Master Built Pro 2 Door Smoker Propane Needle valve install, cast iron skillet for wood chunks, door

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lonestarmedic

Smoke Blower
Original poster
Mar 9, 2015
77
16
Kind of a recap for those who have considered how to lower chamber temperatures , hold in the smoke, and get a longer wood burn.

I installed a valve using adapter fittings to join a 1/4" NPT valve to a #6 SAE flare fitting. Made a cast iron chunk pan using a chinese cast iron 10" skillet and carriage bolts for legs. And sealed the doors with some nomex 1/8" thick gasketing. This smoker is my main go to for small batches. I use the big PS4400 for large loads.






 
I am heading to Home Depot later today to purchase the additional parts.  Should be an easy tweak.  Thanks for the info!
 
i bought some parts at HD but didnt hook up bc im not sure if they are the correct parts.  Did you buy any other parts other than the 1/4 NPT and #6 SAE flare (assuming 1/4 male on each end too)?  I buying off amazon now.

Thanks for all the help.  My temp is still running high.  I realized too my unit doesnt have sidevents either
 
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I've been reading about these needle valves. Where do you get them? My main concern is that looking at my lowest flame, how much lower can I go without worrying about "blow outs"? I have nomex seals on the doors, and just leaving the door set open a little keeps the temp at roughly 240.
 
The bbq store here sold me a ball valve and said it would work. Do you think it will work as good as a needle valve?
 
The bbq store here sold me a ball valve and said it would work. Do you think it will work as good as a needle valve?
Not at ALL!! Ball valve is meant as an on-off device. Needle valve is for adjustments. You can get there with a

ball valve, but a very small movement makes a very big adjustment.
 
Not at ALL!! Ball valve is meant as an on-off device. Needle valve is for adjustments. You can get there with a
ball valve, but a very small movement makes a very big adjustment.

I agree. It will work in a pinch, but VERY tuff to adjust. I was doing some chickens, and my needle valve didn't arrive on time. I installed a gas shutoff valve in a pinch. The tiniest adjustment on the valve made a big difference in the flame. I was constantly adjusting to keep temps steady.
I swapped it out as soon as my needle valve arrived. Very easy to keep temps where I need them.
 
I open tank about an eighth of a turn then burner on high to light. Keeps the excess flow valve from triggering. Then I open tank about a half turn or so. Adjust main burner valve to low. Then I start using the needle valve. So I tune the smoker control with the needle valve. Has been working well this way on both my smokers for about a year now. Needle valve takes about 3 turns or so from wide open to start effecting the gas flow to the smoker.
 
I have not done a thing but put a cast iron pan for wood chunks and played with the top vent and I'm holding at 235 and I'm doing a 15 pound prime rib and auju in my smoker
 
Has anyone tried using an adjustable regulator like this instead of the needle valve? What are the pros/cons?
Gas One 4FT High Pressure Propane 0-20 PSI Adjustable Regulator with 4ft QCC-1 type Hose - CSA Certified - Works With Newer U.S. Propane Tanks
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Froman, should work the same. $20 regulator, or $5 needle valve. They do the same thing on my brew equipment - I use needle valves for my hard piped multi burner stand, and a similar regulator for single burner set up.
 
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Love those mods! How did you install those carriage bolts in the skillet? Did you drill through iron (and how)?
 
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