250gal Reverse Flow Trailer Build

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looks great....

if you were to start over....would you add the support for the doors before you cut them fully out? Do you think it would help eliminate the spring you incurred? would you figure a way to incorporate the inge into the supports? i like their looks and think they would help, but never tried it before......
 
looks great....

if you were to start over....would you add the support for the doors before you cut them fully out? Do you think it would help eliminate the spring you incurred? would you figure a way to incorporate the inge into the supports? i like their looks and think they would help, but never tried it before......

With the design I incorporated into the braces they extend over the bottom flange and line up even with the bottom of the flange. So to answer your question I can't imagine it would be possible to cut the bottom side of the door then spot weld the flange from the backside, and then weld the support on the outside overtop the bottom flange.
Maybe if you were stich welding it from the outside you could do it, but it just seems that you'd only "potentially" eliminate the problem, only to add another through the install process.

Edited to answer the second question I overlooked the first time.
As far as incorporating the brace with the hinges, that would prob work and look just as good. I would still just cut out the doors and attach the flanges then design the template for the brace/hinge.
 
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I put 1" x 1/8" strapping on mine.  When I got doors all tuned in today had a slight gap on one tank.  My solution for it is going to be the installation of door latches.  As far as the welder goes I couldn't go the stroke of a miller or hobart so I bought of all things a Harbor Freight 180 amp and extended earranty.  Doing one heck of a job and total cost of only $279 plus warranty.  Welder is only rated at 20% but by the time I get stuff lined/cut ect I have gone past my wait.  For those of you who don't know 20% duty rating means 2 minutes of welding per 10 minutes.  Unless you are really cranking out the welds this will get you through your project.

Nice job by the way.  Can't wait to see your progress.
 
Nothin at all wrong with the HF Welders, if it serves the purpose for you.
I'm just biased to ol' Red (Lincoln) and for the right price I'd sway on over to the blue (Miller)
:biggrin:
And thank you for the positive feedback.
 
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Yep, and if you have any horizontal warp'age going on in the door, you can use your handle to either push out on the gussets, or pull in on them to correct that.

Get what I mean??/
 
Trip to the metal yard today, and I should be ready to frame up the trailer and tack up and weld most of the firebox tomorrow, and BOY AM I LOOKING FOWARD TO GETTIN - ER- DONE
 
Very nice looking trailer for your rig. Hopefully this does not sound like I'm bashing, but I would run a piece of tubing on the bottom of each side from the cross member at the rear of the tongue to the front of the spring hanger. This may not be necessary, but it would make it much stronger. The most stress will be at the welds where the tongue meets the trailer box. If it ever fails it will be at the rear of the tongue. I am not trying to be critical, just my opinion.
 
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Very nice looking trailer for your rig. Hopefully this does not sound like I'm bashing, but I would run a piece of tubing on the bottom of each side from the cross member at the rear of the tongue to the front of the spring hanger. This may not be necessary, but it would make it much stronger. The most stress will be at the welds where the tongue meets the trailer box. If it ever fails it will be at the rear of the tongue. I am not trying to be critical, just my opinion.
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying.
Given the weight I already have in this trailer, CC, and Firebox I'm just not sure the added weight/strength from the additional tubing would net me much in the way of added strength, but if you can clarify more of what you mean and show me the value then I may consider it. Any other thoughts, opinions, or emotional outbursts on the currentsetup??
 

The red outline is where I would add a piece of tubing on both sides. Weld the front end to the rear of the tongue you already have. The leverage created by the tongue is only applied to the first foot or so of the trailer the way it is now. You could easily have 800lbs or more of force at the back end of the tongue with just 200lb weight at the hitch. That bouncing down the road will be a lot on the trailer frame. Adding this would spread that stress out over a longer portion of the trailer frame. If you look at any well built utility trailer or car hauler they have the tongue extended the same way I am talking about.

As I said before, you may never have a problem with it the way it is. I think that the little extra weight added by this would make it a lot stronger though. You are building a great looking rig and I would hate to see it messed up because the trailer frame bent going down the highway.

You know what they say about opinions, but this is mine.
 
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Okay, so for those of you wondering I work weekends and am off every Tuesday and Wednesday. That being said, I'm going to be cutting the hole in the tank for the exhaust pipe on Tuesday and I'm wondering what is the easiest way to layout the hole and cut it seeing as I dont have access to anything to cut metal with other than a 4 1/2" & 7" grinder, and an assortment of hole saws but none big enough for the 6" exhaust pipe.
So any tips to get me started on Tuesday?
I will return the favor with more smoker p#%& (aka. pics) thats what my wife jokes about cause I spend THAT MUCH TIME reading buld forums. I think I have a problem, and this is how I'm currently seeking help.
 
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I LOVE YOUR COOK CHAMBER DOORS!!  I AM THINKING ABOUT DOING SOMETHING VERY SIMILAR WITH A BASEBALL BAT BETWEEN THE DOOR BRACES FOR A HANDLE.  THANKS FOR THE IDEAS.
 
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