Help with my Air Inlets

Discussion in 'UDS Builds' started by bigdan1122, May 14, 2014.

  1. bigdan1122

    bigdan1122 Newbie

    I have drilled 3/4" holes at the bottom and in the top for my airflow. I'm planning on using 3/4" black pipe 90 degree Street Elbows with plugs, pipes and brass ballcock valves to control the air.

    The problem I'm having is getting them tight into the drum, I have tried to use the electrical box type nuts and they seem to keep slipping, I went to a plumbing supply house looking fro something and they said the black pipe thread design is tapered so you typically can't put nuts on them and draw them done tight to the barrel.

    So how are other getting those tight?

    Thanks Much


    will have to post some pics in next post, getting close to doing a test burn, still needing to make a firebasket, had an idea I took t the welding shop and they wanted over $300 to do it so on to plan B

    Here are a couple of Pics Still need to:  install Handles to lid and barrel, Install Temp gauge, think I might put it on 4 casters, straps for pipes, going to add a little hook to lid so it can hang on lip of Barrel when open , deciding on the fire bin, might give it a name with a stencil or something. I think I'm going to try and solve my problem mentioned above by using a 3/4" long threaded nipple, 2 3/4" couplers and fill in the slack on the inside with the electrical box style nuts I have to tighten it up, will take a Picture, post later and let you all know if it worked.

    Here are a couple of pictures of the coupler Setup I put together for the Air inlets, think I'll only have to use the on the 90's that are holding the pipes and BrassBallCock Valves I did try it on the drum and it will really tighten down.

    Last edited: May 14, 2014
  2. chiefusn

    chiefusn Smoke Blower

    All I used on mine was a 3/4" pipe nipple with a conduit nut on each side (Inside/outside) of the drum. There is a taper to the nipples but as long as you get the nipple centered, the nuts will tighten down just fine with channel locks or. All three intakes are setup like that. One has a 90° elbow for the lift pipe and ball valve, the other 2 are just capped.

  3. On mine I inserted the pipe nipples from the outside with one conduit nut, then one nut on the inside. Then I had a friend hold the nipple on the outside with a pair of channel locks while I pounded the nut tighter on the inside with a flat head and hammer
    Last edited: May 15, 2014
  4. motown-n00b

    motown-n00b Fire Starter

    I too used the same design, pipe nipple and conduit nuts. I put the 90 elbow on the nipple first, then a conduit nut (angled toward the drum so it bites. As you can see they are not exactly flat. Then I threaded the nipple into the hole in the drum until tight enough and the elbow pointed upward. Then I put the conduit nut on the inside again with it biting toward the drum. It's not going to support weight or be overly sturdy but it will be air-tight enough to work. I also used a U-bolt to hold the vertical pipe against the side of the drum so I wouldn't have to worry about the torque of using the ball valves to bend the drum or loosen the nipple/elbow setup. You can get an idea from this pic from my build thread.


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