New guy first build

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I'm not sure it has anything to do with flux core welding. If you are sure the pipe is bulging out, I was able to place a bottle jack on the huh spot on mine,and wrap a chain around it. It pushed back in a essay enough but I have some pretty stubborn thick walls on my pipe, so it springs back. I'm going to need more firepower on mine, but might work on yours. Keep playing with it before you put flanges on just to make sure you don't need to make any door adjustment. As a last ditch attempt I may have to form my door do the pipe...
 
Was planning on flat caps I only need 5" I think to meet specs for other end 17-1/4 by 5" high so I figured I would give it 6" for flow.Dave recommended 60-90 CI.Was thinking of doing ends and fire box out of 3/16 only scrap place I can get plate 1/4 is scarce with out buying new.Plan on making insulated fire box.Do you guys try to polish inside of pipe or just grind/sand heavy rust off then spray with pam.My door opening is a little jacked up/uneven so I think I will put bottle jack in there on rf plate tweak it a little if it helps weld plate in and see what happens.I was going to leave rf plate stick out other end to hang fire box on for support and something to weld to.Good idea or not.Sorry for mess was trying to combine every thing into one thread.
 
What I'm saying about the reverse flow plate...you can use the plate to pull in or push out on the pipe in order to get it back to shape.. Using the chain and bottle jack like he suggested, find out where it needs to be tweaked...use a toilet paper roll and squeeze it in different spots to get the concept.
 
You could try cutting out some door ribs out of 1/4 flat plate. I took a piece of cardboard laid it up against the CC sides with the door open, traced the radius with a black marker. Then cut it out and used it as a template for the ribs.  Tack weld the ribs in place and reshape your door as you go. It should fit the CC radius fine when done. Worked for me.
 
Was playing around today found if I put bottle jack in pipe at 9and 3 on one end and jack it a little out of round my door fits a lot better.I guess I can weld end plate on with it jacked out.It not being perfectly round doesn't bother me at all if my door seals.May go with some toggle latches on bottom of door as well.If I do another I will learn from my mistakes.No matter how bad it turns out still 100% better than my 179.99 char broiler.
 
New twist for deflector plate in fire box.Why can't I weld heavy angle iron on side walls at top and slide deflector plate in and let it stick out the back into cc about 4".That way the deflector plate can flex as much as it wants and a lot easier than hanging it from bolts.
 
Doesn't look too bad for being already cut to size! I think your angle iron idea will work good for the deflector plate, you could always tack one side and let the other side float.
 
265#  9 pieces 1/4 plate for end caps and fire box cut on shear I was pretty happy.With out legs or stack i'm at 530#
 
Looks like $200 to me, but then I have been there too.

Your idea for the firebox deflector plate is a good one.

Quick, cheap and easy!

Also makes it easy to replace if need be down the road.

For fireboxes with the door on the end it will work great.

My door is on the front, otherwise I would borrow that idea.
 
bishgeo, When I put my heat baffle in I used a drawing from the master minds of Dave and Ribwizzard. The plate is bolted to the top of the FB in two places, then 3 bolts run along both the right and left sides. What this did was allowed me to adjust the height of the baffle to fine tune it. Did my first burn today and got it to give me a 5+ degree difference between the right and left side of CC. Just a suggestion.
 
Yea I have seen that drawing great design a little too technical for me lets face it i'm pretty lazy and try to do it as easy as possible.Should accomplish the same result with a lot more time to drink beer.
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Question,my fire box to cc opening is 17.5x5 buy the time I get fire box up there take away 1/4 then another 1/4-1/2 for deflector plate is that going to work. Rf plate is already cut to size.
 
It's a learning process, someone should have told me the front and back of fire box can't be same size as other four pieces l learned that the hard way.Oh well ill hide it on bottom side.
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It's a learning process, someone should have told me the front and back of fire box can't be same size as other four pieces l learned that the hard way.Oh well ill hide it on bottom side.
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I don't understand, what happened? All six sides of my firebox were exactly the same size, down to less than a 16th of an inch. This allows nice fit up and a good groove to weld in. (assuming its a square firebox and not more of a rectangle in dimensions)

Looking good though. Nice job with the heat shield
 
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