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Discussion in 'Reverse Flow' started by sttimmerma, Jan 18, 2015.
Nice size, You will like it
I decided to weld up the sides top and bottom, focusing on the keeping it square it's big enough to weld the angle iron inside the box.
Nice, looking good
OK...I have the 5 sides of the box welded up, I have been looking at different designs for the firebox door. I want to make it simple to clean out so I will make a rack with a tray that pulls out for the wood/charcoal. I was thinking of using 1"x1" square tubing on the inside of the firebox, weld to 3 or 4 sides inside so the door will sit against when closed. My concern with the steel tubing on the bottom it will make it more difficult to remove the ash after the burn. Thoughts from the group
Looks good so far. I just finished pretty much the same build you're working on. Here is a pic of mine.
Thanks storeman. I'll be short so I'm not hijacking the thread. My stacks are approx. 2 5/8" inside diameter and they are around 30" tall. My cook chamber is 60 gallons like the other one in this thread. That's why I posted a pic of mine so maybe he could get ideas. This was my second build. My first build was 120 gallons and I believe I used 4" pipe for that one. You should be okay with two 3" pipes. Just use Feldon's calculator to see how long yours should be. Just remember that two 3" pipes isn't the same as one 6" pipe. I figured how long my pipe needed be and divided it by two since I went with double stacks. Not saying that is the proper way but that's what I did.
Without input from others, I plan to do the same. Take the length of one 3" chimney and cut it in half for having two, maybe add a couple of inches.
Today I went down to my local steel supply yard.....Picked up some 2x2 steel tubing for the grill project First time in years I have seen this stamped on steel that I have bought from that yard!!!
My progress has slowed way down on the grill project, I thought by the time I was to the firebox damper a solution would have been developed. But no...I sat outside for about an hour just looking at the firebox and cooking chamber and how to connect the external linkage to open and close the damper for the firebox, take a look at the photos attached, any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
Looking better and better
I may be way off base on my planning, but my thinking was, if I had the damper between the firebox and the cooking chamber, I would be able to quickly cool down the cooking chamber with this damper. Not sure it's necessary, just seemed logical. I appreciate you sharing your thoughts.
If you need to do a quick cool down, shut off the air intakes and open the CC door. It is a much better and faster method to cool things down than fiddling with a damper and restricting the flow through the smoker.
Adjusting smoker flow, using a control between the FB and CC, overheats the FB and will consume much more fuel.... Air inlet to the FB control is more effective.... Installing the damper between the FB and CC will screw up the air flow in the smoker...
The calculator/tutorial is designed on a balanced smoker... the only controls needed are air inlets... AS LONG as the smoker is built air tight..
I agree with Dave, Stack wide open, NO damper between FB & CC Control Air, Heat and smoke with FB dampers, after a few smokes you will get the hang of it and it becomes easy
I will not be installing a damper between the Firebox and the cooking chamber. Thank you all for your input...
Dave and Len are right on. Be sure to make your firebox / cook chamber air tight. Shutting air intake on a tight system kills the fire pretty quick.
Wanted to see how they fit together....Man is that Firebox getting heavy
My cardboard cut out worked great as a template. The size was right on.
My fire box was patterned after Nick v, Thanks Nick for the inspiration.