# Question about heat element placement.



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 12, 2021)

I’m starting my smoker build this 8 day break and I was wondering if it mattered if the element was above or below my smoker tube?
This may take a while so I want most of the design stuff done right the first time. 
 I know I will think of something I wish I added after it’s finished though!!!


----------



## tag0401 (Jan 12, 2021)

I would think you would get a better ignition with it below. Look forward to seeing pictures of your build!


----------



## SmokinEdge (Jan 12, 2021)

Smoke tube above the fire. If below, the fire can consume the smoke.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 13, 2021)

It will be electric so I hope there isn’t much fire. 
 I also need to do some research on the Auberins PID and fan kits.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 13, 2021)

It will be mostly for sausage so I only need it to get to 180 or so.  My MES 40 has been good but it’s a little small.


----------



## daveomak (Jan 13, 2021)

I suggest the smoke tube below the heat source...   If the pellets get warm, they burn up REALLY fast....
That being said, when using propane, flame consumes smoke so above the burner, off to the side to avoid the heat or in a mail box mod...


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 13, 2021)

Thanks Edge and Dave.  This may turn into a propane smoker if I can’t get up to temp. 
 I worry about achieving consistent low temps with propane.


----------



## cmayna (Jan 13, 2021)

If you are plan to run around 180, I would go electric.    Your MES40 would be perfect.  Yes for Auber PID 1510ELPM controller.     Have you considered running a mailbox mod for your tube?


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 13, 2021)

Cmayna, I have done the mod with an old smoke hollow, but not the mes 40. 
I’m sure it would be good with the Masterbuilt, I’m just needing a larger chamber. 
 I’m looking at the AuberWSD-1500H-W which may be overkill (don’t know much about PIDs but what I’ve learned on here)
And the Auber CIRFAN 40.


----------



## cmayna (Jan 13, 2021)

If you have a 1200 element in your 40, then a 1500 watt controller is a perfect match.  Far from being an overkill.


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Jan 13, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> This may turn into a propane smoker if I can’t get up to temp.




I was looking for what size smoker you plan on building ?? 

 I had a 3' x 3' x 6' and used two heat elements from an old oven (bake and broil from same oven)... Of coarse it was 220v ... I could get it to 300`+ with no problem...  although I never cooked above 180` ... being it was just a plywood smokehouse I never ran high heat...  just wanted that much heat for opening and closing of the door ...  

I would suggest putting smoker tube as far away from element as possible on the bottom...


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 14, 2021)

JckD, this started at 3’x3’x6’ but I think it’s going to be 30”x30”x6’.  I would like to stay 110v but can get 220 if I need to. 
It now looks like I will have to work OT all weekend so the start may be delayed. 
 I have a buddy that owns an industrial insulation company so I’m hoping he can steer me in the right direction on insulation. I.E.  donate some!!!


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Jan 14, 2021)

I did see somebody had gotten a 1800w 110v element somewhere on here...  but if I remember correctly it had a controller built into it...  The biggest 110v element I've seen is 1500w...  I couldn't get my smokehouse up to temp with that..  but then again it wasn't insulated ether .. That's why I went with the oven elements ...


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 14, 2021)

I see the brinkmann has a 1500w that’s readily available.


----------



## 2008RN (Jan 16, 2021)

JckDanls 07 said:


> I was looking for what size smoker you plan on building ??
> 
> I had a 3' x 3' x 6' and used two heat elements from an old oven (bake and broil from same oven)... Of coarse it was 220v ... I could get it to 300`+ with no problem...  although I never cooked above 180` ... being it was just a plywood smokehouse I never ran high heat...  just wanted that much heat for opening and closing of the door ...
> 
> I would suggest putting smoker tube as far away from element as possible on the bottom...




I totally agree, I have a fridge smoker with a 220v stove top element.  It is plenty to heat up the fridge.  I have a external mailbox for smoke source.  I did try putting in a Tube smoker (AMNTS) inside, and it was hard to keep the AMNTS lit with the tube above the element, I have never had problems with the AMNTS staying lit in the mailbox.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 16, 2021)

Does anyone know if I could use the 110 outlet on the Auber pid that is for smoke generator to run the cirfan 40?
 It seems all you have to do is program for smoke generator to run for each step and that would power the fan. 
 I’m hoping to cut down on cords out of the smoker.


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Jan 16, 2021)

If it's not being used for a smoke generator I would assume you could plug the fan in...   thinking it will be on all the time...  See what others say that have the actual unit ...


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 18, 2021)

Well, the heating element is on its way. 
I have to call Auber tomorrow, it says on their webpage they have to custom make a mounting tube for walls over 2.5 inches. Hope that doesn’t hurt to bad. 
 Speaking of hurting, plywood has went up $4 in one week here.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 18, 2021)

The floor, which will be insulated


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 18, 2021)

Floor and legs. 
There is a guy in Wisconsin named Ron who has an outdoor/hunting blog. Googling hunting I ran across his smoker build. I’m taking the basic design from him and adding a few of my own ideas. 
 So if you come across this Ron, thanks!!
 Hope you had a good hunting season!!!


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 18, 2021)

The plan is to clean up the bricks from a fireplace masonry kit and use this as the bottom section with the smoke tube.
I will insulate around it. Have to figure out how to frame around the back and sides of the brick also.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 19, 2021)

3 walls up.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 19, 2021)

Side partially up so I can make a control box housing.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 19, 2021)

A new found respect for you sheet metal guys and gals!!!
My first try at it. It’s not as easy as y’all make it look. 
I guess it’s like drywall, those that can do it make it look easy.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 19, 2021)

The floor and one side almost done insulating.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 19, 2021)

Any suggestions on stack placement?
It will have a circulation fan 17” up the left side with the temp probe in the top right per Auber Instruments.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 20, 2021)

The ceiling.. I put the aluminum on with the reverse  rivet method. It was a little aggravating with the 1/2 inch wood but I think it would be great with thicker wood.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 24, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> Any suggestions on stack placement?
> It will have a circulation fan 17” up the left side with the temp probe in the top right per Auber Instruments.



So, night shift has put this on pause a little but it’s gave me time to think a little too. 
If I had to put the stack somewhere today I’d put it in the middle of the right wall top. 
That would be opposite the fan. Does this sound good or am I over thinking it?


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 26, 2021)

PID and Fan came in Monday.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 27, 2021)

The tentative smoke stack.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 28, 2021)

Had to square off the angles on the firebrick.  
It was to much for my redneck math skills. 
 More room for insulation.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 28, 2021)

Went ahead and downloaded the AuberSmart app.
 I had to rename my 5 ghz signal on my router as the PID only uses 2.4.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Jan 31, 2021)

This metal is going to make me pull my hair out


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 1, 2021)

Top face done.
One  set of hangers with 3/8 aluminum rods.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 2, 2021)

Another set made.  
 I start back on nights tonight so it will have to wait to be installed.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 14, 2021)

Weather and work has set me back some.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 14, 2021)

Had to add on to the deck and add electricity for the Auber and the Treager. 
 Hope to get back to it after this cold front passes.


----------



## SmokinEdge (Feb 15, 2021)

Looking good.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 15, 2021)

Thanks Edge, I’m ready to get it done.


----------



## JLeonard (Feb 15, 2021)

Man thats looking sweet. 
Jim


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 15, 2021)

Thanks Jim. 
I put the insulation in the roof today but it’s to cold to be out for a Texan. 
 I hope to do a test on the heating element soon.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 15, 2021)

The plan is to drill a hole through a 2x2  and run the cord through it to hold it over the middle of the firebrick. 
I did plug in the element and it doesn’t get hot from the “plug” on the element to the stainless mounting clip. 
I will wrap the “ plug” and cord with the 2000 degree insulation and hold together with high temp tape. All will be ran through the 2x2. 
I will have to cut off the actual plug and reinstall after hiding the cord in the walls. 
 As always, I’m open to suggestions.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 16, 2021)

Got a little done today. 
Didn’t like scabbing under the hinges but had to. 
 Insulated the fire box too.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 16, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> ... hold it over the middle of the firebrick....


I'm a little late seeing this thread so I probably would have argued against the brick in the first place for a 1500W max heat source...it will just take too long to reach temp...but at least make sure you fashion a thin metal heat shield to go below between the element and the lower brick.  This is very effective at reflecting the infrared radiation from the hot element back up to your meat.  Two is better.  Shiny side up, adding black paint on the bottom sides helps.  

And you want to keep your smoker tube away from the element...a heat shield could help here too.  As Dave noted last month, close to a heat source and it can burst into flames and you lose your smoke.  If that were the only problem you could choke off some air flow around the tube and live with higher ambient heat.   But the real problem here is your controller is  switching your heat source between two extremes of fully on and fully off.  That's a nice feature of electrical heating in terms of getting precise temperature control but it raises Cain with a smoke tube that closely sees the temp swings.  

Lastly, I'll ask if your power is 15A or a 20A circuit.  A 1500W filament is pushing the limits of a 15A...if there's anything else on that circuit you'll likely have trouble.  If it's a 20A you have headroom and that's preferable.  20A should use 12AWG wiring and it looked like you might have that in the picture you posted.  Also it looked like you were recently pulling wire here so you may appreciate a 2nd circuit out here.  It's legal to bring out 220V 3-wire cabling (plus green ground) and split the phase between the upper and lower duplex plug, giving you two separate 120V circuits on your porch.  That would allow you to add a 2nd 1500w filament if you find it's just taking too long to get up to temp.  Note the 2nd element would only need to run during start-up so needn't be on your controller.   I'd suggest just a simple count-down timer for it, should you need it.  (or just wire it direct to a plug and remember to unplug and you get close to temp.)


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 16, 2021)

Thanks for the great info Bill.
The brick is held in with a few screws so it can come out if need be. To be honest I’m tired of building around it.
  The wire is 12 and the breaker is 20 amp.  I wish I’d known about the 2 different circuits. That would have been awesome and doable I think. I’ve already ran conduit all the way to my breaker box though.
It is 15 “ from my smoke tube to the element. Think that’s far enough? And the temp probe will be in the top right per Auber Ins. Hopefully this will be far enough that the smoke tube won’t confuse the PID. 
I will make a shield on your advice, thanks.
Don’t know what it will look like yet.


----------



## kbarnes12 (Feb 16, 2021)

That looks like a great build.

You are going to love the Auber controller,  You will have to set the relay action so that it is on for for each step of your cooking profile for smoke generator outlet to be able to run your fan.


----------



## SmokinEdge (Feb 16, 2021)

The brick will be a heat sink. For long smokes, and once you figure out the tune, it will be a nice asset.
I bricked the floor of my propane heated smoker. Takes a bit for the heat to balance, but once there is nice to have. This is a great build, more involved than most, but will be worth it in the end. You will love it.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 16, 2021)

kbarnes12 said:


> That looks like a great build.
> 
> You are going to love the Auber controller,  You will have to set the relay action so that it is on for for each step of your cooking profile for smoke generator outlet to be able to run your fan.


 Thanks kbarnes. It doesn’t show up on the app yet but I haven’t plugged the fan up. Hopefully it will show up when I do.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 16, 2021)

Thanks Edge. I have a time for each step when I smoke sausage. It will be nice to have it programmed and not use a stop watch. 
 May have to retuned like you said, I’m used to dealing with the temp swings and hope not to have as many.


----------



## kbarnes12 (Feb 17, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> Thanks kbarnes. It doesn’t show up on the app yet but I haven’t plugged the fan up. Hopefully it will show up when I do.


It is showing, its  where it says RelayAction:  Off.  I am attaching pictures of yours and mine that I have set to be on.  It is a bit complicated, but I would be glad to try to help you set it up when you get to that part if you want.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 17, 2021)

Ohhhhhhhh.   
I was looking in the cooking profile where you set the temp, time , food temp , etc.  
  I’ll check it out again.  
   I also can’t seem to get the app on my phone. Went on my iPad like a breeze!!!


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 17, 2021)

I was also planning to put the heating element in the center. Does it need to go there? It would be easier to go closer to the back wall.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 17, 2021)

The Blackstone and Firedisc on the new part of the deck. I could only paint half of the deck because of the weather.  Now to move the monstrosity and finish it in place.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 17, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> ...I wish I’d known about the 2 different circuits. That would have been awesome and doable I think. I’ve already ran conduit all the way to my breaker box though.
> It is 15 “ from my smoke tube to the element. Think that’s far enough? ...


1. Not sure where you're drawing your power from, but if from a panel or subpanel, and you have a spare circuit there that's the opposing phase of what you already have here, all you have to add is one more wire to that run.  Maybe the conduit run is long and  full of bends so this is too risky but maybe you could use one of the wires that's there to pull two new ones?  Or pull a string with the 3 you have and then use the string to pull 4?  
Unfortunately I see now in an earlier pic it's only 1/2" PVC conduit so you may be stuck with what you have.  Although filling tables _allow _you to put EIGHT 12awg wires in there.   

2. 15" spacing is fine.  And if it does tend to catch fire, just put a little metal wall (shield) between it and the element.  Unlike conductive or convective heat, radiant heat is line-of-sight only.  So if you put the tube in the "shadow" of the element, it can't "see" it.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 17, 2021)

Thanks again Bill.  Unfortunately I have (6) 90’s in the run. If it doesn’t work I will look into pulling another wire. I’d did look at the breaker after reading your post and I am using one “leg” of a double pole breaker spot. Sorry if I’m not using the correct terminology.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 17, 2021)

I was going to put the element here..... but....


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 17, 2021)

..... may put it here just below the first pic on the +


----------



## bill1 (Feb 18, 2021)

That little mounting plate/tab, where the two elements come back close to each other, is going to get hot.   You can't let it touch wood, let alone mount it on wood.  I'd say keep at least an inch spacing spacing from any wood, and even then the wood should have some steel sheeting on it to protect it.  

I like where you marked the X.  That looks like a 2x4?  I'd drill a 2-7/8 hole in it and push through a ~6" length of 2.5" EMT conduit.  Make it protrude at least 2" into that squarish hole.  Cut slots, ~.5" deep, on the inside of that EMT, at 11 o'clock, 1 o-clock, 5 & 7 o'clock.  Feed the cord through from the inside, then bend the resulting tabs you cut in the conduit, inward at 90degreees, so you can attach that heating element mounting tab to it with 2 sheet metal screws.  On the other (outside) end of the big conduit, keep the cord end centered by epoxying in some glass marbles or even just 3 appropriately-sized rocks.  Stuff the remaining open area with some pulled-apart steel wool that will keep hot air from escaping while not offering a major conductive heat path.  

And by all means, get some sheet steel (roof flashing is cheap) to mount ~1" under the element to reflect the IR from the lower half of the element UP into the cooking chamber.   As I said before, a shield under a shield is even more effective.  Look at the catalytic converter on your car to get the idea.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 18, 2021)

Sounds like a plan Bill. 
I may have trouble finding conduit that size but I’m on the hunt.
I did do a test this morning and the element did not get hot until after the two 90’s past the mounting tab. I sure time and radiant heat would get there. 
I held it until I needed to takes pics. Guess a 3rd hand would help!!


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 18, 2021)

Middle deck skinned. I hate sheet metal. You can tell by the wrinkles. 
Stainless mesh added to protect falling food. 
I have to take it apart to incorporate Bill’s idea for the heating element. 
 Also the door doesn’t close properly with the metal facing. I’ll have to mill down the front 2x4 and may do away with the aluminum there.  Getting a little frustrated here at the end.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 18, 2021)

Bottom door frame and register installed temporarily. It will be painted black.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 19, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> ...I may have trouble finding conduit that size but I’m on the hunt.
> I did do a test this morning and the element did not get hot until after the two 90’s past the mounting tab. I sure time and radiant heat would get there...


2" or 3" EMT conduit would work too.  I didn't really intend for you to have to buy a full 10' stick of it--just hoped you had some handy.  Round steel fence post (for chain link fence) would work too.  Any thin wall steel pipe >1.5" dia will do.  A 2" EMT coupler would work too.  But that's $3...didn't want you to have to pay that much.  
But if they've "unwound" the filament inside as it goes into the mounting tab, so it's not getting that hot, this is all overkill.  Try getting one of these for less than a buck: 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-4-in-Utility-Metal-Box-Cover-58C30-25R/202590843 
Cut it from a corner of the slot to a corner of an edge so you can temporarily bend it open and fit it around the element.  Mount the tab to this and route everything through a generous hole in the wood and you should be fine.  
Pics are looking good!


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

Works been crazy with the freeze so I’ve not been working on the smoker. There is a lot of reasons they build refineries on the gulf coast. #1 to me is that it doesn’t freeze often!!!
 Bill, I was late reading your last post but I took your shield idea and went with it. Our box store had a piece of stainless so I’ve mangled it into a pretty thick shield. 
 Once again thanks.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

A little heat protection.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

Should I leave this the size it is or trace around the element?


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

Cord out the back.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

Side ready for the PID, but not as ready as me.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 23, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> Should I leave this the size it is or trace around the element?


For a heat shield, the bigger the better.  Think of the element like a piece of water tubing with a million holes in it spraying water out all over.  That's what the infrared radiation is like.  The water shooting up is all good.  The water that shoots down and hits that shield will bounce back up at an equal angle like a ball bouncing off the ground.  The water that shoots down but at a steep angle so it misses the shield is wasted.  So I'd have been even happier if the shield was wider...but what you've got is great!!!


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

The lid and trim.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 23, 2021)

Cabinet probe installed. 
Recirculation fan shroud in its spot. It will have to come out tomorrow for a minute.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 24, 2021)

Had to redo a board. The cord for the fan wasn’t long enough. Poor planing on my part.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 24, 2021)

Done with the fan. This thing moves more air than I thought it would.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 24, 2021)

The PID shuts the fan on and off.
 Thanks for the help kbarnes12


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 24, 2021)

Took a break.
Taxidermist called and my Pronghorn is ready.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 24, 2021)

Both doors skinned. I have to cut out for the air vent. 
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Feb 24, 2021)

yup..  won't be long now..   looking good ...


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 25, 2021)

No backing down now.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 25, 2021)

I’m firing it up for a test. 
1st just the smoke tube and the fan.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 25, 2021)

1 hour with just the smoke tube and fan went up 12 degrees. Turned the setting to 100 degrees and was holding temp in 4 minutes and fanning the output of the element from 0 to about 25%


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 25, 2021)

It starts fanning the output very early. The green dotted line is the element output. That’s ok with me but you would think it would stay 100 % until it got close.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 25, 2021)

Moved set point to 250. I have to work in the morning.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 25, 2021)

While I was waiting


----------



## bill1 (Feb 26, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> Took a break.
> Taxidermist called and my Pronghorn is ready.


Love it!  Great pose.  But hope your mantle is strong enough to hold it?  My mantle is mounted off just 3 bricks that jut out from the masonry...wouldn't trust it to a considerable long-term static load and definitely not a seismic one.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 26, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> ...cord for the fan wasn’t long enough. Poor planning...


Been there, done that.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 26, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> While I was waiting


Your craftsmanship with the wood is really showing here.  Looks like a wood flute from one of the classic old European pipe organs.  Simply beautiful.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 26, 2021)

Thanks Bill.   Its been a lot of work but I hope to get lots of use out of it. 
The Pronghorn mount was surprisingly light. 
 I have one of those threaded latches that go through the brick and screws tight. I did miss with the first drilled hole. Hope the wife doesn’t look behind the mount!!!!


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 26, 2021)

I wonder how much heat escapes from the doors when you don’t have a seal around it? 
 I need to go put that on now.  It’s been a long day at work.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 27, 2021)

Seal on top door.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 27, 2021)

Anyone with a fan experience this?
 Seems excessive for the first smoke.


----------



## bill1 (Feb 28, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> Anyone with a fan experience this?
> Seems excessive for the first smoke.


I think most cookers that are designed to force a little more smoke flow around the food (for both flavor and heating/cooking efficiency) mount a bladed fan at the top.  But nothing _wrong _with squirrel-cage fan like this.  

I suspect the splatters are fat splatters...food drips are hitting the blades and getting thrown back like a spray.  (With time, the blades would get so coated the air movement would be compromised or the motor would have trouble starting.)  Cure would be to build a "roof" over the top of it.  A simple, solid sheet of steel, slated from the wall down to the center, would keep the drips off the fan below.  However it would also block or re-direct the air/smoke flow in a direction you may not like.  So you could put slots down the slant angle of the "roof" so the air/smoke can pass through.  Make the slots use up ~40% of the roof area.  But then 40% of the drips would still get through.  So build a 2nd "roof", just like the first, and spaced an inch above it, but shifted laterally so that any liquid that goes through a slot on the first hits the 2nd at a solid steel section and rolls off like most on the top roof.  Air/smoke, unlike liquids, will have no trouble following a slightly jogged path through the 2 staggered  roofs.  

OTOH, perhaps those splatters are what popularly gets  labeled as creosote here.  In other words, it's part of the smoke-producing  chemical process you've got going.  But I doubt it.  The color would be blacker in that case.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 28, 2021)

Bill, this was the first smoke. It was a dry run with no meat. It may be the creosote. I was using mesquite pellets if that matters. The good thing is that the fan blades pop right out. It should be easy to clean.


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Feb 28, 2021)

Now try a dry run with no fan... see if the pellets keep going and produce a smoker full  of smoke ....


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Feb 28, 2021)

I’ll give it a go tomorrow with the fan off JD,  but 2 dry runs is almost un-American. Next I’ll be reading instructions.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 1, 2021)

Trying to use up my extra lumber.
 I’m going to leave the one side open for the WiFi signal.


----------



## bill1 (Mar 2, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> Trying to use up my extra lumber.
> I’m going to leave the one side open for the WiFi signal.


Keep an eye on those Auburn electronics.  Not a lot of air flow there so you don't want that chassis getting hot.  
Wood is fairly transparent to wifi RF signals but I like the idea of keeping that lower shelf open just to keep the electronics cool.  And accessible.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 2, 2021)

Thanks bill1, it was raining yesterday as I was working on the shelf so I thought I’d box it in. I left the front open, the back has 2 vent holes and the face of it is hinged to get the PID out, so I can run with it open if I need to. Sounds like I probably will need to.
It’s all just finish work now. I hope.
I’m building another rack similar to the bottom one  now.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 2, 2021)

Jerky rack. 
Need some expanded metal now. 
 It never ends.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 3, 2021)

Cleaned that up a little.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 3, 2021)

JckDanls 07 said:


> Now try a dry run with no fan... see if the pellets keep going and produce a smoker full  of smoke ....


 JD.  It seems that small mesh and board frame is interfering with the smoke flow. Or am I over thinking it again?  
Sure wanted that stainless mesh for a jerky rack.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 6, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> JD.  It seems that small mesh and board frame is interfering with the smoke flow. Or am I over thinking it again?
> Sure wanted that stainless mesh for a jerky rack.


  This question didn’t quite come out right 
Sounds a little silly actually. 
 I ran the fan after a while and it wasn’t smoking as much. The frame for the rack is directly in the air flow on the back corner.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 6, 2021)

JckDanls 07 said:


> Now try a dry run with no fan... see if the pellets keep going and produce a smoker full  of smoke ....


JD, I ran it without the fan and it was smokin great and the temp shot straight up. Makes sense. The fan is pulling 43 degree air into the smoker.


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Mar 7, 2021)

Good deal...  so if it were me I would not use the fan..  As It also rushes the smoke past the food to fast and therefor not as much sticking to it... my opinion ...


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 7, 2021)

JckDanls 07 said:


> Good deal...  so if it were me I would not use the fan..  As It also rushes the smoke past the food to fast and therefor not as much sticking to it... my opinion ...


 I’m going to take your advice on the maiden smoke JD. 
 Smoke was also leaking around the door. So heat was getting out also. It still got up to 245.  I’ll have to double the door seal or get a different kind.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 7, 2021)

After 4 hours smoke + 1 hour without to get to temp.


----------



## bill1 (Mar 8, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> JD, I ran it without the fan and it was smokin great and the temp shot straight up. Makes sense. The fan is pulling 43 degree air into the smoker.


I don't think you want this.  Natural draft (hot air wants to rise) is the way most smokers like this work...slight suction at the intake, slight pressure at  the exhaust a couple feet higher than intake.  Sounds like your fan is increasing the suction at your intake and then forcing added air flow out your exhaust.  Most smokers like this use the fan just to make the natural airflow in the smoker take a little more circuitous route through the smoker so the smoke stays inside a little longer.  

What is the cfm (flow rate in cubic feet per minute, or some other volumetric rate I can convert from) for this fan.  I suspect it's way too high.  And its placement down low is not quite right either.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 8, 2021)

I can’t find anywhere that it list the cfm’s Bill.
It does even out the temp throughout the chamber just keeps it lower.
I had great flow without it but it was 50 degrees hotter at the bottom level. I wanted it more even for sausage so it will work for that. I’ll just have to keep it off if I want to go hotter.
 I’m now wondering if a rheostat would help here.


----------



## bill1 (Mar 9, 2021)

Maybe an adjustable inlet would be a good idea?    You throttle off the air inlet to your smoker when you're running the "mixing fan".  I'm trying to picture the bottom of your unit...could a $1.49 round pizza pan plate from Walmart work with a single screw, at maximum radius, so it can be swung over your square opening on the bottom?  It shouldn't get that hot, but if it does you can mount a wooden knob towards the front, at ~90deg from where the axel screw is, so you have something to grab and swing with.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 11, 2021)

Something like that may work Bill. I just need a day off to do it. 
 Work is still crazy.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 15, 2021)

Trim wasn’t strong enough to hold the latches so I had to go with some of the 1 x’s   
  Tomorrow is sausage day. Should be about 80 lbs.  
 24 lbs andouille and pepper jack. The rest will be between old fashioned smoke and a new one for me, salt and pepper.  
 We shall see.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 16, 2021)

61 lbs in the smoker. Need more rods to hang more.


----------



## JckDanls 07 (Mar 16, 2021)

texbowhunter316 said:


> 61 lbs in the smoker. Need more rods to hang more.




NICE


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 16, 2021)

27.5 Andouille and pepper jack
12.5 salt and pepper
21 Cajun with cheddar

 Before and after.


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 16, 2021)

The andouille


----------



## texbowhunter316 (Mar 16, 2021)

This will be a work in progress for a while but I would like to thank everyone who helped me with input.  
 JD 
 Smokinedge
 kbarnes
 And Bill,  your advice is greatly appreciated and I took it every time I could. Sometimes your ideas would spur me on to something similar but with things more available to me. 
  Thanks guys!!!!


----------

