Hand Crank Meat Grinders

Discussion in 'Sausage' started by hog warden, Mar 30, 2009.

  1. This question may be a little off-topic but how did you clean the tinned grinders--assuming you made them so shiny? The ones I see are very tarnished and rough.
  2. daveomak

    daveomak Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Interesting thread.....  A lot to learn here....      
  3. boykjo

    boykjo Sausage maker Staff Member Moderator Group Lead OTBS Member

  4. roller

    roller Smoking Guru SMF Premier Member

    Yes you can still buy new hand meat grinders..Looks like we need to call you the Hand Grinder Warrden...

    You have done good ...
  5. john costello

    john costello Newbie

    Do you know what parts are supposed to be with the Griswold #4? I have one with 3 plates. Is there supposed to be a cutter blade as well? Also, what do the designators #2, #4, #22, etc., mean? Thanks in advance for your help. You can send me a PM.
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 22, 2013
  6. smithmal

    smithmal Newbie

    Great thread.  I'm a total newb and interested in making my own sausage.  Following the advice of this thread I intend to do the following:

    1.  I'm not sure whether or not homemade sausage making/stuffing is for me, so I shall heed the wise words of others in this thread in go for a manual grinder.

    2.  Also, following the wise words of others on this forum I shall also invest in a half way decent stuffer.

    My weapons of choice would be:

    1.  Weston #22 Tinned Manual Bolt Down Grinder ($38 shipped)

    2.  Eastman Outdoors Jerky and Sausage Maker Gun   ($25 shipped)

    Altogether that would be only $60ish spent which is not too bad if it turns out that sausage making is not for me.

    Quick question on the grinder though....

    1.  As they say, a grinder is only as good as it's blades.  Is Weston considered to be a reputable brand with good blades?  I've noted that Weston sells replacement blades and plates which come in carbon and stainless steel which will allow upgrade/replacement options should I go with this model.

    2.  Is a #22 size too big for doing 10-15 lbs at a clip?  From what I've read, a #32 seems to be way overkill and you almost need a pulley system if you're going to go with a manual grinder.

    3.  I'm thinking that I will design create a quick custom base to bolt the grinder down to so that I have enough height clearance where the meat comes out to add a bowl.  Has anyone done something like this before when using a bolt down grinder?    I'm thinking I could put suction cups on the bottom of the base so that it would be immovable during grinding.  I'm just not sure if I use this, how to un-suction it once it's attached to the counter top.

    Any advice would be much appreciated.


    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 22, 2013
  7. smithmal

    smithmal Newbie

    This is a great question and maybe it deserves it's own thread.  I will say that overall lack of understanding how to restore a meat grinder was one of the major reasons why I am reticent towards purchasing on of the many "antique" grinders that are always floating around on eBay.  Any answers to this from the "Warden" or other members?

    Another thing I'd be wary when purchasing an antique meat grinder is finding necessary replacement parts.  Many of the blades and plates that these antique grinders come with look absolutely gnarley and unsanitary.  Do antique grinders like Universal, Enterprise or Boyertown work with readily available stainless steel blades and plates?

    I've seen some youtube videos of people removing rust from iron cookware using a 50% solution of vinegar as well as scrubbing with table salt and a potato, but I'm not sure this is the best approach for really cleaning the inside of a meat grinder and/or it's various components.

    Tinned meat grinders have most likely  had much of the tinning removed by the time an ebay buyer would get a hold of it.  I know that tinning helps reduce rusting for the interior of the meat grinder, but have no idea how to re-tin it.  I think the modern way now is through electroporation rather than tin baths and there are some online services which can re-tin cookware for you (for a price of course).

    After purchasing, paying for shipping and possibly needing replacement parts it looked to me like the cost of buying an "antique" would be equal to, if not more than, the cost of purchasing a new cast iron grinder (like the one mentioned above) so I'm not sure if the this line of grinder acquisition  is for your typical newb sausage maker vs. an individual who is interested in collectibles.

    That being said, I love the idea of being able to restore an antique meat grinder and get it back into working order as I think it would add an additional layer to the experience of making your own sausage like the "good 'ol days" as well as making it a little more personal if I ever wanted to hand it down to a son/daughter.

    Any advice would be appreciated.


    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2013
  8. staceylseal

    staceylseal Newbie

    I have an Universal #2 grinder, I need to know where to get more attachments like the nut butter grinder and how do I know what the right size is? I also want a sausage stuffer do they make one for this machine? Thanks
  9. I would build a box out of a 2 x 6 about 6 inches high, glue and screw the box together.  I do not yet own a bolt down grinder, but it on my soon to get list, so I have no ides of the size of the bolt down holes, but anyway, I would place it top where needed, mark the holes, then get some plow bolts, these are the ones with a square part of the shaft, just below the head, long enough to go through the 2 x 6 and the base of grinder.  Then use wing nuts to secure it.  You could then rig up a way to mount pans on the box, your good to go at that point. 

    I will post a video of the build, well more likely the finished item.  But that will more than likely be in the late spring, next year
  10. The designators #2, #4, #22 are the throat sizes of the grinder.  Yes a grinder needs plates and a blade to grind meat
  11. westnedge

    westnedge Newbie

    I'm new here, but not new to the Enterprise #12 that I inherited from my parents and grandparents.

    I got it from my dad after my mom passed away - she always made  "Charlotte's Hotdog Relish" by grinding up the ingredients with it.  I've made the relish twice using the #12 like she used to - now I'm ready to make some sausage.

    There is some good info on this thread, but one question I didn't see answered was cleaning and storing the #12 Enterprise.

    I clean it with Dawn, hot water, and scrub brush.  This #12 is pretty old - could be a hundred years old.  Most of the finish is not there anymore.  The last time I stored it, I rubbed it down with olive oil.  When I got it out the other day, I had to clean it with really hot water to get the year-old dried out - tacky olive oil off it.  So, after making applesauce the other day, I just bought some food-grade silicone spray - should I coat it down with that to store it - I don't want it to rust in my Michigan basement.  It didn't rust there this past year - it's just that the oil gets a bit 'gummy' feeling after some time.

    My Question: What about storing with a silicone spray on it?
  12. A great thread with some great tips.

    I have a Universal #3 that I would like to use with a sausage stuffer.  I got the unit from a friend with 3 plates, 1 blade, & a nut.  It looks like there are threads on the throat to accommodate a collar to attach a stuffing tube.  Is anyone familiar with this unit and are parts available for it?  I would need the collar and large & small stuffing tubes. Any help would be appreciated.
  13. daveomak

    daveomak Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Save yourself a big headache and get a vertical stuffer.. they can be found for about $90..... I recommend the 5# stuffer....
  14. unclejoeyv

    unclejoeyv Fire Starter


    Changed my life haha. I got the 5# stuffer from sausage maker. Stuffing went from over an hour to under 5 minutes. Turns out a better final product, too, since the meat doesn't get mushed up when stuffing through a grinder.
  15. Thanks for the replies, but I'm kinda on a month by month budget. That';s why I asked about usin what I had.  I guess I'll hand stuff if I can't find anything for my No. 3
  16. daveomak

    daveomak Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    What ever you were going to spend on the #3, put it toward a vert. stuffer....
  17. I'm not going to buy it, it was given to me
  18. My first post here.

    The Porkert Meat Grinder was (still is???) produced in the Czech Republic and is considered the best manual unit, rated up there with both the Chop-Rite and Enterprise.

    In the hardcopy catalog from AlliedKenco.com, they suggest doing the following when it comes to sausage making and case stuffing with the grinder:

    Always chill the meat to firm but not frozen solid.  Run the meat first thru a spacer (two hole kidney plate with knife).  This will prevent bottlenecks when using the stuffing tube.  Season the chunks. Again chill the meat 'till firm.  Run the firm chunks thru the 3/16 plate with the knife and the stuffing funnel attached.  At this point the chunks, moved by the worm screw, will force the ground meat thru the funnel thus avoiding the bottle neck and resultant slowdown in stuffing.  

    I plan to try this method on my next sausage making adventure. 
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2014
  19. Unfortunately, Porkert stopped making grinders and stuff a few years ago.

  20. bluewhisper

    bluewhisper Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    Hey folks, just taking my first look in this section, I found it by searching for CHOP-RITE because I have this #10 from the 1950s

    It belonged to my late parents; I remember trying to turn that crank when I was 6 years old. They gave it to me when they got the Kitchen-Aid and now I have that, too, if I'm feeling lazy.

    It always had only the "hamburger" plate until I ventured to an Amish hardware and got coarser and finer plates, also a new blade

    I suspect it needs a new auger - look how that center pin is off-center, and that's a new plate. Either that pin has worn in half a century, or the plate was not made to the spec for that auger.
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2014

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