How to "dead-end" a Brick Smoker opening at the top.

[jim williams]

Hey guys and gals building out there.

I am building a brick smoker similar to Wes W. and 2 others that I know of...You here for me Wes??

I will have 3 walls going vertical, -firebrick, cinder and veneer.

The Outside dimensions of the firebrick will be 27.5" wide x 28.5" Deep.  OK?

I do NOT want to step in the brick as a fireplace. (adds 3')

SUGGESTION TO EXPERIENCED BRICK SMOKERS/ ASKING ADVISE REALLY..

I am thinking of putting a 1/2" flat plate half way into the dimension of brick with high heat silicone that goes with these new homes today (lasting a lifetime) along with a heat rope. the weight is approx. 80 lbs. for this slab. Should that do it?

Finish the story, I will have an brick arch, solid face, 2" tall ( 8x8) clay riser on steel and damper opening on plate and the vertical back side.???

Confusing huh?  I can draw it and send it!

Thank you to all of you contributing to this forum!

 

[wes w]

I'm here Jim, but I'm still stumped on this one.  :-)   I've racked my brain for many hours trying to  figure this out.   I really don't have an answer.

If I understand correctly,  the 1/2 in. steal plate will go on top with the hole cut out in the middle. and you will lay the arch on top of it for the cap.  Correct?   I don't see why that wouldn't work.   I must say, your a way better man then I am if you can get the steal up there.  :-)     Best I can tell in my mind, it would look pretty good too.   I'm really looking forward to seeing the arched cap.   I may do my oven like that just on a way smaller scale.  

 

[jim williams]

Thanks wes.

Just the weight itself will do it.
Just thinking heat silicone or mortar the plate.

I will run a row of brick on top of the plate also to incorporate the Arch. Maybe with fire brick around my opening and damper. Verses a piece of clay flue

 

[wes w]

I don't see why that wouldn't work.  I think if you muded ( I know, its not a word)   it in, like you said, the weight would hold it and the mud would seal it.

  You might think about incorporating  some kind of mesh to keep the birds from building a nest in your smoker or on top.   It would also serve kinda like a spark screen too.

 

[jim williams]

I though about a screen tacked on the steel flue.
The back side will be solid wall of steel with some type of door.
I like the mesh idea too but looking to keep weather out if I'm smoking.

Keep it coming wes!

 

[wes w]

I've smoked on some really cold and windy days.  I've never had an issue with down draft.   Even with the simple flue cap I have, it keeps rain and snow out. 

 

[jim williams]

Yes I was thinking a double piece of mesh for a closure but worried about weather when I actually smoke....

Maybe a solid wall with a lift/ or swing door while in use?

 

[wes w]

That would also work, but,  depending on how high you go, it could be a hassle.  The top of my smoker is about 10 ft. up from the firebox floor. 

 

[jim williams]

True. I should be about 9'
May operate by rod somehow also.

 

[jim williams]

Do you think if I mud it in the 400+ Temps could break up the mortar joint tied in with the 1/2" steel?

 

[wes w]

Good evening Jim,

As long as steal can move, it won't crack the joints.    In a fireplace you pad the damper with fiberglass insulation to allow for movement.  It can move without cracking the masonry.  In your case, you have masonry below and above.   It can move without cracking anything.   If you are using 1/2 steal,  it would have to get super hot to even think about moving. 

A lentil in a fireplace opening moves with heat.   When I say moves, I'm talking about maybe 1/64 of an inch, but you can see it in the mortar joints.  When the lentil cools you never know it happened.   A smoker will never get as hot as a fireplace.  I don't see a problem with what you have in mind. 

 

[jim williams]

Awesome. Thanks pal!

 

[jim williams]

Ok Wes and any others!

I am determined to put a 1/2" plate steel with built in damper for the top of my brick smoker.

Wes,

-I thought of putting it on top of the firebrick (mid brick) so I can lay brick to cinder to veneer wall. smart? for rebuild of wall some year??  no.

-Lay 1/2" plate over fire brick and 1-2" of cinder may be better structurally and mortar to adjust levels of brick/block to incorporate?

-difference is 24''x 30" plate to minus 3" both sides, more support through the cinder I think...maybe I think to hard and it gets hard to think...?   I will cut this piece soon, what you guys think?

Reason being for all these silly questions is I bought my steel today and want to pre-fab (steel) in the next couple of months before good weather comes.. DAMN brain...shut off.. lol

Tylenol?        ...Anybody

 

[wes w]

Good morning Jim,

To help carry the steel, bring your firebrick and block and finish brick all to the same height.  Simply mud it all and set your steel.  Everything will be sealed in.   Then you can lay your top on the steel.   Can't wait to see this finished.  Your design sounds really interesting.

 

[jim williams]

Morning wes,
Yes I will bring to same height.
do you think the steel should go over all 3 walls?

I will need some of the veneer brick to tie the arch in. (Brick to brick)

 

[wes w]

If you go over the firebrick and block that would be plenty to carry it.   When you tie the arch into the veneer brick be sure and leave a little room for the steel to move.   1/8th inch would be plenty.