converting to electric

[wvuarmyeng]

wanting to convert my smoker to electric. cc is 48x44x28 for roughly 59k cu in. theres roughly 12" H x 44" L x 28" D were the pellet unit came into.

what about this element and a plug in play from auberns or building one....


also thought of this set up from the 100 lb sausage smoker and this PID

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55&products_id=628

https://www.sausagemaker.com/Mounting-Kit-p/19-1417.htm

I currently have a pellet daddy unit in it and I love it but it doesn't hold low enough temps for my sticks and over cooked I want to hold around 170-180 degrees. also I have no idea when it comes to these PIDs I understand the concept but unsure of whats best for me. we do most of our sticks in the fall and winter. we process deer on the side and make tons of sticks and bologna

thanks for the input guys

 

[redoctobyr]

What voltage will you run? 110, I assume? Heater wattage varies with the square of voltage. So running a 3500W 220V heater on 110V will give you about 875W.

If you're looking for low temps, maybe this is a non-issue. It just seemed like it may be worth mentioning, my apologies if this was known already.

I'm not quite clear on the size that you're describing, but my 30" Masterbuilt has an 800W heater, as a point of reference. Their 40" has 1200W, I believe, and both sizes are insulated.

 

[wvuarmyeng]

I plan on running 220v to this setup. My cc is 59,000 cubic inches. My cabinet is insulated it kept the heat good with the pellet unit just didn't like anything under 200 degrees

 

[redoctobyr]

Ah, sorry, nevermind then. Good luck!

 

[bbqwillie]

It looks to me that you are on the right track with the element and controller. 

As for PIDs:

https://www.csimn.com/CSI_pages/PIDforDummies.html

 

[masonsjax]

I have a very small old grill that I converted to electric. The grates are only 12" x 24", cylindrical style grill, so very small area. I'm running 3 electric stove top elements in parallel that are each rated for 2600w at 240v.  On 120v, it's enough to keep temps in the 225-300F range, but won't go much over that. I thought 2 elements would be plenty, but it wasn't even close to enough. With 3 elements (reading 11.6 ohms), I should be looking at around 1400w, which should be overkill on this tiny firebox, but it's just enough.

This grill was just an experiment. It works pretty well, but I will build something else soon with a larger cooking surface and probably a 4th heating element. Either that or I'll figure out a way to get 220v where I cook. Either way, I'll probably insulate the next iteration which should help too.

I'm controlling it all with a Auber SMD-200, which is a great piece of equipment!

 

[Rings Я Us]

How much does it cost to run ,3 burners for 12 hours? That's alot of electricity isn't it? I never owned an electric stove.

 

[masonsjax]

No, it's not expensive. They're running at a quarter of their rated draw due to feeding them half the voltage. Also with the PID controller, it pulses the supply of power to hold the temperature steady, so they are only on for a fraction of the time. Running it a few times every week has made a negligible impact on my monthly electric bill. The AC on the other hand...

 

[Rings Я Us]

Ok.. that works for me.. kinda was curious haha.. Take care and happy tinkering.
Johnny B

 

[wvuarmyeng]

from what i see/read this is 3500 watts at 240/ volts

Element

using this controller

SSR

Heat Sink

along with hitemp wire and a box to install it all in. would i need a switch or does the PID control that? 

i am wanting to add a small cfm fan (or adjustable using this) controlling some type of fan... i have been looking and cant seem to find one that will fit the purpose any ideas? i will have it moving air over the element at the base of the unit. i was going to set it up to draw off the one exhaust i have now to circulate the air (good idea, not good idea??)

 

[bbqwillie]

 
from what i see/read this is 3500 watts at 240/ volts

Element

using this controller

SSR

Heat Sink

along with hitemp wire and a box to install it all in. would i need a switch or does the PID control that? 

i am wanting to add a small cfm fan (or adjustable using this) controlling some type of fan... i have been looking and cant seem to find one that will fit the purpose any ideas? i will have it moving air over the element at the base of the unit. i was going to set it up to draw off the one exhaust i have now to circulate the air (good idea, not good idea??)

Try one of these:

https://www.firecraft.com/category/...-controls/bbq-smoker-temperature-control-fans

 

[wvuarmyeng]

 
Try one of these:

https://www.firecraft.com/category/...-controls/bbq-smoker-temperature-control-fans

thanks!
 

i found this one  thats 20 cfm. how would i wire it into the PID to come on when the element? also say for hot smokes would i be able to disengage the element and have it just run the fan for charcoal basket?  

the setup i have picked out so far is that good for what i want to do?? we are going to drop a 50A sub off the main panel for the shed. i know how to wire stuff and can read a diagram but im not good when it comes to figuring out the right amperage and wattage stuff

 

[JckDanls 07]

from what i see/read this is 3500 watts at 240/ volts

Element

using this controller

SSR

Heat Sink

along with hitemp wire and a box to install it all in. would i need a switch or does the PID control that? 

i am wanting to add a small cfm fan (or adjustable using this) controlling some type of fan... i have been looking and cant seem to find one that will fit the purpose any ideas? i will have it moving air over the element at the base of the unit. i was going to set it up to draw off the one exhaust i have now to circulate the air (good idea, not good idea??)

I agree with everything on the list except the controller... since your doing sticks and sausage (which needs temps ramped up slowly) .. i went with this controller which ramps temps up automatically (set and forget) after proper set up ... http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4 ... for elements I just found a dead oven and got BOTH elements from it... they are 220V ...

 

[wvuarmyeng]

We never ramped the the temps on sticks set it at 170-180 when we used are MES and left then go. We don't really do sausage just fresh stuff.

 

[wvuarmyeng]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=634 or would I better off with this unit since its already set up?? the smd-200 has a ramp feature in it

or this one

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58_55&products_id=628

or this one lol

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58_55&products_id=631

just soo many choices I don't really see the difference in all of them lol

 

[bbqwillie]

 
thanks!
 

i found this one  thats 20 cfm. how would i wire it into the PID to come on when the element? also say for hot smokes would i be able to disengage the element and have it just run the fan for charcoal basket?  

Try this for the fan wiring.

20170726_174242.jpg

• bbqwillie
• Jul 26, 2017

Element ON/OFF switch ON: When the PID sends a 12V signal for the SSR to turn on the Element, it will also turn on the 12V fan. (Element-ON, Fan-ON). When the PID turns OFF the signal to the SSR to turn the element OFF, Fan turns OFF

Element ON/OFF switch OFF: When PID sends signal that would normally turn on SSR, ON/OFF switch blocks the voltage to the SSR but Voltage to the fan is still present.

Be advised the fan will pulse and appear to run at slower speeds when the Temp in the cook chamber is at or near the programmed setting.

 

[masonsjax]

Wouldn't you want the fan always on? That would allow it to prevent hot spots always, not just when heat is applied. I learned that lesson from my beer brewing fermentation chambers that heat or cool to hold a temp. They cycle very rarely once temp is stable, but the top of the chamber can be measurably warmer than the bottom unless fans are always on.

Also, a PID pulses an SSR often, like many times per second even. Do you really need the fan kinda spinning slowly or only on occasionally? Just something to think about.

 

[bbqwillie]

Wouldn't you want the fan always on? That would allow it to prevent hot spots always, not just when heat is applied. I learned that lesson from my beer brewing fermentation chambers that heat or cool to hold a temp. They cycle very rarely once temp is stable, but the top of the chamber can be measurably warmer than the bottom unless fans are always on.

Also, a PID pulses an SSR often, like many times per second even. Do you really need the fan kinda spinning slowly or only on occasionally? Just something to think about.

I agree with you but that's not what he asked for.... He wanted the PID to run the fan with the option to turn off the element when he used charcoal. That's what I gave him.

 

[wvuarmyeng]

Wouldn't you want the fan always on? That would allow it to prevent hot spots always, not just when heat is applied. I learned that lesson from my beer brewing fermentation chambers that heat or cool to hold a temp. They cycle very rarely once temp is stable, but the top of the chamber can be measurably warmer than the bottom unless fans are always on.

Also, a PID pulses an SSR often, like many times per second even. Do you really need the fan kinda spinning slowly or only on occasionally? Just something to think about.

thanks guys with the fan blowing in the bottom at all times (drawing in fresh cool air) wont this cause the element/pid to run all the time? I was thinking of ways to recirculate the air by drawing it from my one exhaust that I'm closing off and pushing it back in the bottom next the element but I cant seem to find a fan rated for higher temps that it may see. I mean heck I could just be over thinking it all...

 

[wvuarmyeng]

hmmm

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=452

wonder if I used this controller on the fan.....