ammaturesmoker said:


> The welding cost me 30 dollars from a friend to do it....everyone knows a welder....LOL.....as for the convection plate, It's up to you. To me it sounds like you are spending more time modding than cooking. This is why I have opted to use more expensive cookers and have sold the highland unit. And I never even got close to the results I now get. Good air flow....even temps....quality may be a cost but I am cooking and not modding. Seemed like I was always modding to counter a poorly manufactured product. You can only take that so far.



Yes....I wish I too had over $1000 to spend on a much better smoker, but I don't, so I have to add a few mods and the OKJ produces some pretty good que, I like it and the family likes it.


----------



## gr0uch0

Sauced said:


> Yes....I wish I too had over $1000 to spend on a much better smoker, but I don't, so I have to add a few mods and the OKJ produces some pretty good que, I like it and the family likes it.



A grand or better doesn't have to be spent, as has already been discussed, and that dog doesn't hunt.  Nor does buying the cheapest thing either, and then having to do a bunch of crazy rigging to try and make it remotely functional, keep throwing good money after bad, and still not being happy with it.  As also has been discussed, buy quality, buy once.  Buy price, buy again.  And again.  And again.

There's another concept that is seldom used anymore that was also discussed previously.  It's called saving up to buy something instead of pulling the trigger for the sake of instant gratification.


----------



## comer4tide

gr0uch0 said:


> A grand or better doesn't have to be spent, as has already been discussed, and that dog doesn't hunt. Nor does buying the cheapest thing either, and then having to do a bunch of crazy rigging to try and make it remotely functional, keep throwing good money after bad, and still not being happy with it. As also has been discussed, buy quality, buy once. Buy price, buy again. And again. And again.
> 
> There's another concept that is seldom used anymore that was also discussed previously. It's called saving up to buy something instead of pulling the trigger for the sake of instant gratification


runing my okie joe this summer and this fall dropping the cash on a 48 patio or 60 trailer unit


----------



## simko

Hi Everyone

thanks again for sage advice. I bought the OKJ because it was 100 cad (75 usd) and it was basically unused, I just bought 4 toggle clamps for about 20 cad  , I have some rope from a wood stove that I will use as the gasket and I will have to get some sealant. I will likely whip up a tuning plate with some steel i have kicking around the house. Overall I think i will have a half decent smoker which will likely be used 3-4 times this summer for chicken thighs, maybe beef navel, thats about it.

I wanted to build an offset smoker but I don't have much time to spend on that, I feel that lightly modifying the OKJ should do me for this summer and maybe even next year, once things settle down (moving , honeymoon, etc) I will hopefully know what i like in a smoker, what feature i don't , and then i can move toward building my own.

I'll update as i go along, but for now , thanks to everyone, i really appreciate the time that it takes to formulate thoughts and write out a reply :)


----------



## sauced

gr0uch0 said:


> A grand or better doesn't have to be spent, as has already been discussed, and that dog doesn't hunt.  Nor does buying the cheapest thing either, and then having to do a bunch of crazy rigging to try and make it remotely functional, keep throwing good money after bad, and still not being happy with it.  As also has been discussed, buy quality, buy once.  Buy price, buy again.  And again.  And again.
> 
> There's another concept that is seldom used anymore that was also discussed previously.  It's called saving up to buy something instead of pulling the trigger for the sake of instant gratification.



I can only speak for me but....it's what I could afford, and I was aware of the mods needed and not entering any comps. I'm having fun, the food comes out pretty good and my family likes it, and to me in my situation, that is all that matters!! Cheers


----------



## ammaturesmoker

gr0uch0 said:


> A grand or better doesn't have to be spent, as has already been discussed, and that dog doesn't hunt.  Nor does buying the cheapest thing either, and then having to do a bunch of crazy rigging to try and make it remotely functional, keep throwing good money after bad, and still not being happy with it.  As also has been discussed, buy quality, buy once.  Buy price, buy again.  And again.  And again.
> 
> There's another concept that is seldom used anymore that was also discussed previously.  It's called saving up to buy something instead of pulling the trigger for the sake of instant gratification.



I did not spend near that on my offsets....but hey my time is worth more than spending time on a COS. 1000 bucks I would gladly spend if that would get me a new unit. Problem is 1000 bucks is still not enough with shipping charges. I would Be happy to only pay 1000 if Indid not have my units.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

Sauced said:


> I can only speak for me but....it's what I could afford, and I was aware of the mods needed and not entering any comps. I'm having fun, the food comes out pretty good and my family likes it, and to me in my situation, that is all that matters!! Cheers




Get to smoking yo


----------



## ammaturesmoker

http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/offset_smokers.html


----------



## comer4tide

ammaturesmoker said:


> http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/offset_smokers.html


good tips in there to make a COS work tho. Great read


----------



## ammaturesmoker

you know I have this guys book....it's ok but I think it is written mostly for morons who turn beer can chicken into black toast.


----------



## comer4tide

ammaturesmoker said:


> you know I have this guys book....it's ok but I think it is written mostly for morons who turn beer can chicken into black toast.


it is. its written for the majority of people who dont cook often or just started. i have it as well and there are some good references and points in it tho


----------



## dontknowsquat

I have a question about the RTV for this smoker. Is it ok to put the RTV on after the smoker was assembled or should I disassemble it and put the RTV in and clamp it back together? 

Thanks ahead of time. 

Jon


----------



## thood

DONTKNOWSQUAT said:


> I have a question about the RTV for this smoker. Is it ok to put the RTV on after the smoker was assembled or should I disassemble it and put the RTV in and clamp it back together?
> 
> Thanks ahead of time.
> 
> Jon



I did mine wen it was new and making some other mods that made disassembly necessary anyway, so that's how I did it.  However I have to say I'm not sure how much it was worth.  The temp between the firebox and cook chamber gets hot enough to burn out the RTV anyway, plus it was a pretty tight fit to begin with.  Frankly I think we spend way to much time, talk and money on sealing up the smoker.  Except for the firebox to control the air flow and temperature I really don't see the benefit of sealing up the cook chamber in the final product.  I've had some great Q from some funny looking cookers, even a 55 gal drum. Of course you don't want smoke leaking out all over the place but trying to seal every tiny leak in the cook chamber isn't critical to the outcome. The OKJ is pretty good just the way it comes. I'm sure some others will disagree but the proof is in the food. 
 :grilling_smilie:
Tony


----------



## skunkwerx

DONTKNOWSQUAT said:


> I have a question about the RTV for this smoker. Is it ok to put the RTV on after the smoker was assembled or should I disassemble it and put the RTV in and clamp it back together?
> 
> Thanks ahead of time.
> 
> Jon


Jon,

  I think the higher quality way to your RTV job is, to disassemble, then RTV between the firebox and cooking chamber.  Make sure to use High Temp RTV,  there are several flavors that will say "High" but read the fine print for the higher temperature stuff.  You will see pics, I think even early in this thread, showing how they apply the RTV around the perimeter and around each bolt hole.  You can also place a bead on the outside, on top, where the two assemblies meet to prevent any moisture from weeping down into that crack.

I assembled mine brand new, then less than a week later dropped the firebox and RTV'd it.  Wish I had done it during first assembly, but, glad I took the extra time to disassemble. 

I don't regret it a bit.  Good luck!


----------



## ammaturesmoker

comer4tide said:


> it is. its written for the majority of people who dont cook often or just started. i have it as well and there are some good references and


The problem is the RTV's above 650 are NOT food safe.


----------



## skunkwerx

I found, on my old smoker, that the visible RTV that was "exposed" to the fire and flame inside the firebox appeared to be charred and degraded, while the stuff that had been encapsulated between the firebox and cooking chamber was still viable and providing a seal. 

The heat ratings on RTV seems to refer to "exposure".  I'm not sure if the actual metal is getting beyond 600F?   I'll use my heat therm gun next time and try to determine the actual temperature.

NSF certifcation for food safety of RTV seems to speak to "in contact with food".  I have wondered about that, as well, given that food would never contact the sealant in this application?

(disclaimer: I am NOT advocating using anything other than Food Safe RTV) .. just have wondered about it.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

Even the food safe stuff I had melted and put chemical smell into some of my food. I had to throw it out. It was a completley full chimney of kingsford in the weber chimney


----------



## ozsmoker

ammaturesmoker said:


> The problem is the RTV's above 650 are NOT food safe.


i used rtv 500 foodsafe for sealing the FB and CC together, it did smell bad after the first couple of cooks (like toxic), but smell has gone away and it partially melted, but now is holding up

i kind of agree with what has been said that it's more important to start cooking with the thing, then mod it

i don't really know what the benefit of all the mods are since i don't have a reference point (unmodded) to start with

one could say that sealing things up makes the thing work worse. since i definitely don't get enough airflow through to the firebox, so sealing it up seems counterproductive. the same can probably be said for the cooking chamber, since if it is sealed up too well, then not enough air will be drawn through the smoke stack. that is of course me speculating

the only thing i will be able to see the difference in will be the convection plate, if i ever get it from horizon... that and the 4" personal fan i plan on using to blow some air into the FB


----------



## ammaturesmoker

Here is the thing....just like any smoker, the more you use it, the more the gaps will fill up on their own with carbon. When I had this smoker, I spent 30 dollars and paid someone to seal it up via welding. It was the best thing ever. But I also knew that if I did not do that, I would have left it alone and the carbon would have built up on its own over time anyway. If you are going to seal anything, It's the doors. Focus on that and then stop modding and just cook. Much of this modding is moot for me due to the time people are spending. I calculate my free time as higher value than my job. So I factor in my cost. say 88 dollars an hour. If I go over 6 hours on a single unit tweaking and modding, I need to get a more expensive unit plain and simple. Which is what I did...I sold the OKJ Highlander and used that same money to buy out my friend on an original unit we both went in on 21 years ago.


----------



## skunkwerx

I modded my OKJ Highland based upon my experiences with 2 other smokers.  I agree, also, it is important to cook on it, then mod based upon your experiences.   As mentioned above, if someone has an airflow problem, then chase that issue to find out why and what needs to be done to remedy the issue. 

I have owned and used wood stoves in my homes for many years.  I found that running a smoker is similar, and some of the issues and problems are similar.  Sometimes the issues and fixes are very simple, but sometimes they can be perplexing. The only time my OKJ had an airflow issue was recently,  due to an easterly breeze, the firebox was oriented 180 degrees away from the prevailing wind.

1/3rd of the way through the session I turned the Smoker around and it started running like a well tuned machine.

I suggest trying "easy" and temporary mods first, to prove out any theories, then make a permanent mod once you are confident you have found the problem and it's correction.  You can do a lot of "figuring" with aluminum foil or a disposable aluminum baking pan to fabricate a temporary baffle, or seal a hole temporarily, then see how that affects your heat and airflow.  Seeing is believing.


----------



## skunkwerx

ozsmoker said:


> i used rtv 500 foodsafe for sealing the FB and CC together, it did smell bad after the first couple of cooks (like toxic), but smell has gone away and it partially melted, but now is holding up
> 
> i kind of agree with what has been said that it's more important to start cooking with the thing, then mod it
> 
> i don't really know what the benefit of all the mods are since i don't have a reference point (unmodded) to start with
> 
> one could say that sealing things up makes the thing work worse. since i definitely don't get enough airflow through to the firebox, so sealing it up seems counterproductive. the same can probably be said for the cooking chamber, since if it is sealed up too well, then not enough air will be drawn through the smoke stack. that is of course me speculating
> 
> the only thing i will be able to see the difference in will be the convection plate, if i ever get it from horizon... that and the 4" personal fan i plan on using to blow some air into the FB


Sealing things up doesn't necessarily make things worse.  I have now "sealed up" 3 smokers over the past 20 years, each one performed better after sealing them up.  The idea is to get the heat where you need it, across your cooking grates, not have it leak out before it does it's job.

If you seal up the cooking chamber, you may, in fact increase the amount of smoke going through the stack, not decrease it.  Leaks, or leaks in the right place on the cooking chamber can slow the velocity of the air across your cooking grate, because it is escaping somewhere else.

When i sealed the cooking chamber on the OKJ, I increased the overall velocity of the smoke going out the top of the stack, which in turn, increased the air being sucked into the firebox from the outside atmosphere.  At the same exact firebox damper adjustment, I have a hotter smoker.  That was my proof. 

My best analogy is when the cooking chamber leaks, leaks enough, and/or leaks in the right places it is akin to shortening your stack length.

Exhaust gasses escape before reaching your actual stack, and air flow (velocity) is actually decreased. A shorter stack can be detrimental to your burn, just like a shorter chimney can affect a wood stove draft. 

It is an easy experiment:  fold some aluminum foil to make a temporary seal and place it anywhere you see smoke escaping around the entire cooking chamber, door, sealing area, and where the stack joins the cooking chamber.  Monitor the performance to see if this helps your flow, heat, and draw. 

Just my 2 cents on sealing the less expensive smokers out there.

Ozsmoker, I just re-read your post, it sounds like you already sealed it.  Ok, gotcha.  Other things to check are your fuel source, charcoal with moisture in it,  or wood that is not completely dry can be culprits.  Prevailing wind is another factor.   Placement too, I had my last smoker at the corner of my workshop for a while, and even on days with little or no wind i had some issues.  I moved it 20 feet away from the building and my air/draft issues disappeared.  Buildings can have an affect even on a day with extremely light winds.   Then there is the whole stack length issue...but before we go there, another thing can be if the smoker is in a low lying area.  Or in a humid, rainy climate.  Low barometric pressures also cause problems, at times.

  I guess my best suggestion at the moment, easiest to do, would be,  try moving your smoker to another location, even 25 feet away and see if it still has an air problem.  If possible a place that has a higher elevation, even a foot or two can make a difference.

Better than trying a bunch of mods first without finding the cause.  Best of Luck!


----------



## ammaturesmoker

What you say is true my friend. The convection process must be started for quality smoke to move through the unit.


----------



## skunkwerx

ammaturesmoker said:


> What you say is true my friend. The convection process must be started for quality smoke to move through the unit.


Thanks, I will also add, when reading about people experiencing an overly smokey or acrid taste, (beyond a fuel quality issue) I think it might be caused by poor airflow, and the smoke is stagnating in the cooking box, rather than moving along and out of the stack. 

This usually leaves the user thinking they have a fire or heat problem.  I think Ozsmoker is on the right path looking at his airflow, it's just a matter of diagnosing why it's not reaching that proper performance point.  By rights, using good fuel with draft opened up his smoker should fire-up and flow.

Step 1; Use quality fuel

Step 2; Start with a HOT fire

Step 3; don't throttle it back until it's plenty warmed up

I hope I'm not derailing this thread.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

Air flow is an issue on this unit though.....the top vent is no longer part of the unit. It became a victim of cheaper shipping costs. Making the firebox a two piece unit allowed them to smash the parts inside of the cook chamber for a smaller shipping size. That top vent on my original not only helps keep the fire burning but it actually helps move the air through the unit. I would strongly consider adding an air vent to the top half. You can order a Weber vent cover online for like 8 dollars. Drill 4 holes, attach and you are done.


----------



## skunkwerx

ammaturesmoker said:


> Air flow is an issue on this unit though.....the top vent is no longer part of the unit. It became a victim of cheaper shipping costs. Making the firebox a two piece unit allowed them to smash the parts inside of the cook chamber for a smaller shipping size. That top vent on my original not only helps keep the fire burning but it actually helps move the air through the unit. I would strongly consider adding an air vent to the top half. You can order a Weber vent cover online for like 8 dollars. Drill 4 holes, attach and you are done.


Interesting. Mine is one of the newer ones with no top vent.  

After doing my mods: homemade SS convection plate/baffle, lowering the stack inlet inside of cooking chamber,  and sealing,  I seem to have a nice air flow and stable heat across my grates.

I will make an educated guess and say that people have benefited from the baffle between the FB and CC, not only in a more balanced Left to Right CC heat,

but also, the baffle may be creating a venturi effect which is increasing air velocity?

Just a guess on my part.

Are there any pictures of the older models with the top air inlet?


----------



## skunkwerx

Interesting. Mine is one of the newer ones with no top vent.  

After doing my mods: homemade SS convection plate/baffle, lowering the stack inlet inside of cooking chamber,  and sealing,  I seem to have a nice air flow and stable heat across my grates.

I will make an educated guess and say that people have benefited from the baffle between the FB and CC, not only in a more balanced Left to Right CC heat,

but also, the baffle may be creating a venturi effect which is increasing air velocity?

Just a guess on my part.

Are there any pictures of the older models with the top air inlet?

FYI  not sure what' up with forum saying my post was deleted?  apologies if i double responded.


----------



## dontknowsquat

THood said:


> I did mine wen it was new and making some other mods that made disassembly necessary anyway, so that's how I did it. However I have to say I'm not sure how much it was worth. The temp between the firebox and cook chamber gets hot enough to burn out the RTV anyway, plus it was a pretty tight fit to begin with. Frankly I think we spend way to much time, talk and money on sealing up the smoker. Except for the firebox to control the air flow and temperature I really don't see the benefit of sealing up the cook chamber in the final product. I've had some great Q from some funny looking cookers, even a 55 gal drum. Of course you don't want smoke leaking out all over the place but trying to seal every tiny leak in the cook chamber isn't critical to the outcome. The OKJ is pretty good just the way it comes. I'm sure some others will disagree but the proof is in the food.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tony


I did one cook on it without any mods and it turned out okay other than the temp being off in the cooking chamber from one end to another by about 25 degrees. The thing is I already bought the RTV so I may as well use it!


----------



## dontknowsquat

SkunkWerX said:


> Jon,
> 
> I think the higher quality way to your RTV job is, to disassemble, then RTV between the firebox and cooking chamber.  Make sure to use High Temp RTV,  there are several flavors that will say "High" but read the fine print for the higher temperature stuff.  You will see pics, I think even early in this thread, showing how they apply the RTV around the perimeter and around each bolt hole.  You can also place a bead on the outside, on top, where the two assemblies meet to prevent any moisture from weeping down into that crack.
> 
> I assembled mine brand new, then less than a week later dropped the firebox and RTV'd it.  Wish I had done it during first assembly, but, glad I took the extra time to disassemble.
> 
> I don't regret it a bit.  Good luck!


The RTV I bought is good for 500 (up to 600 in spurts and it said it was food safe). I was afraid you were going to say disassemble it! Haha 

Thank you for the tips. 

-Jon


----------



## skunkwerx

Look at it this way,  its only 6 bolts? or 8?    Hint:  make a small table, like with cinder blocks or something,

directly under the firebox, unbolt, and set it down just a few inches on your makeshift table.

Move it away just enough to apply the RTV around the opening, and around each bolt hole, then bolt it back up.

Won't take as much time and effort as you may think.

The longer you let it cure before firing it, the better.  if they say 24 hours for full cure, make it 48 or 72, then do a firing (without food!)

In fact, for the first part of the firing leave the Firebox and Cook chamber lids open, in case there is any RTV out gassing. 

Mine did not have any smell after curing or during first firing.

Mine also had a wide temperature variance from Left to Right.  I built a SS convection plate and baffle,  it's now very well balanced. 

In fact, I had both sides sit right at 250 for a good 30 minutes straight, it's that close now.

Good luck!


----------



## thood

DONTKNOWSQUAT said:


> I did one cook on it without any mods and it turned out okay other than the temp being off in the cooking chamber from one end to another by about 25 degrees. The thing is I already bought the RTV so I may as well use it!


Yeah, for sure it's not going to hurt anything.  It just may not help anything.  That temp differential can be addressed by a deflector plate, or like I did with a series of deflectors placed along the bottom grates.  That deflection along with good air flow control to control the temps are probably the key mods to cooking some good Q.


----------



## skunkwerx

THood said:


> That temp differential can be addressed by a deflector plate, or like I did with a series of deflectors placed along the bottom grates.  That deflection along with good air flow control to control the temps are probably the key mods to cooking some good Q.


----------



## dontknowsquat

THood said:


> Yeah, for sure it's not going to hurt anything.  It just may not help anything.  That temp differential can be addressed by a deflector plate, or like I did with a series of deflectors placed along the bottom grates.  That deflection along with good air flow control to control the temps are probably the key mods to cooking some good Q.


Thanks so much to you and SkunkWerX for your help. One last question, what did you use for the deflector plate? I was looking at different mods and I see that there is a pre-made tuning plate you can get from bbqsmokermods.com, but I don't want to pay the $90 bucks they are asking for it. Keep in mind that I can be a DIYer, but I have no prior experience in welding or metal work.

Here is the tuner plate I am talking about.

http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ok-hor-tune-hl.htm


----------



## thood

DONTKNOWSQUAT said:


> Thanks so much to you and SkunkWerX for your help. One last question, what did you use for the deflector plate? I was looking at different mods and I see that there is a pre-made tuning plate you can get from bbqsmokermods.com, but I don't want to pay the $90 bucks they are asking for it. Keep in mind that I can be a DIYer, but I have no prior experience in welding or metal work.
> 
> Here is the tuner plate I am talking about.
> 
> http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ok-hor-tune-hl.htm















IMG_0854.JPG



__ thood
__ Apr 23, 2015


















IMG_0855.JPG



__ thood
__ Apr 23, 2015






This is what I use.  Like you, I didn't want to pay a bunch of money for a plate with holes in it.  And I didn't really want to sit down and cut all those holes.  This is way is cheap and it works.  And it's totally adjustable.  You can space the plates any way you want to achieve the heat deflection.  These plate are available right off the shelf at Home Depot, no cutting or drilling.  I'm thinking they were around $15.  I'm sure the plate is really nice and professional looking, but like I always say, it's not about the looks, it's about the taste.


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## dontknowsquat

THood said:


> IMG_0854.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ thood
> __ Apr 23, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0855.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> __ thood
> __ Apr 23, 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I use.  Like you, I didn't want to pay a bunch of money for a plate with holes in it.  And I didn't really want to sit down and cut all those holes.  This is way is cheap and it works.  And it's totally adjustable.  You can space the plates any way you want to achieve the heat deflection.  These plate are available right off the shelf at Home Depot, no cutting or drilling.  I'm thinking they were around $15.  I'm sure the plate is really nice and professional looking, but like I always say, it's not about the looks, it's about the taste.


Indeed, thanks again for all of the great information!


----------



## ammaturesmoker

SkunkWerX said:


> Interesting. Mine is one of the newer ones with no top vent.
> 
> After doing my mods: homemade SS convection plate/baffle, lowering the stack inlet inside of cooking chamber,  and sealing,  I seem to have a nice air flow and stable heat across my grates.
> 
> I will make an educated guess and say that people have benefited from the baffle between the FB and CC, not only in a more balanced Left to Right CC heat,
> 
> but also, the baffle may be creating a venturi effect which is increasing air velocity?
> 
> Just a guess on my part.
> 
> Are there any pictures of the older models with the top air inlet?


It's all one piece on the older vents.Like this one in the picture.

 













IMG_0107.JPG



__ ammaturesmoker
__ Jan 19, 2017


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## skunkwerx

I cheated. 

A friend of mine is the sheet metal guru, is in thr business and even does architectural roofing restoration.

So I used leftovers in 18ga. SS sheet to fabricate my convection plate and FB baffle.  It's been raining last two days, I'll snap some pics when I am able.

Drilled approx.100 holes from 3/16" up to 1" with a drill press and good sharp bits.


----------



## ozsmoker

Anyone know if it's possible to hookup​ a rotisserie to this smoker (highland)?

I don't want to have to buy another thing that takes up the very limited space I have (eg a spit roaster)


----------



## skunkwerx

ozsmoker said:


> Anyone know if it's possible to hookup​ a rotisserie to this smoker (highland)?
> 
> I don't want to have to buy another thing that takes up the very limited space I have (eg a spit roaster)


I don't think the OKJ is manufactured for a "drop in" rotisserie. I don't see aything on their website.

I do see some aftermarket rotisserie kits on line, you'd have to drill holes and set-up for your own installation.  Also, grill spits have shorter rods.  I did see an aftermarket 42" rod by itself. 

With some planning and proper execution it seems like a possibility.


----------



## ammaturesmoker

22 inches takes up too much room?


----------



## ozsmoker

I'm talking a spit roaster, for larger pieces of meat. Not just a chicken or two


----------



## broncoblair

Hey guys. Pellet guy here most of my smoking life... Just bought one of these guys and am going to start modding it.. One thing I am worried about though.. I assembled today and I used 3M RTV someone mentioned earlier in the thread. I had been on another forum that suggested RTV at Home Depot, I had no idea it needed to be food safe. Now I am too worried to cook anything, Im assuming if i call 3M they will tell me it isn't food safe. Has anyone else used this RTV and had any issues? I'm dreading having to disassemble and somehow get this crap off, but Ill do it if it is going to poison me.


----------



## skunkwerx

broncoblair said:


> Hey guys. Pellet guy here most of my smoking life... Just bought one of these guys and am going to start modding it.. One thing I am worried about though.. I assembled today and I used 3M RTV someone mentioned earlier in the thread. I had been on another forum that suggested RTV at Home Depot, I had no idea it needed to be food safe. Now I am too worried to cook anything, Im assuming if i call 3M they will tell me it isn't food safe. Has anyone else used this RTV and had any issues? I'm dreading having to disassemble and somehow get this crap off, but Ill do it if it is going to poison me.


"Food Safe" is a strict designation.  It means the product, it's source material, and how it's produced meets tight FDA standards, which include coming into contact with the food, itself.   I don't think anyone here is going to flat-out tell you it's 100% OK,  because everyone usually errs on the side of safety and caution.

In the case of RTVs/Silicones they have to cure, which involves outgassing of the curing agent, most people have smelled this if they have used it, and I wouldn't want it wafting over my food.  But that is curing.  Then most people do a test firing after curing.  If there is anything else noxious left over, probably small traces at most, a hot fire will "probably" see to it that it is cured to it's final stage, and probably be coated with some smoke too.

It probably wouldn't hurt to call 3M, being a large company, they will probably have someone who can answer your question.

My thinking is if you used it to seal up your firebox, cured it, test fired,  and it won't be coming into direct contact with your food,  or even be in the cooking chamber, it might be OK?   But, again, no one is going to just say "go for it" because it does involve food, and none of us would want anyone to have a problem.

Suggestion: call 3M, and tell them it's not coming into contact with Food itself,  and see what they say?

Hint: if you ask a company in the wrong manner; "Is this food safe"  they MUST say "NO" to protect themselves.

It's all in how you approach it.

Good luck, let us know what they say, please.


----------



## ricer2231

Hello all. I just purchased my first OK Joe Highland (used) and can't wait to fire it up.  This thread is amazing and has a ton of good info. I am in the process of making a tuning plate and a charcoal box now as the two mods I want to do first. The tuning plate I am making is going to be made of 1/8" plate and bolt in with the FB bolts. Question is, should I just go ahead and remove the other bolts to break it apart and seal the connection or just let it be?


----------



## sauced

I did not bolt my convection plate in, just slid it up against the firebox opening. Works perfectly.

You could unbolt the fire box, but try it with the plate unbolted first, then decide if you want to do the extra work.


----------



## bluecrush

I just picked one up and did the following mods:
Nomex around the SB lid and in-between the SB and FB
Welded flat stock around the FB opening to help regulate air intake
Fabbed up a baffle plate from a diamond plate ramp flap from work
Made a heavy duty FB grate and a charcoal basket
Last but not least, they screwed up my exhaust angle and it looked stupid. Soooo I made my own from left over exhaust pipe from my car (3.5")


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## bluecrush

Finished up my basket and hot temp coated the exhaust tonight


----------



## hardcookin

Some nice looking mods! Can't wait see your first smoke.


----------



## usmcsmoke

I have a question that may sound stupid. I just purchased a Highland. I've done all the mods and love it. My question is this. Has anyone used the cooking chamber for grilling large volumes of hamburgers, hotdogs, etc. What are pros and cons.


----------



## bluecrush

usmcsmoke said:


> I have a question that may sound stupid. I just purchased a Highland. I've done all the mods and love it. My question is this. Has anyone used the cooking chamber for grilling large volumes of hamburgers, hotdogs, etc. What are pros and cons.



I plan on doing some chicken that way soon, I'll let ya know how it goes.


----------



## bluecrush

I'm getting my temps off by about 15-20 degrees from end to end using my baffle plate, but it's hotter by the exhaust instead of the firebox.
 Should I enlarge the holes closest to the firebox a tad bigger? Seems like that would allow heat to rise and help balance things out.


----------



## sauced

Yes I did 15 steaks and it went very well!!


----------



## hardcookin

Bluecrush said:


> I'm getting my temps off by about 15-20 degrees from end to end using my baffle plate, but it's hotter by the exhaust instead of the firebox.
> Should I enlarge the holes closest to the firebox a tad bigger? Seems like that would allow heat to rise and help balance things out.



I think that 15-20 degrees is pretty good. You could drill bigger holes but it might not guarantee temps will be any better. Sometimes changing the level of the smoker will change the temp slightly from end to end. It's just something you have to play with.


----------



## ricer2231

I have these thermometers in route to install in my OKJ Highland lid by the cooking surface and was wondering if you guys would happen to know what size hole I need. 













IMG_1529.PNG



__ ricer2231
__ Jun 9, 2017


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## ammaturesmoker

You seem to have some pretty good skills. Why are you wasting time on a POS rice cooker like these? I would bet you can make your own cooker.


----------



## xray

Well I fired up my Highland this weekend for the first time.  Overall, I think it went quite well considering I'm new to offsets.

My question is, I used the included FB grill grates as a deflector. I wrapped them in foil and wedged one at an angle at the cook chamber opening and the second was butted against....I had a 20 difference between both ends of the CC, is that good? Or should I start thinking about buying a baffle?

As for other mods, I sealed with RTV and used gaskets on the doors.  I also made a charcoal basket and extended the smoke stack to grate level with a 3" elbow....I removed and re-installed the elbow during the seasoning, I didnt notice aby difference in temps across the grates.


----------



## dangerneck

Hello everyone!

I'm new to this forum and it's great! You guys have so much great information to share and I hope I can help out too! I've been grilling and smoking for 20+ years and my (dubious) claim to fame is being able to make just about every cooking unit work for me regardless of what I come across where ever I happen to be. I was also a professional chef for 12 of those years, whatever that means...

I just bought the Highland and have read every post in this thread. I think I've decided to use 1/4 inch stove rope with high temp cement (1200 Degree Freedom Units)  to seal the FB and some brick baffles in the tank with a tinfoil bread pan filled with water right in front of the FB opening. Also going to make a fire basket with some extruded steel I have from a jerky dehydrator project. Lastly, I'll lower the exhaust with an elbow joint. 

I haven't used the unit yet but I did wipe the whole outside down with with WD-40, and now it's so shiny...we'll see how long that lasts after my first cook.

Something has been bothering me, though. I first saw the OKJ Highland at Home Despot for $269 and was impressed by the quality and thickness of the steel. Being a conscientious consumer I checked around and found one at the Lowe's for $200, so I bought it. Now, I may be crazy, but I'm sure that the one at Home Despot is slightly thicker gauge steel that the one I bought! I have the one with the hideous logo. The one at HD has the old? gold colored logo. Does anyone know if they are the same gauge steel or if there are any other differences worth knowing about?

I'll post pics of any mods I do as well as my seasoning here this weekend. Also, I'll document my first cook this 4th of July in hopes of shamelessly fishing for critiques, complements, ideas, and gentle ribbing (get it? ribbing?)... and, I'll show myself out.


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## ammaturesmoker

Great choice on selecting the rope. When the wd-40 dries out, use cooking oil. None of those are thicker than the other....they are made from rolled plated steel. Each plate has been measured and pre-cut. All the same coming out of the factory. Now as for you waiting for the 4th, have you seasoned this thing yet? Also best to do some practice runs before you start with a bang.


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## ericgautier

Dangerneck said:


> ..I've decided to use 1/4 inch stove rope with high temp cement (1200 Degree Freedom Units)  to seal the FB..


Congrats on the new smoker. Can you direct me to the product(s) you used? I'm looking to do the same to mine. Thanks!

I'm also a new member to the team. Got my OKJ Highland last weekend. I have done 2 mods to it so far: 1) heat deflector plate to reduce the opening from FB to CC 2) extended smoke stack to grate level.

Temps are much stable now.













Xrt4fST.jpg



__ ericgautier
__ Jun 28, 2017


















uY6ifnB.jpg



__ ericgautier
__ Jun 28, 2017


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## ammaturesmoker

If you are using a deflection plate, several sources are saying to not bring down the exhaust to grate level.


----------



## ericgautier

Thanks for the input!

I'll remove it and see what kind of temps I get on the left side.

I am close left to right right now. Up and down, within 20 deg from the lid therm vs grate probe (much better than my initial run w/o any mods showing 50-60 difference up and down).

Definitely willing to try anything. :)


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## ammaturesmoker

http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ll-stck-lwr-3.htm see the message in red....now I know it says their plates, but willing its the same for most.


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## ericgautier

ammaturesmoker said:


> http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ll-stck-lwr-3.htm see the message in red....now I know it says their plates, but willing its the same for most.


I think that recommendation is for a full baffle plate.

I only have this kind - https://statich.smokingmeatforums.com/0/01/900x900px-LL-0133e8c5_8.jpeg

But either way, I am curious and will test temps w/o the exhaust stack extended. If I get same temps as with, then that gives me back some real estate. :)


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## ammaturesmoker

ericgautier said:


> I think that recommendation is for a full baffle plate.
> 
> I only have this kind - https://statich.smokingmeatforums.com/0/01/900x900px-LL-0133e8c5_8.jpeg
> 
> But either way, I am curious and will test temps w/o the exhaust stack extended. If I get same temps as with, then that gives me back some real estate. :)


gotcha


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## smokingtexas

Quick questions. I've read the thread, but just a bit confused on how wide I should make the DIY heat dispensing plates. I have the Highland version, and can't get it to measure for sure before I need to head to HD or else I wouldn't be asking such a silly question.

How wide should the pieces that are being laid flat be? I see the length will be 5-6", but I seem have to seen various widths. I want to get a full sheet and cut it as it seems a lot cheaper that way. Also, steel or aluminum, and what gauge?


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## smokingtexas

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-in-x-18-in-16-Gauge-Plain-Steel-Sheet-Metal-801467/204225705

Is this safe to use?


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## OttawaIrishGuy

Can someone help me out please. I am in the market for a new smoker and I am considering an Oklahoma Joe. The thing is I don't believe they are readily available in Canada to go look at one in person. That being said also it would be out of season for most big box stores to have BBQ's and Smokers.

What I was hoping, was someone could tell me what is the measurement from outside of the wheel rim to the outside of the other wheel rim. And is this the widest part of the legs. I have a spot for what ever my new smoker is going to be but it's a raised platform and I am not sure it is wide enough for the Joe.

Thanks in advance.


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## meatallica

OK Joe Highland 28- 1/2"


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## ammaturesmoker

OttawaIrishGuy said:


> Can someone help me out please. I am in the market for a new smoker and I am considering an Oklahoma Joe. The thing is I don't believe they are readily available in Canada to go look at one in person. That being said also it would be out of season for most big box stores to have BBQ's and Smokers.
> 
> What I was hoping, was someone could tell me what is the measurement from outside of the wheel rim to the outside of the other wheel rim. And is this the widest part of the legs. I have a spot for what ever my new smoker is going to be but it's a raised platform and I am not sure it is wide enough for the Joe.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Does Canada even allow you to burn wood splits? I have a friend that lives in the Canadian Rockies and he said they don't even allow them to use pellets in some areas.


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## OttawaIrishGuy

Yes, where I am as long as there is no burn ban being enforced by a local municipality. Which only happens normally a couple of weeks a year in the summer.


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## OttawaIrishGuy

no one can help out?


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## ammaturesmoker

OttawaIrishGuy said:


> no one can help out?


There are five models of OKJ. He needs to specify the model.


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## meatallica

OttawaIrishGuy said:


> no one can help out?


I believe I did help out.. Check post #253


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## OttawaIrishGuy

My apologies meatallica you did, I didn't see it. I got a notification about the post after yours which I followed through the email which meant I went straight past yours! Thanks for that much appreciated, sadly where I planned to put it is to narrow. Will have to look at other smokers, most likely a vertical one now.

amaturesmoker, the fact that the thread title is "New - Oklahoma Joe's *Highland* Smoker", I thought it was a given which one I was referring too, sorry that you were confused.


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## Berettaclayshooter

I have the highland reverse flow model, The two most important things I have done to help my unit run better was to rotate the fire grate.  This raises it up from 2" to 4" and gives better air flow.  The next was I made a new stack which drastically improved flow and I now can have a 'clean" burning fire.\

The gasketing and clamps do stuff, but those two I mentioned have done more than anything.  I also use a 9"x13" cake pan under the heat baffles, against the firebox inlet to help control temps and give some moisture to the air along with a loaf pan on both ends of the cookchamber.

  I would also warn against the Doyzant gauges from amazon... the reason they are cheap is for a reason.  I will be replacing mine with tel-tru ones.


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## PoutineEater

O
 OttawaIrishGuy
, 
Duder!! FFS Try harder. Google the thing and you'll find it.   I did. 

Me! Went to Lowes and stole a tape to measure it before jamming the $550 thing in to the prius.   Sorry.  I don't have that crap nor paid $550 years ago.





OttawaIrishGuy said:


> Can someone help me out please. I am in the market for a new smoker and I am considering an Oklahoma Joe. The thing is I don't believe they are readily available in Canada to go look at one in person. That being said also it would be out of season for most big box stores to have BBQ's and Smokers.
> 
> What I was hoping, was someone could tell me what is the measurement from outside of the wheel rim to the outside of the other wheel rim. And is this the widest part of the legs. I have a spot for what ever my new smoker is going to be but it's a raised platform and I am not sure it is wide enough for the Joe.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


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## MNholla

This has been a very informative thread to say the least! I am looking to move away from my Chargiller 5050 and get a dedicated smoker and think that the OK Joe Highland is going to be the one


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## RiversideSm0ker

I love my OKJ Highland but my view is a bit skewed by the ridiculously low price I paid. Mine was only $75 at Walmart on closeout near Christmas time. At 200lbs, I figure the materials and shipping would have to warrant a price higher than that. I am not going to complain. She has never let me down yet. Sure there are a lot better offset smokers out there but not for $75. Eventually, I do want to buy a real deal offset made from 1/4" steel but for now, I am more than happy to smoke my barbecue on my OKJ. Now if I could just afford some meat to put in the thing that would be awesome!

G


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## BadJewBBQ

Hey folks,

Thanks to everyone who has shared their tips and tricks so far. I have really enjoyed the process of optimizing this hunk of metal. Most of the mods have been from BBQSmokerMods (lava lock). The comprehensive list so far includes (in the order listed):

1. Baffle/Deflector with the matching water pan
2. Drilled two ports for temp probes and fitted with a probe gasket thing for each
3. Gaskets and latches on the cook chamber
4. Gaskets and silicone sealant on the firebox
5. Replacement steel grates (I wish I had found expanded metal but I have these now and they do just fine)
6. Installed BBQ guru bulkhead adapter on the far side of the firebox (which will be used with the billows by Thermoworks with their universal adapter)
7. Fiberglass high temp "tadpole" gasket to seal the side door of the firebox

Given items 1-5 are more or less plug and play I'll skip ahead to 6/7. I wanted to be able to automate at least a portion of the cook without blocking the native intake. To provide this flexibility I chose to put the fan opposite the intake -- I had come across a few videos with this fan positioning and while theoretical, I can convince myself it MIGHT lessen the chances of ash being blown into the CC by the fan. I purchased the BBQ guru bulkhead adapter because it comes with a silicone "kill plug" that is positioned a small distance away from the firebox. I contemplated drilling the hole to directly attach the billows and use an appropriately sized silicone plug, but I would have been concerned that the high temperatures might melt the plug. Probably overkill to do it this way but I think it looks pretty clean and in theory should work.

I sealed the side door because I didn't want a crosswind effect with the fan on that might result in air pointlessly blowing across the bottom of the firebox. Again probably overthinking it but it was an itch I needed to scratch. I have zero welding abilities and I am by no means a handyman, so basically if I can do this so can you.  I bought some 22 gauge sheet metal at Home Depot and a cheap pair of aviation or tin snips and measured and cut some strips. I then drilled through the firebox and sheet metal as pictured and used the metal strips to pin the tadpole gasket in place. Probably not as clean looking as welding but I'm happy with it. As other posters have mentioned I rotated the grate 90 degrees and now there is about 4 inches of clearance beneath to help with air flow as well.

Thanks and hopefully this is of use to someone.


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## RiversideSm0ker

I like those steel cooking grates. Where did you pick those up from? I could be interested in those.

G


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## BadJewBBQ

LavaLock® Highland Cooking Grates - Heavy Duty Steel Replacement Set
					

LavaLock® heavy duty steel cooking grates are a great replacement for your Ok Joe Highland cooking grates. Set includes 2 grates. These are 10 gauge and weigh almost 15 lbs!  2 identical grates. 16-5/8




					bbqsmokermods.com
				




probably cheaper ways to accomplish this but I’m not a big fan of the ones that came with it


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