# Best way to kill surface rust.



## cnl390 (Oct 10, 2019)

What is the best method to kill this surface rust and then repaint?


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## fivetricks (Oct 10, 2019)

I use wire brushes on high speed drills


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## old sarge (Oct 10, 2019)

I find a corded angle grinder to be indispensable around the house and that would include removing rust, old paint and general cleanup before repainting. Can also put an edge on an axe, shovel, hoe, etc. A 4 1/2 inch is very versatile and fairly inexpensive.


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## Sowsage (Oct 10, 2019)

Get yourself a 3M clean strip wheel.  That will clean it all off even in the pitted areas. A wire brush will basically take off the loose stuff and polish the rest of the rust. I use these daily for the last 20 years in my shop for different things. 
Here is a picture of what im taliking about but there are lots of variations available depending on what tool you want to use.


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## chopsaw (Oct 10, 2019)

Go to one of the big box stores and get sanding sponges . Work great for contoured surface . 
You have to be careful using wire brushes . The dissimilar metals can cause corrosion . Meaning the brush is made of a different metal than the body of the smoker . You can cause yourself a bigger problem if not careful . 
I also use the wheels sowsage posted . They are not metal , and work great with no worries .


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## Sowsage (Oct 10, 2019)

chopsaw said:


> Go to one of the big box stores and get sanding sponges . Work great for contoured surface .
> You have to be careful using wire brushes . The dissimilar metals can cause corrosion . Meaning the brush is made of a different metal than the body of the smoker . You can cause yourself a bigger problem if not careful .
> I also use the wheels sowsage posted . They are not metal , and work great with no worries .


Good point about the dissimilar metals!  Big no no and could turn a disaster!


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## Fueling Around (Oct 10, 2019)

I like the Scotch-Brite wheels on my 4-1/2" angle grinder to get the rust.  I also have great results with flap wheel sanders.

What are you stripping and attempting to repaint?


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## cnl390 (Oct 10, 2019)

The top of the firebox on my offset.  I also need recommendations for a high heat paint.


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## mosparky (Oct 10, 2019)

There is a spray on product called Rust Mort or Rust Mortician. Auto restorers use it to kill surface rust before painting. A saw a friend use it years ago on a "32 coupe, then painted it corvette yellow. The slightest bit of active rust would certainly show thru with that color, yet several years later it looked great.


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## Fueling Around (Oct 10, 2019)

mosparky said:


> There is a spray on product called Rust Mort or Rust Mortician. ...


That stuff is great in many formulas.  I don't know if it will withstand the heat.

BBQ paint is high temp, but it too will eventually burn off.
I've been thinking about adding a heat shield on my offset burn box.


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## civilsmoker (Oct 10, 2019)

The 3M or other brand wheel that Sowsage recommended is the ticket, it will remove the rust, old paint and prepare the metal for new paint. FYI, these wheels are what I used to do the final clean and polish the in-side of my old air-tank smoker build. 

For more stubborn rust I use a 3m roto pad on the die grinder at 20k rpm.....for pitted I use a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a flap wheel (this will remove metal).  

I also use the drill wheels to polish old cast iron to a near satin polish to re-season. I see people giving away rusted Dutch ovens and fry pans and I just gladly take them off their hands......people pay 300 for a seasoned polished cast iron fry......just crazy!


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## civilsmoker (Oct 10, 2019)

Rust-Oleum Ultra for paint.

But if you want the simple maintenance thing without doing anything.....simply rub it down with some canola or grape seeds oil and a scotch bright wipe clean with fresh oil and get it hot to season it. Then just wipe it with a little oil (just enough to wet it) each time you use it.


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## siege (Oct 10, 2019)

Automotive engine paint at your local parts house can take the heat.


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## bradger (Oct 11, 2019)

there is a product from duplicolor that turns rust into black primer, from the pictures you might be able to get away with only that


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## chopsaw (Oct 11, 2019)

civilsmoker said:


> But if you want the simple maintenance thing without doing anything.....simply rub it down with some canola or grape seeds oil and a scotch bright wipe clean with fresh oil and get it hot to season it. Then just wipe it with a little oil (just enough to wet it) each time you use it.


That's the ticket for the fire box . Knock the loose rust off and wipe it down .


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## Berettaclayshooter (Oct 30, 2019)

chopsaw said:


> Go to one of the big box stores and get sanding sponges . Work great for contoured surface .
> You have to be careful using wire brushes . The dissimilar metals can cause corrosion . Meaning the brush is made of a different metal than the body of the smoker . You can cause yourself a bigger problem if not careful .
> I also use the wheels sowsage posted . They are not metal , and work great with no worries .



While that is good advice, the OP is asking as to how to remove rust I.E. Steel.  So using steel won't harm it, now if it were aluminum or stainless steel, then yes it would be a bad idea.  Also note that 309 and 409 stainless will and do rust do to their high carbon content.  The 3M product is a very course form of their Scotchbrite material.  You could also find their Rol-Lok scotchbirte discs as well at a parts or hardware store. 
Just buy some high temp stove paint as this will be a re occuring thing with heat.


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## RyanMoore (Jan 4, 2020)

cnl390 said:


> What is the best method to kill this surface rust and then repaint?
> View attachment 408135
> View attachment 408135


IDK about you but I treat my smoker like it's a cast iron skillet! When using it as it heats up I always have an oil Rag and constantly wipe it down. My old Brinkman Pitmaster and my old Brinkmann Trailmaster vertical are awesome! I got them both free from an old man and they were in bad shape. I restored them by stripping them down to Bare Metal until they we're completely Shining and clean. That was the biggest part of it initially I thought, the next step is you have to clean the inside and out after you strip them with lacquer thinner. It removes all the residue and oil and dirt that is left over from the stripping process. I wiped it down two or three days in a row. That way it would air-dry and I may have got something the second day that I missed on the first day. I've been sprayed it with 2000 degree product flat black. Insulated the fire Chambers and added handles from lavalock. As well as the cooking chamber. Added a new thermostat on one latches on the other. I treated the Interiors of both of these like they were a cast iron skillet. Wipe them with oil and heating them up three times. They were better than anything that I feel like I could buy on the market. I did not expect them to turn out so good because my original intent was to sell them. My wife is upset because now they are taking up even more room than Webers. Just always treat your smoker which is basic iron like a skillet and wipe it constantly with oil. I think you will find that as the best thing.


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