All Purpose Temp COntrller

[starrider63]

 Hi, I am having trouble with wiring a PID Temp Contrlooer to operate 2 120 volt Heating Elements. I know I need 2 SSR's and 2 seperate Contacts for each element but, do I need a second controller? Why can't I send a signal through the SSR's fron one controller to send a signal to the Contacts to turn on? And how would the wiring Diagram look from PID all the way through?

   P.S. I don't have a lot of hair left, can't afforsd to pull much more out. Thanks guys.

 

[noboundaries]

Starrider63, welcome to SMF!  Cool username BTW.  I can't help with your temp controller issues, but someone will be along on your other thread to help. 

Glad you're here!

Ray

 

[browneyesvictim]

It depends on the wattage of the elements you will be controlling if you need relays. There are controllers that will control 2 devices (heating elements) independantly, but can you give some details why you wish to control them independently on one controller?

These are pretty cheap, plus they have 10A contact relays built into them. Mount as many of them in a project box as you want, and Bobs your Uncle!

!

 

[starrider63]

Yea, that is what I hav enw on a small tank to operate ut 1 120 volt heating element. But, when I build my big tank, I guess I could use 120 volt but, 240 volt Elements will heat the water quicker. Keep in mind the water just need to be kept between 80 an 94 degrees F*. The question is how to wire it through the SSR for 2 heating elements 120, or 240 volt. I wan tto use solid contacts as well. I have never tried that before. But, I can go back and look at the way I have this type of contoller wired for the 1 Element. I am just addiong another Divice in the Circuit and tht is where I am getting confused. Will I need a controller for each Element or will the One Controller close 2 COntacts when the temp Controoler tels it to?

 

[starrider63]

 THe reason for controlling 2 with one controller is one, NOt having to buy another one and 2 both element need to work in tandom. I don't know if you know what Hydrographics is, Some people I talk to do, some don't. I am building a Dip Tank, adn the elements need to work in tandom with NO delay. Just on and off period. I haven't figutred out a way to manage the output of watts or volts to keep a element on just to keep the water at a certain Temp. They either have to be off or on.

 

[starrider63]

 Trust me, this can get confussing but, just think of a open top tank of water that yuo want to keep at 92 Degrees F* There is also a pump that pumps 3500 GPH that circulates the water through a filter systrem then a Check valve, then through a Spary bar back into the tank. The wai it is designed, it goes threough the FIltering system Before it gets to the Pump so it doesn't get clogged with leftover Hydrographic Film.

  If you do understand Hydrographics, breat. you might can help me a lot. If you don't just get on youtube an dlook up Hydrographics, there are hundreds ao fideo's. Everything from how to setup yout HVLP gun for different solutions and paint to the Dipping Process, what types of Clear coats to use for what use the item is going to be used for. For Example, a firearm can use a standard Clear coat, A motorcycle or Rims need a 2K Clear Coat which has a extra hardener because they will be in weather conditions and raod conditions and are more POlished and made for sanding and polishing. All these subjects are on youtube.

 

[browneyesvictim]

Starrider- There is more than one way t skin a cat. I do know what your hydrographics is and sounds fascinating! Anyway, Basically you just need to turn on two 240VAC heating elements that I will assume will draw more than 10Amps therefore the need for a relay that the controller will activate as needed. Your temperature of 92'F for heating water doesn't sound terribly unreasonable for even 120V, but I don't know your ambient temperatures, duty cycles, tank capacity etc... Thermal dynamics comes into play. However I have read your other post where you state your tank requires 2, 240 volt 5500 watt Heating Elements so lets stick with that.

What model is your other PID controller you have? Do you already also have the Inkbird controller? If so, which model?

You can put the two 5500 watt heaters in parallel attached and controlled by ONE relay, but the relay outputs will need to be rated for the COMBINED load. Therefore I may make more sense to use TWO relays - one for each heating element. The output signal of the controller can probably be split between the two relays.

 

[browneyesvictim]

Something else I might suggest is that you don't need a PID controller at all, given that you have a fairly wide temp range of 80 an 94 degrees F. You could get by with a simple temperature switch. Also have you given much thought to current overload protection? 5500 W is a lot of juice! This must be a pretty good size tank. Are you in the UK and this is why 220 is preferred?

 

[starrider63]

I have decided against a PID, I am using another Al PUropse Controller. THe Temp range isn't 80 to 94 it is 90 to 94 and it is a 350 gallon tank. , 240 volt elements will just cut down on the time it takes to ge the Temp to where I need it. And no I am not in the UK, I am in Southwest Va. These larger tanks just work better with 240 than 120 volts. The Pump is a 3500/GPH 120 volt pump but the heating elements work best at 220 that way whaen the water drops beloe the optimum Temp, it only take a minute or so to get it back to temp. I have tried 120 volt elements at 2000 watts and they are just too slow and actually cost more to run than the 240 volt ones.

 

[submariner]

Welcome and I hope you get your issues fixed. Lot's of people here with great answers!!