Pit Barrel Cooker Question

[radioguy]

If you do go the UDS route, try to avoid some "food safe" drums. Some of those have a Plastic coating inside that is pain to get removed. You have to burn, scrape, maybe burn again.

RG

 

[burgerbob]

If you do go the UDS route, try to avoid some "food safe" drums. Some of those have a Plastic coating inside that is pain to get removed. You have to burn, scrape, maybe burn again.

RG

I mentioned "food safe" in my previous statement so that he wasn't using just any used barrel that could have held some sort of chemical previously. As long as he is buying brand new, and it sounds like he is, then this shouldn't be a problem and you can get them specifically without the liner. 

I will mention something about the burning process.  I have found that it is easier to burn the outside with a propane weed burner which it turn will burn off the inside.  I have a weed burner and they can be a little bit expensive but if you know anyone that already has one, then I would highly suggest borrowing it.  If you don't know what a weed burner is, I included a link to the one I have.

http://flameengineering.com/

 

[dirtsailor2003]

 
Thanks for the parts list.  This helps.  Yeah, I supposed that gate valves would work just as well for this application.  I like the adjustable shelf idea.  Did you buy some kind of brackets to go with the shelf rails?

Yes the gate valves work great. I got the idea for using the shelf brackets from a post here. The original poster used the supports that come with them, but he cut them to be only a few inches long. I wanted a bit more control so I cut a notch into the brackets. Then I welded 2 rods 90° to each to the bottom of grate. My grate then twists into the notches for support. Allows me to adjust my grate in 1" increments up or down from top to the top of the charcoal basket.

 

[ammaturesmoker]

I am not a fan of hanging meat....even ribs you would thing would be uneven cooking because the bottom would be closer to the heat source. not to mention dropping in wood and coal chunks between the meat is not for me either for method. But my friend has one and flavor is just as good as an offset smoker.

 

[smokey tex]

Have any of you been able to find a domed lid for your UDS? 

 

[burgerbob]

Have any of you been able to find a domed lid for your UDS? 

I used the lid from a Weber 22" charcoal grill. Fits nearly perfect on a 55 gallon drum. I bought one from Craigslist for $20. I used the charcoal grate from it too for my charcoal basket.

 

[smokey tex]

 
Had I not sand blasted and powder coated my UDS, or made the adjustable shelf system I would have been under $100 for the UDS.

Drum (2) for $25 - $12.50

(3) gate valves (not ball valves) $5 ea. - $15

(3) black pipe nipples $2 ea - $6

(3) shelf rails  $8 ea - $24

(1) cooking grate - $15

misc nuts and bolts - $15

$87.50

charcoal basket

nuts an bolts for legs - $5

pizza pan for ash catcher - $10

Expanded metal - $20

$35

Total $122.50

Drum sand blast inside and out $25

Powder coat exterior $50

Total $75

Total UDS $197.50

What size black pipe nipples did you use?  I'm guessing it wouldn't have to be very long at all.  Maybe the 1 1/2"?

 

[rabbithutch]

@Case:

Is that pricing for blasting and powder coating regular commercial rates where you are or did you cut a good deal?

I haven't found anyone here in central TX (about 120 mi. S of Smokey Tex) who offers prices that low.

 

[dirtsailor2003]

What size black pipe nipples did you use?  I'm guessing it wouldn't have to be very long at all.  Maybe the 1 1/2"?

I did use the 1 1/2" nipples. If I had to do it again I'd go with 2". The handles on my valves make it a bit of a knuckle rub. The other option would be to use a irrigation shot off rod, then you wouldn't have to bend over!

 

[dirtsailor2003]

@Case:

Is that pricing for blasting and powder coating regular commercial rates where you are or did you cut a good deal?

I haven't found anyone here in central TX (about 120 mi. S of Smokey Tex) who offers prices that low.

Yep that's the normal price here for small projects.

 

[rabbithutch]

Yep that's the normal price here for small projects.

Just to be sure I understand you correctly, you paid $25 to have a 55 gal drum sand blasted inside and out; and $50 to have the outside of said drum - including lid - powder coated?

I've been quoted amounts more than twice that here. Of course, I live in fairly small city that might not have enough competition in this line of business, too.

 

[dirtsailor2003]

Just to be sure I understand you correctly, you paid $25 to have a 55 gal drum sand blasted inside and out; and $50 to have the outside of said drum - including lid - powder coated?

I've been quoted amounts more than twice that here. Of course, I live in fairly small city that might not have enough competition in this line of business, too.

$25 to blast, inside and out, including lid. $50 to powder coat exterior of drum and lid.

I live in a town of 80,000 and we have 3 powder coat shops.

All prices about the same at the three shops. Larger stuff costs more. I had them blast my discada and it was $35. Small welded art I do usually is $25-40 depending on what it is for blasting. Powder coating ranges from &25-100.

 

[rabbithutch]

Thanks, Case!

 

[smokey tex]

$25 to blast, inside and out, including lid. $50 to powder coat exterior of drum and lid.

I live in a town of 80,000 and we have 3 powder coat shops.

All prices about the same at the three shops. Larger stuff costs more. I had them blast my discada and it was $35. Small welded art I do usually is $25-40 depending on what it is for blasting. Powder coating ranges from &25-100.

Things must be really expensive in the Dallas / Fort Worth area.  I started checking around and was quoted $200 to remove the exterior paint from the drum.  That's crazy, especially for a project that is supposed to save money.  So I picked up a weed burner for $19 at Freight Harbor and started doing it myself.  This thing is insanely hot at around 3,000 degrees.  But it works!  One time around the drum and the paint is mostly gone.  I think one more time plus some light sanding should take care of it.  Hopefully none of the neighbors will call the fire department.

 

[smokey tex]

What kind of nuts, bolts, washers, etc. are you using?  Stainless steel sounds like the best, but it get's pretty expensive.  I have heard that zinc coated is not great, but would it really make a difference when you are mostly cooking under 300 degrees?

 

[burgerbob]

 
What kind of nuts, bolts, washers, etc. are you using?  Stainless steel sounds like the best, but it get's pretty expensive.  I have heard that zinc coated is not great, but would it really make a difference when you are mostly cooking under 300 degrees?

I used stainless steel for all.  I would NOT recommend using zinc coated.

 

[ironhorse07]

I burned mine off with a harbor freight weed burner, was like $15 with a coupon. I also went 3/4" on my inlets, too small, only get about 275 wide open. One of these days I'll fix that but like Case said earlier, since I built my mini I don't use the UDS near as much.

 

[smokey tex]

After 2 serious burns, washing, and 4 hours of using an angle grinder, my drum is finally free of paint.  That's a lot of work, but it should get more fun from here as it comes together.

 

[timberjet]

 
I mentioned "food safe" in my previous statement so that he wasn't using just any used barrel that could have held some sort of chemical previously. As long as he is buying brand new, and it sounds like he is, then this shouldn't be a problem and you can get them specifically without the liner. 

I will mention something about the burning process.  I have found that it is easier to burn the outside with a propane weed burner which it turn will burn off the inside.  I have a weed burner and they can be a little bit expensive but if you know anyone that already has one, then I would highly suggest borrowing it.  If you don't know what a weed burner is, I included a link to the one I have.

http://flameengineering.com/

you don't need new drums or food safe drums that is what the burn out is for as well as removing the paint. once burnt out and seasoned it matters not what was in the barrel. I have 2 and they were both petroleum barrels. Perfectly safe.

 

[timberjet]

 
I used stainless steel for all.  I would NOT recommend using zinc coated.

Cooking temperatures are not high enough for zinc coated hardware to off gas. If you are really worried about it do your final burn out with the bolts installed. That will take care of it. Stainless is expensive.