New smoker mods -- Pics Included

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bigjoesimpson

Newbie
Original poster
Feb 17, 2013
16
11
Eastern Shore, Maryland
Today was smoker assembly day.  I picked up my new Master Forge 36" Vertical smoker on closeout at Lowes earlier this week, and spent several days doing some research on mods.  The supplies I picked up included:
  • Stainless steel fasteners (screws in two lengths, washers, lock washers, nuts, small eye bolts)
  • High-temp metal duct tape (used to help seal the door...no pics of that)
  • steel rod
  • aluminum paint mask
I was going to get sheet aluminum, but the paint mask was a lot cheaper.  At approx 6" x 36" it yields plenty of raw material.


I cut a rectangular piece to use as a damper for the bottom hole. It's attached by one screw so it can pivot over the hold.  The damper is controlled by a piece of steel rod held in place by two eye bolts:



To regulate the airflow on top, I drilled a cluster of 1/4" holes, and fashioned a pivoting damper.  It too is held in place by a single screw.





I added this thermometer right at the lower rack to keep an eye on temps there, and to compare vs. the stock thermometer on the lid.


I added these three long screws to the firebox.  I bought a Weber 7440 grate, which will sit on the screws and allow for better airflow on the coals.


Here's the completed smoker, showing the thermometer, top damper, and lower control rod.


And here's the test-burn tonight.  The top damper is closed, and all the smoke is coming from around the lid.  I purchased the fireplace rope and will install it tomorrow.


Apologies for the two sideways pics, but you get the idea. 
 
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Okay, so after several hours of test-burn, I'm running a little hot.  About 300-325, with bottom damper just about closed up.  Any suggestions for pulling this down into mid-200s?  Will the insulating rope around the lid help with that (limiting air-flow)?

Thanks for any suggestions & feedback!

-Joe
 
Google brinkman gourmet smoker mods shows how to put dampers on bottom n top same smoker u need a 3/4 to 1" metal hole saw ur need 3 dampers on bottom as the brinkman mods shows n close off the bottom hole
 
Hey Big Joe,  I have the same one and a electric model.  On my electric the lid sits down on the smoker body and seals OK but the charcoal one the rack mounts are to high and the top sits on them stopping the lid from sealing.  I plan to re-drill and lower the top rack mounts a 1/2" so the top will fit.  I also can't keep the temps down but I have not added the damper on the bottom yet.  Are you using water in the pan or sand?

Stan
 
Hi Stan,

Good call on the top rack mount, I just checked and my lid contacts those before the lip of the lid hits the body.  I'll drop the rack mounts and cover the original holes with metal tape.  I used hot (nearly boiling) water in the pan on my test burn.  I think I'll start with room temp water.  I also think that adding meat will have an effect as well. 
 
Morning Joe,   Have you got the racks for the charcoal yet.  I have a cheaper way.  At Lowe's they sell a sheet of expanded metal that is real thin and $5.00 a sheet.

I have made many things out of this and it wont melt or hasn't yet.  I can hold a torch to it and it just glows.





It comes like 3'x6'  you can cut it with snips and it easy to bend.  I just cut it big and bent the edge over and down then slip it in.  Worked great.

In my test cook I used sand and was thinking that water would help hold the temps down..  Just have to keep plugging along till I get this figured out.

Stan
 
Okay, so after several hours of test-burn, I'm running a little hot.  About 300-325, with bottom damper just about closed up.  Any suggestions for pulling this down into mid-200s?  Will the insulating rope around the lid help with that (limiting air-flow)?

Thanks for any suggestions & feedback!

-Joe
Joe, morning.....  Are you familiar with the minion method for briquettes ??  Place about 90% of the briquettes in the smoker unlit... add the rest lit ...  white ash covering them...  hot briquettes...  then the air inlet will adjust how fast the others heat up controlling the heat... 

Dave
 
Stan: Yes, I already have one of the Weber 7440 grates to use as a charcoal rack.  I like your idea though, and will use that material if I need to build the charcoal basket up any higher for increased volume.

Dave: I've read up on minion, and will try that when I fire it up this weekend.  I imagine if I keep the bottom air inlet nearly closed, that will help to keep the temp down...sound right?  Will an additional adjustable damper on the top help keep temps down too.  I can see how it would let heat out, but it would it draw more air in the bottom to feed the fire & increase temps?

Another idea I have if high temps continue to be an issue:  Insert three long screws between the water bowl & lower rack, and use them to support a pizza stone.  Think it would work?

Joe
 
Joe, a heat diffuser like a perforated pizza pan helps....  the top vent is usually kept open to allow for air/heat/smoke flow and moisture to escape, and heat is controlled  using the bottom vent....  having an air tight sealed smoker is pretty much a necessity for heat control...  the minion method controls the number of briquettes burning to control the temp.... Lighting too many at the start of the smoking cycle, it is difficult to get low temps....   Dave
 
I think that might have been a problem for me on the test burn.  I started with nearly a full Weber chimney of hot coals.  I'll be working on the air-tight seal of the lid to the body this week.  I have to lower the top grate supports as mentioned above (only about 1/4"), and maybe add some fireplace rope around the lip of the lid.  
 
The lid area should not be too much of a problem...   be sure the body is sealed near the charcoal basket for step one...  then advance to other areas...  that may solve the problem.... 
 

I have this smoker. At first, I did not do any mods and the temps were right in the 250-275 range. It worked pretty well right out of the box.

All I did was add a top and bottom damper, Weber style ones.

And I put a coal grate in the pan

turns out i did not need the dampers, I did not do anything to the door or seal the lid, I thought I would need to but did not

Also I bought an Auber ATC for it, it works great and I can smoke anywhere between 150f for sausages to 275 for chicken. After I installed that I covered up the hole in the bottom with foil tape 

I highly recommend one.

here is a pic
 
Last edited:

I have this smoker. At first, I did not do any mods and the temps were right in the 250-275 range. It worked pretty well right out of the box.

All I did was add a top and bottom damper, Weber style ones.

And I put a coal grate in the pan

turns out i did not need the dampers, I did not do anything to the door or seal the lid, I thought I would need to but did not

Also I bought an Auber ATC for it, it works great and I can smoke anywhere between 150f for sausages to 275 for chicken. After I installed that I covered up the hole in the bottom with foil tape 

I highly recommend one.

here is a pic
ButtBurner do you have any pics of the Auber ATC mod.  How did you connect it to the smoker?  I was thinking that I would have to run a duct to the hole in the bottom that you covered up with tape in order to get a even burn. 

Stan
 
Stan-

Its in the pic.

Look under the door, you will see it (its black) in the bottom ring.

All I did was punch a 1.25" hole in the base.

And I also punched 4 more of the same holes in the sidewall of the ash pan, for a little more air flow. I dont know if that was needed or not, but it works great!

Any other questions I would be glad to help!!

thanks!!!
 
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