Im pulling my hair out!

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

brokenwing

Meat Mopper
Original poster
SMF Premier Member
Mar 30, 2010
258
27
Northern Maryland
This uds has been almost complete for 2 weeks, but the lid mod is kicking my butt.  I could not get a webber, so i found a uniflame on craiglsit.  I cut the flange off, put some stove gasket around it and cemented it in place with the cement provided.  When i go to bolt the darn thing up, i get a gap in some places.  Could i use automotive high temp rtv selaent to fill the gaps. Dont want to take out the family

b9364171_lidmodification.jpg
 
I know a lot of folks use the high temp stuff they sell at fireplace stores for attaching the door gaskets.
 
no its just that lid is has a smaller diamter then the barell about a 1/4 inch i filled it in nicely with stove gasket but still have a little space
 
The high temp RTV will be plenty safe unless you try to grill with the lid off and make 4 foot jet engine flames like I did a while back.

I have had good luck with using blue paint tape over the RTV to shape it the way I like, then let it dry good and peal the tape off.
 
busted thing? thats broken wing rofl.  Im gonna run up to ace and get some stove gasket cement to fill in the opening fire it up and make a fatty i will have pictures within the next few days, and report on how this baby does.
 
Not sure how far along you are with the fix, but there is a definite difference between stove cement and the RTV silicon. I have not personally used the cement but my buddies say that they have not had much luck with it sticking to bare steel. It does set up rather hard like cement.

Good luck and let us know what happens.
 
Hey tom ya i have not had a chance to work much on it, been busy.  I went up to ace hardware and got some rutland stove cement.  I will let you know how it goes. I was trying to decide between that and rtv sealent, I will let you know how it goes.
 
OK update I'm def a carpenter but when it comes to metal work, fail lol.  I bolted the kettle lid mod in place, and lit it off for a test run.  I tried it with out putting cement around the few gaps I had cause it looked like the lid had a decent fit.  Lit it off, and seasoned it, with the temps reaching 330 degrees.  Then I started to back it off.  With one ball valve, and one nipple cap off i could still not hold a temp.  I was struggling to keep 200 degrees.  So two thoughts come to mind.  One the gap and some bolt holes in the lid is causing me to lose to much heat, or second of all I'm not building the fire correctly since I'm a newb to charcoal.  I filled the basket, lit 8 coals and put it in the center, and let her go.  This evening all my coals on the outside were unburned.  So either i try to fix the problem, or I'm going to remove the lid mod, weld the holes shut and go to a flat lid.  I'm so irritated.
 
I am guessing you are using briquettes?

How large is the basket?  Around and tall?

How far off the bottom of the drum is it?

If the gap around the lid is not giant it would probably be all right. You may just have to close the lid vent a tiny bit.

When I light my drums, which one has a 16" by 12" tall basket and the other is only 6" tall. I fill um up and use the weed burner to light one side of the lump coal.

It really sounds like you have a problem with the basket and the coals more so then air sneaking in the lid.

When I light mine I let the temp hit 180 and close one of the two caps. 200 and I close the second cap. If the temp does not rise to 225 then I close the ball valve a tiny bit and take one of the caps back off. Actually one cap off is more airflow then one ball valve open. I did scroll and look at the pic in the first post but its hard to see. Any chance you can post us a few more pics so we can see what you are working with?

Don't give up.

We have the technology to help ya fix it.
 
3" should be good for height and the basket size looks good.

I think before I worked on it to much I would try a load of lump. There is as many of us that light one side vs others that light and load li coals into the cente of the coals.

Maybe try to light it and let it go with the valves all open until 180 then cap one and close the ball valve and see where it settles in with only one cap off.

Remember that it does not take to much movement witht he ball valve to change the temps.
 
busted thing? thats broken wing rofl.  Im gonna run up to ace and get some stove gasket cement to fill in the opening fire it up and make a fatty i will have pictures within the next few days, and report on how this baby does.
BT ya got any pics yet?
 
 
Well I played around today.  I sealed up the space with rutland stove cement, let it cure and fired it off.  Still playing with the dampers.  I was having trouble holding it below 250.  It would jump between 250 and 265.  But it burned for 6 hours at those temps with a quarter of the basket full.  I still have it burning its at 186 degrees, and dying.  So I still have to keep playing with it to get it figured out.  I have used a bag of kingsford almost just playing with it.  Im not giving up yet.
 
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Latest posts

Hot Threads

Clicky