Masterbuilt heating element replacement????

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I ran a cord from inside the house out to the smoker. It seems to work fine now since it's not on a GFI circuit. It's really strange because I had used that GFI circuit several times before with the same smoker. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
I was having the same issue with my gfci, after talking to an electrician he suggested I replace the gfci since after it trips a couple times makes it a ot easier to trip. Replaced it and haven' had any issues since.
 
I was having the same issue with my gfci, after talking to an electrician he suggested I replace the gfci since after it trips a couple times makes it a ot easier to trip. Replaced it and haven' had any issues since.
At what point do you replace the gfci because it's faulty? Anyone know of a device to test the gfci?
-Kurt
 
GFIRT01_outlet_tester_ideal-01.jpg
 
I am replacing the heater element right now. It's a rusty mess in mine. I have no idea which wire goes where. Does it matter. I know where the ground went and have that one straight.
 
No difference... either wire, either end of the heating element... Clean the ends well, use fine sandpaper to clean off the corrosion... New wire ends or solder the wires directly to the element lugs, that will prevent lousy contact... don't worry about the element melting the solder, the ends do not get hot... The heat comes from resistance... no resistance in the first 1/2" of the element.. or not enough to get to ... "Solder is a metal alloy that is fusible. The kind typically used in electrical soldering melts at 370 degrees Fahrenheit..."
 
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Thx. I thought that it wouldn’t matter. I wired, new connections. Fired it up. Will be smoking again this week.
I have that whole problem with the GFCI too. Do I replace the outlet or the breaker?


No difference... either wire, either end of the heating element... Clean the ends well, use fine sandpaper to clean off the corrosion... New wire ends or solder the wires directly to the element lugs, that will prevent lousy contact... don't worry about the element melting the solder, the ends do not get hot... The heat comes from resistance... no resistance in the first 1/2" of the element.. or not enough to get to ... "Solder is a metal alloy that is fusible. The kind typically used in electrical soldering melts at 370 degrees Fahrenheit..."
x
 
So I replaced on of my connctors and fired her up and started just fine. Until the other one started smoking. Unplugged it and took of the other one to replace, only problem is the end to plug it into is completely gone now. Any chance of replacing it or do I need to buy a new smoker?
 
With a pair of pliers or side cutters, try to crumble the "cal-rod" coating to expose a section of the resistance wire.. then solder the electric wire to it... clean it well with sand paper first.. use soldering paste... should work.. If solder doesn't work, crimp a butt connector or spade lug to the wire...
 
It's the best... Removes the possibility of a loose or corroded connection, which cause the problem in the first place... If you get a small soldering iron, clean the tip, coat the newly cleaned tip by adding solder to a hot tip, then lightly wipe with a wet/damp paper tower.. do the same to the resistance wire inside the element... that process is called "tinning".. then put the two wires together and solder.... then cover with some high temp electrical tape... I use fiberglass electrical tape... wrap the solder joint well, and you are golden... probably forever... my fixed elec. joint's been running for 6 years... .
Cleaning the wire ends with sand paper is a big deal so, take care to clean them well first... when tinning, the ends should take the solder well... that's a sign they are clean... then the solder will take well.. the solder should be shiny.. shine like a "diamond in a goats butt"....
 
It's the best... Removes the possibility of a loose or corroded connection, which cause the problem in the first place... If you get a small soldering iron, clean the tip, coat the newly cleaned tip by adding solder to a hot tip, then lightly wipe with a wet/damp paper tower.. do the same to the resistance wire inside the element... that process is called "tinning".. then put the two wires together and solder.... then cover with some high temp electrical tape... I use fiberglass electrical tape... wrap the solder joint well, and you are golden... probably forever... my fixed elec. joint's been running for 6 years... .
Cleaning the wire ends with sand paper is a big deal so, take care to clean them well first... when tinning, the ends should take the solder well... that's a sign they are clean... then the solder will take well.. the solder should be shiny.. shine like a "diamond in a goats butt"....
Ok so I got a solder gun and here is my first attempt at soldering. The connections feel pretty good and it appears to be working ok. Now should I put electrical tape around it all before I close her up?
 

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Yep... you need to PREVENT the wires from coming in contact with any part of the smoker... solder joint looks good...
 
Dave, additional info that may help for burned off element wire repairs. I repaired commercial kitchen equipment for 20 years. I fully agree with your advice, solder the terminals and wrap with fiberglass tape. The only thing I would add is to use stainless steel terminals as they are designed for hi temp applications like this. The only problem that may cause is difficulty in soldering stainless to copper.
 
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