Chargriller Smokin Pro Reverse Flow Mods.

Discussion in 'Charcoal Smokers' started by upinflames, Jun 4, 2008.

  1. upinflames

    upinflames Fire Starter

    Seems pretty simple to do but was wondering if anyone here has done it and what the results were.

    I read the thread about the various mods to enhance the CGSPs performance but have not seen much in the way of reverse flow mods.

    Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

    Thanx in advance, UpInFlames
     
  2. richtee

    richtee Smoking Guru OTBS Member

    Hmmm ain't the stack at the wrong end for a R.F.? I guess that would be a start. Tuning plates/baffles do not a reverse flow make. The reverse is sealed along the bottom, and smoke must traverse the length of the smoker before seeing the food. Heat IS radiated by the reversing plate, but not like tuning plates...which are designed with gaps/holes in them.
     
  3. bbq bubba

    bbq bubba Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    Good luck with that.....[​IMG]
     
  4. bhille42

    bhille42 Meat Mopper

    I own a SnP also and have done some experimenting trying to make it into a reverse flow. I just used a baffle and a bunch of tuning plates butted up to each other. My problem with it is not getting enough heat to travel all the way to one end and back to the other. It just didn't draw very well. I have not sealed it up yet with the fireplace gasket, so that might be a factor. Also, the firebox would either require some modification to allow more air in or just leave the ash pan pulled out. I will hopefully be getting that mod done pretty soon and will post to let everyone know how it works out.
     
  5. bhille42

    bhille42 Meat Mopper

    Forgot to mention that I moved the flex vent to the other end of the smoker, so I wouldn't have to cut a big hole on the other end. The bend of the vent may also have been a factor not allowing for easy exhaust.
     
  6. richtee

    richtee Smoking Guru OTBS Member

    Bend and length. Folks don't realize how much it affects flow. Especially when heat is involved. Airflow "slows" as heat dissapates from the air mass. The air/smoke, for all practical purposes, becomes "thicker".
     
  7. upinflames

    upinflames Fire Starter

    Correct, but I don't mind moving it. Might extend the stack as well to within 3-5 inches of the grates as well.

    Thinking about flipping the charcoal basket upside down as well as raising it up a bit so as not to restrict the airflow.
     
  8. ddave

    ddave Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

  9. bbq addict

    bbq addict Smoke Blower

    So if I understand this correctly, you'd almost have to convert this over to propane to get a strong enough heat flow?
     
  10. ddave

    ddave Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    You wouldn't have to convert to propane, just make sure the stack is on the correct (firebox) side for a reverse flow (and, of course, have the reversing plate).

    Using flexible duct from a stack at the far end of the firebox to the firebox side will result in less draft than if the stack was actually at the firebox end.

    Dave
     
  11. coyote-1

    coyote-1 Smoking Fanatic

    So you could essentially:
    a) use the existing smokebox charcoal pan, flipped, as the reversing plate, butted up against the firebox side, with an adjustable bracket to bolt it tight against the opening
    b) move the stack to the other side, next to the firebox

    That would accomplish roughly the same thing you see in the CharBroil mod link. You could further:
    c) build a flat-top rack of steel strips, it would be supported by the charcoal pan
    d) rest water/drip pans atop that rack

    That would stabilize temps and provide moisture. If you clean the inside of the top frequently and put in clean drip pans for each session, you could even use the drip as your mop liquid! Use only 3 of the 4 cast-iron grates, leaving a small gap between each. Dip your mop down between the grates into the drip pan, and then use it to mop the top of the meat.

    The material purchases required are small. A 4x4" plate of sheet steel to cover the old stack hole, the steel strips for the rack, the 3" flex hose to bring the stack down to the grate, a pair of good thermometers, and of course the requisite pig to cover the old temp gauge hole. Aside from cutting the new stack hole, the work involved is minimal and easy.

    Yeah, the plan's coming together. :D
     
  12. Hello,

        I have a smoking pro.  I turned it into a reverse flow by flipping over the charcoal pan and mounting it tight to the firebox opening.  I moved the standard smoke stack to the side with the firebox.  I also added rails & grates inside the smoking chamber to put drip/water pans.  I also added a brace in center of the smoker to keep the sides from bowing.  The reverse flow works well.  The flow side (opposite the fire box) runs about 30 degrees warmer than the firebox side.  Though, I am having draw problems on the smoker. I can keep the smoker at 320, and it likes to sit at ~250.  Below 250, it becomes hard to maintain the chamber temperature.   I have not tried to seal the smoking chamber, yet; that is this springs work.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  Also in general, the smoking pro does not do well in wind; reverse flow makes this more pronounced.

    Thanks,

    Jake
     
  13. If you plan to turn your char griller into a RF smoker. You may want to take a look at the numbers used to make a RF smoker. A friend ran his Char Griller Outlaw through these numbers and found it was way off for what was needed.

    http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html

    The key to a good RF smoker is air flow for the fire and air flow through the cook chamber. The smoke stack needs to be extended on the outside of the smoker to help creat a proper draw of the smoke. The OD is 3" and you can get a pice of tail pipe extender with a slip end from an auto parts store. Cut the existing stack with about 3" above the chamber and slide the extender over it. Use a self taping screw to hold in place. Paint and you are good to go. The damper should be wide open anyways so no need to replace. If you want it you can cut a 1/4" bolt and either tack weld it in place or use some JB Weld. He also crafted a charcoal basket to raise the fire out of the ash and that alone made a huge difference in fuel usage and temps.
     
  14. i have done all the mods to my smoking pro and did a revers flow mod as well i have had no problems keeping temps around 225 to 250 it all depends on how much fuel i put in the charcoal basket.i just use vent tube to move smoke stake to other side and have had no problems with the draw of the smoker yet. i got 5 hour burn at 230 from 2 and a half chimney starters using the minion method.
     
  15. hillbillyrkstr

    hillbillyrkstr Master of the Pit Group Lead

    Philzilla you have any pics of your vent tube mod? Thanks.
     

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