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Discussion in 'Smoke Houses' started by pops6927, Feb 7, 2010.
Pops, excellent thread and very educational.
Thank You, Pops! I now have a very good start for my own smokehouse.
Answer to a question I had:
Originally Posted by Pops6927
How many smokes can you get out of a tank of propane (or hours worth)? I've done 8 hours so far, it was a new tank to start with, just wondering when I'll have to change it.
Believe it or not I get about 2 plus 12 hour smokes with my 20lb full tank. The trick is to keep your temps down at first to around 110 to 125, for the first 2 to 3 hrs. Then raise ur smoker temps to about 150 for about 3 to 4 hours, then finish at about 175 to 180, untill your internal is about 150 to 165 (depending on what your smoking) Of course this is all pending on cured meat.
Personally I don't smoke anything in my smokehouse that ain't cured. THe low and slow method really gives you a deep and smokey presence in the meat, and gives you a high quality product.
This is how the Pennsylvania Dutch do thier Lebanon Belonga, except they cold smoke it for about a week. Of course they use instacure #2 and cultures, but low and slow really are the way to go. Espically if you want to get the most out of your fuel.
Pops if you want to you can feel free to post this so all the guys on the fourm can read.
If ur naght the lead dawg the vu nver changes
Pops great looking smokehouse. I have been wanting to build one for a while. Now that i see yours i think that will be my summer project. I was wanting to know if you could post a materials list of the items you used. Thanks
February 2010 build; wooden smokehouse
Bill of Materials:
4 sheets 4x8 4 ply 17/32" exterior sanded 1 side plywood
1 sheet 4x8 7 ply 23/32" exterior sanded 1 side plywood
1 1x4 8' pine
3 2x4 8' pine
5 1x2 8' pine
6 1x48 dowel
3 ½x48 dowel
3 ½"x½" square metal 36" rods
2 4"x8" 3-way registers
1 silicone tube caulk
1 firestop tube caulk
1 flash mount tube caulk
1 caulk tool (to use in corners)
spring bronze weatherstripping
2 roof edge 8'
8 12"x12"x1½" stones
2 door pulls
2 gate latches
1 heavy duty burner
12' hose with regulator
teflon thread tape
1" drywall screws
1¼" drywall screws
2½" galv. ext. screws
skil-type power saw
wood clamps, C and Bar
straight and tape rules
drill bits and phillips screw tips
hand and back saws
2 sets sawhorses
Beautiful build and superb documentation. It was an amazing difference of the color of the bird from your old smoker to your custom built smoker...the new smoker gives them an incredible carmel color that makes my mouth water!!!
Pops, I know there is probally no need to remind you, but for all looking to buil a smokehouse, here I go. IMPORTANT!!!!! When using gas be careful when lowering your flame. Carefully monitor your internal smokehouse temps. If your temps drop, assume that your flame is out and shut off your gas and access problem before relighting. I use my Maverick et73 and closely monitor, and reset the low smoker temps often, as the temps climb. Once temps stablize set your temps about 10 to 15 below operating temp.that way you'll get it shut off before anything happens.
bingo! when the flame gets lowered it becomes more unstable. if a draft or anything snuffs out that flame you are pouring propane into your smoker: no good. for that reason i installed a thermocouple with a safety valve, kinda spendy but i feel better. be safe.
I was wondering what it would take to put in a thermostat control w/pilot light, thermocouple, etc.? Where could you get one, how much, etc.?
Saw this previous post and got these from Harbor Freight:
In place of the fence gate catch. The catch worked ok but you had to almost slam the door to get it to shut; over time it would rip out the hinges I am sure. This is much better; just hold near closed and clamp down!
Don't get them too close to the opening edge otherwise it won't raise up enough to allow missing the door and keeping it from opening. They work great, I'll get some lock washers to keep the hold down rubber stop from loosening it's nuts, though.
Plus, it is safer closing the lower door too, in light of above post about blowing out the flame; much gentler way to get it to close.
Pops if you were smoking turkeys for the public how much would you charge over the price of the turkey ?
Well, New Braunfels Smokehouse charges $52.95 for their 11-13lb turkey and 55.95 for their 13-15 lb'er.
Considering I buy 15lb turkeys @ 86¢ lb, or about $13.00 each, add in $1 worth of sugar, salt and curing compound, and 6 hour smoke of about $4 of propane and $2 of wood, that comes up to $20 cost. I'd gladly sell ya one at that price ($55.95) lol! If I had a store and inspected facility with regulation Koch smokehouses I would probably have to charge $45 or more to make money at it. Your cost of the bird would go down a bit and your ingredients would be about half, your sawdust for the automatic feeder would be cheaper also so your total cost would probably be around $10-$12 per bird to produce. But your overhead is what would eat up the profit.
Just wanted to post a few updated pics of my smokehouse now, and where i put Todd Johnson's A-Maze-N® Pellet Smoker:
A-Maze-N® Pellet Smoker on the drip pan bars:
when i built my smoke house couple of years back i jusst used replacement woodstove gasket and glued it on with hi-temp silicone works great
I tried to find gasket locally and had a deuce of a time, and what I did find was uber expensive. I did find cheap bronze exterior door seal and in conjunction with the hold down clamps for the doors, it works great! It was only a few dollars a roll at Ace Hardware and I bought two rolls, only needed one!
Yes and I forgot to THANK YOU for answering my question....THANK YOU !!!! I own a building on a main Hwy where I could do something like this and other preordered smokes. Still thinking about it.
Awesome build, Pops! Thanks for the details and the update.
I think a smokehouse is in my future. My MES 30 just isn't the greatest for hanging sausage in. I love it but I would really like to have more height to hang sausage.
Question - The smokehouses I've seen have all been raw wood exteriors. Why? Isn't it going to rot in no time?
Found my answer to the raw wood question on a different site. It said the chemicals in the paint(or other solution) may seep to the inside surface do to the heat and be potentially harmful.
But plywood glues/chemicals are ok?
(Not meaning to hijack the thread)
What a reason to build a new one in a few years, eh?