Char-Griller Smokin Pro with firebox- Mods

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As nice as that plate fits you might even be able to use that first plate as a baffle if you cut it at least 10" to 12" wide.

I'd make the cuts about thirds leaving about an inch gap and try it then make a second cut if you need too.
 
I usually put my thermometer about a third of the way from the left side, opposite the fire box, and try to use the first three grates from the left to cook. I'll have it lit Friday and check the temp by the fire box.
 
I like all the mods but I do use mine for a grill from time to time & it would be a pain to remove all the mods to grill. The only thing I do & have good luck with is to use the original Charcoal Pan with aluminum water pans as a baffle/tuning plate.
 
johnd49455
I have went bare naked with no adjustments and also placed water pans with better success. I am assuming it is either my water pan placement or missing a plate over the firebox opening that has led me to trying this.

Then there is the baffle/tuning plate talk and I am trying to perfect for the 1st smoke after the changes. That probably will not happen and I will have to adjust some mod's; but I am attempting to save some meat from torture and myself a little anxiety until I have it down.

Here in ND I will probably not use this charcoal smoker much till next spring as I am use to vertical proane and also vertical electric smokers. But I do want this ready to use next year and our winters are coming soon.
 
Don't give up marty............

like what has been said here........you get to eat your mistakes............

whatever comfort THAT gives...........heheh


d8de
 
check this out mossy- just triple fold foil & experiment w/the baffle like i do. here's pics.
http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...pitmods005.jpg
thats after i kept bending it up some to see how much heat i could let in- i started off w/ a 2-3" opening & realized i'm burning fuel by not letting heat to the pit via the baffle. so i go w/ the 1/3 of the pit tuning plate & the water pan. - mind you, it's still not perfect . but i know what i have now as i use it & cook accordingly. i cn get 300 on the hot end. 200 on the stack end, 225-250 in the mid & 230-250 on the upper racks.
 
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Gypsy, thank you. It may help eliminate some of future mistakes for me. Your post and pic is very much more than appreciated.

You do go out of your way to inform members, and that is the coolest thing about this site !!!
 
Well, here is where I am at with the tuning plates. As you can see I can not cut straight !!! I blame this on having to take off my glasses to wear safety glasses when cutting.....

First I angled a peice of steel over the firebox opening -



Then I cut 3 - 8" X 16 1/2" peices of steel butting the first peice up to the angled steel over the firebox. and then placed my water pans over the point where the steel peices are butted together.




I am now going to load it with charcoal and take it for a dry test run and see how the temps hold with the fire box changes and how even the heat is from side to side of the smoking chamber. I have a feeling this is all going ot work well so I am also thinking about thawing some ribs for a live test run !!!!
 
looking good mossy..............

i know i am getting a stick burner for christmas.......so i am enjoying these informative talks.........


d8de
 
Just wanted to share a couple pics of the fire basket I built for my Smokin' Pro after the first cook left the grate just like you guys described. I used an in stock (at my local Home Depot) Char Broil heavy duty fire grate for the bottom and ends. Heated it with a torch and bent it to form the ends which ended up around 5" high. I then welded 1-1/2" angle iron to the sides of the bottom. I used the same angle iron to make the corners and welded expanded metal for the sides. I suspend it from the cooking grate rails in the side fire box.

This set-up allows for far better airflow underneath the coals and the ashes don't build up to the bottom and choke my fire after a couple hours like the factory grate did. Pics are: one of the box built but not used... and a shot after a full bag of Original Charcoal Company lump and a few sticks of hickory were fully burned to ash. The cook only lasted around 5 hours but I let it all burn up and shook it into the ash pan just to see how close it would come. There is still probably 2.5" of airspace between the top of the ashes and the bottom of my basket. Even if I cooked long enough and with enough fuel to build up enough ash to choke the fire I can now remove the ash drawer to dump it without disturbing the fire, except for a few seconds of too much airflow with the drawer removed. I love this set-up.

I also extended the top vent pipe down almost to the cooking grate using a piece of 3" vent duct pipe cut to length and secured with a single sheet metal screw. A pic of it as well...
8959107d_vbattach15502.jpg

0d945289_vbattach15501.jpg

09d370c1_vbattach15500.jpg
 
Ok, I checked the factory lid mounted thermo against my Pyrex Professional digital and my turkey fryer dial thermo on this evening's smoke and found that the factory thermo is a bigger piece of crap than I ever would have imagined. I took pics of each thermo, shot within seconds of each other so the temp was steady. The digital and the dial were close to the same the whole cook.

The lid mount was off maybe 100* at +/- 230 and was worse as the temp spiked up to 250 a couple times. I wish Char Griller hadn't even cut the hole for this piece of junk. I'm looking for two good thru-the-lid thermos and will get an ET-73 soon. Gonna try to seal the factory thermo hole up.
The pics say it all...







Explains why the butts I've smoked have cooked too fast and didn't pull at all. I've been basically indirectly grilling/roasting them at probably close to 400* by keeping the factory thermo at 225-230*.

DO NOT TRUST THE LID MOUNT THERMO ON THESE THINGS!!!
 
I feel your pain bro... but sealing the hole is not too bad. I bought a stamped steel piggy from http://www.cookersandgrills.com/our_products.html (scroll to bottom of page). It has a mounting stud welded to the back of it... all I did to seal the hole was cut a square piece of sheet metal large enough to cover the factory hole, drill a hole in the center of the sheet metal for the stud to go through, and bend the metal to the contour of the lid. The sheet metal of course, mounts on the inside of the lid.

Here it is raw from the factory:

steel_pig.jpg


Here it is installed and painted...

piggy.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. Will have to look into something like that.

Oh, and I meant to add a pic showing my foil baffle I made for this last smoke. Worked great and all but eliminated the hot end next to the fire box. Worked far better than I would have imagined.
 
Mossy-there is a lot of good info and tips shared here and the pictures speak volumes on their own. I'm still looking to get the char-griller Smokin'Pro and plan on incorporating a lot of these mods. I like the idea of the tuning plates to even out the chamber temps.

I'm elevating this thread to *Sticky* status so that it will be with the other modification thread.
 
I agree Dutch, the info I have received off this thread has been very beneficial to me and I am sure many others.

With my last post of how I placed the tuning plates in our Charbroil, my temps varied from one side to the other side from 5º to 30º difference. I personally was quite happy with that.
 
Ok, I found some Char-Broil temperature gauges at Home Depot that mount through the lid in 3/8" holes (which I will have to drill in my lid). They were $7 and change each. Got two. Gonna mount them on either side of the chamber handle about 1/3 of the way from each end toward the middle. Hope they are accurate. Here's what I found if anyone else is looking for some...

Char-Broil Model 4838 "Universal Fit" Temperature Gauge (should be available at www.charbroil.com if you can't find them at your local Home Depot)

I'll report my results as soon as I have time to smoke something or do a test fire.

Here are a few pics of what I got...
 
Chris, I have the same guages and this is how I mounted them. 1 at each side at grate level. They seem to be no more than 5 degrees off. So pretty accurate. Here is the pic.


I am now able to see the temp differnce in both sides. The big guage is one I just happened to come across and used it to fill the factory hole since my SS didn't come with a guage.
 
If you have to drill new holes, try to get them as close to the level of your cooking grate as possible.

I had the same problem with the temp guage on my charbroil silver. I bought a 16 dollar dial gauge somewhat similar to the one you pictured, but not exactly. My charbroil came with a 3/4 inch hole already in the door, but 2/3 of the way up to the top of the smoker. I didn't have very much sucess either with my first few smokes. I actually had the reverse problem. The dial read 225-250, while the temp at grill level was way less. Butts came out dry and tuff, and almost black from the lengthy cooking time. I bought a cheap "puck style" thermometer at Miejers for about 5-6 bucks. I guess its a baking therm, I just sit it on the cooking grate right next to or in between my meats. I was suprised at the difference of temp. When the gauge on the door said 250, the actual temp at the grate was more like 150-175.

After utilizing this cheap alturnative to the digital remote models, I quickly learned that if I kept my door gauge at about 300, the cooking surface temp was 225-250.

That was a few smokes ago, before I came here. I had read about the firebox baffle, and had some of the same problems with the ribs or butt closest to the fire was getting done too soon, and well done( almost black). Just moved the meat farther away and suffered through it then. But then my smoker could really only hold about 2/3 s of its capacity.

Last week, I took one of the crappy old baking sheets from my cupboards and cut off a 4" wide piece, leaving the lil handle and bent up edge that comes on it to keep it ridgid. I sheet metal screwed it to the small 1" flang that is bent on my firebox at the top of the hole leading into the cooking chamber.

What a difference it made. No more scorched butts, and the temp stayed alot more stable for a charcoal grill.

I hope to purchase one of the fancy type remote therms that some folks are using, but we'll see when that happens. For now I am very very pleased in my last couple of smokes.

Thise site ROCKS!
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