# Cheap Sous Vide Immersion Circulator



## molove

I know this is slightly off topic, I came across an immersion circulator for sous vide for £99 + vat including next day delivery. Which struck me as a very good deal.

If you are interested here's the link:

http://www.ecateringonline.co.uk//v...ecial-offer-lowest-price-in-the-uk-2208-p.asp

I couldn't resist so ordered one yesterday and it arrived today.

I picked up a rolled brisket from Makro and have seasoned it and vacpacked it with a couple of tablespoons of smoked beef dripping (from Saturday's smoked beef short ribs). It has just gone into the water bath at 55ºC (131ºF) and will be there for 72 hours, this should take it to medium rare. When it comes out on Saturday I shall sear it at very high temps on the kamado like I would a steak.

This is my first time cooking brisket sous vide so I'm looking forward to Saturday.

Here's some photos













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__ molove
__ Jan 6, 2016


















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__ molove
__ Jan 6, 2016


















2016-01-06 18.06.31.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 6, 2016






I'll report back on Saturday

Piers


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## thenegativeone

Looks good! I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out.


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## osprey2

Keep us informed


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## mummel

Never seen brisket sous vide.  Very cool.  It can turn stringly (like pulled pork) if you leave it too long.  Need pics after the final sear!


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## dirtsailor2003

Sounds interesting. Will be interested to see how it turns out texture wise at the lower finishing temp.


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## molove

mummel said:


> Never seen brisket sous vide.  Very cool.  It can turn stringly (like pulled pork) if you leave it too long.  Need pics after the final sear!


The theory is it won't overcook because the internal temperature will never go above 55ºC (131ºF), the collogen will breakdown though at this temperature over a long period of time, hence the long cook. AFAIK the result should be medium rare that's really tender with all the taste of brisket.

I have heard that meat that's been cooked too long sous vide can go a bit mushy but it is generally tender cuts that do that.
 

I came across this on YouTube
 



Roll on Saturday!


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## smokin monkey

That looks like a bargain!

When we do large catering jobs, I use Sous Vide method.

I have done Brisket and Pork Shoulder for Pulled Pork. Season meats then add about 2 Tbs of liquid smoke. You will find not to over season/flavour food, because as the name Sous Vide means Under Pressure, the flavours become intense. Garlic is a very strong flavour.

My experience, meats like chicken etc go mushy, as the texture to start with is more delicate than Brisket etc.

I cooked all our Christmas meats Sous Vide style this year, so easy, Turkey Crown into vac bag, smeared with butter, S&P and Orange Zest, over night in the Sous Vide @ 67'C, then a piece of uncooked Ham, left in the store wrapper, same temperature for about 6-7 hours. 

Also when doing events, sausages etc,  all lined ups in vac bags, Sous Vide, then into a cooler box covered with a towel. Then when on site and ready to serve, cut bag straight onto BBQ for colouring only as they are cooked. Best moist sausage and burgers you can get. Top class Restaurants do this every service, so why not use this method on the road.


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## molove

Smokin Monkey said:


> I have done Brisket and Pork Shoulder for Pulled Pork. Season meats then add about 2 Tbs of liquid smoke. You will find not to over season/flavour food, because as the name Sous Vide means Under Pressure, the flavours become intense


What temperature do you set the water bath for these, and how long do you cook them for?


Smokin Monkey said:


> I cooked all our Christmas meats Sous Vide style this year, so easy, Turkey Crown into vac bag, smeared with butter, S&P and Orange Zest, over night in the Sous Vide @ 67'C, then a piece of uncooked Ham, left in the store wrapper, same temperature for about 6-7 hours.


How did you finish the turkey breast, did you do something to crisp up the skin?


Smokin Monkey said:


> Also when doing events, sausages etc, all lined ups in vac bags, Sous Vide, then into a cooler box covered with a towel. Then when on site and ready to serve, cut bag straight onto BBQ for colouring only as they are cooked. Best moist sausage and burgers you can get.


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## smokin monkey

I cook Brisket @ 56.6'C, 134F for 48 Hours
Pulled Pork @ 65'C, 149F for 36 Hours.

Just removed the skin, because it's like low and slow its rubbery, you can brown in large pan or with a blow torch.

Never had a problem with tough skins, so it could be the skins.


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## molove

Pulled one of the brisket pieces out of the water bath on Saturday evening after 72 hours.













2016-01-09 19.29.12.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 10, 2016






Took it out of vacpac and dried it off, and seared it on the kamado at about 450ºC for a couple of minutes.













2016-01-09 19.42.59.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 10, 2016






Unfortunately for me it was a bit tough and chewy, the collogen still hadn't broken down enough. (The missus thought it was lovely though)

I left the other piece in the water bath for another 24 hours (96 total) and  seared it tonight.













2016-01-10 20.25.24.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 10, 2016






This was much better, the collogen had broken down and the meat was very tender.

I was very surprised that it took so long to tenderise. I think the next one I will cook in a higher temperature water bath.


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## baz senior

I can't remember what it is, but when hot smoking there a temperature called the Plateau, when it's cooking it seems to stall at this temp, but this is the point in the cook where the proteins and collagen's are denaturing and changing to yumminess. It might be you need a slightly higher temp or as you say, give it a bit more time.

Ironically, the Sous Vide method seems to be dropping off rapidly in the restaurant trade, they have moved on to the next trendy fad, I have my beady eye on a small unloved sous vide bath. I'll keep an eye open to see how you get on and whether or not you rate this method for cooking joints like Brisket this way.


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## mummel

How was the texture?


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## mummel

BTW - I've got my eye on this baby.  The way it's designed, I'll be able to throw it in my cooler and seal the lid.  Like that idea: https://www.chefsteps.com/joule


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## wade

It looks like a nice piece of kit at the right price. I will give one a go I think. Thanks for sharing


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## mummel

Wade said:


> It looks like a nice piece of kit at the right price. I will give one a go I think. Thanks for sharing


I'll probably wait for the price to drop and see the reviews.  There may be bugs in v1 but if not, I'm going to get one.


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## molove

mummel said:


> How was the texture?


Once I'd let it have the extra 24 hours he texture was fine, like roast beef. It was a completely different beast from smoked brisket. I wasn't a very good piece of meat tbh, just a cheap rolled brisket joint made almost entirely from the flat, that I unrolled. There was almost no fat at all on it so was never going to be as succulent as a decent piece of meat.


Wade said:


> It looks like a nice piece of kit at the right price. I will give one a go I think. Thanks for sharing


I'm really pleased with it. I had been using a temperature controlled slow cooker previously, this is much better, it maintains the temperature to within a couple of tenths of a degree C. And I can use it with different sized containers depending on what I'm cooking.

I just need to find some good recipes to play with but there are plenty resources online for me to look at. I do like the ChefSteps site, they have quite a few sous vide videos. And sousvidesupreme.com has a large repository of recipes - I'm particularly fond of the confit duck leg recipe.

Do make sure the water level doesn't drop below minimum due to evaporation else the unit will display an error and turn itself off.


mummel said:


> I'll probably wait for the price to drop and see the reviews.  There may be bugs in v1 but if not, I'm going to get one.


I'd be surprised if the price did come down tbh. The cheap models that are available in the states are about $200 and up. This model is re-branded in the States as the VacMaster SV1and sells for £280 on Amazon.

It seems that quite a few people who bought the VacMaster version didn't read instructions and complained about it constantly beeping. Actually afaik the beep is to tell you that the water is up to temperature and it's time to add the food and press the "Play" button to start the timer, it only bleeps again when time is up. I certainly had no issues with any beeping.


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## molove

mummel said:


> I'll probably wait for the price to drop and see the reviews.  There may be bugs in v1 but if not, I'm going to get one.


Doh! I only just realised you are in the States. I was waxing lyrical because this is incredibly cheap for the UK, where most items are a lot more expensive than the US.

You should check out the Anova, the Sansaire and the Nomiku immersion circulators which aren't readily available in the UK, they are all about $200. I don't think I'd spend the extra on the VacMaster unless you needed to cook large amounts.

http://anovaculinary.com/

https://sansaire.com/

http://www.nomiku.com/


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## molove

The ChefSeps Smokerless Smoked Brisket recipe looks interesting



but to be honest when I eventually manage to get hold of a packer brisket, it's going straight in the smoker!


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## mummel

molove said:


> The ChefSeps Smokerless Smoked Brisket recipe looks interesting
> 
> 
> 
> but to be honest when I eventually manage to get hold of a packer brisket, it's going straight in the smoker!



Im with you.  No store sells them in my area.  I've emailed Costco customer service twice.


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## smokin phil

.


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## wade

Wade said:


> It looks like a nice piece of kit at the right price. I will give one a go I think. Thanks for sharing


It arrived a couple of days ago - I used it to warm some pulled pork last night and I am trying it out with some chicken and pork tonight. Hope to post some photos over the weekend. So far I have been impressed with it but it is still early days...


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## mummel

Sweet!  Glad to help.  Did you try it in a cooler and sealing the lid?


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## wade

As a quick test I simply used the body of my pressure canner. Even though the pot was round the easy-to-fit clamp fitted perfectly. As there is a large surface area for heat loss, in order to give it the best chance as maintaining temperature I used some tin foil as a lid. I found that the heater was powerful enough though and it wasn't actually required. For speed of testing I did assist it to initially get the water up to temperature with the gas hob, but even before I did that it was steadily heating the water from cold on its own.













SV Working 1.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 15, 2016


















SV Working 2.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 15, 2016


















SV Temperature settings.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 15, 2016






The settings were simplicity themselves. A button to toggle between C and F, Temperature up and down, cooking time up and down, start and stop. Once at temperature it kept the water to within 0.2 Deg C for the two hour cook, which I regularly confirmed using my Thermapen.

For the testing I used some chicken breasts (marinated in a Chinese style sweet sauce) and some pork loin steaks (with a herb crumb). Both were from the reduced shelf at my local Tesco supermarket. These flavours were not selected for any particular reason other than they were there and were inexpensive. For suggested cooking times I used the information here. They use the USDA Pasteurisation tables for calculating the minimum required cooking times at different temperatures.

http://www.seriouseats.com/2015/07/the-food-lab-complete-guide-to-sous-vide-chicken-breast.html

For eating hot they recommend 140-150 F (60-65.6 C), and for cold slicing 150 F (65.6 C). I used 65 C for 2 hours (the minimum required safe cooking time being 2.8 minutes).

After the 2 hours the bags were taken out and the contents examined













After Cooked.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 15, 2016






Still in the vac packs the chicken looked like cooked chicken 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





  but the pork slices did not look much different to when they went in. I think that this was due to the herb crumb that was on the outside. There was a little juice in the bottom of each bag but this was minimal.

When cut open the chicken looked perfectly cooked and the meat was juicy, soft and silky, with a little of the traditional soft stingy texture starting to form. It melted quickly in the mouth but also still had a good texture. The flavours of the Chinese sweet marinade were intense but not to the point of being unpleasant.













Chicken Cut.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 15, 2016






When cut the pork was also cooked well. The texture was soft and juicy and it too melted in the mouth. The herb flavours were intense and it was even possible to identify the individual herbs that were used in the coating. It tasted amazing.













Pork sliced 2.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 15, 2016






On it's first real run I was impressed with the way the Sous Vide unit operated, and at £99 I think that it is excellent value for money.


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## molove

Hi Wade

Glad you are pleased with the circulator. I thought it was a bargain at £99+

I've never tried cooking chicken breast sous vide, but that does look good. I've had good success with sous vide duck confit http://blog.sousvidesupreme.com/2012/07/bill-the-butchers-sous-vide-duck-confit/ and it also works with whole chicken legs too.

I don't know how accurate my thermometers are so would be interested to learn if there was any discrepancy between the circulator's temp gauge and the thermapen.

I find that the hot water out of my tap is about 54ºC and the circulator only takes a couple of minutes to bring it up another 10º or so.

I have an 11 litre pan I bought to brew beer with that is no longer used for that (I now have a 50L boil kettle) which seems perfect for the circulator, the lid is just thin steel so I cut a slot in it (I have other lids that also fit this pan so it's not a problem if I need the pan for other uses)













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__ molove
__ Jan 16, 2016


















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__ molove
__ Jan 16, 2016






Apart from the brisket the other day I have only tried cooking eggs with it, which I think I need to experiment a bit more with as they are quite different from an egg cooked in boiling water.

I tried one at 63ºC which was all a bit runny for me, I then increased the temperature to 68ºC and cooked another egg, this one the yolk was a bit too firm for me.

I used ChefSteps egg calculator

https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/the-egg-calculator


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## smokin monkey

Glad to see you guys enjoying your Sous Vide machines!

Nice app available from the App Store, SousVideDash.













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__ smokin monkey
__ Jan 17, 2016






Choose the meat, the cut, the thickness then how you would like it cooked (rear, medium rear etc) and it will tell you cook time etc.


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## wade

Thanks Steve. I couldn't find that one on Android but I have downloaded another. I am trying the Sunday beef joint in it today.


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## baz senior

That looks fantastic, I read the link you put up, it's a interesting read. Again it takes time and experience to get it right, but it does look juicy.


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## wade

I had a roasting beef joint in the freezer that I bought from the supermarket "reduced" fridge a few weeks ago so instead of the FEC-120 I thought I would give the Sous Vide heater a try. Some of the people we had over for lunch do not like their meat Rare so I decided to go with Medium Rare to be safe. In the Sous Vide for 6 hours at 60 C (140 F) as advised by Chefsteps. To test the stability of the water bath temperature I also used my temperature logger - which I started about 30 minutes after the meat was put in..













Water Temperature.JPG



__ wade
__ Jan 17, 2016






The logger measured 0.1 Deg C (0.18 F) lower than the Sous Vide heater - but I can live with that. The temperature fluctuation was a maximum of 0.2 Deg C (0.36 F) over the 6 hours - I can live with that too

The beef joint when it came out was perfection. slightly pink in the middle (well pretty much throughout) with very light brown running juices.The light in the photo does not do it justice.













Beef.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 17, 2016






The flavours of the rub were all there and were all recognisable - salt, pepper and a little garlic. The texture was melt-in-your-mouth whilst still retaining a good texture. This has certainly gone into the "must do again soon" file.


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## baz senior

It's impressive at keeping the temperature stable. Your Joint looks impressive as well, very nice.


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## smokin monkey

Looks like the smokers will be on eBay next week[emoji]128514[/emoji][emoji]128514[/emoji][emoji]128514[/emoji]


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## baz senior

Well, you have got me going on this one. I have ordered a PID controller and a fish tank pump off Ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301552458334?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EHEIM-COM...hash=item3f430139aa:m:mcpzqXrJdXCTHAx8LZdyo1g

I am now after a deep Gastronorm pan to put it all in and I reckon I can get hold of a second hand 500w element that might come in useful.
I'll need a small project box to cover the element terminals and I have one down the shed to mount the PID in. I am hoping that I can find a nut that will fit the temp sensor, then that can be mounted in the side of the Gastronorm pan and sit directly in the water.

I'll keep you informed of how it's all going, though I am not to sure how well the PID will perform, it's a right cheapo one. But if it keeps it somewhere near then it ill do I reckon.


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## molove

Baz

Here's a couple of ideas for you. You could use a 6 litre slow cooker (for about £20) eg http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/4228826.htm this is what I used until I bought the circulator.













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__ molove
__ Jan 23, 2016






I also used a cheap fish tank pump, but be aware they are fine for low temperature cooks but are likely to deform under anything higher than 55-60ºC, I had this happen to me. You might do better with something like this which is rated to 100ºC  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350966930817

For a cheap heating element you can use the element out of a £5 Asda or Argos kettle (the Tesco ones do work but are more complcated to use), see this article

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Brewery-for-Under-100-STEP-2-/

Yes I've built one of those too and I did use it for sous vide once too. You could use any food grade polypropylene bucket as they are rated to way over 100ºC. You need a 40mm hole cutter to mount the kettle elements and just use the gasket it came with. A standard IEC kettle lead fits on the connector at the back.













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__ molove
__ Jan 23, 2016






Or if you can't be bothered with any of the faff of making your own you could always get one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Andrew-Ja...ter-Bath-Oven-Cooker-Rack-Tongs-/391335189948 for £60 including postage (never used one so can't vouch for it)

Hope that's been of some use to you


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## baz senior

Thanks for that, I'll get out and have a look at kettles tomorrow. The Eheim pump seems to be able to handle at least 60 degree's, having looked round various DIY builds, it seems to be the one which most people have ended up with. Allegedly they still work up to 90 degrees, not that I will be going anywhere near that high.
That pump you have found will be the one that I will replace it with if this one gives up the ghost.

I am looking for a 8" deep Gastronorm pan, which if I can't get hold of one  by asking around, then I can get one from Nisbets for £22. I was thinking about getting hold of some polystyrene to insulate the sides and base, that should reduce heat loss and might help keep the temp stable.


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## wade

Baz Senior said:


> I am looking for a 8" deep Gastronorm pan, which if I can't get hold of one by asking around, then I can get one from Nisbets for £22. I was thinking about getting hold of some polystyrene to insulate the sides and base, that should reduce heat loss and might help keep the temp stable.


Have you looked at NextDayCatering. They have polycarbonate ones there from ~£15


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## baz senior

Thanks Wade. The reason I am planning on using stainless is that I want it strong where I place the element. So if I have to use a bit of grunt to make sure it doesn't leak, then I won't wreck it. I am going to see if I can get hold of one for next to nothing, but if not then I will have to see what element I can use as well. I'll have to see how things pan out, so I might end up with one of the polycarb ones.


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## molove

Baz be aware that stainless steel is a complete bastard to cut, if you intend to cut a perfectly round hole you will need a Qmax. You will need to drill a 10mm hole first which you must do at very low speed using cutting paste else the steel gets harder and harder as it heats up.
 


Also you might want to consider getting a PT100 thermocouple most PID temperature controllers can work with them. They measure in 0.1ºC increments compared to the 1ºC increments of a K Type thermocouple. They are readily available on ebay eg www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Meters-Wire-Temprature-Sensor-Thermocouple-Probe-PT100-K6-/291658032536













PT100.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 23, 2016






Notice the PID is now working to a precision of a tenth of a degree, it automatically changes when you use a PT100 sensor


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## smokin monkey

Some good looking DIY Sous Vide rigs[emoji]128077[/emoji]


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## baz senior

Cheers Molove, I am up on the old stainless problem, I work with it and have the gear to seriously bother it. Some of the guys in the trade still don't get the work hardening aspect of the material and are known as driller killers. Like you say, at least one quarter the speed you would work steel.
I woke up early (again) and had a thought. I have an electric hot plate somewhere, why not just put that under the pan (or saucepan) and control the heat on that, it should have good contact with the weight of water in the pan and give good heat transfer without the element being in the water. All you would need then is the circulation pump and the temp sensor in there. It would make more room and eliminate the danger of the bags making contact with the element. Any decent sized saucepan could then be used without having to drill it.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-...960644?hash=item2a5ffbc004:g:XQsAAOSwa-dWl~aF


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## molove

Baz

The main problem with an electric hob is that they have a built in thermostat that breaks the direct relationship between the power applied by the PID temperature controller and the amount of heat applied to the water. For instance, there will be times when the electric hob thermostat has turned itself off and the PID thinks it is applying power but the temperature isn't increasing as it should so the PID will start increasing the power etc etc.

You could try removing the thermostat but you would probably need to upgrade all the wiring too. I did this and melted part of the elecric hob.

I didn't use this set up for sous vide but as a heat exchanger to maintain mash temperatures in my brewing setup, see below.













2014-07-07 13.31.07.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 24, 2016






Also the transfer of heat between 2 dry metals is never going to be as efficient as an element heating water directly.

I ditched this method soon after and went for a 5 litre foodsafe plastic bucket with an Asda kettle element installed because of the direct relationship between the power applied and the amount of heat the water received. See below for the mark 2 which uses the kettle element and works much better (for my needs) than the above set up.













2014-11-20 11.48.17.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 24, 2016






Piers


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## baz senior

Ha Ha, funny you should mention that.
I have despoiled an Asda £5 kettle and removed the element. I see what you mean about the hole having to be precise to accept the seal, so it looks like a bit of filing to get it right. The only problem is that it's a cordless one, so the element contacts slide into the base to provide power. But fortunately it still has the Euro plug connector on the element, so I can use an old power cable to sort that.
I have fitted a single plug socket for the outlet of the controller, that way I can connect more things in the future, but for the time being it will provide a safe connection for the element.
I am just waiting for some other bits to turn up now.













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__ baz senior
__ Jan 24, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Jan 24, 2016


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## molove

Yes that's the same element as I the ones I use. An IEC power lead will slide  directly on to the prongs, obviously make sure it's rated to 10 amps.

The hole cutter you need for the gasket is 40mm. If you are determined to use a stainles steel gastronorm, I would recommend the qmax hole cutter, but to be honest if it were me I'd just use a food grade plastic container until you are sure it all works how you want it to.

Be aware you may need to make some plastic washers with a 40mm hole to make sure the element fit is totally water tight. Ideally your container will be the exact thickness of the Asda kettle.


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## baz senior

I have kept the kettle body, just in case I need to cut out the bit where the element went through to pack it out. I'll see what I can get my hands on for a container. If push comes to shove, then I'll buy the one Wade put up, that should do nicely. But if I can come across something without spending, then that would suit better.
Thanks for your input, much appreciated.


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## molove

I think I made my first test using a 98p bucket from B&Q. I'd recommend a 5 or 10 litre fermentation bucket from your local homebrew shop, the plastic should be thick enough to seal round the element without needing a washer, and it's food grade and will be rated to well over boiling pint, should cost about a fiver or so.

Something like this https://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/2-gallon-10-litre-fermentatio-bucket-with-lid.html


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## baz senior

I have got hold of a Gastronorm pan, which pleases me greatly,  went straight down the shed and made a nice hole in it. As Molove rightly predicted I needed the bit of the kettle that held the element originally to get a correct fit, I chopped this out with the Dremmel. The Pan is only 0.44mm thick.
The element was fitted, tested for a correct Earth and filled with water, no leaks so far or I get 25 litres of water all over the shed. I am just waitng for the PID and pump now.













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__ baz senior
__ Jan 25, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Jan 25, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Jan 25, 2016


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## smokin monkey

molove said:


> Baz
> 
> The main problem with an electric hob is that they have a built in thermostat that breaks the direct relationship between the power applied by the PID temperature controller and the amount of heat applied to the water. For instance, there will be times when the electric hob thermostat has turned itself off and the PID thinks it is applying power but the temperature isn't increasing as it should so the PID will start increasing the power etc etc.
> 
> You could try removing the thermostat but you would probably need to upgrade all the wiring too. I did this and melted part of the elecric hob.
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> I didn't use this set up for sous vide but as a heat exchanger to maintain mash temperatures in my brewing setup, see below.
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> I ditched this method soon after and went for a 5 litre foodsafe plastic bucket with an Asda kettle element installed because of the direct relationship between the power applied and the amount of heat the water received. See below for the mark 2 which uses the kettle element and works much better (for my needs) than the above set up.
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> __ Jan 24, 2016
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> Piers



Hi Piers, looks like you are running a "Moonshine" operation!


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## smokin monkey

Baz Senior said:


> I have got hold of a Gastronorm pan, which pleases me greatly,  went straight down the shed and made a nice hole in it. As Molove rightly predicted I needed the bit of the kettle that held the element originally to get a correct fit, I chopped this out with the Dremmel. The Pan is only 0.44mm thick.
> The element was fitted, tested for a correct Earth and filled with water, no leaks so far or I get 25 litres of water all over the shed. I am just waitng for the PID and pump now.
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> __ Jan 25, 2016
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> __ baz senior
> __ Jan 25, 2016
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> __ baz senior
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Hi Baz that Sous Vide bath is looking good! I would put a wire grill over the element to stop the Sous Vide bags touching it and melting?

If you need any help in future cutting or welding etc give me a PM, back from holidays in a weeks time.


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## baz senior

I am looking for something to protect the element and pump, what I think I will do is completely section off the end with the pump and element so that nothing makes contact with the pump or element. I thought that if the pump gets knocked it could in a worse case scenario end up squirting the water out of the bath.

Enjoy your hols! I'll catch up with you when you are back.


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## wade

At some point you often have to step back and ask yourself "how much has this 'cheap' project actually cost?" and "how practical is it really?". I am like you and love a challenge and can get quite carried away, but sometimes when you look back in hindsight it would have been cheaper and more practical to just buy one in the first place. Usually the deciding factor is when my wife says something like "You are not keeping _*that thing*_ in my kitchen!"


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## molove

Smokin Monkey said:


> Hi Piers, looks like you are running a "Moonshine" operation!


Haha, I wish! I am a bugger for a bit of geekery. That's my temperature controlled recirculating mash tun, essentially I can maintain constant temperatures to within a couple of tenths of a degree, in my mash tun when I'm making beer. Probably a bit unnecessary but I wanted to see if I could make one. It's also known as HERMS http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/08/11/rims-and-herms-recirculating-infusion-mash-systems-for-beer/


Baz Senior said:


> I am looking for something to protect the element and pump, what I think I will do is completely section off the end with the pump and element so that nothing makes contact with the pump or element. I thought that if the pump gets knocked it could in a worse case scenario end up squirting the water out of the bath.


You probably won't need to protect the element if you start by filling the tank with hot water from the tap and only put the bags in when the water is up to temperature. The element will, if you've got your PID settings right, only be on for very small amounts of time and will hardly heat up to much above the water temperature. You can always clip the bags to the edge of the gastronome away from the pump and the element. Doesn't the pump have rubber suction pads on it so you can stick it to the base or side of the gastronorm?


Wade said:


> At some point you often have to step back and ask yourself "how much has this 'cheap' project actually cost?" and "how practical is it really?". I am like you and love a challenge and can get quite carried away, but sometimes when you look back in hindsight it would have been cheaper and more practical to just buy one in the first place. Usually the deciding factor is when my wife says something like "You are not keeping _*that thing*_ in my kitchen!"


This was why in the end I bought the Circulator. After having used the temperature controlled slow cooker for a couple of years I just wanted something that worked well without any faff.

Trying to set up the PID values in the temperature controller was a nightmare on the slow cooker because the reaction times were so slow that it was impossible to do an autotune, this might not be the case with Baz's set up because the element is a lot more powerful than a slow cooker. I did eventually get a set of values that did kind of work ok, they had a tendency to overshoot whilst coming up to temperature followed by an undershoot before settling.

The homemade version worked ok but when I made it, the cheapest immersion circulators were in the region of £600 which is totally out of my price range. As soon as I saw this circulator for £99+Vat I jumped at it. It is head and shoulders above my homemade version, it gets to temperature very quickly and the temperature is rock solid with no overshoots or undershoots and I can use it with any sized container up to 40 litres. Had this been available at the time I first got interested in sous vide I would have bought it immediately and not bothered with any of the homemade versions.

Piers

PS Does anyone in South East London want a 6 litre slow cooker?


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## baz senior

£32.27 so far and I can't see me needing to spend any more. 
I agree with Wade, but I do enjoy messing about down the shed and I do get a fair amount of failures, some a bit more spectacular and final than others, but that's what RCD's are for right! :biggrin:
But there is a great amount of satisfaction from getting something to work right and produce great food. If it wasn't for guy's like you on the forum starting projects like this, backyard and shed projects wouldn't happen and we would all have to buy stuff off the shelf. This is where idea's begin, on a bench in a shed somewhere.

I think the main problem with the slow cooker is the thick stoneware wall of the pot, although it does transmit heat through, there is a significant time lag which the PID can't cope with. Sure it will get you in the ball park and will produce decent food, but as you say, when you want something a bit more controllable it's not up to it.


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## wade

My latest project 
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	

















Wired Unit 1.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 26, 2016


















Front 1.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 26, 2016


















Rear 1.jpg



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__ Jan 26, 2016


















Sensor and Fan.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 26, 2016


















Fan 1.jpg



__ wade
__ Jan 26, 2016


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## baz senior

Go on then Wade, I am intrigued, I would have said a BBQ temp controller, but the two blue things have thrown me. Are they transmitters?
I would have said one is a set temp display and the other the actual temp, but then you could see the actual temp on just one unit, so are you controlling two outputs?
It looks nice and tidy. Thumbs Up


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## wade

Temperature and humidity controller for a salami curing cabinet. The blue things are just quick connect power couplers so that different plug/socket arrangements can be added as active heating/cooling devices. The left controller is humidity and the right one is temperature.


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## baz senior

That's a great project, getting the food side right is a challenge, then curing it is another story. I can see the grey probe is the hygro one now, I can't wait to see it working. Nice one Wade.


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## wade

I have opened up the grey probe case and it now contains the hygrometer and both of the thermometer probes - one that is required for the humidity measurement and the other for the temperature.


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## baz senior

I have now received all the bits and have been down the shed and put them all together. I have just stuck it on to test and it seems to be working fine. I will need another PID, as the one I got was a cheap one and has a lot of the functions missing. I cannot change the input to a PT100 and it doesn't want to auto tune. It looks like it is a basic version. It does have some PID function, as it isn't just an on/off output.
I will probably insulate it with foam, to stop heat loss and try and keep it more stable. I am planning on pan frying a steak tonight, and then in the near future I will sous vide one and see what the difference is. I have got to do a pan fried one as a base line test. That's my excuse anyway. :biggrin:













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__ baz senior
__ Jan 30, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Jan 30, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Jan 30, 2016


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## smokin monkey

Hi Baz, that controller is looking good. I have built a couple like that[emoji]128077[/emoji]


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## baz senior

I should have read the PID label better, it works, but doesn't have the fine control needed. I'll give it a whirl and probably upgrade to a better one that I can alter in the future. I will be trying Steak in it to start with. We had a pan fried one last night, this will give us an idea of how this method cooks in comparison. It will certainly take the work out of a family BBQ, SV it and finish on the grill.


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## smokin monkey

Will certainly help with BBQ's!  I've Sous Vide many events, including sausage, burgers and chicken legs. Pull then straight out and just add Char marks from the Grill!


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## baz senior

I can see why professional units use them, I am assuming that if you don't use the number you have in the bath, they can be chilled and then reused until the product hits it's use by date. You cannot over cook it. Then as you say for grilling, it's already cooked it just needs colour.


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## molove

Hi Baz

Looking at the link to the PID, it looks like it is a REX C100, which I have a couple of. Whilst I know there are slight differences between the various makes of REX C100, as far as I know they all have an Autotune function and are capable of accepting a PT100 thermocouple. You may need to have a look at the instructions again, which even if you get an english copy aren't very user friendly.

On mine to get to Autotune press "Set" for 3 seconds to enter the settings menu

Press "Set" again to cycle through the menu items

Cycle through until you find the following menu item













2016-01-31 19.29.03.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






Change 0000 to 0001 using the arrow buttons to turn autotune on. It will return to the temperature display on its own after a few seconds, It should now be in autotune mode. On the left hand side the second little light down should now be flashing to indicate it is in autotune mode (the light has AT onit if you look closely)

To change the sensor to PT100 you will need to unlock the other settings menus which you do by entering the settings menu (press "Set" for 3 seconds) and cycle through to the unlock menu item (using the set button) which looks like this













2016-01-31 19.30.15.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






The code to unlock the other settings menu on my REX C100's is 1000, It may be different on yours, check the manual.

To go to the secondary settings menus from the temperature display press both "Set" and the left arrow button for 3 seconds. the display should show this













2016-01-31 19.55.11.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






Press "Set" to cycle through this menu.

To set mine to accept a PT100 sensor I need to change SL1 from 0000 (K type) to 1000 (PT100) once again the values for yours may be different













2016-01-31 19.55.24.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






There is another menu that you will need to change a couple of values

Go to the COD 0000 menu ("Set" and left arrow for 3 secs) and press the up arrow to change to COD 0001













2016-01-31 20.06.14.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






You must change the DF setting to 0 else you will never get an accurate reading, else it'll think you are happy with an accuract of 2ºC













2016-01-31 20.06.38.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






If you do decide to opt for a PT100 you will need to change the number of decimal places by changing the PGdP setting to 0003













2016-01-31 20.06.28.jpg



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






Let me know if you need a copy of my manual PM me you email and I'll send you a pdf.

In the meantime here are the 3 main menus

The main setting menu is (press "Set" for 3 secs and cycle through items using the "Set" button)













Screen Shot 2016-01-31 at 20.15.48.png



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






The Cod 0000 menu (press "Set" and left arrow for 3 secs, cycle through menu items using the "Set" button)













Screen Shot 2016-01-31 at 20.16.34.png



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






Change SL1 for type of sensor

Change SL2 to set whether the dosplay is in Farenheit or Centigrade

I wouldn't change anything else in this menu.

The Cod 0001 menu ("Set" and left arrow to get to Cod 0000 menu then press up arrow to change to Cod 0001)













Screen Shot 2016-01-31 at 20.17.15.png



__ molove
__ Jan 31, 2016






Apart from  dF and PGdP you shouldn't need to change anything.

Hope that's been of some help to you, let me know if there's any thing you don't understand.

Piers


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## molove

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## baz senior

Hi Piers, thanks for the in depth instructions.
Mine only has three display numbers available, it doesn't have the same codes that I can access either. I can get to the lock screen and by changing it to 100, I can get the SL (1-4) section up, but it won't let me alter anything. Likewise I can get the autotune up, but that won't let me change anything. I have set PID's up before, so either I am being a complete numpty or it really is a basic model.
I have tried to access it with different instructions, and like you say they are not the clearest. I'll get one of the more expensive versions and see if that will work better. Failing that I'll use an LAE one.

Many thanks for your help. Much appreciated.


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## molove

Baz

Did your PID come with a user manual? Could you scan it so I could have a look? Also can you confirm what make and model it is? Could you post a large sized photo of the front of it? Because it doesn't sound like a REX C100 that was shown in the ebay listing.

Are you saying on the LcK page it only shows 3 digits?  I have a MyPin TA4 that only has 3 digits on the lock page where lock=010 and unlock = 000 but there are only 8 possible combinations you could try.

Other unlock codes for C100's are 1000, 0100, 0000 that I could find in the various manuals I've got.

Piers

PS I think it'd be better to try to get the PID you've got working rather than buy another one just yet, esp if you are trying to make sure your set up remains significcantly cheaper than the units that Wade and I bought ;)


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## baz senior

This is the one I purchased.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301552458334?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I am wondering if it 's a copy and it doesn't have the full range of options and works more like a digital thermostat in a PID casing. The instructions were all in Chinese, so I have tried to use the ones downloaded off the web, although these don't tally with the way the unit operates. I spent two hours last night trying the various combinations to get in, but mostly it won't let me alter the number value for a flashing digit. On the ARU pic, the far right digit is flashing and has been caught while not lit.













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__ baz senior
__ Feb 2, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Feb 2, 2016


















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__ baz senior
__ Feb 2, 2016






I might have to bite the bullet and get one which will work in full PID mode, maybe I'll give this one a whirl first, it keeps it to within a degree.


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## molove

Are those 3 settings the only settings you can cycle through in the settings menu?

Did you try all 8 combinations for LcK?

As far as I can tell different lock codes lock different settings and there should be one that unlocks everything. It is possible you haven't unlocked the PID settings yet.

I found this in one of the C100 manuals I downloaded for different values of LcK. Obviously this is for a different model than yours (and mine to be honest).













Screen Shot 2016-02-02 at 09.20.34.png



__ molove
__ Feb 2, 2016






From this we can work out (on this particular device) that the second digit from the left locks and unlocks SV, the 3rd digit locks and unlocks the Alarms and the 4th digit locks and unlocks all the other parameters where 0 is unlocked and 1 is locked.

And this appears to be the one that works for mine













Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 21.32.28.png



__ molove
__ Feb 2, 2016






I'm assuming you tried both 000 or 111

With regards to the chinese manual, I have in the past scanned chinese manuals and transferred them to my Android phone and loaded the scan into Google translate which will translate text in a photo and it has worked quite well, certainly enough to get the gist.

If you could send me a scan of the manual I'd happily see if I could make any sense of it. PM me and I'll let you know my email address, or just attach it to a post or PM.

Piers


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## baz senior

I don't have a printer or a scanner. It blew up around two years ago and I haven't really needed one at home. I sometimes go to the office and use theirs.

I have tried all those, and other numbers as well. I think it's a Micky unit. I suppose you get what you pay for.


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## molove

Next time you go to the office scan it there and send me a copy and I'll see if I can make any sense of it. The one for mine was Chinese and I cross referenced it against an English manual for a different model.

I'll PM you my email.

I think the manual for the MyPin PID was even more difficult to understand than the C100


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## molove

In the meantime can you tell me what model it is? There should be a sticker on the lefthand side with the model number on it.

It should be something like REX-C100FK2-V*AN

Also can you tell me what make it is as well, I can't read the writing in your photos, and the ebay link you sent doesn't specify the make or model and shows photos of 3 different makes (EICS, Berme, and RKC)

Piers


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## molove

I have had another thought. From your photos there are obviously 4 digits in the bottom row of the display, does the left most digit on the bottom row ever display anything on any of the pages you can get to? On mine, on all of the pages of the setting menu all 4 digits are illuminated.

When I turn the unit on I get this initialisation page













IMG_20160202_113054.jpg



__ molove
__ Feb 2, 2016






Which shows that furthest left digit lit up. Does yours do this? Does your Chinese manual look like it refers to there being 4 digits in any of the tables or diagrams?

I have read quite a few different manuals for C100's and they all refer to there being 4 digits. Is it possible that the left most digit on the bottom row is just broken?

I would check this by entering a settings page, one of the digits on the bottom row will be brighter (or flashing) than the others ie the selected digit, press the left arrow to move the selected digit to the left, when the left most digit is brighter (or flashing) does clicking the left arrow just once then make the right most digit bright (or flash) or does it take 2 clicks? If it takes 2 clicks it would indicate that the left most digit is broken and you should return the unit for a replacement.

Piers


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## wade

I have been so pleased with the first one that I have now bought a second so that I can cook at 2 different temperatures at the same time.


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## baz senior

Awesome stuff Wade. Mines nearly finished now, I am on call this weekend, so all being well I will be able to give it a whirl next weekend. I know that the PID isn't bang on, but I reckon it will be a proof of concept if nothing else.
I need to try out the cold smoker mods, but the weather is just pants at the moment.


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