First build. Reverse flow. Rookies go big or go home......

[gratefuledbbq]

We've done enough talking and dreaming about it over the years and figured enough talk. We lucked up and found a 30" dia. x 90" long tank ($50), a 16 x 38 smaller tank (old commercial air compressor, $0) for the firebox, and a ten foot trailer ($0) to stick it on. I've done the calculations, we've laid it out and ready to start cutting tomorrow. I'll take some pics along the way. The reverse flow smoker should take up all of one half of the trailer. So on the other side, we're planning on modifying and installing a Pheonix Gas Grill (freebie), two turkey fryer burners(both freebies), a double bowl sink, small prep area and fold down tables on each side for prep. A storage bin, fire wood bin and paper towell holder is also being planned. The tank we found for the cooking chamber had a 2" plug in each end in which we would like to be able to install a rotisserie (gear reduction motor, $0) if we decide to ever do a whole hog (or two) as well.

Now some quick questions before we screw up.......

Is there any reason we shouldn't make the firebox air inlet holes, the firebox to cooking chamber hole and the stack length, bigger than what the calculator called for, so we can use dampers to choke it down if need be?

Is there any reason we can't make the reverse flow / convection plate removeable? This would be incase we decide to rotisserie a larger hog.

Also, is there any particular height the RF plate needs to be? (besides higher than the opening to the firebox)

Any advice would be much appreciated. Pics to come soon........

 

[tom37]

The calc gives the minimum specs if I remember right.

Sure the RF plate could be built to come out.

     Maybe build it in two sections with a lip all the way around and also maybe think about having the drain fit thru a sleeve. That way the drain pipe would not be in the way of the animal. I would make them so that they could bolt together so they will fit out the door.

I think as long as its higher then the fire opening it will work fine.

With the RF plates out and a whole animal in there, either his head or his tail is going to be pretty warm compared to the other end.

Oh if you cook with the plates out you will have to make provision for another stack at the opposite end of the fire for good draw and heat transfer.

Simple enough to just have two stacks with screw on  caps.

Good luck and pls share pics when you get going on it.

 

[gratefuledbbq]

Thanks Tom. Took your suggestions into consideration! Last night we really got to work. We found out what our tank used to be used for also. It was an old train engine air tank. Big plus since no gas, diesel, or anything else bad was ever in it. Very clean when we got it open. Got the hinges on, the doors cut out, the firebox cut, somewhat of a inlet to the cooking chamber cut, stacks and holes cut and even had time to have a beer (or so). Thanks to Tom, we decided to put two stacks on it. Ended up making them 40" each (since we had 80" to work with). We figured we can always make them shorter, and I've yet to find a pipe stretcher after years of searching. We're going to cap one stack off for reverse flow smoking. Also have decided we are going to install some 3/4 black steel pipe gas burners for the rotisserie. Shouldn't bother the operation of the smoker when not in use if we do it right. We also came across another smaller air compressor tank that we are going to put on top of the firebox for a warmer. Which brings me to today's question.....

Would there be anything special we would need to do for the warmer? We figured the heat off of the firebox would do the trick, but we didn't put much more thought into any other concerns. Can anyone think of any?

I'll try to get the pics up tonight, if I can get the kids to sleep at a reasonable time. Next work night should be Friday......

Any help is appreciated!

 

[otter]

Keep us posted and with Pics Please

 

[tom37]

Thats awesome man, its a great feeling when you get alot of stuff done. Glad to hear it was so clean when you got it open. For the warmer, you may think about  using some light weight plate and box an area between the fire box and the warmer. It would give you more surface area to transfer heat.

 

[raptor700]

 
Would there be anything special we would need to do for the warmer? We figured the heat off of the firebox would do the trick, but we didn't put much more thought into any other concerns. Can anyone think of any?  

 The residual heat from the box itself may not be enough! Similar to the stack length, You can always take away but it's very hard to add! I would have a damper directly to the warmer from the cook chamber! Then you could regulate the heat into the warmer. JMOP, Good Luck and bring on the PICS!

 

[gratefuledbbq]

Here's a few pics yall.  We worked on it again last night. I passed my 5 min welding course and according to my instructor, I passed at the top of the class! Like second nature now! Unfortunatly I forgot my camera, so I'll post the ones from the other night. We now have the Firebox and tank fitting together nicely, and all the hinges on and working great. All the tans are being sent off for glass blasting early this week and then we'll weld the two tanks together, get a first coat of paint on, then work on the RF plate, fire grate, and all the tedious things to do. I'm not great at getting to a computer in a timely fashion as you can tell, but I'll def keep everyone posted on progress...... Thanks for all the advice and help everyone.

 

[gratefuledbbq]

Posted some pics..... said it had to be reviewed by a moderator.......Hopefully work on it again tomorrow or tues. Should be sand blasted by then. I'll get some more up after that. Thanks yall.

 

[raptor700]

Lookin good man, That thing will be throwing out some great Qveiw's before you know it!!

 

[fourashleys]

lookin' good keep the pics coming

 

[tom37]

Looks great!!!  Thanks for taking the time to share the build and pics with us.

 

[bamaboy]

COOL Man,thanks