New Smoke house builder

bj16, morning... Great plan..

I have found exhaust and inlet air holes for electric smokers the size you are describing, work best as perimeter venting.. using 3/4" to 1" holes.... Single inlet and exhaust have proven to be a nuisance in my MES 30... Making for a gradient of hot and cold sections in the smoker... I have spent a fair amount of time, and prototype modifications, to get a somewhat uniform distribution of heat and smoke...
May I suggest a mailbox with 3" rigid aluminum dryer pipe, thru the wall, to a 90 deg. elbow in the center of the smokehouse.. 3-- 1" holes in the MB door for air supply... as in the picture...
For the exhaust holes.. something like 6" lengths of 1" galv. steel nipples through the walls so they can be capped off... They should be installed approx. 6" below the eaves in an even distribution around the smokehouse... for even exhaust.. and I would install 8 of the nipples... Plugging 2, on the windward side of the smoker would leave 6 operating exhaust ports.. that's about right... similar thing around the bottom of the walls, except maybe 4 inlets...

I have nothing to say but awesome words for the Mailbox mod, the AMNPS, and Todd's pellets... Pops and Todd have brought the smoking meats thing to new heights... Pops, by the way, invented the "attached mailbox" to provide a place for the AMNPS... Todd, invented the perforated SS holder for pellets and dust... AND last but not least, Tulsa Jeff started this awesome forum...

Dave

Dave,
Is something like this what you recommend? I appreciate the response![/QUOTE]

Yep... Only the pipe nipples shouldn't stick out like that... With 2x4 walls and sheeting, the nipples should only protrude about an inch or so on each side of the wall...
The smokehouse height, will act as a chimney and create draft... you will have air entering the MB and lower inlets, and exiting the exhaust nipples near the eaves.... With the smoke entering the smokehouse, from the upturned 90 deg. elbow, in the center of the footprint of the smokehouse, it should get distributed very evenly.. anyway, that's what it says in fine print....

The MB should be on the outside of the smokehouse as it creates heat from using pellets... and the inlets to the MB should be similar to this.. The longer the inlet 3" duct, between the smoke house and MB, it will condense creosote and make for a sweeter smoke...

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Insulate and a liner is fine... Cement holds moisture, when the smoker is not in use, and can take considerable amount of time and heat to dry it out... real plywood works as long as it's not treated.. use exterior grade ... WOCA is a food grade sealant that can be used on the plywood..... ... or sheet metal.. coated with Flax Seed oil and it can be used on wood also... It creates a very hard surface when heated and dried... 18 gauge cold rolled and coat with oil like you would cast iron.. lowering the heating element my be a good idea to leave more room for hanging meat... I would use a piece of steel below the element, with an air gap between the element and the floor... lower the air inlets to the level of the element so the incoming air helps to move the heat around... The smoke can enter above the element..
The upper air inlet to the MB I find is necessary to help clean up the smoke and cool it so creosotes condense on the walls of the pipe and MB....

..Legs help with air flow to the pellets.. Creosote build up inside the MB...
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