UDS Weber Lid Mod/ Shim Ideas W/Pics

[travisty]

Wanted to show people what I used as a lid shim to make the Weber Kettle lid fit onto my UDS. Couldn't really find any posts dedicated to this, so wanted people to share what they did for this. (IF YOU WANT TO SKIP OVER MY LONG WINDED TENDANCY, THE PARAGRAPH STARTING WITH 

GETS TO THE MEAT OF THE PROJECT)

For me, I don't have any major tools/welders, or things like that, so I needed to find something that would work without the need for that stuff. I posted this in my actual build post, but wanted to share it here so anyone looking for this specifically, and other options/ideas you guys may have can find it easier.

I was procrastinating this project because I couldn't think of what to use as a lid shim, as the Weber lid is slightly too small to fit on the drum alone, and the idea to try and use wood popped into my head. First I'll mention some of the other products I think could work without having to have special tools to bend and weld, etc. I walked around home Depot and Lowe's for a while debating what to use. Some of the best I found we're thinner steel strips they have in the roofing section of the store, they have varying sizes and lengths all with pre-drilled holes.  Another, are aluminum strips they have in the flooring or misc trim section of the store, about 1-2" wide and the thickness of a quarter. Various types and sizes of wood trim pieces in the finish work/wall trim area, and what I ended up using which is some cedar "lath"

So basically, I liked the wood idea because it is a thicker material, thus providing a more stable base, but being that it is wood it also provides a better natural seal against the lid.

I took a piece of lath, and calculated that it needed to be just shy of 70", soaked it in water for about 10 minutes, then it easily bent to the inside of the drum. (try to find a piece with no knots.) Clamped it in place, at 4-6 points and let the wood dry.

A couple hours later, I pulled the ring out, applied some high heat caulk around the rim of the barrel and put the wood ring back in and again clamped it.

After a few hours I installed some hardware with large washers to keep it all in place.

Then I installed a rope gasket around the lip of the barrel and up the side of the lath to make a good tight seal when closed.

Here is what it all looked like: (oh I also added the hardware for, and the second rack)

IMG_20170529_203906932_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

• travisty
• May 29, 2017

IMG_20170529_203914794_BURST001.jpg

• travisty
• May 29, 2017

Used the same pig handle from the old lid, and the smokestack from a Lowe's brand smoker

IMG_20170529_204005342.jpg

• travisty
• May 29, 2017

What else have you used for this mod? (Ive heard others say that the 22.5" Weber lid should fit a 55 gallon drum without a shim, but this has not been my experience with the 3 drums I have)

 

[GaryHibbert]

Nice job. Looks like a perfect fit now.

Gary

 

[mshred]

Cool! Have a weber lid I am waiting on and I know it won't fit (tad small) so I was just going to gently open up the lip all the way around on the Weber and hope for the best, but this is a nifty idea too!

 

[travisty]

Cool! Have a weber lid I am waiting on and I know it won't fit (tad small) so I was just going to gently open up the lip all the way around on the Weber and hope for the best, but this is a nifty idea too!

I had considered doing that too, so let me know how it turns out.

The Weber lids actually have a ceramic like powder coat, and if you even slightly dent or bend it, the surround paint gets little glass-like cracks, so I had assumed this would cause a problem like that, and didn't want to have to grind the while thing.

Not certain that will happen, just saying that's why I didn't want to try it.

 

[mshred]

.

I had considered doing that too, so let me know how it turns out.

The Weber lids actually have a ceramic like powder coat, and if you even slightly dent or bend it, the surround paint gets little glass-like cracks, so I had assumed this would cause a problem like that, and didn't want to have to grind the while thing.

Not certain that will happen, just saying that's why I didn't want to try it.

I'll let you know how it goes for sure! Hopefully no cracking of the clear!

 

[hinds90]

How are you liking the big poppa draft vent door? I like the simplicity of it but it seems it would be greatly affected by wind.

 

[travisty]

How are you liking the big poppa draft vent door? I like the simplicity of it but it seems it would be greatly affected by wind.

I don't like them. What i did when i built my second drum, is i didn't even drill holes for one of the two sides, but still mounted the hardware to look nice. Then on the second side, i did drill holes before i decided to change tactics, and what i ended up doing was getting the BBQ Guru slider rather than the slider piece it comes with, i installed that, slid it to be over just one hole, and used some high heat caulk to seal up the other holes.

The only oxygen source for mine now is just the BBQ guru, other than the out vent, as pictured above. I made the same modification to my first drum, but cleaning around the holes, sealing the one side completely shut, and sealing all but one hole shut on the other with the BBQ Guru insert (which BPS sells on their site)

No question those holes were VERY affected by wind

 

[hinds90]

I really like the look of the slide draft door. I was going to make my own from scratch but it gets way to windy where I'm at so I'm going with the hunsaker style 1 big hole on the bottom

 

[ShawnMason]

First off this is all based on travisty post. My drum is just large enough a Weber would fall right through. I found one for $25 that needed new bottom dampers and I just couldn't bring myself to cut it up even if it would have worked but I wanted to be able to move the lid back and forth. I found a 8' piece of untreated pine 1/4" thick x 1.5" wide. I measure and cut this down just a hair under 70.75". I was able to bend it enough to fit in the bathtub and soaked it overnight. From there I was able to start clamping it in place using 12 clamps, would have used more if I had them. I let this dry overnight and put some straps on the inside using stainless #6 3/8" screws. I cut down a stainless hose clamp into 2 pieces and predrilled the starter hole and put in the screws part of the way. Put on some ribs and thighs and held 250° for 4 plus hours. It did a great job and if you didn't get a good seal you could always leave it in a circle and resoak it I suspect and reclamp. I also wanted to use the grate from the weber for an extra shelf but not drill any more screws into the drum. With a few stainless carriage bolts, nuts and washers here is the Weber shelf. I did go back and add a 4th leg. I can leave these in place and just move it back and forth. The ring sits on top of the Weber lid when not being used. Behold R6-D4 rolling smoke on the maiden voyage.