# Adding gas assist



## shooterrick (May 25, 2008)

If smok n Steve or anyone else has a pic or diagram of adding a propane gas assist to a Lang fire box please share with me.  I am considering such a mod to my 48 mobile.  Would like to conserve wood after 4-5 hrs of smoke when not at the house or camping.  Wood is heavy and bulky to transport for longer burns.

Rick


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## cheech (May 25, 2008)

I am not adding gas assist to the trailer smoker but it is not a Lang. What we are going to do is take a burner from a turkey fryer. I will get pictures when I get it done


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## jet_deck (May 27, 2008)

Maybe one of these two ideas will work for you. I did the turkey burner thing, but not the "log lighter" yet.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd178/jet_deck/DSC00958.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd178/jet_deck/DSC00956.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd178/jet_deck/DSC00955.jpg

http://http://www.hobartwelders.com/...ad.php?t=28224

Just be sure the "make up" air comes from the outside of the cooker.


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## fatback joe (May 27, 2008)

Have you considered the Afterburner kit?  http://gassmoker.com/index.htm 

Or jsut wanting to go homebuilt?


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## tn_bbq (Jun 2, 2008)

You could also buy one of these propane torches (often used to start those stick burners) and just place it in the firebox. 

I think this goes for about $20 at Harbor Freight Tools (worth it if you only use it simply to start your smoker and/or burn away weeds in the yard)


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## shooterrick (Jun 2, 2008)

I had thought about something more permanant than the propane tourch. I use one of those things to light the smoker with though.  Works good for that.  I have thought about using a cast iron distubution tree and running one line in cast to the fire box and attach burner , then I would have another port to hook my camp chef stove to and a port to hook mobile propane tank to. Just not sure how to configure in the fire box to not have ash clog the thing .   Hmmmm


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## tn_bbq (Jun 2, 2008)

You might want to mount it more vertically or sorta sideways or with some type of cover/damper.

Another thought is to section it off with some type of grated guard or surround it with those lava rocks...or even an empty can of beans. 

Also might try running your hose to a grill burner (arent' those things built in such a way to prevent clogging?)

Clearly, I have no first hand experience at this. My mind is just coming up with different ideas of things I might try if I were doing something like this.


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## shooterrick (Jun 3, 2008)

Use a tube type burner off the floor of the fire box but under the wood grate.  Mount so the orifices are at a 45 degree angle.  In other words the holes of the burner are pointed to the side of the fire box not directly up.  Would this allow wood ash to fall past and not clog burner?


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## 7outof10 (Jun 3, 2008)

i have seen that done but you have to make sheur that they are off the bottom of the fire box so if you go for the really long smoke that they will not be coved up wiht ashes


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## smok'n steve (Jun 12, 2008)

The propane system I added to my Lang model 60 includes 2 restaurant burners for frying, 1 cast iron tube style restaurant oven burner for the firebox, a 25 gallon propane tank storage holder, a quick disconnect plug to feed propane from the house, and valves to either select the house or the small tank, plus another valve and quick disconnect to feed a gas grill from the smoker manifold system.  There is also a valve to inject gas into the firebox burner as needed.

Each burner requires a typical restaurant style adjustable valve with an orifice drilled out for the proper size to match your regulator.  A restaurant equipment dealer can help you with this, especially some one who deals with fixing used equipment.  If you want to deal with the guy I dealt with, I can ask him if he is willing to ship out of state:-)  The burners are solid cast iron and will last forever.  The tube burner in the firebox works well for me and hasn't clogged with ash so far.  If it does, I can remove it easily, and dump it out or vacuum it out.  

The manifold system is made from 1/2 inch black iron pipe and gas valves screwed together with pipe dope only, no teflon.  The burner area has a wind shield that is similar to a coleman camping stove.  It folds down when not in use.  Also, for additional wind protection, I cut some metal paint buckets and put them under the ring burners.  I probably didn't explain this very well, but ask me questions, and I will try to help:-)


Steve


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## shooterrick (Jun 12, 2008)

Thanks for the info and pics-especially your time. I have a good idea how I want to proceed now. Simple compaired to yours but the basic idea same. I have located several tube burners with a top angle protecting the burner from ash just in case. Shaped simiar to a A frame. I have the black scedule 40 gas pipe on hand-a freebe for the pipe. I have a dual burner high output campchef stove so side burners I will forgo. I will probably use a distubution tree on the bulk propane tank to simplify things since there are times I would use the stove and not the smoker. BTUs? I will have to look back and see if you mentioned. Thanks again.
Rick
2 ?  The larger housing holding the burner in your firebox.  What is it?  TThe flex gas line from the pipe to burner- Any problems or concerns when towing?  Thanks


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## yard dog (Jun 12, 2008)

Outstanding rig Steve. I thought the pics were great and showed plenty of detail. All I can say is, beautifull, simply beautifull


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## smok'n steve (Jun 12, 2008)

The larger housing is simply a black iron fitting that reduces from one pipe size to the next with a close nipple threaded into to small end.  This made it easy to weld on the inside of the box and I feel that the nipple reduces the chance of cracking the firebox.  The tube burner fits real nice in the fitting and I just drilled and tapped it to make the clamp holding the burner in place.  The other end of the burner is supported by another nipple just to keep it level under the grate.  For cleaning ashes, I just remove the grate, and brush them away from the burner then scoop em up with a dust pan.

The flex pipe hasn't been a problem, but if you were worried, you could add some sacrificial plastic tubing to the outside of it or something especially if you haul her on a lot of gravel roads? The only reason I installed the flex was to allow me to remove the burner easily if needed.

BTU's---I am not sure, I only drilled one orifice hole and got a nice blue flame, and never tried a bigger hole after.  I can get my deep fry oil to 375 in about 8 minutes or so.  It is much more powerful than my gas stove in the house!  I think there is a way to test it---if anyone knows, let me know:-)


For safety, my only concern is that my burner valves don't have locking stops(push & turn) to keep them from turning on if someone just hits one, so I keep bunji's on them.  I guess many restaurant ranges are built without a safety lock.

Steve


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## shooterrick (Jun 12, 2008)

Are any of the two burners I have pics of here suitable in your opinion?  They are 15.5 inches long and would fit my fire box as far as the lenght goes.  ???  The;y are both cast iron.

Attachment 9967 Attachment 9968

Rick


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## smok'n steve (Jun 13, 2008)

I think so, you will have to design a system to make them fit--I am thinking the first one will be easier to do that with so that it will be removable.  I think that ashes would be less apt to get into these styles compared to mine:-)

Go for it, its almost as fun as cook'n!!!!

Let me know what other questions you might have:-)

Sincerely,

Steve


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## shooterrick (Jun 13, 2008)

Ok sound great.  I will order the 1st burner this weakend.  I assume I will have to figure out a system to attach venturi and control valve and the manner it will be inserted into the fire box from the back side.  Also I will need a main shutoff and the means to connect to LP tank.  This will be low pressure system?  Yes No.  Rick


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## shooterrick (Jun 14, 2008)

The cast iron burner I am considering fits most charmglow grill valves and orifices are available pre drilled for propane.  The question now is how to retain a burner assembly in the fire box and reducing my black pipe to size needed to connect valve to main line.  The valve I am looking at is threaded on both in and out.  Thought that may make it easier.  
Does this sound correct?


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## hdsrob (Jun 14, 2008)

At a former employers we had 3 Lang 60's all with gas in the firebox only. If I remember correctly it was basically just a pipe with no end on it that protruded about 1/2 way into the fire box, and sat a few inches off of the floor. I believe that the local propane company did the install and it was plumbed similarly to Smok'n Steve's. We only used the gas to get the sticks going, and then turned it off for the most part, but we didn't have to do the whole smoke in the Lang, just a finish smoke since we "two staged" our stuff in a Southern Pride. It worked very well though for getting the smoker up to temp quickly, and getting the sticks going.


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## shooterrick (Jun 14, 2008)

It dawned on me that with gas assist a flame out not noticed could be well, the Q would have an impact to say the least. Is there a way to have auto shut off in this situation?
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





foiled again>  The burner I was going to use does not have long enoegh tube supply for gas to instal venturi outside fire box.  Back to the drawing board.  Steve if you are there pm me your guys name and number.  Rick


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## smok'n steve (Jun 14, 2008)

I am at a camp smok'n up some goodies, but the wife had a laptop and there is internet here, so I will try to do some research in between cook'n and get back to you.  

I was wondering if that tube would fit through the wall far enough.  Other things to think about are your grate-- it will warp quicker and you want the grates square tubing off center so the flames can go through the grate.  I primarily use mine for startups and at the end of a smoke to save wood.  I always make sure there is something burning (flames) so that there is no flame-outs.  You can hear it too.  my biggest concern has been forgetting to turn it off but I soon figure it out because you can see the extra moisture in the cooker from the burning propane!


SMS


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## smok'n steve (Jun 14, 2008)

Here is how they describe part number 1504 below......  you think you could adapt this?  its only 20 bucks!  Let me know, and I can still PM that friend of mines number if you need it, but I will need to ask him if he is Ok with that. His primary business is equipment, not parts.  If anything, he will certainly be able to help steer us in the right direction:-)

http://www.tejassmokers.com/options.htm
Log lighter pipe / gas assist with brass adapter (to fit a LPG hose) The LPG gas log lighter pipe will save you a half hour every time you start your logs. Simply turn on the gas from your propane tank and light the log lighter, wait a few minutes, and the logs are in flames.  This procedure also eliminates the need for using charcoal and smelly charcoal lighter fluid. The natural gas version is available at the same price by request.  This unit also works well as a gas assist for maintaining a constant temperature in a pit when you don't want to use wood logs or charcoal.  A relatively small flame will maintain the pit at 225 degrees (or higher).  The log lighter pipe itself, not including the cast iron venturi (gas/air mixing chamber) is 16 1/4" long.  Measuring from the end of the venturi closest to the pipe, there is 4 1/4" of just pipe before the first hole.  Then a series of  holes continue for 10 1/2".  Measuring from the last hole there is 1 1/2" of just pipe to the end of the unit.  It all adds up to 16 1/4" of pipe length.  The venturi (gas/air mixing chamber) is 3 1/4" long.  The entire log lighter is 18 1/2" long.  Wt.  1 # 11 oz.  Free shipping.


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## shooterrick (Jun 14, 2008)

Steve, I think I have decided to build the burner out of high grade non galv. steel pipe. I found a web site that has plans for a simple 2 row burner. Gas holes are 1/16 diameter on the burner. Spacing I am not sure yet. Cap one end and I can buy the venturi and orifice from TJS. That way I can use all same size pipe which I have. 3/4 inch black pipe. Plan on using an inline shut off and a 10lbs regulator. I have found a controller that is brass. I think it will work with a reducer from the 3/4 inch main line to 3/8. I will call TJS and make sure of the size of there LP orifice and go from there. Does this sound about right. I am sure by now you realize I am not a plumber.


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## smok'n steve (Jun 15, 2008)

Sounds like a plan---I think it should work.  I have a friend who made new tube burners for his gas grill by drilling out stainless steel pipe.

The only complications I can think of is the air mix and the orifice size.  As long as you start off with a small hole first, you can always move up a size if needed.  I think regulator sizes can be changed too, if needed.  

If you are anything like me(i need to see it and touch it) and want some really good ideas, try to find a local "used" restaurant appliance dealer, a guy that has old broilers, ovens, slicers, griddles, that he buys from failed restaurants and re-sells.  Maybe he would let you look at the way they are built, you can get some pretty cool ideas---also, he may have an old part you can use---just tell him you'll make him some ribs!!!!  If you are able to get some old cast iron grates, that would make you a real nice firebox grate---never warp.

Just another thought----if you had a product like a brush burner with a flex hose, I would think that as long as the hose was outside the box, you could cut it and adapt it to your back pipe using a brass barbed fitting to pipe thread.  Maybe too much"jury rigg'n" there, but I was just brainstorming.

Steve


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## shooterrick (Jun 15, 2008)

Steve, I ordered the venturi and a bug screen from TJS. They said it was already set up for the pipe burner as planned. Also they recommended a 0-20 adjustable regulator which i ordered also. The inline shutoff valve and fittings/ebows ,ect. I will get local. The grate in my fire box is not the standard expanded metal thin stuff. The frame is made from angle iron not tubular and the grate itself is a heavier expanded about 1/4 inch thick! If that becomes a problem I can replace it later. With the adjustable regulator do you think I need a controller valve at the burner?

TJS also suggested that the 2 rows of burner holes be at 45 degrees from each other and to place the burner holes down, to minimize clogging with ash. My idea for placement in the fire box is simple. A pipe sleeve through rear of fire box and a set thumb screw to hold the burner in the sleeve. Wont be air tight but I figure I can compensate with the fire box dampers. Will be easy to get out and clean though. I will get the distubution tree from Cabelas to allow me to hook up my campchef duel burner stove and that should about do it other than I am going to go with 1/2 inch schedule 40 instead of the 3/4 I have.  Burner will by 3/4.


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## shooterrick (Jun 15, 2008)

Attachment 10070
Ok so I aint no artist but this is the design of the propane assist as I see it for my Lang. Any suggestions or comments appreciated.  

The home mad burner is total 18 inches without venturi.  1 inch undrilled at cap end and 5 inches undrilled at inlet end.  It will be retained in a pipe sleeve with a set screw, 2 inches inside fire box before first flame hole.  The remaining 3 inches will be outside fire box inside pipe sleeve.  I hope this will support the burner without using legs.   
Thanks


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## smok'n steve (Jun 16, 2008)

Can't wait to see it as you build it:-)  

Talk later,

Steve


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## shooterrick (Jun 16, 2008)

I cut the pipe and threaded today.  Wil pick up adapters and fittings later this week.  When I am ready to dry fit the basic system I will take pics.  Probably next week as my wife has camera in Missouri at grandmothers 96th birthday.  The lady ate lard all her life.  I look at fat and have to have my arteries roto rootered.


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