My first attempt at a build.

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12ring

Meat Mopper
Original poster
Jun 20, 2013
160
39
New Mexico
I am starting out with a 40" long 19" diameter 3/8" thick CC. FB is 19" diameter 18" long a littler over 3/8" thick. 4" diameter stack that's 20" above the top of my CC. Kam59 has been helpful running my numbers and they are sufficient for air flow.

I used a 4.5" grinder with a cut off wheel to flush up the end of the pipe. It took 1 wheel to get through the entire circle.


Hers my plans so far. There's 3 options for the FB door. They're basically the same except for the bottom design. I might lower the door of the cook chamber 1" as well. Casters will go on the fire box side. I may add another support under the fire box if I think it's necessary.

It's me and a buddy building it. He knows how to weld but I am limited on tools. It will bebuilt in my garage a little bit at a time.

I had asked questions in other threads but I will ask all questions going forward in this thread. If you guys see me doing something wrong, feel free to point it out.
 
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For the exhaust build a plenum with a 45° turn up and put your exhaust on it you can mount it up high or at grate level. I prefer as high as I can get them.
 
My original plan was to build a plenum but the guy helping me said it was a bunch of extra cuts and welding for no reason really. I switched the plan to this after he said that. is there a benifit to having the plenum?
 
I feel they actually help with the way the cooker draws if you have to make a transition other than straight out the top. Not knocking your buddy but if it is your cooker put on it what you want. ;)
 
What is a good width and thickness for the flange? For the CC and the FB. At least I think it's called a flange. I'm talking about the piece that's welded to the door to cover the door seem.
1 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick? 3/16 thick?

Would 3/16" thick metal be sufficient for the plenum? I'll be using a 4" inside diameter pipe extending about 20" above the CC.
 
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So I may have an issue with my fire box. I was told that the pipe I got for my fire was not galvanized and not zinc. My buddy went to cut it to the right size and said it is definetly zinc coated and it's thick.

I can have it steel shot blasted (sand blasted) down to bare metal for free but I don't know if that is ok or If I should scrap it all together. Can someone shed some light on this subject for me?

If after it is sand blasted and it's totally fine, I will continue on with it as my fire box. If there is any chance at all that it's not a good idea, I will purchase some 1/4" and build a square fire box. He did tell me that they sand blast the water tanks the same way and he thinks it will be fine.

Here's a picture of it. Thanks for the help.

 
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It appears to be painted and not hot dipped galvanized. If the inside is bare steel you're ok as far as safety just have the outside blasted.
 
The inside is bare metal. He said he can blast the inside as well though. I figured I might as well have him do it. The CC is rusted so should I have him blast that while he is at it?
 
You mention to me through PM that I needed to offset my hinges a little bit or it will hand when the door is open. I plan to cut my door at 12 and 1" below 3. That means I would need to put the pivot point of the hinges closer to the 11 o'clock side of the top of the door right? How far? 1-2"?

I figured I would ask this here in case it can help someone else down the road on their build.
 
Here is a pic of my hinges. Notice the pivot point is above the edge of the door strap. If I had moved towards the left or 11:00 the strap would hit the chamber as the door raises.
 
Thanks for the picture Kam. Question about cutting the CC door now. I was going to cut it with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel but have been second guessing it because it took me 45 minutes to cut the end off the pipe. The door will be about twice as much area.

My buddy said he will cut it with a torch (turned down low for a fine line) but I have read that it can cause the pipe to warp. My buddy said he'll leave a inch or two uncut here and there and that should keep it from warping. What's your thoughts on cutting the CC door with the wheel or torch? If it's better to use the wheel I will regardless of how long it will take.
 
If the pipe or tank is 3/16" or over I am using my torch I use a victor 0-1-101. Leaving 1" at the top, bottom, and corners until it cools will help but again if she is going to move it will happen I just deal with it later on.
 
What should i build my cooking grate out of? I was thinking 1" L bar 1/8" thick for the rectangle. And it will slide in and out along the same size L bar. What gauge of expanded metal should I use? If there's a better choice, let me know Thanks.
 
On cooking grates 24" x 24" and larger I prefer 1" x 1" x 1/4" angle iron. I will use 1" x 1" x 1/8" on smaller grates if I have to buy material but prefer the heavier if I have it on hand. the larger grates get a 1/2" hot roll underneath as a brace.

For grate material I use 3/4" x #9 flat expanded metal.

 
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