New - Oklahoma Joe's Highland Smoker

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I found, on my old smoker, that the visible RTV that was "exposed" to the fire and flame inside the firebox appeared to be charred and degraded, while the stuff that had been encapsulated between the firebox and cooking chamber was still viable and providing a seal. 

The heat ratings on RTV seems to refer to "exposure".  I'm not sure if the actual metal is getting beyond 600F?   I'll use my heat therm gun next time and try to determine the actual temperature.

NSF certifcation for food safety of RTV seems to speak to "in contact with food".  I have wondered about that, as well, given that food would never contact the sealant in this application?

(disclaimer: I am NOT advocating using anything other than Food Safe RTV) .. just have wondered about it.
 
Even the food safe stuff I had melted and put chemical smell into some of my food. I had to throw it out. It was a completley full chimney of kingsford in the weber chimney
 
 
The problem is the RTV's above 650 are NOT food safe.
i used rtv 500 foodsafe for sealing the FB and CC together, it did smell bad after the first couple of cooks (like toxic), but smell has gone away and it partially melted, but now is holding up

i kind of agree with what has been said that it's more important to start cooking with the thing, then mod it

i don't really know what the benefit of all the mods are since i don't have a reference point (unmodded) to start with

one could say that sealing things up makes the thing work worse. since i definitely don't get enough airflow through to the firebox, so sealing it up seems counterproductive. the same can probably be said for the cooking chamber, since if it is sealed up too well, then not enough air will be drawn through the smoke stack. that is of course me speculating

the only thing i will be able to see the difference in will be the convection plate, if i ever get it from horizon... that and the 4" personal fan i plan on using to blow some air into the FB
 
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Here is the thing....just like any smoker, the more you use it, the more the gaps will fill up on their own with carbon. When I had this smoker, I spent 30 dollars and paid someone to seal it up via welding. It was the best thing ever. But I also knew that if I did not do that, I would have left it alone and the carbon would have built up on its own over time anyway. If you are going to seal anything, It's the doors. Focus on that and then stop modding and just cook. Much of this modding is moot for me due to the time people are spending. I calculate my free time as higher value than my job. So I factor in my cost. say 88 dollars an hour. If I go over 6 hours on a single unit tweaking and modding, I need to get a more expensive unit plain and simple. Which is what I did...I sold the OKJ Highlander and used that same money to buy out my friend on an original unit we both went in on 21 years ago.  
 
I modded my OKJ Highland based upon my experiences with 2 other smokers.  I agree, also, it is important to cook on it, then mod based upon your experiences.   As mentioned above, if someone has an airflow problem, then chase that issue to find out why and what needs to be done to remedy the issue. 

I have owned and used wood stoves in my homes for many years.  I found that running a smoker is similar, and some of the issues and problems are similar.  Sometimes the issues and fixes are very simple, but sometimes they can be perplexing. The only time my OKJ had an airflow issue was recently,  due to an easterly breeze, the firebox was oriented 180 degrees away from the prevailing wind.

1/3rd of the way through the session I turned the Smoker around and it started running like a well tuned machine.

I suggest trying "easy" and temporary mods first, to prove out any theories, then make a permanent mod once you are confident you have found the problem and it's correction.  You can do a lot of "figuring" with aluminum foil or a disposable aluminum baking pan to fabricate a temporary baffle, or seal a hole temporarily, then see how that affects your heat and airflow.  Seeing is believing.
 
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i used rtv 500 foodsafe for sealing the FB and CC together, it did smell bad after the first couple of cooks (like toxic), but smell has gone away and it partially melted, but now is holding up

i kind of agree with what has been said that it's more important to start cooking with the thing, then mod it

i don't really know what the benefit of all the mods are since i don't have a reference point (unmodded) to start with

one could say that sealing things up makes the thing work worse. since i definitely don't get enough airflow through to the firebox, so sealing it up seems counterproductive. the same can probably be said for the cooking chamber, since if it is sealed up too well, then not enough air will be drawn through the smoke stack. that is of course me speculating

the only thing i will be able to see the difference in will be the convection plate, if i ever get it from horizon... that and the 4" personal fan i plan on using to blow some air into the FB
Sealing things up doesn't necessarily make things worse.  I have now "sealed up" 3 smokers over the past 20 years, each one performed better after sealing them up.  The idea is to get the heat where you need it, across your cooking grates, not have it leak out before it does it's job.

If you seal up the cooking chamber, you may, in fact increase the amount of smoke going through the stack, not decrease it.  Leaks, or leaks in the right place on the cooking chamber can slow the velocity of the air across your cooking grate, because it is escaping somewhere else.

When i sealed the cooking chamber on the OKJ, I increased the overall velocity of the smoke going out the top of the stack, which in turn, increased the air being sucked into the firebox from the outside atmosphere.  At the same exact firebox damper adjustment, I have a hotter smoker.  That was my proof. 

My best analogy is when the cooking chamber leaks, leaks enough, and/or leaks in the right places it is akin to shortening your stack length.

Exhaust gasses escape before reaching your actual stack, and air flow (velocity) is actually decreased. A shorter stack can be detrimental to your burn, just like a shorter chimney can affect a wood stove draft. 

It is an easy experiment:  fold some aluminum foil to make a temporary seal and place it anywhere you see smoke escaping around the entire cooking chamber, door, sealing area, and where the stack joins the cooking chamber.  Monitor the performance to see if this helps your flow, heat, and draw. 

Just my 2 cents on sealing the less expensive smokers out there.

Ozsmoker, I just re-read your post, it sounds like you already sealed it.  Ok, gotcha.  Other things to check are your fuel source, charcoal with moisture in it,  or wood that is not completely dry can be culprits.  Prevailing wind is another factor.   Placement too, I had my last smoker at the corner of my workshop for a while, and even on days with little or no wind i had some issues.  I moved it 20 feet away from the building and my air/draft issues disappeared.  Buildings can have an affect even on a day with extremely light winds.   Then there is the whole stack length issue...but before we go there, another thing can be if the smoker is in a low lying area.  Or in a humid, rainy climate.  Low barometric pressures also cause problems, at times.

  I guess my best suggestion at the moment, easiest to do, would be,  try moving your smoker to another location, even 25 feet away and see if it still has an air problem.  If possible a place that has a higher elevation, even a foot or two can make a difference.

Better than trying a bunch of mods first without finding the cause.  Best of Luck!
 
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What you say is true my friend. The convection process must be started for quality smoke to move through the unit. 
 
 
What you say is true my friend. The convection process must be started for quality smoke to move through the unit. 
Thanks, I will also add, when reading about people experiencing an overly smokey or acrid taste, (beyond a fuel quality issue) I think it might be caused by poor airflow, and the smoke is stagnating in the cooking box, rather than moving along and out of the stack. 

This usually leaves the user thinking they have a fire or heat problem.  I think Ozsmoker is on the right path looking at his airflow, it's just a matter of diagnosing why it's not reaching that proper performance point.  By rights, using good fuel with draft opened up his smoker should fire-up and flow.

Step 1; Use quality fuel

Step 2; Start with a HOT fire

Step 3; don't throttle it back until it's plenty warmed up

I hope I'm not derailing this thread.
 
Air flow is an issue on this unit though.....the top vent is no longer part of the unit. It became a victim of cheaper shipping costs. Making the firebox a two piece unit allowed them to smash the parts inside of the cook chamber for a smaller shipping size. That top vent on my original not only helps keep the fire burning but it actually helps move the air through the unit. I would strongly consider adding an air vent to the top half. You can order a Weber vent cover online for like 8 dollars. Drill 4 holes, attach and you are done. 
 
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Air flow is an issue on this unit though.....the top vent is no longer part of the unit. It became a victim of cheaper shipping costs. Making the firebox a two piece unit allowed them to smash the parts inside of the cook chamber for a smaller shipping size. That top vent on my original not only helps keep the fire burning but it actually helps move the air through the unit. I would strongly consider adding an air vent to the top half. You can order a Weber vent cover online for like 8 dollars. Drill 4 holes, attach and you are done. 
Interesting. Mine is one of the newer ones with no top vent.  

After doing my mods: homemade SS convection plate/baffle, lowering the stack inlet inside of cooking chamber,  and sealing,  I seem to have a nice air flow and stable heat across my grates.

I will make an educated guess and say that people have benefited from the baffle between the FB and CC, not only in a more balanced Left to Right CC heat,

but also, the baffle may be creating a venturi effect which is increasing air velocity?

Just a guess on my part.

Are there any pictures of the older models with the top air inlet?
 
Interesting. Mine is one of the newer ones with no top vent.  

After doing my mods: homemade SS convection plate/baffle, lowering the stack inlet inside of cooking chamber,  and sealing,  I seem to have a nice air flow and stable heat across my grates.

I will make an educated guess and say that people have benefited from the baffle between the FB and CC, not only in a more balanced Left to Right CC heat,

but also, the baffle may be creating a venturi effect which is increasing air velocity?

Just a guess on my part.

Are there any pictures of the older models with the top air inlet?

FYI  not sure what' up with forum saying my post was deleted?  apologies if i double responded.
 
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I did mine wen it was new and making some other mods that made disassembly necessary anyway, so that's how I did it. However I have to say I'm not sure how much it was worth. The temp between the firebox and cook chamber gets hot enough to burn out the RTV anyway, plus it was a pretty tight fit to begin with. Frankly I think we spend way to much time, talk and money on sealing up the smoker. Except for the firebox to control the air flow and temperature I really don't see the benefit of sealing up the cook chamber in the final product. I've had some great Q from some funny looking cookers, even a 55 gal drum. Of course you don't want smoke leaking out all over the place but trying to seal every tiny leak in the cook chamber isn't critical to the outcome. The OKJ is pretty good just the way it comes. I'm sure some others will disagree but the proof is in the food.
grilling_smilie.gif

Tony
I did one cook on it without any mods and it turned out okay other than the temp being off in the cooking chamber from one end to another by about 25 degrees. The thing is I already bought the RTV so I may as well use it!
 
 
Jon,

  I think the higher quality way to your RTV job is, to disassemble, then RTV between the firebox and cooking chamber.  Make sure to use High Temp RTV,  there are several flavors that will say "High" but read the fine print for the higher temperature stuff.  You will see pics, I think even early in this thread, showing how they apply the RTV around the perimeter and around each bolt hole.  You can also place a bead on the outside, on top, where the two assemblies meet to prevent any moisture from weeping down into that crack.

I assembled mine brand new, then less than a week later dropped the firebox and RTV'd it.  Wish I had done it during first assembly, but, glad I took the extra time to disassemble. 

I don't regret it a bit.  Good luck!
The RTV I bought is good for 500 (up to 600 in spurts and it said it was food safe). I was afraid you were going to say disassemble it! Haha 

Thank you for the tips. 

-Jon
 
Look at it this way,  its only 6 bolts? or 8?    Hint:  make a small table, like with cinder blocks or something,

directly under the firebox, unbolt, and set it down just a few inches on your makeshift table.

Move it away just enough to apply the RTV around the opening, and around each bolt hole, then bolt it back up.

Won't take as much time and effort as you may think.

The longer you let it cure before firing it, the better.  if they say 24 hours for full cure, make it 48 or 72, then do a firing (without food!)

In fact, for the first part of the firing leave the Firebox and Cook chamber lids open, in case there is any RTV out gassing. 

Mine did not have any smell after curing or during first firing.

Mine also had a wide temperature variance from Left to Right.  I built a SS convection plate and baffle,  it's now very well balanced. 

In fact, I had both sides sit right at 250 for a good 30 minutes straight, it's that close now.

Good luck!
 
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I did one cook on it without any mods and it turned out okay other than the temp being off in the cooking chamber from one end to another by about 25 degrees. The thing is I already bought the RTV so I may as well use it!
Yeah, for sure it's not going to hurt anything.  It just may not help anything.  That temp differential can be addressed by a deflector plate, or like I did with a series of deflectors placed along the bottom grates.  That deflection along with good air flow control to control the temps are probably the key mods to cooking some good Q.  
 
 
 That temp differential can be addressed by a deflector plate, or like I did with a series of deflectors placed along the bottom grates.  That deflection along with good air flow control to control the temps are probably the key mods to cooking some good Q.  
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Yeah, for sure it's not going to hurt anything.  It just may not help anything.  That temp differential can be addressed by a deflector plate, or like I did with a series of deflectors placed along the bottom grates.  That deflection along with good air flow control to control the temps are probably the key mods to cooking some good Q.  
Thanks so much to you and SkunkWerX for your help. One last question, what did you use for the deflector plate? I was looking at different mods and I see that there is a pre-made tuning plate you can get from bbqsmokermods.com, but I don't want to pay the $90 bucks they are asking for it. Keep in mind that I can be a DIYer, but I have no prior experience in welding or metal work.

Here is the tuner plate I am talking about.

http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ok-hor-tune-hl.htm
 
 
Thanks so much to you and SkunkWerX for your help. One last question, what did you use for the deflector plate? I was looking at different mods and I see that there is a pre-made tuning plate you can get from bbqsmokermods.com, but I don't want to pay the $90 bucks they are asking for it. Keep in mind that I can be a DIYer, but I have no prior experience in welding or metal work.

Here is the tuner plate I am talking about.

http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ok-hor-tune-hl.htm


This is what I use.  Like you, I didn't want to pay a bunch of money for a plate with holes in it.  And I didn't really want to sit down and cut all those holes.  This is way is cheap and it works.  And it's totally adjustable.  You can space the plates any way you want to achieve the heat deflection.  These plate are available right off the shelf at Home Depot, no cutting or drilling.  I'm thinking they were around $15.  I'm sure the plate is really nice and professional looking, but like I always say, it's not about the looks, it's about the taste.  

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This is what I use.  Like you, I didn't want to pay a bunch of money for a plate with holes in it.  And I didn't really want to sit down and cut all those holes.  This is way is cheap and it works.  And it's totally adjustable.  You can space the plates any way you want to achieve the heat deflection.  These plate are available right off the shelf at Home Depot, no cutting or drilling.  I'm thinking they were around $15.  I'm sure the plate is really nice and professional looking, but like I always say, it's not about the looks, it's about the taste.  

drool.gif
 
Indeed, thanks again for all of the great information!
 
 
Interesting. Mine is one of the newer ones with no top vent.  

After doing my mods: homemade SS convection plate/baffle, lowering the stack inlet inside of cooking chamber,  and sealing,  I seem to have a nice air flow and stable heat across my grates.

I will make an educated guess and say that people have benefited from the baffle between the FB and CC, not only in a more balanced Left to Right CC heat,

but also, the baffle may be creating a venturi effect which is increasing air velocity?

Just a guess on my part.

Are there any pictures of the older models with the top air inlet?
It's all one piece on the older vents.Like this one in the picture.

 
 
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