Picked up my new Oklahoma Joe smoker

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Looking good so far even without a tuning plate I have a 10 deg variance from side to side. I decided to do another test run before the holiday weekend.
 
I just ordered a couple myself. They are three inch just like the ones in your pic. I also ordered a couple of clamp locks for the door.  I had to re-install the door seal because the hi temp adhesive didn't hold.  I picked up some high temp silicone and re-installed,  I now need to put in a fire shield in smoke chamber between the firebox and chamber to keep the flames in the firebox.

I am also working on a way to make it a reverse flow smoker.  I don't have a welder so everything has to be drilled and bolted.  Any ideas??
 
I picked up an Oklahoma Joe's Highland smoker about a month ago.  Been to busy smokin' to post pics! 
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I just ordered a couple myself. They are three inch just like the ones in your pic. I also ordered a couple of clamp locks for the door.  I had to re-install the door seal because the hi temp adhesive didn't hold.  I picked up some high temp silicone and re-installed,  I now need to put in a fire shield in smoke chamber between the firebox and chamber to keep the flames in the firebox.

I am also working on a way to make it a reverse flow smoker.  I don't have a welder so everything has to be drilled and bolted.  Any ideas??
how big of a fire do you  have ? sounds like a bonfire lol I have never had that problem with flames in the CB
 
Looks great man, I'm considering some mods for my wsm 18.5. I really like the look of the Cajun bandit doors, so that's probably first on the list.
 
Well, maybe flames was a bit over stated.  The heat from the fire box is almost direct at the end of the smoking chamber.  A diffuser would be a big help in maintaining an even temp.  There are at times flames that come into the smoking chamber when I add wood, and I don't want that to happen.  NO it is not a bonfire.  LOL  it is just  four or five sticks of hickory.  I am sure that the flames that do come in only do so when the main door is opened.  Even so, the direct heat is not what I am working toward.  The mods I am adding are meant to improve and regulate the amount of heat in the chamber so that it remains constant across the entire length.
 
OP-  nice mods! 

I used high temp silicone to seal my doors.  Wiped it down on the flange area good with brake clean and then followed up with non ammonia window cleaner.  Then I cut the tip fine on the silicone and used it to seal the edge gaps where the main body meets the door flange.  Did the old wipe around with the finger deal to make sure it was pushed in there well.  Then ran a bead around the door opening on the flange and placed plastic wrap I'd sprayed with PAM over.  Laid it so that it only rested on the outer edge of the cook chamber and the top of the silicone bead.  Did not want to get PAM on the flange.  Then carefully closed the door and left it.

Now just have one tiny wisp on one edge.  I'll either re silicone or perhaps consider latches to suck the door down even tighter. 

One tip, although you need to be careful doing this, I found worked nicely to start with on my firebox door was to hammer and dolly the flange so they fit well.  Was not welded on well at all on my pit.  Had gaps between the pit and the flange.  Did not take a lot of work to get the flange gaps between the box and it much tighter.

Question on the chimney.  Did you just pic up a small piece of 3.5 od exhaust pipe from an  auto parts store?  If so, main chain like autozone, oreilly etc.?

Not to highjack as posted about this with my own post, but have you experienced any issues with the size of the inlet port?  I ask as the port looks to be approx. 7.5 sq inches and according to the calculator it needs more like 15.  At least on the 20 x 40 cook chamber one sold at Lowes. 
 
 
OP-  nice mods! 

I used high temp silicone to seal my doors.  Wiped it down on the flange area good with brake clean and then followed up with non ammonia window cleaner.  Then I cut the tip fine on the silicone and used it to seal the edge gaps where the main body meets the door flange.  Did the old wipe around with the finger deal to make sure it was pushed in there well.  Then ran a bead around the door opening on the flange and placed plastic wrap I'd sprayed with PAM over.  Laid it so that it only rested on the outer edge of the cook chamber and the top of the silicone bead.  Did not want to get PAM on the flange.  Then carefully closed the door and left it.

Now just have one tiny wisp on one edge.  I'll either re silicone or perhaps consider latches to suck the door down even tighter. 

One tip, although you need to be careful doing this, I found worked nicely to start with on my firebox door was to hammer and dolly the flange so they fit well.  Was not welded on well at all on my pit.  Had gaps between the pit and the flange.  Did not take a lot of work to get the flange gaps between the box and it much tighter.

Question on the chimney.  Did you just pic up a small piece of 3.5 od exhaust pipe from an  auto parts store?  If so, main chain like autozone, oreilly etc.?

Not to highjack as posted about this with my own post, but have you experienced any issues with the size of the inlet port?  I ask as the port looks to be approx. 7.5 sq inches and according to the calculator it needs more like 15.  At least on the 20 x 40 cook chamber one sold at Lowes. 
I used a 3" elbow for HVAC duct, I picked it up at home depot for 3 bucks. Works great
 
Thanks for the post Smokey Bruin. 

I've not looked at the HVAC stuff.  Been trying to find exhaust tube at the auto parts store and seems all they have is too small.  All the muffler shops I have around me are never open when I'm able to get to them.  Really don't know how they stay in business!

I've never used HVAC stuff for anything.  What is it made from?  I'd imagine it would hold up to the heat in the smoker no problem, but wondered if it was all galvanized stuff or if it is standard sheet metal.

Thanks again for the post.
 
There's some good stuff here..  What did you use for sealant on your firebox?  And did you apply it before or after you had the two halves together?  I have a significant gap on part of my firebox and I'm looking to remedy that..

Also, if I've already seasoned it, is it fine to apply the sealers and gaskets after the fact and just run another burn in it?

EDIT:  Sorry, I now see much of it explained above.  I didn't realize there were two pages at first..  Thanks for the info guys.
 
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