# Mes Quit



## lostarrow (Feb 20, 2009)

My 3 year old MES quit in the middle of a cook. The controller still works & you can hear the thermostat click but no heat from the element which does not look burned out. Before I take the back off has anyone done any repair work on their MES


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## fishawn (Feb 20, 2009)

I just fixed mine last week. In my case, it was a pretty easy fix..... Drilled out the back rivets & took off the back..... The connection at the heating element (inside the aluminum small box in back) was fried....

I cut off the bad connector (right next to the connector) from the wire that leads underneath to the "junction box" stripped about 1/4" of the existing wire.....attached a new connector......sanded down the connection.....attached it & it works fine....

Installed all new SS screws, but I think aluminum would work as well. 

I'm not sure if my design is the same as yours, or everybody else's that will view this post, but one thing I did that I finally figured out was to Drill a hole in the "shroud" that covers the back of the chip pan....It allows for easy access to the screws that hold the heating element to the back of the MES and the small aluminum box in back. Until I figured this out, I was one mad MES repair man....The position of the screws in back is very awkward.....Here's a picture & good luck!


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## fishawn (Feb 20, 2009)

Make sure after your repair work to make the following MODIFICATION!


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## farnsworth (Feb 20, 2009)

LOL, I can just imagine a loop playing little curls of smoke rising up on the monitor - helps fix the envy for the glass front version


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## smokeguy (Feb 20, 2009)

I figured it was so that you could have instant access to SMF!


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## fishawn (Feb 20, 2009)

It's actually my patio TV, but a computer monitor would be good also. A kegerator is just a little too big for the 30", but with the 40" ?????????


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## scubadoo97 (Feb 20, 2009)

So how did you figure out the correct placement for the hole in the "shroud"? From my view the screw on the left of the heating element plate I might be able to get at with out taking off the shroud. The center screw is for the ground wire from previous photos and discussion but it's that darn far right one that would make it necessary to remove the shroud or drill an access hole.


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## fishawn (Feb 20, 2009)

That "darn right one" was the one that I was having troubles with. I did not take off the "shroud"......I took out all the shelves, wood chip box & water pan.....Then I "eyeballed" where that "darn right screw" is located & drilled a hole through the "shroud" that is about 2 times larger in diameter than my screwdriver. So now I can push my screwdriver right through the hole drilled in the "shroud" and get to that "darn right one" easily. 

Hope that helps, if you want some more photos, I can send more later, after it cools down from smoking, that is!


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## scubadoo97 (Feb 21, 2009)

With all these reports of MES failure I'm thinking of making the repair before it fails.  Seems it always fails in the middle of a big smoke.  How hard is it to drill out the rivets and then reattach the back with screws?


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## fishawn (Feb 21, 2009)

It's easy to drill out the rivets, took me about 5 minutes & then you have easy/quick access to the rear, if you have an electric screwdriver/drill. 

Before the website conversion, I think one of the MES users on here did a TOTAL wiring replacement on his with a cost of about $8.00 as I recall.

Anyone remember this?


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## ronp (Feb 21, 2009)

Here is the complete rebuild.

http://smokingmeatforums.com/forums/...04&postcount=1
Hope this helps.


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## fishawn (Feb 21, 2009)

Thanks Ron!


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## bobsim (Feb 21, 2009)

Hello to everyone, Lostarrow there's one thing I would like to add to the great advice you've been given. If you discover the connection/connector at the element is fried(as mine was,) follow the wire to the control box. There was enough slack wire there, about 3", to make the repair possible.
 Good luck.


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## scubadoo97 (Feb 21, 2009)

Here is the previous thread on the MES repair with photos.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...ES+connections

Just for the heck of it I popped off the back of my new MES. The chip dispenser "shroud" was not hard to remove. Only 4 screws that were easy to get to. The connections were very clean as expected on a new smoker. The connectors had a plastic insulated cover as seen in the attached photos. 

Is this the same as what has been seen in the past or is this an attempt to improve wear and longevity of this Achilles heel problem?

I want to replace these even though they look new but was just curious if Masterbuilt has done any improvements. I don't want a failure during a smoke if I can help it so why not do it now or am I crazy or OCD?


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## bobsim (Feb 22, 2009)

Scubadoo, Here's my take on the situation, I don't think it's a hardware issue. In my opinion the issue is a loose connection between the male tab on the element and female connector on the wire. In my case one connector/tab looked brand new while the other was toast (tab and connector).In fact all the wiring and connections I saw inside the unit looked new. I was impressed with the quality and workmanship- this unit is one and a half years old. 
 The connection that failed on mine was the shorter of the two wires, when I removed the element( from the inside before removing back panel ) the wire remained inside the cabinet- it was too short to pull out of the hole left by removing the element. After pulling the rear panel I thought I would have to replace the wire as it seemed too short to facilitate a repair but when I accessed the other end to remove it I found some slack- about 3inches.
  My thinking is that wire was tight at installation and the small movement of the element every time the ash bin is emptied worked the connection and eventually caused enough slack for the electricity to arc and fail. I don't think the connectors pulled apart but loosened just enough.
 When repairing mine I crimped the devil out of the female connector and had to use a lot of force to get them back together, I also left some slack in the wire as to allow the connection to flex a little with the element.
 Well it's been about a month and I've got around fifty hours of smoking on the repair (and will be cooking all day today) and so far so good. Will post any further issues.
 My advice, since you've opened it already, is to put a little slack in the wire, check the connector/tab for a good tight fit and have a female tab ready for the repair just in case.
 My .02 hope it helps, Bob.


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## scubadoo97 (Feb 22, 2009)

Bob, thanks for your insight.  After inspecting the connectors I found that on my 3 months old unit the male connectors were clean and free of any corrosion but the female connectors had developed a rusty orange hue.  These were not rusted out of course but given the humid conditions here in Florida I wonder if a stainless female connector wouldn't be a better solution and offer some security.  It could be a combination of rust formation and faulty connection due to the short wire that is causing these units to have such a high fail rate.


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## bobsim (Feb 24, 2009)

You know I didn't even think about the stainless connectors. A+ Idea. If I have to do it again I'll either solder the connection straight or do stainless. Hopefully it'll behave for a while. Did fine Sunday- had two chuckies in it and a full load of jerky in the 30", all went well.


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## scubadoo97 (Feb 25, 2009)

Stopped by an electrical supply house today. They had no clue if these terminals were available in stainless. I found a marine site that has insulated terminals. Also available through amazon. 

http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-211428-M...sg_ai_-2_4_tit


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## debiandog (Feb 26, 2009)

I just did this. Myself before finding this site :(

I drilled out the rivets, then replaced them with short stainless steel screws.  Some young enterprising person could probably make a kit of connectors, screws, sealant, etc and sell them as a kit since it looks like this is bound to happen with the 40.


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## ol sparky (Mar 7, 2009)

My MES from sams that is two years old and probably used a dozen times is now tripping my GFI outlet.


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 8, 2009)

Time to pop the back and take a look at the connections.  You will have to remove the chip tray cover which is not a big deal and remove the the outer screws on the heating element to release the metal cover on the back that covers the two connections.  I left the metal cover unattached after inspecting mine but still in place to cover the connections.  This way I'll not need to remove the chip tray cover again and can just pop the back and give it a good once over.


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## ol sparky (Mar 8, 2009)

Oh I have taken it all apart and cleaned the connectors but its still doing it :(

Guess I should have mentioned that hehe.

I am amending this with the fact that the last time I used it (last summer) I did so twice in one week and hosed it out between uses.  I thought perhaps some moisture had gotten inside where the element was and making the GFI trip.   In the end I plugged it in to a non GFI outlet and was able to use it. 

I am concerned though that I will end up frying a wire or something.


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## ol sparky (Mar 8, 2009)

Interesting update. 

I found after completely taking the unit apart that both ends of the burner element wire are the made exactly the same. This of course required drilling out the rivets in the small square box on the bottom that holds the electronics package in it to get at one of the ends. The other is in the temperature sensor switch that can be removed by pulling the two screws above and below it. It is on the inside of the unit on the left about 2/3rds up. Interestingly it is wired as a cutoff so I assume it senses overtemp and cuts off the burner. I always thought it was the temp sensor but apparently not, its just a bi-metal dump temp switch. The real temp sensor appears to be about 8-10 inches up from that on the outside.

So anyway I reversed the wires so the good ends were attached to the burner after having cleaned the bad ends thoroughly and replacing one that was questionable. I also used a compound for connections that prevents corrosion. Hopefully that will keep the buildup I saw on there from happening again.

I just fired it up for a test run and got her up to 210 deg for 2 hours. I couldn’t go 10 minutes before without blowing the GFI so this is definitely an improvement. Hopefully we are a go for my party in 2 weeks!


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 8, 2009)

What compound did you use?


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## ol sparky (Mar 8, 2009)

I used the diaelectric compound that you can buy at auto parts stores for putting on spark plug boots. Keeps them from corroding to the plug end and is for high temp applications.


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 8, 2009)

Thanks.  I'll have to look for that.  Sounds like this will be a preventative measure to keep the MES going longer.  I'm just amazed at all the problems I've seen with this smoker seeing that it gets great reviews.  Makes me think I should have saved my pennies for a Cookshack or Smoke Tex


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## ol sparky (Mar 8, 2009)

N/P.  Just go to the counter at the auto parts store and tell them you need spark plug boot grease.  If you call it a diaelectric compound or anything like that you will probably get a wierd look.

I just looked at it and it bears a logo that says "ABG" and the label says "Diaelectric Spark Plug Boot Protector".  It comes in a small foil style package you might get condiments in at a fast food place.  Just enough to do the job without having a mountain left over after.  I think it costs about a buck around here I just had some from the last overhaul.


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## ol sparky (Mar 10, 2009)

Customer support... HA

So before I started messing with the smoker last Sat. I emailed Masterbuilt support asking for any help they might be willing to offer because I had possibly used the unit 12 times and it wast just under 2 yrs old and was tripping the GFI.

I got a pleasant reply to call their 800 number and get to support and they should be able to help me with anything I might need. 

What was supports "anything I might need" offer you ask...

"Sir, this sounds like there is a short inside the unit. Unfortunately there are no user serviceable parts inside. We have a kit that is just the chassis (box.. .whatever they called it) for $189 plus shipping... grand total nearly $225."

To which I promptly let them know that I was not going to sink 2/3rds the cost of the unit back in to it only to possibly have this happen again so No Thanks!!!.

I had read about people getting new units on here out of warranty but I guess not today.

The next time I am inside the unit I am going to take the burner out and head to my local appliance repair place and ask if they have a burner with nearly the same ratings as this one, 110V 6.5-6.6A or 800 Watts that is about the same size that I could use to replace it.

It would be easy to remake the plate that holds it to the back wall for a new one.


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 18, 2009)

Finally got around to getting some dialectric grease and today took the back off and lubed up the connections.  The heating element connections were easy to get at since I had already removed the holding screws to the metal cover.  The metal cover on the upper right side was also easy to remove by removing the two screws that are in a vertical orientation on the inside of the smoker box.  There were two connectors under this cover.  The cover was easy to reattach.  The only connections that were not accessible were the ones at the bottom right corner that go into the unit.  Just have to hope those holds. 

This precaution took all of around 20 min.  Most of the time was used to remove back sheet metal and reattach it.


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## smokeguy (Mar 18, 2009)

I wonder if some of the problems could be from the moisture coming from the water pan. Just curious how many of those with problems keep the pan in there with water and for how long after a smoke? I haven't had any problems (yet), but so far I've dumped it either that day, or the next day if it was too late/hot. And I'll leave the vent open so that the vapor has a way to escape. Thoughts?


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## fishawn (Mar 18, 2009)

I think Masterbuilt uses cheap wiring in the initial build.

1) It gets call backs for service where they can sell new "bodies" to people not able to, or not willing to attempt repair for units out of warranty.

2) Cheap wire costs less! 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






They have a pretty big following on here, I use one & love the convenience of it. That said, I have replaced connections on my 30" that is about 15-16+- months old. I use it about 3 times a week. They really should look into using higher gauge or grade wire when building them. Maybe they have on the new Re-designed ones with the window???

There is (was?) a great thread on here with the step by step replacement of the original wiring with upgraded wiring. It is not all that hard.


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 18, 2009)

I think they use 16 gauge wires for these connections.  I had thought about replacing my wires with a thicker gauge and had inquired about high temp wiring.  I don't think it's the temperature but low grade components.  So far I've kept my original wiring but have protected the connections with this dialectric grease and crimped the connections as best I can.  I'm hoping these preventative measures will keep this smoker going without problems for some time to come.


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## ol sparky (Mar 20, 2009)

I don't know if it is the wiring or the connector that is cheap. Probably both.  I have truly only used mine about 8 times. A few of those very short smokes. 

I am going to use it again this weekend for 40lbs worth of brisket and 4 chickens.

I got contacted back by Masterbuild C.S. and was offered an entire smokes rather than just the body for 150 + 30 shipping but I turned them down.  I told the lady that if I was getting the same exact unit with the exact same flaws then I wasn't going to re-invest in their product.  However if they wanted to make that offer with the newest model unit I would consider investing in something that might not have the same flaws.  I never heard back on that (email).


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## ol sparky (Mar 30, 2009)

Ha, now here is a something to laugh at.  If you look at the manual that comes with the MES it shows a "Parts" list with order info (call Masterbuilt)

So the body is listed as well as the heating element (seperately).

I call and ask for a price on the body kit.  Then I ask for the Element price.  They are one in the same $189.99 + shipping.  I say... so... when I order the element I am really getting the body?   The answer... Yes.

At any rate I have found some online options for replacing the element.  When I come up with something solid I will post repair details with pics.


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## shotsky (May 25, 2009)

Having spent several years as a temperature control engineer, I figured out why these things fail fairly quickly. 

1. The connectors have plastic insulation that will melt at extended temperatures for an extended time. That is what happens when you first start your cook - everything is cold, and the burner will be on fully for as long as it takes to get to the 'set temperature'. That extended period of time causes the insulation to melt, and filter down into the connector itself. Then, after that cook, it cools and rehardens. That causes less surface contact the next time you start it, and it makes the connector itself hotter, because of less surface contact. At some point, enough melted insulation is in the connector to cause arcing, and subsequent failure of the connection. That is what happened to mine. In other cases, the melted insulation could prevent contact at all, which would look like a failed element. I doubt that any of these elements have ever failed - only the connections.

2. The act of installing the wood tray and removing it 'jiggles' the heating element. That causes the wiring to flex each time. We all know what happens when a wire is bent enough times. Individual strands begin to break, forcing the current into the remaining ones, which then causes a hot connection, which, uh, melts the insulation, and the cycle continues.

I heard mention of using a stainless connector on these...DON'T, even if you find them. It is not safe to have non-matching metals touching while passing current through them. That is, by definition, electro plating. The connectors will fail.

So, the whole design of the treatment of the element is at fault. The wire size is probably ok, and would have to be approved by UL in the first place. The heating element should be surrounded with ceramic near the connectors, to divert heat away from the connections themselves. Properly done, the element would simply pull out like it does on your electril range. 

Proper materials should be used in the vicinity of high temperatures, or catastropic failure will result. In my job, we built thermostats for baseboard heaters, and believe me, you do NOT want to be on the receiving end of a lawsuit for failure of your materials in the intended usage.

Note that when one wire breaks off, as mine did, it may be a 'hot' wire, and may endanger you if you touch the unit. So - if you experience *ANY* heating issues, unplug it immediately, take care of your meat another way (I put my pork butt on my 4 burner grill, top down, two burners on low, for my final 4 hours). Then you can ****er with Masterbuilt about how to fix it.

I took my element out and can see the unconnected wire floating inside the chassis. Only luck prevented it from being the hot one. 

So, it is not the wire, and it is not the element, it is the design. The connectors should be true high temp connectors whose insulation cannot melt. (My insulation is a black blob in the bottom of the little aluminum box. Photos forthcoming.)

The wiring should not be flexed by adjusting the wood box. The element should be a plug-in type, and the receptacle for it should be ceramic with range type connections. If that was done, they wouldn't be replacing elements in the first place, because the elements are usually fine - it is the connectors that are at fault.

I know this is a long posting, but I've seen some dangerous suggestions already, and no mention of the real cause - the plastic insulation. I don't want anyone to get hurt, and I want Masterbuilt to 'get it' as to what is wrong, and FIX this problem properly. 

John Shotsky
Thermal engineer.


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## scubadoo97 (May 26, 2009)

John,

Thank you for such an infomative post.  I was the one to suggest stainless steel connectors.  I know didley about electrical stuff and your reasoning was most likley why I never found stainless connectors. 

So it sounds like one of the best fix a MES owner could do is to replace the connectors with true high temp connectors and make sure they are tight and that there is enough play that the wood box does not pull on the connectors.  The other suggestions are not something most of us could attempt.


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## shotsky (May 26, 2009)

Now that I have mine apart, and have taken pictures, I'm going to see if I can get in touch with a Masterbuilt engineer to get this problem fixed for good. I'm also going to get the good connectors, cut the wire back to where it's not discolored from heat, clean the contacts good, and reassemble. Funny, if they had mounted it with the plastic connectors on the bottom instead of the top, the plastic would have probably dripped away from the connector, but some may have still gotten into it.

I think they counted on not having a great deal of temperature at the connections, but they forgot that bringing a smoker from 20F to 250F with 10 pounds of cold meat and a pan of water would keep that element on for hours at a time, until equilibrium was reached. By that time, it would be HOT, HOT, HOT!

I'm not sure how they got these through the UL tests, but as long as the overheating condition didn't occur during their tests, they would probably pass it. They do things like throwing blankets over them, etc, trying to make them fail. And when they do fail, they make sure it fails to a condition that won't hurt anyone - thus overtemp cutouts, etc. UL would not have discoverred this problem under normal circumstances. I always had to give the ratings of the components I used, but as I say, if they claimed the temperature at the connections wouldn't exceed, say, 300F, the connector insulation was probably ok. I suspect it gets a lot warmer, under certain conditions.

For anyone wanting to prevent this problem, and willing to drill out the pop rivets on the back, I'd suggest cutting that insulation off the connectors and using some high temperature tape instead. Check with electrical supply people, or home depot, Lowes, etc. The tape will also help form a strain relief for the wires. If there's enough room, the element might be flipped so the connectors are down. Not sure that'll work offhand, unless it's symmetrical. 

Tomorrow, I talk to Masterbuilt about it and see what they're willing to do. I purchased in Feb, 2008 and didn't use it much over the winter, maybe 20 smokes by now is all.

I'm attaching a picture of the little box where my wire broke off. a picture of the element upside down, showing the melted insulation on it, and a picture of the butt I was smoking at the time...

John


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## ronp (May 26, 2009)

Thanks for the informative post. I already sent a link of yours to Kim in CS.

Here is her direct #, I would call her and see what she says,1-706-256-3942.

Tell her I sent you. Ron in New Mexico, I talked to her last week and she is good. Her email is 
[email protected]

But I find the phone works better.

Keep us posted.


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## creative rock (May 26, 2009)

Excellent post and information John. Although I am not an engineer I have worked as a service tech that includes beverage machines, electrical and refrigeration. I am also schooled in repair of the company I worked for Popcorn machines, simple to more complex. I have seen issues with the heating elements connectors and agree wholeheartedly with what you have said, and do believe Masterbuilt needs to redesign their smokers. 

I have owned my MES for several years, no problems, as of yet, but I am thinking this issue will be ignored by the company as far as units that have been sold. I am capable of fixing my own, but what about the person that isn't? 

As far as UL goes, maybe these findings need to be sent to them for consideration. Hopefully these issues don't cause a fatality and lawsuits to get it fixed.

Thanks for the information,
Matt
aka Rocky


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## shotsky (May 27, 2009)

I got in touch with Masterbuilt today, speaking with Tanya Moore, the CS Manager. I will be receiving a new unit, and they want mine back as proof of the quality problems they have experience with their (Chinese) manufacturer.

They have switched manufacturers, which is why there was a shortage for about 8 months. It took a while to get the new manufacturer up to speed, and, I'm told, the wiring has been completely redesigned.

You can detect whether you have an old unit or a new one by looking at the front feet. If the lines run around the front feet, as in a tire, that is the old supplier. If the lines run up and down, like a sand buggy, that is the new version. 

If ANYONE has any problems with heating, stop using it immediately, and call Masterbuilt.
706-256-3905 is Tanya's direct number.

For the person that had problems running it on a GFI - STOP using it now. That GFI may be all that stands between you and your safety. The reason a GFI trips is that there's current running in the ground wire. That also means one of your connections has already failed, and the body is now the return path. If that green wire fails, at this point, the whole body will be at 120V...

For anyone using the old model at this time: May I suggest a rubber mat in front of it for you to stand on when touching it. These connections are a time bomb, and no one knows if or when it will fail...

John


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## smokeguy (May 27, 2009)

Sand buggy where I live is about as useful as a snowblower! 
	

	
	
		
		



		
			






My lines go up and down so maybe I'm ok. But, I got mine last September so maybe they had more than one supplier since that date should make mine "old" style. So far I've had numerous smokes (2-3 per week most weeks) in cold and hot weather, large and small loads (6 briskets almost 87 lbs this weekend in back-to-back smokes) and haven't had any problems yet.


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## scubadoo97 (May 27, 2009)

I got my 30 inch MES last December and the lines run around the foot in rings so that sounds like the old supplier.  They planning any recalls?  haha.  

Could be a big liability if someone got electrocuted.  We aren't talking just about a smoker on the blink.  I don't want to be charred like my brisket.


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## creative rock (May 28, 2009)

Thanks again for the info and leg work John. As of now mine is still heating, but the last couple of times I have used it, seems like the temps were so low for a long long period of time. I am wondering if it might be ready to go... Mine is the old version apparently cuz the treads on the front go around, not up and down. I wouldn't expect this this time of year since it is hotter outside now as oppose to the weekend when it got hotter quicker. Without tearing into it, I am thinking maybe the connection isn't as solid as it should be on the heating element, as in some resistance at the connector... Just theorizing ;)

WILL keep an eye on it, and will call CS if it continues.

Matt
aka Rocky


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## scubadoo97 (Jun 3, 2009)

Seems there is some conflict from two CS people at MB as to which units are new.  Let's wait for a confirmation from ronp.

Sooooo.  Today I went looking for high temp quick disconnect terminals and wire.  Not easy to find.  I was able to pick up some terminals but the hardware store and two appliance service dept said they don't sell high temp wiring.  One appliance dealer said high temp wire went up to over $20/ft so they stopped carrying it.  

I know I can find it on line but I mentioned  that I wish I would have cannibalized my old electric stove.  He said "we have a couple in the back that you are welcome to look at and see what you can find".  Found a glass top stove and yanked every bit of heavy wire out of it I could get to.

Walked away with a major handful of 14-16 gauge high temp wiring with terminals.  Most of it with braided insulation.  The non braided wire list 125 * C 600 V.  Cost was my time of 20 min.


*TIP OF THE DAY*

So anyone looking to beef up their MES wiring head to the nearest appliance dealer or thrift store where they may have some junked electric ranges waiting to be picked up for scrap.  Bring a socket wrench set and a knife.  I had to borrow a 1/4 inch socket to remove all the screws on this range.


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## scubadoo97 (Jun 4, 2009)

Part of the loot.  Gauges range from a couple of 20 awg to 14 awg.  The mother load was 16 awg.  After cutting the terminal on the MES I found the internal wires to measure 14 awg.   I spliced an extension on to the short wire that goes on the left contact and will replace the other one that runs from the thermostat to the element with a longer high temp wire and terminal.  I hope to squeeze these on real tight to reduce any arcing. I hope to take some pictures of the upgrade.


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## mysticalman (Jun 4, 2009)

I just purchase a 40 inch from Sams this week. My feet run around not up and down so it looks like I have an old unit.

Any tips on how to get it replaced with in the 90 day warranty?

I did purchase the 3 year extended warranty to go with it because I read they are know to have issue's.

I am just thinking it would be much easier to get it replaced from the manufacture rather then go through the extended warranty company.


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## scubadoo97 (Jun 4, 2009)

There appears to be conflict as to which are older or newer units based on line of front feet.  Ronp on  another thread got the opposite information from a CS rep at MB.


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## ronp (Jun 4, 2009)

I took mine back to Sam's and got another one on the spot, no hassel at all. They didn't even look at it.


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## chrism (Jun 5, 2009)

Ron, Just curious.  What issue did you have with your MES ? Just picked one up on Wednesday. Thanks


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## ronp (Jun 5, 2009)

I had an element go out after about 100 smokes.


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## scubadoo97 (Jun 6, 2009)

Here are some photos of my attempt to beef up the wiring and secure the connections using wires taken from an electric range.

I spliced on an extension to the wire that goes from the power supply to the heating element. This was soldered securely and the terminals fit very snug now.  I did not attempt to wrap the terminal connections with electrical tape or solder them.  They didn't seem to need it on the range from where they were removed.  Over time I will do visual inspections of these terminals. The extra length should help reduce pull from the wood tray. 

I also replaced the wire from the thermostat to he element as well as the ground wire. They all have more slack now.

Just a shot of the new wire coming from the thermastat


Looking forward to any feedback from shotsky.  The terminals appear to be a different metal but that's also the way they were in the range from where they came.  The spades were not the same as the female terminals.  I did check.  Please let me know if this is a disaster waiting to happen.


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## jsdspif (Jun 6, 2009)

my terminals went bad right after the warranty expired . That was about 2 years ago . I just replaced the terminals with ones I got at the hardware store (my hardware called them appliance terminals ) I believe they were stainless steel . I think the ones that came with the unit were just made of Chinese pot metal and then being shipped here they get exposed somewhat salt air and then combine with the heat when you start to use it and they just disintegrate (sp?) . Anyway , I just replaced those terminals , using the original wire and that was about 2 years ago and mine has worked fine ever since . I'm going to just say I've probably used it between 125 to 175 smokes since the fix with no problems.


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## farnsworth (Mar 7, 2010)

Well, as seems to be the pattern, just a month after the warranty ran out my element stopped working in the middle of a smoke. I was doing a roast, which got transferred to the kitchen for completion, so no loss on the dinner side. 

Luckily, all you good folk had forewarned me and I was able to diagnose the problem quickly. I went to Canadian Tire, which is a second home to any Canadian handyman, and for $5 bought a set of fibreglass braided 30 inch oven wires (for repair to electrical stove elements) and found that the connectors had indeed been the burn-out point. 

My display had also been giving me trouble - the control kept working but the display wouldn't always show all of the numbers without pushing and twisting the panel (I suspect a cold-solder joint on one of the display connections on the circuit board but it is potted with silicone so I didn't want to go digging into it). 

Masterbuilt service was very helpful and delivered me a replacement control panel for $15 plus $8 for shipping. 

I'm back in action with minimal downtime thanks your advice - thanks folks!

Mike


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## deltadude (Mar 7, 2010)

Thats great Farnsworth, getting your smoke baby working again, hopefully for 10 years more instead of 1 year.

I think that is one of the great things about the MES, even if Masterbuilt closed their doors, you can easily repair the MES and there are controllers out there to substitute for the OEM controller.


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## hewl35 (Mar 7, 2010)

For those looking for high temp wire and terminations look at www.delcity.com  they are an electrical supply company. I would dollars to doughnuts that McMaster -Carr has them also.




Just bought my 30" Masterbiult smoker today. Seasoned it earlier and now smoking some flounder with apple chips.

Jeff


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## texacajun (Mar 7, 2010)

Just so you know masterbuilt does make a wire and connector for this issue.I ordered their new heating element and this is part of that kit. If you call them i sure they would be happy to help you out instead of doing it on your own. By the way it is still 16 gauge high temp wire. I did a upgrade with 12 gauge wire my self and posted the MOD on the forum if that helps.


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 7, 2010)

So how do the repair wires from MB differ from the crapy ones they comes with?


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## texacajun (Mar 8, 2010)

From what i can tell nothing. The issue with is with the connectors melting from the heat. So that is the reason I did a full wiring upgrade. 
Here is the link for that post. http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/for...ad.php?t=89886


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 8, 2010)

I guess what I meant was are these connectors any better than the originals.

I did a rewire on mine a few months after purchase after reading the number of burn outs that have popped up here. 

Figured it was better than being in a big smoke and having a melt down.


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## 2007flstc (Mar 8, 2010)

I had the same problem with mine and fixed it, but would like to do a complete rewiring. I just do not know where to get high temp wire. Where did all of you find it?


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## scubadoo97 (Mar 8, 2010)

Just scroll up this page and you can see I got a bunch of high temp wires for free from an appliance shop that had realtively new electric range in the back ready for discard.


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## mama's smoke (Mar 8, 2010)

Hmmmm The link does not seem to a an electrical supply company.


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## ronp (Mar 8, 2010)

Try this.

www.delcity.net


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