MES 30" not working after replacing element - help!

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Walta,

      Have you checked the, "Temperature Control Switch Thermostat", my heating element and the TCST went out at the same time.

This device is located inside in the small metal box attached high on the back of the unit, it is about the size of a dime with two contact points, the switch is a "Normally Closed" device.

The switch will open up if the temperature gets over about 300deg. in the unit. It is a one shot switch, once open it stays open!

    With your multi-meter you can check the TCST device, you should get continuity through this device, if not then it is bad. 

    I had the same issue on my unit, I replaced it with one I bought from Amazon, look for a "KSD301", 301 is the degrees Fahrenheit where the device will open.

Make sure your contact points on this device are in good shape, if they look rusty I recommend replacing the contacts with heavy duty contacts also.

How this helps!

John
 
Hey thanks for the input! Can you confirm your model is a 20070910? I ask because that temp switch thermostat isnt in a little box in my smoker, it just sitting there by itself, against the wall, near the upper left corner.

I suspected it when I first had this problem, but when I plug in the smoker, it registers the correct temp outside, so I figured it was ok. Is it still possible it is bad if it can accurately tell me what the temp outside is?

If I need to get that part, its cheap on amazon, thanks!  Is it hard to get out? or do you just unplug it , and plug the new one in?
 
My MES 30 model # 20070411, on my unit the temp switch is covered by a small little metal box on the back of unit. 

From the front inside of the unit you can see the "Face" of the temp unit with the two screws that hold it in place, it is High on the Right side.

You access the device by taking off the back of the MES smoker then you must remove two screws that hold the small metal box in place, then you will see the Temp Device and it two screws.

    You will see two black wires going to the temp unit, if the temp unit has operated, sorta like a fuse, the element will not work!

I suggest unplugging the temp device so you can check it's continuity, it is a normally closed device......
 
 
Hey thanks for the input! Can you confirm your model is a 20070910? I ask because that temp switch thermostat isnt in a little box in my smoker, it just sitting there by itself, against the wall, near the upper left corner.

I suspected it when I first had this problem, but when I plug in the smoker, it registers the correct temp outside, so I figured it was ok. Is it still possible it is bad if it can accurately tell me what the temp outside is?

If I need to get that part, its cheap on amazon, thanks!  Is it hard to get out? or do you just unplug it , and plug the new one in?
 
My MES 30 model # 20070411, on my unit the temp switch is covered by a small little metal box on the back of unit. 

From the front inside of the unit you can see the "Face" of the temp unit with the two screws that hold it in place, it is High on the Right side.

You access the device by taking off the back of the MES smoker then you must remove two screws that hold the small metal box in place, then you will see the Temp Device and it two screws.

    You will see two black wires going to the temp unit, if the temp unit has operated, sorta like a fuse, the element will not work!

I suggest unplugging the temp device so you can check it's continuity, it is a normally closed device......
 Hi, TexasCoast's unit is a 411 It is set up the same , But mine is a 20070910. It is the same as yours and is in the same place as the 411. I looked at your picture and the box is not really as box but a metal cover . The one on the right side several inches from the center. It doe's have 2 black wires running to it One is the hot wire from the controller and the other goes directly to the element .

This device has nothing to do with the temperature control That is the other little probe you see from the inside.It is closer to center. By the way that needs to be cleaned regularly. The first switch simply cuts the current off if the box over heats.
 
Understand about KSD301 Device not affecting the internal temp. I was just stating that my MES went out completely when the KSD301 failed.

   I do a very simply clean around and on the Temp Probe you are talking about maybe once every three smokes or so...

   I upgraded the MES wiring to high temp and heaver gauge wire, this was based on someone else suggestion in the Forum.

I also used "Non Lead Solder" to solder the Heating Element wire contacts and the KSD301 wire contacts.

I put Spark Plug High Temp Boot grease on all wiring connection on the bottom of the unit while I was upgrading.

Not sure but these adjustments seemed to make the MES more "Stable" when I use it!.

Can you get a replacement for the MES Temp Probe?
 
So it was nice out on Sunday, I drilled out the little box on the bottom of the smoker, but it looks fine:


I think the only thing I havent checked is the little box on the back of the smoker, to the right. I think someone in this thread said something about a fuse in there that might be blown.. Any suggestions?
 
Hey Husker3in4,

     I had the same problem when I replaced my heating element, the unit would not work!

I started trouble shooting by taking off the back of the unit and checking the wiring and all connections.

That is when I discovered the second problem.

On the back of the unit there is a small metal box that contains a "Temperature Control SwitchThermostat", it is a safety device which opens up if the unit get too hot.

Once the device operates it will not reengage, so I think of it as a safety fuse, it will need to be replaced.

    You can test it with a multimeter, unplug both wires that are hooked to it then check it for continuity with your meter.

The device is Normally Closed (NC).

   The device is called a KSD301, the 301 stands for the degree temperature where it will open.

   I ordered a replacement from Amazon, got 5 of them for under $10.

Amazon part #
[h1]5 Pcs KSD301 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat 150 Celsius N.C.[/h1]
   When you replace the Device make sure to check your wiring and the wiring connectors.

I upgraded my wiring and replaced the wiring connectors, I also soldered the wiring connectors onto the wiring and the devices like the element and the KSD301 just to make a better electrical connection! The wiring upgrade seemed to help keep the temperature more constant.....

I used Lead Free solder for this work!

Hope this helps!

Let me know if you have any more questions!

John
 
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Thanks for the heads up. Since all the wires look fine, I can only assume the problem is with the thermostat as you described. I found the ones on Amazon you posted, but I don't have amazon prime, so I found it cheaper on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381276462844

$7.50 delivered (would have been almost $12 on amazon with shipping). They look the same as the ones on amazon and are made by the same company. If I am simply replacing the thermostat, will I need to solder anything?
 
Husker3in4,

    No, you do not need to solder the Thermostat, but make sure you check the wire connectors are still good.

My connectors looked rusted so I replaced them, that is when I decided to upgrade the wiring and wiring connectors.

   The Solder just makes a better electrical connection that will makes the unit work better.

  Just my two cents on using solder on the wiring connectors:)

Have you checked the existing Thermostat, if it is bad it should show open on your multimeter! 

John
 
 
sounds like a job for sparky !   I bet a lot of guys here have no idea what a multi meter is or how it works.  w Will be glad to help  direct email is   [email protected]
I might take you up on that. I've had a multimeter for about 4-5 years and all I can really do successfully is test the juice left in alkaline batteries. I've had mixed success in testing light and power switches or finding shorts in electrical stuff like ceiling lights.
 
WA0AUU,

      Sounds like you need a Round Trip:)

      I've been using a multimeter since I was a kid, forget others may not have had that kind of fun growing up:)

     Have fun on you road trip, just don't forget your Multimeter:)
 
SIr: THANK  YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE !  I was Navy for 25 years, now  please give me what information you have, have you double checked the connections ?     Have you plugged something else into that outlet to be sure the outlet is working ?, checked the breaker ? ( or fuse)     you may email me direct at   [email protected]   tell me what you have done    do you have an ohm meter and can you use it, if so remove all wires from the back of the new heating element and check the resistance end to end, it should be around 6 ohm because Ohms law tells us that resistance is volts divided by the current.  I think the label says  it is 15 amps and we know the volts is 110 so 110 divided by 15 is darn close to 6 ohms, I have seen new heating elements be bad, i had one on our smoker when it was new !  IF you can use the ohm meter, check the resistance from one end of the heating element to the metal box, do that on both ends of the heating element, there should not be any reading   let me know what you did and what you found

nothing like long distance trouble shooting !

The FCC has changed my ham radio call, long story but turns out they gave me the wrong call the first time I upgraded, I am now WØAUU   they dropped the first A
 
sorry cant help ya out.

My 40" went out last week, control board and element. Masterbuilt is stumped at both going out but want $300 to replace everything....Nope

Not even a year old yet.
 
So i got the Temperature Control Switch and installed it, but the problem is, it wont stay all the way out. It is screwed in on the backside, but the top of it keeps pushing back thru the back of the smoker. it is sitting flush against the smoker wall now, is that ok?

Secondly, I cant remember where the ground wire goes. I know it goes on the screw in the center of the heating element, but I dont remember where the wire runs.. like how it runs from the bottom to the heating element? Can one of you take the backplate off (where the wires plug into the element) so I can see if it plugs in on the outside of the metal shield, or on the inside? Or can someone advise?
 
Husker3in4,

    I know exactly what you are talking about with the Temperature Control Switch (TCS) not staying inside of the smoker housing unit,

I had the same issue.

     I used some "J-B Weld" to "Cold Weld" the Temp Unit Part and its Flange part in the position I needed. Then I just reinstalled the TCS in the unit!

You will need to remove the TCS and apply the JB Weld, let it dry 24hrs then but it back in place.

  J-B Weld is a two part two-part epoxy  "Cold Weld" material that can be used on high temp engine blocks so it will work on the smoker, I know I am using it!

You can get it at most hardware or auto parts stores.

Your Ground wire question:

   One end of my ground wire attaches to the back plate the other end goes thru a hole to the inside of the unit and attaches to the ground wire of the units power cable.

Note:

    I have learned to take several pictures with my phone before I disconnect anything, I can then use the picture later to verify my reinstall!

Hope this helps!

John
 
Thanks for your help! I usually do take pics and/or video when I take something apart, but this seemed easy to remember since there aren't many parts. Problem is, I took it apart last february! I remember generally how it goes back together, just that pesky ground wire!

So I found the JB weld on walmarts website, there seems to be a red tube and a black tube, which tube do i use for this process? Also, does it make a difference if I use the JB Quick (assuming that means it dries quicker).

Ive taken some pics that I will attach.

This is the view from inside the smoker, looking at the temp control switch that seems to want to lay flush with the back wall instead of sticking out like it should:


*******

Here is the view of the heating element screwed in. I think I  have the screws going in the right direction:


*******

Here is the view from the back, you can see the ground wire coming up, and I have it wedged under the rubber attachment:


********

Close up of that same view, you can see how I had to turn the connector sideways, otherwise the screws to hold the element dont go in tightly.


A couple of things, the ground wire is a bit frayed, can I just tape it up with electrical tape? or do I need to even worry about it? The wire itself looks fine.

I think it got frayed from the metal cover that goes over the element connections, it pinches right at that spot. Or am i doing it wrong?
 
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