Seasoning wood

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charles1056

Meat Mopper
Original poster
Dec 26, 2007
273
10
Tyler, TX
Maybe this is an obvious for some, but I was wondering about seasoning wood. I know it has to dry for several months prior to using it, but it there anything else involved in the seasoning process? I have access to pecan and am currently drying some for smoking, so would appreciate any further info on this from the forum.
 
You should dry if off the ground (such as stacked on 2X4s) to let air circulate. Probably don't want moldy wood!
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Keith
 
i would think you would want to stack it like they do for fireplaces..........so air can circulate around and thru the wood stack.....
 
The wife wanted a fence, so I build one for her every year, then.........I burn it when it is the season!!!!
 
Steve, looks like ya got a good start on it there!
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Realistically, I should have the top covered to keep the moisture off it to properly season it, but at the end of the summers, I move my art work under cover and make a different "fence" and start all over.

Seriously, there are sites on the i-net on proper ways to dry wood. I tried to find my favorite site, but couldn't. It is amazing the difference in btu-s compared to wet and dry. Believe it or not, all wood has the same btu rating when dry, but its the weight or density that delivers the most bang for the buck. Example, Cherry is much heavier than Poplar, so it takes less to keep the house or smoker warm , whatever. If one were to try to heat a house with pine, it might take 3 cords more than with oak.

Seasoning wood is best done in a shed with vented or open style walls and a roof:-)

Steve
 
So, is this like saying a dryed piece of say....Shagbark Hickory is equivilent to White Pine? When Dry?
 
Steve;

That is beautiful! And I am not a man that uses the word "beautiful" very often. If you have any other pics of the like from different veiws or projects I would like to see them. Thanks
 
As far as BTU's go, From what I understand, if all wood is at the same dryness(obviously, water is heavy), and you burn it, it has the same btu rating per pound, so 1 cord of hickory may weigh 4000lbs, and one cord of pine might weigh 1000lbs, so one would have to burn 4 cords of pine to get the same heat as the hickory. But technically, BTUS are the same for wood per pound-----I THINK___some one should google it to get the stats.

In short, if you know your would is all dry and you don't know the different kinds of wood you have, (if dry) the heavy piece will yield more heat:-)
 
What about feather wood?

Hi Zapper, Thanks for kind words, I will try to get another pic of that woodpile for ya,

Steve
 
Here 2 more pictures, I wish I could find my other pictures, I have done 8 or 9 years worth of different wood pile styles and creations. Kind of one of those things, I enjoy doing it but I don't always take good pictures:-)
 
Cool.

I am gonna have to get a firewood processor just so I can start stacking cordwood cabins and the like.
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And for Walking Dude....

If a rooster laid an egg.....
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I got a million of them.....

..........Unfortunately they don't get any better!
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Steve's got the answer for you.

Seasoning wood is best done in a shed with vented or open style walls and a roof:-)

Steve

A long time ago, we heated with wood and that's exactly the way we did it. Protect it from the elements, allow ventilation and time. Good luck.
 
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