Did a bad thing.... MES 30 overheated, SERIOUSLY. What to do??

[Rings Я Us]

Good question, I have no answer. The only issue I could imagine with that is is that the flame/coals are simply hogging all the oxygen. Maybe someone will have some good input.

Electric smoker..

 

[Rings Я Us]

Like an air pipe right where the AMNPS sits or just under it.. you could adjust flow.
This is a 40 but could work for the 30s.

 

[tallbm]

Oh I misunderstood lol.
My best guess is that people simply move to a mailbox mod if the AMNPS doesn't work inside.

What sold me on the mailbox mod + AMNPS was being able to cold smoke with no heat on in the MES.

Here in TX I have to really manage not adding heat into the MES for cold smokes. It's Dec 1 today and it's 67F and sunny right now. I would never be able to cold smoke and keep from exceeding 65F today unless I do it overnight. Even then the low is 57F... so you see my issues.

The mailbox mod eliminates or minimizes the extra heat issue.
I also just plan and wait in Jan to do any cold smoking. About 10-20 pounds of Salmon Lox is in my very near future :D

 

[dward51]

As to a DIY PID I would go with an Auber Instruments "all in one box" pre-made unit. You would basically run a power cord (3 prong, ground and the 2 wires to the heating element) out the back of the smoker with a standard 3 prong plug on the end. That plugs into the Auber "all in one box" and it handles everything from there. About $140

This is the one I use with my MES 30 that I modded to make the MES Custom SS. The "input" is the power to the PID from the wall outlet (it's the same cord that most desktop PC's use), and the "output" is where you would plug in the 3 prong cord that you will mod to the heating element. Then run the sensor into the MES body to read the pit temp and you are up and running.

 

[Rings Я Us]

As to a DIY PID I would go with an Auber Instruments "all in one box" pre-made unit. You would basically run a power cord (3 prong, ground and the 2 wires to the heating element) out the back of the smoker with a standard 3 prong plug on the end. That plugs into the Auber "all in one box" and it handles everything from there. About $140

This is the one I use with my MES 30 that I modded to make the MES Custom SS. The "input" is the power to the PID from the wall outlet (it's the same cord that most desktop PC's use), and the "output" is where you would plug in the 3 prong cord that you will mod to the heating element. Then run the sensor into the MES body to read the pit temp and you are up and running.

So would that work with my mes bullet that has this analog dial? Just keep it at wide open and the PID would do all the on and off?

 

[dward51]

Yes it would.

That Auber "all in one box" can be a multi-tasker and work with pretty much any electric unit. I bought mine when I made a drop in electric conversion for my WSM (mounted the element in an extra door so I could swap between charcoal and electric). Now I'm using it with the modded MES Custom SS.

Basically you turn the heat dial on the MES element to wide open, and plug it into the PID box. The PID takes over and will switch the unit one when needed. Once it's at temp, it pulses infrequently to hold temp very accurately.

 

[Rings Я Us]

Yes it would.

That Auber "all in one box" can be a multi-tasker and work with pretty much any electric unit. I bought mine when I made a drop in electric conversion for my WSM (mounted the element in an extra door so I could swap between charcoal and electric). Now I'm using it with the modded MES Custom SS.

Basically you turn the heat dial on the MES element to wide open, and plug it into the PID box. The PID takes over and will switch the unit one when needed. Once it's at temp, it pulses infrequently to hold temp very accurately.

That would make my new $29.00 smoker like a loaded Mini Cooper . Lol neat..:cool:

 

[dr k]

Like an air pipe right where the AMNPS sits or just under it.. you could adjust flow.
This is a 40 but could work for the 30s.
View attachment 346203

The center rear bottom drip pan grease hole has enough air coming into the smoker that you can't light or keep a lighter lit at the hole from outside the smoker. Screw or RTV a 90* elbow fitting into the pan hole pointed towards the AMNPS on the rails may work as the air goes towards the AMNPS and rises. I've never had enough juice in the bottom of the smoker to use the grease drain so it's an air inlet that I plugged from the outside with a cork to keep all air coming into the smoker through the mailbox mod.
-Kurt

 

[Rings Я Us]

The center rear bottom drip pan grease hole has enough air coming into the smoker that you can't light or keep a lighter lit at the hole from outside the smoker. Screw or RTV a 90* elbow fitting into the pan hole pointed towards the AMNPS on the rails may work as the air goes towards the AMNPS and rises. I've never had enough juice in the bottom of the smoker to use the grease drain so it's an air inlet that I plugged from the outside with a cork to keep all air coming into the smoker through the mailbox mod.
-Kurt

Well the MES 30 models with no drain hole or rails is kind of what I was referring to.
The 40s don't have as much problem do they?

 

[dr k]

As to a DIY PID I would go with an Auber Instruments "all in one box" pre-made unit. You would basically run a power cord (3 prong, ground and the 2 wires to the heating element) out the back of the smoker with a standard 3 prong plug on the end. That plugs into the Auber "all in one box" and it handles everything from there. About $140

This is the one I use with my MES 30 that I modded to make the MES Custom SS. The "input" is the power to the PID from the wall outlet (it's the same cord that most desktop PC's use), and the "output" is where you would plug in the 3 prong cord that you will mod to the heating element. Then run the sensor into the MES body to read the pit temp and you are up and running.

I keep tossing about building a PID but I like the plug and play size for all the components needed. tallbm's digital Mes bypass with four cuts and two splices in the bottom access to terminate the power cord to the high temp leads going to the heating element seems like a half hour job with keeping the factory ground intact. Then plug into Auber.
-Kurt

 

[uncle eddie]

The magic number is (800) 489-1581

This is a toll free direct emergency hotline to Masterbuilt. Be sure you have your S/N and Md. No. off the plate on the back of the unit when you call. They are excellent at trouble shooting and free parts for newly purchased warrantied units.

Give 'en a try I am sure you'll be happy with the results and the timely fashion in which you get it smoking again.

^^^This^^^

I have had great luck with customer service

 

[tallbm]

I keep tossing about building a PID but I like the plug and play size for all the components needed. tallbm's digital Mes bypass with four cuts and two splices in the bottom access to terminate the power cord to the high temp leads going to the heating element seems like a half hour job with keeping the factory ground intact. Then plug into Auber.
-Kurt

I will be one to always recommend the Auber Plug and Play over building/assembling one.
SIMPLY because of the issues around making a box to contain all the PID components and wiring and such.
You gotta make sure it is waterproof, can ground properly, can have components secured to it, can house all components well, can still have enough airflow to prevent overheating, can ensure electrical components don't touch to short out the box, etc. etc. etc.
Also the tools needed to cut squares and holes into a metal box or some other type of box is not a trivial aspect to ignore.

The Auber Plug and Play has all of that gracefully covered along with safety components like a fuse (that you can easily get to), on/off switch, etc.

The rewire of the MES is no big issue. Biggest problem you MAY run into (gen 1's) is that you cannot get to the safety Rollout limit switch unless you take off the back OR you cut a hole out and make a panel to access the switch (I highly recommend this).

Here's a simple guide I put together to rewire an MES without needing to remove the back panel, all so the MES is ready to rock and roll with a PID controller :)
http://smokingmeatforums.com/index....e-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/

Best of luck! :)