RF Build In Slow Motion (Sinks are done!)

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Cool i'll be watching.
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On to phase 2. My buddy Gary found these at the Habitat Restore. Not bad for $40.

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So we are going to put them here.

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Which should look like

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For now we are planning on using a 12V RV water pump and a RV LPG tankless waterheater. The sink attached to the fire/warming box will be for handwashing. Either a 20 or 30 gal HDPE barrel will be used for potable water. We have yet to figure out what we will use for the greywater tank. Also, we are making plans for a couple burners and a grill. Fabrication will begin again in two weeks.
Ok....Just thinking out loud......What if you were to use a couple 55gal food grade drums??? One for potable water and the second for gray water.....It will add about 490lbs (water is 8.35lbs per gallon plus the weight of the drum, I estimated 30lbs) to the total weight.....Depending on what your needs are, you can raise the drum above the sink and gravity will take care of water pressure..or you can add a small 12v pump that will be used as needed......to pump the water to the sink....Again, I’m just bouncing ideals, so hope it helps.....BTW that is one HUGE build and it is GREAT to see the pictures....Thanks for posting them....I hope that I will be able to post pictures of my own build soon...ShoneyBoy
 
Ok....Just thinking out loud......What if you were to use a couple 55gal food grade drums??? One for potable water and the second for gray water.....It will add about 490lbs (water is 8.35lbs per gallon plus the weight of the drum, I estimated 30lbs) to the total weight.....Depending on what your needs are, you can raise the drum above the sink and gravity will take care of water pressure..or you can add a small 12v pump that will be used as needed......to pump the water to the sink....Again, I’m just bouncing ideals, so hope it helps.....BTW that is one HUGE build and it is GREAT to see the pictures....Thanks for posting them....I hope that I will be able to post pictures of my own build soon...ShoneyBoy


Originally I had planned to use 55 gal drums but there are two problems with that. The first is that the greywater tank has to be 15% bigger than the potable water tank. The second being that the drains will work on gravity and there isn't enough clearance to fit a 55 gal drum underneath and go over a large speed bump with out sacrificing the drum. My original plan was to use gravity but the health dept also requires a minimum pressure. Then I thought why not just pressurize the drum with an air compressor but I suspect all the coalescing filters in the world wouldn't get a nod from the HD. So a 12V RV pump is going to be the way to go for us. Thanks for the ideas though!

It definitely is a huge build. Glad you enjoyed it thus far.
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Looking forward to seeing pics of yours soon.
 
What if you lay the gray water drum on its side.... allowing it to saddle in-between the rails of your trailer, this will allow it to sit lower on the trailer.  Depending on how hi the bottom of the sink drain is you may be able to situate one the bung hole at 12 oclock to plumb the drain directly from the sink into... and with the bottom one you can plumb it with a hand valve for easy draining...  I have seen 30gal food grade drums http://www.arizonabarrels.com/  (use this for potable water), and using a 55gal for gray water will more than meet the 15% requirement.....Yes you would probably need to pump the freshwater to the sink, Still thinking ......hope I'm helping and not causing problems......
 
The diameter of the HDPE drums are roughly 24" and there wouldn't be enough clearance thus my speedbump point. Keep thinking about it though, I am sure you will think of something I have missed. :o)
 
portable RV waste holding tanks. they are flat and also have wheels for transport to a waste drain. you can make a tank holder that sits under the trailer and the tank will roll right up into it and lock it in. when full roll the tank out to take to a waste station to drain... just one more idea. they have different size tanks for your needs. I found and bought one on craigs list.. good luck with the build, it's awesome



http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...=aps&hvadid=7878114949&ref=pd_sl_7b0so7xj9j_b
 
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portable RV waste holding tanks. they are flat and also have wheels for transport to a waste drain. you can make a tank holder that sits under the trailer and the tank will roll right up into it and lock it in. when full roll the tank out to take to a waste station to drain... just one more idea. they have different size tanks for your needs. I found and bought one on craigs list.. good luck with the build, it's awesome



http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...=aps&hvadid=7878114949&ref=pd_sl_7b0so7xj9j_b


I like that idea a lot. Thanks Keith!
 
The heck with the water.. Where's the freekin TV..................
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Joe
 
Solar, morning.... How about a small sump with a pump to deliver the grey water to the barrel.... Maybe even a float switch if a manual switch was not a good idea..... Of course you could have the sump pump run when ever the water pump was running.... that might work.... Dave
 
Why not just put a RV gray water holding tank and fresh water tank between the frame, like on a camper. They do not cost allot and are easy to install, would be even easier with no floor in. I had to replace them on a used camper I bought to resell several years ago and if memory serves me correctly they cost under 250 for both. I picked the camper up dirt cheap as they guy didn't winterize it and froze every thing up and his insurance payed, and let him keep camper. 
 
The heck with the water.. Where's the freekin TV..................
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Joe


That is being planned for phase eleventybillion.
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Solar, morning.... How about a small sump with a pump to deliver the grey water to the barrel.... Maybe even a float switch if a manual switch was not a good idea..... Of course you could have the sump pump run when ever the water pump was running.... that might work.... Dave


That's a pretty good idea too Dave. Thanks!


Why not just put a RV gray water holding tank and fresh water tank between the frame, like on a camper. They do not cost allot and are easy to install, would be even easier with no floor in. I had to replace them on a used camper I bought to resell several years ago and if memory serves me correctly they cost under 250 for both. I picked the camper up dirt cheap as they guy didn't winterize it and froze every thing up and his insurance payed, and let him keep camper. 


Because I am a cheap bastard. If I can find them fairly cheap that would be the best route to go. I already have it in mind to visit some local scrap and junk yards and see if there are any campers available. Thanks sprky!

Thanks for all the great ideas so far guys. You all are definitely giving me some things to think about.
 
Just got the reply back from Northern. Both tanks are FDA approved for drinking water. The 16 gallon is 39.99 and the 25 gallon is 49.99, I am starting to build a cooking trailer and I am going to put in the 16 gallon for fresh water and the 25 gallon for my gray water. Pictures to follow.
 
Just got the reply back from Northern. Both tanks are FDA approved for drinking water. The 16 gallon is 39.99 and the 25 gallon is 49.99, I am starting to build a cooking trailer and I am going to put in the 16 gallon for fresh water and the 25 gallon for my gray water. Pictures to follow.
That is very reasonable. Thanks again Gunny!


That's going to be awesome Joel. Cant wait to see those improvements.


Hopefully that, the grill and the fryers will be done in time for the NC gathering.
 
How big is the gap from the RF plate to the end of the curved tank end?  Thinking about building me a much smaller version.

Scott
 
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