My First Reverse Flow Build - 125-Gallon Propane Tank (Plenty of Pics)

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The first burn went pretty well. I kept the chamber from getting over 600-degrees by moving the fire from side to side. The only issue I had was the cook chamber door hinges got tight when this dude was hot. Once it cooled down to 400-degrees or so, they loosened right back up. This is about what I expected. I did a little testing with the firebox. I closed the lid and the fire went out. Perfect! Once cool, tomorrow AM, I'll wash everything out and continue on.

A few pics...



 
The burn out fire burned down, so I washed out the interior & trued up the legs (one was a little long). I found a little tweak is needed on the cook chamber door. It still closes tight, but rubs just a bit. Just a little touch with the grinder and all will be good to go.  I am ready to begin with the air inlet and dampener in the morning.
 
I did the air inlet work with the pit laying on its back. It is cut in between the legs, up under the cook chamber.

I haven't finished with the control handle mount, yet...


This is a look at the dampener with the handle welded up...


I added a little expanded metal to keep any burning stuff on the inside of the firebox...


And a back side view of the dampener...


And mounted in place, closed...


Half open, or half closed. I guess it is up to you. Glass half full or half empty. I dunno...


And wide open...


And a look from inside the fire box...

 
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I like that one. I may have to borrow it....... 
biggrin.gif
 
That's a great damper.. but I do have worries tho... What I'm seeing is, the fresh, cold air will go straight up into the cook chamber and not across the fire... I'm thinking the intake should be at the other end of the firebox... Am I missing something here ?
 
Old #7,

You are correct!!!!   You didn't miss anything.

This is my defense...

My fire basket (expanded metal) will be snugged up against this flat firebox wall anyway, and I am thinking the cold air will have to enter the firebox where the fire will be. I really did this by design (due to where this thing will live when it gets moved to the trailer with 2 other smokers) against the advice of others, and I realize that I'm gonna have to pay the fiddler and admit that I screwed up if it don't work. We will see just what happens. I welcome all points of view AND I thank you all for them. The smoker should be complete in 1 1/2 - 2 weeks. If it doesn't draft as it should, I will cut her apart yet again and admit my ignorance. Heck, I have built most of this smoker more than once from not listening and learning along the way...
 
Great build so far. On the air intake issue, maybe a plate under the basket. Kind of like a reverse flow plate. Run it back far enough to allow the air flow to curve up and into and across the fire. Don't know if this would work, but sounds good on paper.
 
I've always built my fireboxes with two air inlets, One going across the fire ( controls smoke) , the other coming up through the grate (controls heat). I see a lot of the comercial pits try to use one dampner that does both, but if you take the time to add a pie style vent to the bottom of the fire box, I dont think you would be sorry.  

Just my two cents on the firebox,  but the smoker is turning out nice, great job. 
 
Bluffton, morning... When welding in the RF plate, consider this....  If it is a fairly tight fit, tack it in place... maybe a 1" stitch every 6-8" or so....  I don't see the need for a full seam weld.. It is only an air seal and nothing structural... will also allow stuff to move a bit...  it you find an objectionable gap, you can always fill it with weld....  That will save time and money...   Dave
 
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I do believe I just scored an air tank 18" diameter and 48" long. The next one is on it's way. We will see how this one cooks and I will go from there... Don't know the wall thickness, but he said it was plenty heavy.
 
Thanks all,

I got the RF plate welded in place. Wasn't THAT fun? I have a hard time seeing while welding. And I'm using a #10 lens. And welding in the hole wasn't pretty. I finally lit it up with a portable halogen work light, BUT I did't do this 'til my last 15" or so of weld. The first 110" or so ain't pretty. I'm thinking of grinding it down and dressing the welds to save myself the shame. I got buddies that can really lay down a bead. And they will be out to the lake this weekend. (Lynne, I did my best, bud) I don't have any pics yet. I'll post 'em in the AM.
 
if im having a hard time seeing the joint, sometimes I switch to using stick, I can feel the joint with the rod and know where I am at. Plus your hand and nozzle are not blocking your vew in the tight areas.

Just a suggestion.
 
Yeah, I didn't remember having this much trouble when I burned sticks. My arc machine got stolen out of the back of my truck 5 years ago. This is my first project since buying this wire feed. A different animal, for sure. I like it, just haven't gotten used to it yet. Running a light OR in direct sunlight, I can make extended long burns. But when welding in the dark, I burn for 2-3", inspect, brush, weld 2-3", inspect, brush, weld....  Well you get the picture. BTW,I like the Avatar.
 
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