Char-Griller Smokin Pro with firebox- Mods

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Here's some pics of the last mod i made and i cant believe the difference of sealing the air leaks around the lid makes.



this shows the spacing of the flat bar around the front and one of both sides. notice 1 nut between the flat stock and the smoker on the front and 2 were needed on the sides (see next picture). I had a tighter fit along the front and more wiggle room was needed on the sides for the lid to close.



this one shows tucking the fiberglass rope into the space between the smoker and flat stock.

Along the back of the lid I just bolted (with washers)the rope to the bottom of the smoke box. the flat stock would not allow the lid to close. I'm thinking i should have attached the rope to the lid instead. (more experimenting)
 
you could buy it from Lowes I got mine from Home Depot.Instead of cutting each side piece and the front piece I heated the flat stock with a propane torch then hammered it on my anvil to bend, since I don't have a bending brake. I bought a 6' piece of 1"X 1/8". The side pieces go just in front of the hinge pins. The only place around here that carries the stove gasket rope year round is Ace Hardware. My home depot, osh and lowes all dont have it in stock regularly at this time of year.
 
Well, I went to both Home Depot and Lowes tongiht to try to buy the supplies to "gasket" my smoker. The only thing I could find was the 3/4" angle.I asked a couple of the employee's if they hane any fiberglass rope or stove gasket and they both called their managers since they had no idea what I was talking about. Looks like I am going to have to find what I need on-line. Regardless, I am refusing to fire up my smoker until I get it sealed. After reading some of these threads I now know why my brisket is not coming out the way it should. I just can't keep a consistent burn without going out every 15-30 minutes making sure my charcoal and wood is not burned out.
I do have a question regarding the adhesive need to cement the rope to the angle. What is it exactly that I need to get? I saw "fire caulk" at both places but not a specific high heat adhesive. There were plenty of adhesives available but not ant that specified a high heat application. Is the caulk to be considered the same as adhesive? I also plan on using aluminum angle rather than steel. It's much lighter and cheaper and since it will not get direct heat it should hold up just fine. Do I need a specific adhesive for this to work for me?

I still am not clear on how to seal the back cover of the grill so if anyone can spell it out for me in simple terms I would appreciate it. I am not a real handy person (as my wife would attest) but I can cook my *** off. Now I need to learn to smoke it off as well.

Thanks!!
 
I got mine from Ace Hardware. The only place around here that carries the stove gasket rope year round is Ace Hardware. I just bolted the gasket to the lid with washers, bolt heads inside and nuts out. As for cement or any adhesive the stove cement I used the first time got hard and broke right off my brand new unseasoned smoker. this time the flat stock and bolts hold the gasket in place by pressure.
 
Then it's off to the local ACE and Walmart to see if I can get what I need. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you all know how it works out.
 
Finally rounded up all my "supplies" to seal up the smoker. I had to order the rope gasket from the local ACE hardware store and they got it for me quickly. Anyway, I spent the morning putting the rails on and then getting the gasket glued on. I did go with aluminum 3/4" angle rather than steel. It was easy for me to cut it with tin snips since I don't have the tools that I would have needed to cut the steel. The aluminum was also cheaper and much lighter than the steel. For me it made working with the angle much easier. Heat should not be a problem since the rails are on the outside of the smoker. The smoker also will not be getting to very high temps. All in all it sealed up very nicely and that RTV gasket maker holds that rope down like it was bolted on. I ended up sealing the back by using screws, washers and nut's since the RTV would not stick well to the painted surface of the smoker. Still worked out great but I plan on removing the screws from the back and using rivets instead. The screws I used were just a little too long and the grill grates are resting on a couple of them. Not a big deal but just big enough to bother me. I am going to wait another day or so before I fire it up. I want that RTV to really set up (although after a couple of hours it was holding down that rope gasket really well). I can already tell my major draft problems are going to be over.
My thanks to all of you for the great ideas.
 
I cut my sheetmetal baffle and affixed to to the firebox outlet.



Using the grills from the firebox to support this plate I picked up at Menardo's



and a grill wok that I got 25% off cuz it was a little mushed....

I had the flue pipe laying around so I cut and installed that earlier.



I also picked up some gasket rope and high temp RTV sealant to try & seal the unit better.

If all goes well with my trail run I think I'll do some ribs, beans & corn tomorrow.
 
go to wal-mart in the automotive section and get high temp gasket sealer. i had the same problem with mine breaking off. twice actually. got the gasket sealer (it's orange) and i haven't had a problem since. also home depot and lowe's only carrey fire rope during winter months so if you have a local hardware store anywhere they should have it
 
You can also order the rope gasket through ACE hardware. They got mine in 2 days with no additional charge for shipping. I also got the RTV at the same place. The gasket I bought was called "Grapho-Glas" the 1/2" - 5/8" thickness is perfect if you are sealing the grill using the 3/4" angle rails.
 
I'm smoking some brisket and ribs as I write this. I have a question regarding the temp of the smoker. I have no problem reaching a temp of 200 in the smoke chamber. The problem is that I can barely get it above the 200 mark. I am using lump charcoal with oak and hickory chunks for additional flavor. I am losing very little heat/smoke after I sealed the smoker so that does not appear to be the issue. Do I need more aire flow? I have the vent wide open and a ton of coals in the firebox.
Thanks
 
If you're going by the thermometer that came with your smoker you are no doubt way off. My thermometer in the lid is 75 to 125 degrees off. I bought a oven thermometer from ACE in their little kitchen section for $6.00 and change and placed the oven thermometer inside the smoke chamber, next to the meat. I have no problems what soever with the modifications I have made to get my smoker to temp (225) and keep it there. I was told by everyone who has helped me with modifications not to trust the factory thermometer in the smoker. Do you notice how high that thermometer is mounted? The temperature I am concerned with is at the cooking grate level where the meat is.
 
I am not going by thhe factory thermometer. I installed one at just about grate level plus I have an oven thermometer sitting on the grate inside the smoker. All in all the meat I did yesterday came out very well. Ribs are falling off the bone tender and the brisket could probably used another 30-60 minutes but is still pretty tender. Most of the cooking was at 200 degrees.
 
I spent a considerable amount of time looking through this thread for mods for the Chargriller. First off, thanks to everyone for all the good info.

I have done 2 mods so far. Baffle/tuning plates and the dryer vent tube on the chimney.

The first is in the smokebox. As you will see, these mods are very similar to the tuning plate and baffle mod done by mossymo. I attached perforated angle steel to the front and rear of the drum, about 3" of so from the top.

I found some 6"x18" 22 gauge sheet steel at Home Depot, and picked up 3 of those. These act as the baffle at the opening to the fire box and as tuning plates. The angle steel just happened to attach in the drum at a point that was 18" or so across, so the sheet steel lays in perfectly, and I can slide them as needed.

The final mod was to attach a 3" flexible dryer vent tube (courtesy caiguar) to the chimney and run it to the front of the top, stopping just above the opening. As caiguar did, I just clamped the tube to the chimney. On the other end, however, I did drill a small hole and attached the tube to the front of the top with a small nut and bolt.

Everything seemed to work out much better with the mods than without. I got higher, consistent heat with them, and an overall much better experience.

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My big brother growin up as a smoker! kinda brings a tear to the eye
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Lets see them tuning plates dirty!
 
Glad I found this forum. Just bought the dryer vent hose to start the mods to my Char Grill. Thanks so much for the advice. Already bought a oven thermometer to get away from factory gauge.
 
Just bought a Smokin Pro w/ side box. Been reading about the mods. Have installed the dryer tubing to the smoke stack & am seasoning it rite now. The thing I notice most is the smoke leakeage around the drum lid.As I'm seasoning it I am also trying to figure out how to keep the temp. at 225, I know that the temp gage that came with the unit is not even close, I will look around for a couple of accurate gages. I'm wondering if the charcoal carrier that is in the main drum can be used as a tuning plate. Any help will be appreciated.

Dick
 
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