Need help with PID setup

[mowog]

I am in the process of hacking my PID'd electric smoker from 120v to 240v. It is running now on an ancient but incredibly robust West 2072 temperature controller, connection diagram shown below.

My question is, to run the PID on 240v (US), do I connect the 2 hot wires to terminals 3 & 4 or 3 & 5? Currently connected to 120v on terminals 4 & 5.
Thanks, in advance.

 

[JckDanls 07]

If your using an SSR the PID will not need 240...

But to answer you question... Not quite sure what #5 is for... But i'm gonna say 3 and 4... See what the pros say..

 

[river100]

I am in the process of hacking my PID'd electric smoker from 120v to 240v. It is running now on an ancient but incredibly robust West 2072 temperature controller, connection diagram shown below.

My question is, to run the PID on 240v (US), do I connect the 2 hot wires to terminals 3 & 4 or 3 & 5? Currently connected to 120v on terminals 4 & 5.
Thanks, in advance.



View attachment 659284

Late response but. You should be good with 3 & 4. I'll look up the manual for it tomorrow to dbl check. Are you going to keep the element on 120vac?

 

[river100]

I am in the process of hacking my PID'd electric smoker from 120v to 240v. It is running now on an ancient but incredibly robust West 2072 temperature controller, connection diagram shown below.

My question is, to run the PID on 240v (US), do I connect the 2 hot wires to terminals 3 & 4 or 3 & 5? Currently connected to 120v on terminals 4 & 5.
Thanks, in advance.



View attachment 659284

# 5 is the neutral for 110vac. So no don't use it for 220vac.

 

[mowog]

Late response but. You should be good with 3 & 4. I'll look up the manual for it tomorrow to dbl check. Are you going to keep the element on 120vac?

Thank you for the help. The plan is to run everything on 240v; I've upgraded the element, wiring and connections to accommodate the change. It was only after making the commitment to upgrade that I realized the pdf manual I have for the controller only contains the odd pages and is missing the particulars for the power connection. I figured I could always continue to run the controller on 120 and power the element with 240v, but I'd like to keep it simple with just one electrical connection.

 

[river100]

Thank you for the help. The plan is to run everything on 240v; I've upgraded the element, wiring and connections to accommodate the change. It was only after making the commitment to upgrade that I realized the pdf manual I have for the controller only contains the odd pages and is missing the particulars for the power connection. I figured I could always continue to run the controller on 120 and power the element with 240v, but I'd like to keep it simple with just one electrical connection.

I looked into your PID controller. It's pretty old and very expensive. If you have any issues with it I'd look into a modern PID. The cheaper ones don't have many options but they will definitely do the job. I use SOLO PIDs, which have a ton of options,, for production machines and they only cost about $ 130 USD. Auber Instruments has a variety of standalone PID controllers Below $ 100.
I'm not recommending the SOLO unit, just using it as an example. I would look at Auber if you get a new PID.
BTW, good luck with your mod. I'm going to be doing a PID addition to my med 40 Gen 1 this weekend.

 

[JC in GB]

A REX C-100 PID is inexpensive and will run on either 110 or 220 VAC.

I get mine from AliExpress but they are also available on Amazon.



JC

 

[02ebz06]

The way I see it, you use 3,4,6. No 5
120V lines to 3 & 4 and ground to 6.
You probably know this, but the 120V lines need to be from separate in feeds in the breaker box.

 

[mowog]

A quick update:

Success! It was indeed terminals 3&4. Finally got around to getting the wiring done, plugged it in to the 240 outlet and flipped the switch. No smoke (in a good way), lights lit up and self-tested, contactor started clicking away just like it used to. Immediately noticed the PID now has a barely audible hum/buzz which, upon investigating, is an internal step-down transformer, which I can certainly live with. Next step wire up the new heating element and cook something.

Thank you all again for the wisdom and support.