# Vintage Hobart Slicer Restoration



## bubbonehead

A few months ago my Mother-in-law gave me this Hobart 411 slicer. I committed to restoring it when I found time. I finally got around to starting the project this weekend. There are a few pieces missing. I found a couple on-line. The rest I'll have to make myself.








This is what I'm starting with. Notice the adjustment handle is missing, found that one on-line (not cheap). Part of the mechanism underneath I'll have to make.







There's a big dent in the motor housing that I'll need to pound out.







The sharpener is missing also and not available. That's going to be a tricky one.







So now I've disassembled and started polishing parts.







Time consuming work, but sure is shiny! This is going to take a while to complete but it should be really nice when it's done.


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## pops6927

Is not the part labeled Hobart the sharpener? or is it an add on set of stones?


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## bubbonehead

Pops6927 said:


> Is not the part labeled Hobart the sharpener? or is it an add on set of stones?


The sharpener is a set of stones and mechanism that sit under that cover that says Hobart.







Looks like this. This is a photo from the website I found a couple other parts on but they only have the picture, not the real thing.


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## bubbonehead

I gave up trying to find the OEM sharpener. I bought one for a newer model in hopes of being able to figure out how to make it work for me.

The geometry of the two slicers is different enough that I soon realized this wasn't going to be easy.

I decided my best bet was to rig something up using my lathe to sharpen the blade. I take the blade off the slicer to clean it anyway.







First I made a shaft like the one that the blade bolts to on the slicer that I could put in the lathe chuck.

Then I made a bracket for the sharpener to bolt to. I know it looks simple but trust me, getting the geometry and angle just right took a little doing.













I put oil on the stones like I would when honing my knives. Can anyone tell me if that's the correct way to use these?

The blade definitely got way sharper than it was.


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## pops6927

No, it is done dry, and now and then rinse off the unit and stones with high pressure hose, like a garden hose and clean them as little bits of meat and fat clog the stones.  Great setup and a lot of ingenuity!  That is the one thing about a slicer; if you don't have sharpening stones, you don't have a slicer.  I'd definitely get a pair of cutting gloves handling the blade!  From AceMart: (www.acemart.com)

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## pops6927

Did you check out this from Hobart?  Don't know which ML you have, but may be able to order it in parts form or as a completed unit.

http://www.hobartservice.com/parts/default.aspx

Go to SmartParts and enter your ML no., it will show a list of parts and if you select a View % it will show an exploded view with corresp. part identifiers.


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## frosty

Way to go Pops!  I was looking at this, and you beat me to the punch!  Great job!
	

	
	
		
		



		
		
	


	





I am so jealous of this slicer.  Oh well, I can dream.


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## scarbelly

Looks like it is going to be a challenging but rewarding project


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## bubbonehead

Thanks Pops! I have a pair of cut resistant gloves like that but mine have little rubber bumps on them for improved grip.

Unfortunately the parts that I need are no longer available from Hobart. I was able to download the manual though.

I guess I better get back to work on it. I don't want to be without it too long and I can't wait to see it all shiny!


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## pops6927

Dang, too bad!


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## smokinhusker

Great restoration and ingenuity! I'm jealous though


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## bubbonehead

OK Friends, it's been a long weekend. So many things to get done in two days.







First I started building this retaining wall so that I can get the level part of my yard closer to the woods. Now I need dirt! Some day I'll build a proper work shop out there, in the mean time no more chasing balls out into the woods.







Loaded up my 2010 Ultra Limited so I could take her to the dealership in the morning. Something weird happening with the radio speakers cutting out.

A month and a half left on the warranty, might as well let them figure it out.

Also took my eldest grandson for a bicycle ride through our little town.

He thinks I'm being cool spending time alone with him.

Truth is I really need the exercise. We have fun, wind blowing his hair (I have none), girls calling his name and waving, me sweating profusely and panting.







I did get to spend some (a bunch) of time polishing this piece. Not there yet, Man this thing has seen some use?

The bolt that it pivots on, I actually had to press out after cutting it off!

Dang! Forgot to repair the two year old's bed! He broke using it as a trampoline!


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## LanceR

Bubbonehead, that is really going to look good.  It suspect that with it sharpened and everything cleaned so it is smoother it will be a real pleasure to use and will work as well as it looks.  Hopefully you've got a spot where you can park it and use it without having to move it much.  They are too heavy to want to tote around often.

We've got a pair of them and although we don't use them often we do use them for sandwich steaks during deer season and for processing bulk cold cuts.  They sure make short work out of big jobs.

Lance


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## bubbonehead

Thanks Lance,

I plan to keep it on the microwave cart in the first photos. I just need to add some lockable casters to it.


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## LanceR

We have a large old farmhouse but like many 19th century houses the kitchen is quite small by modern standards and what is one the other side of the walls keeps me from enlarging it.  We built a fairly large pantry into a nearby room but it doesn't lend itself to having a cart so I tote a slicer into the kitchen when I need it.

Nancy had a 10" commercial slicer that had been given her by a friend before we met.  About 5 years ago at a local government auction I bought a 12" Univex 8512 automatic slicer listed as non-working that had the blade ruined beyond saving by improper use of the sharpener and honer.  When I tore it down there is a nylon worm gear that acts as a sacrificial item to protect the other gears and that was partially sheared.  I replace all the wear items, lubed it and lucked into a new in the package blade on Ebay for around $70 shipped.  I've got about $340 in the slicer.

At some point we'll likely sell the smaller one or donate it to one of the local outfits that serve free meals.  Like yours it was made when metal was cheap and it weighs about 130 pounds.  The big one is "only" 110 pounds.

If you are like me and like to do big batches when you do things like bacon, Canadian bacon, cured and smoked boneless chops etc you are really going to like the efficiency in getting through a big batch of meat.

I really liked the smoker build thread and am looking forward to seeing this one finished.  Have you decided on a paint color yet?

Lance


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## bubbonehead

I'm still toying around with color. I'm leaning toward something like a deep dark cranberry. I think that would really set off the polished aluminum parts and would look good in our kitchen.


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## LanceR

Dang, I can't let Nancy see that.  She thought your smoker was cool but if she saw a cranberry red slicer she'd have me prepping and painting her original one.  I've got enough projects backed up now that my projects have projects.....

Lance


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## bubbonehead

After a few weeks with no time to work on the slicer, and with triple digit temperatures all weekend I decided it was time to stay in the garage.

One weekend last summer my AC quit on me and I had to run out and buy a small window unit to get us through til Monday when I could go buy an $8 capacitor.

After the central air was back on I claimed the window unit for the garage. Man is that nice! How did we ever survive without AC?







This is my version of one of the parts I am missing that is part of the mechanism that sets the thickness of slice.

I have no idea how much this may or may not look like the original, but it works and you can't see it when it's assembled. 

After installing it I realized I didn't have full range of motion because I had made this too short. So I cut it in half and welded a 1/4" extension in the middle.







This is where it goes on the under side. Here you can see the extension.







Here's the top side view. Sorry for the shaky video.


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## bubbonehead

Today was more disassembly, cleaning parts and removing the old paint.Not a whole lot to show other than a pile of cleaned and stripped parts, but for some reason I've logged on twice now and the buttons that allow you to do things like post pictures are missing.I'll add a pic later if the buttons return.


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## bubbonehead




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## bubbonehead

Shiny! At this rate I figure I'll be done with this in just a few short years.


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## LanceR

That slicer will be looking far better than new when you get done.  You've got a lot more patience than I have.

Lance


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## bubbonehead

Thank you Lance. That's my intention anyway.

When I started this I didn't expect it to eat up so much time. The oxidation is allot deeper and harder to buff out than I imagined.

Still, it will be worth having done once this thing is sitting in the kitchen shining like a new penny.







The shiny parts pile grows!


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## boykjo

Nice workmanship...............and patience..

Joe


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## LanceR

Must...not...let...Nancy...see...


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## mikedani

I found a website that has many parts you are looking for.... Here is a link to the sharpener

Here is another link to one on EBAY


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## bubbonehead

mikedani said:


> I found a website that has many parts you are looking for.... Here is a link to the sharpener
> 
> Here is another link to one on EBAY


Thanks Mike but that's for a model 410, mine is a 411. That's even the same website I bought a few parts from. Judging from the price their asking for that sharpener, I'm glad they don't have the one I need! The one I've got will do for now. At some point down the road I'll probably take a stab making one from scratch based on the picture I found and using parts from this one. Right now I'm sanding primer on a few parts and jonesing to shoot a little color just see how it looks.


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## southernsausage

awesome man!


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## bubbonehead

20120718_203953.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 18, 2012


















20120718_203953.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 18, 2012






I never used white primer before. The part to the right that looks like a Katy Perry (yes, I know who that is) (grandkids) wardrobe item, had a huge dent in it. That took some time.













20120718_205349.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 18, 2012






Looks a little redder than I had in my head. I'll sand it tomorrow and clearcoat it, see what that looks like.













20120718_210649.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 18, 2012


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## mikedani

Looking good, I myself just found a deal on a 1612e slicer and will pick it up on Saturday.


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## bubbonehead

mikedani said:


> Looking good, I myself just found a deal on a 1612e slicer and will pick it up on Saturday.


Nice, I like how the newer ones sit at an angle so that gravity helps feed whatever you're slicing into the blade. Congrats!


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## bubbonehead

20120720_151515.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 20, 2012






This color is growing on me. I think it will look really nice. The wife likes it, I guess that's all that really matters.


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## bubbonehead

20120722_203409.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 22, 2012


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## mikedani

This is one heck of a nice restoration, keep up the great work. Can you share your polishing process, the 1612e I got needs it really bad. 

Thanks 
Mike


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## michael ark

Looks great! You are doin a great job.Thumbs Up


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## bubbonehead

mikedani said:


> This is one heck of a nice restoration, keep up the great work. Can you share your polishing process, the 1612e I got needs it really bad.
> Thanks
> Mike


No problem. I use a variety of tools and polishing compounds.













20120723_190746.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 23, 2012






This is my bench grinder with a 6" polishing wheel mounted to one side.

Problem with this is the grinder is only a 1/2 horse and too easy to bog down.













20120723_190814.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 23, 2012






I use these smaller ones in my drill. Just depends on what part and how tight the space.













20120723_190829.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 23, 2012






You can get all this stuff a Harbor Freight. This is the two compounds I'm using, they have others for different applications.

The black cuts through fast then the grey gives you a finer polish.













20120723_191509.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 23, 2012






I use this last for that high shine or for spots I can only get a finger tip into.













20120723_190853.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jul 23, 2012






This is the work horse. Two 8" polishing wheels on an 11" rod in my lathe. I can't bog this puppy down!

But you do need to keep a tight grip on your piece or it can become a projectile without warning.







Here's a quick video I made with a piece of scrap when I got home from work. Sorry for the shakiness, holding my phone with one hand and the steel in the other.

No talking thou, can't stand the sound of my recorded voice. Somewhere between Ray Romano and Lerch from the Adams Family.


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## bubbonehead

I've been in the process of stripping and repainting a couple parts that just didn't come out the way I wanted.













20120813_072541.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 13, 2012






This is one that I felt like I needed to get better. I like how it's looking now.













20120813_072531.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 13, 2012






I got the motor housing painted. I'll give it a couple days to set before I start buffing it out.

Slow going to say the least.


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## scarbelly

Man that is really looking nice. Great job


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## JckDanls 07

glad I subscribed to this...  been wanting to see the FP (finished product)...  Excellent job your doing Bub


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## reelfootyankee

dont mean to hi jack, hello and nice job on the restro.!! been up since 2am and went threw 20 pages of searching for parts for my hobart 410 and need sharpener and handle fix(was welded before)but will have redone! then clicked and your post on this cite popped up next,so its 8 and the coffees on and il be calling old slicer parts.com the other hobart 410 cite also. if u fellas have any info on were i can i'd apprc. nice to meat'cha meat cutter,john


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## bubbonehead

Thanks guys! Still taking baby steps, but it started looking like a slicer again today instead of a pile of parts.

One more big piece still needs paint and a lot of polishing yet to do on a bunch of parts. 













20120819_094127.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 19, 2012


















20120819_094216.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 19, 2012


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## smokeamotive

Looks great! Sure helps to have all the right toys. What brand of Lathe you have?


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## bubbonehead

It's a Smithy CB-1239. I found it on Craigslist a few years ago sitting sitting on a couple 4x4s beside this Mennonite fella's barn. It was a pile of rust shaped like a lathe/mill combo. my wife thought I was crazy to offer him $1000. OK, crazy? I've heard that more than a couple times! Stupid? No, not really. You wouldn't believe how much I use this thing! The motor that runs the mill went up in smoke a few months ago, but that's fixable and for what it is, I'm happy with it. Some day I'll upgrade to a stand alone lathe and mill. That shop teacher I had back in high school just didn't know what he started. Mr. Morrison at Kewanee High, You'd be proud if you only knew everything I've done with what you taught me. It's really a shame that so many high schools are ending these programs! Amen!


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## ronrude

I really enjoy the detail and craftsmanship in your posts.  This is going to be a jewel.  That would deserve to be a showpiece in any kitchen.


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## smokeamotive

Bubbonehead said:


> That shop teacher I had back in high school just didn't know what he started. Mr. Morrison at Kewanee High, You'd be proud if you only knew everything I've done with what you taught me. It's really a shame that so many high schools are ending these programs! Amen!


X2...... only my teachers name was Mr Ashby!


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## bubbonehead

Killer weekend! Did a slab of baby backs (best I've ever done) and a butterflied chicken for lunch. By dinner time the brisket was ready, burnt ends still on the smoker.

Oh yeah, worked on the slicer too!













20120825_200609.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






Yes, that is bondo!













20120825_202323.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






Primed.













20120826_153021.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






Painted.

Oh, sure, the Q!













20120826_130828.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






So tender! So good! When I wrapped for the middle two (3, 2, 1), I brushed on a mix of Mayo, butter and brown sugar. I think that's my new thing!













20120826_130915.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






Thanks Jeff, very good!













20120826_180834.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






Sorry for the dark pics. My kitchen needs more light for sure.


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## daveomak

BH, evening.....  If that were mine, I would contact Hobart and see if they wanted it for their museum..... Of course they would have to trade for a new slicer...   I would be hesitant to use it....

Dave


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## bubbonehead

Thank you Dave. Burnt ends are done! I've been standing in the kitchen making noises like a fat kid in a fudge factory.













20120826_200033.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 26, 2012






OMG! Melt in your mouth, hard to keep on a fork, I don't know if any of these will make it to the fridge.


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## shoneyboy

Bubbonehead said:


> Thank you Dave. Burnt ends are done! I've been standing in the kitchen making noises like a fat kid in a fudge factory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20120826_200033.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> __ bubbonehead
> __ Aug 26, 2012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OMG! Melt in your mouth, hard to keep on a fork, I don't know if any of these will make it to the fridge.


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## daveomak

What Shoneyboy said.....   2X.....    Dave


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## woodcutter

My mother just gave me an old rival slicer from the 60's I think and the blade is in rough shape and obsolete. I have it so I can cut again from using a flat file and then hard honing stone. I have the same passion you have with this slicer only with antique tractors. Everything you want is somewhere some place. The accomplishment of restoring it is what makes cool.


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## boykjo

I've been standing in the kitchen making noises like a fat kid in a fudge factory.

Good one................


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## bubbonehead

WoodCutter, old tractors are so cool. My Wife has heard me say more than a couple times that we need to move to the country so I can get a tractor. There's just something about restoring something old too, whether it's an old truck, car, motorcycle or tractor. Even a food slicer!


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## michael ark

Everything looks great!Thumbs Up


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## bubbonehead

20120902_160214.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Sep 2, 2012


















20120902_164715.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Sep 2, 2012


















20120902_163656.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Sep 2, 2012


















20120902_164731.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Sep 2, 2012






*Becaaaaaaaaaaaaause!!!*







Yes, I'm still working on it.


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## JckDanls 07

man this thing looks fantabulous...  probably won't even want to use it when it's finished


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## michael ark

Nice skills. That look brand new.


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## bubbonehead

JckDanls 07 said:


> man this thing looks fantabulous... probably won't even want to use it when it's finished


I've heard that a couple times now, but that's just not part of the plan. What's the point in having it if you don't use it?

That would be like building an awesome custom bike and never riding it, or making a delicious sandwich and not eating it,

or getting your wife that boob job she keeps talking about and never . . . . . . .  well if you're going to have something.


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## michael ark

Boob job!:biggrin::biggrin:


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## bubbonehead

Got a new power cord wired up and was very relieved to find that it still works when I flip the very old toggle switch.













20120906_133906.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Sep 6, 2012


















20120906_151014.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Sep 6, 2012






Finally started polishing the base plate, Looks like it's going to come out pretty shiny.


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## whtplainssmoker

Wow.  This is some restoration project.   It's like an episode of "Overhaulin" or "Pimp my Ride".  That Hobart will look better than it ever did when you are done.


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## bubbonehead

WhtPlainsSmoker said:


> Wow.  This is some restoration project.   It's like an episode of "Overhaulin" or "Pimp my Ride".  That Hobart will look better than it ever did when you are done.


I love that Overhaulin show! This big lump of manly man tears up every time! Or how about American Restoration or the new one, Counting Cars! That truck that Danny drives is so cool! I can't die before I get a chance to restore something like that. That and an old Knucklehead. Then I can die. Well, after I drive/ride them a bunch. I mean, you got to put your face between them and go BBBBBBBBBBBBbbbbbbbbbbbbsttp!!! Thanks Guys. I really appreciate the comments.


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## JckDanls 07

what's the latest on the slicer ?


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## bubbonehead

It's been stalled. Life has been happening here by the barrel full. All my energy has been going towards retaining my sanity. I hope to get back on it soon. Thanks for asking.


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## mike johnson

WOW!! You sure have the skill.You take the " If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right " to the tenth power. It looks AMAZING.


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## smokenonymous

This is amazing I was just looking for stuff to restore my 411 and saw this! EXACTLY what I was planning to do. I hope mine comes out even 1/2 as good as yours is.

 Absolutely Great Post.


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## bubbonehead

I haven't had any time to work on this for quite a while now. On those rare occasions that I do try to make a little progress, I've been trying to resolve a couple flaws in the paint job. I think I'm to the point where I've tried to "fix" it enough that it just needs to be completely stripped down so I can start over. I will not use this same paint or primer again. It's been very frustrating to say the least.


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## woodcutter

Bummer about the paint, but I will tell you what you have posted is very photogenic!


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## roger shoaf

Bubbonehead said:


> I haven't had any time to work on this for quite a while now. On those rare occasions that I do try to make a little progress, I've been trying to resolve a couple flaws in the paint job. I think I'm to the point where I've tried to "fix" it enough that it just needs to be completely stripped down so I can start over. I will not use this same paint or primer again. It's been very frustrating to say the least.


Powder coat?


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## daveomak

BH, evening....  Did you use that "green" aluminum primer ???   some type of phosphate primer if I remember correctly....


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## bubbonehead

071915244537.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jan 16, 2013






I used this primer. It's white, and did really make the paint seem bright.













071915244094.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jan 16, 2013






And this paint. It says fast drying but days later it wasn't hard enough to handle.

Every time I looked at it I found a new problem. I also used a clear coat of this product.

Weeks later I noticed that were I had cleared over the polished logo, the clear coat looked shattered.

I rattle canned this thing because of it's size. Maybe that was a mistake.

When I redo it I'll buy paint for my paint gun. Sorry for leaving this project hanging for so long. I'll get back to it.


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## frosty

Bubbonehead, hang in there with it!

You've been showing us a thing or three and I think your work is outstanding.  I understand it is terribly frustrating, and you want perfection.

 I assume that we all just want to drool over how beautiful it looks when your hard work pays off, and look forward to that.

Like DaveOmak said, I don't know if powder coating it would be a good idea or worth it, but it would sure be pretty.

Good luck with it.


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## daveomak

BH, morning.... I was close.... Zinc chromate primer.....   The problem with aluminum... It oxidizes instantly... and I mean within milliseconds...  You can't see it but it is there....  That is why it stays shiny... the micro thin layer of aluminum oxide will protect the metal from further oxidation and leave a nice surface to look at....  but that is about it.... paint won't stick .....   I have no idea about powder coating it.... Unless you could powder coat zinc chromate first and then a second paint layer, I would not spend the money.....

I have painted outboard motors and parts of my aluminum boat using a similar primer and a top coat of Rust Oleum and it is still in service 10 years later..... No chips or flaking....   Of course, my boat is in the yard and not on the kitchen counter.... 

Check out the temps powder coating requires... You can easily remove the work hardening from the metal turning it into a useless piece of crap....  On second thought, I would not powder coat the slicer... Too much could go wrong....   The metallurgy of aluminum is strange... unlike other metals in a lot of respects....   

Painting and gluing aluminum is especially important in the aircraft industry, which uses toxic zinc chromate primers  and chromating  to add the necessary adhesion properties.

http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/marine_paints/primers/


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## bubbonehead

Wow! Thanks DaveO!

I honestly did not know that. Very good information.

I guess that means I can not clear coat over the polished logo at all. Knowing that will save me future frustration. I really appreciate the info.


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## daveomak

You are welcome....  Nothing will stop it from oxidizing....  We had mounted samples we polished to run under the electron microscope to analyze grain structure and size... In a few days, under pristine storage conditions, they were worthless from the oxide coating.... S**t happens... 

To the naked eye, a polished surface should last a couple years without much degradation...  Caustic solutions like ammonia and electric dishwasher soap really attack aluminum fast and bad....


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## 2cycle

I just found this thread. My mother has a mod# 411 she wants to sell. It is all there including the complete sharpener assy. Message me if interested. It is in Athens, GA.


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## 2cycle

Sorry ya'll... My mother just gave it to me today. It runs great, but is a greasey mess in all the manual moving parts, like Cosmoline on a battle rifle that has been in storage for +60yrs.


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## gregg bridge

i have a complete working slicer if your interested PM me, i was asking 350.00 gregg


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## melissay71

I have a used Hobart meat slicer 411.  It works and i was going to list it. if you're interested in it for missing parts send me a email. I'm not sure what shipping would be but I live in Texas.


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## nicofellow

Hi thee i recently got a hobart 410 also but dont have a sharpener now i saw u rigged up one so you could sharpen your blade could you go in more detail so that i might be able to reproduce it thanks or were to buy one also awesome job on the restoration. 
 thanks -nico


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## dmark

Hi Bubbonehead -I  am trying to restore a Hobart 411 as well.  Just like yours, mine is missing the piece you made so the slicer blade width can be adjusted.  I was wondering if you could send me the dimensions so I can try to copy your design - would be much appreciated.  Mine is also missing the rear blade guard -I discovered this the hard way when I grabbed the blade to move it an got a nasty cut -OUCH.  I'd like to try to fabricate one but again I got no dimensions - any help would be much appreciated - best regards dmark .


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## smokin bark

That is just too cool. I've found a few modern slicers on line but they just seem too cheap and flimsy. That has Art Deco and good old American Workmanship all in one. Well done.


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## bubbonehead

I've had a couple requests for drawings of the adjustment arm I made. I'm sorry but I don't. I've taken it off and taken a few more pictures of it, one with a ruler next to it. I hope this helps.













IMG_20150816_084152060_HDR[1].jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 16, 2015


















IMG_20150816_084204823[1].jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 16, 2015


















IMG_20150816_084319476_HDR[1].jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 16, 2015


















IMG_20150816_084349211[1].jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Aug 16, 2015


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## bubbonehead

The weld around the arm is due to it having been too long originally. I had to cut a section out and weld it back together. Trial and error!


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## lucky thompson

Please call or leave a number I need only one part 2094304622 or [email protected] thank you


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## lucky thompson

How much


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## lucky thompson

Thats the part I really need


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## webscrounger

I know it's been a while since you posted this but here's a belated THANKS! The breakdown helps a lot with my resto project.

Not to steal the thread but I recently bought two of these in excellent running (and aesthetic) shape, one grey and one orange, complete with sharpeners. The sharpeners are gummed up but otherwise in excellent shape. The gearboxes need fresh lube. They have only two critical issues. One slicer is missing one of the large thumbscrews that secures the sharpener. The other has the typical broken adjuster lever, as you've shown above. Someone already made a crude/ failed attempt to weld mine together and it did not hold. It's a ral mess and I'm not sure I can salvage the remaining pieces. I was thinking of making a mold and then recasting it, or 3-D modeling it an CNC'ing one, but that's a lot of work and/or expense.

If anybody that has either of these parts lying around (Ha! Ha!) I'd be interested in hearing from you. Thanks.


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## bbvette

I also appreciate this thread on restoring the Hobart 411.  I have never had a slicer, but I am into vintage tool restoaration, and of course, only a vintage slicer will do!  I just got a 411 on ebay, and plan to bring it back like this unit shown here.  All seems well with the unit I received last night........but I think I have the broken indexer scenaro too, I need to check.  I am planning to bring her back in Cobalt Blue, like the color on the current Kitchen Aid mixers.  Maybe gold lettering  on the Hobart wording on the sharpener cover.  I am planning to try powder coat, I have done that in the past on restorations of other items.  I would bake the parts first to avoid any air cavity powder pop ups in the finish. I may still go the paint route, but I love the durability of powder and the fast cure with no dry time.

Thanks again for this great article. I have poured over it too.  I may try and make a mold of the part and get some cast at cattail foundary.  I am into tool restoration and our group has worked with several foudaries that do small batch parts.

Thanks again for the information here, it is invaluable...........Craig


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## pale-alefroman

Bubbonehead said:


> OK Friends, it's been a long weekend. So many things to get done in two days.
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> Also took my eldest grandson for a bicycle ride through our little town.
> He thinks I'm being cool spending time alone with him.
> Truth is I really need the exercise. We have fun, wind blowing his hair (I have none), girls calling his name and waving, me sweating profusely and panting.
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> The bolt that it pivots on, I actually had to press out after cutting it off!
> Dang! Forgot to repair the two year old's bed! He broke using it as a trampoline!



I've got a question about this piece you were working on. I'm in the middle of a complete breakdown of my recently acquired 411 and I can't seem to remove my pivot post either and I'm afraid I'm going to destroy it trying. You had to cut yours off completely? If I'm understanding that correctly, what did you replace it with? 

Next question I have is, was your motor housing difficult to separate from the base? I was thinking that pivot screw must go all the way through to the base but it doesn't appear so in your other breakdown pictures. There's just the 4 bolts on the underneath side, right? 

I know it's been a while since you were at this point, but any insight would be appreciated! 

Also, I'll take pictures of the piece you had to fabricate once I have that all taken a part.


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## bubbonehead

I can't tell looking at it and honestly don't remember. When I get home from work tonight I'll remove the bolt I used and see if that helps me answer your question.


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## bubbonehead

20170118_193935.jpg



__ bubbonehead
__ Jan 18, 2017






The pivot bolt does not go all the way through into the base. I don't really remember but based on my having said that I pressed it out after cutting the head off I'd assume that it did not have threads and was pressed in originally, something not evident until it was so far apart. I suspect that I tapped the hole to accommodate this bolt. Being a long time Harley rider I have SS and chrome hardware lying around the shop and just grabbed what was handy. I do remember making this sleeve for the bolt to pass through to make up the difference in diameter between the bolt and the hole through the guard. I hope this info helps you out, Good luck!


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## bbvette

Thanks for the great restoration article.  I have a 411 also I plan to restore.  I checked mine, and the pin you are describing is a shouldered and threaded specialty bolt with a screwhead, a larger smooth shaft section, and a smaller end with threads to go into the base. So basically you must have just replaced the shouldered specialty bolt with an sleeve and standard bolt to create a means to tighten and allow the deflector to pivot.

Craig


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## bubbonehead

Ah yes, I remember now! On mine the bolt you're describing was seized in the deflector so that each time you opened it you actually threaded the bolt in and out of the body. I had to cut it off just below the deflector and then press it out of the deflector itself. Thanks for the memory jog!


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## fredtmoose

I have a Hobart 410. My wife and I run her families guest ranch which was built in 1935. I think this unit was built in 1939. Can you give me more info on the paint you used and how it was applied. Do I need to remove all old paint?  Thanks, Bennett


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## daveomak

fredtmoose said:


> I have a Hobart 410. My wife and I run her families guest ranch which was built in 1935. I think this unit was built in 1939. Can you give me more info on the paint you used and how it was applied. Do I need to remove all old paint?  Thanks, Bennett


Re-read this thread..  start at about post 67...  everything is explained...

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/121977/vintage-hobart-slicer-restoration/60


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## fredtmoose

Thanks Dave. My unit is a 411 not a 410... typo. What would be the best way to remove the old paint? Would there be any issues with leaving the aluminum bare? Especially from a  sanitary and cleaning point of view. I am more concerned about sanitation and toxicity rather then appearance as I plan to use the slicer. Thanks for your thoughts. Bennett


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## daveomak

Rustoleum paint stripper...  


If you paint the slicer,  a zinc chromate or etching primer is a must on aluminum...   regular paint / primer will not work...  



Then I would use a quality automotive high gloss or marine high gloss for a top coat..    Maybe an appliance enamel...    any quality top coat would be food safe for the slicer...

If you leave the aluminum bare, when you touch it, it will leave a black residue on your hands or foods that is "aluminum oxidized"..   it oxidizes instantly upon air contact...


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## fredtmoose

Thanks for the info. I'll keep you informed. Bennett


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## daveomak




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## chris blazer

Hopefully this is not jacking your thread, did you have to take the motor out? I am doing a restore on the same model and I am having a hell of a time pulling the motor itself out of the casing.

P.S. Amazing work. I hope that mine comes out half as good!

Thank you for any information that you can provide!


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## daveomak

Chris Blazer said:


> Hopefully this is not jacking your thread, did you have to take the motor out? I am doing a restore on the same model and I am having a hell of a time pulling the motor itself out of the casing.
> 
> P.S. Amazing work. I hope that mine comes out half as good!
> 
> Thank you for any information that you can provide!


Some motors have access holes where the motor brushes can be released from the commutator...    look for some type of access point....   google rebuilding that particular motor....


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## chris blazer

I ended up getting it all apart and decided it was not worth it. Back together it went and now I need to pick a paint for this thing... I love the red that OP went with, however, I may need to switch it up.


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## daveomak

Be sure to use an etching primer or your paint won't stick.....  I have used this primer on an outboard motor bracket I built for my boat...  14 years later, the paint is still like new... 

Product description

show up to 2 reviews by default 
For aluminum surfaces above or below the waterline. This powerful primer etches into the aluminum, forming a strong surface/primer union that is resistant to corrosion. For steel and iron surfaces, especially welded joints. This corrosive barrier contains 95% of zinc, for maximum resistance against solvents & abrasions.


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## chefberni

Just found this after acquiring same model.Going to go the same route and color.Yours looks awesome!!Disassembly is about 80%done.Found out by accident that TSP90Heavy duty cleaner  (from red devil)is a great paint stripper.Didn't plan on it,but cut (50+years?) old grease real well,when I came back after soaking it ,the paint came of also...


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## Vance Amos

I just picked up a Hobart 411 myself today and plan on restoring it...it's pretty much all there and seems to run great.  I am looking for the part on the under side that fits into the shaft of the thickness arm on top..I believe it attaches with a set screw and has a bearing that rides in a groove also underneath... Anyone having any info on where I could find one would be greatly appreciated!   Thanks


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## 2cycle

I'm missing only three parts to mine. I have it all freed up from years of crud buildup. I'm missing the same cam that you are describing. And also the thumbscrew that adjusts the tension on the meat slice, and one screw from the carriage. I'm attaching the original manual for it.


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## Red850

I was doing some storage room cleaning at the nursing home I work at and found an old Hobart 411 tucked away in a far corner.  It looks in good shape.  I plugged it in and turned it on and it worked, but it sounds like the blade is scraping on something.  I'm attaching a few pictures.  I'm willing to part it out as a number of posts seem to be looking for parts.  I've attached pictures, if you see a part you are looking for please contact me by email and make me an offer.  Thanks.


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## JckDanls 07

NO WAY...  why would you want to part it out... especially if it still works...


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## tunachaser75

I have a Hobart 411 in very goof condition.  I have disassembled degreassed the whole machine and everything is working smoothly.  I am located in CT but was wondering best way to sell this and a fair price.  I can add pictures if needed or wanted.  Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ed


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## a1anorth

I just picked up a Hobart 311 that had all it’s parts.  I learned a lot from this thread and I plan on using a lot of technique I picked up, so thanks fo sharing.

A question regarding paint, would this Rustoleum primer work?







Or, should I get the brand from Amazon?


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## daveomak

See post #104.... 
Use that type of primer and then spray an oil based paint over the primer...  like high gloss rustoleum...  I wold NOT use any fast dry products..  use the old style Rustoleum..   that's what I used on my Duckworth boat....  Clean the aluminum metal, after sanding or what ever you do with several wipes using a clean paper towel and acetone to get off any oily residue..  If you notice any black residue as you are wiping it to clean, THAT is the instantly forming "rust"...  oxidation .....
After going to all the trouble of refinishing, you surely don't want the paint to flake off....
Aluminum is a totally different animal to paint....    It "rusts" instantly when cut or sanded forming an aluminum oxide on the surface regular paints will NOT stick to...


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## a1anorth

Good deal.  I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions, will start a new thread when I get to work.  Got another project to finish first, hopefully be on the slicer soon.


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## pullen0

I just bought a Hobart 411 slicer at an auction.  It's almost complete.  I'm missing the rear blade guard and the 13201 truing wheel on the sharpener was broken.  The 13200 sharpening wheel still looks good.  I've got it completely disassembled other than the motor housing.  I can't tell if the motor cap is threaded on or pressed in.  Any suggestions for removing it?  This thing was completely filthy and I want to completely clean it, strip off all the chipped paint, etc.


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