I was going to build a heat shield over the whole thing out of aluminum at work to keep the junk out. Any reason not to use aluminum? I can get that free!
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"Mini Smokehouse" (gathering parts)
- Thread starter JckDanls 07
- Start date
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black
Smoking Fanatic
Flame may still be a little starved or oxygen, or it could be junk in the pipe or dust in the air. If you drill it out to much, just use some high temp aluminized foil tape to start covering part of the holes back up (or make an adjustable air shutter)
Get some scrap 1/4" or 3/8" steel plate, spray it with 2000* engine paint and put it directly over the flame (flames pointed up). It would work like the Holland Grill then.
Get some scrap 1/4" or 3/8" steel plate, spray it with 2000* engine paint and put it directly over the flame (flames pointed up). It would work like the Holland Grill then.
orlandosmoking
Smoking Fanatic
Here's my thinking...... Flame up.... won't transfer heat to the pipe...... Flame down.... the pipe is directly in the flame and getting hot.... Don't know how much heat transfer there will be to the wood.... The temps of propane, methane flames is about 3500 deg F..... Just so you know...
ok.. so i found out what to much air will do... it doesn't change the color of the flame any.. still blue.. what it does do is blows to hard threw the slots when you just barely, and i mean just barely, turn up the gas... so turned down really low is ok.. but after that it blows to hard out the slots... pretty much blows the flame out...
No Dave.. I just ran a 7/16th die down it and made a new cap with a 7/16th threaded hole.. it's a little loose to start but tightens up good enough...
I also thought about welding a flat piece of 1/4" plate on the end of a 2" nipple and making the kidney shaped vents and using the kidney shaped shutter to control the air... use reducers on the other end of the 2" nipple to get down to the 1" pipe
and that's a VERY GOOD possibility.. I searched for others.. although not very thorough.. I wasn't finding anything with the 1/2" fitting for the hose that had a smaller orifice... if you search and find something.. let me know...
I will let you know if I do.
I'm going to play around with a bigger end cap first and then I might just wait til I get the house built to see what kind of temps I get inside and then go from there. I'm thinking bench testing is good but the real test will be how it performs inside the house.
I'm going to play around with a bigger end cap first and then I might just wait til I get the house built to see what kind of temps I get inside and then go from there. I'm thinking bench testing is good but the real test will be how it performs inside the house.
Ding Ding Ding.......
Just a heads up. I made a few air fuel mixers out of pipe reducers like a kidney plate and they were not as efficient like the pipe caps are and the flames would easily blow out. The pipe burner should be placed upside down so the flame will wrap around the pipe and heat the pipe and also keep the drippings and trash from getting in. The burner will need to be cleaned once in a while. You can place a heat sheild over the to if you wish
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Thought you were building a pipe burner... not a flame thrower............ok.. so here's the burner with the new end cap... results are much better
this is on low with the slits facing up
this is on med- high
now I turned the burner over with slits on the bottom...
Low
med- high
the last pic shows a hint of yellow... that's why I'm thinking maybe another smaller air hole or two in between the main air holes...
Keith, I tried a bigger end cap today and still ended up with 8 holes and the same results. I think the orifice is too big so I decided to make it smaller. I covered it with JB Kwik and as it was drying I stuck a pin in it. First I tried a pin that was .035 in and it was better but still couldn't turn it up much so I tried again with a .020 in pin and it was a perfect blue flame but it didn't change from low to wide open so I wallowed it out a bit and it seems to be working very good. I'm guessing the hole is .025 - ,028 in. I have some good adjustability with a nice blue flame. Now to see how it works in the house, if the weather will ever cooperate!
Turned way down low:
Needle valve open almost half a turn:
Turned way down low:
Needle valve open almost half a turn:
Dave... I think I'm gonna try a smaller regulator and see what happens... thinking the 10psi may be to much... especially in my case with a smaller smoke house...
I tried the reg I use with my GOSM today, I don't know what pressure it is, and I could barely get a flame with the needle wide open. I think I have a longer pipe then you though and my slits start 16" from the orifice.
I found a place that has a 90* fitting that has the correct threads and they can make any size orifice you want.
http://www.tejassmokers.com/products/brassfittings.htm#orifices
It's part# 49-6A-61.....almost all the way to the bottom of the page.
cool.. are you wanting the 90` ?... the one right below it # 48-6A-61 is the straight one like we have now... what size orifice are you thinking of getting ?
Guess I missed that, I just glanced at it and thought it was a different thread.
I kinda like the 90* because my pipe is already going to stick out 4" from the house so that would keep the hose from sticking out further.
Right now I'm just going to wait til I get the house built. I like the way it's burning right now and need to see how it will work in the house, I'm sure I will have to tweak it once I get it all done. My little epoxy mod probably won't last and I like the 90* and I'm a sucker for free shipping!
I kinda like the 90* because my pipe is already going to stick out 4" from the house so that would keep the hose from sticking out further.
Right now I'm just going to wait til I get the house built. I like the way it's burning right now and need to see how it will work in the house, I'm sure I will have to tweak it once I get it all done. My little epoxy mod probably won't last and I like the 90* and I'm a sucker for free shipping!
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