Bayou Classic Regulator mod - need some help

[dap9]

8F4DF290-E644-4065-B375-B480AB983948.jpg

• dap9
• Aug 24, 2017

IMG_6543.JPG

• dap9
• Aug 24, 2017

Hi guys, Kind of a double post as I just mentioned this in another thread I started so sorry about that. Anyway, I'm in the process of installing a Bayou Classic regulator with a needle valve to my Masterbuilt Dual Fuel. It comes with a replacement brass orifice that has a smaller hole than the stock one. However, the threads are a tad longer. Do I want the newer orifice installed? Or keep the original one with the bigger hole?

Last question? When removing the orifice, it seems like there's some kind of thread seal/tape like Loc-Tite. Anyone know what that would be? Thanks

 

[daveomak]

You want the smaller orifice....  That will reduce the heat in your smoker......  The sealant is probably a Teflon paste...

 

[dap9]

You want the smaller orifice....  That will reduce the heat in your smoker......  The sealant is probably a Teflon paste...

Thanks!

 

[dap9]

 
You want the smaller orifice....  That will reduce the heat in your smoker......  The sealant is probably a Teflon paste...

​As a follow up...  The smaller orifice stripped my valve.  Either because it was longer than the stock orifice, or it's just a tad wider.  I'm pretty sure it's the latter if I read my caliper tool right.  It's not digital, but I'm pretty sure there's a hair's difference.  Ugh.  Now to find a new valve.

 

[daveomak]

There is VERY little pressure on the orifice....   If you can clean up what thread remain, as a first or last resort, whichever you call it, you can install the orifice and use JB weld as a filler....   Put the JB weld on the male thread and then screw on the female thread...   Doing it that way, you will not force JB weld into the orifice body....  If you coat the female threads with Vaseline, it might even unscrew, and new threads will be made on the male threads....    Be sure to check for gas leaks

High temp silicone is also an alternative to seal up the buggered threads, since it is such low pressure...

Gasolia is another great product...  I have used it as a top coat to seat leaks in gas cans....   Still sealing up the leak after 20 years...   It dries to a "almost" hard paste....

 

[dap9]

Thanks again. Now I'm not sure if I did strip the valve. I definitely widened it. Before, I could only screw the orifice in by hand barely two turns. Now I can scre both of them in by hand no problem. Will your recommendations fix that? I ordered a new valve, but it's on back order so hopefully it gets here sooner than later. In the meantime, I'll try whatever. Thanks again!

 

[daveomak]

The end that looks like an acorn, is a pressure fit...  tighten it  by hand and then 1/4 turn, so the faces mate, and that should be it....   

The straight thread ends...   They should be a "seat fit" also, as they don't look tapered, like a pipe thread...   

Put it together and test it...  use soapy water to check for leaks...   If after tightening, there appear to be leaks, use some sort of sealer....   The part you are assembling is in the burn chamber anyway...   Leaks aren't good...

 

[dap9]

The end that looks like an acorn, is a pressure fit...  tighten it  by hand and then 1/4 turn, so the faces mate, and that should be it....   
The straight thread ends...   They should be a "seat fit" also, as they don't look tapered, like a pipe thread...   
Put it together and test it...  use soapy water to check for leaks...   If after tightening, there appear to be leaks, use some sort of sealer....   The part you are assembling is in the burn chamber anyway...   Leaks aren't good...

When I screwed in the new orifice, it never hit a stopping point and just kept turning. I did the soapy water test and got bubbles so there's definitely a leak now. It's hard to tell, but the new orifice may have a slight taper. I have some JB Weld so I may as well give that a shot.

 

[daveomak]

Before you JB weld the orifice cap, if you can, try cutting some off of it's length...  that will allow it to seat...   the cap female thread look like they are longer than the male threads....  Also, was there a "gasket" of sorts that went inside the orifice cap ??