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Discussion in 'Reverse Flow' started by nick v, Nov 22, 2013.
Thanks guys. The only issue I am having is my cc door isn't sitting perfectly flush in one of the bottom corners. Should I make a little latch system to pull the door down tight or will it matter that much? I was going to install a gasket around the door but I don't think I can put one across the top of the door and it still shut. I didn't leave a gap at my hinges like I should've I guess so I'm kind of swimming backwards here. Thanks again.
I've had reasonable success with warping metal back by running a few really big hot beads on the side I wanted to warp the metal towards. So in your case, the inside of the door.
Any air leak creates a problem.... Uniform air/heat flow will be compromised.... these smokers need to be air tight for good control...
There are several methods for straightening a door... Place a piece of metal under the door edge ( maybe a 1/4" thick piece ) where it last contacts the CC... that will elevate the bottom edge.... with a binder wrapped around the CC and door, tighten the binder and pull the door closed JUST A LITTLE.... release and check... It is very easy to OVER adjust the problem.... To hold the piece of metal in place, tack weld it... then all you have to do is grind off the berry... Re adjust the piece of metal as necessary until the tweaking seals the door....
Now, did the door fit properly prior to installing the hinges and door seals.... If so, there is a problem with those installs... check for welds that interfere with the closure... Be sure to inspect everything before you start pulling on stuff and creating a bigger problem......
It warped a little when I cut it. The door isn't off very far and I can push it down by hand to seal it. I tried putting a block under one edge and pushing the high corner down but this didn't do anything. If you look at my door you can see those fins on there and they keep it pretty sturdy. I could probably heat and bend a little but didn't want to have to do that if it wasn't that critical.
If you can push it down, in another thread, there are pictures of cam clamps that were used to hold the door closed.... I would go with that solution.... Over time, the heat in the CC may relieve the stress and the door may rest in a sealed position..... If I find that picture, or if someone reading this, knows of what I am speaking, please post the location here......
Is this it?
You just beat me to it!
Thats not the one I saw but that's a good one too. The one I saw was just a rod that pivoted and pushed it down as you turned it.
Nick... I had the same problem with my door and it was due to the amount of heat I put on my hinges. Once I cut them loose and rewelded the problem was solve. Thats a good looking build you doing.
Thanks Alaska. I just removed my door tonight and plan on doing some straightening to the cc. The top where the hinges mount is sagging and the bottom door opening lip was bowed inward some. Hopefully when I get some bracing in there and reinstall the door it will be okay. I think my door is staying pretty rigid because I have a lot of bracing on it but my thin cook chamber is lacking the support it needs. By the time I'm finished it gonna weigh a ton. I might have to rethink the method of moving it. I was originally going to just lift it on the cc end and push it like a wheel barrow but this thing is getting heavy and I haven't even installed the rf plate or the cooking grate.
"I might have to rethink the method of moving it. I was originally going to just lift it on the cc end and push it like a wheel barrow but this thing is getting heavy"
Could move the wheels to the inside edge of the FB or even weld some heavy angle on CC side of FB to weld wheels to. Center the weight up. I push my 250 LP tank around the garage when using.
I thought about that but wasn't sure how much it would help. I'll probably give that a shot before I get too drastic. Thanks maple.
Nick, Good looking build you've got going on here. Moving the wheel axle inward will give you more balance on the weight. Think of the axle being the pivot point on a lever (fulcrum). I considered the weight of my FB and the weight of the cook chamber and placed my axle inward toward the CC. No calculation here just a WAG of where to locate the axle. I just welded it all up in one piece and I can easily move it around. (it feels like about a 20lb lift ). If you add a handle or shelf (added length) then the lift weight will be lessened even more.
Like your smoke stack plenum, I happen to be doing that step in my build...so mine might look a bit like yours.
Keep up the work...I see TBS in your future.
Thanks radio guy. Pardon my ignorance but what is TBS?
Got a little more done today. The top cc support isn't my favorite thing about this smoker but it will suffice. I put my removable rf plate in and added some handles. Since it is removable do you think I will need a drain in it or can I do without if I take it out and clean it after every use?
I'll try to post pics later. For some reason it won't let me do it!
TBS= Thin Blue Smoke the color you get when you have a perfect burn going.
Do you think you can get a drain in there without too much trouble? Pork and beef wouldn't be too bad but if you are going to do chicken and turkey, they tend to put more juice on the plate.
The drain wouldn't be a problem. My problem is that my plate is flat so it won't necessarily flow to the drain. I was going to put a valve in the bottom of the cc so I can remove the rf plate and clean out the belly real good. I have a bridge in my FB to cc opening so grease shouldn't flow into my FB.
Still not letting me embed images!